InterlinkKnightThis is a model of a jet engine (scale 1:24) that I made with an electric motor that moves, besides the fan, a set of gears and a flywheel that spin in 16:1 ratio, which I took from a flywheel-driven toy car.
The cool thing is that because of the flywheel, it makes the model react and sound similar to a real full-size jet engine.
Of course I know there are a lot of real homemade jet engines out there that are cooler that my humble model, but keep in mind that I made this just for fun, with only junk that was hanging around, and I spend just a few months (on and off) to made this. Besides there are a few advantages of having an electric model instead of a real jet engine model, like: is cheaper, is safer, is not too loud, etc.
I wasn't thinking in replicate any real jet engine in particular but as you can see is a model of a high-bypass turbofan for airliners, comparable to the CFM56 that is used on the Boeing 737.
At maximum speed the fan goes at 3600 RPM, and the fly wheel goes 16 times faster (57600 RPM).
Since I was a kid a plan to make this jet engine but I never accomplished, so the main purpose of this project was to fulfill that old wish, although it was also for fun.
I use: - DC motor of 12V that I extracted from an old hairdryer. - AC/DC adapter with output of 13.5V and 1000 mA. - AC 120V rheostat (dimmer) to use it as a throttle. - A gearbox with a flywheel which I took from a flywheel-driven toy car. It also has a little piece of plastic striking the gear of the flywheel to make the high-pitched whistling sound. - The blades of the fan are made of metal that I extracted from a bunch of 3½-inch HD floppy disks (the part that covers the exposed disk). I cut and mold every blade (20 of them) by hand. - For the N1 gauge I used an ammeter from an old record player, an electromagnet, 4 magnets and 4 diodes connected in a bridge configuration to convert the AC generated to DC. - I made the exterior with body filler, the same used for cars, and a lot of sanding and paint.
I recorded the first part video over a year ago. Ever since, I created the housing and did a few improvements.
Homemade Electric Jet Engine Working Model (1:24 scale) Part 1InterlinkKnight2015-03-03 | This is a model of a jet engine (scale 1:24) that I made with an electric motor that moves, besides the fan, a set of gears and a flywheel that spin in 16:1 ratio, which I took from a flywheel-driven toy car.
The cool thing is that because of the flywheel, it makes the model react and sound similar to a real full-size jet engine.
Of course I know there are a lot of real homemade jet engines out there that are cooler that my humble model, but keep in mind that I made this just for fun, with only junk that was hanging around, and I spend just a few months (on and off) to made this. Besides there are a few advantages of having an electric model instead of a real jet engine model, like: is cheaper, is safer, is not too loud, etc.
I wasn't thinking in replicate any real jet engine in particular but as you can see is a model of a high-bypass turbofan for airliners, comparable to the CFM56 that is used on the Boeing 737.
At maximum speed the fan goes at 3600 RPM, and the fly wheel goes 16 times faster (57600 RPM).
Since I was a kid a plan to make this jet engine but I never accomplished, so the main purpose of this project was to fulfill that old wish, although it was also for fun.
I use: - DC motor of 12V that I extracted from an old hairdryer. - AC/DC adapter with output of 13.5V and 1000 mA. - AC 120V rheostat (dimmer) to use it as a throttle. - A gearbox with a flywheel which I took from a flywheel-driven toy car. It also has a little piece of plastic striking the gear of the flywheel to make the high-pitched whistling sound. - The blades of the fan are made of metal that I extracted from a bunch of 3½-inch HD floppy disks (the part that covers the exposed disk). I cut and mold every blade (20 of them) by hand. - For the N1 gauge I used an ammeter from an old record player, an electromagnet, 4 magnets and 4 diodes connected in a bridge configuration to convert the AC generated to DC. - I made the exterior with body filler, the same used for cars, and a lot of sanding and paint.
I recorded the first part video over a year ago. Ever since, I created the housing and did a few improvements.
