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The Last Stitch | Sewing Buttonholes | A step-by-step tutorial on how to sew better buttonholes @Thelaststitch | Uploaded July 2017 | Updated October 2024, 3 hours ago.
Sewing buttonholes doesn't have to be hard. If you follow this a step-by-step sewing tutorial guide you'll get great looking buttonholes.

How to sew buttonholes on knits
thelaststitch.com/2010/01/buttonholes-on-knits

How to use a buttonhole cutter
youtu.be/1HC3a0RMwgA

Clover buttonhole cutter (amazon affiliate link)
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How to sew many buttonholes quickly
thelaststitch.com/2009/04/making-many-buttonholes-quickly


If you are doing buttonholes on a shirt I recommend using a light weight good quality fusible interfacing.

And if the garment you are making is sheer or you just want a more high end finishing use an organza fabric instead, these are available in silk and cotton.

Many light weight fusibles has stretch in one direction. I'ts important that you use the stable direction for the direktion buttonholes so that they won't stretch out.

I always interface the seam allowance on the placket as this will make it easier to press and fold and topstitch

I also let the interfacing run over the fold slightly, as this will create a flawless crisp edge

Fold, press and top stitch the placket

Ignore whatever placing is specified on the pattern, this will not work for your unique body. What you'll need are buttons where your body sticks out the most. In my case it's the high point of my chest and tummy.

So I mark these places first. Then calculate the distances between each button, taking into account how many buttons you want to use and where you want the lowest button to be placed.

You'll also need a button at the collar, but don't obsess over getting that one exactly distanced in relation to the other buttons. Also, don't obsess about getting every millimetre right, no one will notice, not even you!

Plus never place a buttonhole on top of a seam, avoid the hem and other seams, as this will not yield a good result with most sewing machines.

Horizontal buttonholes are the most secure, but vertical buttonholes are more suited for shirts as those plackets often tends to be quite narrow.

When setting up the machine, follow the instructions for your sewing machine. For shirting regular sewing thread will work fine, but for a more high end finishing or if your are sewing on a sturdier fabric, you can use special, slightly thicker buttonhole thread, but use it only in the upper spool and not in the bobbin!

The next few steps assumes you have an automatic buttonhole function, which most modern sewing machines does

Using an interfaced fabric scrap of your garment fabric and mark the buttonhole with a sharpie. Add around 3 mm extra for the buttonholes, but depending on how thick or thin the button is you might have add more or less distance. If your machine has a slot in the presser foot for the button this process will be even easier.

Sew the buttonhole sample and test it out.

Once you settled on the proper sizing the sewing machine will sew every buttonhole exactly the same size if you are using the automatic buttonhole function

Now mark the start of each buttonhole with a awl or another sharp object. This is where the needle will hit on the first stitch. So simple right?

Start sewing all your buttonholes. When using the automatic function, resist the temptation to pull or feed the fabric as this will mess up the buttonhole. All you need is to gently make sure the stitch is straight, never pull or tug!

Now it's the time to open the buttonholes. If you are using a seamripper make sure it is sharp and only open it to the middle, then you switch direction. You can place a needle at the ends to make sure you don't cut through the buttonhole.

You'll get even better result with a buttonhole cutter. Just press to cut open or use a hammer if the fabric is thick. You'll find links to tutorials on how to use the buttonhole cutter in the description section.

So here we go, the finished buttonholes! It wasn't to painful was it? Just do the proper prep work and don't rush it and you'll get a good result
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Sewing Buttonholes | A step-by-step tutorial on how to sew better buttonholes @Thelaststitch

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