Kevin Sews
How I join elastic ends without overlapping the ends Read the description for more help.
updated
Please let me know how it sounds on your device.
Thank you!
FAIRGATE Vary Form (French Curve Ruler) 24in Long (Model No. 12-124): amzn.to/36zdcoK
Fairgate Fashion Designer Rule Kit in Cm (15-202): amzn.to/3jb1dCE
Lance FC-1 French Curve 9 Inch (the small smoke colored curved ruler I showed): amzn.to/3pF3FUt
Dritz Styling Design Ruler: amzn.to/2MsRWtZ
UPDATE! The Blue Tinted Ruler I showed evidently is now available. You can buy it here: apparelartsproductions.com/product-page/pattern-drafting-curve
Pattern Drafting Paper I use: amzn.to/3cy9P56
Here is another good option:
Bee Paper White Sketch and Trace Roll, 24-Inch by 50-Yards amzn.to/3tlGOQ3
Mechanical Pencil: amzn.to/3tloKp8
In this quick video I demonstrate my technique for removing the top loading bobbin cover. I was encouraged to create this video after another sewer saw me use it. I hope you find it helpful.
If you don't already own a set of Wonder Clips I highly recommend them over using pins.
Here is an Amazon Affiliate Link to the product:
amzn.to/2YeKRze
Here is the link to the foot pedal: sewingpartsonline.com/foot-control-and-cord-singer-359102-001.aspx
I hope this will help those of you who are considering purchasing this machine
Here is the link to the overcast foot I mentioned: sewingpartsonline.com/overcast-foot-singer? I highly recommend getting one for your machine.
SIDE NOTE: Also view the technique we use to keep the original hem by watching this excellent video: youtu.be/eQ8CMCLS5rY Combine the info I've provided here with this technique to be successful using either technique.
I've received numerous messages from new sewers that bought an entry level sewing machine and tried to hem their jeans without success. I decided to create this video to give them some tips on how to succeed if their machine really struggles to hem jeans.
I am using the Baby Lock BL9 (now named the Joy) mechanical sewing machine in this video. babylock.com/machines/sewing/joy which I bought on sale for $99. I recommend it highly as it has an all metal frame and is very tough little machine for the price. It is a great entry level machine as well. I sew on industrial machines daily, but I still use my little BL9 when I am not at my shop.
I show the correct needles and thread to use, along with techniques to help the home sewer that has tried hemming a pair of retail jeans and failed for various reasons. It is my hope that my tips will lead to your success at getting the professional look you want.
Don't be afraid to try a smaller needle if your machine struggles with a larger needle. Sometimes this reverse logic can address an issue of a machine having problems with a size 16 or larger needle. A smaller needle fits through a tighter space theory may apply.
The tension will vary on each machine. However, on all the home machines I've tested it is generally very close to the highest setting, which was 8 out of 9.
The stitch length I used was 3.5, but don't be afraid to go with a 4.0 stitch length on the heavier threads.
If you want your new hem to better match the original quickly, then rough it up using some sandpaper or a sanding block. You can also mix a small amount of bleach in a cup of water - like a tablespoon of bleach. Rub it along the hem area using a q-tip or cotton tip stick. Give it a minute to absorb then rinse under cold water to remove all the bleach. Throw them in the washer and repeat until you get the faded look on the hem line you desire.
Please note that the BL9 (now named the Babylock Joy) will actually sew over the seams without my help of turning the hand wheel. However, it does NOT keep the seam in line when doing so. I find this to be the case for all home machines. Therefore, I show you how to go about getting a nice straight hem on a home machine from a non sewing expert point of view.
Here is a link to the presser foot spacers I mention in the video (since jeans come in so many different thickness now I highly recommend these): ( Update Jan 2018 - Company is no longer in business. I removed the link since it is no longer a working link.)