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightUseful Household 3D PrintsInterlinkKnight2022-11-24 | After 3 years of having a 3D printer and using Fusion 360 to make my own models, I thought about sharing the things that I made which I use in my everyday life, and maybe you can consider making your own. Sponsored by PCBWay - Full feature custom PCB prototype service: pcbway.com
Sponsored by PCBWay - Full feature custom PCB prototype service: pcbway.com
I couldn’t find a device that measures audio latency so I decided to create my own. If you want to make one, all the files and instructions are in this instructables article: instructables.com/Audio-Latency-Meter
Here's the video with flashes and sound to test your device: youtu.be/eljOX6fG6uY
How much audio latency can you detect? Here's the challenge video: youtu.be/8y4_cVD4--k
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightHow much audio latency can you detect?InterlinkKnight2021-10-02 | This video will test your ability to detect audio latency, that is the delay between what you see in the display and what you hear from the speaker.
Ready for the challenge?
This idea came as a result of my project making a meter to measure the audio latency, especially on Bluetooth devices which they currently suffer from a considerable amount of delay (over 100 ms).
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightAudio Latency TestInterlinkKnight2021-10-02 | The screen will flash white for a short period of time together with a sound, so you can detect if there's a delay between them in your device.
This can be used with my Audio Latency Meter to measure the delay with a lot of precision: youtu.be/eRSyJysEV_o
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightDIY Portable Soldering StationInterlinkKnight2021-07-03 | Inspired by Adam Savage’s soldering station (by Tested), I show my version made with plywood to finally get a station that has the main tools that I use for soldering.
Parts: - E-Paper Display 7.5 inch 3 colors (black, white and red) 800x480 amzn.to/30LZ8Gn - ESP-WROOM-32E, ESP-WROOM-32D or ESP-WROOM-32 bare module (not a development board) amzn.to/2AJ4uaL or you can use a development board if you plan to use it with a plugged power supply amzn.to/3gi5yTI - UART USB to TTL serial converter ebay.com/itm/362514706922 - Battery Holder AAx4 amzn.to/34tiOi0 - Shadow Box 6x8inch with an inside space of at least 1.1inch/28mm deep amzn.to/3avcKYB - Frame Mat 6x8 for 4x6 pictures. I find that it's cheaper to buy a frame that comes with the mat that trying to buy a mat separately amzn.to/3S3XS9w - Resistors 1K, 10K x2, 300K, 470K amzn.to/2A2gHE6 - Electrolytic Capacitors 100µF 16V x2 - It's important to buy good quality capacitors and that they are small enough to fit the enclosure that you are going to use. This is what I choose: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=Ruby... - Ceramic Capacitor 0.1µF amzn.to/3xfAL0N - Push Buttons 6x6x4.3mm x2 amzn.to/3zi76WD - Voltage Regulator with low dropout voltage and low quiescent current. The best I found is the HT7333-A amzn.to/3538b5K - NPN Transistor S8050 amzn.to/2yk6HYV - PCB 5x7cm - You have two options: either buy a prototype PCB made for ESP32 amzn.to/3cvSsB6 so you have to make all the connections yourself, or order a custom PCB on PCBWay for $5 with my gerber files. - M3 HEX screws of different sizes (12mm, 8mm, 4mm) and nuts amzn.to/3e44FMp - M2x6mm HEX screws amzn.to/3fdb0Ff - Washers 3x7mm x8 amzn.to/3fvwehO - 2.54mm male and female pin header amzn.to/2xYcOlK - Printable Sticker Paper amzn.to/3wbS6HR Recommended tools for this project: - Loctite Liquid Professional Super Glue amzn.to/2N7d1He - Wera 1.5-10mm Hex-Plus Key amzn.to/2N4gXYW - 6-inch Zip Ties amzn.to/2N6QCcQ - Scotch Painter's Tape amzn.to/2AMfeFb
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightDIY YouTube Subscriber Counter (E-Paper Display + ESP32)InterlinkKnight2020-07-03 | There a lot of projects on the internet for displaying the amount of YouTube Subscribers, but I wanted to make my own using an epaper display. Sponsored by PCBWay - Full feature custom PCB prototype service: pcbway.com
