Uploaded September 2019 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Some say, it's necessarily complicated. Some, not me, but some. This restoration was on an 1891 patented apple peeler. These were made by the Goodell Co. in Antrim, New Hampshire beginning in the 1890s. I do not know when they halted production of this apple parer, so a more exact age of this specific peeler is unknown. Later models even had a spiral slicer attachment. Personally, I love tools with tons of moving parts that all work synchronistically.
You can see the patent document here: patents.google.com/patent/US449050A
You can see a 1918 advertisement here: https://i.imgur.com/EfGZlJZ.jpg
This specific tool was previously repainted and so I decided to leave the metal parts completely bare after paint removal. I really do like the "raw steel" look for a type of restoration where you still want the tool to look "old".
I ended up only replacing the brass bushings on this unit and the rest of the restoration focused on making sure the peeler looked great and was safe to use.
It would be fun to remake the parts that touch the apple out of stainless steel, so that you didn't have to oil everything again after you cleaned the metal parts.
Finding more complicated apple peelers is definitely moving up on my list!
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue
Some say, it's necessarily complicated. Some, not me, but some. This restoration was on an 1891 patented apple peeler. These were made by the Goodell Co. in Antrim, New Hampshire beginning in the 1890s. I do not know when they halted production of this apple parer, so a more exact age of this specific peeler is unknown. Later models even had a spiral slicer attachment. Personally, I love tools with tons of moving parts that all work synchronistically.
You can see the patent document here: patents.google.com/patent/US449050A
You can see a 1918 advertisement here: https://i.imgur.com/EfGZlJZ.jpg
This specific tool was previously repainted and so I decided to leave the metal parts completely bare after paint removal. I really do like the "raw steel" look for a type of restoration where you still want the tool to look "old".
I ended up only replacing the brass bushings on this unit and the rest of the restoration focused on making sure the peeler looked great and was safe to use.
It would be fun to remake the parts that touch the apple out of stainless steel, so that you didn't have to oil everything again after you cleaned the metal parts.
Finding more complicated apple peelers is definitely moving up on my list!
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue

![Vise Drill Anvil [Restoration]
In this restoration I restore a vise drill anvil combination tool. This odd tool was manufactured by Rock Island Mfg. Co. from 1915-1930s when the company went out of business. You can see the original patent here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US1111103
This tool was sent to me by a viewer in hopes of getting everything back in order. The only part missing was the hardy tool for the anvil, but those can be easily made. I would not recommend using cast iron as an anvil material though as it will most likely shatter. The entire concept of this combination tool is something that is not synergistic and is actually just a poor anvil, drill, and vise. Nevertheless, these are somewhat common and must have been popular with at least some number of customers.
I replaced all the old japanning with new coats of japanning. I tried to slap on more layers of japanning as an experiment to see if I could get a smoother finish. The anvil portion had some cracks that needed to be brazed and the vise jaws were machined off and completely replaced with soft metal ones. I personally use soft jaws more often.
To use the drill you have to turn one handle to advance the bit and another to spin the drill. Its a very odd experience, but neat nonetheless.
Since this tool was sent to me, I would love to pass it along one day, so if you are interested, let me know!
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall Vise Drill Anvil [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/yZQQhkFjVLM/mqdefault.jpg)

![Old Workshop Tour [a horrifying look into a man with too much stuff]
Enjoy this time filling video of me rambling on about things in my workshop.
New workshop soon! I am slowing going insane due to lack of restoration work. Old Workshop Tour [a horrifying look into a man with too much stuff]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/z1DlZoSykBc/mqdefault.jpg)
![IBM Computing Cheese Cutter [Restoration]
This restoration is on a ~1920s International Business Machines (IBM) cheese cutter. Several different parts of this machine were all patented between 1901-1907 by William G. Templeton. The main patent can be seen here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US728181A
This item was brought to me by a friend for restoration, so I made sure that whatever restoration choices the needed to be made were discussed with him. The cheese cutter was most likely used for commercial purposes in a local deli, but the exact provenance is completely lost with time.
Most of the time spent restoring this tool was spent on me trying to figure out why it was so much more complicated than it needed to be. I finally figured out how the cheese cutter works, and you can skip to the end of the video for a detailed explanation by me.
Beyond the usual repainting of parts, several parts were missing and had to be completely re-fabricated from scratch. The warp-proof wooden board was made out of maple and walnut wood in layers with alternating grain direction. Ive never made my own plywood before, so that was something I hope to never do again.
I am excited to see where this cutter goes next and I think I would be really neat to see it back in action a local deli.
Thanks again for https://www.evapo-rust.com for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches and screwdrivers are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall IBM Computing Cheese Cutter [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/z8VhNF_0I5c/mqdefault.jpg)