My Amazon Affiliate Links Below:
Here is the jean-a-ma-jig I show in the video:
amzn.to/2RUnebb
Link to the Seam Guide Magnet:
amzn.to/3e1l0k1
Coats and Clark Tex 60 Jeans Hem Thread (I have used it and recommend it too if you don't want a large spool of thread):
amzn.to/2ClBVhQ
Tex 60 750 yds Jean Thread:
amzn.to/2CmmWEy
(Note! Wawak no longer carries the thread I used in this video)
This is one of my favorite threads for domestic machines:
Gutermann Jeans Thread 100m Gold, 1870:
amzn.to/2EEWRDB
For the thread and needles simple go on Amazon and search for "Jeans Thread" and "Denim Needles". A 30 weight thread is suggested. Top Stitching Thread is also good.
I recommend getting size 14,16 and 18 denim needles. This will give you the option to use the smallest needle based on your denim type and your sewing machine model.
Schmetz Size 14 Denim Needles:
amzn.to/2RSthNc
Schmetz Size 16 Denim Needles:
amzn.to/2CQKIto
Schmetz Size 18 Denim Needles:
amzn.to/2CPiRd2
(Links last verified on 8/31/22. Please let me know if your find any that are invalid);
Let me know if I can be of any further assistance to you and please share any tips you discover in your attempt to successfully hem your jeans.
In this video I will show you how to adjust the timing. This included adjusting the hook and the needle height. This video ended up being a lot longer than I had anticipated. However, I wanted to show the complete steps I go through when setting the timing, which includes greasing and oiling and cleaning out the bobbin area.
Here is a link to download the Singer Heavy Duty Service Manual: http://www.kevinsews.com/download/SingerHeavyDutyServiceManul.pdf
Amazon Affiliate Links Below for Tools & Products to consider:
Straight Screwdriver: amzn.to/3dqTPPc
SITAKE 3pcs Offset Screwdriver Set amzn.to/2NjR33C
Mini ultra short screwdriver: amzn.to/2YjQaOO
Tri-Flow TF23004 Clear Synthetic Grease : amzn.to/3eiMClz
Sewing Machine Oil: amzn.to/2BqLAW4
Feeler Gauge Set: amzn.to/3elEdhm
Hex Set that includes what you'll need: amzn.to/2VAFXvA
WD-40 Specialist Industrial-Strength Cleaner & Degreaser: amzn.to/2YUPZZn
Here is a link to download the Singer Heavy Duty Service Manual: http://www.kevinsews.com/download/SingerHeavyDutyServiceManul.pdf
I took the Singer Heavy Duty covers off and removed the bobbin assembly in order to clean and oil this 5 year old machine. It was making a clicking kind of noise so I knew this was needed in order to fix it. What I found was a lot of thread/fabric dust down where the bobbin shaft connect to the bobbin. I also took the time to show how to adjust the thread tension while it was easy to demonstrate. I hope this is helpful to the folks that asked how to address this issue. My next video will cover how I clean and oil the machine; set the bobbin timing (this will address many questions on this subject) and assemble it back together.
Amazon Affiliate Links Below for Products to consider:
Straight Screw Driver: amzn.to/3dqTPPc
SITAKE 3pcs Offset Screwdriver Set amzn.to/2NjR33C
Mini ultra short screwdriver: amzn.to/2YjQaOO
Tri-Flow TF23004 Clear Synthetic Grease : amzn.to/3eiMClz
Sewing Machine Oil: amzn.to/2BqLAW4
Feeler Gauge Set: amzn.to/3elEdhm
Torx Set that includes what you'll need: amzn.to/2VAFXvA
WD-40 Specialist Industrial-Strength Cleaner & Degreaser: amzn.to/2YUPZZn
I looked and the zipper I am using is a #5 invisible zipper.
I buy my zippers from The Zipper Lady at http://www.thezipperlady.com
Feel free to contact her if you have any questions on exactly which zipper you require for your project. She has always been helpful when I've contacted her on my projects. Plus, she has a wide selection of zippers.
PLEASE NOTE! This could possibly VOID your warranty. And since you are dealing with electricity then do so at your own risk as making a mistake can injure or it could even KILL YOU. You will want to UNPLUG YOUR machine before making any changes.
