Tims Retro Corner
Commodore SFD 1001 Drive Teardown and Repair
updated
My ebay store: ebay.co.uk/usr/timsretro
Check out these channels:
Control-Alt-Rees: / @ctrlaltrees
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
00:00 - Introduction
01:02 - Power On Test - Machine 1
01:38 - Power On Test - Machine 2
02:15 - Sponsor Ad
02:53 - Disassemble Number 2
04:35 - Check Voltages
07:04 - Removing the Power Switch
10:09 - Chip Testing in the C16
16:19 - Disassemble Number 1
19:39 - Let’s Use Our Known Working TED…
21:31 - Diag264: You’re Up!
28:08 - RAM Tests
32:10 - Diag Test with New RAM
Links for this video:
Project Github page: github.com/AndersBNielsen/Relatively-Universal-ROM-Programmer
Firestarter Githup page: github.com/henols/firestarter_app
The Vpp voltage divider mod video: youtube.com/watch?v=ydVQS5m5d7I
The EPROM device list: ctrl-alt-rees.com/2022-07-03-eprom-device-id-list.html
My ebay page (buy one of my spares): ebay.co.uk/usr/timsretro
Anders Nielsen's store (EU/US): https://www.imania.dk/samlesaet-hobbyelektronik-og-ic-er.htm
Check out these channels:
Control-Alt-Rees: / @ctrlaltrees
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
00:00 - Introduction
01:02 - Components
01:51 - Soldering the Connectors
02:55 - Top Side Connectors
05:04 - ZIF Socket
06:18 - Setting the Pin Headers
07:23 - Put Tape On The USB Socket
13:26 - A New Arduino
15:28 - Connecting to the Computer
17:56 - Introducing the Software
19:21 - Installing Homebrew
20:54 - Installing AVRDUDE
21:35 - Installing FireStarter
22:12 - Running Firestarter
22:46 - Checking Voltages
24:09 - Configuration
25:36 - Reading an EPROM
30:29 - Blank Check
31:47 - Writing an EPROM
33:18 - EPROM ID List
38:09 - Wrap up
Oh, and I got a microscope so I can see what I'm doing. It's not one of those cutesy all-in-one jobs, but rather it's an Ali Express special, where the parts are separate...
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Join the Discord: discord.gg/q37TbgRW
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
So now I have to figure out exactly what got fried, and fix it. And hope it costs less in replacement chips than I paid for the machine in the first place (spoiler: it's a close-run thing...)
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
The Commodore 64 is so much more than a games machine.
I recently bought a batch of 6532 RIOT chips to use in another project. (RIOT - RAM I/O Timer. Think of it as similar to the C64's 6526 CIA, but with added RAM), and needed a way to test them. Not being able to afford the likes of the Retro Chip Tester Pro. Surely I could design a cartridge to take a 6532, and then write a program to test it? In BASIC even?
Watch and find out!
Big shout of thanks to André Fachat, John Riney, and other on Big Herd's Discord, for help with this project. Check out André's you tube channel: @8bittimes
C64 cartridge proto board: pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Commodore_64_Expansion_Port_Cartridge_Project_Development_PCB_85ba470a.html
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Jess B's Tech Department / @techdept
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
00:00 - Introduction
00:55 - What Is a 6532?
03:15 - Using A Cartridge
06:27 - 6532 Description
18:29 - FIRST POWER-ON TEST
22:21 - Put a Chip In It
29:36 - PCBs
32:30 - Yellow PCB Test
35:51 - It’s Dead, Jim!
39:26 - TIMER
51:07 - Scoping the R/W Line
52:27 - Read/Write Buffer
54:46 - Re-Checking the Flip-Flop
57:30 - One Last Thing
I finally got a 'Breadbin' Commodore 64, and I got it from fellow YouTuber, Glen at @CRG
Let's check it out, make sure it works, and maybe do a few mods...
Modulator replacement Git Repository: github.com/mbarszcz-pcb/c64-rf-modulator-replacement
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
00:00 - Introduction
01:15 - Disassembly Inspection
04:34 - Switching It On
05:56 - Ad
06:48 - Diagnostic Cart
16:48 - The Infamous Desoldering Montage
20:37 - Modulator Replacement
32:33 - Final Thoughts and Outtakes
The C16 was a cut down version of Commodore's Plus/4 TED 'business' computer. It didn't have the (admittedly not very good) business software suite that came in an internal ROM, it only had 16K of RAM, not 64 (only 12K usable) , and it had a rebadged Commodore 64 case instead of the more sci-fi looks of the Plus/4. But it was cheap, and that made it a big hit for sure in parts of Europe.
The lack of a Function ROM can be argued as no big loss. But the memory... let's just say there's no such thing as 'too much memory'.
Thanks to Tynemouth for providing the expansion free of charge. Now, while I am a Patron, this is still my unbiased commentary, and Tynemouth have had no say in the content, nor have they seen or approved this video in advance.
