John Heisz - I Build It
ULTIMATE Knife Sharpener? Genius idea!
updated
The design is what I think of as unbalanced symmetry, where the top and bottom don't match each other, but are symmetrical on their own. The top has the geometrical illusion of depth, but the bottom presents a flatter view. The top is more elaborate while the bottom is simple. This works well with this particular poster and I designed the frame specifically for it.
It's a fairly large frame (around 40" x 30") and the corners on the bottom are reinforced with splines. A cleat was let in across the angled pieces that make up the top corners to reinforce those joints. The outer frame is a continuous band of cherry that also adds strength.
The finish is a coat of boiled linseed oil to start and then three sprayed on coats of water based polyurethane. Oil brings out the rich colour of the walnut and cherry, darkening them before the water based poly is sprayed on to build a protective layer.
It is hung on the wall with a single French cleat that fits into a recess routed in the back of the top of the frame using a dovetail router bit.
While this frame is unusually fancy for a poster, it doesn't have any glass. The poster itself is just taped to the back of the frame.
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I had just finished the lighted sunburst wood panel ceiling in the stairwell when I immediately started working on the doorway into the stairs.
Although it doesn't have a door, it is framed for one and I thought it would be perfect to act as the entry into what has become my wonderland of escape from the world.
These stairs go to my dedicated room for listening to music, reading and watching movies, all completely disconnected from the internet and other modern distractions.
The trim design matches the ceiling I just finished:
youtu.be/ykiFRO9WAi0
And the shelving I built for my movie collection:
youtu.be/jvjqeyT3rjc
While the moulding profile and details are not overly ornate, the trim does have a number of parts.
- The jambs are just 1/2" maple veneer plywood, although solid maple would have been better.
- The casings are made up of three pieces to form the stepped profile, with more of the maple ply as the centre.
- The head is two piece with a crown that has the same chamfered profile as the one I used on the shelves.
- There are a pair of tampered decorative blocks in the corners of the jambs that pick up the tapered sunburst rays in the ceiling and give it a subtle Art Deco feel.
- Solid maple plinth blocks on the entry side of the opening complete the look.
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This project proves that the best laid plans don't always guarantee success. I did a lot of planning before I started, but still managed to waste half a sheet of fairly expensive plywood.
Some of that goes back to when I was first thinking about doing this ceiling and at that time I thought I would use painted MDF instead of plywood. The painted MDF panels could be used with either side facing down and I wouldn't have to worry about orientation. Or at least that's the excuse I'm going with.
Fact is it was a simple (but costly) mistake and it's a rare project that doesn't have at least one.
Turning to the positive, I love this ceiling and think it was well worth the time and effort. And while the mistake I made did increase the cost, I think it was insignificant when I look at the finished results.
I'm able to picture things in my mind's eye before I start, and usually the end result is almost as good, but this time it was better. Better after I changed the centre panel, that is.
The slots I cut in that panel and making it a tray with sides to give it extra dimension really completed the look.
The plywood I used is 1/2" maple veneer. The individual parts weight very little and are solidly glued to the mounting blocks, which are also solidly glued and screwed to the ceiling.
The finish is two coats of semi-gloss water based urethane sprayed on, lightly sanded after the first coat dried. This produces a very smooth durable finish.
The lighting is just two LED shop lights mounted back to back to cast the light sideways across the ceiling.
Another project that I did in this staircase are the shelves I made for my movie collection:
youtu.be/jvjqeyT3rjc
These stairs go down to my basement where I've set up a room for listening to music, watching movies and shows and reading:
youtube.com/watch?v=dsIqbJ55Z0k
The room is a sanctuary away from the rest of the world with no internet access. No phones either.
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The panels of the headboard and footboard are joined to the legs with sliding dovetails. The dovetails mechanically hold the joint together, while also allowing the panels to expand and contract with seasonal moisture changes.
I used traditional joinery rather than metal hardware to put the bed together. The rails have tenons on each end that goes through the legs, and a walnut wedge locks the parts together.
