Hoopers Beta
Is Full Crimping Really More Dangerous for Climbers?
updated
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🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#fitnessmotivation #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#onearmpullup #climbingtraining #fitnessmotivation
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode __
hoopersbeta.com/library
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
In this video we use some classic Moonboard climbs to demonstrate broadly applicable techniques that climbers often don't do, ultimately leading to them falling off. This is Part 1, covering V4-V6 (though these techniques apply to any skill level). Climbs featured: Wuthering Heights V4, Al a gait or V4, Magnum V6.
Special thanks to pro climber and Olympian Kyra Condie for joining us today! Find her on Instagram at Kyra_Condie (instagram.com/Kyra_condie)
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Overview
00:19 Kyra's method for big moves off high feet
02:00 Why climbers get stuck "in between" holds
04:12 When NOT to open-hand holds (crimp!!)
06:08 Sometimes you can't "technique" your way out
07:39 Why you must learn to dig behind holds
09:27 Why your movement looks clunky sometimes
10:21 Jason makes a great point but fails hilariously
12:12 When your arm and shoulder is "out of sync"
13:33 Climbers have been misled about "disengaged" shoulders
15:47 Kyra's final beta
16:27 Embarrassing story
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 145
hoopersbeta.com/library/before-you-moonboard-know-this-part-1
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Beastmaker board sets (so good!!): beastmaker.co.uk/products/whole-board-sets
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context
00:32 Consequences of not using this technique...
01:00 The secret about this technique
02:17 This routine + 2 BONUS exercises are on CRIMPD!
02:47 Find the form
03:34 Refine the form
04:26 Try it on the wall
05:55 Add complexity
07:56 Add complexity and physicality
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 144
hoopersbeta.com/library/scorpion-skill-why-does-no-one-teach-this-climbing-technique
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Thanks to @AnnaHazelnutt fo joining us!!
Tindeq affiliate link (with discount): tindeq.com/?ref=1003#ref=sponsored
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
1: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Exercise Metabolism: Fuels for the Fire. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2018;8(8):a029744. Published 2018 Aug 1. doi:10.1101/cshperspect.a029744
2: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Skeletal muscle energy metabolism during exercise [published correction appears in Nat Metab. 2020 Sep 10;:]. Nat Metab. 2020;2(9):817-828. doi:10.1038/s42255-020-0251-4
3: Baker JS, McCormick MC, Robergs RA. Interaction among Skeletal Muscle Metabolic Energy Systems during Intense Exercise. J Nutr Metab. 2010;2010:905612. doi:10.1155/2010/905612
4: Ament W, Verkerke GJ. Exercise and fatigue. Sports Med. 2009;39(5):389-422. doi:10.2165/00007256-200939050-00005
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and what to expect
// SECTION 1: Why? //
01:21 Why boulderers should care
02:36 Why not just train strength instead?
// SECTION 2: Endurance Training Options //
03:16 Overview of Training Options
04:08 BOULDERING: Continuous ("Circuiting")
05:03 Circuits Pros and Cons
05:33 BOULDERING: Intermittent
06:40 Which is the better on-wall method: continuous or intermittent?
07:03 Why choose on-wall vs off-wall?
07:29 HANGBOARD: Overview
08:38 HANGBOARD: Continuous (Not Recommended)
08:53 HANGBOARD: Intermittent ("Repeaters")
09:53 When is a set of repeaters complete?
11:04 CAMPUS BOARD: Continuous and Intermittent
12:18 How do I modify the intensity on a campus board?
12:52 ROPE CLIMBING: Overview
13:45 ROPE CLIMBING: Continuous and Intermittent
14:25 Which is better for endurance: top rope or lead?
15:01 How many laps should I do for top rope sets?
15:49 BONUS! TINDEQ PROGRESSOR: Critical Force Protocol
// SECTION 3: Programming recommendations //
16:45 So... which method should I choose?
17:40 Why no talk of energy systems?
19:35 How long should endurance sets be in general?
20:10 How intense should endurance sets be?
21:00 How many endurance sets per training session?
21:47 How much rest should I take?
23:02 When in my session do I do endurance training?
23:58 How many times a week should I train endurance?
// SECTION 4: Final tips and tricks //
24:42 Pick the right climbs
25:09 Head to the overhang
25:33 Get back on if you make a mistake
25:53 Key to long-term progress...
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 143
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-stop-punting-endurance-training-for-boulderers-guide-2024
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Enter Here ▶ rungne.info/HoopersBeta
🙏 Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk of Mesa Rim North City for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
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🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 What to Expect
00:28 Before Climbing Exercise: Grip Strength
02:30 Shoulder Exercises (Optional)
03:04 Climbing Session
04:48 After Climbing
05:23 Superset 1
08:04 Superset 2 (Optional)
09:55 Final Recommendations
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 141
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-start-strength-training-for-climbing-my-minimalist-routine
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Follow Ieva at:
- Instagram: @luna.al.sol
- YouTube: @yogaforclimberswithievaluna
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context
00:23 Win free Crimpd+ for life!