I reached out to Sewing Parts Online to find out which foot pedal they offered that allowed you to slow down the speed using the technique I presented in this video. If you order it please let us all know the results. Here is a link to it: [I removed the link - see note below]
UPDATE: I ordered this pedal and it DID NOT have the ability to adjust the speed.
Sorry for my sloppy clothing. I was recording this just before bedtime as often that is when I have time to create these videos after being asking by something that is having an issue. Hopefully, you will find it of some use.
Let me know if you have any questions.
In this video I do my classic Levi's Jeans hem test. I also test some heavy home deco fabric. Please let me know if you have any questions.
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PLEASE READ all of my notes and corrections below before viewing this video. I've corrected a few errors I made when recording it. Click "Show More" to view all of my comments.
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Amazon Affiliate Links:
Singer 4423: amzn.to/2pZtoKm
Singer 4411: amzn.to/2CpTDRD
(No cost to you when you use the above links, but I make a small amount of commision when you use them. Thanks you!
This video is for the new sewer. It is a complete 1 hour video that covers threading the Singer Heavy Duty (Classic 44S in this video). I also go through the various needles and their uses. I then show you an example of thread tension control, along with using the optional overcast foot with the overcast (serged) stitch offered by all the Singer Heavy Duty machines. It is slow paced in order to get the new sewer up and running successfully. If you are the ADD type then this video might not be for you.
MY ERRORS:
I noticed the thread cap I placed over the spool of thread was on backwards in this video. Sorry, I wasn't paying close attention as I always use industrial spools of thread on external stands. The wide part of the cap should be closest to the spool. In other words reverse it from the way you see it placed on this video.
Also, I should NOT have placed the thread I used in winding the bobbin on the horizontal spool - it should have been placed on the vertical post. Only cross wound threads should be placed on the horizontal spool holder. Please take a look at this very important video by Dr. Bob of Superior Threads to understand why:
http://youtu.be/PnO5K6AA2sY
I state in the video that this machine has a 1 amp motor. They actually have a 0.7 amp motor. Sorry for the mistake!
I misspoke on the pressure on the presser foot issue. Turn it to the left for lighter fabric and to the right for heavier fabrics is the general rule.
If you decide to buy the Singer Classic Heavy Duty Sewing Machine sold by Walmart I would suggest you pick up their 2 year warranty. It cost around $15 and is well worth the investment. I used their warranty on a machine I bought there and it was very easy to execute. Simply register your machine warranty with them after buying your machine. If you need service they email you a UPS label. Simply drop it off at your local UPS store and they will post the progress of your repair online. Once the machine is repaired they send it back via UPS at no change. Shipping alone cost more than the extended warranty.
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The high quality scissors I refer to in the video are made by Kia.
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An Excellent Articled by Superior Threads on the Types of Needles and their uses: superiorthreads.com/education-using-the-right-needle
UPDATE!
After I created this I discovered somebody else had posted the Singer Training DVD that was included in their machine. None of my Heavy Duty Machines included it, but it is very useful, so be sure and check them out as well. Here are the links to the 2 parts:
Part 1: http://youtu.be/AGtuU9TsFLg
Part 2: http://youtu.be/VH_oBjfwdZQ
Singer USA's video playlist:
youtube.com/watch?v=QkiHiYmoFVc&list=PLU0Ss9R9BU3UinBK-S9RNomXjJD_YQz15
Singer in Ozland created a DVD for their country. It is worth checking out:
youtu.be/mShQ9bstA8A
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Amazon affiliate links provided below:
Tailors Pressing Clapper: amzn.to/2Tz6jvw
Gravity Feed Iron (This is a nice kit): amzn.to/2FFfqrz
I had to remove my link to the ham makers site I mentioned in this video after some reports of people ordered from her and never receiving their order.
