Make Things
Advanced Thin Strip Jig
updated
So I thought I'd make my own hammer using jatoba, hard maple and a hex head bolt, turned on a wood lathe. Instead of the ugly rubber side, I chose to go with a couple strips of leather. Does it work? While I wouldn't use this to hammer in a nail or whack the snot out of a joint, for the smaller things I need it for, it is absolutely perfect.
Playlist of all Bitesize tips used → youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEBXNh1Ik9FnrIbE2Dj7PCrAD8tIOTr2h
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But I recently discovered, through trial and error, my own method to fix this. First make sure your blades are sharp. Dull blades won’t cut it.
Second, we have to figure out the direction of our grain as cutting against the grain will make our stock less stable and more likely to catch. Use the edge of your shirt to find the direction that’s the roughest and draw an arrow on your stock pointing in that direction. Third, we’ll use a long piece of scrap plywood, preferably 3/4’s of an inch thick. Use superglue to glue a 1/16th inch strip of wood 10 inches from the front of the plywood…and you’ll also want your stock to be at the very most 6 inches from the tail end of your plywood.
Place the arrow on your stock towards you and make sure that the strip of wood you’ve added is the first part of your stock to go through. Now make shallow passes until your stock is at the desired thickness.
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Mark uses positioning squares with clamps to create a small, sliding rip fence. Because my sled is slightly taller, I’ll cut a piece of plywood so that each corner is 90˚, and then cut a 45˚ corner off by using a square. Now I have an edge to hold onto as well as an angle to cut 45˚ miters.
Of course, you’ll want to hold whatever stock you plan on cutting, which is why Mark uses a piece of rough stock to hold things in place.
To make the cut, you only need to keep a few things in mind. First the stock must be pushed against the crosscut fence, as well as tightly squeezed against your ripping fence. It’s also a really good idea if you’re cutting thin stock to switch to a blade with a 1/16th inch blade kerf. Finally, you might choose to turn off the saw before bringing the sled backward…which will help prevent any chance of the blade catching the stock.
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Today, we're going to look at a Vevor's that they are discontinuing. Because it's being discontinued, I suggest getting one of these while you can...but if all are sold, the method I use to install this vise will work on any number of others.
Special discount codes for not one, but two different style of vises!
Codes:
VVMH5 (5 USD discount on all products)
VVMH5%OFF (5% off on all products)
Style 1 → 9-inch Woodworking Vise: https://s.vevor.com/bfQGKU
Style 2 →10-inch Woodworking Vise: https://s.vevor.com/bfQHEL
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00:00 Introduction
01:00 2. Out of the box
02:00 3. Installing
07:02 4. Making a simple crank
08:38 5. Compare and contrast
10:51 6. Credits (thanks guys!)
Fortunately, we rarely need to do things like drilling a hole into the side of a dowel rod. Every once and a while, the occasion does come up. I’ve got a dowel that I’ll use as a cheap, simple handle for a vise I’m installing, and I’m going to add a couple bolts on either end to prevent the dowel from slipping out of the vise. Technically, I could drill a hole with my drill press anywhere on the dowel end and still have the ability to thread a bolt through, but I want this to look symmetrical on both ends.I’ll turn, instead, to a v-block, which will cradle the dowel.
We’ll grab a speed square and add sections on a 1 x 2 into segments with a 45 degree angle drawn on the face. After using the bandsaw to cut the pieces down, I’ll attach them to a piece of flat plywood with super and wood glue. When I attach my dowel, I’ll use painters tape to hold it in place and take it to the drill press. Now to find the direct center of the crest of the dowel, I’ll chuck a brand point bit in my press and scratch the top. I’ll measure the scratch length to find the center, and bob’s your uncle, we’ll drill it out. When I’m done, I can be sure that my holes are centered as well as on the same plane with each other.
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If you’re not getting a 90˚ hole with your drill press, you might as well be using a hand drill. That 90 degrees should not only be north and south but east to west. But finding that compass sweet spot isn’t always easy. You’re contending with a table that drops when you loosen the lock, and manufactures gauges aren’t always accurate. You can use a machinist square, but accuracy is better found with a wider breadth from the center of the table out.
One method I’ve seen is to take a wire and create a Z with it. You’ll put one end in the chuck and check to see if it hits all four quadrants of your drill press table on the same plane. This works but I came up with a simple jig that I like a little better that helps to visualize the process with a pencil. I used my bandsaw to cut notches on either side of a strip of wood that are large enough to fit a quarter inch bolt and a pencil, which I clamp in. Tape a piece of paper down and raise the table so that the pencil barely touches the paper, and spin.