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightMy Favorite Tools for Arduino/ElectronicsInterlinkKnight2020-05-15 | I show my modified toolbox with my most used tools for DIY electronics, arduino projects and 3D printing. Sponsored by PCBWay - Full feature custom PCB prototype service: pcbway.com
Materials to build the tool box: - The tool box I choose: amzn.to/2EwV1lW - Plywood to use as separators. I recommend finding any scrap material that you can use for this, but here’s an idea of what you need: amzn.to/2KElD6B - Loctite Heavy Duty Epoxy Quick Set: amzn.to/2W0SWpZ - Loctite Super Glue Gel: amzn.to/2W1xv8l
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/interlinkknightArduino Tutorial: E-Paper DisplayInterlinkKnight2020-04-17 | Do you want to learn how to use an ePaper (E-Ink) display with Arduino, ESP8266 or ESP32? This video is for you. Sponsored by PCBWay - Full feature custom PCB prototype service: pcbway.com
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightArduino Tutorial: Temperature Sensors (Thermometer)InterlinkKnight2019-12-29 | There's so many tutorials about arduino and temperature/humidity sensors on YouTube and still it seems no-one talks about the details to make it look good and professional. This is my attempt to change that. I talk about the ways to smooth the values, correctly align the text, sensor calibration, etc.
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightBest Temperature/Humidity Sensor For Arduino? Accuracy TestInterlinkKnight2019-12-13 | Are you looking for the best temperature and humidity sensor for arduino? If so, this video is for you.
Video sponsored by https://www.pcbgogo.com?code=y offering low cost with high-quality PCB prototype and PCB assembly service.
I tested the most popular sensors available in the search for the best and I also provide example sketches for arduino to serve as a tutorial since I wrote a lot of comments explaining the code.
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightGift Ideas For Makers (DIY Electronics/Arduino)InterlinkKnight2019-11-10 | Looking to buy a good present for an DIY enthusiast? Or maybe trying to find good tools for yourself? Here’s my favorite 10 tools that significantly improved the way I create and repair electronics.
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightArduino Tutorial: Tachometer (RPM Counter)InterlinkKnight2019-05-24 | Making a tachometer with arduino has never been so easy. I am not only going to show how you can make your own, but also will mention the pros and cons of a few types of RPM sensors, mainly the IR proximity sensor and the hall effect sensor.
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightElectronics Tutorial For BeginnersInterlinkKnight2019-01-18 | I go through the most common electronic components explaining what they do and how to use them so you can start creating your own DIY projects, especially with arduino.
Components: - Resistor Kit 38 Values 1% 1(600Pack): amzn.to/2xfelzm - Rigol DS1054Z Digital Oscilloscope: amzn.to/2C5ZwD7 Note: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightNextion+Arduino Tutorial #6 A Project From ScratchInterlinkKnight2018-05-02 | If you want to see the entire process of creating a project for the Nextion display and Arduino, this is the video for you. I start with very simple stuff and end with more advance things.
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightNextion+Arduino Tutorial #5 TroubleshootingInterlinkKnight2018-03-30 | I go through the most common problems when trying to use the nextion display with arduino, and the solutions.
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightMy Top 5 Arduino DisplaysInterlinkKnight2018-02-23 | I show my favorite displays to use with arduino, from simple and small monochrome displays to big color displays with touch screen. Sponsored by JLCPCB - $2 for PCBs & Free Shipping for First Order jlcpcb.com
Over the years I've tried many displays and I always return to only a few of them to use in my arduino projects. It can be confusing to choose the correct display to buy so on this video I talk about the best displays I've tried so far to use with arduino.