Washable Clear School Glue (I buy it on sale for under $2.00 when school is starting up each year): amzn.to/2S94VOO
Sewing Machine I used in this video:
Brother PQ1500SL Sewing Machine I am using: amzn.to/2OXxPiS
Juki Serger I am using: amzn.to/2DDONkg
A newer model found here: amzn.to/2S4ZpMR
Juki MCS1500 Coverstitch Machine: amzn.to/2DQBcXH
The fabric I used is from fabric.com and it is called French Terrycloth. It is wonderful fabric to sew with. It is more dense than your standard knit, so if you are looking for something with a bit more weight then I highly recommend it. Here is a search link to their site to help you find it:
fabric.com/find?SearchText=French+Terry+Knit+
Before we can start the sew along for our men's t-shirt there are a few things we need to go over. I created this video to show the additional pattern pieces and modifications you may need to make to your pattern. Pattern drafting is too complicated for me to cover in this video, so you will need to locate a pattern for your use. I included many links to patterns below for you. I will be creating a shirt for myself, so this is generally for a man's tee. However, you can incorporate some of the techniques in a ladies tee as well. Either way, I hope it is helpful to you.
Affiliate Links:
The ruler I am using in this video: amzn.to/2BcUwvM
Here is the ruler kit I mentioned: amzn.to/2RX0kPt
Here is a nice one too (Fashion Form 3-in-1 Ruler, Cast Acrylic, 24"): amzn.to/2ToaVEO
Non-Affiliate Links:
I am sorry to say I had to remove the link to the fabric that I used in this video since it is no longer available. :(
T-shirt pattern links (if you don't already own one). Please let me know of your favorites too.
Men's Patterns:
lekala.co/catalog/men/tshirts
(You enter your size and they will generate a custom size PDF pattern)
jalie.com/jalie2918-men-s-t-shirts
(I've used this pattern before. It is a very nice pattern)
Ladies Patterns:
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_117.htm
somethingdelightful.com/k3766
(Misses Tee)
simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/brands/new-look/new-look-pattern-6483-misses-tops
(New Look Misses Tee)
somethingdelightful.com/kwik-sew/misses/tops
(New Look Pattern 6543 Misses' Easy Tops. Note! This on includes a bust dart for those of you who are larger in the bust area.)
simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/tops--vests/new-look-pattern-6555-misses-keyhole-shirt
(New Look Pattern 6555 Misses' Keyhole Shirt)
simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/tops--vests/burda-style-pattern-b6477-misses-top
(Burda Style Pattern B6477 Misses' Top)
simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/brands/new-look/new-look-pattern-6483-misses-tops
(New Look Pattern 6483 Misses Tops)
simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/tops--vests/burda-style-pattern-6611-shirt
(Burda Style Pattern 6611 Shirt)
cashmerette.com/collections/cashmerette-patterns/products/concord-tshirt-pdf-pattern
(This one has lots of positive reviews for ladies with larger bust sizes)
Here is a post to 10 independent T-Shirt designers:
http://www.basteandgather.com/blog/top-10-t-shirt-patterns-indie-sewing-pattern-designers
Note that I had the client try on the jacket lining being 1/4 inch shorter before I cut it off. This still left enough slack to expand for comfort. Remember to always try on something before you cut excess fabric off when doing alterations.
Amazon Affiliate Link to this machine: amzn.to/2RQ6SQN
An industrial spool of thread similar to what I am using: amzn.to/2q3a2nm
These are affiliate links I am paid a small commision when you click on the link(s) above. There is no additional cost to you Thank you!
Lots of info included here, such as Stitch Length and Thread links below. Click SHOW MORE to view.
SIDE NOTE: Also view the technique we use to keep the original hem by watching this excellent video: youtu.be/eQ8CMCLS5rY Combine the info I've provided here with this technique to be successful using either technique.
I've received numerous messages from new sewers that bought an entry level sewing machine and tried to hem their jeans without success. I decided to create this video to give them some tips on how to succeed if their machine really struggles to hem jeans.