The slats that support the mattress are 1/2" thick and 4" wide strips of solid hickory and these rest on cleats fastened to the rails. I cut spacer blocks to fit between each slat to keep them separated.
The bowties were added to the headboard as a decorative element.
I used water-based polyurethane to finish the wood, spraying on three coats with a light sanding between coats.
This bed was designed to match the night tables I made a few months ago:
youtu.be/Py0hZth0aCg
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I needed to inlay some decorative bowties and came up with a way to use a standard guide bushing set to do it.
I used a 1/4" straight cutting bit with two difference size guide bushings - a 5/16" outer diameter one and a 51/64" outer diameter.
You'll use the 5/16" bushing to cut the inlay, carefully cutting around the perimeter using the template.
Then you use the same bit and template to cut the recess that the inlay fits into, but switch the guide bushing for the 51/64" size.
It's as easy as that.
Most imperial guide bushing sets have a 51/64" bushing. I had to cut mine shorter to work with the 1/4" thick template, but that's the only modification I did.
The beauty of this method is that it uses one template to do both operations, guaranteeing a precise match and fit. Using one template also makes it quicker to do, and reduces the chances of mistakes.
There may be other bit and bushing combinations that work, and if you know one let me know in the comments.
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High lumber prices putting the brakes on your creative endeavours?
Got too many small parts cluttering up your existence?
Is cardboard becoming a real problem due to all of the crap you buy on Amazon that you don't need?
Well, here's the solution!
You can actually make some pretty sweet stuff from cardboard, like this nifty parts organizer with drawers. You say it won't last, but you, my friend, would be dead wrong - it will last for years, even with regular use. And you can get a lot more fancy than I did here, and be much more selective about the quality of the cardboard you use. It's FREE, after all!
Next: a cardboard table saw!!
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This is an easy to make, compact and low cost way to effectively clean the air in your small shop. I bought the parts for mine for less than $100, and that includes the fan and the two filters.
I mounted it on the ceiling pointing down toward my table saw to pump a supply of fresh clean air in while I'm making a cut. And I made it so that it will turn on when I turn on the lights in my shop, so it will be working continuously to filter and move the air in the shop.
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Website: ibuildit.ca
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▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
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I made this jointer using the cutter head from my old, broken thickness planer and scrap plywood. The other parts were salvaged or I had them already.
I originally bought the motor to build a new table saw, but used it for this instead. I did have an old pump motor that would have been powerful enough, but it spun the wrong way and was too difficult to reverse. I had the steel for the infeed and outfeed tables for several years, again bought to build a new table saw.
This video is compilation of 11 videos I made while building the jointer 5 years ago. It took me several months to finish, and those videos are spread out over that time.
The jointer has been working problem-free since I built it and gets used regularly.
Here's a playlist for those original videos, if you want more details:
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkBNR47uEZ7QkKEuPrgF0i63mNDhVT0re
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
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While there's nothing wrong with my older fence design, I thought that this one would be an interesting challenge - to make a self-squaring fence that locks on the back as well as the front. I've had a number of people who have asked if this could be done and I figured now is as good a time as any to answer that!
Yes, it can! And it works beautifully.
See the build article for this project for more details: ibuildit.ca/projects/locking-table-saw-fence
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Four 12" infinite baffle subwoofers fill in the bass from 20Hz to 80Hz
They are fully active with digital crossovers for the ultimate in fine tuning capability and sonic purity.
If audio and speaker building a subject that you are interested in, check out my audio channel:
youtube.com/c/IBuildIt
The music at the end is an actual recording in my listening room of these speakers. The recording very closely matches the original music if you play that directly, demonstrating the fidelity and accuracy of the speakers.
These speakers are fairly big, but completely disappear when playing and project the most realistic soundstage I've ever experienced. A big part of that is the room treatment that reduces reverb time in the low frequencies and eliminates destructive reflections.
While big speakers don't have a high Wife Acceptance Factor, in my opinion they are the only way to get realistic sound reproduction in a room at any listening level.
I made them from cherry that has an even heartwood / sapwood mix and oriented the layers so that the edge grain of the board (rather than the face grain) faces out. The corners overlap to add strength, but also for because I think it looks cool.