East to west is easy to fix by loosening a locking nut, but north to south can be fixed by shimming a piece of aluminum strip from a pop can between the column and the adjuster.
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The most important part of the wood gluing process is the loss of water. When water is pulled away from the synthetic glue, the glue hardens and then cures. If you buy wood glue in bulk to save money, you might notice that the first half seems to be the easiest to work with while the last half becomes dry and thick. If we think about what’s happening, each time we refill a glue bottle, glue that exits the glue bottle is replaced with dryer air. That dryer air pulls water from the glue, which is the drying process we rely on when we want things to stick together.
We can significantly improve our glue lifespan if we remove as much air out of a near empty bottle that we can or regularly make sure our bench glue bottles are refilled instead of waiting to reach the end before filling. Titebond’s website states that their glue can be thinned with water by up to 5% weight or volume. I’m not suggesting that you purposely thin your glue, but if we add a little water, like a capful, to a half full glue bottle, we’re creating a humid environment where water can’t be released from the glue. This will help ensure that your glue lasts at least the shelf life or well past it.
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Lathes are built to spin stock around at very high speeds between two points of contact. While a piece of stock can spin freely at the headstock without being supported on the back end, you’re better off if you can maintain that second point of contact. Sometimes it’s necessary to work on the end of the stock which means the only support you’re giving it is in the front. Unfortunately, bad things can happen with only one support.
Enter the steady rest. A steady rest is simply a fixture that creates a second point of contact that helps enforce stability. While there are many ways to make steady rests, I created my own out of 3 rollerblade wheels and a simple frame I made on the table saw. If you like using knobs, like I do, it can be made to accept knobs to hold the upper and lower arms in place. If you want a quick fixture, you can use a set of f-clamps to hold it together.
While a lot of these rollerblade style fixtures are limited to larger projects due to the angles of wheels, mine allows you to move your wheels so that you can get much thinner stock in the center.
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*Link in the description* ↓
Free plans →
Steady Knob Build → youtu.be/KJ71hae3QZI
"Playlist of all bitesize tips used" → youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEBXNh1Ik9FmP9rRq7ulkcLKBgC-5yJhF
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But unlike the dovetail joint, using the draw boring method can actually make your joint much tighter. To illustrate this, we’ll make a simple half lap to show how the edges pull together. First I’ll drill a hole through the first half of the lap. I’ll push my laps together and mark the second piece with the brad point bit I used earlier. I’ll make a second mark slightly closer to the inside edge of the joint and drill it out. With a dowel, I’ll add a taper so that it’s easier to hit the second hole…and now you just have to hit it in. As the tapered dowel slides in, the two boards are squeezed together giving you a tight joint. Now all you have to do is cut both sides of your dowel and you have a joint that cannot be pulled apart.
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“Playlist of all bitesize tips used”: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEBXNh1Ik9FmAXGIXCNZzNPwG-dkZtgWq&si=ZKgACD3aXFg7tk5U
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If you’re struggling to get precise cuts when making joints, either if you’re making them by hand or with a power tool, there’s a technique used by Japanese woodworkers that you can employ to clean things up. First, we’ll start the joint by using a knife to cut an exact line that will make up our joint. We’ll rough cut our stock using a bandsaw, or, if you’re going with hand tools, a pull saw. With this dovetail lap joint, I used a coping saw to get a large majority of my stock out.
Now we’ll use a dovetail hold down…or, if you made the quad vise, we’ll use the upper vise. We’ll use a thick piece of stock that has a perfect 90˚ edge as a reference jig. This piece of white oak has been squared up with the jointer and I store it for joints. We’ll take a chisel, line it up in the cut, and make sure that it is perfectly parallel to our reference. This takes a little practice to bump your stock just right so that the blade sits against your jig, but from here it is really easy to to cut the face of your joint. With a sharp enough chisel, slicing away a razors width of stock is far easier. With this jig, you’ll be amazed by how tight you can make your joints.
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Morgan Treeman
If you need to space 3 objects along a plane evenly, we add 1 and divide the length by 4...as we’ve talked about in bitesize 187. But how do we space marks evenly around a circle? I have a project that calls for making a pentagon out of a 12 inch circle disk, but how do I find 5 different points on that circle?