I am using the Baby Lock BL9 (now named the Joy) mechanical sewing machine in this video. babylock.com/machines/sewing/joy which I bought on sale for $99. I recommend it highly as it has an all metal frame and is very tough little machine for the price. It is a great entry level machine as well. I sew on industrial machines daily, but I still use my little BL9 when I am not at my shop.
I show the correct needles and thread to use, along with techniques to help the home sewer that has tried hemming a pair of retail jeans and failed for various reasons. It is my hope that my tips will lead to your success at getting the professional look you want.
Don't be afraid to try a smaller needle if your machine struggles with a larger needle. Sometimes this reverse logic can address an issue of a machine having problems with a size 16 or larger needle. A smaller needle fits through a tighter space theory may apply.
The tension will vary on each machine. However, on all the home machines I've tested it is generally very close to the highest setting, which was 8 out of 9.
The stitch length I used was 3.5, but don't be afraid to go with a 4.0 stitch length on the heavier threads.
If you want your new hem to better match the original quickly, then rough it up using some sandpaper or a sanding block. You can also mix a small amount of bleach in a cup of water - like a tablespoon of bleach. Rub it along the hem area using a q-tip or cotton tip stick. Give it a minute to absorb then rinse under cold water to remove all the bleach. Throw them in the washer and repeat until you get the faded look on the hem line you desire.
Please note that the BL9 (now named the Babylock Joy) will actually sew over the seams without my help of turning the hand wheel. However, it does NOT keep the seam in line when doing so. I find this to be the case for all home machines. Therefore, I show you how to go about getting a nice straight hem on a home machine from a non sewing expert point of view.
Here is a link to the presser foot spacers I mention in the video (since jeans come in so many different thickness now I highly recommend these): ( Update Jan 2018 - Company is no longer in business. I removed the link since it is no longer a working link.)
My Amazon Affiliate Links Below:
Here is the jean-a-ma-jig I show in the video:
amzn.to/2RUnebb
Link to the Seam Guide Magnet:
amzn.to/3e1l0k1
Coats and Clark Tex 60 Jeans Hem Thread (I have used it and recommend it too if you don't want a large spool of thread):
amzn.to/2ClBVhQ
Tex 60 750 yds Jean Thread:
amzn.to/2CmmWEy
(Note! Wawak no longer carries the thread I used in this video)
This is one of my favorite threads for domestic machines:
Gutermann Jeans Thread 100m Gold, 1870:
amzn.to/2EEWRDB
For the thread and needles simple go on Amazon and search for "Jeans Thread" and "Denim Needles". A 30 weight thread is suggested. Top Stitching Thread is also good.
I recommend getting size 14,16 and 18 denim needles. This will give you the option to use the smallest needle based on your denim type and your sewing machine model.
Schmetz Size 14 Denim Needles:
amzn.to/2RSthNc
Schmetz Size 16 Denim Needles:
amzn.to/2CQKIto
Schmetz Size 18 Denim Needles:
amzn.to/2CPiRd2
(Links last verified on 7/5/20. Please let me know if your find any that are invalid);
Let me know if I can be of any further assistance to you and please share any tips you discover in your attempt to successfully hem your jeans.
How I sew my elastic cut ends together: youtu.be/yt-WjwJuYws
Please note that on some machines due to the wider width of the zigzag your machine may not allow you to simply butt the ends together and sew them together as I show in the video link above. If you find your machine has them problem then simply place some fabric 2 inches wide on the underside of the joined ends of the fabric. Once you've sewn the elastic together you can trim the edges of each end of the fabric if needed.