01:15 Ieva's intro to this routine
02:18 Forearm stretch & nerve glide
03:43 Child's pose
05:51 Downward dog with knee flexion and extension
06:37 Squat (optional weight)
07:37 Goddess pose
08:39 Runner's lunge (right)
09:46 Rectus femoris stretch (left)
10:33 Runner's lunge (left)
11:35 Rectus femoris stretch (right)
12:29 Warrior 3 and half moon (right)
14:21 Wide forward fold
16:29 Cossack squat
17:30 Hip internal rotation (left)
18:16 Pigeon pose (left)
19:26 Plank knee drivers (right)
20:22 Warrior 3 and half moon (left)
21:32 Wide forward fold
22:13 Cossack squat
23:00 Hip internal rotation (right)
23:25 Pigeon pose (right)
24:37 Plank knee drivers (left)
24:59 Puppy pose to upward dog
26:19 Arm circles (right)
27:35 Arm circles (left)
28:38 Relaxation breathing
29:36 Outro
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 141
hoopersbeta.com/library/unlock-insane-functional-mobility-full-follow-along
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
iPhone photo: freepik.com/free-vector/new-modern-realistic-front-view-black-iphone-mockup-isolated-white-mobile-template-vector_33632328.htm#query=iphone%20transparent&position=0&from_view=keyword&track=ais&uuid=efabe3db-fa32-4425-8b14-01089012265f Image by svstudioart on Freepik
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Check out some guidebooks:
➡️ Bishop: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/location/Bishop-316882
➡️ Red Rock: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/location/Red-Rocks-331387
➡️ Joe's valley: kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/location/Joes-Valley-340826
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Preview
00:40 Classic run & jump error
02:10 When your hip mobility ruins your heel hook
03:46 Hip mobility heel hook drill
06:02 Shoulder advice for avoiding injuries
08:55 Her heel hook is perfect (+compression tips)
12:11 Alternate beta
13:01 The MOST useful climbing app, ever
14:03 Proof shoulder external rotation strength is key?
15:27 When to use heels vs toe hooks
18:17 One climbing rule to never break (Janja's scorpion)
19:39 Drive your knee accross the wall, not into it
21:42 Slow climbing will kill your sends
24:22 Pay more attention to opposition
25:36 The Big Climber
32:30 Why you need blubbers and better pad placement
33:51 Trick for pad placement
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 140
hoopersbeta.com/library/one-climbing-rule-to-never-break-other-mistakes-to-avoid
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📱 KAYA PRO (20% off): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
All citations are available at the following link!
https://shorturl.at/iET08
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 The best collagen study yet?
00:57 Understand this about collagen studies
03:10 New study results and what they mean
05:00 Case closed, right? WRONG! More issues...
06:28 An unbiased perspective and my advice
08:05 The hilarious irony of it all
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 139
hoopersbeta.com/library/the-end-of-collagen-for-climbers-new-evidence-advice
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
All citations can be found in the document linked below!
https://shorturl.at/iqEK7
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 138
hoopersbeta.com/library/10-science-backed-ways-to-get-stronger-in-half-the-time
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
- docs.google.com/document/d/1FxFE9csrP-n7ITwwxMhllIP5Xa4w9q8HhXS8GPK6vDQ/edit?usp=sharing
- https://shorturl.at/HOU24
TAPERING RESEARCH
- Changes in Muscle Architecture, Explosive Ability, and Track and Field Throwing Performance Throughout a Competitive Season and After a Taper
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27575250
- Effects of tapering on performance in endurance athletes: A systematic review and meta-analysis
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37163550
- Tapering and Peaking Maximal Strength for Powerlifting Performance: A Review
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32917000
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Bit O' Context
00:57 Deloads Defined
01:55 Why It Matters
04:01 Why We Can Spend Time Making These Videos
05:13 Argument Against Deloads
07:52 Argument In Favor of Deloads
09:57 Reactive Deload Guidelines
12:13 Proactive Deload Guidelines
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 137
hoopersbeta.com/library/deload-weeks-progression-hack-or-harmful-crutch
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
Trad Climbing: Jarek Tuszyński / CC-BY-SA-3.0 & GDFL, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0
Bouldering: 江戸村のとくぞう, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0
Outdoor Climbing: Maria Ly, CC BY-SA 2.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Dan's Moonboard Circuit: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1lF7Bk9rhMYRQUX7o72LrYintEUfZNxfl?usp=sharing
Training Periodization References:
jtsstrength.com/one-type-periodization-part-1
strongerbyscience.com/periodization-data
strongerbyscience.com/periodization-history-theory
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:21 Core-Strength Training
01:04 Antagonist Training
01:54 Interference Effect
02:48 Cardio for Climbers
04:24 Concentric Finger Strength Training
06:25 Recruitment Pulls
06:51 Endurance Training for Boulderers
09:18 Face Pulls
10:25 Training Periodization
12:07 Hangboard/Campusboard Risk for Youth
14:06 Progressive Overload
