Uploaded June 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
Still using 2.4g control for the 5.8g analog. I think about as good as I can get on 5.8g analog using the cheapest amazon receivers (not expensive goggles) is using a good vtx like AKK Race Ranger or RushFPV stuff and going about 200ft LOS before video starts getting dirty. The beauty of a variable power vtx is that you can test everything out at like 25mW where every change you make is more noticeable. You should be able to drive around your house no problem on 25mW-100mW.
It seems much better range can be had if someone invests in good goggles and modules, but then you're paying the cost of digital stuff and it doesn't make sense. I have bad video in my front cam here cause of a bad relay contact but after replacing it's crystal clear now close range at full throttle. I think moving my 5.8g car over to crossfire also will get rid of the noise I see using 2.4g control. Cheap 5.8g receivers also need some kind of band pass filter to avoid such jamming. Eventually you may get to a point in all this extra stuff where you should have just bought digital anyway. That aside if you already have good analog goggles and modules (that probably cost hundreds of dollars), it should be easy to get hundreds of meters of LOS clarity just tossing a camera and good vtx fixed on a car. I paid less for my DJI goggles than what it would cost me to buy fat shark analog goggles.
My 1.3g analog car and the DJI car are both on crossfire control now using a crossfire lite module on my radiolink controller and a couple nano receivers on the cars. Thanks to @ChaddRainsFPV and some others for helping me figure it out, but in the end the basic setup is super easy for a Radiolink controller. You just plug the 'RC' connector into the crossfire module, then the other end into the DSC port of the Radiolink. Then bind the crossfire to it's receiver by going into the bind mode in the settings (with radiolink controller OFF), then make sure to go into the crossfire receiver settings once it's bound to set channels 1 and 2 from default crossfire signals back to normal PPM signals you'll be using with the Radiolink. Then it's safe to cut the controller on without the car flying off into the wall. The latency is perfectly fine to me using PPM and it seems pretty instant to me. I was never going to exceed the range of my 2.4g control booster but using 900mhz at lower power is a much better alternative.
At this point it seems like really getting over 300 meters of DJI range involves picking out particular locations that allow line of sight for it. There are a lot of considerations trying to improve the range, none of which I have any real ideas on. The longest antennas possible using IPEX connectors, one RHCP and one LHCP I suppose, and finding just the right ones could possibly get me more range.. but I'm guessing it wouldn't be all that substantial, like maybe another 50 meters tops.
Still using 2.4g control for the 5.8g analog. I think about as good as I can get on 5.8g analog using the cheapest amazon receivers (not expensive goggles) is using a good vtx like AKK Race Ranger or RushFPV stuff and going about 200ft LOS before video starts getting dirty. The beauty of a variable power vtx is that you can test everything out at like 25mW where every change you make is more noticeable. You should be able to drive around your house no problem on 25mW-100mW.
It seems much better range can be had if someone invests in good goggles and modules, but then you're paying the cost of digital stuff and it doesn't make sense. I have bad video in my front cam here cause of a bad relay contact but after replacing it's crystal clear now close range at full throttle. I think moving my 5.8g car over to crossfire also will get rid of the noise I see using 2.4g control. Cheap 5.8g receivers also need some kind of band pass filter to avoid such jamming. Eventually you may get to a point in all this extra stuff where you should have just bought digital anyway. That aside if you already have good analog goggles and modules (that probably cost hundreds of dollars), it should be easy to get hundreds of meters of LOS clarity just tossing a camera and good vtx fixed on a car. I paid less for my DJI goggles than what it would cost me to buy fat shark analog goggles.
My 1.3g analog car and the DJI car are both on crossfire control now using a crossfire lite module on my radiolink controller and a couple nano receivers on the cars. Thanks to @ChaddRainsFPV and some others for helping me figure it out, but in the end the basic setup is super easy for a Radiolink controller. You just plug the 'RC' connector into the crossfire module, then the other end into the DSC port of the Radiolink. Then bind the crossfire to it's receiver by going into the bind mode in the settings (with radiolink controller OFF), then make sure to go into the crossfire receiver settings once it's bound to set channels 1 and 2 from default crossfire signals back to normal PPM signals you'll be using with the Radiolink. Then it's safe to cut the controller on without the car flying off into the wall. The latency is perfectly fine to me using PPM and it seems pretty instant to me. I was never going to exceed the range of my 2.4g control booster but using 900mhz at lower power is a much better alternative.
At this point it seems like really getting over 300 meters of DJI range involves picking out particular locations that allow line of sight for it. There are a lot of considerations trying to improve the range, none of which I have any real ideas on. The longest antennas possible using IPEX connectors, one RHCP and one LHCP I suppose, and finding just the right ones could possibly get me more range.. but I'm guessing it wouldn't be all that substantial, like maybe another 50 meters tops.
