Embrace MakingIn this video I will walk you through my fume extractor design for light duty applications like small laser cutters and engravers. I wanted to design something that was very affordable, compact, and efficient. Additionally I wanted it to be as easy as possible to build and implement for the end user.
I found almost everything I needed in a common shop vacuum and some popular air filters used in home air purifiers. I followed the basic principles of fume extraction and the combination of filtration media for laser cutter fume filtration. I only needed some 3D printed adapters and hardware to get it all to fit together.
Other DIY fume extraction systems seen on YouTube use the same basic components but are typically much larger and more expensive. Many of them use very expensive combination filters from BOFA that are over $300 each. That filter alone approaches the cost of the Two Trees Laser cutter that I am using for demonstration in this video. Once you add the fan, fan controller, housing, hose you are going to double the cost of your small laser machine, not to mention the time invested in building it.
To avoid having to user extremely large motors and fans, I figured it would be possible to suck the fumes near the source. This way, I could capture most of the fumes and particulates without having to exchange very large volumes of air. I designed an adapter for the Two Trees TTS-55 machine that uses a small flexible CPAP hose to bring the fumes back to the shop vacuum.
The shop vacuum provides a good balance of pressure to suck everything through the hose, while also providing enough volumetric flow to handle the fumes being produced by a hobby laser cutter and engraver.
This is the limitation of the system that I address in the video. It is intended for use with small laser cutters and engravers. This solution will not be adequate for large machines producing lots of smoke. In those applications you should be investing in a professional filtration system.
Here are the relevant links to what was discussed in this video. First, the safety concerns with vaporizing materials with your laser cutter:
Speed Controller (Optional For Reducing Flow / Noise) ► amzn.to/3vBHVxX
Below are other 4HP vacuum models that my investigation into the float ball cage assembly leads me to believe this listing is very likely compatible with (but not guaranteed). Models within the same brand (ie. Stanley) likely use the same motor assembly. Various other brands sometimes use the same parts from a common manufacturer and are simply rebranded.
0:00 Safety 0:50 Intro 1:43 Evacuation and Relocation 2:31 Filtration and Relocation 3:17 Filtration and Recirculation 4:18 Shop Vacuum and TTS-55 Prototype 5:05 Filtration Basics and Considerations 7:27 Filter Selection and Installation 8:26 Incense Burn Test 8:53 Laser Test 9:15 Add More Carbon Filter 9:38 Vacuum On Vs. Off 10:05 Stanley Vacuum Adapter 11:00 Other Experiments 12:00 Additional Benefits 12:48 Outro
#laser #fume #filter
If you enjoy and have benefited from my content and are feeling generous I would love your support! You can "buy me a coffee" here:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
Affordable, Compact, Light Duty Shop Vacuum Fume Extractor For Laser Cutting and Engraving!Embrace Making2022-08-03 | In this video I will walk you through my fume extractor design for light duty applications like small laser cutters and engravers. I wanted to design something that was very affordable, compact, and efficient. Additionally I wanted it to be as easy as possible to build and implement for the end user.
I found almost everything I needed in a common shop vacuum and some popular air filters used in home air purifiers. I followed the basic principles of fume extraction and the combination of filtration media for laser cutter fume filtration. I only needed some 3D printed adapters and hardware to get it all to fit together.
Other DIY fume extraction systems seen on YouTube use the same basic components but are typically much larger and more expensive. Many of them use very expensive combination filters from BOFA that are over $300 each. That filter alone approaches the cost of the Two Trees Laser cutter that I am using for demonstration in this video. Once you add the fan, fan controller, housing, hose you are going to double the cost of your small laser machine, not to mention the time invested in building it.
To avoid having to user extremely large motors and fans, I figured it would be possible to suck the fumes near the source. This way, I could capture most of the fumes and particulates without having to exchange very large volumes of air. I designed an adapter for the Two Trees TTS-55 machine that uses a small flexible CPAP hose to bring the fumes back to the shop vacuum.
The shop vacuum provides a good balance of pressure to suck everything through the hose, while also providing enough volumetric flow to handle the fumes being produced by a hobby laser cutter and engraver.
This is the limitation of the system that I address in the video. It is intended for use with small laser cutters and engravers. This solution will not be adequate for large machines producing lots of smoke. In those applications you should be investing in a professional filtration system.
Here are the relevant links to what was discussed in this video. First, the safety concerns with vaporizing materials with your laser cutter:
Speed Controller (Optional For Reducing Flow / Noise) ► amzn.to/3vBHVxX
Below are other 4HP vacuum models that my investigation into the float ball cage assembly leads me to believe this listing is very likely compatible with (but not guaranteed). Models within the same brand (ie. Stanley) likely use the same motor assembly. Various other brands sometimes use the same parts from a common manufacturer and are simply rebranded.
0:00 Safety 0:50 Intro 1:43 Evacuation and Relocation 2:31 Filtration and Relocation 3:17 Filtration and Recirculation 4:18 Shop Vacuum and TTS-55 Prototype 5:05 Filtration Basics and Considerations 7:27 Filter Selection and Installation 8:26 Incense Burn Test 8:53 Laser Test 9:15 Add More Carbon Filter 9:38 Vacuum On Vs. Off 10:05 Stanley Vacuum Adapter 11:00 Other Experiments 12:00 Additional Benefits 12:48 Outro
#laser #fume #filter
If you enjoy and have benefited from my content and are feeling generous I would love your support! You can "buy me a coffee" here:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingVoron Trident Premium Purple Plastic Eater Build (Part 3: DYZE Design Print Head!) MJF PartsEmbrace Making2022-11-28 | In this video series follow along while I built a Voron Trident with new parts and modifications that I've designed. Each episode will contain something new that I will be offering to the Voron community for these core XY high speed printing machines!
In this episode, I assemble the print head / tool head with the newly designed MultiJet Fusion printed parts for the @DYZE DESIGN Extruder Pro and Hot End Pro kit. Thank you so much to DYZE for their contribution to this project with this high quality kit!
I have designed the typically FDM 3D printed functional parts to now be manufactured using multi-jet fusion 3D printing process. This means that the typical limitations and weak points of FDM printing are eliminated. The once two piece parts are now solid single piece parts with isotropic properties and very high precision. This is the closest to injection molded part quality and strength that you will get for these plastic parts! The material is nylon-12 so you can expect excellent strength and resilience.
In this video I also show the tool head PCB I designed to clean up the hotend wiring. Similar to the Voron hartk design, it uses a 14 pin Microfit 3.0 connector to bring in all of the connections from the mainboard. I am using a 14 conductor IGUS chainflex cable to ensure that it is compatible with the IGUS energy chain that the cable will eventually reside in.
See the github repository here for all of the PCB schematic and wiring details:
Be sure to get a set of the crimpers used for all of the connector terminals that I used in this video. They work great for both the JST and Microfit terminals. Because you can crimp the insulator and bare wire portion of the terminals individually, you can mix and match the crimping dies to any style terminal you need. Highly recommended!
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Thank you to the Voron community for putting together such an interesting and capable printer to build and modify. The PDF instruction manual is very useful and the PDF documentation can be found here:
If you have any comments, questions, or suggestions, please put them in the comments section down below! I do my best to respond to everyone!
In the next episode I have another interesting modification for the wiring of the printer! Stay tuned!
Thank you for watching!
#voron #multijetfusion #3dprinting
0:00 Intro 1:35 3D CAD Model 2:00 MJF Parts Threaded Inserts 3:30 Part Cooling Fan Assembly 4:39 Dyze Unboxing and Technical Specs 9:02 HotEnd Assembly 13:46 Extruder Assembly 15:07 Install On X Carriage 18:29 Toolhead PCB 21:36 Wiring to PCB 22:03 PCB Mounting 23:23 Overview 23:56 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► printables.com/social/58074-embrace-making/modelsOrtur Laser Master 3 Fume Extraction Nozzle InstallationEmbrace Making2022-11-15 | In this video I will walk you through the installation of the fume and smoke extractor nozzle that I designed for the ORTUR Laser Master 3. This nozzle sucks the fumes right at the source and will significantly limit the amount of smoke and odor escaping into your room.
It is used in conjunction with a filtration system that should capture the fumes / odors / particulates and prevent them from escaping into the air. I designed a low cost solution by adapting common HEPA and activated carbon filters to shop vacuums. This works great for light duty applications. If you are running your laser cutter or engraver for long periods you should consider a higher end professional solution.
Always remember to practice proper laser safety. These lasers can seriously harm you directly (your eyes) or indirectly (your lungs and health). ALWAYS wear your safety glasses! By-products from processing certain materials can be toxic and harm you. DO NOT CUT vinyl materials like PVC even with a filter system! Check this list for hazardous materials before cutting something:
If you don't own an ORTUR Laser Master 3 yet, please check the links below. One is through my affiliate partner for this video: zBanx on behalf of ORTUR:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingORTUR Laser Master 3 - Engraving Polyester, Coffee Pod Roulette, Shadow Box Clock and Fume ExtractorEmbrace Making2022-11-15 | In this video I will take you through several unique projects that I've completed with the assistance of the ORTUR Laser Master 3. Additionally, I have designed a fume extractor nozzle for this machine as I have done with several other laser cutters now.
ORTUR sent me the Laser Master 3 to test and I've been genuinely impressed with the construction and fit/finish of this machine. This is not a long term review, however, and the opinions expressed in this video are (at this point in time) more like first impressions. I've used the laser cutter for the projects you see in the video and some other behind the scenes testing. That being said, I do believe that the LM3 will perform reliably over time based on the apparent quality of the parts. If anything changes, I will come back and update this video description to report my findings.
In addition to the fun projects, I have also designed and made available a fume extractor nozzle to eliminate fumes at the source. Installation video for that item coming soon!
If you're looking for the clearance and fit test that I designed for slot and tab style panels / boxes. You can find that design here to test on your LM3 or any laser cutter for that matter:
Always remember to practice proper laser safety. These lasers can seriously harm you directly (your eyes) or indirectly (your lungs and health). ALWAYS wear your safety glasses! By-products from processing certain materials can be toxic and harm you. DO NOT CUT vinyl materials like PVC. Check this list for hazardous materials before cutting something:
Design files for the various projects will be made available soon as I am working on a dedicated video for the Sunrise/Sunset RGB LED Shadow Box. I am also cleaning up some of the files for the Coffee Pod Roulette wheel. Thanks for your patience!