15:04 Gaining Muscle for Climbing
16:35 Losing Weight for Climbing
17:36 Muscle Confusion
18:45 Lower Body Training
20:13 Stretching & Flexibility Training
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 136
hoopersbeta.com/library/optimizing-training-for-climbing-hype-vs-reality
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
➡️Category 1: Nutrition
00:18 Creatine
03:11 Diet Tracking
07:33 BCAA Supplements
08:28 Collagen Supplements
10:07 Animal Protein vs Plant Protein
11:57 Why We Can Make These Videos for Free :)
➡️Category 2: Recovery
13:12 Deload Phases
15:34 Avoiding Downclimbing
18:05 Ice Baths & Cold Showers
➡️Category 3: Climbing
18:44 High-Angle Crimping
20:45 Ending Climbing Sessions "Before Fatigue"
23:08 Warming Up
25:05 Moonboarding
26:01 Board Climbing / Spray Walls
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 135
hoopersbeta.com/library/hype-vs-science-controversial-climbing-topics-explained
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
videezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Force Gauge by Tindeq: https://tindeq.com?ref=1003
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Stronger by Science: strongerbyscience.com/weekly-load-progression
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 134
hoopersbeta.com/library/6-tips-tools-that-blew-up-my-climbing-progression
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our amazon storefront where we have all the amazing gear we recommend!: amzn.to/40EaZ56
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our amazon storefront where we have all the amazing gear we recommend!: amzn.to/40EaZ56
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Want to climb more like the pros we all look up to? Intention and cueing is key, as evidenced by @AdamOndra and @EmilAbrahamsson on their fantastic YouTube channels.
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
For links to ALL of the citations please see this Google doc (or check the show notes on our website):
docs.google.com/document/d/1bElbGV9dUhdocrADRNdno0x68U8aWzlR_FovD9bvTWk/edit
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
00:48 Cueing Defined
01:46 Why It Matters
03:28 Types of Cue
04:54 Cinematic Intermission
06:26 How It Works
08:49 Advanced Cueing
09:49 What We Learned
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 133
hoopersbeta.com/library/could-cueing-revolutionize-your-climbing-progression
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Is this fingerboading in its purest form? In this episode, Dan shows us how to perform two-armed asymmetrical hangs, aka "mixed hangs." They're so flexible and progress-able, you can use them all the way from total-beginner to world-cup-level finger strength. Plus, they offer a number of advantages over traditional symmetrical hangs (whether one-armed or two-armed), including the fact that they don't require any weights or additional equipment!
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro & Overview
00:31 Part 1: Advantages
02:44 Part 2: Getting Started
03:43 How do I know what holds to use?
05:32 Some Plausible Hold Combinations Based on Skill Level
06:36 Part 3: Progressing
06:52 Progression Step 1
07:48 Progression Step 2
08:20 Progression Step 3
09:16 Part 4: Recommendations
09:25 Improving Efficiency
10:06 Frequency
10:22 Skin Conservation and Conditioning
11:23 Getting Unstuck
12:21 Remember the Premise
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 132
hoopersbeta.com/library/this-old-school-hangboard-method-yields-fingers-of-steel-w/-no-weights
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to Mesa Rim North City (@mesarim_NC)! Get a 1-Week Pass with free Rental Gear when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk!! mesarim.com/northcity
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro & Video Overview
00:28 Climb 1: Lateral Dyno
00:42 Climb 1 Analysis: Hip, Foot Placement Issues
02:31 Climb 1 Demonstration: 3 Mistakes to Avoid
02:49 Mistake #1
05:24 Mistake #2
07:05 Mistake #3
08:05 Climb 2: Vertical Dynamic Move
09:30 Climb 2 Analysis: Humans Aren't Made for This
10:28 Climb 2 Demonstration: Why Climbing Training is Weird
11:54 Drill #1
12:57 Drill #2
14:34 Drill #3
16:11 Climb 3: Full Span Move
16:35 Climb 3 Analysis (Dan): Need More Extension
17:50 Climb 3 Demonstration (Dan): Maximizing Reach
20:16 Climb 3 Analysis (Jason): Figuring Out Body Position
20:50 Climb 3 Demonstration (Jason): Reverse Engineering Movement
22:34 Recap of What We've Learned
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 131
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-conquer-big-moves-with-ease-regardless-of-height
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
🖥️ Flexispot links:
US site: bit.ly/3OenCRt
CAN site: bit.ly/3LMLtVr
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
- Complications of Proximal Interphalangeal Joint Injuries: Prevention and Treatment: bit.ly/3YzUNBa
- The Collateral Ligament of the Digits of the Hand: Anatomy, Physiology, Biomechanics, Injury, and Treatment. bit.ly/3S48jKE
- Jam Injuries of the Finger: Diagnosis and Management of Injuries to the Interphalangeal Joints Across Multiple Sports and Levels of Experience. bit.ly/3YUqJQA
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro/Overview
00:17 Collateral Ligament Anatomy
00:54 Causes of Injury
02:07 Symptoms, Testing, & Diagnosis
04:01 Ruling Out Other Injuries (Differential Diagnosis)
06:26 Rehab/Treatment Options
06:34 Can You Still Climb? (Tape?)