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightArduino Tutorial: 2.4 TFT Color Display ILI9341 240x320InterlinkKnight2018-02-15 | On this tutorial I show how to use with arduino the 2.2" or 2.4" 240x320 TFT color display with the ILI9341 driver.
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightBest Quality Breadboard?InterlinkKnight2018-02-01 | Are you having a bad time finding a good quality breadboard? I bought a bunch of brands and models to see which ones are worth buying. I also describe the characteristics you should focus when searching for a good quality breadboard.
Here's my list of recommended brands/models: - Busboard Prototype Systems BB830 amzn.to/2QsyY3C - Jameco Valuepro WBU-202-R amzn.to/2NLz8oe
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Here's my list of breadboards to avoid: - Any cheap no-brand breadboard from China - Adafruit Product ID 239 - Elegoo MB-102 - Miyako USA EIC-102 - Jameco Valuepro BB-102
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightDIY Breadboard Power SupplyInterlinkKnight2018-01-26 | This is a DIY power bank especially made for breadboards, with a 18650 battery, charger module, boost converter and a simple battery indicator with a bi-color LED (red-yellow-green). PCB is sponsored by jlcpcb.com $2 for PCBs & Free Shipping First Order.
Buy optional materials (for LED indicators): - 3mm bi-color LED (red-green) common cathode. Buy here: amzn.to/2QFF8N8 - NE5532P op-amp. Buy here: amzn.to/2C6YOpd - S8050 NPN transistor. Practically any NPN transistor would work, though. Buy here: amzn.to/354wXDl - Resistors (1% of 1/4W): - R1: 6.2K. Buy here: amzn.to/2X0ZbcW - R2: 2.2K, R3: 51K, R4: 2K, R5: 6.8K, R7: 100K, R8: 100, R9: 5.1K, R10: 2K. Buy a resistor kit that includes these values: amzn.to/2A2gHE6 - R6: 2.7K for the positive side of the voltage divider for the op-amp 1IN- that controls when the green LED turns OFF. Buy here: amzn.to/2QJvzgr - 3mm bi-color LED (red-green) common anode for the charger indicator. Buy here: amzn.to/2ye9a3O
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightArduino Tutorial: 1.8 TFT Color Display ST7735 128x160InterlinkKnight2018-01-19 | On this tutorial I explain what you need to do to make the 1.8" 128x160 TFT color display with the ST7735 driver work with arduino.
Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightNextion Display: Basic or Enhanced?InterlinkKnight2017-12-28 | I compare the refresh rate between the basic and enhanced versions to see if the extra speed of the CPU really worth it.
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightArduino Tutorial: OLED 0.96 I2C/SPI DisplayInterlinkKnight2017-12-01 | On this tutorial I show what you need to do to make the 0.96" 128x64 OLED display work with Arduino. This tutorial also works for the 0.91" 128x32 and the 1.3" 128x64 versions.
Website: interlinkknight.wixsite.com/interlinkknight Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightHomemade Electric Jet Engine Working Model (1:24 scale) Part 3InterlinkKnight2017-10-18 | Long ago I built a model of a jet engine (scale 1:24) that I made with an electric motor that moves, besides the fan, a set of gears and a flywheel that spin in 16:1 ratio, which I took from a flywheel-driven toy car.
Several people asked me to show the internals of the starter mechanism and fuel control lever. I didn't show it before because the panel was glued together, and removing it would damage the panel. I now re-consider it and did remove it for this 3rd part video, and even though it did damage the panel, it's not too bad.
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Website: interlinkknight.wixsite.com/interlinkknight Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightNextion+Arduino Tutorial #4 Custom Gauge And Play VideoInterlinkKnight2017-10-17 | I show how you can create a custom gauge for the Nextion display, and avoid the flickering that the traditional gauge has. I also show how to play a short video on the display.
FAQ: What model is your display? It's the 3.5" enhanced version NX4832K035.