![Antique Belt Lacer [Restoration]
This tool restoration was on an antique belt lacer. This machine was made by the Clipper Belt Lacer Company from Grand Rapids, MI, USA around 1910s-1920s. This model (No. 3) can lace belts up to 6in wide. These belts, usually made of leather, were used to power machinery during this time period and a tool like this would be very useful to link belts together quickly and get a machine running.
I had to de-rust the parts first, just to see where paint was and wasnt. There was so much paint loss in areas that it would have been really hard to tell if a part was painted a certain way if I didnt have a better look with the rust removed. Sandblasting first would have messed this up.
The metal pin used to hold the clipper belt lacing was incredibly stuck in its brass or bronze housing. I had to use a mix of alum and water to dissolve the steel pin out of it.
I used 4 coats of black enamel paint and 3 coats of a clear coat for this project.
I remade the handles using jatoba even though the original handles were just a lighter wood that was stained black and thickly lacquered. I didnt want to do that to such a nice wood.
I was really excited to restore this tool as I will definitely be using it in the future for more tool restorations.
The patent is located here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US1012614
Id like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/ Antique Belt Lacer [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/zFa4Hfs81kE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Hovering Lawn Mower [Restoration]
This restoration is on a 1965 Toro Flymo 19 hovering lawn mower. It was patented in 1963 and you can see the exact patent here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US3110996A/en
I believe Toro only manufactured this in 1965 before selling the Flymo brand to Electrolux. The hovering action was especially useful for mowing ditches or golf greens.
A viewer sent me this lawn mower in 2017 and I am happy to finally get to it. Despite looking like it had been used quite a lot, this Flymo had remarkably clean engine internals. The engine still needed new gaskets as they were most likely contributing to a loss of lubrication, fuel, and compression.
I decided to only repaint the parts that were not aluminum or ones that would get hot. Personally, I dislike painting those types of parts.
The fiberglass base was the most difficult to restore and I did not get it back to 100% new. I first cleaned it with degreaser and then slowly used a razor blade to scrape off any damaged or discoloured fibres. I then gave it a clear coat of two-component fuel-resistant paint. There were some deeper stains, but it definitely looked much better. This is literally the first time I have had a tool with fiberglass parts.
I had all the digital art for the decals recreated by Jeff at formagraphicart@gmail.com. He has done a bunch of recreations for me and does a fantastic job. I then had the digital decals printed on vinyl at a local shop.
As for the function of this mower...its amazing! I had way way too much fun cutting my lawn with this and I might just keep using this one from now on. The biggest downside is that you have to carry it to your lawn when its not on, as it does not have wheels. Luckily, the whole unit weighs 25lbs, so its relatively light.
I am surprised these are not more popular in North America, like they are in the U.K.
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall Hovering Lawn Mower [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/zGM6Dh3V-FM/mqdefault.jpg)
![Bridgebort Milling Machine [Rescue]
It is time to bring my 1960s Bridgeport milling machine back to life! This is a 100% genuine clapped-out mill that I picked up about a year ago. I always hated the horrible white paint job someone did on this machine, so that needs to be fixed. There are also several worn, missing, or completely broken parts that all need attention. This isnt a full restoration, but more of a rescue.
I first needed to remove all paint and body filler, which there was a lot of! Then I needed to install a new quill spring and make new cam ring pins, a new quill lock handle, and install new measuring indicators. Someone converted this mill to use grease instead of oil, which is blasphemous, so all oil lines needed to be fully replaced with ACTUAL oil in them.
I decided to not paint the mill at all and leave it completely bare metal. This matches the look of the tools in the rest of my shop and makes it easy for me to add paint later if I feel like it.
I took everything related to the axes apart, but I did not disassemble the head, as I wasnt planning on replacing any worn parts in it.
Overall, the mill is in an average condition and I think some bronze wear components will need to be replaced within the next 5-10 years depending on my usage.
I am not a machinist aiming for high levels of accuracy, so as long as the tool can get the job done, I am happy for now.
Wrenches and screwdrivers are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall Bridgebort Milling Machine [Rescue]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/zGv7MkdIP_w/mqdefault.jpg)