07:31 Active Range of Motion
08:17 Exercise and BFR
08:48 Manual Therapy / Massage
09:06 Joint Mobilization
09:50 Rice Bucket?
10:13 Ice and Heat?
10:56 Patience (and Surgery?)
11:21 Prognosis
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 130
hoopersbeta.com/library/collateral-ligament-injury-from-rock-climbing-causes-fix
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
@EmilAbrahamsson 2-Year Update Video: youtu.be/0rAkLqk3UXM
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!):
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
- The effect of training intensity on voluntary isometric strength improvement. - bit.ly/44XHSMV
- Isometric training and long-term adaptations: Effects of muscle length, intensity, and intent: A systematic review. bit.ly/452Y5R9
- Muscle hypertrophy and strength gains after resistance training with different volume-matched loads: a systematic review and meta-analysis. bit.ly/3M3xURA
- Effects of different duration isometric contractions on tendon elasticity in human quadriceps muscles. bit.ly/3MqINOE
- Effects of isometric squat training on the tendon stiffness and jump performance. bit.ly/3Bo7CEE
- Effects of Resistance Training Performed with Different Loads in Untrained and Trained Male Adult - Individuals on Maximal Strength and Muscle Hypertrophy: A Systematic Review. bit.ly/3Ob1cjY
- Effect of Exercise Intensity on the Healing of the Bone-Tendon Interface: A Mouse Rotator Cuff Injury Model Study . bit.ly/3pAfYGx
- Low-Intensity Physical Exercise Improves Pain Catastrophizing and Other Psychological and - Physical Aspects in Women with Fibromyalgia: A Randomized Controlled bit.ly/42X5AXF
- Effect of Low-intensity Exercise on Physical and Cognitive Health in Older Adults: a Systematic Review. bit.ly/42WYTVw
- Low-intensity Exercise Accelerates Wound Healing in Diabetic Mice. bit.ly/42weSdw
- Optimizing an intermittent stretch paradigm using ERK1/2 phosphorylation results in increased collagen synthesis in engineered ligaments. bit.ly/42Cc9za
- Identification and Distinction of Tenocytes and Tendon-Derived Stem Cells. bit.ly/3nYXcbo
- Value of high-resolution ultrasound in the evaluation of finger injuries in extreme sport climbers]. bit.ly/41w0gtv
- The knowns and unknowns of neural adaptations to resistance training. bit.ly/3M4FATx
- Comparison of the effects of long-lasting static stretching and hypertrophy training on maximal strength, muscle thickness and flexibility in the plantar flexors [published online ahead of print, bit.ly/3o3zjQ7
- Evidence-Based High-Loading Tendon Exercise for 12 Weeks Leads to Increased Tendon Stiffness and Cross-Sectional Area in Achilles Tendinopathy: A Controlled Clinical Trial. bit.ly/3o8ypBL
- Human tendon adaptation in response to mechanical loading: a systematic review and meta-analysis of exercise intervention studies on healthy adults. bit.ly/42Sb3z9
- Effect of different resistance-training protocols on the extracellular matrix of the calcaneal tendon of rats. bit.ly/3O9Nj5n
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 A Lot Has Changed in 2 Years
00:57 How Did We Get Here?
02:15 Doesn't the Study Explain Everything?
03:27 How Does It All Work?
03:33 Muscle Hypertrophy
04:40 Connective Tissue Thickening
05:53 Tendon Stiffening
07:19 Paying Our Bills :)
08:01 Strength Recruitment
09:40 Connective Tissue Remodeling
11:09 Pain Science
13:13 Other Variables
13:46 What Have We Learned?
15:08 Should You Do This Routine?
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 129
hoopersbeta.com/library/will-hangboarding-2x/day-improve-your-climbing-ultimate-revised-breakdown
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to Mesa Rim North City! Get a 1-Week Pass with free Rental Gear when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk!!