If you don't own an ORTUR Laser Master 3 yet, please check the links below. One is through my affiliate partner for this video: zBanx on behalf of ORTUR:
0:00 Intro 1:03 Lasering Polyester Cloth 5:28 Coffee Pod Roulette 6:04 Clearance Test 8:11 Building Coffee Pod Roulette 12:25 Testing Coffee Pod Roulette 12:53 Shadow Box Clock 17:52 Testing Shadow Box Clock 18:45 Final Thoughts on LM3 20:00 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingDoes Made From Food Safe Raw Materials Mean Your Filament Is Food Safe? Filaments Depot PLA ReviewEmbrace Making2022-10-22 | In this video we are going to take a look at Filaments Depot PLA filament and have a little discussion about "made from food safe raw materials" vs. filament that is actually rated food safe.
Although the Filaments Depot PLA material is not fully certified as a food safe filament, I was very happy to see that they are not claiming to be. They do state that the material is made from food safe raw materials but I would like to credit them for their honesty not trying to push the material as a fully food safe product. As I discuss in the video, this would require both the raw materials and the manufacturing process to meet the requirements of being food safe compliant.
Even if it was fully certified, your end product may still not end up actually food safe because of how you process the filament. Things like processing temperature, the cleanliness and materials of your machine (ie. brass nozzle vs stainless steel), what material you are printing on (glass vs PIE), etc will have some impact on the true safety of the object you print.
Overall I had a very positive experience printing with Filaments Depot PLA and I went through a total of four rolls. One of each color - white, black, red, and blue - and for those of you who want a larger selection of colors I was told more options are on the way.
The filament also seems to have very good manufacturing quality control as I measured random spots across one of the spools I found every point to be exactly 1.75mm in diameter. It is made in Canada and they have posted their mechanical properties for those looking to use the material in more technical applications. On their website they also offer HTPLA as well as PETG if you're interested!
If you would like to support me and my channel, considering visiting my website where you'll find 3D printer upgrades, laser cutter upgrades, makers tools, and the various projects and designs I've presented here on my YouTube channel. Your support goes a long way in keeping this channel alive!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingCreality Ender 3 MAX - Direct Drive LGX Lite and Mosquito Magnum Hot End and CR Touch Installation!Embrace Making2022-10-16 | In this video we will be upgrading the Creality Ender 3 MAX to make more efficient use of its large build volume. You can easily cut print times in half and this is a massive time saver when making use of the larger build volume.
To do this we will be installing the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder in combination with the Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum hot end. In a previous video, I benchmarked this hot end on a Creality Ender 7 and had great results. If you want to see that video go here:
Additionally, we will also be installing the CR touch which is the same process as a BL touch so it doesn't matter which one you choose. The large build plate on the Ender 3 Max can be more prone to variations in the surface flatness than smaller build plates so this is a great tool to make your first layers go down smooth.
I will walk you through the installation and all extra considerations for the new equipment. This includes changing the esteps of your firmware, along with running a PID autotune, and making adjustments for the new nozzle offset. To make this process as easy as possible so you do not need to build custom firmware, I swapped to a cartridge style thermistor whose resistance profile is very close to that of the Creality bead style thermistor.
If you are looking to support my work and get something in return, check out my website where you can find the printed parts in this project for sale. They are printed in carbon fiber PETG and will look beautiful on your machine. I also have other Ender 3 Max upgrades for sale such as the double sided magnetic flex plate.
If you are looking to print your own parts, see the link below to my Printables page for this project. I have put a lot of time and effort into these designs. I would greatly appreciate your support by simply engaging with my content here on YouTube, and leaving a like or rating on Printables. It goes a long way in helping me grow my channel and content!
As an Amazon Associate may I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you).
00:00 Intro 1:25 CAD Model 2:00 Disassembly 6:36 New Parts 7:46 Wiring Harness 10:32 CR Touch Wiring 10:57 Pre-Assembly 14:15 Install On Printer 21:11 Extruder Wiring 23:58 Adjust VREF 24:56 CR Touch Firmware 27:05 Adjust E-STEPS and PID Autotune 29:37 Z Offset and Bed Levelling 33:01 Load Filament 33:38 Slicer Settings and Start G Code 35:25 Slicer Settings for Faster Prints 40:22 Final Thoughts & Print Samples 44:45 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemaking3D Printed Snap Latch Drill Bit Case (Assembly Instructions)Embrace Making2022-09-26 | In this video I will walk you through the assembly of my 3D printed snap latch drill bit case. This rugged Pelican style case only requires two different pieces of hardware and has been successfully snapping open and shut hundreds of times without failure. Bits are organized inside with a shelving system and do not mix when the case is tipped or shaken.
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererHow To Install Dual Z Axis Lead Screw On Creality Ender 3 Max (Using A Regular Ender 3 Kit!)Embrace Making2022-09-24 | In this video I will show you how to perform the dual z lead screw upgrade on the Creality Ender 3 Max printer using a regular Ender 3 dual z lead screw kit! I am using an official Creality kit that was originally intended for the Ender 3 V2. The dual z lead screw kits specifically for the Ender 3 Max can sometimes be more difficult to source.
Firstly, why would you want to perform this upgrade? Well, the Ender 3 Max has a long gantry span and the unsupported end of the gantry can sometimes sag on certain printers that came from the factory with loose tolerances. I've used many Ender 3 Max printers and the odd one has had this problem and I see it reported from other users online as well. By adding the second lead screw, the free end of the gantry is now supported and will not sag. You will now have consistent first layer performance!
As always, I pay attention to the fine details of the installation. Be sure to watch thoroughly so you don't miss those important little steps that other videos often skip over!
The great thing is that to make this upgrade work on the Ender 3 Max, you only need to replace one part in the whole kit... the lead screw. The regular kit comes with a shorter lead screw and you need a 500mm long lead screw. You need to look for a lead screw with an 8mm diameter, 4 starts, 2mm pitch and 8mm lead such as the following:
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Don't forget to lubricate your lead screws at the end, re-level your print bed, and pay attention to all of the fine details in this video!
If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, I would love to hear from you in the comments section below.
Thank you for watching!
#creality #ender3 #3dprinting
0:00 Intro 1:10 Unboxing 1:40 Remove Power Supply 2:05 Install Stepper Motor 3:48 Remove V Wheels 5:23 The Secret Sauce 5:43 Install New Gantry Plate 6:46 Adjust Lead Screw Nut 8:31 Wiring 12:20 Power Supply Bracket 13:34 Lead Screw Bearing Supports 14:50 First Layer Nirvana 15:37 30 Hour Print 16:12 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererHow to Build a Modern Mailbox (The Makers Mailbox)Embrace Making2022-09-02 | In this video I will walk you through the process of making a modern mailbox that I designed. I have supplied all of the design files so that you can make one too!
The wooden panel at the front can be substituted with any wood that you want to achieve the look you are going for. However, I would suggest not going any thinner than 1/2" or 12mm thick for the best results. In my case, I cut a 5/8" thick bamboo cutting board to the 9"x12" dimensions (see drawings for all dimensions). The laser engraving is optional if you do not want to invest in a machine or do not have one. Otherwise, I have provided the "POST" file to use.
The metal frames will need to be professionally laser cut (unless you have some pretty serious equipment on hand). Both are made from 20GA sheet metal. The inner frame is regular mild steel so that the magnets stick to it and the outer frame is stainless steel for corrosion protection and that slick stainless look. Contact your local metal fabrication shop to get them to cut these items for you. You can send them the DXF files from my links.
The 3D printed parts can be printed in PLA although I would suggest PETG if possible. Use a higher infill settings like 20 - 25% and min. 3 walls thick both horizontal and vertical.
The handle is a 300mm "BILLSBRO" handle from IKEA, although you can use whatever handle you want and get creative.
If you are looking for products or items I've used with in this video, see below. As an Amazon Associate may I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you):
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingXTOOL D1 Pro In-Depth Setup Guide, Assembly, Creative Space Software Fundamentals and Fume ExtractorEmbrace Making2022-08-27 | In this video I will take you in depth into getting started with the XTOOL D1 Pro laser cutter and engraver! I will take you right from the unboxing all the way to the complete workflow of processing your first job.
XTOOL sent me the D1 Pro 10W model to test and I've been genuinely impressed with the build quality of this laser cutter. This is not a long term review, however, and the opinions expressed in this video are (at this point in time) more like first impressions. That being said, I do believe that the D1 Pro will perform reliably over time based on the apparent quality of the parts. If anything changes, I will come back and update this video description to report my findings.
In addition to the setup guide, I have also designed and made available a fume extractor nozzle to eliminate fumes at the source:
Towards the end of the video (check the time stamps) I show the performance of the machine while cutting the clearance and fit test that I designed for slot and tab style panels / boxes. You can find that design here to test on your D1 Pro or any laser cutter for that matter:
Always remember to practice proper laser safety. These lasers can seriously harm you directly (your eyes) or indirectly (your lungs and health). ALWAYS wear your safety glasses! By-products from processing certain materials can be toxic and harm you. DO NOT CUT vinyl materials like PVC. Check this list for hazardous materials before cutting something:
If you are looking for products or items I've used with the D1 Pro in this video, see below. As an Amazon Associate may I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you):
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingBamboo Laptop Cooling Riser Pad With RGB Fans and HEX Legs For Office or Gaming!Embrace Making2022-08-24 | This stylish laptop / monitor riser stand is made with a solid bamboo surface and sturdy plastic legs. The bamboo surface has an attractive hexagonal pattern laser engraved into the top to match the hexagon patterned black legs.
Optionally, it features CNC cut and hand finished cooling holes with two 120mm RGB cooling fans powered by USB cables / connectors. The 2-1 USB connector allows you to power both fans with a single USB port. Each fan features independent speed control.
It can accommodate very large gaming laptops with a generous width of 17.75" (450mm) and depth of 11" (250mm). The front edge is 4" (100mm) high and the back edge is 5" (127") high.
It comes fully assembled and ready to use right out of the box!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingBeaglePrint Remote Print Host Long Term Review, Setup Guide, Firmware Update, and Tripod Mount!Embrace Making2022-08-11 | In this video I will walk you through the initial setup of your @Mintion Official BeaglePrint remote 3D print host camera as well as show you how to perform a firmware update. It is important that the firmware update is one of the first things you do with your BeaglePrint unit so that you have the most up to date features available to you.
The BeaglePrint device is essentially a remote 3D print host similar to what you would achieve using a Raspberry Pi and Octoprint. However, this all-in-one package comes ready to go out of the box. Just set up your wifi, connect to your printer, and you are more or less ready to remotely connect to your 3D printer and monitor it. The camera features 1080p resolution and amazing night vision capabilities with the IR sensor.
Capturing time lapse videos is make extremely easy. A few clicks and you're all set. The timelapse photos are automatically combined at the end of your print you simply download the mp4 video file.
At the end of the video I will share with you my thoughts and opinions of this device based on my personal user experience. I hope you find my opinions insightful and helpful in making a decision whether or not this product is right for you.
