sciencetoymaker | OUT OF DATE Part 3 Surf an Origami Hang Glider on a Wave of Air_More Construction.mov @sciencetoymaker | Uploaded January 2010 | Updated October 2024, 10 hours ago.
This video is out of date; kept for archival purposes only. For designs that use foam and are easier to start with
sciencetoymaker.org/airsurf/index.htm
Here is the revised video for Origami Hang Glider(Handy Glider) Part 3
youtube.com/watch?v=62gKLPUnTsQ&t=2s
As you build and fly, here are some tips that I wish were in the video (updated instructional videos coming soon). If you keep these in mind as you go through the instructions, you might have a less frustrating time.
I no longer make a second glider out of the printer paper. It's just too heavy and I save time by just concentrating on the phone book paper one.
I no longer cut the notch in the front. I just fold that part now.
The center of gravity (CG) marks on the glider are starting points only. Adding more or removing weight shifts the CG forward or backward. This is very useful for dealing with stalling and diving.
Instead of straws for boom and weight, I now use the thin wire that's inside "twisties," those bendy things used to close plastic bags and also to wrap various cords when you first open the packaging of electronic equipment. I strip off the paper or plastic part off with pliers so it's more aerodynamic. When taped on, I can fine tune the by straightening the wire for more leverage (more downward force to counteract stalling). Or I can fold the wire back on itself for less downward leverage (if the glider is diving). It's easier than adding or cutting off tape.
When taping the wire on, fold that short, very front fold too, so the tape folds too.
The two diagonal folds near the front of the glider—the ones that make the under curve (camber)--have to be creased firmly to establish the folds. HOWEVER, when flying, they should only be bent enough to keep the glider from buckling (bending where it is supposed to stiff enough not to bend). Too much fold, which causes too much camber, makes the glider dive uncontrollably. The boom weight in the front also pushes the front down, but its push is self-limiting. Not so the front (leading edge, LE) if it's bent down too much—it pushes the glider down harder when it's divining. A good way to limit the camber is to stick the glider in the middle of the phone book and close it. In a few seconds it seems to flatten the glider just enough.
I have concluded that a well adjusted glider does not need the vertical stabilizers at the sides. That reduces weight in the back, which means a bit less weight needed in the front, so it's a bit more efficient. If you cut off the stabilizers, just round the sharp corners a little.
When learning to fly—before you use your hands to create the air wave—I am finding something small that can be held with one hand, like a breakfast cereal box, works better than something big and bulky.
This video is out of date; kept for archival purposes only. For designs that use foam and are easier to start with
sciencetoymaker.org/airsurf/index.htm
Here is the revised video for Origami Hang Glider(Handy Glider) Part 3
youtube.com/watch?v=62gKLPUnTsQ&t=2s
As you build and fly, here are some tips that I wish were in the video (updated instructional videos coming soon). If you keep these in mind as you go through the instructions, you might have a less frustrating time.
I no longer make a second glider out of the printer paper. It's just too heavy and I save time by just concentrating on the phone book paper one.
I no longer cut the notch in the front. I just fold that part now.
The center of gravity (CG) marks on the glider are starting points only. Adding more or removing weight shifts the CG forward or backward. This is very useful for dealing with stalling and diving.
Instead of straws for boom and weight, I now use the thin wire that's inside "twisties," those bendy things used to close plastic bags and also to wrap various cords when you first open the packaging of electronic equipment. I strip off the paper or plastic part off with pliers so it's more aerodynamic. When taped on, I can fine tune the by straightening the wire for more leverage (more downward force to counteract stalling). Or I can fold the wire back on itself for less downward leverage (if the glider is diving). It's easier than adding or cutting off tape.
When taping the wire on, fold that short, very front fold too, so the tape folds too.
The two diagonal folds near the front of the glider—the ones that make the under curve (camber)--have to be creased firmly to establish the folds. HOWEVER, when flying, they should only be bent enough to keep the glider from buckling (bending where it is supposed to stiff enough not to bend). Too much fold, which causes too much camber, makes the glider dive uncontrollably. The boom weight in the front also pushes the front down, but its push is self-limiting. Not so the front (leading edge, LE) if it's bent down too much—it pushes the glider down harder when it's divining. A good way to limit the camber is to stick the glider in the middle of the phone book and close it. In a few seconds it seems to flatten the glider just enough.
I have concluded that a well adjusted glider does not need the vertical stabilizers at the sides. That reduces weight in the back, which means a bit less weight needed in the front, so it's a bit more efficient. If you cut off the stabilizers, just round the sharp corners a little.
When learning to fly—before you use your hands to create the air wave—I am finding something small that can be held with one hand, like a breakfast cereal box, works better than something big and bulky.