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our amazon storefront where we have all the amazing gear we recommend!: amzn.to/40EaZ56
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
⚠️Block pulls? No hangs? Farmer crimps? Edge lifts? Arm lifts? What the heck are these things called?
Lattice x Yves Video: youtu.be/nhyk765nw-8
Loading Pin (normal length): amzn.to/3H8ypbw
Loading Pin (short): amzn.to/3mSWmN5
Tension Block (non-affiliate): tensionclimbing.com/product/the-block-2
Frictitious Boards (affiliate - support the channel!): bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and Overview
01:04 A brief note about Dan and this video
--PART 1: CONTEXT--
01:49 Background Info: Why are "no hangs" so popular now?
02:44 Relevance: Why should I do this exercise?
07:21 Why this video is freeeeeee!!
--PART 2: BEFORE YOU BEGIN--
08:27 Equipment: What gear should I use?
09:53 Holds: Should I do pinches, pockets, monos, or crimps?
11:20 Edges: What size edge should I use?
11:34 Grip: Which type of grip should I use?
12:09 Bonus: How should I mount the weight?
--PART 3: GETTING STARTED--
13:25 Form: How do I perform no hangs properly?
14:57 Style: Should I do short reps or long holds?
--PART 4: FIRST SESSION--
16:46 Estimate: Should I do the same weight as I do on the hangboard?
18:24 Initial Testing: How do I figure out my working weight?
21:51 Subsequent Sessions: How do I structure future workouts?
--PART 5: PROGRAMMING--
24:27 Session Scheduling: When should I do this?
24:48 Frequency: How often should I do this?
25:16 Long-Term: How long should I do this?
25:56 Bonus: Should I combine this with other finger training?
--PART 6: PROGRESSION--
26:45 Basic Progression: How do I keep improving?
28:38 Advanced Progression: What if basic progression stops working?
31:55 Intuitive Progression: How do I manage real-world variability?
32:53 Outro: Special thanks to Mesa Rim North City!
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 128
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-finger-strength-with-no-hangs
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#fingerstrength #climbingtraining #blockpulls
- SUPER SIMPLE TRAINING LOG (make a copy for yourself): docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qPZ8D3AKa7mvyGboGvM_7AAHhP9_D2ZAXXynpd0hrow/edit?usp=sharing
- MORE COMPLEX LOG: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xnCUIzEAIECWxFuj3kZmhK2mEsZTLrdmUxbGQBc-DHo/edit?usp=sharing
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
- Molecular mechanisms of exercise contributing to tissue regeneration - bit.ly/3zHKNLm
- A Randomized Controlled Trial Comparing Traditional Plaster Cast Rehabilitation With Functional Walking Boot Rehabilitation for Acute Achilles Tendon Ruptures - bit.ly/43dr5Vl
- Muscle and tendon adaptations to moderate load eccentric vs. concentric resistance exercise in young and older males - bit.ly/3ocZdk1
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and Context
00:32 Most common advice for new climbers, ever?
03:09 An excuse/misunderstanding about finger strength
07:54 Your tendons are probably perfectly fine, here's why
09:53 Huge rehab mistake
11:28 One of the most costly training mistakes climbers make
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 127
hoopersbeta.com/library/inaccurate-climbing-advice-i-hear-every-day-even-from-pros
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
tendon anatomy: Laboratoires Servier, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our Amazon storefront where we have all the amazing gear we recommend!: amzn.to/40EaZ56
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Preview and Intro
00:32 Climb 1: Fatigue and "high angle" grip positions
01:09 Climb 1: Lesson 1
02:35 Climb 1: Lesson 1 DEMO
03:07 Climb 1: Lesson 2
04:21 Climb 1: Lesson 2 DEMO
05:20 Climb 1: Lesson 3
06:00 Climb 1: Lesson 3 DEMO
06:25 Climb 1: Lesson 4
07:28 Climb 1: Lesson 5
08:00 Climb 2: Efficiency and body position for tall climbers
08:32 Climb 2: Lesson 1
09:31 Climb 2: Lesson 2
10:41 Climb 2: Lesson 2 DEMO
11:40 Climb 3: Shoulder control and compromised body positions
12:11 Climb 3: Lesson 1
13:53 Climb 3: Lesson 2
15:13 Climb 3: Lesson 3
16:25 Climb 3: Lesson 3 DEMO
17:41 Climb 3: Lesson 4
19:14 Climb 3: Lesson 4 DEMO
22:40 Climb 4: Heel hook compensations and punting
23:37 Climb 4: Lesson 1
24:47 Climb 4: Lesson 1 DEMO
25:37 Climb 4: Lesson 2
26:46 Climb 4: Lesson 3
28:37 Climb 5: 4'10" climber and assessing hold choice
29:10 Climb 5: Lesson 1
32:08 Outro
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 126
hoopersbeta.com/library/identifying-5-climbing-fails-then-demonstrating-how-to-fix-them
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Hooper's Beta Amazon Storefront: amzn.to/3yQtqHD
-- Has links to our favorite climbing shoes, chalk, and loads of awesome rehab tools!
