Abby Cox
How to Make Your Antique Clothes Last for Another Century(ish) | Home Clothing Conservation
updated
Everyone seems to think that Louis XIV took only 2 (or 3) baths during his entire life, even respectable sources make this claim, but is it true? Or are we just missing some additional context? Understanding hygienic practices in history can be confusing - very often they're weird and different compared to our modern beliefs, but sometimes things can get a bit too weird and it's worth a deeper investigation. So, if you've heard this factoid before, this video is for you.
I also want to apologize to my French audience for how bad my French was in this entire video, I would say that I'll never do it again, but, if we're being honest with ourselves, that's not true.
Get yourself the cutest dang corset pin and nerd tote here: store.dftba.com/collections/abby-cox?srsltid=AfmBOorh0XqXvHshNgZfyVFWfunJUa1QhI0tyBrwAjEJilBE5MJbRSdY
Keep Watching:
What you get wrong about Lice & Hygiene in History: youtube.com/watch?v=s2ALFBiMHV8
The Disgusting Truth about Laundry: youtube.com/watch?v=dX9H4_xbvhc
@KazRowe The Endless Horror of tiktok's historical misinformation: youtube.com/watch?v=l4NflBAcsJ4&t=441s
Chapters:
00:00 - 01:44 - Bonjour Y'all!
01:45 - 10:39 - Part 1: Was Louis XIV "Hygienic"
10:40 - 12:22 - Bathrooms at Versailles
12:23 - 23:17 - So How Many Baths DID Louis Take?
23:18 - 24:10 - Bloopers
Sources:
Journal de la santé du roi Louis XIV de l'année 1647 à l'année 1711 / écrit par Vallot, d'Aquin et Fagon,... ; avec introd., notes... par J.-A. Le Roi,...: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k203302w/f132.item#
Concepts of Cleanliness: Changing Attitudes in France Since the Middle Ages: archive.org/details/conceptsofcleanl0000viga
The Clean Body: A Modern History by Peter Ward
The Early History of Cleanliness in America: jstor.org/stable/1894408
Duke Saint Simon gutenberg.org/files/3875/3875-h/3875-h.htm (there are other versions on the internet, btw)
Video Edited by MJ: nodotspost.com
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The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Dress Reformers & the Victorian anti-corset crowd loved promoting the Equipoise waist as a great corset "alternative", but when you dig a little deeper (and just so happen to sew one up based on an original antique)...the line between what is and is not a corset begins to blur...a lot.
Keep Watching!
The Fashion History of Aesthetics: youtu.be/iMiE90AnvFk
Investigating Victorian Sewing Machine Attachments: youtu.be/rM87acTKbTk
What Sewing a Victorian Corset Taught Me About Fashion Fashion:
youtu.be/qu8fsEaa1bM
🥳Socials
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Instagram: instagram.com/iamabbycox
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Join this channel to get access to perks:
youtube.com/channel/UCiXol9ugjOxHHrpkdD0fZZg/join
📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Ok, we all know the 1790s for the absolute chaos it brought: the French Revolution and the super relatable guillotine jewelry, etc. But we totally overlook the absolutely ridiculous "OMG WOMEN AND GIRLS ALL WANNA LOOK PREGNANT" Trend that kicked off in the spring of 1793 (and the shift in women's fashion that would last until the mid- 1820s!) Newspapers, magazines, and [male] artists were so bothered about how women were wearing belly pads under their skirts to look pregnant...but is it true? Did women *actually* wear padding to appear pregnant or is something else happening (like full skirts under the bust + shorter stays that gave the appearance of a fuller abdomen...you know...logical things...)
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📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
#ad #tudor #myladyjane
🥳Socials
Website: abbycoxcreates.com
Instagram: instagram.com/iamabbycox
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Join this channel to get access to perks:
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📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
If you'd like to make your own version of this corset (and if you do - tag me!!!) go here: store.dftba.com/collections/abby-cox/products/1880-1890s-antique-victorian-corset-pattern-pdf
If you were ever curious as to why I'm so passionate about fashion history, this video is a really great example as to why.