Tynemouth's blog post on the 64K expansion: http://blog.tynemouthsoftware.co.uk/2024/06/new-commodore-16-internal-64k-ram-upgrade.html
Buy one: sellmyretro.com/offer/details/64324
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Jess B's Tech Department / @techdept
00:00 - Introduction
00:29 - Unboxing
02:39 - C16 - A Look Inside
03:36 - Figuring Out the Board
05:23 - Desoldering Montage
06:55 - Put Sockets In
08:13 - Fly Leads
09:08 - Soldering Montage
09:57 - Let’s Fit It
11:08 - Hook Up the Wires
12:01 - Testing
13:22 - App Time
15:54 - Put the Machine Back Together
16:57 - Jumper Settings
PCBWay Shared project: pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Commodore_1551_Drive_Cartridge_Replacement_90f9bc66.html
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Jess B's Tech Department / @techdept
A technique I've used before on the Commodore 64 and VIC-20 is the 'NOP Tester'. Essentially this is a ROM replacement that hardwires the data bus to 'NOP', which moves the CPU to the next address. This will cycle through every address, which can be measured.
Sure it's a quick and dirty test, and in no way comprehensive. But can I build a NOP tester and test this batch of 6507s?
Let's find out...
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Jess B's Tech Department / @techdept
Amstrad's second generation "laptop" was basically a full blown 286 PC in a luggable laptop body. It had a 20MB hard drive, 3.5" floppy, 1MB memory (expandable to 4), an internal VGA card, 800 x 600 x 16 shades monochrome LCD panel, and even an ISA expansion slot. Oh, and it doubles as a 7Kg dumbbell for weight training.
So, I thought where better to start my MS-DOS adventure? But is this not so little machine a gem, or a pile of junk?
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Jess B's Tech Department / @techdept
The Iomega Zip drive was released a year after Commodore went bust, and for a brief few years it was the best, cheapest way to access large amounts of removable storage. Despite the Amiga's parallel port being incompatible with the drive, we're gonna hook one up and get it working!
PCBWay Shared Projects:
pcbway.com/project/shareproject/W51017ASR27_Gerber_Parallel_ZIP_Adapter.html
pcbway.com/project/shareproject/_IOAMIGA_Amiga_to_Iomega_ZIP_100_24b295ee.html
@hackbuildrestore has a video on his pcb: youtube.com/watch?v=OmjO12MW9Nk
Downloads:
PPAZip: aminet.net/package/docs/hard/ppazip
ADF Opus: adfopus.sourceforge.net
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Jess B's Tech Department / @techdept
00:00 - Introduction
04:31 - Building the Adapter
10:46 - Downloading the Drivers
14:10 - Installing the Drivers
19:26 - Running The Zip Drive
23:31 - Next Steps
24:41 - Reading the Zip Disc on a modern Mac
26:14 - Summing Up
f you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Jess B's Tech Department / @techdept
00:00 - Start
01:11 - Teardown
04:52 - Trying It Out
06:25 - PCBWay
07:13 - Cleaning
10:20 - VapourBrighting
11:54 - Recapping
16:36 - Fitting the new capacitors
20:41 - Trying the Recapped Board
22:59 - Retrobright Results
26:48 - Does It Still Work?
29:39 - Refit the Hard Drive
31:30 - Installing Workbench… Take 1
38:02 - … Take 359 …
41:00 - So Here’s What I Did
So in this part 2 video we are going to get to the bottom of what's wrong with my 1581 builds, figure out what doesn't work, and what does, and why, and how to fix it.
We're gonna start with a big stack of drive mechanisms....
SFD-321B to Amiga drive mod: http://jope.fi/drives/sfd321b-lcp3/
Badgeman case stickers: retro8bitshop.com/retrostore/badgeman
Github page for the floppy adapter I built in this video: github.com/gianlucarenzi/AmigaPCDriveAdapter
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Alices Retro Wonderland: / @Alices.Retro.Wonderland
00:00:00 - Introduction
00:03:40 - Baseline Tests
00:05:52 - Drive 1 - SFD321B
00:08:14 - Drive 2 - Techmedia TFD310
00:10:18 - Drive 3 - NEC FD1321T
00:11:44 - Drive 4 - SONY MPF920
00:13:05 - Drive 5 - SAMSUNG SFD-321B #2
00:15:07 - Drive 6 - CHINON FB-354
00:16:35 - Drive 7 - TEAC
00:18:01 - Drive 8 - CHINON
00:19:32 - Drive 9 - SAMSUNG SFD-321B #3
00:20:54 - Baseline Test Results
00:25:03 - Building a Different Adaptor Board - PCBWay
00:35:10 - Comparing Adapter Schematics
00:38:33 - Scoping Pin 34 - Tom’s Hardware Adapter
00:42:01 - Pin 34 On the Yellow Board
00:44:41 - Interface wired up correctly this time…
00:48:25 - Presentation of initial results
00:52:57 - C5 Cap Fix
01:02:39 - Testing Amiga Converted Drives
01:04:19 - Drive #5 as an Amiga Drive
01:06:46 - The Infamous Drive 9, modified
01:09:54 - If converting an SFD-321B works, why doesn’t the adapter?
01:13:34 - Testing the Modded Adapter
01:20:28 - Badges
01:21:54 - Coda: another SFD-321B
01:26:58 - Summary
Now, although I'd seen Ataris in the shops ever since the 400 and 800 came out, I didn't know much about them and I'd certainly never used or owned one.
Enter the 65XE, This is Tramiel-era Atari. A cost-reduced version of the already cost-reduced 800XL, in a move I guess designed to out-Commodore Commodore.
So when I got hold of one, I decided to check it over, clean it, retrobright it, and so on. What could possibly go wrong? Well actually it turns out, quite a lot...