Additionally, I have designed a tripod mount for the BeaglePrint camera for tripods with the cam lock / latch style mounts. I find that this is one of the best ways to set up the camera for timelapse videos. Many other designs using articulated arms are not very sturdy and the vibrations and movements lead to poor quality time lapse videos. You can find those design files here:
If you need to adjust the focal length of your camera, see this article here: ► https://www.3dprinteraccessories.shop/blogs/beagleprint/how-to-adjust-the-lens-of-mintion-beagle-camera
Other great resources related to BeaglePrint: ► https://www.3dprinteraccessories.shop/en-de/blogs/beagleprint
If you would like to pick up a BeaglePrint Camera check out the links below. As an Amazon Associate may I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you):
If you would like to support my channel and my work, perhaps you should check out my website where I offer 3D printer upgrades and other maker tools and equipment:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingCustomizable Colors Samsung Galaxy Watch 4 / 5 (All Models) Docking Charging Station StandEmbrace Making2022-08-08 | Dock, charge and display your beautiful Samsung Galaxy 4 / 5 watch with this fully customizable docking stand. Select from a wide variety of top/bottom colors to create your own personalized stand suitable for your office desk, night stand, etc. The top and bottom are two separate pieces and simply snap together.
With the latest Galaxy Watch 5 there have been many reports that the shape of the band will not allow the watch to sit flat and properly charge on the charging pad from Samsung. You will not have this problem with this docking station as it allows the band to maintain it's original shape and it will naturally wrap around this unit.
You will need the "puck" or disc style watch charger that typically comes with the Galaxy Watch 4. If you are a GW5 owner and you need a charger, you can find one at the link below. These chargers will work fine with the GW5. As an Amazon associate I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you).
The charging puck is inserted into the docking station. Unlike many other docking stations, the pad is magnetically retained using the large countersunk screw secured within the stand. Therefore it will not fall out. Refer to the video for assembly instructions.
Additionally, there is space within the base of the stand to coil up and hide excess wire from your charger to make your smartwatch display even tidier.
As seen in the video, the stand will accommodate even the largest 46mm Galaxy Watch 4 Classic and all smaller models. Simply wrap your band around the station and plug in the USB cable.
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingTwo Trees TTS-55 Laser Cutter and Engraver Assembly, Setup, Upgrade, Review! GREAT Entry Level Unit!Embrace Making2022-08-05 | In this video I will first walk you through the assembly and setup of the Two Trees TTS-55 laser cutter and engraver. This is a great beginner or entry level machine due to the cost vs capabilities balance. I will also demonstrate some examples of cutting and engraving and help you get started with this machine using the LaserGRBL software.
As with most of my setup and review videos, I show some of the upgrades and modifications that I design after having used the Two Trees TTS-55 for a period of time.
The most effective and important upgrade in this case is the smoke and fume extraction adapter. You can find that adapter on my website here:
0:00 Safety 0:50 Intro 1:18 Unboxing 1:54 Assembly 12:49 Focus Setup 13:40 Free Origin Tool 15:24 LaserGRBL Getting Started 19:10 First Engraving 20:20 Fume Extraction Adapter 22:34 Fume Extraction Test 24:09 More Engraving 25:16 Laser Cutting 27:30 Origin and Alignment Tool 29:27 Final Thoughts (Review) 31:54 Outro
#laser #fume #filter
*For those of you who have no idea what the "Schfifty-five" reference was at the beginning of the video... then you are clearly not an internet OG. It's about 20 years old now and you can still watch that masterpiece here: youtube.com/watch?v=O9Q2WvrF_Lg
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
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► instagram.com/embracemakingHow To Build a WiFi YouTube RGB Play Button Award Subscriber and View CounterEmbrace Making2022-07-20 | In this video I will share with you the secret behind winning the most exclusive YouTube Play Button Award... the RGB play button! This center of this elusive play button is illuminated with RGB LEDs and the digital matrix LED display shows the live subscriber and view count. It also features a real time clock to act as a digital time keeping piece.
So how did I win this? I awarded it to myself! I made it, and you can too.
First, download the 3D models along with all of the templates I have provided:
and sign up for an account. Follow the instructions in my YouTube video to see which part of the code you need to copy from their auto-generated code so that their server can fetch your stats with the proper project name.
Big shoutout to HackMakeMod for the original video:
And for the original source code that I forked this from. I've modified their auto generated code from socialgenius.io to use the 4 panel MAX7219 instead of the 8 panel so it can fit in the picture frame. I also modified the code to run the LOLIN RGB shield and changed the formatting of text / numbers to fit the 4 panel matrix.
In addition to the ones listed in their writeup, you will also need the Adafruit NeoPixel library.
Thanks for watching!
0:00 Intro 1:05 CAD Model 1:36 Frame and Backing 2:52 Print 4:05 Play Button Assembly 6:52 LED Matrix Assembly 8:41 Wiring 9:25 Lens and Bezel 11:33 Legs 12:37 Code 16:55 Final Look 18:18 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCreality Ender 3 S1 Long Term Review, Setup Guide, Easy Upgrade, and Comparison With Ender 3 V2Embrace Making2022-07-16 | In this video I will walk you through the set up of the Creality Ender 3 S1 and show you what to look for during the assembly of this printer. We will investigate the common errors of 3D printer assembly and some simple considerations for the construction of this machine and 3D printers in general.
I hope to provide you with insight into what is involved with putting this printer together if you are considering purchasing this machine. If you are looking to pick one up, consider:
as they provided me with this machine for the making of this video. This wouldn't be possible without them and I would like to sincerely thank them for lending me this printer.
If you have already purchased this printer, I hope this video provides you with the details required to achieve beautiful prints in a short period of time.
To download the files for the filament guide, see the following link to my Printables page. Be sure to give it a rating or a like as a simple way of supporting my work:
If you are looking to print the "smooth spool holder" modification shown in the video, see the link below. All I ask in return is that you engage with my content; comment or please like this video and/or the spool holder on my Printables page.
Overall I was very pleased with this machine over the several months I was able to spend with it. I thought it provided great value relative to the cost of the machine and it is basically a very well equipped Ender 3 V2 out of the box.
You will save time and money going with this machine over the Ender 3 V2 as most of the common upgrades come standard on the S1.
I would recommend this printer to anyone looking for a "out-of-the-box" solution for general use. You can be up and running in next to no time, especially with so many available slicer profiles for the Ender 3 series of printers.
If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, I would love to hear from you in the comments section below.
Thank you for watching!
#creality #ender3 #3dprinting
0:00 Intro 0:36 Unboxing 1:26 General Assembly 5:45 Electronics and Wiring 7:47 Quality Checks 10:05 Z Offset 13:15 Bed Levelling 16:24 Load Filament 18:19 First Prints 23:45 Filament Guide Upgrade 27:09 More Example Prints 29:30 Final Thoughts
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererArtillery Genius Pro Long Term Review, Assembly and Setup GuideEmbrace Making2022-06-26 | In this video I will take you through the assembly / setup and my experience with the Artillery Genius Pro printer as I have now owned it for several months. I was given this printer for review by Artillery so please go check them out if you decide that this printer is something you would be interested in:
This printer has a fairly common build volume at 220mm x 220mm x 250mm and features a 32 bit main board with silent stepper drivers for quiet operation.
This printer has a lot of nice features and it looks like the Artillery team put a lot of attention to detail into it. The prints that come off this machine are dimensionally accurate and very visually appealing. Some of the machine's best features are:
► All metal hotend with direct drive extruder ► Excellent wire management ► Dual Z lead screws with sync belt ► Auto bed leveling sensor ► AC powered print bed
I grew very fond of this printer and I could really only find two minor things that I would like to see Artillery work on.
► Filament runout detector position ► Touchscreen appearance and layout
Overall, I think this printer is an excellent choice within it's price range vs. other brands. It was exceptionally reliable for me and required little to no "tuning." Default print profiles included in PrusaSlicer's wizard for this printer work great making the slicing extremely easy.
Does it live up to the name, "Genius Pro?" ... well, I think it would be more suitable to call it "Reliable Pro." You get a lot of features and they all work as intended. But calling it a "Genius" would indicate to me that it is doing something particularly innovative that other printers are not. Although I absolutely love this machine, I can't say that this printer somehow turns the 3D printing world upside down. It is just a very well executed printer, which is, in itself, enough reason to buy one.
I did not cover any modifications to the printer in this video as I wanted to review it in its natural form. Also... I couldn't really find anything worth changing at this point which is very unusual for me!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererVoron Trident Premium Purple Plastic Eater Build (Part 2: X Axis, Print Bed, Belt Routing) MJF PartsEmbrace Making2022-06-21 | In this video series follow along while I built a Voron Trident with new parts and modifications that I've designed. Each episode will contain something new that I will be offering to the Voron community for these core XY high speed printing machines!
In this episode, I assemble the X gantry with the newly designed MultiJet Fusion printed parts, and install it onto the frame.
I have redesigned the typically FDM 3D printed functional parts to now be manufactured using multi-jet fusion 3D printing process. This means that the typical limitations and weak points of FDM printing are eliminated. The once two piece parts are now solid single piece parts with isotropic properties and very high precision. This is the closest to injection molded part quality and strength that you will get for these plastic parts! The material is nylon-12 so you can expect excellent strength and resilience.
I also prepare the print bed with the magnetic flex plate, heater pad, thermal fuse, and thermal insulation. Additionally the core XY belt routing is addressed, and the modified sexbolt z end stop is installed.
If you want to learn more about multi-jet fusion (MJF) printing technology, see here:
Thank you to the Voron community for putting together such an interesting and capable printer to build and modify. The PDF instruction manual is very useful and the PDF documentation can be found here:
If you have any comments, questions, or suggestions, please put them in the comments section down below! I do my best to respond to everyone!
In the next episode I have more multi-jet fusion parts lined up for a new premium hotend offering! Stay tuned!
Thank you for watching!
#voron #multijetfusion #3dprinting
0:00 Intro 1:00 Multi-Jet Fusion Close Up 1:45 MJF Parts Threaded Inserts 3:05 Bearing Block Assemblies 5:50 Inductive Probe Install 6:53 X Gantry Assembly 9:52 X Gantry Install On Frame 13:04 Core XY Belt Routing 24:30 Print Bed Magnet Install 28:12 Heating Pad, Thermal Fuse Install 34:18 Print Bed Support Frame Assembly 34:57 Print Bed Support Frame Install 37:01 Print Bed Support Parts Install 36:48 Print Bed Mounting 38:00 SexBolt Z End Stop Assembly 41:57 SexBolt Z End Stop Install 42:59 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererVoron Trident Premium Purple Plastic Eater Build (Part 1: Frame Y/Z Axis Assembly With MJF Parts!)Embrace Making2022-06-14 | In this video series follow along while I built a Voron Trident with new parts and modifications that I've designed. Each episode will contain something new that I will be offering to the Voron community for these core XY high speed printing machines!