Sources:
Report of the Commission to Investigate Conditions of Wage-Earning Women and Minors, Appointed by the Governor, 1911. Published by the State, 1913. google.com/books/edition/Report_of_the_Commission_to_Investigate/GPQsAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&pg=PA7&printsec=frontcover
A Trade School for Girls: A Preliminary Investigation In a Typical Manufacturing City. Worcester, Mass. 1913. google.com/books/edition/A_Trade_School_for_Girls/640aAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=a%20trade%20school%20for%20girls%20a%20preliminary%20investigation%20in%20a%20typical%20manufacturing%20city&pg=PA1&printsec=frontcover
Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675-1791. Clare Crowston. amzn.to/4b3ekPO
🥳Socials
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Join this channel to get access to perks:
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📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Another year, another Met Gala hot mess by Kim Kardashian! At least this time it was academically interesting (at least to me) as someone who is currently researching corset wearing and women's relationship with the garment from the 1700s-1900s. Kim is also an excellent example of tight lacing gone "wrong", which has excellent parallels to Victorian writings about corsets and tight lacing. Finally, because I keep seeing this silly critique going around: the sweater + formal gown combo was not unique to Kim, but was actually on the Maison Margiela runway. It's a part of the brand's broader styling choices for that couture collection, even if her story to explain it's appearance was cringey. 🤣
If you wanna see the video about the Met Gala mess of 2022, where Kim wore Marilyn Monroe's dress and destroyed it (and how we really needed to place more blame on Ripley's, Vogue, and even the Met itself than her...as controversial of a take as that was...): youtube.com/watch?v=vro6Df57YsQ&t=505s
Here's my video breaking down the different historical influences from Couture Fashion week (including Robe de Styles & Merkins lol): youtube.com/watch?v=hcFYSFEfHUw&t=1s
Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection 2024: youtube.com/watch?v=DgMJq67ZOwE&t=9s
Videos used, if you want to see them in their entirety: Inside Inside Kim Kardashian's Dream Met Gala Look I Vogue: youtube.com/watch?v=F69AJ1qG8A4&t=325s
Kim Kardashian West gets fitted for her waist-snatching met gala look I Vogue: youtube.com/watch?v=Bk0G1f4DpCM&t=89s
Live at the Met Gala 2024 with Vogue: youtube.com/watch?v=JGVq7J5_sTk&t=7484s
Academic resources via Nineteenth Century Collections online &
Hathi Trust: babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=nyp.33433104199363&seq=9 (Peterson's Magazine, just search corset and the passage will come up - I highly recommend reading the whole thing!)
Finally, big hugs and thanks to Kenna and her 10305824058 masters' degrees for her editorial assistance on the script for this video. ❤️
🥳Socials
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Instagram: instagram.com/iamabbycox
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Join this channel to get access to perks:
youtube.com/channel/UCiXol9ugjOxHHrpkdD0fZZg/join
📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Just like how the myths around corsets survive because it's shocking, the same can be said for how folks (mis)understand the beliefs & practices around basic body hygiene since the medieval period. So, just to cover our bases:
Yes, people washed their bodies before 1920.
No, not everyone had lice.
Yes, people cared about looking clean and smelling nice.
No, people didn't want to sleep or live in filth.
Now, let's dig into the meat of it all.
Sources:
Kathleen Brown Foul Bodies: Cleanliness in Early America amzn.to/44eUyz2 (affiliate link)
Lord Chesterfield's Letters (Letter CXXIII) gutenberg.org/cache/epub/3361/pg3361-images.html#link2H_4_0125
Potawatomi Health & Wellness Center Lice Treatment: cmh.fcpotawatomi.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/32/2016/02/Getting-Rid-of-Head-Lice-in-37-Challenging-Steps.pdf
Jan Radicke, Roman Women's Dress, degruyter.com/document/doi/10.1515/9783110711554-039/html
Yones, D.A., Bakir, H.Y. & Bayoumi, S.A.L. Chemical composition and efficacy of some selected plant oils against Pediculus humanus capitis in vitro. Parasitol Res 115, 3209–3218 (2016).