One way is to take 360 degrees, which is the degrees in a circle, and divide it by the 5 equal parts we need. Seventy two degrees would be our answer. After drawing a radius I can use a protractor to add lines every 72 degrees. Of course, this works, but if you don’t have a protractor or don’t know where your center is, here’s another way.
I’ll take a piece of painters tape and wrap it around the sphere that I made. After removing it, I’ll measure the length of it in millimeters and divide by 5. I’ll space each number equally, place my tape back on my circle and add my marks. The beauty of this system is that I can easily take any equilateral shape and precisely divide it into sections…and I’m not marking the face of my project which would mean I’d need to clean it up later on.
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Most table saws struggle to cut sheet goods down to size. It can be done…it’s just not fun. I made a track saw a few years ago that works, but it’s complicated and requires a table saw to make. Instead, you can make a very simple jig out of a piece of unistrut, a thin piece of panel and a few screws. You’ll only need a circular saw, a hacksaw and a drill to finish this project…so it’s perfect if you’re just starting out. The project should take less than 30 minutes to make and I promise, you’ll never look at a table saw again when it’s time to cut plywood to size.
The plywood is completely optional and it’s only purpose is to give you an edge to line up the marks you make on your plywood, so if you’d rather just
After cutting the steel, we’ll drill holes into both the plywood and the unistrut and use flat head screws to put them together.
Line the cut edge against the strut, clamp and drill through the holes before adding a cone shaped hole through the bottom, making sure that the screws are below the surface. Alternatively, you could use glue of some kind, although I’d still recommend adding at least a screw on both ends. Now to finish it off. We’ll run the circular saw with the larger side of the plate against the strut and cut across the table.
Now you only need to line up your cut edge to the line you need to cut, and you’ll get a perfect cut every time.
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Code: VVMH5%OFF (5% off on all VEVOR products)
Product link: https://s.vevor.com/bfQoxo
*More sizes:* https://s.vevor.com/bfQv9V
Although there is a Vevor affiliate program, I do _not_ make any money off of this table. This review is my opinion and I was _not_ paid for a good review.
************
Link in the description:
3/4" Brand Point Bit → amzn.to/47bklso
As an amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
************
00:00 Intro
00:29 1. Out of the box
01:54 2. The Build
04:24 3. Shop worthy?
06:28 4. A few improvements
12:51 5. Final thoughts
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#bench #review #makethings
The miter saw…is kind of the ugly step son of the radial arm saw that everyone forgets to invite to the family reunion. While the table saw does a lot of the small crosscut work, the miter saw is the power lifter…the guy you bring in when your stock is 8 feet long and needs to be 3 feet. The problem with these saws is that there can be quite a bit of tear out that comes with each cut. The band aid solution is to spend more on blades with more teeth…which does work, when the teeth are at their sharpest.
A second solution is to use the same formula we use when we have tear out for both bandsaws and table saws: A zero clearance insert. We’ll take the insert that came with the saw and attach it to a piece of scrap that’s the same thickness using carpet tape. With a centering drill bit, we’ll add holes through the insert, into the scrap. Add a few screws into these temporary holes to secure it and we’ll bright it to the router table. Flush cut bits are perfect for this as you only need to set the bearing height to be that of your insert, and a quick run through and you’re to shape.
Because screws are often sunk into inserts, we’ll set our table saw to thin the edges. Now we just need to insert it back in and make our cut.
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We’ve covered making easy homemade dowels, but what about safely making half dowels? I made a bandsaw sled that allows you to split dowels, but if you only need two halves, it’s a lot to make just to split one. Instead, we’ll go to the router.
I have a board that’s the thickness of the half dowel that I need and I’ll use a round over bit that’s half the size. I want to make a 3/4” dowel, so I’ll use a 3/8’s round over bit. I’ll set the bit so that it’s half of the intended dowel size and line my bearing up with the fence. After making the first past, I’ll flip it for the second.
Back at the table saw I can safely set my fence to be the halfway point of the round that I created…and it’s as easy as running it through the table saw.
An alternative to this is to use a half round bit. I don’t find it to be as clean as the round over unless you make multiple passes.
The nice thing about this is that not only can you create half dowels, but it works really good at creating large dowels as you just need to glue two halves together. Using this method you can make cylinders that are either cheaper than what you can find in the store…or unique by your own imagination.