They are finished with a total of 5 sprayed on layers of oil based polyurethane to bring out the rich colour and grain of the wood.
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CMT Thin Kerf Table and Miter Saw Blades: https://lddy.no/15st6
CMT Full Kerf Table and Miter Saw Blades: https://lddy.no/15st7
CMT ½” Shank Router Bits used in this video: https://lddy.no/15st8
CMT ¼” Shank Router Bits used in this video: https://lddy.no/15st9
CMT Sign Bits used in this video: https://lddy.no/15stb
For an Additional 10% off use promo code: CMT10
Another way to cut the folding miter is to use a dado blade tilted to 45 degrees. That's what I was going to do in the first place, before I noticed the V-groove bit. The V-groove bit takes longer to make the cuts, though, and router bits get dull a lot faster than blades.
While it takes some time to cut the folding miters, it takes no time at all to assemble - just fold and tape the miters. This method would work just as well for larger drawers made from thicker plywood, but you'd want to use that dado blade instead of the router bit to speed things up.
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Seriously, it's spinning at around the same speed as it would be on a bench grinder and still has a guard (under the saw) much like that does. It's a little more open on top but this isn't and would not be for heavy duty grinding. It's for sharpening which is light grinding. An insert for the table saw that fits neatly around the wheel is a good idea.
That said, if you do decide to do this, it's YOUR responsibility. If something goes wrong, you are to blame - no one forced you to do it and if you think it's not safe don't do it.
Anyway, it works great. I was able to sharpen 5 sets of knives for my jointer and planer and that's a total replacement cost of over $300. The planer knives are the disposable types that aren't made to be sharpened, but I've found that you can sharpen these at least once and more, depending on how much you need to grind off to restore the edge.
Taking it to the next level on the stone and then stropping is optional, but doesn't take long and seems to be worth it. At a minimum you need to get rid of the wired edge that grinding produces.
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Here's the "old" one: youtu.be/aj--xz6X16s
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99¢ Woodworking Sale: rlnk.cc/jh99cwoodworkingsale
This is the new version of an older idea - a ready to use track for making accurate crosscuts on the table saw using a cordless saw. It swings down over the stock that needs to be cut and is self adjusting. When it's not needed, it swings up against the wall out of the way.
I still need to make a clamping system for smaller panels (especially angled cuts) and an outfeed table for support under the track.
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CMT Thin Kerf Table and Miter Saw Blades: https://lddy.no/15st6
CMT Full Kerf Table and Miter Saw Blades: https://lddy.no/15st7
CMT ½” Shank Router Bits used in this video: https://lddy.no/15st8
CMT ¼” Shank Router Bits used in this video: https://lddy.no/15st9
CMT Sign Bits used in this video: https://lddy.no/15stb
For an Additional 10% off use promo code: CMT10
Cut dadoes the fast easy way and get a perfect fit every time. Best if this jig is made this size for narrow stock, but also longer for wider panels. Like I said in the video, a longer one would need the locking clamp on both ends to keep it from opening up. I'll be making the longer version in an upcoming video.
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Website: ibuildit.ca
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▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
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▶️ Patreon:
patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
▶️ Join my Makers Mob for detailed build tutorials:
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I made this sharpener back in 2017 and I think the way it works is pretty neat.
Original video: youtu.be/pUebee1dpTE
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
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Website: ibuildit.ca
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CMT Thin Kerf Table and Miter Saw Blades: https://lddy.no/15p5m
CMT Full Kerf Table and Miter Saw Blades: https://lddy.no/15p5n
CMT ¼” Shank Router Bits: https://lddy.no/15p5o
CMT ½” Shank Router Bits: https://lddy.no/15p5p
These are bedroom night tables and are the first phase in a complete bedroom set that includes a bed and dresser. They are made mostly from solid ash with some 1/4" plywood and solid walnut for accents. The style is modern with simple, clean lines and a minimum of decoration.
They have a single wide and shallow drawer and no lower shelf to collect clutter.