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Videos mentioned:
Core Strength vs. Body Tension (Ep. 123): youtu.be/jwyd40EBnlI
⚡ AFFILIATE STORE (support free content on this channel and even get discounts!): hoopersbeta.com/store
🤚$10 off Tindeq: https://rb.gy/q0ccw
📱20% off KAYA PRO: app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
🌲 REI affiliate link (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym & Mesa Rim North City!
- The Wall: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00:00 Intro and Overview
00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice
00:02:06 Upper Body: Vertical Pull (Anatomy)
00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance
00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations
00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo
00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: "Bad" Form
00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression
00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range
00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note
00:10:30 Upper Body: Horizontal Pull (Anatomy)
00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance
00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation
00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo
00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression
00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range
00:21:30 Upper Body: Shoulder External Rotation (Anatomy)
00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance
00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation
00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo
00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression
00:30:25 Upper Body: Compression (Anatomy)
00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance
00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation
00:33:47 Upper Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance
00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation
00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo
00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations
00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range
00:42:23 Upper Body: Fingers, Hands, Wrist (Anatomy)
00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance
00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations
00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression
00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started
00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form
00:51:59 Lower Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance
00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo
00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression
00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression
00:55:43 Lower Body: Pull (Anatomy)
00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance
00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo
00:57:27 Lower Body: Toe Hook (Anatomy)
00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations
00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo
01:00:25 Lower Body: Heel Hook (Anatomy)
01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations
01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo
01:05:52 Lower Body: Hip Abduction & Adduction (Anatomy)
01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance
01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo
01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 125
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-train-for-climbing-full-body-guide
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomy Images (WikiCommons): Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
FHL, gastrocnemius, peroneals, tibialis: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Quads: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia Commons
Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle and Toe Extensors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle Movement: Connexions, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
VIDEO LINKS:
- How to Fix Lumbrical Pain (Lumbrical Injury, Pocket Climbing Injury) - bit.ly/410SE2W
- What Climbers Should Know About Lumbricals (STRANGE Hand Muscles) - bit.ly/3Z6o727
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
The original "Top 12 Worst Exercises" video: youtu.be/GkBSx6iBqSM
THANK YOU to Tom Randall @WideBoyz and the Lattice crew @LatticeTraining well as @EmilAbrahamsson lending your time and knowledge for this video!
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context and Overview
00:41 Anatomy and What People Think These Exercises Do
02:21 Coach's Recommendations (Tom Randall / Lattice)
05:55 V14/15 Climber's Recommendations (Emil Abrahamsson)
09:09 Jason's Breakdown of These Exercises for Climbers
11:39 How to Deadlift with Michael Gaspari, DPT
14:28 Deadlift Reps/Sets Recommendations
15:22 How to Bench Press
19:02 Bench Press Reps/Sets Recommendations
19:55 Closing Statements
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 124
hoopersbeta.com/library/deadlift-and-benchpress-for-climbers-collaboration-with-lattice-and-emil
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
- Shouting strengthens maximal voluntary force and is associated with augmented pupillary dilation - bit.ly/3CXe8Dv
- Grunting in tennis increases ball velocity but not oxygen cost - bit.ly/3XFI6Ea
- Grunting's competitive advantage: Considerations of force and distraction - bit.ly/3XEkQq0
- Vocal disinhibition (grunting) does not increase dead lift force in college athletes or nonathletes - bit.ly/3CXoZ06
- The effects of "grunting" on serve and forehand velocities in collegiate tennis players - bit.ly/3XHhOBn
- The Effects of Forced Exhalation and Inhalation, Grunting, and Valsalva Maneuver on Forehand Force in Collegiate Tennis Players - bit.ly/3w8M6RR
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
AG1 by Athletic Greens is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your body’s nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! It’s packed with 75 vitamins, minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
1 - Core Stability Training for Injury prevention - bit.ly/2TiNigt
2 - Core Stability Exercise Principles. Current Sports Medicine Reports - bit.ly/3X7n9C5
3 - Effects of core strength training on core stability - bit.ly/3kcE3AG
4 - Core strengthening - bit.ly/3IGIBcI
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context and Setup
00:57 Mistake #1: Definition Problems
02:23 Why We Can Make These Videos Free for Everyone
03:34 Mistake #2: Strength is Not the Whole Story
05:43 Mistake #3: Where Body Tension Actually Comes From
06:49 Mistake #4: Working Against Yourself
08:45 Training Core Strength
09:40 Training Body Tension
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 123
hoopersbeta.com/library/are-climbers-wasting-their-time-training-core-a-measured-argument
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Vectors by Vecteezy
vecteezy.com/free-vector/[conversation, dictionary, flex, abs, tired, pyramid, confused, lost, missed-target, hourglass, weak-man, split, wrong-way, full-battery, zap]
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a two-man team, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
http://DrinkLMNT.com/HOOPERSBETA to get your free sample pack with any purchase.