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All wood, soft or hard, burns when it gets hot. The location of the burn is worse as we move from the figure of the grain to the end as the end grain is more dense and tightly packed, which creates great friction and…things heat up. This is why routing or sanding is worse as we move to the ends. Obviously the easiest way to prevent this is to create a situation where the wood is more easily cut and removed. Sharper blades, bits and clean paper will achieve this better as there is less friction as these tools work.
We’ve talked about removing the pitch from table saw blades: soak in laundry soap and brush off. The same is true with router and drill bits. Rubber bars can be used to clean sandpaper. Making quicker cuts, using coarser sandpaper also work as well as allowing things to cool off during long uses of a machine. But let’s say you’ve done all of that and you’re still facing some problems. Try using a little bit of mineral spirits on your stock and give it a little bit of time to soak in. Mineral spirits, and even water, keeps things cool as you use it and evaporates when you’re done.
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I rarely need to make a long piece of stock square on one edge, but even a shorter piece that’s half the width of my 4’ jointer can be troublesome if there’s a crook in it. To get a nice square edge, pick up a piece of melamine shelving that’s at least 6 inches wide and preferably edge banded on all sides as exposed melamine can swell with moisture in time. I’ve never found melamine to be anything less than square, but you can check the edge on the store floor before you hand over the cash.
If you’ve got shelving that’s the length or shorter than your stock, and your table saw works, you’ve got the best method I’ve found to get a good, straight edge. Using either double sided carpet tape or hot glue, attach your stock to the shelving. If you find your stock is twisted, you can use shims found in the window and door department between your stock and the melamine, again by hot gluing or adding tape. Once the first side is done, detach your stock and run it through on the side you just cleaned.
The only thing that you really need to worry about is storing your melamine so that it doesn’t get bumped or dinged. If you find that one side has been damaged, add an arrow that points to the good side.
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If a hole is going to be visible, you can hide it or embellish it by adding a plug. A plug cutter creates a disk that can easily be added to hide a hole. But wait, why not just use a dowel. A cut off from a dowel gives us end grain instead of face grain, which absorbs more finish and becomes darker…it also doesn’t have any figure to it. If you’re not looking for any kind of pattern, a dowel is an easy fix. But if you are looking to hide the hole or embellish it by keeping the figure, here are a few tips to use when cutting plugs:
1. Plug cutting is still cutting a hole. But unlike a forstner bit that steadies the cutter head, these hollow bits need the stock to be clamped down.
2. Use a thicker piece of stock and partially drill in. This will allow you to cut it to size later on and it won’t have tear out on the backside…something that happens naturally if you cut straight through.
3. If your bit gets hot, it’s likely to expand creating plugs that are slightly larger. Keeping the press at its lowest setting keeps the heat down… use water if you’re doing several plugs.
4. Use cut offs from the original stock drilled to get a better match.
5. For a cleaner cut, use vaseline. Adding a little lubrication reduces friction which keeps bits sharper and even allows duller bits to cut a little cleaner.
6. Finally, to make the plugs blend a little easier, use a sander after gluing them in to fill any gaps.
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If you want a vertical hole that’s 90 degrees, the drill press is the place to start. But not every project can fit under the spinning chuck. Instead we need to bring the drill press to the project we’re working on by creating a template on a piece of stock. We can do this by taking a thick piece of scrap and drilling the hole we need to make with our drill press. Using either twist or brad point bits, we can transfer the hole by clamping or holding the stock down as we drill.
Besides drilling into horizontal planes that won’t fit under the drill press, we can also take vertical pieces and drill more precise holes. To drill a perfectly centered hole in the end of a piece of round steel, take a piece of thick square scrap and clamp it down. Drill an outer hole that fits on the rod, and follow it with the correct hole we need to add. Slide the block over the rod to drill a perfect center hole.
To drill out end accurate holes in rectangular stock, cut a piece of the stock off, clamp the cutoff to the table add your holes. Use a vise grip pad to attach and then drill the holes out.
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While the drill press outshines the hand drill in vertical accuracty, it can still fail to drill a 90˚ hole. Back in bitesize number 37 we talked about locking the drill press table before every use as the table actually droops a couple degrees when it’s unlocked. But even after locking the table, we’re contending with another beast that is much more formidable than a sagging table.
Drill bits, no matter the material used or the diameter, have a higher chance of flexing the farther the bit is placed away from the chuck. Thicker drill bits struggle less with this which is why drill bits get shorter as the diameter shrinks.