How I made my tapering jig: youtu.be/H7QWLfcEsz4
My Norm Abram style crosscut sled: youtu.be/SSMLPQ3GNXg
Making my own joinery biscuits: youtu.be/lKQo7GUbxts
Building a wooden band saw: youtu.be/-hVw8mpt9N0
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
▶️Support the work I do on Locals:
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Whenever you make something that you used to buy, it's like making money.
Requires a 4" hole saw and I just happen to have one. Took roughly 30 minutes to make nearly 50, but half of that time was building the simple fixture on my drillpress.
These are made from ash and the grain goes directly perpendicular to the joint for maximum strength. Store bought biscuits have the grain running on an angle. These are also slightly bigger and fill the mortise more precisely.
Of course you can make any size biscuit with the same hole saw and it would be a good idea to build a more refined fixture than the rough and ready one I slapped together in this video.
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
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It's an idea that I've been mulling over for a couple of years, and the key feature is the spacer blocks that you use to size it accurately.
Also a tricky method for locking the rails together took a fair bit of deep thought, but works amazingly well. It is a bit challenging to make, given the small size of the parts.
After you have it sized, it can be clamped down or use double sided tape if clamps won't reach. Or hot melt glue, if you don't have any tape.
The spacer blocks can be taped down too, if you just have lines on whatever you are routing out.
Changes I'd make if I made it again:
- Upsize everything by a factor of 1.5. Even though it isn't, it feels and looks flimsy.
- Get real metal insert knobs and the locking bolt epoxied to the aluminum locking pawl. Or tap the pawl and use a knob with a stud. Then the pawl should be steel for the threads to last.
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
▶️Support the work I do on Locals:
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The unique feature is the quick release tensioner. With a simple flip of a lever it releases the tension on the blade.
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Too tricky to film much of the install, so I went with pictures instead, except when it came to installing the trim. Then I got the old mouth cam charged up and practiced holding my breath.
Filling the shelves: youtube.com/watch?v=yxFB62WWLYI
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It's compact and easy to store, and it's easy to make from common hardware and scrap wood. It took me less than an hour to make mine and cost virtually nothing.
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Watch part 1 here: youtu.be/ZeIlo2T7YMM
Part 2: youtu.be/1-e5nN1sGTk
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The mockup I made was just a plywood wheel with a screw as the axle. Very quickly made just to show on video how it would work. The wheel would be bigger and may have a rubber tire on the rim to grip the blade better. It would also be on a proper axle with bearings, as would the idler wheel.
If I do make something that uses this idea, it would be for the novelty of it, and not for a machine that has a practical purpose.
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Key design points:
- made entirely from scrap wood, plywood mostly
- fast and easy to put the router in and take it out again
- a convenient way to clamp it down to my work bench
- a proper fence with movable faces to close the gap around the bit
- use a base plate for the router that can stay on the router
Time will tell how often I use this table. Making it more convenient to use for small things than my big router table will go a long way.
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I sized the wheels so that when the tires are put on the total diameter will be 12"
Watch the first video in this series: youtu.be/ZeIlo2T7YMM
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https://ibuildit.ca/tips/cutting-mort...
How to make your chisels RAZOR sharp:
youtu.be/98czRMIAhd8
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It took my just a few hours to finish this and it's a fun project if you have a lathe. It can be made without a lathe, but it will have a more modern, blocky shape.
The arms can be made using a bent lamination, but it's tricking getting that exactly right to allow for spring back after it comes out of the form. The first one of these that I made (back in the early 90's) was made that way and I had to make the arms twice to get them close enough. Plywood is better and you can make your own for this - blanks for this one are 3" x 5", so fairly small.
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The centre section is made from two 6" ash boards and a hunk of thick walnut. The shelves are actually arms that cantilever out from the middle and being open promotes better ventilation.
I say 5 boards in the title because the walnut was an optional upgrade. I could have used the offcut ends from the ash boards to make those parts by gluing two thicknesses together.
The top / sides is one piece and it lifts off of the centre section so that I can hook everything up.
The dimensions: 21" high x 21" deep x 43" long.