🔗 LINKS to website, show notes, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⚕️PT CONSULTS W/ JASON (virtual and in-person): hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 COACHING W/ DAN BEALL (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
🙏 SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
Hydration and muscular performance: does fluid balance affect strength, power and high-intensity endurance - bit.ly/3jqMp7q
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context
00:35 Myth #5: Momentum
02:07 Myth #4: Water, Carbs, Electrolytes
04:01 Myth #3: Training
06:16 Myth #2: Muscle Mass
07:28 Myth #1: Crimping
10:09 What myths should we tackle next?
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 122
hoopersbeta.com/library/debunking-the-5-most-malignant-myths-in-climbing-full-crimp-included
👥 YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
🛒 GEAR WE USE (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
📧 For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
In-person or virtual consults with Jason: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
For instructions on how to redeem the code, see this doc: bit.ly/3hYmHGK
🧗 For individual coaching/training with Dan, email danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or visit testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
🔗 Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the *Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers* by subscribing and sharing this video with friends!
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
In-person or virtual consults with Jason: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro
00:15 When to shift from a heel to a toe
01:07 The difference between effective and ineffective training
02:03 Position your body before moving your hands
03:22 Demonstration: The difference between easy and hard is often tiny
04:47 How to use this as actionable advice
05:31 How to get "unstuck" from sidepulls (hip flick)
07:09 Don't pull STRAIGHT to the next hold
08:46 Instagram, 8a, Mountain Project, and guidebooks all in one
09:40 Rows for climbers and how to engage a better drop knee
10:23 "Basically never" use a drop knee this way
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 121
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-make-hard-climbing-moves-feel-easy-move-your-knee
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
In-person or virtual consults with Jason: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
ROSS'S CHANNEL: @Ross-Fulkerson
ANNA'S CHANNEL: @AnnaHazelnutt
Cameo from DAN BEALL: testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
FRICTITIOUS Hangboards and Mobile Boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
Test Scores: 40=9c, 39=9b+, 38=9b, 37=9b, 36=9a+, 35=9a+, 34=9a, 33=9a, 32=8c+, 31=8c+, 30=8c, 29=8c, 28=8b+, 27=8b+, 26=8b, 25=8b, 24=8a+, 23=8a+, 22=8a, 21=8a, 20=7c+, 19=7c+, 18=7c, 17=7c, 16=7b+, 15=7b+, 14=7b, 13=7b, 12=7a+, 11=7a+, 10=7a, 9=7a, 8=6c+, 7=6c+, 6=6c, 5=6c, 4=6b, 3=6b, 2=6a, 1=6a
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
In-person or virtual consults with Jason: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Context
00:51 Warm-Up and Ross's Advice
01:43 Test 1 - Ultimate Finger Strength Test?
06:51 Test 2 - Ultimate Pullup Test?
10:53 Test 3 - Ultimate Core Strength Test?
13:44 Test 4 - Ultimate Endurance Test?
18:21 Results - Is the Test Accurate?
19:15 Key Takeaways and Conclusions
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 120
hoopersbeta.com/library/can-the-ultimate-climbing-test-really-reveal-your-biggest-weakness
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
hoopersbeta.com/library
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
// AG1 by Athletic Greens is a comprehensive, all-in-one nutrition drink engineered to fill the nutritional gaps in your diet and support your body’s nutritional needs across four pillars of health: Gut health, Immune support, Energy and Recovery! It’s packed with 75 vitamins minerals, whole-food sourced ingredients and combines the perfect amount of micronutrients, absorption and taste to jumpstart your daily routine. AG1 is available in the US, Canada, UK and Europe.