The 1551 was Commodore's attempt at making a parallel disk drive for the TED series computers. Unfortunately it was tied to the TED machines by specific hardware, so it never got wide adoption.
I got this example "untested" (ie broken) in a job lot, and in this video I'm going to try and get it working.
But what do you do when the only dead IC is one that is completely unavailable? Watch to find out...
Commodore History's benchmark video: youtube.com/watch?v=7SPr5S0eEYM
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Alices Retro Wonderland: / @Alices.Retro.Wonderland
00:00:00 - Introduction
00:01:23 - Teardown
00:04:09 - Fixing the Door Latch
00:08:22 - Inside the Paddle
00:09:47 - Power itUp
00:13:50 - A Test Program Off the Internet
00:19:36 - EEPROM Programming
00:22:20 - Dismantling the Paddle
00:25:45 - EEPROM Adapter
00:32:36 - Testing the EEPROM PLA
00:34:43 - Interlude: Case Repair
00:40:33 - NEW PLA Test
00:41:50 - Let’s Just Try The Drive On Its Own
00:43:11 - Scope Tests
00:46:38 - Enter PCBWay…
00:47:24 - And A 6525 From Poland
00:53:23 - Test with New Cartridge
00:55:35 - A New Test Program
00:59:29 - New Test with Old Paddle
01:01:08 - Transferring the Cable to the New paddle
01:05:57 - Test: Drive + New Paddle
01:09:23 - Retest the Original PLA
01:11:22 - Performance Test and Benchmarks
With original 1581 drives becoming increasingly rare and correspondingly expensive, building a replica may be the only way to get your hands on Commodore's 8-bit wonder drive at a reasonable price.
And it turns out that while some components are not particularly cheap, it isn't a difficult build to complete.
But getting it to work reliably might be a lot harder than you think...
Check out Lee's Gotek 1581: youtube.com/watch?v=ZaS55XLTBcU
Retrobits 1581 build: youtube.com/watch?v=8_3zLvWC-ZI
1581 Enhanced PCB: pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Commodore_1581_Enhanced_Drive_Board_1581D_1582_build_compatible_d1430f2c.html
PC Drive Adapter: pcbway.com/project/shareproject/1581_PC_Drive_adapter_7b0c4d86.html
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
00:00:00 - Introduction
00:00:27 - Parts Overview
00:01:15 - Checking the PCBs
00:02:24 - Soldering the Small Parts
00:06:46 - Soldering the Sockets
00:08:44 - Crystal Oscillator Confusion
00:14:19 - Putting In The ICs
00:19:41 - The Final IC
00:23:44 - First Power-On Test
00:28:31 - Power up with drive attached
00:31:10 - Plug it in to the Plus/4
00:44:18 - And then it all went wrong
01:00:12 - Recapping the drive
01:04:55 - Trying the Recapped Drive
01:06:53 - Boxes and Screws
01:14:27 - Conclusions
Instructions for calibrating the laser came from Mike's Vintage Tech, check out his video here: youtube.com/watch?v=chIF8JrIFS4
and from the TSB blog, check that out here: https://www.tsb.space/knowledge-base/amiga-cd32-laser-calibration-replace-laser-pickup-procedure/
Check out these channels:
8-Bit Retro Refix: / @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: / @CaptainCommodore
Retro4u: / @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: / @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: / @RetroKrazy
8bitsinthebasement: / @8bitsinthebasement
Alices Retro Wonderland: @Alices.Retro.Wonderland
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
00:00 - Introduction
00:21 - Disassembling the Laser Assembly
04:27 - PCB WAY
05:00 - Fitting the new Laser Assembly
07:55 - Trying the new Laser
09:44 - Next Steps
10:21 - Remember those Caps?
12:37 - Another Problem - No Left Audio
14:47 - Removing the two Backwards Caps
18:19 - Getting it to Read a CD
20:18 - Calibrating the Laser
23:15 - Adjusting the TEB Pot
24:35 - Adjusting the FEB Pot
27:54 - Adjusting the laser Output - First Try
28:46 - OK, let’s have another go
30:04 - The ‘Eye Diagram’
30:59 - First Pot (again)
32:13 - Second Pot (again)
34:37 - Fourth Pot - Focus Error Gain
35:43 - Summing Up
Ok, so it's not actual LEGO (TM etc), but it's "compatible", made by Pantasy in China, and distributed in the UK by Brikk
Affiliate Amazon links if you want to build your own
UK: amzn.to/3TCOCfT
US: amzn.to/3NEBbIE
(if you use the link even to buy something different, it will help the channel)
Other ways to help support my channel:
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
f you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Channels mentioned in this video & worth checking:
8BitRetroRefix: @8BitRetroReFix
Josip Retro Bits: @JosipRetroBits
Retro4u: @Retro4u
Captain Commodore: @CaptainCommodore
So what's wrong with it? And Can I fix it...?
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocornerDonate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Channels mentioned in this video:
8BitRetroRefix: @8BitRetroReFix
Retro Krazy: @RetroKrazy
00:00 - Introduction
00:35 - Initial examination
02:46 - PCB Way
03:16 - Checking the TED
05:06 - Trying a replacement TED
08:17 - 8501 and PLA
09:42 - Try a GAL PLA
10:41 - Another Plus/4!
11:13 - Send the Chips to Steve!