Depending on the chuck depth capacity for either your drill press or drill, you can give yourself a better chance of getting a straighter hole, the farther you chuck your bit in. Larger bits are pretty safe in most woods chucked a couple inches in, but smaller diameter drill bits…I’ve found a trick for it. Chuck troublesome bits in so that you leave yourself with about a 1/4” hanging out. Start your hole and drill down until you almost hit the chuck. Then reposition the bit lower and drill again. Giving yourself a countersunk hole helps to keep the rest of the drill bit in position as you finish the hole.
This tip is especially vital for harder materials, like steel.
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Blame it on cartoons, but from a very early age I’ve always wanted an anvil. Four years ago I picked up this guy for about $200 with shipping…they now go for over $500. If you’re primary work is with wood…should you buy one? Definitely. The last thing you want to do is clean up the end of a nail on the top of your bench. But you can skip the expensive, heavy one and get one for about twenty bucks.
While it’s true that most steel bench vises have a small anvil pad on the back of them, it’s really nice to have one with a large face that you can set on your bench and use when the occasion arises. I’ve used mine to add a center punch for a hole I needed to drill in a piece of steel…and it’s nice to be able to lay it down to add my marks instead trying to hold the steel and punch in my hand as I swing. I’ve used it to straighten steel, remove burrs and blunt nails.
I’ve seen some people mount their anvil to a piece of plywood and then cinch it in their vise, but these guys really don’t need much and can sit on your bench. Because they’re made with iron, they’ll absorb a lot of the blow keeping your bench top safe. Mine sits there waiting at the bottom of my bench…it’s a great addition to every woodworker’s shop. And there’s a rumor that they’re also good at keeping coyotes away.
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Tutor the Barbarian
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You can also find it here → youtu.be/NkYgF1t_Rx4
Check out my other channel @makethingswithrob
Every once in a while, even the ardent of dedicated woodworkers will need to add a machined screw hole in a piece of metal when making things. We’ll quickly go over the process and best practices for doing this. You’ll need 3 materials before getting started. The tap, the CORRECT drill bit and oil. You can buy a large set of tap and dies, but if you only need a single hole, buy a drill bit and tap combo…trust me, it’ll make your life much easier. These larger kits do not come with drill bits normally and being off by a 64th of an inch can be detrimental. These kits are fool proof.
Tapping a hole should almost always be done with a drill press or a lathe as you’re making precise threaded holes and need to have things perfectly parallel. Start off by drilling your hole…this part is easy. With the tap, chuck it in a drill press or your lathe and add oil to the hole. Turn the chuck by hand and let it catch in the steel, but don’t push it. Back it out a half turn, and twist it back in again. This process is known as breaking the chips and you’ll do it every time you feel the steel catch. After a few turns add more oil…you really can’t have too much of this stuff.
A good trick, if you can help it, is to catch your tap in your material and chuck up your tap in a vise, twisting the steel instead of the bit. If you’d like to see the complete process, I added screws to a flush chisel I made using this method in my latest video.
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"Playlist of all bitesize tips used" youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEBXNh1Ik9FmAtXaKOTWEl337QGwNPuNg
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If you ever add t-tracks to your jigs, you’ll likely need a clamp to hold your stock in place. They also work with t-tracks cut into the table tops of your machines. You can buy them, but they’re easy to make and they’ll feel like a million dollars every time you use them. To make one, you’ll need 4 pieces of stock and a 2x6 piece of scrap. We’ll glue the 4 pieces of stock together, leaving a gap in the center…which will later house our bolt. After things are dry, we’ll slice our block into 1/16 inch slices, using our thin strip jig. You’ll want 8 slices altogether.
We’ll make a form by cutting this shape out and add a piece of scrap to the edge with 3 screws. Each piece of strip will need to be trained, or flexed, but then we can squeeze the pieces together. I like to use a little water spray bottle to give me more time with the glue up. At the end we’ll sandwich our form together and I found adding a thin dowel gets a tighter area in the crook.
To finish, I round the edges and cut it to size. But the real secret to these is adding a couple strips of tracker runner to the bottom side of the hold down clamps. Not only does it grip your stock really well, but it also lightens the pressure needed to hold things down which, in turn, prevents denting the top of your stock.
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If you’re framing a wall in a home, you start from zero, move in either 16 or 24 inches, and add a stud. You continue this process until that measurement is impossible to follow. For example a five foot wall can take two studs spaced at 24 inches apart, and then you finish the frame on the end. This creates odd spacing that isn’t symmetrical. Of course, to finish the wall, we add drywall, which hides the skeletal framing of the wall.
