Hoopers Beta | Why Does My Shoulder Hurt When Climbing? | Viewer Questions @HoopersBeta | Uploaded December 2020 | Updated October 2024, 16 minutes ago.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #bicepspain #physicaltherapy
T-Shirts are now available!!!
hoopersbeta.com/t-shirts
“All profits from these ultra-soft, triblend shirts help us acquire better training and rehab equipment. They also allow us to put more time into producing content, which means better and more frequent videos to help YOU! Thank you for your support, we love this community!”
— Jason & Emile
Now.... on to the viewer questions!
FUN FACT!
Manatees use farting to help control their buoyancy!!! An adult manatee will eat between 100 and 150 pounds of vegetation each day which means a lot of methane builds up inside. If they want to float to the top they hold it in and if they want to sink they let it rip.
Viewer: M. Schyluer Jarman
Question: Low volume, high intensity, so like 3 sets of 5,3, 1-2 reps? Im guessing only top rep matters as long as you are tracking strength gains?
Video in Reference: Should Climbers Weight Train? (MY PERSPECTIVE AS A PHYSICAL THERAPIST)
Answer:
This question is in relation to strength training and the amount of repetitions to perform. They mention 3 sets. The first being 5 reps, second 3, and third 1-2 reps. This format is awesome for strength training. The style of this repetition is to focus on building strength while avoiding hypertrophy, which is great for climbing. My modification, though, is to do 4-5 total sets, depending on how warmed up you are. I like to do my first set of 8-10 repetitions as my warm up, then 5-6 reps as the second set, 3-4 as the third, and the final two are going to range between 1-3 repetitions. This model will help you avoid injury, avoid getting too swoll, while still getting strong!
Viewer: Stan van der Voort
Question: How much force am I supposed to put into the palm crimps? It feels like the only reason it hurts is because I push too hard. Puddy crimps are mostly fine.
Video in Reference: A2 Pulley Injuries: Everything climbers need to know (STRAINS, TEARS, & SURGERY)
Answer: That's a great question and why I eventually like to use things like puddy or farmer crimps, because they are measurable. The palm crimps are more about your self control. You can vary the amount of force you create entirely off of how much force you create lol. The great, positive, thing about this, is that you can produce as much or as little force as needed while NOT producing pain ;) BUT, the hard part about this, is that it is not measurable so it is harder to track your progress. So to directly answer your question: you should only be applying as much force as to create little to no discomfort, but enough to load the tissue so we start to promote positive changes to our healing tissue. Once you can, move on to something that is more measurable and objective and less subjective. That way you can track your progress and really tell if you are improving or not.
Sidenote: this actually brings up a deeper thought of mine relating to these issues. Try and be objective. Really. When we have an injury, the body has a lot of different processes going on, both neurological and physiological. Sometimes, your body can be hard to read and can be confusing and hard to tell if you’re doing better or making progress. You may be getting frustrated, when really you’re doing fine. You may get impatient, when really, you’re healing normally. Try and be objective with your rehab and make it measurable. That way you can feel confident that your rehab is working. That confidence will make your injury feel better, meaning you’ll be less frustrated, more focused, and it will have a positive snowball effect.
Viewer: James Blackwell
Question: Do you think 1 arm pull ups really add to your climbing higher grades or finger strength is more a factor?
Video in Reference: How to One-Arm Pullup (in 16 Levels of Difficulty)
Answer: Overall finger strength and technique would be more important in my opinion. This is especially true as you are advancing through the more difficult grades. Having a lot of upper body strength may allow you to quickly progress through V0-V4-5, but then technique becomes more and more important. Have any of you seen your gymnast friends climb V3 their first day and are basically campusing it? Yeah. Super strong. But eventually, finger strength on those tiny holds becomes a factor.
To see the rest of the questions answered, please head to
HoopersBeta.com/library/viewer-questions-ep-10
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
#trainclimbsendrepeat #bicepspain #physicaltherapy
T-Shirts are now available!!!
hoopersbeta.com/t-shirts
“All profits from these ultra-soft, triblend shirts help us acquire better training and rehab equipment. They also allow us to put more time into producing content, which means better and more frequent videos to help YOU! Thank you for your support, we love this community!”
— Jason & Emile
Now.... on to the viewer questions!
FUN FACT!
Manatees use farting to help control their buoyancy!!! An adult manatee will eat between 100 and 150 pounds of vegetation each day which means a lot of methane builds up inside. If they want to float to the top they hold it in and if they want to sink they let it rip.
Viewer: M. Schyluer Jarman
Question: Low volume, high intensity, so like 3 sets of 5,3, 1-2 reps? Im guessing only top rep matters as long as you are tracking strength gains?
Video in Reference: Should Climbers Weight Train? (MY PERSPECTIVE AS A PHYSICAL THERAPIST)
Answer:
This question is in relation to strength training and the amount of repetitions to perform. They mention 3 sets. The first being 5 reps, second 3, and third 1-2 reps. This format is awesome for strength training. The style of this repetition is to focus on building strength while avoiding hypertrophy, which is great for climbing. My modification, though, is to do 4-5 total sets, depending on how warmed up you are. I like to do my first set of 8-10 repetitions as my warm up, then 5-6 reps as the second set, 3-4 as the third, and the final two are going to range between 1-3 repetitions. This model will help you avoid injury, avoid getting too swoll, while still getting strong!
Viewer: Stan van der Voort
Question: How much force am I supposed to put into the palm crimps? It feels like the only reason it hurts is because I push too hard. Puddy crimps are mostly fine.
Video in Reference: A2 Pulley Injuries: Everything climbers need to know (STRAINS, TEARS, & SURGERY)
Answer: That's a great question and why I eventually like to use things like puddy or farmer crimps, because they are measurable. The palm crimps are more about your self control. You can vary the amount of force you create entirely off of how much force you create lol. The great, positive, thing about this, is that you can produce as much or as little force as needed while NOT producing pain ;) BUT, the hard part about this, is that it is not measurable so it is harder to track your progress. So to directly answer your question: you should only be applying as much force as to create little to no discomfort, but enough to load the tissue so we start to promote positive changes to our healing tissue. Once you can, move on to something that is more measurable and objective and less subjective. That way you can track your progress and really tell if you are improving or not.
Sidenote: this actually brings up a deeper thought of mine relating to these issues. Try and be objective. Really. When we have an injury, the body has a lot of different processes going on, both neurological and physiological. Sometimes, your body can be hard to read and can be confusing and hard to tell if you’re doing better or making progress. You may be getting frustrated, when really you’re doing fine. You may get impatient, when really, you’re healing normally. Try and be objective with your rehab and make it measurable. That way you can feel confident that your rehab is working. That confidence will make your injury feel better, meaning you’ll be less frustrated, more focused, and it will have a positive snowball effect.
Viewer: James Blackwell
Question: Do you think 1 arm pull ups really add to your climbing higher grades or finger strength is more a factor?
Video in Reference: How to One-Arm Pullup (in 16 Levels of Difficulty)
Answer: Overall finger strength and technique would be more important in my opinion. This is especially true as you are advancing through the more difficult grades. Having a lot of upper body strength may allow you to quickly progress through V0-V4-5, but then technique becomes more and more important. Have any of you seen your gymnast friends climb V3 their first day and are basically campusing it? Yeah. Super strong. But eventually, finger strength on those tiny holds becomes a factor.
To see the rest of the questions answered, please head to
HoopersBeta.com/library/viewer-questions-ep-10
Disclaimer:
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
Written and Presented by Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS, CAFS
IG: @hoopersbetaofficial
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
emilemodesitt.com
IG: @emile166