11:41 - Steve’s Report
17:28 - What to Do For a CPU?
18:20 - 6510 CPU Adapter
20:31 - Refitting the working chips
21:58 - Building and fitting the Adapters
29:04 - First Test
30:40 - Diagnostics Test
33:02 - Further Testing
Sometimes you see a real bargain on eBay that's just too good to be true...
And so, the PowerBook Duo 230 - Gem or Junk. The Duo was my first encounter with the Apple Macintosh, way back in 1994. I jumped at this incredibly cheap example.
Was it a good buy? Is it a gem, or is it junk...?
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Some other channels you should check out:
8BitRetroRefix: @8BitRetroReFix
Captain Commodore: @CaptainCommodore
Jess B's Tech Dept @techdept
Josip Retro Bits: @JosipRetroBits
Retro Krazy: @RetroKrazy
Retro4u: @Retro4u
00:00 - Introduction
01:21 - PCBWay
02:44 - First Look
09:54 - Taking it Apart
29:56 - Oh No! He’s Twisting It!!
31:28 - The Keyboard
36:27 - New Capacitors
40:24 - Reassembly
43:31 - Trying it Out
45:42 - Conclusions and Summary
The foot-warmer brick-of-death power supply that came with this Plus/4 needs to be replaced. Urgently. Before it destroys the computer.
These power supplies are notorious for failing, and when they do, the voltage regulator shorts its output to its input, sending lethal voltages to all the chips in the computer.
But we can make a brand new one that's safe and reliable. And all it takes is a 9 volt transformer, a small 5 volt Mean Well, a bit of soldering, and some 3D printing. Oh, and an LED. Because you've got to have LEDs.
BTW this build will work equally well with a C64 or C128, all you need is the appropriate plug for the computer.
Obligatory warning: mains voltages can be lethal. Do not attempt this project unless you are comfortable working with mains voltage and know what you're doing. The mains here is 240V, yours may be different.
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Some other channels you should check out:
8BitRetroRefix: @8BitRetroReFix
Retro4u: @Retro4u
Josip Retro Bits: @JosipRetroBits
Captain Commodore: @CaptainCommodore
Retro Krazy: @RetroKrazy
00:00 - Introduction
01:48 - PCBWay
02:25 - The PSU Connector
03:10 - Plus/4, C64, or C128?
06:16 - What we’re gonna do
10:23 - Take the Cables Off the Old One
12:33 - Breaking and Entering
17:09 - Wiring up the Transformer
21:45 - Fitting the Mean Well
22:16 - Wiring up the Connectors
23:42 - Wiring the output of the transformer
26:20 - Swap Over the Fuse
26:55 - Add an LED
27:38 - First Test
29:12 - Hooking Up the LED
29:27 - LED
34:10 - Moment of Truth
Oh, and
BOO!
The full width version is available exclusive to patrons. Check it out - patreon.com/timsretrocorner
I thought it would be a simple job: just retrobright the keycaps. But then . . . Disaster!!! Now it won't even power up! What could have gone wrong? Check this out!
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
00:00 - Introduction
00:35 - De-Keying the Keyboard
02:45 - PCBWay
03:19 - Wash - Rinse - Repeat
05:27 - Give it some Blue
08:04 - Re-Keying the Keyboard
10:22 - The “Oh No!” moment
10:56 - Overcurrent Protection
12:25 - A Brief Digression About Screws
13:11 - De-Capping the Cap
15:00 - Try it Again
16:00 - Fixing the Broken Plastic Bits
17:56 - Summing Up
Well, there were two solutions: one is to fit an interface card to the printer itself. These are rare and hard to find (and were, even back in the day). The second is to use a serial to centronics converter. And that's just what we're going to do...
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out my Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
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00:00 - Introduction
02:17 - PCBWay
02:59 - Disassembly
04:37 - Cleaning
05:49 - 5V Connection
07:04 - Printing!
12:52 - PrintMaster Plus
15:17 - Wrap Up
The Plus/4 was Commodore's much underappreciated successor to the C64. I found one online "untested" for a great price. It looks pretty grubby. Does it work? Let's find out...
If you'd like to help support this channel, please check out our Patreon. You can also make a one-off donation or use the channel Super Thanks.
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
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Follow me on Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
00:00 - Introduction
02:20 - PCBWay
03:06 - PSU Test
04:59 - Initial Disassembly
12:28 - Pulling Keycaps
13:25 - In the Sink
22:54 - C2N Datasette
25:02 - Let’s try a tape
30:41 - Re-Capping
33:56 - Put it back together
Continuing our exploration of probes and sensors on the Commodore 64. We look into uses for the data, and also explore analogue probes, and I2C Bus devices such as the Pimoroni BME280 to measure pressure and humidity, as well as temperature.
Check out part 1 of this series: youtu.be/SLdSVMFEKJw
Josip's original video that acted as inspiration: youtube.com/watch?v=bwWxnF6vDwE
Please consider supporting this channel through our Patreon, or via a one-off donation or Super Thanks.