In this video I show how to sew an elastic waistband with a zigzag stitch or a serger. This is for member of patternreview.com who is having issue keeping the elastic waistbands nice and straight. I am sorry my hands are so dirty looking. I actually washed them, but I had just finished working on my industrial coverstitch machine and it was a oily dirty mess. ;)
Schmetz Denim Needle Size 16
amzn.to/2OdsCIC
Jeans Thread: Txt 24 or T80 use in both the bobbin and needle:
http://www.wawak.com/Jean-Thread?quantity=1&custcol32=Levi%20Gold
The Machine Link:
http://www.eversewn.com/sparrow20
The audio is a bit low and muffled on this. I am working on a better solution for my next video. Stay tuned. ;)
I've been asked it EverSewn provided me this machine for review, so let me address it here. The answer is NO. I emailed them a request for a machine to do a video review, but they never were considerate enough to responded to my request. Meanwhile, you will find they have provided the machines for many of the quilter's here on YouTube. So be aware of those kinds of paid reviews. I've found that many of them never disclose the fact that they were given the machine either. So take what they say with this in mind.
I captured the full 2 hours with all the details. If you have ADD or you are looking for a quick/fast overview then this video is not for you. Otherwise, you may want to watch it a 1.5 or 2.0 speed initially due to the length of the video. See timestamps below. This video is for the beginner sewer who like to see all of the details.
These pants include pockets, an elastic waistband and a pull string. It also includes a separate waistband, which is important if you have more than an inch of drop between the front and back. I personally have a 3 inch drop between my front and back. I've successfully sewed these pants using a custom pattern for people who've had a 19 inch back crotch length and a 13 inch front.
Here is a link to the pocket template: http:///www.kevinsews.com/download/FlannelPJPantsPocket.pdf
To see how I join the elastic refer to this video: youtu.be/yt-WjwJuYws
PJ Pants Pattern Links:
A Free Pattern:
s3.amazonaws.com/tnmarketing/nsc/Cuffed-Pajama-Pants-NSC.PDF
Amazon Has this pattern that looked good:
amazon.com/Look-Sewing-Pattern-Separates-XS-S-M-L-XL/dp/B004RSU0GU
Simplicity 8179 Pattern
amazon.com/Simplicity-Children-Pajama-Sewing-Pattern/dp/B01H80OU5K
ONE UPDATE on the Waistband Width: I updated my pattern to a width of 3.25 inches after I created this video. I found there was a bit less fabric beyond the stitching in the ditch seam line on the inside of the pants. Just make sure you are very accurate in your 1/4" fold over and your placement of the fold like before sewing. The 1/4" fold should land right in the middle of the 1/4" fold area.
Below are the timecodes for each step.
Timecode
----------------------------------------------------
00:00:03 Introduction
00:02:25 Review Pattern Design
00:11:07 Sew Pockets onto Front and Back
00:18:25 Press Pockets
00:24:42 Sew Leg Seams
00:36:08 Press Leg Seams as Sewn
00:39:52 Press Leg Seams Open
00:44:47 Clip Backside Seam at Bottom of Pocket
00:46:25 Serge Pockets
00:48:42 Tack Pockets to Front Side of Pants
00:50:47 Align and Tack Down Crotch Seam
00:57:39 Sew Crotch Seam (twice for reinforcement)
01:10:57 Sew Waistband on to the pants
01:18:53 Press Waistband Seams
01:24:51 Cut and Press Pull String
01:35:04 Sew Button Holes for Pull String Opening
01:40:49 Cut Button Holes Open
01:45:18 Baste Waistband
01:49:19 Stitch in Ditch to finish attaching Waistband
01:55:12 Insert Elastic
02:03:49 Insert Pull String
02:09:41 Hem Pants (Pants Completed!)
Here is a link to the video of me showing how I join the ends of elastic together: youtu.be/yt-WjwJuYws
NOTE! I used Annotations in this video. But Youtube eliminated them in May of 2017. Sorry for that. If you have any questions please let me know.