// FULL LENGTH VIDS REFERENCED IN THIS VIDEO //
Before You Start Hangboarding: youtu.be/luL6LN5ALdo
Hip Mobility: youtu.be/f86QMiSMaZ4
Hip Mobility Yoga Routine: youtu.be/VZ7PuJR_e6Y
Lumbricals: youtu.be/lKuidJ9QTMU
Lower Traps: youtu.be/-_2_1hOfL00
Hamstring Injuries and Strengthening: youtu.be/wmeas5-mrFw
// LINKS to our website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Why This Matters
00:26 #10: For safety on pocket holds
01:10 #9: For improving toe hook strength
01:49 #8: For holding slopers without pain
02:32 #7: For standing on tiny foot holds
03:15 #6: For feeling better on camping trips
04:26 The Real #6: Heel hook strength and safety
05:07 #5: For better body tension and control
06:03 #4: For strong healthy shoulders
06:44 #3: For better high feet and heel hooks
07:43 #2: For ripping holds off the wall
08:31 #1: For climbing better
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 119
hoopersbeta.com/library/top-10-undertrained-muscles-in-rock-climbers-niche-to-game-changing
Key Points: Lumbricals (hand muscles used for strength and safety on pockets), Anterior Tibialis (ankle dorsiflexor for toe hooks), Wrists (wrist flexors and extensors for wrist stability on slopers), Flexor Hallucis Longus (big toe flexor for toeing down on small holds and pulling with our toes), Hamstrings (for heel hooks and overhangs), Lower Trapezius (for scapular retraction and overall shoulder health), Hips (various muscles for open hip mobility and high step ability, including the hamstrings, glutes, hip adductors), Shoulder External Rotators (infraspinatus and teres minor externally rotate the shoulder which is a common position in climbing), Flexor Digitorum Profundus (primary finger flexor that enables us to hold onto everything, yet gets ignored sometimes)
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Tibialis Anterior: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS), CC BY-SA 2.1 JP
Flexor Hallucis Longus: Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA 4.0
Glutes: Original by sv:Användare:Chrizz, 30 maj 2005, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hip Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0
Hip Flexors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0
Quadriceps: The original uploader was יוסי הראשון at Hebrew Wikipedia., CC BY-SA 3.0
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
With a cameo from @AnnaHazelnutt !
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
Flexor tendon injury: youtu.be/ub_ttbKcGvc
Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
Nonoperative Treatment of Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Sport Climbers-A Retrospective Descriptive Study Based on a Clinical 10-Year Database: bit.ly/3BdXoGp
Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review bit.ly/3SB7MyV
Efficacy of corticosteroid injection in rock climber's tenosynovitis bit.ly/3rRGQjm
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 118
hoopersbeta.com/library/flexor-tenosynovitis
Key Points: Flexor Tenosynovitis vs A2 Pulley Injury, How to Diagnose Tenosynovitis, How to Treat Tenosynovitis, Corticosteroid Injection, Finger Pain from Climbing, Pulley Pain
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// RESEARCH CITATIONS //
The thumb during the crimp grip - bit.ly/3hfGO2B
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
Be sure to mention Hooper's Beta to knock down that day price from $20 to $15!
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
// DAN’S COACHING INFO //
www.testpiececlimbing.com/schedule-dan
danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
&
@EmilAbrahamsson (for letting us use his footage of Off the Wagon!)
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro
00:16 How to maximize friction/force on holds
01:12 How to stand on volumes so you don't slip
02:21 Long-term and INSTANT hip flexion gains
03:26 Why newer climbers push themselves off the wall
04:32 When technique hasn't caught up to strength...
05:56 Drop knees can work against you
07:28 Emil Abrahamsson on Off the Wagon V14/8B+
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 117
hoopersbeta.com/library/why-your-strength-isnt-transferring-to-climbing-fix-these-mistakes
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
If you're in the SD area, be sure to check out The Wall Climbing Gym and mention Hooper's Beta to knock that day price down from $20 to $15!
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/3yM0Jv1
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy
For business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail.com
👍 Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Information for Climbers by liking this video and sharing it with your friends.
A special thanks and shoutout to Anna Hazelnutt for joining us in this video!
- Follow her on IG @annahazelnutt or on her YouTube channel youtube.com/c/annahazelnutt
// OUR WEBSITE //
In-depth rehab and training articles: hoopersbeta.com
// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
// YOUTUBE MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
youtube.com/channel/UCsqZk5V2d44TNLRFSI5aVfg/join
🛒 GEAR WE RECOMMEND (AFFILIATE LINKS)
- Our affiliate store: hoopersbeta.com/store
- Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Hangboards and mobile boards: bit.ly/4aiLYB0
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Best chalk: amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- Favorite on-the-go food: bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: amzn.to/3OHjNB3
- Crane scale: amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells: amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- MFD/cupping set: amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: amzn.to/3ttN88F
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 116
hoopersbeta.com/library/top-12-worst-exercises-for-climbers-that-everyone-does
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Boxing bell: Benboncan at freesound.org/s/66951
Shoulder: The Joint Clinic, CC BY-SA 4.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Calf muscles: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en via Wikimedia Commons
// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: thewallclimbinggym.com
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
Kettlebell Swing, Kettlebell Snatch, Deadlift, Bench Press, Single Arm External Rotation, Bicep Curl, Situps, Crunches, High Row, Plank, Behind the Neck Overhead Press, Shoulder Shrug, Tricep Dip, Upright Row
#trainclimbsendrepeat #doctorofphysicaltherapy @AnnaHazelnutt