Uploaded August 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Good historical costuming is historically accurate, right? And that means perfect . . . right?! Tiny perfect hand sewing stitches, neatly finished seams, and no visible machine sewing ever. Except that's not what fashion history says, that's modern perfectionism! Whether or not you like your historical dress accurate or not, we gotta understand what's a real part of historical sewing, what's important for modern costume makers . . . and what's just perfectionism and superiority talking.
There's more to making a historically accurate dress than perfectionism! If perfect hand stitching makes you happy, then go for it! It can be really satisfying to look at pretty, perfect seams. But know that the vast majority of historical dressmakers didn't have that kind of time, whether they were housewives making clothes at home, or high-class haute couture designers like the House of Worth. Historical sewing techniques only valued pretty stitching when it had a purpose, which means professional historical dress makers had a keen sense of when historical sewing techniques like perfect hand sewing mattered, and when they didn't. Historical fashion is full of dresses made by machine, dresses with messy raw edges, dresses with visible machine stitching, and more. There's a reason the sewing machine was widely adopted by the Victorians as soon as it was affordable : because it made sewing so much faster that dressmakers and homemakers could spend that time on more important things, whether it was more ornate clothes or getting housework done.
What matters today isn't just your historically accurate costume and tiny perfect stitches, it's whether you're happy with it. Maybe your thing is fantasy costume design and historical accuracy doesn't matter! Maybe you need disability adaptations for your DIY costume that don't work with perfectionism! Historical fashion was made and worn by all sorts of people, and they all had more on their mind than counting stitches. Yes, it's good to know how to fix a messy seam . . . but it's not good for anyone to feel bad about the things they make, whether they know how to sew a dress by hand or always use a machine. Let's not let perfectionism ruin our fun sewing vintage clothing or going to a reenactment. Perfectionism isn't historically accurate, and even if it was, nobody likes a gatekeeper!
Join my Patreon for behind-the-scenes updates, pattern diagrams, research lists, monthly video chats, and more! patreon.com/snappydragonstudios
Or, you can buy me some Ko-Fi : ko-fi.com/snappydragon
Follow me on IG for more stitchy business : @missSnappyDragon
For business inquiries, send an e-mail to : SnappyDragon at TBHonestSocial dot Com
I do not take personal costume/sewing or research commissions.
Want to send me letters? Send mail to PO Box 11573, Oakland CA, 94611! Letters and cards only please 💚
Good historical costuming is historically accurate, right? And that means perfect . . . right?! Tiny perfect hand sewing stitches, neatly finished seams, and no visible machine sewing ever. Except that's not what fashion history says, that's modern perfectionism! Whether or not you like your historical dress accurate or not, we gotta understand what's a real part of historical sewing, what's important for modern costume makers . . . and what's just perfectionism and superiority talking.
There's more to making a historically accurate dress than perfectionism! If perfect hand stitching makes you happy, then go for it! It can be really satisfying to look at pretty, perfect seams. But know that the vast majority of historical dressmakers didn't have that kind of time, whether they were housewives making clothes at home, or high-class haute couture designers like the House of Worth. Historical sewing techniques only valued pretty stitching when it had a purpose, which means professional historical dress makers had a keen sense of when historical sewing techniques like perfect hand sewing mattered, and when they didn't. Historical fashion is full of dresses made by machine, dresses with messy raw edges, dresses with visible machine stitching, and more. There's a reason the sewing machine was widely adopted by the Victorians as soon as it was affordable : because it made sewing so much faster that dressmakers and homemakers could spend that time on more important things, whether it was more ornate clothes or getting housework done.
What matters today isn't just your historically accurate costume and tiny perfect stitches, it's whether you're happy with it. Maybe your thing is fantasy costume design and historical accuracy doesn't matter! Maybe you need disability adaptations for your DIY costume that don't work with perfectionism! Historical fashion was made and worn by all sorts of people, and they all had more on their mind than counting stitches. Yes, it's good to know how to fix a messy seam . . . but it's not good for anyone to feel bad about the things they make, whether they know how to sew a dress by hand or always use a machine. Let's not let perfectionism ruin our fun sewing vintage clothing or going to a reenactment. Perfectionism isn't historically accurate, and even if it was, nobody likes a gatekeeper!
Join my Patreon for behind-the-scenes updates, pattern diagrams, research lists, monthly video chats, and more! patreon.com/snappydragonstudios
Or, you can buy me some Ko-Fi : ko-fi.com/snappydragon
Follow me on IG for more stitchy business : @missSnappyDragon
For business inquiries, send an e-mail to : SnappyDragon at TBHonestSocial dot Com
I do not take personal costume/sewing or research commissions.
