Retro Tech & Electronics | Coleman Lantern Model 220 Rebuild, Restoration & Conservation Part 1 @retrotechandelectronics | Uploaded November 2021 | Updated October 2024, 16 hours ago.
Today will begin the Restoration/Conservation project for a Coleman 200J Lantern that I have at the ready in the event of power outages. Over 40 years old It has seen its fair share of abuse and will need an overhaul if it will last another 40 reliably. This project will use some test methods that will be analyzed in subsequent videos for durability.
The project as expected with start with disassembly, carefully as to not cause more damage than already exists. Penetrating oil is helpful. The old mantles are removed outdoors. During disassembly, account is taken as to rust and areas where plating is removed. The glass should be inspected for damage, and replaced if there is found to be any. The cleaning rod has a very delicate needle at the end that can be easily damaged during disassembly or cleaning, care should be taken.
Testing is conducted when the top pieces are removed for the pump and the valve. The valve assembly packing and the cleaner knob packing should not be unnecessarily opened. These tests are conducted before the valve assembly is removed from the lower canister. The pump may require oil for its test if not functioning.
The valve itself is loosened in the soft jaws of a vice. After which the canister can be flushed with clean Coleman fuel. Each piece can then be inspected, cleaned and polished as necessary.
The Canister is brought outside and taped up to cover any ports, and sprayed with paint stripper. Left for half an hour, Just touching with a metal brush removes the paint easily. Items are ready to be brought to the Bug ranch for Sand Blasting Powder coating and special high temp painting in the next episode.
#coleman #colemanlantern
Today will begin the Restoration/Conservation project for a Coleman 200J Lantern that I have at the ready in the event of power outages. Over 40 years old It has seen its fair share of abuse and will need an overhaul if it will last another 40 reliably. This project will use some test methods that will be analyzed in subsequent videos for durability.
The project as expected with start with disassembly, carefully as to not cause more damage than already exists. Penetrating oil is helpful. The old mantles are removed outdoors. During disassembly, account is taken as to rust and areas where plating is removed. The glass should be inspected for damage, and replaced if there is found to be any. The cleaning rod has a very delicate needle at the end that can be easily damaged during disassembly or cleaning, care should be taken.
Testing is conducted when the top pieces are removed for the pump and the valve. The valve assembly packing and the cleaner knob packing should not be unnecessarily opened. These tests are conducted before the valve assembly is removed from the lower canister. The pump may require oil for its test if not functioning.
The valve itself is loosened in the soft jaws of a vice. After which the canister can be flushed with clean Coleman fuel. Each piece can then be inspected, cleaned and polished as necessary.
The Canister is brought outside and taped up to cover any ports, and sprayed with paint stripper. Left for half an hour, Just touching with a metal brush removes the paint easily. Items are ready to be brought to the Bug ranch for Sand Blasting Powder coating and special high temp painting in the next episode.
#coleman #colemanlantern
![Sears Silvertone Twin Twelve 1484 Major Restoration Project [4/6]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/gMNh0eFGOnI/hqdefault.jpg "Sears Silvertone Twin Twelve 1484 Major Restoration Project [4/6]
With this the fourth part in the series , we continue the troubleshooting with the 6FQ7 phase inverter section. A method employed was simply disconnecting the phase inverter section from the finals physically and ruling out that section. With this the final section was quickly ruled out as the culprit. Interesting point, given the different output and no tube in the socket, a passible component must be producing the issue!!!!
I quickly learn that we have some considerably STRANGE resistor issues throughout!. Resistors out of spec are simply replaced, thats a no brainer. and i got lucky too because that fixed one of the first issues in the amp. Though its improving, there are so many artifacts, thee are other things too.
At this point I bust out the T4 Heathkit signal tracer. With this I can hear the clicking, and the hum and the his and everything, But its noise mode that really finds things like this. Turns out its a noisy resistor causing this one. Even removed we can hear the resistor cracking in the T4 in noise more. One less noise in the amp. but still work to do, but the phase inverter is finally cleared.
Working back to the pre-amp section, there is no shortage of problems either. Though, voltage measurements show that there is more resistor changes to be done, identifying complete failures in circuit.
Even with the voltages finally within reason, I continue to find noisy resistors, so I continue swaps just for that reason alone.
An added bonus is a tube socket pin repair I did, as I managed to break one off. Luckily I keep spare parts for this occasion.
A function test is done to include reverb, tremolo and also.... AM radio.... Yes.... AM radio
Another round of voltage re-measurements are conducted and shown to be good, except for a few minor changes to do.
We get the amp sitting straight on the bench and begin some signal testing one issue I found was an oscillation in the reverb section i could not initially identify that was tied into the treble somehow. I get it back in test position to validate the feedback. Turns out, I needed a smaller test speaker when the amp is out of cabinet. No trouble found. The Crapola mini test speaker validated this. Including my no frills Peter Framption impression.
A last walkthrough is done with the T4, and the output coupled to a dummyload.
A last artifact lead to an interesting event, finding a bad connection during more resistor testing, turns out it wasnt the resistor, but its solder to the phase inverter. Test with the T4 shows no hum at the 6AU7, and a test on the speaker sounds good.
Not a single artifact is heard through the speaker on a shorted input with the volume turned up. That completes this portion of the project. Tune in for the next video in the series.
#retrotechandelectronics #vintagetubeamprepairs")