This video is a bit over 90 minutes in length, so I've included a timecode list for you to reference:
Video Timecode Marks
--------------------------------------------------------------------
00:07 Show Completed Pants
04:22 Prepping and pressing fabric
06:50 Discussing Cut-out Fabric
11:11 Overcasting seams
13:46 Applying Interfacing to Pocket Seam
17:28 Sewing Pockets Front
20:57 Sewing Pockets Back and Tacking to Seams
26:28 Stay Stitching Top of Pants
28:25 Sewing Leg Seams
35:19 Pressing Leg Seams
37:32 Pressing Seams Open Technique
43:07 Prepping Crotch Seam
44:20 Sewing Crotch Seam
51:52 Pressing Crotch Seam
59:25 Pressing Waistband Seams
1:02:29 Sewing Waistband Seams (Front)
1:06:50 Sewing Waistband on to the Pants
1:16:28 Stitching In the Ditch on Waistband Front
1:25:05 Inserting Elastic into Waistband
1:29:47 Attaching Ends of Elastic into Waistband
1:32:39 Hemming and completing Pants
Sewing a curved waistband skirt sans pins. It is all in knowing how to control the fabric. Pinch fabric between your fingers on top and thumb on the bottom and turn you hand up where your thumb is pointing parallel to your chin. This prevents your feed dogs from moving your lower fabric faster than the top. In other words you control your fabric not your machine. ;)
Stitch Length: 4mm.
Top Tension setting: 7.5
An Amazon Affiliate link to the thread I am using:
amzn.to/2CRqNup
I bought this machine because I'd been told by several people that it would be a better choice for a road machine than my current machine, which is the Kenmore 19233. This machine offers a couple of features I sorely miss and they are 1) a knee lift 2) pressure on the presser foot adjustment, and 3) auto thread cutting.
I've had a few reports of people receiving new machines with the bobbin tension being too loose. Be aware that doing this may void your warranty. However, it is an easy fix to do yourself it you wish.,
In this video I'll demonstrate how remove and tighten the bobbin tension. Hopefully, it will eliminate the need for you to return your new machine.
Here is a link to download the service manual: http://www.kevinsews.com/download/SingerHeavyDutyServiceManul.pdf
NOTE! Yes I know the thread was wrapped around the needle when I threaded the machine at the end. Working around a close-up camera shot limits my hand position and viewing angles. In the end I had to tighten the case about 1/8th of a turn in order to get the proper bobbin tension.
I decided to make this video public thinking it may be of some benefit to others.
I use this same technique to ease in a sleeve cap.
Be aware that my pausing to explain what I am doing really lengthens the time it takes me to sew the seam. Without having to pause to do this I could have sewn the complete seam very quickly. Normally, I can have the seam sewed up in the time it takes a person to pin it.
Here is a link to a high shank 6mm flat felled seam foot:
http://www.allbrands.com/products/22760-p60971-6mm-wide-flat-fell-seam-foot-clear-sole-hig
In this video I demonstrate one of the many ways I've sewn a professional flat felled jeans seams (just like the industrial felling machines do) on a home sewing machine. This is for the people that struggle keeping their seams together when sewing them. Using this method should help you get the professional look and seam strength you need on your crotch and inside leg seam on your home sewn jeans.
In the past I've seen the home sewers method of sewing what I call a faux flat felled seam; the one where they have you sew the first seam right sides together then trim method. Technically, this results in an encased seam, but not a true flat felled seam.
I personally never felt this technique taught to home sewers could stand up to the abuse and stress that jeans were originally designed for. I wear jeans daily and they take a lot of abuse. I tried the faux technique on one pair I made and within 2 weeks the threads were showing stress on the seam. Meanwhile, jeans I've sewn using the technique I demo in this video have lasted without any sign of stress on the seam... other than the normal desired aged wearing signs. ;)
If you have a different way of achieving a TRUE flat felled seam then I'd love to hear about it. By true I mean the seams are interlocked and both seams are sewn through all 4 layers of the fabric encasing the raw edges to provide the reinforcement this seam was intended to provide.
After receiving several emails regarding this video let me address a few thing:
1. You can use a fabric glue stick. However, a bottle of Elmer's School Glue was $1.49. Last time I checked the price of a Fabric Glue Stick it cost $2.79 and it was the size of chap stick.
2. You don't have to wait for glue to dry if you hit it with a hot iron. You can take it to your machine and start sewing.