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Parts used in this project:
PCB: pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Commodore_64_User_Port_Project_Development_PCB_bb031400.html
DS18B20 waterproof sensor thepihut.com/products/waterproof-ds18b20-digital-temperature-sensor-extras?variant=27740417873
TMP36 analog sensor thepihut.com/products/tmp36-analog-temperature-sensor?variant=27739528401
Pimoroni BME280 shop.pimoroni.com/products/bme280-breakout?variant=29420960677971
ENVIII thepihut.com/products/env-iii-unit-with-temperature-humidity-air-pressure-sensor-sht30-qmp6988?variant=40639008014531
Thermistor* amzn.to/44Nu8mE (UK) amzn.to/3sOmSJQ (US)
7 Segment Display* amzn.to/3sXRvg7 (UK) amzn.to/3PI3Vlm (US)
IS31 matrix display thepihut.com/products/adafruit-is31fl3741-13x9-pwm-rgb-led-matrix-driver-stemma-qt-qwiic
Wire, terminal block (optional), pin header (optional)
* denotes affiliate link. Brands may differ between UK/US stores
Data Sheets:
DS18B20: analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/DS18B20.pdf
TMP36: analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/TMP35_36_37.pdf
BME280: mouser.com/datasheet/2/783/BST-BME280-DS002-1509607.pdf
SHT30: digikey.co.uk/htmldatasheets/production/1873079/0/0/1/sht31-smart-gadget.pdf
TM1637: m5stack.oss-cn-shenzhen.aliyuncs.com/resource/docs/datasheet/unit/digi_clock/TM1637.pdf
IS31FL3741A lumissil.com/assets/pdf/core/IS31FL3741A_DS.pdf
Code:
Please see Josip's video above for the original code.
Code for this episode: dropbox.com/scl/fi/4zpoqryvu1b66i5vqr0nx/TRC047-Sensors.zip?rlkey=cqrgydudkhweicrws3zmlsmva&dl=0
00:00 - Introduction
01:03 - Program Changes
05:10 - PCB Way
12:04 - Run the Program
14:04 - Adafruit TMP36 Sensor
16:06 - TMP36 - Analogue Temperature Probe
20:58 - Testing the Joystick Port with a Pot
22:53 - I-squared-C You
23:29 - I2C Primer
26:24 - Connecting up the I2C sensors
29:09 - I2C Data
40:08 - ENV-III
50:23 - Analogue Thermistor
54:27 - Round Up
54:50 - One Last Thing
There's a User Port on the back of the C64 that's got to be useful for something, right? Right! So with a few components and a little bit of programming, let's turn our C64 into a thermometer!
This video was inspired by the following video on Josip's Retro Bits: youtube.com/watch?v=bwWxnF6vDwE Please check it out, and while you're there, subscribe to his channel. It's good stuff.
So, the bits:
User port port board: pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Commodore_64_User_Port_Project_Development_PCB_bb031400.html
DS18B20 waterproof sensor thepihut.com/products/waterproof-ds18b20-digital-temperature-sensor-extras?variant=27740417873
Wire, terminal block (optional), pin header (optional)
Data Sheet: analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/DS18B20.pdf
The code:
Please see Josip's video above for the original code.
Code for this episode: dropbox.com/scl/fi/i146eqbjt9tli0le5q1od/DS18-TRC.zip?rlkey=zmc48ugy5ikdjl5m3099qfjfc&dl=0
Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
The Epson FX 80 was the workhorse printer in my old 8-bit days. It wasn't my first - that was the Commodore MPS801 (spoiler: it was bloody awful). Very quickly I replaced that with an FX 80, and this printer served me well through C64, C128, Amiga and even my first PC.
So imagine my delight when I found one for sale at an incredibly cheap price. I grabbed it straight away, and now let's see if we can get it going...
FX80 user manual: files.support.epson.com/pdf/fx80__/fx80__uv.pdf
FX80 Windows drivers: epson.com/Support/Printers/Impact-Printers/FX-Series/Epson-FX-80/s/SPT_F102#drivers
SAMS FX80 Service Manual: archive.org/details/Sams_Computerfacts_Epson_FX-80_Printer_1985_Howard_Sams
Amazon book links (affiliate):
UK: amzn.to/43MgpMt
US: amzn.to/3OaH4N3
Mastodon: https://retrorewind.social/@trc
Patreon: patreon.com/timsretrocorner
Donate: paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=DC2YUGZDYKHRN
00:00 - Introduction
00:36 - The Epson FX80
03:38 - Sponsor Segment
04:23 - Disassembly
07:34 - Further Disassembly and Cleaning
09:03 - Print Head Cleaning
13:33 - Does it Work?
17:35 - Printing with Protext
25:05 - Graphics Printing
26:12 - Retrobrighting
28:49 - Reassembly
31:20 - Final Thoughts
Jan Beta's video on fixing the HDD LED: youtube.com/watch?v=1v5m-86RBf8 (see the comments section for more suggestions)
20K resistor fix: forum.amiga.org/index.php?topic=72859.0
MOSFET fix: http://megaburken.net/~patrik/Amiga%20SD%20Adapter%20HD%20LED%20Fix/fix.txt
MOSFET photo: http://megaburken.net/~patrik/Amiga%20SD%20Adapter%20HD%20LED%20Fix/example.jpg
Please consider supporting the channel through a one-off Super Thanks, or the upcoming channel memberships. We're approaching the magic 1000 subscribers mark, so your subscription would also be really welcome. No pressure, of course.