In this episode, I put together the majority of the frame which covers the Y and Z axis motion parts. I have redesigned the typically FDM 3D printed functional parts to now be manufactured using multi-jet fusion 3D printing process. This means that the typical limitations and weak points of FDM printing are eliminated. The once two piece parts are now solid single piece parts with isotropic properties and very high precision. This is the closest to injection molded part quality and strength that you will get for these plastic parts! The material is nylon-12 so you can expect excellent strength and resilience.
If you want to learn more about multi-jet fusion (MJF) printing technology, see here:
Thank you to the Voron community for putting together such an interesting and capable printer to build and modify. The PDF instruction manual is very useful and the PDF documentation can be found here:
If you have any comments, questions, or suggestions, please put them in the comments section down below! I do my best to respond to everyone!
In the next episode I have more multi-jet fusion parts lined up for the X axis gantry! I will be covering the core XY belt routing in that video as well. Stay tuned!
Thank you for watching!
#voron #multijetfusion #3dprinting
0:00 Intro 2:13 Frame Assembly 7:38 Multi-Jet Fusion Close Up 8:50 MJF Parts Threaded Inserts 9:37 Tensioning Block Assemblies 13:10 A and B Drive Assemblies 15:36 Stepper Motor Install 19:03 Mount Tensioners to Frame 20:25 A and B Drives to Frame 24:54 Y Axis Linear Rails 29:08 Rear Z Axis Motion Parts 31:39 Front Z Axis Motion Parts 33:55 MJF Print Bed Support Assemblies 37:01 Print Bed Support Parts Install 37:38 Z Stepper Motor and Lead Screw 38:22 Frame Feet Install and Assembly 40:36 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCreality Ender 3 MAX Setup and First Impressions... Maximum Value Or Maximum Disappointment?Embrace Making2022-05-30 | In this video I will walk you through the set up of the Creality Ender 3 Max and show you what to look for during the assembly of this printer. We will investigate the common errors of 3D printer assembly and some simple considerations for the construction of this machine and 3D printers in general.
I hope to provide you with insight into what is involved with putting this printer together if you are considering purchasing this machine. If you have already purchased this printer, I hope this video provides you with the details required to achieve beautiful prints in a short period of time.
Looking for Ender 3 Max Upgrades you won't find anywhere else? Then check out my offerings:
If you are looking to print the "smooth spool holder" modification shown in the video, see the link below. All I ask in return is that you engage with my content; comment or please like this video and/or the spool holder on my Printables page.
Overall I was very pleased with this machine in the short period of time I was able to spend with it. I thought it provided great value relative to the cost of the machine and can be a fun platform for future upgrades.
Even without any upgrades, the print quality was excellent considering the lack of dual z lead screws and the generic bowden tube extruder setup. The dual 4010 part cooling fans performed very well and steep overhangs and unsupported bridges printed without issue.
I would absolutely recommend this printer to anyone looking for a budget large format printer for general use. You can be up and running in next to no time, especially with so many available slicer profiles for the Ender 3 series of printers.
If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, I would love to hear from you in the comments section below.
Thank you for watching!
#creality #ender3 #3dprinting
0:00 Intro 0:58 Unboxing 1:40 Frame Assembly 2:35 Electronics and Wiring 5:30 Spool Holder 6:19 Adjustments 9:20 Bed Levelling 10:54 Load Filament 11:26 Print Tests 15:30 Final Thoughts
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCreality Ender 3 V2 - Direct Drive MicroSwiss NG Installation With CR-Touch and Jyers Firmware!Embrace Making2022-05-12 | In this video I will show you how to install the new MicroSwiss NG direct drive extruder on the Creality Ender 3 V2. Additionally, I will show you how to install the Creality CR Touch module alongside the new extruder. While doing all of this work, you might as well upgrade your firmware to the latest version of Jyers firmware as it has many great features!
Remember that the firmware update is only necessary if you are installing the CR Touch module. The NG extruder only requires that you update the E Steps in your firmware. You can find the gcode file for that here:
Big thank you to MicroSwiss for providing me the opportunity to test their NG extruder before official release. It has been performing exceptionally well for quite some time now and I have a second production unit running all day and night without issue.
If you would like to support my channel and my work, consider visiting my website and perhaps I have something you need! A double sided magnetic flex plate would perform great on your Ender 3 ;)
0:00 Intro 0:50 Unboxing the NG 2:01 Remove Original Hot End 4:40 NG Assembly 7:40 Install of NG Extruder 9:00 Remove Original Extruder Mechanism 10:13 Attach Timing Belt 10:35 Install Heater Block and Nozzle 11:36 Install Fan Shroud and Fans 13:14 Stepper Motor Extension Cable 13:52 CR Touch Unboxing 14:40 CR Touch Install 16:00 Wire Management 16:30 Plug In CR Touch to Mainboard 17:15 Spool Holder Position 18:01 Update Firmware E-Steps 18:43 Jyers Firmware Install 19:58 Update Screen Firmware 22:26 Custom Splash Screen 22:40 Move Z Limit Switch 23:15 Set Z Offset, Manual Level 23:27 Create New Mesh 23:56 Change Start G Code, Retraction 24:48 PID Autotune 25:22 Tension Arm 25:48 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCreality Ender 7 - Direct Drive Bondtech LGX Lite and Mosquito Magnum Hot End Install and Benchmark!Embrace Making2022-05-03 | In this video we are going to breathe some fire into "Project Dragon Rising" - The Creality Ender 7 printer that I have been modifying. The Bondtech LGX lite extruder combined with Slice Engineering's Mosquito Magnum hot end should bring the heat!
First we will benchmark the existing hotend from Creality and see what volumetric flow rate this machine is capable of from the factory. We will be using @CNC Kitchen flow rate test to perform this analysis. I have edited the gcode files to be compatible with the Creality Ender 7. You can find them in the 'Printables' link within this video description.
Then I will walk you through the installation and all extra considerations for the new equipment. This includes changing the esteps of your firmware, along with running a PID autotune, and making adjustments for the new nozzle offset. Currently there is no known open source Marlin configuration file for the Creality Ender 7 and so I had to reuse the old thermistor.
In a future video I will be installing Klipper, which will allow me to run a custom thermistor and higher melt temperatures. This will also unlock more advanced features such as linear advance and input shaping.
For a more detailed methodology of performing the bed leveling procedure:
If you are looking to support my work and get something in return, check out my website where you can find the printed parts in this project for sale. They are printed in carbon fiber PETG and will look beautiful on your machine. I also have other Ender 7 upgrades for sale such as the double sided magnetic flex plate and the triple lead screw z axis kit as seen in this video:
If you are looking to print your own parts, see the link below to my Printables page for this project. I have put a lot of time and effort into these designs. I would greatly appreciate your support by simply engaging with my content here on YouTube, and leaving a like or rating on Printables. It goes a long way in helping me grow my channel and content! printables.com/model/190248
You can find the BLtouch / CRtouch firmware for the Ender 7 here:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererSmooth Filament Spool Holder For Creality 3D PrintersEmbrace Making2022-04-24 | Eliminate the sloppy fit between your filament spools and the spool holder that came with your Creality printer. This poor fit causes eccentric rolling of your spools while printing which can lead to non-uniform extrusion as the extruder motor has to pull more/less through the eccentric rolling pattern.
This smooth spool holder has conical TPU grippers to securely grab the inner diameter of your spools. The cone shape accommodates various different spools from different manufacturers. The inner bushings roll smoothly over the outer diameter of the Creality spool holder ensuring a nice fit and eliminating the eccentric rolling pattern.
The 3D printed nut and bolt secure the rollers onto your Creality spool holder. Note that you will have to cut/sand off the existing shoulder of your spool holder and the nut/bolt replace that shoulder to keep the spool from slipping off. Follow the instructions in the video.
You can print all of the pieces without support and most printers should be able to hold the tolerance necessary for the nut and bolt to function. For reference, I printed at 0.28mm layer height and the parts still work.
If you do not print in TPU or just want to support me and my content, head over to my website and I will do the printing for you! This item is available for purchase here:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCloud3DPrint Setup Guide and Review! Better than Octoprint?Embrace Making2022-04-15 | In this video we will be exploring the new Cloud3DPrint software that allows you to remotely control your 3D printers, upload your models to the cloud, slice them and distribute them amongst multiple printers, monitor them with AI print failure detection, and keep your projects or business organized with groups, user privileges, analytics and more.
Click the link above to get started with a free account and test it out. I will walk you through the process of getting started and the fundamentals of using this new software. If you're familiar with Octoprint you should be able to easily migrate to this software as it shares some similarities to Octoprint but gives you many more features out of the box.
I have been very impressed with this software's functionality and the convenience of having all of these features built in with no additional plugins/setup required. There are tons of built in printer profiles and material profiles for the cloud slicer, and if you want to continue to use your own slicer that is possible by simply uploading your already sliced gcode files.
The ability to monitor more than one printer on your dashboard simultaneously is one of my favorite features along with the project organization method to keep all of your models, gcode files, images, time lapses, etc grouped together and backed up on the cloud.
At the time of the making of this video, the software is still in beta and therefore there will be continued development, improvement, and additional features over time. That is a lot of value for a free service, and optionally you can subscribe to business or professional accounts with more storage, more AI detection hours, etc. In the meantime... they are offering these packages for free, so don't miss the opportunity to sign up!
If you would like to support my channel and the content I produce, be sure to check out my website where you can find maker products for sale including 3D printer upgrades, accessories, and filament.
My plan for this website is not to inundate you with hundreds of random parts and accessories, or filament choices. I only want to offer for sale what I know works, what I personally use, and brands and products that I trust. As I grow the channel and my website I will be offering slicer / print profiles for the filaments I sell for specific machines. No more guess work on your end when you purchase filament!
By purchasing from my website you would be supporting my channel in the process. It takes countless hours to design upgrades, test them, film the content, edit the videos and build this channel. Your support keeps me going!
If you enjoyed this video please consider subscribing! Please post comments and questions below!
