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The Business of Fashion | The Debrief: Is This the Beginning of the End for Leather? | The Business of Fashion @businessoffashion | Uploaded June 2022 | Updated October 2024, 8 hours ago.
Brands including Stella McCartney, Balenciaga and Hermès are making products from mushroom-based material. BoF’s chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent details the forces pushing next-gen fabrics like mycelium leather forward — and whether the much-hyped sustainability solution has a future in fashion.

Background:
After years of experimentation and development, handbags, shoes and coats made of mycelium leather — created from the roots of mushrooms — are hitting the shelves from names like Stella McCartney, Balenciaga and Hermès. It’s a test of whether mycelium leather will make it in the mainstream. Made by start-ups like Bolt Threads and MycoWorks, mycelium is promising for fashion as brands seek out non-plastic, non-animal-based, less-energy-intensive leather alternatives and consumers demand more environmentally friendly products. But taking an idea from the lab to the store floor involves a lot of trial and error.

“Innovation takes time. I think the fashion world isn’t used to having to wait. We’re all about instant gratification,” said BoF’s chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent.

Key Insights:

- “Mushroom leather” is actually a misnomer. The fabric is made from mycelium, which is the web structure that forms the roots of mushrooms underground.
- Though the space is gaining momentum as brands bring products to market and start-ups attract investment, most items are still limited-edition or very expensive. To gain mainstream traction, companies need to scale up and prices need to go down. Much depends on how brands’ first experiments perform.
- A large swath of companies, including LVMH and Kering, see value in testing mycelium as consumers become more interested in looking after their social and environmental impacts at the same time innovations mature.
- If all goes well, the market for alternative materials could be worth $2.2 billion by 2026.


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ABOUT THE BUSINESS OF FASHION: The Business of Fashion is a next-generation fashion media company conceived for today’s global and hyper-connected world. Founded in 2007 by Imran Amed, BoF is known for its authoritative, agenda-setting point of view on the global fashion industry, and is an indispensable resource for fashion executives, creatives, students, and entrepreneurs in over 200 countries. It has been described as “The Economist of Fashion,” “A Daily Destination for Fashion’s Power Players”, and “The Industry Bible”, businessoffashion.com
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The Debrief: Is This the Beginning of the End for Leather? | The Business of Fashion @businessoffashion

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