00:00 - Introduction
00:46 - Fitting a new Floppy
02:36 - Testing the floppy drive
03:38 - Fitting a CF adapter
06:04 - PRogramming the Kickstart ROM
07:06 - Fitting the new Kickstart
10:46 - Partition CF - Take 1
14:39 - Partition CF - Take 2
16:01 - 2M Chip RAM expansion
17:38 - Partition CF - Take 3
19:35 - Partition CF - This Time it’s War!
20:42 - Partition CF - DIe you B@$*(£^¢&
29:15 - EPROM Stickers, and the LED Problem
Resources:
8050 Service Manual & schematics: http://www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cbm/schematics/drives/old/8050/index.html
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Get an Agon Light from The Pi Hut (not sponsored): thepihut.com/products/agonlight2-z80-bbc-basic-retro-single-board-computer
Agon Light Links:
thebyteattic.com/p/agon.html
github.com/TheByteAttic/AgonLight
github.com/breakintoprogram/agon-docs/wiki/Updating-Firmware
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00:00 - Introduction
01:38 - Board Assembly
02:29 - “Put These on That!”
04:16 - Testing
05:55 - Working Board!
08:48 - One-Line Maze
09:39 - Firmware Update
15:37 - GPIO
21:11 - Conclusion
22:20 - Outtake
I got hold of a selection of LED matrix panels, ranging from a 64x32 HUB95 through a 16x16 I2C panel and even a string of NeoPixels. Just how easy is it to make a useful display out of them?
Let's find out...
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00:00 - Introduction
00:22 - Unboxing
03:42 - Sponsor Message
04:13 - Hub75 64x32 Panel
07:18 - Assembling the Interface
11:11 - Hooking up the Matrix
14:13 - Adafruit 13x9 I2C Matrix
17:24 - Pimoroni Ubercorn 16x16
23:24 - WS2812b “Neopixel” String
So, buoyed up from my success at getting the "untested" VIC working (see youtu.be/nTLfV4o0OdI ) Decided to fit some ZIF sockets to enable me to use this machine as a 6502/6522 chip tester.
And of course it all went horribly wrong . . .
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
00:53 - Sponsor Message
01:39 - Desoldering Montage
06:28 - Testing with the ZIF Sockets
06:50 - Well bugger.
09:05 - Oscilloscope Traces
11:36 - Swapping out the 245
13:49 - EPROM Adapter board
18:34 - Replacing the ROMs
20:06 - Try it out again
22:28 - Interlude… Some Cleaning
23:26 - Another Week Later
24:29 - Retest with everything Socketed
26:42 - Put it Back Together
27:54 - Cartridges
28:25 - Definitely NOT a gamer!
In the second part of this Amiga 1200 restoration, we'll be replacing the mechanical hard drive with a modern Compact Flash drive, attempting to repair the QuickShot dual Amiga/ST mouse, and fitting the Power Computing PC1208 FPU & RAM card.
There will be Benchmarks!
A1200 Part 1: youtu.be/XDJea1J3W5M
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
00:55 - Sponsor Message
03:57 - FPU & RAM Card
07:00 - Fitting the FPU Card
08:27 - Quickshot Mouse
12:43 - Another Mouse
14:02 - Back to the FPU Card
15:23 - Benchmarks
19:00 - Summing Up
I got this Vic-20 from eBay "untested". It seems to work but it fails the diagnostics with a bad tape motor error. So let's fix it.
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
01:09 - Sponsor Message
01:51 - Teardown
03:48 - First Test
05:32 - Checking the 9 Volts
07:28 - Replacing the fuse holder
11:17 - Replacing the Zener Diode
13:25 - Coming Up In Part 2
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
01:24 - Taking it Apart
02:47 - Motherboard Inspection
05:58 - Recapping the mainboard
08:49 - Lifted Pad
09:40 - Fitting new Capacitors
12:18 - Fitting the Bodge Wire
16:09 - Further Disassembly
29:03 - Oops!
30:19 - Putting it all Back Together
32:55 - Floppy Drive Cleanup
36:35 - Final Assembly
37:41 - Magic Smoke Test
41:55 - Second Test
44:34 - Final Assembly Montage
45:19 - Build Review
Last month I built a breadboard floppy replacement for my MiniPET. Well, a prototype for it anyway. In this video I turn that prototype into a PCB.
Watch part 1: youtu.be/g1RisoxQX9I
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
00:20 - Titles
01:08 - KiCad - Circuit Schematic
05:55 - KiCad - Board Layout
08:49 - Exporting the Gerber Files
16:07 - Upload to PCBWay
17:52 - The Great PCB Unboxing
20:17 - Building the Board
31:04 - Cockups and Admissions
33:28 - Testing
35:52 - Mini “State of the Nation”
In this video I do some basic restoration and recapping. But then: what is that weird problem with the mouse? Let's find out...
ICPUG still maintains an online presence to this day: http://www.icpug.org.uk
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
00:50 - Unboxing
05:01 - Sponsor Message
12:11 - Test 1: Basic power up/. Does it work?
13:40 - Test 2: Hard Drive
17:20 - Re-Cap Preparation
23:27 - SMD Cap Removal
27:05 - Tracking Down the Trace
28:41 - Replacing the capacitor with the broken pad
31:34 - Attaching the ‘normal’ SMD caps
32:02 - Fitting the thru hole caps
33:10 - Refit the Keyboard Connector
34:06 - Testing the recapped board
37:18 - Scope It!