0:00 Intro 3:02 Sign Up 4:05 Raspberry Pi Setup 7:25 Connect Your Printer 8:50 Setup Custom Printer 13:08 Create a Project 15:00 Add GCode File 15:55 Add a Material 16:43 Add a STL 17:05 Slice a Model 21:05 Remote Printer Control 22:28 Start a Print 23:22 AI Print Failure Detection 25:10 Dashboard / Analytics 26:10 Help / Support 26:30 Change Color Theme
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCreality Ender 7 - Project Dragon Rising - Triple Lead Screw Linear Rod Upgrade!Embrace Making2022-04-01 | In this video I will show you my latest upgrade on the Creality Ender 7 - Project Dragon Rising. This machine has been upgraded to now use a triple lead screw z axis with linear rods and bearings. I have eliminated the cantilevered print bed and Creality "V wheels."
The print bed support and z axis motion system is an enormous upgrade over the original equipment from Creality. The stability and smooth operation of the z motion system has been greatly increased and this will pay dividends as we explore the speed limits of the machine in future videos.
I also switched to a magnetic build plate which is another worthwhile upgrade on this machine whether or not you perform the z motion upgrade. First layer adhesion is excellent in combination with the CR touch installation that I documented in a previous video. If you want to see that video, head over to my channel page.
I want to thank Mech Solutions for providing me with this printer so that I can upgrade it and tinker with it. Please go check them out and pick up an Ender 7 for yourself or other Creality machines!
BIG ANNOUNCEMENT: If you are looking to support my work and get something in return, check out my website where you can find the printed parts in this project for sale. They are printed in carbon fiber PETG and will look beautiful on your machine. I also have other Ender 7 upgrades for sale such as the double sided magnetic flex plate and the triple lead screw z axis kit as seen in this video:
NOTE: In this video there are the M4 socket head cap screws that are shown to fix the linear bearings in place. Those screws are also shown to hold the back of the print bed bracket onto the 3D printed rear print bed support. These screws have been superseded by M4 plastic thread forming screws. Also, the M3 socket head cap screws that hold the lead screw nuts into the left/right side print bed support pieces have also been superseded by M3 plastic thread forming screws.
Additionally, I have been getting a lot of international orders. Every gram counts when it comes to shipping (especially right now with the ongoing fuel crisis) and so the "gauge" bars used to level out the print bed will not be included in the kit. In my video these are the metal bars with holes in them. I was going to print plastic ones for customers but the mass and volume of these plastic bars becomes problematic for shipping. Only the small printed pieces to set the height of the rods will be included. Those gauge bars can be printed very easily with regular PLA before you disassemble your machine. They can be printed in pretty much any dimension you want, the ones I used were roughly 115mm x 25mm x 25mm , but again you can make them whatever size you want just to support the print bed while you set the height of the lead screw nuts.
I will be slowly building this website up to what I have envisioned for it.
My plan for this website is not to inundate you with hundreds of random parts and accessories, or filament choices. I only want to offer for sale what I know works, what I personally use, and brands and products that I trust. As I grow the channel and my website I will be offering slicer / print profiles for the filaments I sell for specific machines. No more guess work on your end when you purchase filament!
By purchasing from my website you would be supporting my channel in the process. It takes countless hours to design these upgrades, test them, film the content, edit the videos and build this channel. Your support keeps me going!
If you enjoyed this video please consider subscribing! Please post comments and questions below!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCreality Ender 7 CR Touch / BL Touch Installation Guide + Bonus RGB Light Install!Embrace Making2022-03-21 | In this video I walk you through the process by which you would install a BLtouch or CRtouch module onto the Creality Ender 7 printer. Currently, there is not much information available online for this modification as it seems the Ender 7 is being slowly adopted by others. I believe this printer has a lot of potential and this is a fairly easy modification to enable auto bed levelling on this printer for optimal first layer adhesion.
Overall it is a fairly easy install, the most challenging part is extending the CR touch / BL touch wiring harness as it is not long enough to reach the mainboard. There is a connector labelled BL touch on the breakout board at the top of the printer, but oddly, the connector on the Creality CR touch harness does not plug into the Creality printer… go figure.
As a bonus to the CR touch walkthrough, I will also be installing an RGB LED light strip to add some light inside of the print area and some extra colors are always fun!
To download the 3D printable file for CR touch mounting, click here:
Please remember to like and rate the file on PrusaPrints as it is a small, free, and easy gesture that helps with my ratings on that website :) I spend a of time making these videos and designing parts for the community.
In addition to the 3D printed file you will, of course, need a BL touch or CR touch module. With my bracket you will need four M3x8 socket head cap screws for mounting.
You can find the BLtouch / CRtouch firmware for the Ender 7 here:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCreality Ender 7 Assembly, Setup, Slicer Settings, Review and First Prints!Embrace Making2022-03-12 | In this video I will be walking you through the setup and assembly of the Creality Ender 7 3D printer! I will provide you with tips and suggestions along the way that you will not find in the user manual, and also take you through my slicer settings to get you the best print results avoiding frustration!
Thank you to Mech Solutions for providing me with this printer! If you haven't yet purchased your Creality Ender 7, head over to:
The Creality Ender 7 is marketed as a printer built for speed. Although this appears to be the case based on the CoreXY motion system, large XY stepper motors and drivers, and high flow rate hot end, it seems to fall short of the advertised 250mm/s print speed. And this is simply due to the fact that Creality has very conservative machine limit settings in the firmware. The printer simply cannot accelerate fast enough with those settings to cut down on print time for small prints.
This can easily be changed and you can get the printer moving quite a bit faster without any further modifications out of the box. Overall, you can get very respectable print quality at ~80mm/s external perimeters, and 125mm/s speeds for internal features. This is still better than most other consumer grade printers on the market today.
With a large enough print, you can get the print head moving up to 250mm/s and the extruder/hot end combination will keep up, but don't expect exceptional quality of your print surfaces at this speed.
When attempting to run very high speeds and accelerations, I noticed that quality is lost on sharp corners (as one would expect) and the printer would greatly benefit from some advanced compensation techniques like linear / pressure advance.
The Z motion system also leaves something to be desired as it is fully cantilevered and the free end of the bed support sags. The adjustment screws and knobs will allow you to properly level the print bed, but it is very evident that you have to unscrew the front knobs much more to compensate. The use of V-wheels on the cantilevered Z motion system was also a questionable design choice. Despite all of this, the printer still manages to make very nice prints and there are no Z artifacts surprisingly.
In future videos I plan to address several of the Creality Ender 7 shortcomings. Namely, I have already designed and prototyped a 3 point linear rod and lead screw system for this printer to eliminate the bed sag and increase the lateral stability of the print bed. After that, I will be installing Klipper and trying to do a more advanced tune and control for this printer in hopes of achieving much higher speeds while maintaining quality. Perhaps a direct drive extruder and hot end are also in the works!
Overall, the Creality Ender 7 is a well built machine with a lot of potential. There are some issues that need to be addressed but stick with me and we will get this printer flying!
Start g-code:
G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; extruder relative mode M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp M104 S165 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup G28 ; home all axis G1 Z5 F240 G1 X2 Y10 F3000 M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize G28 Z ;home z axis G1 Z2 F240 G1 X1 Y20 F5000 G1 Z0.28 F240 G92 E0 G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle G1 X2.3 F5000 G92 E0 G1 Y20 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle G92 E0
If you enjoyed this video please consider subscribing! Please post comments and questions below!
#DIY #3dPrinting #Creality
00:00 Intro 01:00 Unbox / Assembly 13:00 Bed Levelling 16:45 Loading Filament 18:56 Slicer Settings 22:57 Print Samples and Thoughts 28:04 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererSimple and Effective Upgrades for Creality Ender 3. Heated Bed Strain Relief + Filament Guide!Embrace Making2022-02-17 | In this video I will show you two simple and very effective upgrades you can perform on your Creality Ender 3 or similar machine (Voxelab Aquila, Tronxy XY-2, Alfawise U30, Longer LK4, Geeetech A10, BIQU B1, etc).
The Creality Ender 3 comes with minimum thought put into the cable management aspect of the machine. This could lead to broken and shorted wires, or cables getting caught on other components of the machine leading to damage or print defects. One of the worst cables for this potential hazard is the heated bed cable. Although the Ender 3 V2 comes with a strain relief bracket, it is not well thought out. It awkwardly sits between the print bed carriage and the bed leveling spring causing the one corner of the bed to be under more force than all other corners. I also found that the Creality bracket can rotate a little bit since it only uses a single screw to secure it to the print carriage.
My redesigned component moves the strain relief below the print bed carriage and has an adjustable landing for the cable to ensure the connections to the print bed are under no stress. You can simply make adjustments to the rectangular insert by scaling the part in the Z axis in your slicer. It also uses the leveling screw to mount, with an additional hole for an M3 screw to ensure no rotation is possible. For this screw you will have to use the strain relief part as a drill guide to drill a 1/8" hole in the print carriage for it to pass through.
For the heated bed strain relief system you will need:
► (3) M3 x 10 socket or button head screws ► (2) M3 T Nuts ► (1) M3 nylon locking nut
The filament guide system is easy to assemble and install and resolves the issue of the filament grinding against the edge of the extruder opening when using the top mount spool holder. The filament will now have a very smooth path into the extruder and reduces friction in the filament path, lessening the chance of under extrusion and inconsistent extrusion on your prints.
Tap the hole in the filament guide bracket for a 10-24 thread and assemble as seen in the video. The V wheel bolt on the Creality gantry can be reused to mount the new filament guide. Very simple!
You will need the following:
► (1) SRM032204BF18 Bearing ► (1) 10-24 x 3/4" socket head screw
This process and system *should* work on a variety of Ender 3 clones such as Voxelab Aquila, Tronxy XY-2, Alfawise U30, Longer LK4, Geeetech A10, BIQU B1, etc.
Thank you to Mech Solutions for providing me with the Ender 3 V2 at a discount. This is the only compensation I received from them. Check out their website here:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmCreality Ender 3 Adjustable Z End Stop (Should Also Work On Aquila, XY-2, U30, LK4, A10, BIQU B1)Embrace Making2022-02-03 | In this video I will show you how to upgrade your Creality Ender 3 or similar 3D printer with an adjustable z end stop. The advantage to using an adjustable z end stop is the ease of adjusting your z offset very quickly and accurately for different filaments, or if your z height position slowly creeps over time. By turning the adjustment knob slightly one way or the other, you can change your offset fractions of a millimeter at a time.
Do you want the whole kit printed for you in high quality carbon fiber PETG? All of the hardware included so you don't have to source small quantities of obscure brass inserts? You can now get the kit here:
The limit switch bracket that comes with the Creality Ender 3 is fixed and once you loosen the bolts holding it, you lose your z0 reference position and making fine adjustments is incredibly frustrating. This will change all of that and make your life so much easier.
Once installed, you will not have to re-level your print bed since you have not touched your bed level, BUT it doesn't hurt to do so as I did in the video just to be sure. Simply move the print head to the middle of the printer and use the classic "paper gauge" and home your z axis a few times while making adjustments to the thumb screw to dial back in your perfect z height.