If you’re building fine furniture, a symmetrical system of additions is what can sometimes make or break your project aesthetically. It took me years to figure this trick out, even though I know it’s a relatively known trick. If you need to space objects between two planes evenly, take the number of objects that will be added and add 1. For example, I needed to add screws to a chisel I made. I wanted to add 3 machine screws between a 4 and a 1/4” inch handle. Like bitesize number 110, I converted my inches to metric and divided by 4…which is, of course, one more than 3. That gives me 27mm, allowing me even spacing for my screws.
I wish I would have known this many years ago when I experimented with spacing until I found even distances.
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Playlist of all bitesize tips used → youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEBXNh1Ik9FmxebTLPiGh8-GyW-mCflXc
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There are a lot of things to consider when you’re picking up a blade for your table saw. In this video, we’ll discuss blade thickness. There are basically 3 different thicknesses here in the states. We have the 1/8th inch, the 3/32 inch and finally the 1/16” inch. All are important depending on what stock you’re using when it’s time to make a cut.
The 1/8th inch is the most stable blade that will give you, hands down, the cleanest cuts. But this comes at a huge cost as it can bog down your saw if you’re using thick stock or if you have an underpowered saw…which can lead to burns as well as kickbacks. You can get around this by making several cuts, but the reason I shy away from them most of the time is due to the amount of wood you lose with each cut.
If we step down to the 3/32”, we reduce the cut by 25% which gives us a blade that cuts quicker and reduces burning. Besides a more manageable cut, you’ll notice you have more stock to work with, especially if you’re cutting thin strips.
Finally, the 1/16th blade is the most practicable blade to use if you’re cutting precious woods, like ebony. They’re terrible for thick cuts but I end up making many passes…there’s really no good reason to waste exotic wood, especially if you’re using it to make accents in your projects.
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A caul is a clamping aid used to apply pressure evenly to stock during glue up. They’re simple to make but only effective depending on how you use them with your clamps. If you’re using cauls to clamp along the surface of your stock with f-clamps every few inches, a couple of flat boards with parallel sides is all that you need to uniformly add pressure along an entire glue up.
The second way to use cauls is to put pressure down over the surface of an otherwise difficult to clamp area, like an area with a large surface. Cambered cauls rely on the outer edges being more narrow than the center. When pressure is put down on the ends, pressure is squeezed along the entire board allowing a set of clamps to get the job done. There are some big, very complicated jigs you can use to cut cauls, but we can accomplish the same thing with a single thumb tack.
To make cambered cauls, cut stock to the distance needed for your glue ups, adding a tack to your stock, an inch in from the end. Press the blade up next to the center of your caul and cut one way, repeating the process on the opposite side.
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My bench build → youtu.be/m64L1i6doZA
Link in the description:
Planing Stop → makethingswithrob.com/planing-stop
Quad Screw Vise → makethingswithrob.com/make-an-advanced-moxon-double-screw-vise
Adv Bench Hook → makethingswithrob.com/advanced-bench-hook
Board Jack → makethingswithrob.com/board-jack-deadman-bench-appliance
Magnetic appliance → youtu.be/ml0z8GMOpgQ
Bench Vise Handle → youtu.be/PW0n8EU0Ud0 (Video) amzn.to/3D99rq5 (Steering wheel spinner on Amazon)
As an amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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00:00 Intro
01:03 1. The Planing Stop Appliance
02:04 2. Moxon Vise: The Greatest Bench Appliance?
03:01 3. Bech Hook Fit for Japanese Saws
03:52 4. You NEED a Board Jack
04:46 5. Bench Stop & Dovetail Hold Down
05:39 6. Hold Things Fast Without Clamps
06:37 7. You Need a Magnetic Bench Appliance
07:32 8. Dog Hole Dowel Bench Light
08:23 9. Add a Handle to your Vise Handle
09:21 10. Friction Bench Boards for Better Cuts
10:16 Credits
#makethings #fullsizetips #makethingswithrob
9 MORE Bench tips → youtu.be/be3tEmpPK6Q
Celebrity Wood Puns: Spruce Willis
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As we’ve talked about before, the bench is the center of your shop. The last thing you want to do to it is damage the surface. To use a circular saw to break down large pieces of stock, I use to clamp it to my bench top with the stock hanging over the edge. The first 2/3’s of the cut usually went well until the stock started sagging, and then it would catch, there’d be kick back or the wood would crack…it wasn’t good.