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How many times have I taped or clamped a full sheet of sandpaper down on my bench only to have whatever I'm sanding catch on it and tear it? TOO many times! This simple project puts an end to that by holding the paper on all four edges making it impossible to snag.
--- Rather than non-slip stuff on the bottom I could add a cleat so that I could clamp it in my shoulder vise = better idea.
The framed sanding cushion bonus project was one that I've been meaning to do for several years. It needs a thin layer of rubbery non-slip stuff glued on the top to make it perfect. A layer of carpet underlay would work, but may be heavier than ideal. The foam makes this weigh nothing and that makes it easier and more convenient to use and put away.
--- Even just an old towel laid over the foam would keep the part from moving while it's being sanded. And then the towel would collect a lot of the dust and I could just bring it outdoors and shake it out = better idea!
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Neil Pasken (Pask Makes - youtube.com/c/PaskMakes) challenged me to do my take on his very popular small parts organizer. His has swing out drawers that rotate on a pivot and are triangular, while mine also has the same kind of drawers but they are rectangular and "butterfly" open. His is free standing while mine is designed to be mounted on a wall or the side of a cabinet, or sit on a shelf.
A fun project and actually very practical - these drawers will hold a lot of small parts and fasteners and operate smoothly. You can upsize it as well or make the drawers shorter which makes the cabinet narrower. I used maple and walnut but this can be made with any type of wood, even softwood.
See the build article for more detail: ibuildit.ca/projects/how-to-make-butterfly-drawers
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See the build article for more details: ibuildit.ca/projects/raised-panel-doors-on-the-table-saw
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I needed to sharpen two of my older thin kerf blades and used a simple plywood jig I made to do that on my table saw. The diamond grinding wheel is specially made for blade sharpening and it only takes a few minutes to set it up and do the sharpening.. The old saw blade cuts like new again after it's been sharpened.
Watch the longer, more detailed video here: youtu.be/zHtVT-phN5I
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The only tricky part is being patient and getting the fit perfect on the wheel. Everything else is simple, but first CHECK to make sure it will fit on your saw! Mine is homemade and can be modified, but you might not want to do that.
Building infinite baffle subwoofers: youtu.be/1hDV54c3tzA
Low speed grinding on the lathe: youtu.be/EGFJ6ToKY8c
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Unlike most of the ones you can buy, this one puts the clamping force exactly where it’s needed: across the miter, pushing it tightly closed. And you can make it in an afternoon from scraps and hardware you may already have.
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This was originally two videos and I combined them into one longer one.
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I don't sit at it; I'm in a recliner in front of it with my feet up, relaxed and chilled for editing video for long hours in comfort and style.
Stand up desk? Are you kidding? I stand up enough without doing it while I'm doing something I can be doing in a lazy boy.
Typical video like this one can take two days to edit and after doing this for 10 years I'm not even going to start unless the conditions are perfect. And this is as close as I've come, so far.
Just in this one room there are several projects I've done in the past. See if you can spot them all.
Key Parts:
CPU - Ryzen 7 5800X
MB - ASUS TUF GAMING B550M-ZAKU
RAM - CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB
GPU - MSI GeForce RTX 2080
NVME DRIVES - 2 - Intel 660p Series M.2 2280 512GB - one for system, one for video editing.
The cpu, cooler, motherboard, ram and one of the m.2 drives are new. I already had the power supply, other m.2 drive and other hard drives plus the graphics card from the previous editing computer.
This thing runs Davinci Resolve and that's pretty much it. I only turn it on when I need to edit video, so it's off most of the time. I have absolutely zero concerns about heat - there's great airflow through the case with that monster fan when it spins up, and it only spins up when a video is rendering.
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The sandpaper is a standard 9 x 11 sheet and is glued onto the 9" diameter disk with spray adhesive. I did this before (on that blade in the opening scene) and the spray adhesive does a great job of firmly holding the sandpaper on.
I only put sandpaper on one side, but you can do both and have a fresh surface ready to go when the first wears out. Or you can put a finer grit (or coarser) on the other side.
This produces very good results with 100 grit paper. It does still have swirls marks but they are very tiny and light hand sanding would quickly clean that up.