Your original limit switch is re-used along with the two socket head cap screws from the original mount (and their t nuts), plus the 2 small phillips screws that held the PCB to the original bracket. What you will need is the following:
► (1) M3x20mm socket head cap screws ► (1) M3 nylon locking nut ► (1) M3 brass insert ► 3D printed parts
This process and system *should* work on a variety of Ender 3 clones such as Voxelab Aquila, Tronxy XY-2, Alfawise U30, Longer LK4, Geeetech A10, BIQU B1, etc.
Thank you to Mech Solutions for providing me with the Ender 3 V2 at a discount. This is the only compensation I received from them. Check out their website here:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererCreality CR-10 Smart and CR6-SE Direct Drive Extruder - Bondtech LGX Lite - Compact and PowerfulEmbrace Making2022-01-24 | In this video I will walk you through the installation of a Bondtech LGX Lite Extruder onto a Creality CR-10 Smart (should also work for CR6-SE? someone please confirm in the comments section!) to convert this printer to direct drive. This upgrade works well with the MicroSwiss all metal hotend upgrade I performed in a previous video, but one is not a pre-requisite for the other. You can do them independently or together.
The Bondtech LGX Lite is a great option for Creality printers as it is small, compact and very light weight. Printing with this extruder (even at high speeds) has not added much mass to the overall print head and I am therefore not seeing print defects like ghosting or ringing.
There should be a significant improvement in print quality when printing flexibles, and you should also have finer control of your filament metering even with normal PLA or rigid filaments.
NOTE: The VREF for the driver in the video might be a bit low. Thanks to @BlackGymkhana for pointing out that the Bondtech 0.6A limit is already the RMS value and the coil limit is 1A. SO the new calculation is:
RMS = 1Amax / 1.41 = 0.709 VRef = (0.709x2.5)/1.77 = ~1V (recommend using ~90% to 100% of this value) so I set it close to 0.9V
If you want to support my work and my channel, you can purchase the install kit here that includes the parts to mount a Bondtech LGX Lite & MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End for the ultimate direct drive setup for your CR10 Smart:
NOTE: After more extensive testing, I am finding that 1mm of retraction is safe (for me) and I am having better results with eliminating stringing. Also, be sure to set your "Retract amount before wipe" to 0% if you are using PrusaSlicer.
You can find all of the 3D printed parts you will need here:
Keep in mind that you will also need to switch two wires on the stepper motor connector to get it to run in the right direction on the Creality printers. See this video here for "de-pinning" one of these connectors:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmCreality CR-10 Smart All Metal Hotend Installation (Using Microswiss CR6-SE Kit)Embrace Making2022-01-21 | In this video I will show you how to install an all metal hotend kit on the Creality CR-10 Smart 3D printer. Currently, there are not too many options listed online specifically for this application... however... the Creality CR6-SE printer is very similar in many ways and the MicroSwiss all metal hotend for the CR6-SE can be very easily made to fit the CR-10 Smart.
Note that this is the fan adapter that I designed. The one listed on the MicroSwiss website does not seem to fit properly. It is too deep and the extruder fan will interfere with the hot end fan shroud cover when you try to install it.
If you want to support my work and my channel, you can purchase the install kit here that includes the parts to mount a Bondtech LGX Lite & MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End for the ultimate direct drive setup for your CR10 Smart:
The entire installation is otherwise very typical of a MicroSwiss all metal hotend installation that you would do on any other 3D printer.
NOTE: One thing I just realized that I forgot to mention in this video is that it would be a good idea to run a PID autotune on your machine with the new hotend. On the CR-10 Smart I think this option is available on the touchscreen with the latest firmware... I'm still running the old firmware and so I was able to do this through the gcode terminal in Octoprint. To connect your CR-10 Smart printer to Octoprint, follow this video here:
In an upcoming video, I will be converting this machine to a direct drive extruder in combination with this hotend. So please subscribe and keep an eye out for that video in the near future!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmeSUN Matte PLA Filament. How Matte? How Strong? Print Settings and Printing Tips!Embrace Making2022-01-13 | In this video we will take a look at eSUN's matte PLA filament and I will take you through the print settings required for this very matte looking material.
I found that this filament does require more attention and care than printing with regular PLA materials so you're going to want to give my print settings a try to get started. This way you will waste less filament trying to find the base settings if you decide to purchase this material.
With this material you can certainly achieve the look of other low sheen materials like carbon fiber nylon if you use their matte black color. eSun sent me almond yellow and matte white to test and you can see how low sheen they are when compared to regular PLA.
You can find available colors and material properties here:
The models printed in this video were printed on three different printers to ensure that any issues I experienced were, in fact, issues with the filament rather than machine issues.
Before starting with your printing, be sure to measure the diameter of the filament at several points to see if you need to bump up your extrusion multiplier like I did.
Fun fact... this material also smells like movie theatre buttery pop corn when you print with it. Some PLA materials have a sweet smell to them (during printing), this one actually smells like buttery pop corn and in the almond yellow color it reminds me of scented markers as a child.
Thank you to eSUN for providing me with this filament for the making of this video!
Hope this video helps you guys and if you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments section below!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmANET A8 Plus Adjustable Z End StopEmbrace Making2021-12-14 | In this video I will show you how to upgrade your ANET A8 Plus 3D printer with an adjustable z end stop. The advantage to using an adjustable z end stop is the ease of adjusting your z offset very quickly and accurately for different filaments, or if your z height position slowly creeps over time. By turning the adjustment knob slightly one way or the other, you can change your offset fractions of a millimeter at a time.
The limit switch bracket that comes with the ANET A8 is fixed and once you loosen the bolts holding it, you lose your z0 reference position and making fine adjustments is incredibly frustrating. This will change all of that and make your life so much easier.
Once installed, you will not have to re-level your print bed since you have not touched your bed level, or anything of that sort. Simply move the print head to the middle of the printer and use the classic "paper gauge" and home your z axis a few times while making adjustments to the thumb screw to dial back in your perfect z height.
Your original limit switch is re-used along with the two small screws that hold it to the metal bracket. What you will need is the following:
► (1) M3x20mm socket head cap screws ► (2) M3x10mm socket head ► (1) M3 nylon locking nut ► (2) M3 T nuts ► (1) M3 brass insert ► 3D printed parts
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmReplace and Upgrade Your 1997 - 2009 GM Key Fob Case! Chevrolet, Pontiac, Buick, GMC, etc.Embrace Making2021-11-08 | Get your replacement key fob case here (they come in pairs):
In this video I present these attractive two tone key fob replacement case for your 1997 - 2009 GM vehicle. This is the case and silicone key pad ONLY, no PCB included.
You will open your original key fob and put the original PCB into the new case as shown in the video.
Multiple colors are available are available but some are custom order and may require a few extra days for manufacture / processing. The bottom half of the case will always be black in color as well as the silicone key pad.
Eventually if I get enough requests for a particular color I will mass produce them and include them as a standard color (no additional cost).
Please see the pictures in the listing of the original GM key fobs that these cases will be compatible with. If you have the 3 button key fob without the trunk release button, it will still work with these cases. Obviously the button on the new keypad will not be functional since your original PCB is not equipped with this function, but the PCB still fits.
From my research, the following GM part numbers should work:
10377295 GENERAL MOTORS 15008008 GENERAL MOTORS 15008009 GENERAL MOTORS 15051014 GENERAL MOTORS 15132197 GENERAL MOTORS 15132198 GENERAL MOTORS 15186200 GENERAL MOTORS 15186201 GENERAL MOTORS 15186203 GENERAL MOTORS 21997127 GENERAL MOTORS 22730827 GENERAL MOTORS 10246215 GENERAL MOTORS 10245953 GENERAL MOTORS 16245100 GENERAL MOTORS 13618 DORMAN 13608 DORMAN
Please post comments and questions below and I will try to get back to everyone!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmHow To Use PrusaSlicer With OctoPrint To Print Directly From Your Slicer!Embrace Making2021-10-29 | In this video I will show you how to install OctoPrint on your RaspberryPi and then interface PrusaSlicer with your OctoPrint such that you can print directly from the slicer environment in just a few clicks.
This all in one solution improves your 3D printing workflow as you no longer have to keep switching between screens and apps and windows to finally get your print started. The best part is that it is extremely easy to do and you'll be up and running in just a few minutes.
What you'll need:
► RaspberryPi and USB-C power adapter ► OctoPi software (can be found in the Raspberry Pi imaging app): raspberrypi.com/news/raspberry-pi-imager-imaging-utility ► 8GB MicroSD card... don't forget that you are no longer using the Creality Wifi board in the printer, so you can take that 8GB SD card and use it for your Pi. Free SD card, woo! ► MicroUSB cable to USB-A male
Optional: ► RaspberryPi Camera Module
Hope this helps! Please post comments and questions below and I will try to get back to everyone!
#DIY #3dPrinting #RaspberryPi
00:00 Intro 00:49 OctoPrint Install 05:44 PrusaSlicer Setup 13:17 Outro
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmCreality CR-10 Smart Long Term Review, Assembly and Creality Cloud Setup GuideEmbrace Making2021-10-29 | In this video I will take you through the assembly / setup and my experience with the Creality CR-10 Smart printer as I have now owned it for several months. I was given this printer for review by SainSmart so please go check them out if you decide that this printer is something you would be interested in:
It boasts a large build volume at 300mm x 300mm x 400mm and features a 32 bit processor along with built in wifi capability using the Creality Cloud app.
This printer has a lot of nice features and it looks like the Creality team put a fair amount of attention to detail into it. The prints that come off this machine are great and there is no doubt it is a very capable printer. I have no complaints there.
However... Creality does have a few things to work on. Namely the firmware. I think the printer has so much potential but they really need to get their firmware in order before releasing products like this. I had a firmware bug where my printer would freeze at the end of a print, leaving the nozzle on. Also, the touchscreen could use more options to allow for more functionality. Although it is a really nice interface, it lacks the depth of functions and options seen in other printers. Also, the user interface could be more intuitive when it comes to setting up important things like bed levelling (manual / auto) as well as setting the z offset.
Overall, I still enjoy using this printer and would recommend it to others who don't mind a little bit of tinkering. If you're looking for something with higher quality control that is guaranteed to work right out of the box I think the market still requires you to spend more money. In this case you get a lot of features for the money but you might have to do a bit of work to tie them all together in a polished package that is easy to use.
I did not cover any modifications to the printer in this video as I wanted to review it in its natural form. However, see the links below for how I solved my auto bed leveling error:
And check here for how I unlocked this printer, allowing me to use OctoPrint and PrusaSlicer to achieve a wireless slicer to print solution that you can use instead of Creality Cloud. I think this is a much more powerful solution.