The real trick to cutting stock is to keep the part you’re cutting and the part you’re separating, on the same plane. The cut you make shouldn’t cause any movement at all. This, of course, is how miter and radial arm saws work safely.
To create the same method where both stock pieces stay on the same plane, I use a few pieces of plywood that’s coated on both sides with something you can buy pretty much at any big box hardware store: Tracker runner. It’s a carpet material that has a rubber backing used to grip flooring.
You add mod podge to the carpet side and then to both sides of your 3/4” piece of plywood and give it a squeeze for a few hours. The grippy boards grip your stock and the table and prevents movement. I’ve found I can use a router on the top of these, sand stock as well as holding a vise as I cut steel without using any clamps. It’s a great addition to add to the rest of your bench appliances.
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The simplest way to finish a project, usually without fail, is by using an oil finish. The oil soaks into the fibers creating deep, colorful patterns that highlights both the wood’s chatoyance as well as figure. If you’re new to woodworking, this is where I’d start.
But the problem that oils have is that they do very little to actually protect the wood they’re covering. Danish oil, which is a fusion of an oil and varnish, does a pretty good job of enriching the wood, but still isn’t enough to keep dirt away, and they’re not great with moisture. Some will suggest multiple layers of danish oil, but you’re looking at several days to finish a project as each coat takes up to 24 hours.
Recently, I started using danish oil but instead of adding a couple coats, I allow it to dry over the 24 hour time period and add a layer of paste wax. It's not like adding a layer of polyurethane, but it does a much better job of repelling water, and it can also be buffed for an incredible luster.
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To build the Simple Screw Vise → makethingswithrob.com/make-a-moxon-double-screw-vise
To build the Quad Screw Vise → makethingswithrob.com/make-an-advanced-moxon-double-screw-vise
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One of the greatest bench appliances that man has created, has to be the double screw vise. If not the greatest…it’s in the top 5. It works like this: you have a removable vise that easily clamps to the surface. This does a few things for you: First, it raises the work off the bench getting you close to your stock, which puts your arm in a better position to saw. Second, it gives you a full throat of space to clamp instead of the shallow spot a single screw vise gives you. Finally, it leaves the surface of your bench free when you don’t need it.
But what if we add a second, horizontal vise to the top? This will allow us to work on not only the end grain of the joint, but allows us to work on the face. We can even use both faces to get the highly sought after 90˚ angle. Add some grippy carpet runner and we can reduce the pressure needed to clamp things in place. We can ditch the holdfasts and f-clamps needed to hold it on the bench if we add a non threaded hex bolt and string it into a dog hole.
I’ve created a full video dedicated to the double screw vise, also known as the Moxon vise. I’ve dug through history to find some interesting bits of information, found out why it’s called the “Moxon” vise, I also explain how it’s meant to be used and show you how I added my own ideas to help improve workflow.
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In a 2D universe it’s easy to map out lines. Find where two points need to meet and draw a connecter. For the most part, two dimensions make up the bulk of every shop. Add a mark to drill a hole, add a line to cut stock. But oftentimes we need to travel into the 3rd dimension. In my latest video, I had to transfer lines from the top of my stock to the bottom, using a square to carefully move my line. I usually get my transfer right, so I’m not saying it can’t be done.
But what if we switch to a 3 dimensional piece of stock, like a wood angle? By creating a wood dowel, we get this cool little wooden byproduct. We’ll make sure it’s cut square but now we can easily move our lines from the top of our stock to the side, use our line as a reference and tag our bottom.
This is a simple use for this but we can take this a little farther by adding angles. If I cut it at a 45˚ angle, I can now transfer a diagonal for a miter cut. If I cut it to a 12˚ angle, I can use it map out lines for dovetails.
I can even drill a few holes staggered on the edge that are large enough for my pencil to fit into, and draw exact widths on the side or top of my stock.
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The Moxon LEGACY → youtu.be/VdQLdu0gz_w
Tips and techniques used in this video → youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEBXNh1Ik9FlwiQLCyojRAZ8MfiaOiMoU
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A big challenge that comes with working with smaller pieces of stock is being able to sand without removing a layer of your own skin or nail in the process. Adding a sanding block to a vise works, but with their small surfaces, they really only work for very small items. If you have a dog hole on the front of your bench you can make what I call a dog sanding board. I screwed a piece of thin stock to the front of a piece of plywood that will hold the jig tight against the table. With a spade bit I marked the location of the dog hole from the bottom up and moved the mark a 32nd towards the edge. This makes it clamp on after I’ve added my 3/4 inch dowel.