41:57 - Removing the Mouse Filter Capacitor
43:21 - Retest
I enjoyed making the Pi-1541 a few weeks ago, and I decided to try making something similar for the PET. The initial prototype is sketched out on breadboard, and programmed in Python, using a Pi400.
Yes I know there are devices out there that already do something similar (SD2PET and Pet Disk Max are two that I own), but they don't quite do what I want of them to in one way or another. And yes I also know the NoDiskEmu software that drives these devices can be forked and adapted. But I'm learning Python for work, and this is a learning experience: I want to figure out my own solution. It may not even work, but I'll have fun finding out!
This is a bit of an experiment in trying something different: it's not a repair video; it's not even a tutorial as such. In the week or so that I allowed myself to work on it, I only got so far. If you'd like to see it go further, please comment below. The next stage would be to take it to a PCB, maybe make a 3d printed case, and of course, continue the software.
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
04:16 - Sponsor Massage
04:57 - Hardware Sketch
09:46 - Equipment
13:33 - Intermediate Breadboard Layout
17:30 - Configuring the Pi - Enable I2C
19:19 - Buttons & LEDs - mini demo
20:08 - IEEE Data Transfer Demo
The Minstrel 4D is a kit computer built from modern day available parts. It's based on the Jupiter Ace, a small Z-80 micro from 1982 that was notable for running FORTH. But the kit expands on the Ace and gives it a full 49K of RAM, turbo mode, and an RC-2014 expansion bus.
The kit is available from The Future Was 8-Bit thefuturewas8bit.com and I'm going to build it...
Resources:
Jupiter Ace Archive: jupiter-ace.co.uk/index.html
RC-2014 Kits & Modules: rc2014.co.uk
Tynemouth Software Blog: http://blog.tynemouthsoftware.co.uk
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
00:21 - Unboxing
05:14 - Sponsor Message
05:46 - The Jupiter Ace
07:16 - The Minstrel Series Kits
08:24 - Let’s Make It!
09:25 - Low Profile Components
11:24 - Diodes
13:28 - Capacitors
16:35 - Resistance Isn’t Futile
19:10 - Sockets
26:59 - Resistor Arrays
28:04 - MOSFETs and Regulators
29:33 - Crystal, Transducer, DIP Switch
30:50 - LEDs & Electrolytics
31:43 - Connectors
36:25 - Keyboard Switches
38:10 - Pillars
38:50 - KeyCaps and Overlay
43:47 - First Power On Test
46:28 - Demo
49:11 - Bonus
The floppy drive on this A600 (a Panasonic JU-253-043P) doesn't work. At least, it doesn't spin. The heads tick back & forth as you'd expect, but nothing happens when you put a disk in. Hopefully I can find the problem. And since it's the coldest, darkest time of the year, it must be time to do some retrobrighting! So we'll do that too...
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
02:13 - Sponsor Message
03:40 - The disk’s not spinning!
04:39 - A leaky capacitor in the drive?07:45 - Replacing the Capacitor
08:42 - Recapped Drive Test
10:43 - Trying an A500 Drive
12:59 - Drive Motor Tests
14:52 - Drive Disassembly
16:16 - Let’s Retrobright!
17:12 - Keys
26:06 - Keyboard Brush Down
26:41 - Keyboard Reassembly
28:22 - Case Assembly
On initial inspection the case looks to be in reasonable condition. Yellow for sure and there's a crack by the floppy button. But at least it's clean. Oh, and one of the two warranty seals is still intact (but not for long!)
Of course that means that inside lurk those nasty, leaky, surface mount capacitors. Better get the soldering iron heated up...
This is my first time with SMD caps, so the technique I'm using comes from literally minutes of watching YouTube! Big shout out to Ravenwolf Retro Tech youtube.com/@RavenWolfRetroTech for this one. Do check out his channel. And in particular this one: youtube.com/watch?v=zhUpcBpJUzg
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
01:26 - Sponsor Message
01:52 - Surface Mount Capacitors
06:31 - Plug it in, see what it does…
06:50 - Recapping - Introduction
07:55 - Unsoldering the first cap
09:05 - Removing the Keyboard Connector
10:22 - Remove the Audio Connector
10:50 - Removing the Surface Mount Caps
16:23 - Fitting New Capacitors
20:45 - Fitting the Through Hole Capacitors
22:20 - Preliminary Test
24:57 - Testing the System
26:38 - Diagrom
This is an open source project by Steve White, and the project page is here: cbm-pi1541.firebaseapp.com There is also a GitHub page for the source code: github.com/pi1541/Pi1541
I bought mine as a kit from eBay, but there are many other variations. If you want to source the components yourself, you can order PCBs through the shared project page on PCBWay: pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Pi1541_IO_Adapter__Rev_4.html
The case I used: thingiverse.com/thing:4892996
I made the following modifications to it
- Extended the width by 1mm just to make it an easier fit
- Extended the front by 20mm to make it easier to fit the LEDs in the front panel
- Shifted the OLED window by 4mm to suit my particular OLED screen
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
00:32 - Discussion
02:48 - Sponsor message
03:23 - The Build
07:46 - Set Up the SD Card
13:23 - First Test
15:15 - External Monitor Test
16:05 - Startup Problem Fixed
17:44 - I Missed some Board Jumpers!