Toilet de Flora (1772) books.google.com/books/about/The_Toilet_of_Flora_Or_A_Collection_of_t.html?id=ffMHAAAAQAAJ
*Keep watching:*
I tried a 300-year-old hair care routine for a year: youtu.be/FnBniAE2wiE?si=-OKd8xTiHLDAuYpE
Answering your most asked questions about my "i tried a 300 year old hair care routine": youtu.be/dlSTjCuQrMg?si=Mg9TzvB7F78DnSw3
I made 250-year-old Hair Products: youtu.be/G0XKXBEleVY?si=Y7Fr8r9nVIl7XWXp
Why the mullet is the most popular hairstyle of all time: youtu.be/GdJ10UBa6oE?si=fB_BIpvF3xJ9rZAY
Making 300 year old SLIME for Laundry Day: youtu.be/wx01bZCOuW4?si=HFKbaaLgCRegU-5P
What's the deal with 18th century wigs? youtu.be/pR0ph5r9jmw?si=lpdaaXC_mlwxkgI2
The disgusting truth about laundry: youtu.be/dX9H4_xbvhc?si=o7rWLFlW6vP3zBZx
Historian Reacts to Weird History (ugh): youtu.be/PIYUVHIUdfM?si=TkGEmCxokWtuGIZF
The Surprisingly Aristocratic History of Unnatural Hair Dye: youtu.be/CKiWqdvtG-4?si=PsJVIZZYjSgQ0DWX
@KazRowe Exploring the Wild Gay History of the YMCA youtube.com/watch?v=aEHM59cvDM0&t=434s
Chapters:
00:00 - 02:01 - Things that annoy me
02:02 - 08:33 - Part 1: Linen Fresh
08:34 - 13:50 - Part 2: Hygiene & Social Class
13:51 - 22:36 - Part 3: Lice, Lice, Baby
22:27 - 30:58 - Part 4: 1700s Hair Hygiene
🥳Socials
Website: abbycoxcreates.com
Instagram: instagram.com/iamabbycox
Patreon: patreon.com/abbycox
Tiktok: tiktok.com/@iamabbycox
Join this channel to get access to perks:
youtube.com/channel/UCiXol9ugjOxHHrpkdD0fZZg/join
📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
If you want to watch my video about the history of the invention of the sewing machine, including the biggest copyright infringement cat fight between two grown men (Elias Howe and Isaac Singer) click here: youtube.com/watch?v=xI-tLfa8KeE
Edge Stitcher Instructions: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-edgestitcher-manual.pdf
This is the best website for all things vintage and antique sewing machines: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html
🥳Socials
Website: abbycoxcreates.com
Instagram: instagram.com/iamabbycox
Patreon: patreon.com/abbycox
Tiktok: tiktok.com/@iamabbycox
Join this channel to get access to perks:
youtube.com/channel/UCiXol9ugjOxHHrpkdD0fZZg/join
📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Ok, so this started out as just a rabbit hole for me, and then, in typical fashion, it's spiraled out of control and became a video. So please enjoy this ridiculous deep dive into the history myth of crinoline fires, and the really sad story of how Oscar Wilde's half-sisters (Mary & Emily) died from a tragic fire accident at a Halloween Party in 1871...
Sources:
McMahon, Theo. “The Tragic Deaths in 1871 in County Monaghan of Emily and Mary Wilde-Half-Sisters of Oscar Wilde.” Clogher Record 18, no. 1 (2003): 129–45. doi.org/10.2307/27699497.
I haven't read this book, so I can't vouch for it, but it looks interesting: The Irish Coroner: Death, murder and politics in Co. Monaghan, 1846-78 by Michelle McGoff-McCann amzn.to/3PkQDdN (affiliate)
Historic newspapers and periodicals from various databases via ProQuest, Gale, and Accessible Archives.
🥳Socials
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Join this channel to get access to perks:
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📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
1920s Robe de Styles, Victorian Leg o' Mutton sleeves, Merkins, and Corsets are just four of the quirky historical fashion trends that I saw during Couture fashion week. So let's dig into their fashion history!
Ref W Corset Pattern from Atelier Sylphe: etsy.com/listing/97860631/ref-w-pdf-digital-file-antique-edwardian?click_key=60894bae020d56d9d60fe665ef01a5e15afa7609%3A97860631&click_sum=0004d910&ref=shop_home_active_3&crt=1
Here are the shows if you want to watch them in full!