If you have a vise, the same can easily be done by clamping the stock you added and bypassing the dowel completely.
The plywood is the width and a less length of a piece of standard sandpaper. To clamp it on fold the edges of the sandpaper and add a couple f-clamps.
Besides being able to clean the face of small things easily, I even found I could sharpen dull chisels with the finer sandpaper I bought in a multipack.
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Check out the review of the Goehner's vise (spoiler, I love this vise) → youtu.be/n49DXbqTJUQ
Why did the carpenter break up with his hammer? He said it was hitting all the wrong nails.
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Bench vises come in a variety of different types. If you work with wood, you more than likely have a carpenter style vise. These vises sit flush with the bench surface, and clamp objects with wide surface areas. Carpenter style vises, however, aren’t meant to clamp steel or small, abnormal shapes. In this case, you really want a mechanic’s vise, which are made out of steel and sit on the bench top. But adding a bench vise to the surface of your woodworking bench limits surface area for larger projects.
We can cheat by turning a smaller mechanic’s vise into a bench appliance which allows us to use it and store it away from the bench top. There’s a couple ways to do this. If you have a carpenter style vise, you can add a block of wood to the underside of a piece of stock. This will allow you to clamp it when you need it. A bonus for making this is that it can be mounted vertically. A second option is to use a dog hole. The bolt goes in, pinning an attached block of wood to the front of the table.
A bonus for either option is that as a bench appliance, they can also be used as a drill press vise. I recently did a review for an inexpensive, small and lightweight vice that works really well with this jig.
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*Links to get this vise!*
5% discount (Don't forget to hit the coupon!) → Amazon link: amazon.com/Workbench-Combination-Construction-Woodworking-Workshop/dp/B09W562D5Q
20% discount (use code:Bravextool20) → bravextools.com/products/4-5-bench-vise-for-workbench
Link in the description ↓
Vise Jigs and Hack → youtu.be/jVp9jVux9G8
Bench Magnet Appliance → youtu.be/NyT318GPbC4
Come check out my website for free jigs/tools and other ideas → makethingswithrob.com
Send me an email, I love emails! → mail@makethingswithrob.com
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My workbench is the centerpiece of my shop. I glue, stain, finish, buff, build, and even cut steel with it. While I’ve heard some people claim that cutting steal should be done far away from my bench, there’s an obvious bench appliance to keep nearby to clean up any spent steel: the almighty tool holder magnet bar. This one comes from Harbor Freight and picks up even the tiniest slivers from the bench top.
Because it is just u-channel with several rectangular magnets lining the inside, I decided to add a handle. I took off 2 magnets in all and cut the edges of the u-channel up to the magnets. This gives me a metal tang that I can use to slide into a handle.
After drilling a couple holes, I used split dowels with purpleheart wedges to hold everything together. Cleaning the bench off after cutting steel is a swipe and it’s put back away. If I run a metal detector over the top of the surface, it doesn’t go off…because the steel is gone.
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*Link in the description* ↓
Buy tape online ↓
- 12” tape (temp): amzn.to/3XyD10C
- 12’ measuring (permanent) tape: amzn.to/3H513cq
- 6” steel ruler: amzn.to/3HXn0uy
Lock down toggle clamp → youtu.be/TIXVCQD_f6I
Sliding Dovetail Stop Block Track → youtu.be/V-6e8h039wk
Marking Gauge (no cutting!) → makethingswithrob.com/make-a-marking-gauge
Bandsaw combo sled → makethingswithrob.com/adv-bandsaw-sled
As an amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Check out my website, filled full of free plans (except for the Gear Stool) → makethingswithrob.com
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00:00 Intro
00:50 1. DIY expansion slots
01:45 2. Linking wood and steel
02:36 3. Cotter Butt hinge hack
03:17 4. No sag, precision perfect...hinges
04:13 5. Hanger bolts link metal to wood
05:02 6. Perfect measurement addons
05:55 7. 9 Tips for t-tracks
06:56 8. Never inlay hex nuts
07:53 9. Make better toggle clamps
08:50 10. Making your own tracks
09:45 BONUS: Magnets
10:41 Credits
#tips #hacks #tricks