Want to send me letters? Send mail to PO Box 11573, Oakland CA, 94611! Letters and cards only please 💚

![Historical Costume vs Catcalling : Feminist fashion trends men hated
Fashion Trends Men Hate isnt a new thing. Nor is street harassment or catcalling. Hoopskirts, hat pins, and more of these feminist historical fashion trends helped fight unwanted advances and catcalls by maintaining personal space, keeping men at a distance, symbolizing womens power, and even LITERALLY STABBING men who grabbed women on the street. Lets chat about the fashion history and gender politics behind Elizabethan puffy sleeves, 18th century hoopskirts, Victorian crinolines and bustles, huge Regency bonnets and Edwardian hats, and the Hatpin Peril that led to bans all over the world! But most importantly, in the era of #MeToo and Times Up, what this dive into the feminism of historical dress will show us that sexual harassment has NEVER been about what the victim was wearing.
Men have been writing about womens fashion for centuries, and youd be surprised how many 18th century and Victorian magazines have articles that read like a modern list of fashion trends men hate. This goes back to the early 18th century with the resurgence of hoopskirts, and continued into the 20th century with the Hatpin Peril— a supposed epidemic of mashers (Edwardian slang for creeps) stabbed with hatpins for bothering women out in public. Inspired by a quote in The Cut Of Womens Clothes by Nora Waugh, and a tumblr post about how no one actually thought bustles were fake butts, I combed through dozens of ancient magazines and newspapers to figure out why men of the past couldnt handle Women Wearing Clothes. Dress history tells us a fascinating story about how historical dresses prevented men grabbing arms, kept unwanted male advances at a distance, and in a pinch defended against violence. They also empowered women! From Queen Elizabeth I dazzling her courtiers in huge dresses, to 18th century women flirting on purpose with their hoopskirts, Victorian working-class women breaking down class barriers with fashionable clothes, and Edwardian women going places on their own, safe in the knowledge they carried concealed weapons, fashion and feminism have always worked together in some ways.
#MashersBeware #HatpinPeril
Join my Patreon for behind-the-scenes updates, pattern diagrams, research lists, monthly video chats, and more! https://www.patreon.com/snappydragonstudios
Or, you can buy me some Ko-Fi : https://ko-fi.com/snappydragon
Follow me on IG for more stitchy business : @missSnappyDragon
For business inquiries, send an e-mail to : SnappyDragonStitches at Gmail dot Com
I do not take personal costume/sewing or research commissions.
Want to send me letters? Send mail to PO Box 3884, Berkeley CA, 94703! Letters and cards only please 💚
0:00 Why not to catcall historical costumers
0:28 What fashion has to do with harassment
2:01 Gendered terms
2:55 Giant Elizabethan sleeves
4:56 18th century hoopskirts
8:02 Satirical Regency bonnets
10:05 : Victorian bustles and crinolines
12:40 The Hatpin Peril
15:47 The Point
Works Sighted (a highly informal bibliography)
Gilded Age Garbage Fires post that started it all : https://marzipanandminutiae.tumblr.com/post/175188840617/its-hilarious-to-me-when-people-call-historical
The Cut of Womens Clothes by Nora Waugh
Internet Archive copy of Fynes Morysons Itinerary : https://archive.org/stream/fynesmorysons04moryuoft/fynesmorysons04moryuoft_djvu.txt
the Cecil Papers, including Jones Bill for the Q[ueens] Gown. : https://www.british-history.ac.uk/cal-cecil-papers/vol14/pp31-49
Kimberly Chrismans paper Unhoop the Fair Sex: The Campaign Against the Hoop Petticoat in Eighteenth-Century England. : https://www.jstor.org/stable/30053852?seq=1
Project Gutenberg copy of The Tatler containing the Trial Of The Hooped Petticoat : https://www.gutenberg.org/files/31645/31645-h/31645-h.htm
Project Gutenberg copy of The Spectator, no. 127 contains a letter about hooped petticoats : https://www.gutenberg.org/files/12030/12030-h/SV1/Spectator1.html
Hathi Trust copy of the London Magazine from January 1741, containing one Mr. Stonecastles letter on page 84 : https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015021277838&view=1up&seq=84&q1=petticoat
Crinoline for domestic use cartoon from the Hathi Trust Digital Library and the University of Michigan : https://victorianweb.org/periodicals/punch/clothing/12.html
Archive.org copy of Routledges Manual of Etiquette : https://archive.org/stream/routledgesmanual12426gut/12426.txt
The New York Evening World article about Leoti Blaker : https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030193/1903-05-27/ed-1/seq-3/
The San Francisco Call article about a hatpin and a train robbery : https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1898-01-11/ed-1/seq-6/
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