Website: interlinkknight.wixsite.com/interlinkknight Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightNextion+Arduino Tutorial #3 RTC and EEPROM (Enhanced Version)InterlinkKnight2017-09-24 | I show how you can read/write the internal Real Time Clock (RTC) and EEPROM of the Nextion display enhanced version, and go deeper on how to write code for the display.
Note: On the video I said "microseconds", but it's actually milliseconds.
FAQ: What model is your display? It's the 3.5" enhanced version NX4832K035.
Website: interlinkknight.wixsite.com/interlinkknight Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightNextion+Arduino Tutorial #2 Sending Data To ArduinoInterlinkKnight2017-09-20 | I show a few examples on how you can send data from the Nextion display to the Arduino board and vice versa. This time I use the nextion library, but only to receive data from the display. To send data to the display I still prefer sending it without using the library (like I showed on my 1st tutorial), so this tutorial is a mix of both techniques.
Note: On the video I said "microseconds", but it's actually milliseconds.
FAQ: Why I am not using any library? The official library is too complicated. Sending data without the library it’s actually easier and straight forward.
Why I am not showing how to send data from the nextion display to arduino? For that, I would have to use the nextion library, and actually it's easier to send data to the display without the library. The tutorial for sending data from the display to arduino is on my 2nd video of this series.
Why I didn’t connect the blue cable to the Arduino board? For two reasons: 1st on this tutorial we are not transmitting anything from the Nextion display to the Arduino board so TX on the display can remain disconnected. 2nd the Arduino Nano (and Arduino Uno) only have one serial port that we also use to send the sketch. If you connect the TX blue cable of the display to Arduino RX it’s going to create a conflict and the uploading of the sketch it's going to fail.
What model is your display? It's the 3.5" enhanced version NX4832K035.
Website: interlinkknight.wixsite.com/interlinkknight Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnight426 Hemi Working Model Engine (1:6 Scale) - Part 2. It Works!InterlinkKnight2017-05-23 | Here's my model engine modified to run like a real one, even though is electric. It has a starter solenoid, speed sensor, temperature sensor and a DC motor to move the pulleys and the flywheel.
The idea of this project is to simulate a real engine but with electrical parts, instead of fuel, so is safe to run indoors and is easier to build.
My hemi model is much better than my first model, not only in appearance but also in realism.
I took the engine model “Revell 1/6 Dodge 426 Hemi Street Engine” and did a lot of modifications: - Make holes to fit the DC motor to reach the water pump pulley. - Put ball bearings on every single spinning part, except the water pump since it uses the motor’s bush bearings. - Fit a solenoid on the starter so the small gear can go in contact with the flywheel teeth when the solenoid is powered. Originally was always engaged to the flywheel. - Put several cables for decoration and to connect all electrical components. - The exhaust manifold originally was half-open so I fill it with epoxy putty. - Paint and did some detailing to a few parts to look more realistic. - Re-position the distributor to be in the correct place and to avoid interfering with the fuel lines.
There were a lot of challenges to complete these modifications. For example, some pulleys are not center correctly so they wobble and were hard to try to compensate. The major wobbling part is the fan, but is like this originally. Not much I can do about it. Also, some plastic parts are very brittle.
Recommended Tools: - Electronic Parts Tester (ESR LCR-T4): amzn.to/2QvQJlP - Breadboard (good quality): amzn.to/2QsyY3C - Jumper Wires (22 AWG): amzn.to/2Eamiux - Storage Case for Jumper Wire: https://www.walmart.com/ip/The-Hillma... - Multimeter (Fluke 17B+): amzn.to/2L3PNQk - Rigol DS1054Z Digital Oscilloscope: amzn.to/2C5ZwD7
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Website: interlinkknight.com Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnight426 Hemi Working Model Engine (1:6 Scale) - Part 1. PreviewInterlinkKnight2016-11-16 | Here's my model engine modified to run like a real one, even though is electric. It has a starter solenoid, speed sensor, temperature sensor and a DC motor to move the pulleys and the flywheel.
