![1902 Champion Blower & Forge Co. No. 400 Forge Blower (Part Two) [Restoration] @HandToolRescue](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/sWNOapWrtNs/maxresdefault.jpg)
Uploaded February 2017 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
instagram.com/handtoolrescue for upcoming projects.
In this video, I paint all the parts and reassemble the forge blower. It is too cold here for me to put thick oil into the crankcase as it would then be too difficult to turn over. It is also too cold to seal the fan case with some silicone, so I will do that during the summer. I am sure I could adjust the bearings to make it run even smoother, but I will do that when I go to use it in its final place. Final thick greasing will be done then as well, until then, the poor lithium grease will work for this video.
Champion Blower & Forge Co. really knew how to make something last a long time and still run great!
My hope is to pair it with a forge table one day.
instagram.com/handtoolrescue for upcoming projects.
In this video, I paint all the parts and reassemble the forge blower. It is too cold here for me to put thick oil into the crankcase as it would then be too difficult to turn over. It is also too cold to seal the fan case with some silicone, so I will do that during the summer. I am sure I could adjust the bearings to make it run even smoother, but I will do that when I go to use it in its final place. Final thick greasing will be done then as well, until then, the poor lithium grease will work for this video.
Champion Blower & Forge Co. really knew how to make something last a long time and still run great!
My hope is to pair it with a forge table one day.
![1902 Champion Blower & Forge Co. No. 400 Forge Blower (Part Two) [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/sWNOapWrtNs/mqdefault.jpg "1902 Champion Blower & Forge Co. No. 400 Forge Blower (Part Two) [Restoration]
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue for upcoming projects.
In this video, I paint all the parts and reassemble the forge blower. It is too cold here for me to put thick oil into the crankcase as it would then be too difficult to turn over. It is also too cold to seal the fan case with some silicone, so I will do that during the summer. I am sure I could adjust the bearings to make it run even smoother, but I will do that when I go to use it in its final place. Final thick greasing will be done then as well, until then, the poor lithium grease will work for this video.
Champion Blower & Forge Co. really knew how to make something last a long time and still run great!
My hope is to pair it with a forge table one day.")
![Underwater Pneumatic Reciprocating Saw [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/t7In-zbH42I/mqdefault.jpg "Underwater Pneumatic Reciprocating Saw [Restoration]
This restoration focuses on an underwater pneumatic reciprocating saw made by the Wright Power Saw and Tool Corp. in the 1940s-1960s. The saw design was first filed for a patent in 1947 and granted in 1952 (https://patents.google.com/patent/US2598480). The decals on the particular saw in this video mention that the patents are still pending, so it may have been made in the late 1940s/early 1950s.
These saws were apparently used in bridgework, but also had different saw blades for meat or ice. I believe this one may have been used for ice as the saw blade teeth do not have any set to them.
The internal components of the saw were in great condition as they are almost all aluminum and covered in oil. The external steel components were fairly rusted. I rebuilt all the internal components and de-rusted, sanded, painted, and polished the external components. Remaking the decal was difficult as most words were missing and photos online did not give a clear example of what it should. Eventually, I found enough different photos and catalogues that let me piece together the wording (https://imgur.com/pM1qFhp). The digital recreation of the decals was done by Forma Graphics (formagraphicart@gmail.com).
There was no information whatsoever on how much air was needed to run this specific saw. All I could find was an advertisement of a similar later model smaller saw made by Wright that mentioned 60CFM at 80-100psi, so I decided to rent a 70CFM compressor and hope for the best. Unfortunately, it wasnt enough and the saw did not cut well through wood. The fact that the teeth had no set also may have made things worse. My guess is that this needs 100-150CFM to function properly.
You can see parts of the saw explode out the front of the saw during the first test. The rod that the springs slide onto snapped in two and needed to be completely remade before the saw would function again. You can see on instagram (https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue/) how I remade that part out of tool steel.
I also wish I could have tested this in some nice clear water like a pool, but all of those are now closed, and the saw spits out an INSANE amount of oil to function.
I am really excited to add this saw to my collection as it is not common and sounds absolutely amazing when in use!
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
![Antique Drag Saw [Restoration] - Part 2: Will It Run?](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/t9rkPif0Oi8/mqdefault.jpg "Antique Drag Saw [Restoration] - Part 2: Will It Run?
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGGlaOozLPs
In this restoration I tackle the largest project I have done to date! This is a 1920-1930s drag or log saw made by the Ottawa Mfg. Co. of Ottawa, Kansas, USA. This is a TE model with a 5HP 4-stroke engine on it. The saw mimics the sawing action of two people using a non-powered crosscut saw. The saw blade itself is 5ft long.
I have not dealt with 4-stroke engines very often in my restoration history, so it was a lot of fun learning along the way.
The tool itself shows signs of many repairs over its ~100 years, including a lot of brazing due to large frost cracks and completely broken castings in other places. The wooden base is rotting away and is cracked in many places. The magneto does not produce spark and the piston is stuck as well!