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmUNLOCK your Creality CR-10 Smart From Creality Cloud and Print Directly From OctoPrint / PrusaSlicerEmbrace Making2021-10-29 | In this video I will show you how you can easily modify your Creality CR-10 Smart to make it even smarter and interface with OctoPrint or your favorite print host. Using OctoPrint and PrusaSlicer you can also slice, upload, and print in a few clicks by connecting PrusaSlicer to OctoPrint. I will take you through the setup step by step and you'll have it working in no time!
What you'll need:
► RaspberryPi and USB-C power adapter ► OctoPi software (can be found in the Raspberry Pi imaging app): raspberrypi.com/news/raspberry-pi-imager-imaging-utility ► 8GB MicroSD card... don't forget that you are no longer using the Creality Wifi board in the printer, so you can take that 8GB SD card and use it for your Pi. Free SD card, woo! ► MicroUSB cable to USB-A male
Optional: ► RaspberryPi Camera Module
This is a great alternative to Creality Cloud due to the app's limitations. You will now also have a G-code terminal where you can send custom G-code commands to check your firmware settings, modify them, and save them. You will now also be able to run PID auto tunes for any modifications you make to your machine.
This should unlock the full potential of your CR-10 Smart and improve your printing experience along with the flexibility of this capable printer.
Hope this helps! Please post comments and questions below and I will try to get back to everyone!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmFix First Layer Adhesion And Auto Bed Level 203 (Probing Failed) Error on Creality CR-10 Smart CR-6Embrace Making2021-10-04 | In this video we will take a look at my findings regarding first layer adhesion issues and the auto bed level 203 (Probing Failed) error on the Creality CR-10 Smart and CR-6 3D printers.
I came across this issue when setting up my CR-10 smart and through my online searching have noticed that many people are having difficulties with this printer. First layer adhesion is problematic for many and some, such as myself, even get the probing error whereby the printer cannot successfully probe the print surface.
To compound the problem, the user interface for setting the z compensation height is not intuitive or user friendly and it is causing more confusion for users.
I will show you how I fixed my 203 error and then went on to successfully probe the bed and use the auto bed leveling feature to lay down some nice prints.
I would also recommend using glue stick... the Creality glass bed isn't that great with adhesion when bare, even when using PLA. A bit of glue stick went a long way in adhesion promotion in my case as well.
For those of you reading this, I would also like to CONFIRM that the printer does, in fact, appear to be making Z height adjustments across the first layer and all subsequent layers on prints when using the auto bed leveling feature. There was speculation from @Teaching Tech that no mesh file is loaded in the gcode and therefore the printer is actually not employing the auto leveling feature to compensate for variations in the print surface. However, I have performed some very large first layer prints spanning a great surface area on the bed and the z couplers are obviously moving during the printing of the first layer, so something is happening here. How it works and where the mesh is being loaded, etc. is not something I have investigated but at least it appears to be working!
Here is some great technical information regarding the Creality strain gauge system in the print head and other troubleshooting techniques:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmFlashforge Foto 8.9 4K Resin Printing Starter Guide, Setup, Review, First Prints & Lessons Learned!Embrace Making2021-09-27 | In this video we are going to be taking a look at the Flashforge Foto 8.9 4K and my experience with this machine as my first resin printer. I'll show you how to set up the printer and how to get started slicing your first files in both the FlashDLPrint software and ChituBox. We will also look at the post processing details of resin printing and the lessons learned as I spent more time with this 3d printer.
We will be taking a look at my first prints on this amazing 4K LCD resin printer and go through some of the issues I had while learning about the resin printing process, its limitations, and how I went about troubleshooting some common problems with various resins I printed with.
We will also take a look at some of the models I printed and how they turned out based on my expectations of the printer.
Some general tips I found to be helpful in finding the correct exposure time for new resin was as follows...
► Loss of detail, small features becoming oversized, supports too difficult to remove, then perhaps the exposure time is too long.
► Models not fully cured, models warping and breaking away from the supports in the middle of a print, models staying stuck to the FEP, loss of detail in small features not showing up at all, then perhaps the exposure time is too short.
All of the models printed in this video were at the 0.1mm layer height. The layer exposure time I found that worked well on the Flashforge Foto 8.9 4K at 0.1mm layer resolution was as follows for each of the tested resins:
► eSun PLA Pro (Black) Resin: 4.7s ► eSun Water Washable Resin (all colors): 6s ► eSun Bio (PLA) Resin (Yellow): 5.2s ► Monocure Rapid (red) Resin: 5.2s ► eSun Hard Tough Resin (white): 6.2s
If you are experiencing z-banding or other z artifacts, you might want to check for thick cross sections in your print. You might be able to re-orient your model to fix this, or maybe you have to hollow it out or even redesign it altogether! Keep in mind that the viscosity of your resin will also contribute to the suction forces.
I found that one of the models I was printing would print fine in the thinner viscosity water washable resin, but I had to redesign the part to get it to work with the Monocure Rapid resin as it seemed much thicker.
Please watch the video in its entirety to see all of the details I discuss regarding my experience with this LCD printer.
Overall I thought it was a great 3D printer. The accuracy and details and it can produce is astounding and the part tolerances are incredible in all directions. The build volume is very generous and should make for a great platform for beginners and advanced users alike.
My complaints were not being able to see through the black lid, not having a pouring spout on the vat, and support in Lychee slicer would be a big bonus if they can make a profile.
for lending me this printer. They are my source for all of my 3D printer needs, both resin and FDM so go support them and check them out! They have great sales and promotions at all times of the year!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmThe Stir & Cure. Automating Your FDM Printer To Wash and Cure Your Resin Printed Parts!Embrace Making2021-09-09 | In this video we will take a look at how I automated my FDM 3D printer to wash and cure my resin printed parts. These modifications are not permanent and you can easily remove the UV enclosure from the top of your printer so that you can continue to use it as a regular FDM printer. This quick and convenient washing and curing system is experimental but seems to do a relatively good job with post processing.
You will, of course, need an FDM printer to do this. If you're into resin 3D printing there is a good chance you may have a FDM printer as well. The video covers the build and assembly of this automated wash and cure station and if you want to build your own you will need the following 3D printed parts:
In addition to the 3D printed parts, you can use the Python script to generate the gcode for the stirring motion on your printer. You can find that here:
In order to control the UV lights in your enclosure, you will need to be running Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi. Download the "Enclosure" plugin as seen in the video and follow the setup as described in the video.
I've found that the best method to washing your 3D printed resin parts is to do a 2 stage wash. 70% IPA or Monocure Resin Away is great for the first wash to do the heavy lifting and get rid of the majority of resin. Use a soft brush to get into all of the little hard to reach places. Then with this system, use 50% IPA to do a quick secondary wash & cure.
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmHow To Eliminate 3D Printer Fumes, Smells, and Odors. Only Fans Extractor Hood (Resin and FDM)Embrace Making2021-08-25 | In this video I show you how to eliminate the smells and potentially harmful fumes coming from your 3D printers using only fans. This method is low cost and requires a minimal investment of your time to enhance your 3D printing experience.
You will need a window nearby to evacuate the fumes and gases. Materials for the project include:
► Plywood or OSB sheet ► Medium density foam ► Dryer / Bathroom Vent ► Flexible Vent Hose ► Economy Bathroom Fan ► Handles... can be found here: ► thingiverse.com/thing:4941045
The great thing about this approach is that it does not depend on the type of window you have and how it opens. By fitting the board into the inside of the window frame it creates a seal whereby the fumes will not back flow through the open window. I have found it to be quite effective so far.
Although a basic bathroom fan has a fairly low CFM rating, placing it in close proximity to source of the odor and fumes will allow it to draw them into the fan and evacuate them quickly.
Currently there seems to be minimal studies done on the potential dangers of fumes / particles / VOCs coming from desktop 3D printers in both the FDM and SLA variety. I have been printing with FDM printers for many years now, but recently I have been using a SLA printer. The resin has quite a strong smell and I personally find it difficult to tolerate.
You may have to come up with your own creative solution to mounting the bathroom fan depending on your set up, but they typically come with a variety of convenient mounting points. It could even be hung on your wall behind your printer similar to hanging a simple picture.
Hopefully this gives you an idea for a cheap and quick way to deal with 3D printer fumes in an otherwise poorly ventilated area.
If you have any questions or comments please put them in the comment section and I will try to answer everyone!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmHow To Install Micro Swiss Direct Drive Kit On ANY 3D Printer (Creality ANET Alfawise Geeetech etc.)Embrace Making2021-08-17 | In this video I will show you how to install the direct drive extruder kit from Micro Swiss on any 3D printer that has the 2020 aluminum extrusion with v slot wheels on the X axis. Although this kit was originally intended for use with the Creality Ender 3 and CR-10 applications, it can be made to work with just about any printer.
This doesn't mean some additional work won't be necessary, however, I worked out some of the issues you might run into and hopefully my solutions work for you. I demonstrate the installation on a ANET ET5X printer and have designed a bunch of custom parts that you may or may not need for your application.
Print the main fan shroud with the 40mm extruder fan face on your print bed. No supports necessary. Print the fan duct in the upright position. No supports necessary.
The fan shroud and fan duct should work with the different varieties of printers, it is not just a solution for non-creality printers. Even if you have a Creality printer, you can use the newly designed shroud and duct work as it will replace your Creality parts.
However, If you have a Creality CR-10 or Ender 3 then you will have a smooth install experience and do not need any custom parts if you do not want to print any. The Micro Swiss kit is well equipped and well designed, all of the parts are of high quality.
Keep in mind that once you install the kit you will likely need to make some firmware changes or slicer setting changes. I go through several of those changes, but don't forget to change your retraction settings in your slicer as well! Bowden tube set ups usually run ~5+mm of retraction whereas a direct drive set up will use around 1mm.
If you have any questions or comments please put them in the comment section and I will try to answer everyone!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmANET A8 Plus Assembly Guide, Setup, Review, Easy Upgrades (STLs Included). Is This Printer Worth It?Embrace Making2021-08-10 | The ANET A8 Plus is an entry level printer and its smaller predecessor, the A8, had been based on the Prusa i3 machines. The A8 plus adds volume with a build size of 300mm x 300mm x 350mm which is quite generous considering the low cost of this machine.
The frame is an all metal extrusion construction making it very stable and stiff. It comes with a direct drive extruder, heated print bed, and simple LCD screen.
Overall this kit is fairly simple to assemble, however, it will take you some time to do. Pay close attention to the details while assembling to get the most of out of your printer later. Also, keep a close watch on the quality of parts as you are likely to get some sub-par quality parts in a kit with a price this low. Don't expect a turn key printer out of the box, and do expect to have to get creative at times.
