Uploaded March 2025 | Updated September 2026, 17 hours ago
Sydney City street lighting is obscured by trees. The city is always slow to cut them back.
Had to stop to allow other traffick to pass because I was caused too many erratic vehicle signals , the street turning corners were too dark to find at speeds other traffick likes, and too dangerous to worry vehicles behind from the signalling mishap, so made a temporary emergency stop to allow them past to remove any worries they could have.
Cannot use high beam because vehicles could appear within the 200 meter allowance distance at any moment.
Sydney City street lighting is obscured by trees. The city is always slow to cut them back.
Had to stop to allow other traffick to pass because I was caused too many erratic vehicle signals , the street turning corners were too dark to find at speeds other traffick likes, and too dangerous to worry vehicles behind from the signalling mishap, so made a temporary emergency stop to allow them past to remove any worries they could have.
Cannot use high beam because vehicles could appear within the 200 meter allowance distance at any moment.
![(DIY) [Australia] 400w rated Wind Turbine (600w max.) 1st operation test](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/jheIDtap2yg/mqdefault.jpg "(DIY) [Australia] 400w rated Wind Turbine (600w max.) 1st operation test
[view in full screen in 720p HD if able or 480p resolution]
[Correction of various video details the 300w is a Sun-Share 3 phase 12v 6-blade]
[This shown in video is R and X Technology SF-600-5 3 phase 12v 5-blade]
[Controller (programmable LCD) is a EPWSC06A (200w - 600w Wind) (and 12v 150w Solar) Jiangsu Ecopower Solution Co.,Ltd]
all from aliexpress.
[This controller in this video is a LED non-programmable (200w - 600w Wind) (12v 150w Solar) bought on ebay]
This is the first run of the 5 blade, 12 volt, 400w rated at 12 m/s, 600w Maximum wind turbine. Its a little slower to start than the 12v 300w rated 320w-max. 6 blade Hyacinth but the hub and blades on this 400w are 3 times as heavy and maybe around 10 square inches less blade area than the Hyacinth.
Actually its only 5 meters up and using 6mm2 30 ft of wire. 6mm2 copper strand is only good for around 20 meters , 8mm2 up to 30 meters and beyond to 50 meters 10mm2. You would also require to have the turbine up 12 meters into the unobstructed higher layer of air because it moves faster and not much charge is produced by these small turbines, so, unless it is done properly dont bother, it requires expensive high grade high current low resistance wire or too much charge is lost from such small turbines below 1Kw rated output!
In measuring against the graph of output they showed, at 4 m/s it only outputs 75 watts. ( 75/13.7 = 5.5 amps ) In consideration of how bad the setup is(vibrating pole with no guy cables that cause tip stalling and flicking around to opposite direction or wandering of wind direction) and how little wind down at 5 meters high pole (i couldnt feel much although it always shows blowing a gale at the top of trees) the 3 amps max it showed seems about right and too for how the alternator builds up with the MPPT with more constant wind speed occurring.
More than this, for compatibility with using an extra solar controller on the battery bank, the float voltage for solar or most controllers is usually always 13.7 volts for 12 volt systems. This means having to use a programmable wind controller to be sure no excessive argument against the electricals occurs from either controller. For most of the time i was using 13.7v as float but the other wind controller with MPPT appears to have something like 14.5v float causing the battery over-voltage quickly because they are lead acid and so touchy in chemistry when charging. When using 14.5v as float the charger would often commit brake function because of battery overcharge condition, this is because i am using lead acid batteries. The original controller had no programmable system so because it goes into break i figure its float charge is something like 14.5 volts like a real deep cycle charger. Second , it is rare that in the shade on a 40 degrees Celsius day that the batteries would reach more than 70 percent allowed capacity. Lead acid are very touchy about charge level, charge intake and temperature. Normal life often does not get beyond 20 deg. Celsius protection covered properly so winter requires enclosing them a little and they only get to around 60 percent allowed capacity. Lead acid(note: always use sealed type , NEVER use open air vented because explosion risk is too much) are cheap, other better types are silicate lead acid and GEL or AGM lead batteries but more expensive(all sealed).
Lithiums are generally too expensive at any point.
note: The two turbines pole shank takes a pole outer diameter of 50mm to 55mm. a reasonable guy cabling pole would have a wall thickness of the pipe of 5mm. Steel is often sold in 6m to 8m lengths(depends what the local steel merchant bulk orders).
You can get hoisting cables 3mm and 4mm strand of various lengths out of ebay. a simple sensible 12m guy tower needs 6 cables. 3x fastened at 10 meters on the tower and the other 3x fastened at 5 meters on the tower pipe to prevent high wind pole wobble. That is as much to prevent the tip of the pole vibrating or wobbling as to keeping it absolute upright against gravity(wind turbines are not completely/perfectly balanced centrally related to their mounted pivot point).
NOTE: MEDIUM GALVENIZED 40NB pipe is usually in 6.5 meter lengths and 48mm outer diameter and 4.0mm wall. Two pieces are around 100 AUD from a local steel merchant, but how you move them and weld them is a localised problem i cannot cover here.
Other solar information -
http://www.windsolarhybridaustralia.x10.mx")
