Hoopers Beta | Footwork and Shoulders Will Make or Break Your Climbing | Anatomy of the Climb @HoopersBeta | Uploaded December 2020 | Updated October 2024, 16 minutes ago.
#anatomyoftheclimb #greatwhite #physicaltherapist
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
Welcome to Anatomy of the Climb, Episode 2! Today we're analyzing a climb in Joe's Valley, Utah, called "Great White." It's a fun and aesthetic chunk of rock easily accessible in Right Fork.
Follow Jenn and Bailey in Instagram!
Jenn: instagram.com/jenndbell
Bailey: instagram.com/iceeiceebailey
// Support the channel by shopping with these links (we're not sponsored by these companies) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Therabands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
Move 1: Internal rotation
First, right out of the gait, we see the internal rotation and loading of the left shoulder. Now, this is not a dangerous move for the shoulder because the hands and feet are so good, but this is a strenuous move on the shoulder. Have good external rotation strength of the infraspinatus and teres minor is important with this as you are really taking those muscles to the end range. Also having good scapular mechanics overhead helps really safeguard you against developing any should impingement.
My recommended training for moves like this: D2 flexion “sword exercise” and external rotation @ 90 degrees abduction.
Move 2: Hitting the big left hand
This, believe it or not, is a lot of work on the left shoulder. Hitting slopers like this causes you to compress a lot, which can cause some anterior translation of the shoulder. Doing this in this overhead position creates less stability, so it’s really important to have good strength of your rotator cuff to not suffer an injury or develop anterior shoulder pain.
My recommended training move: Face pulls with overhead press
Move 3: throwing out right
This is where we discovered 3 different Betas. Emile goes more for the direct. I go for the side but without the heel hook, and Bailey goes for the same but using the heel hook so much more statically. The heel hook wasn’t working for me, at all. I had hurt my hamstring just before this trip, and man, I could not generate much strength on it. Every time I tried to load into it, it wasn’t enough to hold me there. BUT, using the toe hook and the left toe to generate power did.
My recommended training move: nordic hamstring curls and heel hook training
Move 4: the top
Now, Emile's beta really pays off. His right hand is already in a great position to allow him to rock onto the left heel and get over. You’ll notice the beta for Bailey and I takes a bit longer because we have to throw our left hand up to eventually get the right.
My recommended training move:
For Emile's beta: shoulder ER @ 90 deg abduction
For Bailey and Jason's: nordic hamstring curls
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
#anatomyoftheclimb #greatwhite #physicaltherapist
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: hoopersbeta.com
Welcome to Anatomy of the Climb, Episode 2! Today we're analyzing a climb in Joe's Valley, Utah, called "Great White." It's a fun and aesthetic chunk of rock easily accessible in Right Fork.
Follow Jenn and Bailey in Instagram!
Jenn: instagram.com/jenndbell
Bailey: instagram.com/iceeiceebailey
// Support the channel by shopping with these links (we're not sponsored by these companies) //
- Hooper's Beta T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Therabands: amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Lacrosse/Massage Ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless Steel Massage Tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable Dumbbells (pricey but useful!): amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's Favorite Climbing Shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our Favorite Chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
Move 1: Internal rotation
First, right out of the gait, we see the internal rotation and loading of the left shoulder. Now, this is not a dangerous move for the shoulder because the hands and feet are so good, but this is a strenuous move on the shoulder. Have good external rotation strength of the infraspinatus and teres minor is important with this as you are really taking those muscles to the end range. Also having good scapular mechanics overhead helps really safeguard you against developing any should impingement.
My recommended training for moves like this: D2 flexion “sword exercise” and external rotation @ 90 degrees abduction.
Move 2: Hitting the big left hand
This, believe it or not, is a lot of work on the left shoulder. Hitting slopers like this causes you to compress a lot, which can cause some anterior translation of the shoulder. Doing this in this overhead position creates less stability, so it’s really important to have good strength of your rotator cuff to not suffer an injury or develop anterior shoulder pain.
My recommended training move: Face pulls with overhead press
Move 3: throwing out right
This is where we discovered 3 different Betas. Emile goes more for the direct. I go for the side but without the heel hook, and Bailey goes for the same but using the heel hook so much more statically. The heel hook wasn’t working for me, at all. I had hurt my hamstring just before this trip, and man, I could not generate much strength on it. Every time I tried to load into it, it wasn’t enough to hold me there. BUT, using the toe hook and the left toe to generate power did.
My recommended training move: nordic hamstring curls and heel hook training
Move 4: the top
Now, Emile's beta really pays off. His right hand is already in a great position to allow him to rock onto the left heel and get over. You’ll notice the beta for Bailey and I takes a bit longer because we have to throw our left hand up to eventually get the right.
My recommended training move:
For Emile's beta: shoulder ER @ 90 deg abduction
For Bailey and Jason's: nordic hamstring curls
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