Jean Paul Gaultier/Simone Rocha: youtube.com/watch?v=WemmtzJLerQ&t=51s
Schiaparelli: youtube.com/watch?v=HWDjam3DNYE
Julien Fournie: youtube.com/watch?v=5i8IftACl4M&t=124s
Maison Margiela: youtube.com/watch?v=DgMJq67ZOwE&t=2s
Lena Erziak: youtube.com/watch?v=QxRiHyE2zyQ&t=13s
Stephane Rolland: youtube.com/watch?v=cS57GdTcYgM&t=23s
🥳Socials
Website: abbycoxcreates.com
Instagram: instagram.com/iamabbycox
Patreon: patreon.com/abbycox
Tiktok: tiktok.com/@iamabbycox
Join this channel to get access to perks:
youtube.com/channel/UCiXol9ugjOxHHrpkdD0fZZg/join
📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
@NicoleRudolph 's video about Chanel: youtube.com/watch?v=km4dJCGZXFY&t=2s
References:
Archive issues of Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Women's Wear Daily, and newspapers via ProQuest.
Some archival footage via Alexander Street archives.
The Guardian: theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/jun/02/toxics-apparel-nike-adidas-reach
European Environmental Agency: https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/microplastics-from-textiles-towards-a
Other footage & references from:
How Under Armor Fell Flat youtube.com/watch?v=hTjUyXB67mg&t=89s
Fast Fashion: The dumping ground for unwanted clothes Oct 2021 youtube.com/watch?v=MHnDqelUh-4&t=127s
The fast fashion graveyard in Chile’s Atacama Desert - BBC News Feb 2022 youtube.com/watch?v=uyHgY2O__fY&t=132s
October 2, 1977: Arnold — 70’s-style - 60 Minutes March 2018 youtube.com/watch?v=nT00qRk5LkQ
00:00 - 02:26 - Intro ft. a cute dog
02:27 - 08:58 - The Origins of Athleisure (1910s & 20s)
08:59 - 13:44 - The 1970s
13:45 - 21:26 - Destroying the Environment
21:27 - 30:46 - Ruining Fashion & Denim
🥳Socials
Website: abbycoxcreates.com
Instagram: instagram.com/iamabbycox
Patreon: patreon.com/abbycox
Tiktok: tiktok.com/@iamabbycox
Join this channel to get access to perks:
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📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Turns out, trashy novels are just as much a part of the American literature legacy as the "classics"...
If you wanna read some dime novels, Northern Illinois University has a nice searchable database: https://dimenovels.lib.niu.edu/
If you wanna watch @MorganDonner and I be silly little Love Nuns at the Ohio Renaissance Faire: youtube.com/watch?v=2m99hATxE6M&t=61s
👗Green Velvet Dress in Parts 1 & 2 is from Voriagh! en.voriagh.com/misha-embroidered-ivy-green-velvet-dress.html (not sponsored or gifted - bought w/ my own money)
Outfit from Parts 3 & 4 - Pants are Ralph Lauren from 2018 and sweater is thrifted.
📚My books:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
📑*References...*(wooboy 😰)
Bloomberg bloomberg.com/opinion/articles/2023-11-08/fourth-wing-and-iron-flame-author-rebecca-yarros-needs-a-reality-check?embedded-checkout=true
Fast Company: fastcompany.com/90722994/how-book-lovers-on-tiktok-are-changing-the-publishing-industry
Publisher's Weekly: publishersweekly.com/pw/by-topic/industry-news/financial-reporting/article/88225-print-book-sales-rose-8-9-in-2021.html & publishersweekly.com/pw/by-topic/industry-news/publisher-news/article/92242-penguin-random-house-sourcebooks-buy-callisto-assets.html
Publishing Perspective: publishingperspectives.com/2019/05/sourcebooks-and-penguin-random-house-in-collaborative-partnership-prh-45-percent
Entangled Publishing: entangledpublishing.com/about-us
New York Times: nytimes.com/2019/10/01/dining/cookbook-publishing.html?searchResultPosition=1
Wordsrated: wordsrated.com/impact-of-book-publishing-on-environment/#:~:text=For%20the%20US%20alone%2C%20the,largest%20industrial%20greenhouse%20gas%20emitter.