Where this really shines is with plywood, as you can see in the before / after photos in the video. My table saw with a sharp blade produces a very good cut, but that can be dramatically improved with this.
It also does a great job of jointing a straight edge on a board. It takes a few passes but it will get it done and it'll a silky smooth finish as well.
This setup lets you quickly edge sand stock of any width and up to as thick as the disk is sticking up, and is as fast a changing the blade on your saw.
In the video I cut high into the quick release auxiliary fence to make it look more dramatic, but I would recommend only going a bit higher than the stock you normally work with. This will give more support on either side of the blade for sanding shorter pieces. You can also wheel the disk all the way up without the fence and use it as a normal disk sander to shape parts.
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The hardest part is cutting it into pieces. I used my grinder with a thin cutting blade and no guard (responsible for his own actions adult here, so go find some children to lecture after I ban you from my channel), but sheet metal snips would also work. The easiest way would be if you have one of those metal cutting chop saws, but avoid using the one for cutting wood!
Actually you could use the miter saw if you used an old blade and made a hold rig like I did for the hacksaw - just cut through the holding rig and say your prayers.
I knew the hacksaw wouldn't work (even with a blade with more teeth) but built the holding rig to give it the best chance of working just to demonstrate that it wouldn't work. 'Cause I knew guys would ask if they can use a hacksaw. Try it for yourself. Do it!
Jigsaw with metal cutting blade? Yes, but more difficult.
Dremel? Yes, but you are going to need a big stack of cutting disks and an afternoon to do it.
I did this project VERY quickly, so it's not an example of my best work. You will realize superior results if you slow down and do a good job of cutting the parts and cleaning everything up.
The metal is fastened using 1/2" nails driven in as shown in the video. I used a center punch to start the hole and lock the parts together. This method is more than strong enough for whatever will be in these drawers, so don't be worrying it. Use tiny screws if this kind of thing keeps you up at night.
I decided after I started putting it together to add a bit of walnut to pretty it up. Think that the walnut takes the project overall from a 3 right up to a 7.5. Slowing down and being more careful could boost that to 8.5 or even a 9. 10 is reserved for anything with dovetails.
Of course these drawers can be made any length and have dividers inside. I used two different width as well.
If you a real metal worker, you can make these drawers without wood by cleverly bending up the ends. I was going to do that but thought this method was easier to accomplish for the average mess maker out in his mom's garage.
That blade change was going to be a YouTube short, but I HATE YouTube shorts so I put it where it belongs - in a real video.
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With everything I said in the video about how much time went into it, it's definitely worth it if you want something unique and different. I'm now thinking that I really should do the second wall in the kitchen (counter is "L" shaped) but use the panel method I described in the video. Still a ton of work, but then installing ceramic tiles isn't a walk in the park, either.
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Get the plans for this fabulous clamp: ibuildit.ca/plans/ultimate-wooden-clamp-plans
See more detail in the project build article: ibuildit.ca/projects/how-to-make-the-ultimate-wooden-clamp
If you make these, you'll never go back to using metal clamps again. I know I haven't. The difference is weight - these are half as heavy as the typical metal clamp, but are still capable of more than enough force for all of my woodworking tasks.
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As the car guys say: "There's no replacement for displacement!"
Thin panels only work on higher frequency sound and don't even put a dent in the real problems that exist in all small to mid-sized rooms. These are 5-1/2" (140MM) thick and are made to be spaced off the wall by that same amount. That gap between the panel and the wall makes the panel more effective, especially for lower frequency sound.
The interesting part of this build is how I fastened the cloth using the grooves and splines. I didn't want to use a billion staples to attach the cloth to separate frames and then try to figure out how to attach the frames to the boxes to make it all look neat. The splines worked perfectly and greatly simplified the process.
The thumbnail shows what I want to do on the front of these - a black and white rendition of 6 of my favourite albums. I haven't done that yet - I need to make (or have them made) stencils to paint the cloth.
You can watch this video with narration here:
youtu.be/ngAVxo1kQLw
It also has measurements from the room these panels were used in to show how much of a difference they made. Of course listening it is the real test and I can tell you that the improvement in the room is easy to hear.