My biggest complaints about this machine is the lack of strain relief, no wire management, and lack of grommets for wires passing through metal enclosures. The heated bed connector and cable is also inadequate for the application. I would be happy to pay more for a printer that addresses these issues. I have tried to rectify some of these problems with my own design files that you can find here:
That being said, this printer prints surprisingly well if you take good care in setting it up properly. The direct drive extruder meters filament well, and small details come out sharp in fine prints. The simplicity of the machine makes it a good candidate for fun and simple future upgrades and would be a good platform to build your knowledge of 3D printing.
I did not include slicer settings in this video but you should be able to find slicer profiles for A8 machines online quite easily. It is a very popular platform. You can also start with other generic printer profiles from other popular machines like the Creality machines. Select a Creality machine with a direct drive extruder and get that slicer profile... adjust the printer dimensions and you should have something that works nicely.
I would recommend this machine for beginners and advanced users alike. In either case you would be looking for a hobby printer and a project, not a ready to use tool. If you are looking for a more straightforward experience in getting printing, I would suggest the ANET ET5X as it is much easier to assemble and the print quality is also good. The overall machine is more well thought out than the A8 and is only slightly more expensive.
ANET A8 Plus. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you): amzn.to/3PP71Bk
If you have any questions about the assembly, the printer, etc, please post your comments in the comment section down below. I try and get back to everyone.
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Thomas Sanladerer youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladererHow To Install Mirror Covers / Caps / Turn Signals on Audi / Volkswagen Vehicles (Shown on 2014 A7)Embrace Making2021-07-30 | In this video I will show you how to remove and replace your Audi and Volkswagen mirror caps / covers and integrated turn signals. You can then install carbon fiber, brushed aluminum, chrome, or painted mirror caps / covers and replace your turn signal with a smoked lens turn signal or dynamic LED turn signals.
Although this video is demonstrated on an Audi A7, the procedure is very similar for most Audi and Volkswagen vehicles. Many of these cars have a similarly designed two piece mirror cover system and there are only small differences between the models so you should be able to use this guide even if you don't have an Audi A7.
You will only need 2 tools for this whole procedure and that is:
► T10 torx screw drivers ► Flat heat screw driver
Remember to take your time and be patient especially if this is your first time doing this. You will need to apply a reasonable amount of force to remove the glass mirror and the covers, but don't go overboard. If something doesn't feel right, stop and take a minute to re-evaluate the situation and see if you are missing something. You want to avoid breaking the plastic clips.
Another tip... do this in the summer when it is warm outside. Your plastic will be much more compliant and pliable and less likely to break. If you do this in the winter you will absolutely break things.
If you have any questions or if you have comments that might help others out, please put them in the comment section below.
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmThe New Standard For PLA+ ? IIID Max Filament Printing Guide and ReviewEmbrace Making2021-07-28 | Are you looking for a reliable and affordable PLA+ for your general 3D printing needs? IIID Max PLA+ is an economical filament that prints buttery smooth at a variety of temperatures and is very easy to use.
In this video I will take you through my print settings and show you how stable this PLA material is at a variety of printing temperatures. We'll go through some interesting prints and inspect them for quality and precision.
For this video I also designed a metric t handle hex set holder for my peg board. If you guys are looking for that model, I made it available here:
All of the prints in this video were made on the ANET ET5X (unless otherwise noted in the video). This is a very economical printer comparable to the Creality CR-10 series so you don't need expensive equipment to pull off nice prints like these!
I would highly recommend this filament for general purpose 3D printing and you can find it at Digitmakers.ca
Check out the variety of attractive colors this filament comes in and give some a try. You won't be disappointed!
If you guys have any questions or comments please leave them below and I will try and respond to each and every one of you :)
Disclaimer: I was not paid in any way to do this video. The only form of compensation I received was the two sample rolls of filament (gold and orange).
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmRaspberry Pi 4B TURBO Case With Integrated Camera Mount (3D Printable - Great for Octoprint!)Embrace Making2021-07-19 | Do you need a sleek and functional case for your Raspberry Pi 4B? How about one that has an integrated adjustable camera mount for the raspberry pi cam? Would you like to 3D print it? Well look no further...
In this video I will show you the design changes I made to the nifty case that was originally designed by 219 design. You can find the original here:
I've kept the design feature from the original whereby you can flip the lid 180 degrees to flush fit the lid, or provide small gaps to allow wires to pass through for access to the GPIO pins.
My design changes allow you to run a 40mm fan that you most likely have laying around if you are into 3D printing. The large fan opening with fan duct make for a more interesting and attractive "turbo" design. On the GPIO pin side I have also included more openings for improved air flow.
I've beefed up the snap hooks on the lid so they don't break and made a myriad of other changes to allow for a better 3D printing experience of all of the parts.
At the top, you'll notice a hook for convenient mounting on a pegboard / screw / T-nut etc. Get creative and the possibilities are endless.
The enclosure can be run without a fan and without the camera mount as shown in the video. If you orient your lid 180 degrees, the camera mount / fan duct mounts are symmetrical so you can flip those around so your camera is always upright.
The only hardware you need is for the camera mount / fan duct:
#4 x 1/4" plastic tapping screws #4 x 3/4" plastic tapping screws M3 x 20mm socket head cap screw M3 nylon locking nut
If you guys have any questions, please put them in the comment section down below, I will try and help everyone out!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmSwitch Your Switch! Change From Auto Bed Level Back To Adjustable Z End Stop (Creality, ANET, etc.)Embrace Making2021-07-09 | In this video I will show you how to change your 3D printer back from a problematic auto bed leveling (ABL) system to the reliable mechanical end stop switch.
It isn't much work and requires you to only identify the GND and trigger wire from your auto bed leveling sensor. You should use a multimeter to confirm the process by which your printer "sees" the signal from your sensor. In most cases the trigger / signal pin normally sits at 3.3V or 5V and is pulled to GND when the sensor is tripped. You can then use a mechanical end stop switch to do the same by wiring the signal pin and a GND wire to the NO (normally open) pins on the end stop. When the mechanical end stop is triggered, the signal pin will then be connected to GND and perform the same function as the auto bed level sensor.
I used the Creality Y-Axis switch that can be found at the link below. It comes with a mounting plate and you simply use a M3 T-slot nut to attach the limit switch to the front of the X gantry profile. If you need the part check the link below. As an Amazon associate I may make a small commission (at no extra cost to you).
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmThe ULTIMATE Creality Ender Extruder Upgrade? Bondtech DDX and Mosquito Magnum complete walkthrough!Embrace Making2021-07-01 | This video is a complete walkthrough for the Bondtech DDX extruder upgrade for your Creality 3D printer. I am also installing a Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum hot end with 50W heater cartridge and 300 degree thermistor. This combination gives superior extrusion performance over the standard Creality extruder / hot end combination. I am taking advantage of the increased capabilities and will be running a 0.8mm nozzle for higher throughput and lower print times.
The upgrades are being performed on a Creality Ender 5 PLUS, however, most of the procedure is nearly identical for most Creality machines as they use so many of the same parts. Also, if you just want the DDX extruder and you want to reuse your Creality hot end, you can do that too! The Bondtech DDX is a modular extruder where different adapters can be used to mate different hot ends. If you are not using a Mosquito Magnum hot end, find the right adapter (the Creality adapter comes in the Creality kit that can be purchased from Bondtech).
Various links and resources can be found below that will provide even more information for this swap. Overall it is not too difficult, just take your time and make sure your wiring is safe!
Mosquito Magnum Hot End here (use this link to access discounts or code CHRIC5)
Or you can download the version that I designed for free here... make sure you print this in a high temp material. PLA probably won't cut it. This link also includes the strain relief I designed for the DDX:
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmCraftBot Plus Pro Setup, Getting Started, What I Think and What You Need to Know! (PLA, ABS, PETG)Embrace Making2021-05-28 | In this video I'm going to share my experience with the CraftBot Plus Pro 3D printer with you. Everything from it's specifications, to the initial setup, the Craftware software, and the multitude of prints I was able to accomplish in a variety of materials like PLA, PETG, and even ABS!
This 3d printer is appropriately nicknamed "The Tank" and it carries a 5 year warranty from CraftBot. This should be some indication of the level of confidence they have in the quality of their product. This is not your average sub $500 Chinese machine.
Everything worked great right out of the box for me and I had very little tweaking to do with material settings from the presets that were available in the Craftware software. This 3D printer easily conquered the ABS prints that I threw at it and I only had one or two parts lift off the print bed through an entire roll of ABS. The optional dome cover and door aided in preventing cold drafts from entering the build chamber. The filter on the dome also helped eliminate some of the odor associated with ABS printing.
I think it is evident that CraftBot has spent a lot of time on both the software and hardware development to bring a complete package to its customer base without compromise.
This is one of the few desktop 3D printers where I felt confident enough in the printer to leave it running over night or unattended while I was not home. The level of quality and attention to detail on this machine is fantastic and I would highly encourage you to look into it.
Get your own CraftBot Plus Pro at an official distributor like Digitmakers. They were kind enough to lend me this printer for several months to make this video!
If you have any questions about my experience with the printer, please leave your comments and questions down below. I would love to share my thoughts with you!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!
► Drivetribe youtube.com/channel/UChiwLDIBJrV5SxqdixMHmHow To Build A BIG Workbench In One Day! STRONG, Easy, Inexpensive! (Amazon Hopkins 2x4 Basics)Embrace Making2021-03-28 | In this video I will show you how to build a BIG and STRONG workbench in one day! It mainly uses 2x4 lumber for most of the elements so it is also quite inexpensive but will be exceptionally strong.
You could build the whole thing with just a drill and a circular saw, but of course more advanced tools will make your life easier. I would rate this build as beginner level and would be a great weekend project to build your first workbench. If you are more experienced you will fly through this build with ease and end up with an amazing workbench to add to your tool collection.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you): The legs and shelf stands came as a kit from "2x4 Basics" and you can find them here:
Beyond that, regular construction screws, a few 2x2's and some 3/4" plywood and pegboard was used.
This would be a great workbench for many uses including general assembly and projects, an electronics lab, a 3D printing table, automotive work, crafting, woodworking, and so on. It has plenty of storage space with an optional second shelf on the bottom (I only used one shelf in this video) and you can customize the dimensions to anything that will fit your needs or your space!
If you have any questions be sure to put them in the comment section, I try to get back to everyone. Thank you!
By supporting my channel you are encouraging me to continue with this time consuming endeavor. A lot of time goes into design work, building my projects, filming the videos, editing the videos, etc. Plus it all costs money! Your generosity goes a long way in helping me bring you better content as often as I can!