Mr. Chickadee | Our timber frame cabin part XVII: JOISTS AND SUB FLOOR @MrChickadee | Uploaded January 2017 | Updated October 2024, 2 minutes ago.
For our cabins floor we started with a layer of Tulip Poplar boards nailed across the bottom of the frame. A layer of R15 mineral wool was placed on top of this to act as our thermal break. Floor joists were given a diminished curve to match their respective pockets in the frame with axe and adze, then forged iron staples were driven in creating the action of “tying Joists”.
A second layer of R23 batt insulation went on between the joists then a simple rough sawn poplar subfloor. Rodent screen was stapled over all gaps in the underfloor boards before the first layer of insulation was added.
Our cabin utilizes no vapor barriers as we have learned these are a very modern idea which can cause more problems than they solve. Retarding the migration of vapor often causes terrible issues with mold, rot and other problems. Well ventilated insulation applied in a draft proof - non thermal bridging matrix is the ticket!
For our cabins floor we started with a layer of Tulip Poplar boards nailed across the bottom of the frame. A layer of R15 mineral wool was placed on top of this to act as our thermal break. Floor joists were given a diminished curve to match their respective pockets in the frame with axe and adze, then forged iron staples were driven in creating the action of “tying Joists”.
A second layer of R23 batt insulation went on between the joists then a simple rough sawn poplar subfloor. Rodent screen was stapled over all gaps in the underfloor boards before the first layer of insulation was added.
Our cabin utilizes no vapor barriers as we have learned these are a very modern idea which can cause more problems than they solve. Retarding the migration of vapor often causes terrible issues with mold, rot and other problems. Well ventilated insulation applied in a draft proof - non thermal bridging matrix is the ticket!
