Uploaded March 2026 | Updated September 2026, 2 hours ago
Fixing Rusted Cowl Damage on a 1970–71 Torino? In this video we cut the entire cowl tank out of our 1970 Torino GT project car “The Lizard” and show you the tools and techniques to get it done without destroying the surrounding metal.
If you’ve ever dealt with the dreaded Ford cowl leak, you know how big of a job this can be. In this episode we’re finally cutting the cowl tank out of The Lizard and showing the exact process we used to separate the factory spot welds and remove the panel cleanly.
In this episode we cover:
• Locating factory spot welds on the Torino cowl
• Using three different spot-weld cutters and why each matters
• Drilling techniques that prevent panel damage
• Using a Dremel and sanding discs for tight areas
• Separating the cowl tank from the firewall and upper cowl
• Tips to keep the surrounding sheetmetal intact
• Preparing the area for the replacement cowl repair
The cowl has been one of the biggest rust battles on this car, but once this piece comes out we’re finally getting close to putting The Lizard back together. We’re almost home.
If you’re restoring a 1968–1971 Ford Torino, Fairlane, or Cyclone, this step-by-step process will help you tackle one of the most intimidating rust repairs on these cars.
It’s not glamorous work—but it’s the kind of job that makes the difference between a car that leaks forever and one that’s fixed the right way.
It’s not a Problem, It’s a Project!
Video:
Falcon Floor Install Set up Use RV Stabilizer Jacks to Support the Chassis
youtu.be/K0Om6vf_Zio
Episode 83 Manic Mechanic
Episode 324 Manic Mechanic
Sponsors: autokrafters.com
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
patreon.com/gasolinemedia
#FordTorino #TorinoGT #ClassicCarRestoration #FordCowlRepair #manicmechanic
Fixing Rusted Cowl Damage on a 1970–71 Torino? In this video we cut the entire cowl tank out of our 1970 Torino GT project car “The Lizard” and show you the tools and techniques to get it done without destroying the surrounding metal.
If you’ve ever dealt with the dreaded Ford cowl leak, you know how big of a job this can be. In this episode we’re finally cutting the cowl tank out of The Lizard and showing the exact process we used to separate the factory spot welds and remove the panel cleanly.
In this episode we cover:
• Locating factory spot welds on the Torino cowl
• Using three different spot-weld cutters and why each matters
• Drilling techniques that prevent panel damage
• Using a Dremel and sanding discs for tight areas
• Separating the cowl tank from the firewall and upper cowl
• Tips to keep the surrounding sheetmetal intact
• Preparing the area for the replacement cowl repair
The cowl has been one of the biggest rust battles on this car, but once this piece comes out we’re finally getting close to putting The Lizard back together. We’re almost home.
If you’re restoring a 1968–1971 Ford Torino, Fairlane, or Cyclone, this step-by-step process will help you tackle one of the most intimidating rust repairs on these cars.
It’s not glamorous work—but it’s the kind of job that makes the difference between a car that leaks forever and one that’s fixed the right way.
It’s not a Problem, It’s a Project!
Video:
Falcon Floor Install Set up Use RV Stabilizer Jacks to Support the Chassis
youtu.be/K0Om6vf_Zio
Episode 83 Manic Mechanic
Episode 324 Manic Mechanic
Sponsors: autokrafters.com
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
patreon.com/gasolinemedia
#FordTorino #TorinoGT #ClassicCarRestoration #FordCowlRepair #manicmechanic





![Do This BEFORE You Pay for a Front-End Alignment on Your Classic Ford
Jeff Ford is back on Kylies 1967 Mustang hardtop, and this time hes chasing a problem thats been driving him nuts — every time he tries to push this car into the shop, it wanders like a wild weasel. Thats camber and toe screaming for help. The good news: you can get a classic Fords front end close to right in your own driveway with nothing fancier than a tape measure, a magnetic level, and a little patience — close enough, in a lot of cases, to safely roll it onto the rack at your local alignment shop.
In this one Jeff walks through the DIY basics of a front-end alignment at home, in the order that actually matters: camber, caster, toe. He shows you how to confirm your lower control arms and strut rods are sitting where they should before you measure a thing, how to use 3/8 alignment shims on 67-and-up cars to pull more caster, and how to set camber with a cheap magnetic angle gauge right off the rotor face. Then comes the redneck-genius stuff that actually works — a split contractor bag and a little grease for homemade turn plates, and a length of aluminum angle to check your toe against the tires. Hes hunting about 1/8 of toe-in and a half-degree of negative camber for radials, and hes honest about why a car with no sheet metal up front wont quite hit the numbers until its back at ride height.
Along the way Jeff diagnoses a steering box thats flat wore out — crunchy, loose, and overdue for a Borgeson box and a manual-steer drag link from National Parts Depot — and shows you the right way to set up new tie-rod sleeves so your inner and outer ends start together and adjust true.
If you own a classic Mustang, a vintage Ford, or any muscle car headed for the alignment rack, this is the real-world, do-it-at-home lesson thatll save you a wasted trip and a wasted dollar. Its not the be-all, end-all — its the fit and fiddle that classic car life is really made of.
☕ Want to support the show? Grab a t-shirt or jump on Patreon at the $10/month level for monthly Zoom hangouts and Trivia Night, where we give away custom shirts featuring YOUR car. Every shirt and pledge goes straight to Joseph and the editor who make these videos happen — not to Jeff.
T-shirts help pay Joseph, our teenage production assistant whos putting every dollar into his XJ Jeep. Grab one and youre funding a kids first build.
Patreon at the $10 level gets you monthly Zoom meetings with Jeff plus Trivia Night, where the prize is a one-off t-shirt with YOUR car on it.
Its not a problem, its a project.
—
▶ Autorestomod is proudly sponsored by National Parts Depot — [https://www.npdlink.com]
SUPPORT THE SHOW
▶ Patreon — $10/month gets you monthly Zoom meetings with me: [https://www.patreon.com/c/gasolinemedia]
▶ Merch — Needs More Classic Cars shirts, hats & mugs at Fourth Wall: [https://autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com/]
Autorestomod Episode: 753
https://autorestomod-shop.fourthwall.com/
Sponsors:
https://www.nationalpartsdepot.com
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com
Contact: Jford@autorestomod.com
Insta: @autorestomod
www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia. Do This BEFORE You Pay for a Front-End Alignment on Your Classic Ford](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/SNN_YsWkc6U/mqdefault.jpg)