Variety: variety.com/2023/tv/news/iron-flame-misprint-apology-fourth-wing-publisher-1235787765/?fbclid=PAAabeu-n39biLa4-LgAozOuTW9kziznxQXCoC7MsuRp4OH02PODwtTge3EC0_aem_ATzaTXcrHGRCVgIpuU5DHE1u8DYlfpqcatEV3ssr67D1cU3R4SgJqAPMArzj4IyjodQ
Bloomsbury Stockholders Report via Tiktok: tiktok.com/@emilystheories/video/7309885802102787330?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7176729631919228458
From Submission to Acquisition: mikechenwriter.medium.com/from-submission-to-acquisition-what-happens-after-you-get-a-literary-agent-c5c44688a5a0
Impact of Fast Fashion on the Environment: https://psci.princeton.edu/tips/2020/7/20/the-impact-of-fast-fashion-on-the-environment
Fashion Fashion: https://www.fush.rs/news/fast-fashion/#:~:text=What%20is%20the%20biggest%20problem,million%20belongs%20to%20fast%20fashion.
Vox: vox.com/culture/22687960/book-shortage-paper-ink-printing-labor-explained
Michael Denning, "Cheap Stories: Notes on Popular Fiction and Working-Class Culture in 19th Century America" jstor.org/stable/4288715
Rebecca Wingo, "The Forgotten Era: Race and Gender in Ann Stephens's Dime Novel Frontier" jstor.org/stable/10.5250/fronjwomestud.38.3.0121
Newspaper and magazine clippings are taken from ProQuest, Gale Nineteenth-Century Collections Online, and Archive.org.
Chapters:
00:00 - 02:20 - OoOhH Drama!
02:21 - 09:53 - The (Feminine) History of the Dime Novel
09:54 - 16:16 - Snobbery & Elitism in American Literature
16:17 - 28:13 - How Modern Publishing Works
28:14 - 38:41 - Does Publishing have a "Fast Fashion" Problem?
38:42 - 39:53 - I'm a mess.
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(This video is kindly sponsored by Brooklinen)💗
Gloves, Rings, and Cookies were all considered required gifts for funerals during the 1600-early 1900s. And no, you didn't give them to the grieving family, the family gave them to you. And, well, I think it's weird and I wanted to tell you all more about it. Let's give it up for another video essay talking about more weird things Victorians did! 😂
Funeral Biscuit Recipe from 1828-1830: google.com/books/edition/The_New_Whole_Art_of_Confectionary/iOcqAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=funeral
Steven C. Bullock, “Often Concerned in funerals: Ritual, Material Culture, and the Large Funeral in the Age of Samuel Sewall”, New Views of New England: Studies in Material and Visual Culture, 1680-1830, Volume 82, Colonial Society of Massachusetts. colonialsociety.org/node/1416#rch09
Gentlemen's Magazine, 1790: google.com/books/edition/The_Gentleman_s_Magazine/9T83AAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=funeral
Steven C. Bullock, and Sheila McIntyre. “The Handsome Tokens of a Funeral: Glove-Giving and the Large Funeral in Eighteenth-Century New England.” The William and Mary Quarterly 69, no. 2 (2012): 305–46. doi.org/10.5309/willmaryquar.69.2.0305.
Scottish Funeral Traditions, Macmillan Magazine 1882: google.com/books/edition/Macmillan_s_Magazine/r4hHAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=funeral+biscuit&pg=PA163&printsec=frontcover
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#facereading #history
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#victorian #prettyprivilege #history
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#facereading #physiognomy #skullshapes #theick #history
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Here’s Clare Crowston’s book! Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675–1791 https://a.co/d/eZN55nD
Im so happy to have an excuse to tell you all the history if the mantua maker and how women’s fashion was connected to womens independence!
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I found a makeup tutorial from 1987, a bunch of 1980s vintage dresses, busted out my hot rollers and gave myself a makeover. Long Live Teal Eyeliner!