The idea of this project is to simulate a real engine but with electrical parts, instead of fuel, so is safe to run indoors and is easier to build.
My hemi model is much better than my first model, not only in appearance but also in realism.
As for the moment of recording this video, the model was complete but the controller wasn't. Watch part 2 to see the additions of: - Cluster with tachometer, warning lights, fuel and temp gauges, etc. - Put an Arduino board to control everything: starter, stall emulation, control gauges and warning lights, etc.
I took the engine model “Revell 1/6 Dodge 426 Hemi Street Engine” and did a lot of modifications: - Make holes to fit the DC motor to reach the water pump pulley. - Put ball bearings on every single spinning part, except the water pump since it uses the motor’s bush bearings. - Fit a solenoid on the starter so the small gear can go in contact with the flywheel teeth when the solenoid is powered. Originally was always engaged to the flywheel. - Put several cables for decoration and to connect all electrical components. - The exhaust manifold originally was half-open so I fill it with epoxy putty. - Paint and did some detailing to a few parts to look more realistic. - Re-position the distributor to be in the correct place and to avoid interfering with the fuel lines.
There were a lot of challenges to complete these modifications. For example, some pulleys are not center correctly so they wobble and were hard to try to compensate. The major wobbling part is the fan, but is like this originally. Not much I can do about it. Also, some plastic parts are very brittle.
Actually it’s cheaper if you start from scratch and buy the parts separately, but I already had this RGB light strip from Ikea so was easier for me to re-use that.
The video includes dogfights between fighters, battles with capital ships, transporting cargo, shooting with a turret gun... finishing with the Battle of Endor were the Rebels destroy the 2nd Death Star.
Screen recorder: Fraps 3.4.7 Video editor: Sony Vegas Pro 11
Special game features used: - Shift+F Record replay - Filming Room to watch the replays - Alt+J Flyby Camera (only on the last mission were the falcon is inside the Death Star) - Crtl+END toggles HUD on/off - C to drop camera in film room
Game Add-ons: - X-Wing Alliance Mission Campaign for Multiplayer (used to play with different crafts in some campaign missions) - Super Star Destroyer v1.0 by Dragon & General Trageton, courtesy of www.xwaupgrade.com - AlliED: Mission editor
Production time: 3 months
Why I didn't use all upgraded models of the X-Wing Upgrade Project? Because this video was intended to be about the original game. Never the less, I do include one upgraded model (the SSD) to show that aspects of the game. Another reason is that using upgrade models makes drop fps in my computer (not sure why, because is a new computer).
Have a question? Comment here and I will reply when I can.
Note: I originally upload this video on Jul 28, 2012 but I re-uploaded so it can include the music that was previously removed by YouTube for copyright reasons.
Website: interlinkknight.wixsite.com/interlinkknight Patreon: patreon.com/InterlinkKnightThief caught on security camera stealing Amazon packageInterlinkKnight2016-07-06 | My neighbor complaint about missing packages from Amazon. I search my security cameras and this is what I found...Homemade Electric Jet Engine Working Model (1:24 scale) Part 2InterlinkKnight2016-04-22 | This is a model of a jet engine (scale 1:24) that I made with an electric motor that moves, besides the fan, a set of gears and a flywheel that spin in 16:1 ratio, which I took from a flywheel-driven toy car.
The cool thing is that because of the flywheel, it makes the model react and sound similar to a real full-size jet engine.
Of course I know there are a lot of real homemade jet engines out there that are cooler that my humble model, but keep in mind that I made this just for fun, with only junk that was hanging around, and I spend just a few months (on and off) to made this. Besides there are a few advantages of having an electric model instead of a real jet engine model, like: is cheaper, is safer, is not too loud, etc.