In this video I tackle the repair of the wooden base as well as reassemble everything for testing. I decided to only paint certain parts and to leave the new wooden base rustic looking to match the rest of the saw. I plan on bringing the saw to antique engine shows, so I thought that making it look old would be the right choice.
This project was entirely funded by patrons so I want to keep this tool and show it off when I can as a way to remember everyones contributions.
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
![1920s Maytag Washing Machine Engine [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/t_egp4Hqc8Q/mqdefault.jpg "1920s Maytag Washing Machine Engine [Restoration]
And so begins the restoration of the gas-powered washing machine! This restoration is on a 1929 No. 92 Maytag Multi-Motor. These hit and miss engines are actually quite common with around 600,000 made between 1927 and 1937 in Newton, Iowa, USA. These motors originally powered washing machines for clothes, but were also put on things line lawn mowers and toy race cars.
The restoration on this particular motor was a lot of fun as I had a secondary motor for parts as well as access to brand new parts that are still made today. It is an excellent project for someone wanting to restore a small engine.
I decided to change the paint scheme just a bit from original, but I really like how it turned out. Obviously, I was disappointed at the motor exploding at the end, but luckily I had a replacement part! The carburetor needed the most work as it was not in the best condition. I decided to give all painted surfaces a coat of clear fuel-resistant paint, just in case.
I am super excited to put this thing on a restored washing machine, which is what I plan on doing next! The new parts were made by Flywheel Supply.
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/")
![1900s Pedal Metal Lathe [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/u71kzF1XfQM/mqdefault.jpg "1900s Pedal Metal Lathe [Restoration]
This restoration is on an early 1900s W.F. and John Barnes Co. No. 5 velocipede screw lathe. James from the @WoodByWright YouTube channel came to my shop with two of these lathes; one for me and one for him. We both absolutely love the look of this lathe and he plans on using his frequently in his workshop.
The lathes were missing many parts and James had them re-cast while I did the machining on them. The lathes were both is better than expected condition for being over 100 years old. I decided to paint mine black which was consistent with the original japanning used for a finish on this lathe. If I had sorted out my cold-cure japanning recipe, then I would have loved to do japanning on this restoration. We only had three days together, so after we put primer on the parts, James had to leave.
James kept the only 3-jaw chuck, as he plans on using the lathe on a regular basis, so I had to do some test cuts using the old drill chuck. This was a poor choice and the cut quality was horrendous. Pedalling the lathe is actually pretty fun for about 25 seconds until you start cutting and you have to start pedalling with some serious force. This lathe could easily be converted to an electric powered one and it would make a pretty nice 11 lathe.
I am not sure what to do with the lathe now as I really wont use this over my other metal lathe! I had an amazing time with James and I hope to visit his shop one day as well.
You can see an advertisement for this lathe here: https://imgur.com/hVdlVut
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/")
![Antique Vertical Steam Engine - Part 1 [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ucRF42U_ZFk/mqdefault.jpg "Antique Vertical Steam Engine - Part 1 [Restoration]
This restoration is on a 1920s Orr & Sembower vertical steam engine. It was apparently found in a river in Kansas, USA before being shipped to me. This steam engine is one of the worst condition items to ever come across my workbench. I have not worked on a steam engine before, so this will be a fun learning experience.
In Part 1, I completely disassemble what is remaining of the steam engine and start to work on remaking all the missing parts. At some point, it was stripped for bronze or brass scrap metal, so almost all of those parts will need to be replaced. This includes the bronze shoes on the crosshead, as well as all the steam fittings and fasteners.
After rust removal, I can see the steam engine used to be black and that there is significant wear in all of the babbitt bearings, so they will need to be re-poured. The piston and piston rings are damaged and will both need to be replaced. The main shaft is too deteriorated to be salvaged and the eccentric has an improperly fit repair.
At this point, if this steam engine can be brought back to life, I will be very impressed.
Wrenches and screwdrivers are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
![Hand-Cranked Grinder [Rescue]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/urPF3MJtvjc/mqdefault.jpg "Hand-Cranked Grinder [Rescue]
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue/ for upcoming projects.
This grinder was not moving smoothly and needed some rust removal. It still needs a proper handle and to have the grinding wheel dressed or replaced. There were no maker marks on this one.")
![Antique Check Perforator [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/uvAO6lh0h1I/mqdefault.jpg "Antique Check Perforator [Restoration]
This restoration is on an antique check/cheque perforator made by the B.F. Cummins Co. This tool was patented in 1918 and the original patent document can be seen here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US1285837A
The perforator was recently sent to me by a viewer and was interesting enough to try and restore right away. It was used to cancel checks by marking them with the word PAID and the date.
I decided to give the tool a brand new coat of japanning as that was the original finish. I ended up using 3 coats of japanning on all castings. The punch plate for the perforator was made out of aluminum and most of the pins were incredibly stuck. For some reason, the pins are surrounded by an incredible amount of solder, for no discernible reason. The brass rings help index the proper date to perforate the paper and must have been an absolute nightmare to machine. I had to nickel-plate a bunch of parts for this machine as well.
In the end it worked well and I wish it could do letters as well as that would much more fun!
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/")