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#facereading #scrapbook #history
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#marieantoinette #18thcenturyfashion #fashionhistory
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#birchliving
Huge thank you and hugs to @Sewstine @freshfrippery and @NamiSparrow for their contributions, support, and input on this video. Please go check out their channels and their Instagram accounts! They're all amazing creators. ❤️
Here are some other videos & articles addressing this issue on different platforms:
saakamalik on tiktok: tiktok.com/@saakamalik/video/7267003572112559406?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7176729631919228458
youtube.com/watch?v=EdhuUTVRdFU&t=1s
https://www.chicagobooth.edu/review/why-reading-faces-is-dangerous-game
hitc.com/en-gb/2023/08/15/angel-skull-vs-witch-skull-is-tiktoks-latest-wild-beauty-standard
Here are my academic secondary resources:
Susan Branson, "Phrenology and the Science of Race in Antebellum America". Early American Studies, Winter 2017. Pg. 164-193 via JSTOR
Photography in the Third Reich: Art Physiognomy and Propaganda. Open Book Publishers. 2021. https://www.academia.edu/81490845/Photography_in_the_Third_Reich?f_ri=3356
Matthais Uecker, "The Face of the Weimar Republic Photography, Physiognomy, and Propaganda in Weimar Germany". Monatshefte, Winter 2007. via JSTOR
Thosaeng Chaochuti, "What Evil Looked Like: The Practice of Reading the Criminal Body in 19th and 20th century Europe". PhD Dissertation. UCLA. 2008 via Proquest
Greggor Mattson, "Nation-State Science: Lappology and Sweden's Ethnoracial Purity." Comparative Studies in Society and HIstory. April 2014. Cambridge University Press. Via JSTOR
All primary sources found via Gale Primary Resources, ProQuest, or Archive.org.
Physiognomy is back and trending on Tiktok as "face reading"...as well as phrenology via the canthal tilt effect and the angel vs. witch skull videos. This is dangerous, and we need to discuss the history of these pseudo sciences. Face reading isn't a cute little game to play with your friends, it was used as a tool of harm for hundreds of years.
00:00 - 02:00 - Tiktok has a Face Reading Problem
02:01 - 10:34 - What are Physiognomy & Phrenology?
10:35 - 24:18 - The Ugly History
24:19 - 38:38 - Modern Face Reading and Tiktok
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Huge thanks and big hugs to @KazRowe @NicoleRudolph and @thatrobertshouse4350 for helping me with this video and in general being hilarious and supportive friends. ❤️
Victorian mothers and fathers obviously enjoyed talking about their children, but they really loved talking about ugly children. The more revolting, the better - especially when it wasn't about their children being the ugly ones. But you know what's even more shocking? That the 200 year old tradition of obsessing over your child's appearance has a direct link to today's "almond mom" and the toxic diet culture of the 1990s and early 2000s. While it feels like society is still missing steps in the name of progress, I guess, ironically, we can definitely see how we've made some improvements, at least when it comes to how media speaks to children.
Research for this video was conducted using the following archival databases:
Nineteenth Century Collections Online (Gale)
Eighteenth Century Collections Online (Gale)
Women's Magazine Archive (ProQuest)
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NATIVE DEODORANT REVIEW #NativePartner #Deodorant #AluminumFree
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📪 Abby Cox
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**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
So who do you think owned this group of artifacts on the Titanic? 👀
Sources:
encyclopedia-titanica.org - for the list of passengers, photos, and basic info (also low key this site is old af and if you end up on the forums you can find precious early 2000s interneting and conversations and it's very nostalgic)
https://www.abc.net.au/pacific/programs/pacificbeat/pig-tusk-amid-titanic-wreckage-raise-questions-of-a-pacific-link/102471866
newsweek.com/mysterious-megalodon-shark-tooth-necklace-found-titanic-wreck-1802874
piccadillyvaults.com/0601643
divemagazine.com/scuba-diving-news/megalodon-tooth-necklace-found-in-titanic-debris
Original Newspaper Clippings from ProQuest Historical Newspapers database and Nineteenth Century Collections Online database
Newspaper
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birchliving.com/abbycox to get 20% off your Birch mattress (plus two free Eco-Rest pillows!).