19:00 - Final Test
22:07 - 3D Printing the Case
25:04 - The Completed unit in Operation
From the initial look I suspected the 2MB Agnus was dead ( a very expensive IC), but maybe there are problems with the RAM support logic? and there's always the old standby... battery damage.
Also viewers suggested checking out this video youtube.com/watch?v=V3yC2DFsNlc&t=1698s for what looks to be a similar problem. So let's do that.
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
Chapters
00:00 - Introduction
02:52 - Sponsor Message
03:40 - First Test
06:32 - Scope it Out
10:17 - Desoldering Montage
13:30 - Chips tested
15:18 - Beeping the PCB
16:34 - Green Goo
20:02 - Bodge Wire
20:58 - New Chip, Crystal
22:39 - After all that… Does it work?
23:48 - Vanilla A500 Comparison
25:22 - Clean the PLCC Socket
26:56 - A New Agnus
29:05 - Trying the New Agnus
30:45 - Another Desoldering Montage. Oh joy!
34:53 - Epilogue
The 6530 RRIOT chip is used in all the Commodore IEEE disk drives. And if it dies, it's impossible to find a replacement. EXCEPT, with an adapter we can use a much more common 6532 in its place.
Today we will make that adapter, using our own PCB design.
This project is based on the original work of Ruud Baltissen, who came up with the schematic. The project page on his site is: http://www.baltissen.org/newhtm/6530repl.htm
KiCad PCB layout software: kicad.org
FreeRouting autoroute: freerouting.org
PCB Shared Project order link: pcbway.com/project/shareproject/6530_to_6532_RRIOT_to_RIOT_adapter_for_IEEE_disk_drives_16cf7551.html
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Music: Arpanauts by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
01:03 - Why this Board?
04:36 - Introducing KiCad
05:02 - Starting KiCad
06:06 - Create the Schematic
07:18 - Bring the schematic into the PCB Layout editor
08:23 - DRC - Design Rules Checker
09:07 - Fix missing connection in schematic
09:43 - FreeRouting - Java autoroute app
10:28 - Re-import and check
10:38 - Power Rails & Tweaks
11:18 - 3D VIEW
11:54 - Gerber Files
15:13 - Unboxing
20:21 - Building the Board
21:28 - The Legendary and Infamous Soldering Montage
25:29 - Will It Work?
It's time to take my C128 keyboard apart and find out what's wrong with it. And put it right. Warning: this video contains scenes of 3D Printing...
Key Plunger STL file on Thingiverse: thingiverse.com/thing:3910131
Also, if you've ever taken your keyboard apart and found a mysterious tiny spring left over, this video is for you!
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00:00 - Introduction
00:35 - Removing the affected keys
01:31 - Keyboard Disassembly
03:41 - The Damage is Revealed
04:42 - 3D Printing New Posts
06:08 - Fitting and Adjustment
09:05 - An Extra Tiny Spring
09:44 - First Test
12:20 - Reassembly and Final Comments
This SFD 1001 drive came with a surprise: it once belonged to the company where I got my first programming job!
In the last episode we finished our restoration of the drive and powered it on. But it didn't work.
This time we go in depth, searching for bad chips and other problems with the motherboard. And we discover a worrying problem on the drive itself.
See the first video in this series: youtu.be/yVyCzW7McdU
See the MiniPET build series: youtu.be/EQ5zd12L4u4
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Music: A Night of Dizzy Spells by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
00:55 - Easy Chip Tests
02:58 - Sponsor Message
04:16 - Testing in a 1541
22:15 - SFD Drive Architecture
29:33 - First Test
36:06 - Yes, I was a numpty!
38:50 - Broken Sensor Wire
45:10 - Progress - One Step Forward…
47:34 - Reading an 8250 format Disk
49:53 - … 2 Steps Back
53:07 - Socket Replacement Montage
54:27 - One Last Test
56:21 - Epilogue
So when I got my brand new M2 MacBook Air, what was the logical first thing to do with it? Install an Amiga emulator of course!
No the irony is not lost that I should use a £1500 new computer to emulate a £300 old one! This is What We Do!
Thanks for watching.
(Now, I think the next step might be to install a Mac emulator on the Amiga, so I can have a Mac emulating an Amiga emulating a Mac....)
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Music: A Night of Dizzy Spells by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
Time Stamps:
00:00 - Introduction
05:15 - Installing AmiBerry
10:22 - Configuring AmiBerry - Kickstart
11:59 - Creating a hard drive with Workbench
23:25 - Sysinfo
26:21 - Frontier Elete Demo
30:03 - Summary
This SFD 1001 drive came with a surprise: it once belonged to the company where I got my first programming job!
Last week we stripped the drive down and repaired a corroded spindle motor board. This week we turn our attention to the power supply and the main PCB.
Let's see if we can fix it up and get it working.
In this video we're working on wires that directly connect to the mains (230V AC in our case). DO NOT MESS WITH MAINS CONNECTIONS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. THE MAINS CAN KILL YOU.
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Music: A Night of Dizzy Spells by Eric Skiff - http://ericskiff.com/music
00:00 - Introduction
00:48 - Installing The Power Supply - Part 1
05:33 - Sponsor Message
13:38 - Re-Capping the main PCB
16:52 - Replacing the IEEE Connector
21:52 - Checking the Voltages
22:46 - Reassembly
23:33 - Retrobright Results
29:07 - The Magic Smoke Test