I wasn't thinking in replicate any real jet engine in particular but as you can see is a model of a high-bypass turbofan for airliners, comparable to the CFM56 that is used on the Boeing 737.
At maximum speed the fan goes at 3600 RPM, and the fly wheel goes 16 times faster (57600 RPM).
Since I was a kid a plan to make this jet engine but I never accomplished, so the main purpose of this project was to fulfill that old wish, although it was also for fun.
I used: - DC motor of 12V that I extracted from an old hairdryer. - AC/DC adapter with output of 13.5V and 1000 mA. - AC 120V rheostat (dimmer) to use it as a throttle. - A gearbox with a flywheel which I took from a flywheel-driven toy car. It also has a little piece of plastic striking the gear of the flywheel to make the high-pitched whistling sound. - The blades of the fan are made of metal that I extracted from a bunch of 3½-inch HD floppy disks (the part that covers the exposed disk). I cut and mold every blade (20 of them) by hand. - For the N1 gauge I used an ammeter from an old record player, an electromagnet, 4 magnets and 4 diodes connected in a bridge configuration to convert the AC generated to DC. - I made the exterior with body filler, the same used for cars, and a lot of sanding and paint.
I recorded the first part video over a year ago, and drop the project. But recently I created the housing and did a few improvements so I posted this 2nd video.
This is part 2 showing a top speed upgrade from 3800 RPM to 4400 RPM. I also had to modify the tachometer to show a more accurate speed since before it was calibrated to show a higher speed compare to the real one.
It has: • Throttle pedal with full control of the engine speed. • Engine stalls at very low speed. • Analog tachometer. • Battery light. • Solenoid starter to look and sound like a real starter. • Auto-start timer to run the engine after holding the starter for a set period of time. If you release the starter too early the engine doesn't run. • After-start speedup to increase the speed in a very short time after starting. • Ignition switch with lock after starting to prevent starting the engine while running. • Internal flywheel to simulate more mass and make some noise. • Real screws on the back of the engine and the flywheel to be able to install a transmission.
To make it, I use mainly paperboard and a lot of epoxy glue. The main motor is on the bottom, which has a big pulley attach to another smaller motor that works as a generator for the tachometer. The tachometer is an volt meter gauge.
It uses a 32v power supply for the running speed, 12v for the relays, solenoid, etc, and 4.7v to rotate the engine slowly when is starting, independently from the pedal.
When I get a 3D printer I will make an automatic transmission and a manual transmission to connect it to my engine and simulate a working car.
It has: • Throttle pedal with full control of the engine speed. • Engine stalls at very low speed. • Analog tachometer. • Battery light. • Solenoid starter to look and sound like a real starter. • Auto-start timer to run the engine after holding the starter for a set period of time. If you release the starter too early the engine doesn't run. • After-start speedup to increase the speed in a very short time after starting. • Ignition switch with lock after starting to prevent starting the engine while running. • Internal flywheel to simulate more mass and make some noise. • Real screws on the back of the engine and the flywheel to be able to install a transmission.
To make it, I use mainly paperboard and a lot of epoxy glue. The main motor is on the bottom, which has a big pulley attach to another smaller motor that works as a generator for the tachometer. The tachometer is an volt meter gauge.
It uses a 24v power supply for the running speed, 12v for the relays, solenoid, etc, and 4.7v to rotate the engine slowly when is starting, independently from the pedal.
When I get a 3D printer I will make an automatic transmission and a manual transmission to connect it to my engine and simulate a working car.
Midi file: drive.google.com/open?id=1b_ekHPj6opABo-YmxrkxcNAofNVxcanyHow an Automatic Transmission Works (Allison 1000)InterlinkKnight2015-11-25 | This is a very detailed explanation on how the gears of this automatic transmission converts the rotation of the input to those 6 speeds and reverse, using 3D animation.
I didn't explain how the real clutches works so if you are interested on that watch the video on this link: youtube.com/watch?v=TcYsV063lk8