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The spindle sander is already the right height, but occasionally needs to be out away from the wall to sand bigger parts. It pulls out on wooden full extension drawer slides that I designed.
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▶️ Join my Makers Mob for detailed build tutorials:
go.themakersmob.com/john-heisz-i-build-it/?via=ibuildit
My "Scrap bin" channel:
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Website: ibuildit.ca
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Making a wooden drag chain with a CNC for a CNC. I used 1/4" plywood from the crate the CNC was shipped in to make the parts.
CNC is from STEPCRAFT: stepcraft-systems.com/en
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
▶️Support the work I do on Locals:
ibuildit.locals.com
▶️ Patreon:
patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
▶️ Join my Makers Mob for detailed build tutorials:
go.themakersmob.com/john-heisz-i-build-it/?via=ibuildit
My "Scrap bin" channel:
youtube.com/c/IBuildItScrapBin
#ibuildit
#woodworking
Website: ibuildit.ca
Facebook: facebook.com/I-Build-It-258048014240900
Instagram: instagram.com/i_build_it.ca
See the project build article for more details: ibuildit.ca/projects/how-to-make-a-folding-light-stand
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
▶️Support the work I do on Locals:
ibuildit.locals.com
▶️ Patreon:
patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
▶️ Join my Makers Mob for detailed build tutorials:
go.themakersmob.com/john-heisz-i-build-it/?via=ibuildit
My "Scrap bin" channel:
youtube.com/c/IBuildItScrapBin
#ibuildit
#woodworking
Website: ibuildit.ca
Facebook: facebook.com/I-Build-It-258048014240900
Instagram: instagram.com/i_build_it.ca
▶️ Design inspiration for this build comes from a video by Cosmas Bauer: youtube.com/watch?v=kF0zPiCarq4
Probably the best feature of the plastic water tank is thick walled so it won't collapse when using it for this. It's also a large diameter - 23 inches - and that means that even when it's cut short like this, it still holds a lot. That collection capacity is around 20 gallons or 80 liters, which is more than one of those big garbage cans full.
Like I said, the Craftsman shop vac I used to power this is more than 30 years old. I bought it new and have been using it nearly every day since. It has tons of suction and can easily compensate for the efficiency loss when adding a cyclone separator.
The cyclone is a Thein baffle design and this works best when you have the large diameter. The obvious advantage is that it can be very short in height, so the entire unit can be very compact. That was a key point for my small shop, since I don't have the space for a full size dust collector.
I want this mobile to easily roll where needed in the shop and it will primary be used for dust creating operations, like sanding and CNC work. I won't be using this for major dust collection (table saw, planer, etc.) since I already have effective solutions in place for those. I also won't use it for general shop cleaning. That's what a broom and dust pan are for.
I wanted this to last and be ruggedly built without overbuilding it, and I guess having it fall off my workbench tested that. I also wanted it lightweight, compact and easy to move and use, and I think I managed to do that.
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
▶️Support the work I do on Locals:
ibuildit.locals.com
▶️ Patreon:
patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
▶️ Join my Makers Mob for detailed build tutorials:
go.themakersmob.com/john-heisz-i-build-it/?via=ibuildit
My "Scrap bin" channel:
youtube.com/c/IBuildItScrapBin
#ibuildit
#woodworking
Website: ibuildit.ca
Facebook: facebook.com/I-Build-It-258048014240900
Instagram: instagram.com/i_build_it.ca
More details in the project build article:
ibuildit.ca/projects/making-push-button-pop-up-bench-dogs
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans
▶️Support the work I do on Locals:
ibuildit.locals.com
▶️ Patreon:
patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
▶️ Join my Makers Mob for detailed build tutorials:
go.themakersmob.com/john-heisz-i-build-it/?via=ibuildit
My "Scrap bin" channel:
youtube.com/c/IBuildItScrapBin
#ibuildit
#woodworking
Website: ibuildit.ca
Facebook: facebook.com/I-Build-It-258048014240900
Instagram: instagram.com/i_build_it.ca