#birchliving
I've pooled together a team of 18th century ladies to speak about fashions from the era. They may or may not know what they're talking about. 😅
If you haven't been to the Female Fashion Advice subreddit it's here: reddit.com/r/femalefashionadvice
(Sadly, it seems like they've finally gone back to modern fashion, but it looks like they've left up the 18th century questions - which a lot of them have *hilarious* answers and is definitely a fun read)
If you wanna know how to make the gowns I wear in this video you can buy the book! The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
And here's how I do my hair:
The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
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Turns out, I really don't like sticking my hand in a bowl of laundry starch. That stuff is ✨disgusting✨ However, it was really fun to see how well this 1717 clear starching/laundry tutorial worked, even if sometimes the instructions weren't the clearest. 🤣
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NATIVE DEODORANT REVIEW #NativePartner #Deodorant #AluminumFree
I hope my commentary about the new Queen Charlotte/Bridgerton series makes sense, and I do hope you all enjoy this little tangent about 18th century hair, hygiene, health, wigs, gender, and fashion!
Here's the link to Emma Markiewicz's PhD: http://wrap.warwick.ac.uk/66909
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Ever since I studied Julia Margaret Cameron in college, I have had an interest in Tin Type (or wet plate or collodion - pick your word here) photography. It's emotive, complicated, weird, and just really cool. So, I made it one of my goals this year to learn how to do it, and I figured that teaching myself vs (the albeit arguably smarter move) of taking a workshop would make for a fun video! While there is still a lot of learning ahead of me, the results were pretty awesome, if I do say so myself...especially since the camera is a plastic toy. lol
here's what I used:
Complete Wet Plate Collodion Kit from Bostick and Sullivan: bostick-sullivan.com/product/complete-wet-plate-collodion-set-for-4x5
Holga 120N Camera: amzn.to/3MBH2hy (affiliate)
The Blog that gave me the idea: shootitwithfilm.com/beginners-guide-to-wet-plate-photography
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📪 Abby Cox
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**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
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📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
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🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
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📝 Script Editing (Video Essays) & Research Assistant: Kenna Libes IG: @Kennasews & sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
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📪 Abby Cox
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🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
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📝 Script Editing (Video Essays) & Research Assistant: Kenna Libes IG: @Kennasews & sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Polaire was a world famous Edwardian actress known for many things - for being "The Ugliest Woman in the World", having a nose ring, and also for having "The Smallest Waist in the World". Yep - her waist was recorded as being a whopping 14 inches during performances and under 17 for her normal day to day life. By Victorian and Edwardian social standards, she was a freak, and yet, it's her photos that are shared time and time again on the internet whenever people talk about Victorian and Edwardian corset practices, tight-lacing, and wasp waists. We no longer know who she is, but we still see photos of her all the time.
It's my fascination with her, her history, her shenanigans (cause y'all she was weird and also incredibly problematic), and her waist that made me want to make this video. So I hope you'll enjoy learning a bit about this fascinating French actress with a weird history and a wasp-waist that the Kardashians could only dream of.
Thanks to @NamiSparrow for her feedback and contribution to the Nose Ring & Cultural Appropriation chapter of this video. ❤
Sources:
DURBACH, NADJA. “‘Skinless Wonders’: ‘Body Worlds’ and the Victorian Freak Show.” *Journal of the History of Medicine and Allied Sciences*
69, no. 1 (2014): 38–67. http://www.jstor.org/stable/24631756.
Durbach, Nadja. *Spectacle of Deformity : Freak Shows and Modern British Culture*
. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2009. Accessed April 29, 2023. ProQuest Ebook Central.
Buy it here: [amzn.to/3ADPw0Z](amzn.to/3ADPw0Z) (affiliate)
Stephen Fry’s Victorian Secrets (Chapter 2 is about Freak Shows specifically and features Nadja Durbach) (audible.com/pd/Stephen-Frys-Victorian-Secrets-Audiobook/B07JH5JLD6?action_code=ASSGB149080119000H&share_location=pdp)
Scrapbook. Corset. Compiled by Bennett 1/82 Gift by Berlingen, Kinsey Institute, Indiana University. Visited Feb. 15, 2023
Newspaper Articles via ProQuest Historical Newspapers
The Tatler, The Sketch, The Bystander, and other British Periodicals via ProQuest British Periodicals
Throwback Polaire website including Comic Sans and Papyrus font (10/10 nostalgia) [http://www.polaire-1900.com/](http://www.polaire-1900.com)
Chapters:
00:00 - 06:42 - Polaire's Early Career
06:43 - 10:00 - Polaire's Antics (Funny)
10:01 - 12:18 - Problematic Polaire Pt 1
12:19 - 14:42 - Freak Shows
14:43 - 19:11 - The Ugliest Woman in the World
19:12 - 22:38 - Problematic Polaire Pt. 2
22:39 - 29:30 - The Smallest Waist in the World!
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📪 Abby Cox
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**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
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The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
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📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
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📝 Script Editing (Video Essays) & Research Assistant: Kenna Libes IG: @Kennasews & sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
it's definitely been made up. Here's a quick guide on sources and their rankings, cause not all sources are created equal.
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📪 Abby Cox
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📝 Script Editing (Video Essays) & Research Assistant: Kenna Libes IG: @Kennasews & sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Watch the full video here: youtu.be/UNUfJoMwNj4
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The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
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📪 Abby Cox
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📝 Script Editing (Video Essays) & Research Assistant: Kenna Libes IG: @Kennasews & sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
watch the full video here: youtu.be/dlSTjCuQrMg
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The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
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📪 Abby Cox
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🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
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**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Did this renovation take 5 months or 10 months? Idk? Anyways, I'm glad it's over. 😅 While all of the décor is antiqued and thrifted here is the list of everything else: (though the fireplace screen is from amazon: amzn.to/3mRJhmS (affiliate)
*Paint*
Backdrop Supermoon: backdrophome.com/products/supermoon-interior-standard
Backdrop The Early Stuff: backdrophome.com/products/the-early-stuff-interior-standard
*Wallpaper*
Rifle Paper Company "Luxemburg" Peel & Stick (White): riflepaperco.com/luxembourg-white-multi-peel-and-stick-wallpaper
Rifle Paper Co. "Bramble" Traditional Wallpaper (Black): riflepaperco.com/bramble-black-wallpaper-roll
*Lights* (affiliate links below)
Aputure Amaran 200x: amzn.to/3KKHtnH
Aputure Amaran 100x: amzn.to/3mRfACt
Aputure Amaran p60c (not 90 - ha): amzn.to/3KOw1aB
Aputure MT Pro: amzn.to/3KPI4EP
Aputure Light Dome II: amzn.to/40k0mDT
Neewer Wall Mounting Triangle Boom Arm: amzn.to/43KP8uO
Impact Super Clamp with Ratchet Handle (how I mount the lights to the pipes): amzn.to/41GwnHp
*Acoustics*
Fstop Labs Acoustic Foam Panels: amzn.to/43IXGSX
Tonnen 2 pack white acoustic panels: amzn.to/3GRPfuZ
Here's the link to @lilafromyoutube's video about lighting: youtube.com/watch?v=lpEeYwrkBPU&t=214s
I also really love @aputurelighting for lighting tip videos - this video is good: youtube.com/watch?v=Z0JgO8RaLOY
@stalman just came out with a great video about must have studio gear - and I really like how he lights his spaces too: youtube.com/watch?v=koIh1Vs9ZzM
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📪 Abby Cox
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🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
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The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
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📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
📽 Video Editing: Nathalie Alvarez IG: @Nathsdesk & nathsdesk.com
📝 Script Editing (Video Essays) & Research Assistant: Kenna Libes IG: @Kennasews & sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
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The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Beauty: amzn.to/2TTwJtq
💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
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📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
📽 Video Editing: Nathalie Alvarez IG: @Nathsdesk & nathsdesk.com
📝 Script Editing (Video Essays) & Research Assistant: Kenna Libes IG: @Kennasews & sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤
Here are the other videos I referenced:
The (Surprisingly) Aristocratic History of Unnatural Hair Dye: youtu.be/CKiWqdvtG-4
I made 250-year-old Hair Products Using Original Recipes: youtu.be/G0XKXBEleVY
And if you somehow...have watched this video but haven't seen the original video I am referencing...here ya go: youtu.be/FnBniAE2wiE
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💌Business Inquiries *ONLY* abbycox@viralnationtalent.com
(This email goes directly to my management and not to me.)
📪 Abby Cox
642 N. Madison Street
Bloomington, IN 47404
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
📽 Video Editing: Nathalie Alvarez IG: @Nathsdesk & nathsdesk.com
📝 Script Editing (Video Essays) & Research Assistant: Kenna Libes IG: @Kennasews & sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com
**I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. By purchasing items through the links listed above, I could earn a small commission for your purchase. Thank you.❤