Bens Workshop
0 6 0 Speedy 5 Inch gauge Steam locomotive in GWR colours
updated
0:00 Introduction
2:32 filing the burs off the fingers so they can be withdrawn.
3:55 Trying to withdraw a finger
6:24 Looking at a finger, cleaning threads.
7:39 Filing the finger a bit more, and making sure it slides freely
8:57 Checking the locking bolt thread
12:35 Removing another finger
14:59 Removing locking spacer
15:25 Cleaing threads
16:44 Checking threads run nicely
18:30 Removing a sticking finger
19:26 Checking and clearing more locking threads
21:20 Checking adjusting threads run freely
22:13 Checking another finger moves freely
23:55 "adjusting" finger
25:35 Checking other fingers
27:15 Checking other adjusting threads and fingers
30:10 Putting it back together
33:15 Conclusions
(Also sometimes called a Dixon type)
From the description, it is called a Torrens Quick Change toolpost.
Here is is a review, unboxing and it in operation so you can see if you think it is any good.
I bought is from Workshoptools-2020 and it is eBay item number 354228234204
ebay.co.uk/itm/354228234204
Shop:
ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ssn=workshoptools-2020&store_name=acuuratetools&_oac=1&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562
0:00 Introduction
0:40 What is in the box
3:27 How the toolpost actually works
4:19 Comments on condition
5:05 What you get
9:10 Fitting to the lathe
11:23 A better look at the tool holders
12:29 Setting a tool's center height
16:00 Parting steel.
19:56 Checking center height on parting blade
21:47 Facing off steel
23:14 Turning steel
24:43 Looking at the results
25:09 Facing off aluminium
26:45 Boring aluminium
30:45 Looking at the results of boring aluminium
30:54 Conclusions
More to follow.
More to follow.
More to follow.
More to follow.
More to follow.
More to follow.
More to follow.
I used the Lidl Parkside PTMI 180A1 Inverter Welder/TIG Welder I reviewed here:
youtube.com/watch?v=W8aYSHzhS2k
0:00 Introduction
1:30 Welder settings
4:10 Tacking
5:53 Running the root weld
8:30 Showing the root weld
8:50 Running the cap weld
13:15 First look at the weld
13:51 Removing slag and some safety warnings
17:09 Looking at squareness
17:35 Conclusion
Many thanks to James @Turbo Conquering Mega Eagle who provided a very useful comment.
If you want to find one here are some useful search terms:
Search terms
"stainless steel camping stove"
"stainless folding steel camping stove"
"portable folding wood burning stove stainless steel outdoor camping"
0:00 Introduction and unboxing
1:55 First lighting attempt
6:42 Lighting the stove
10:21 Kettle on!
10:56 Kettle Boiled!
12:02 A look in the fire
13:06 A look at the stove after the fire
14:23 Putting the stove away
15:11 Conclusions
The Popular Mechanics arbor press was made by @Fireball Tool
Here I discuss if either will work.
A couple of weeks ago someone asked for advice on how you should approach lighting one for the first time when it is new to you. This video hopefully answers those questions.
Quite a few people in the comments decided to tell me that I was doing it incorrectly, so I have posted a picture of the instructions in a community post (link below) and a picture of the instructions too. The text was produced by my Google Pixel 6A
youtube.com/post/UgkxQQPzwDARk8fRH-q2GX3Tc-P21KM-O5E_
0:00 Introduction
0:48 Unboxing
1:07 The instructions
1:35 Opening the stove and things to check
3:13 The cleaning needle
4:47 If you are worried about fire
6:22 Additional safety note
7:35 Filling with fuel
9:13 Filling the spirit cup
10:46 Lighting the spirit cup
12:15 Lighting the burner
13:09 Putting the kettle on!
14:37 Kettle boiled! make tea!
15:35 Turning off and back to the workshop and conslusions.
youtube.com/user/storeman001
He really is a top man and has some amusing videos.
In December 2021, @Fireball Tool published a video of making a 10 ton arbor press from plans from Popular Mechanics, and was discussing that with someone when they said there was an alternative from Home Shop Machinist, for a 40 to arbor press that looks the same.
See issues:HSM Vol. 05 No. 3 May-Jun 1986
HSM Vol. 05 No. 4 Jul-Aug 1986
If you want to see the build subscribe!
If you would like to contribute to tooling etc, please hit the super thanks.
0:00 Introduction
0:49 Showing the 3 different torches the Vortex has
2:00 Showing the job and preparation
2:55 Showing the joint
4:27 Applying flux
6:14 Pre-heating to dry the flux
6:34 Heating to brazing temperature
7:23 Applying brazing rod
8:12 Quenching
9:02 Showing the results
9:39 Conclusions
This video is long to show in real time how long it takes to heat steel up to a high enough temperature to braze with SIF Bronze No 1 brazing rods which melt at 900C but flow freely at 950 to 1000.
0:00 Introduction
1:02 Showing previous brazing attempt
1:18 The Vortex Brazing torch and gas Unboxing
3:01 Changing the torch end
4:00 Putting it together and instructions
4:40 Mixing flux
6:25 Applying flux
6:57 Fitting gas cylinder
7:44 Heating the work to braze
11:54 Applying brazing rod
12:21 Done!
12:49 Quenching
12:56 The result
13:19 Second part to be brazed, applying flux
14:30 Heating the work
20:55 Applying brazing rod
22:24 Finished heating, now Quenching
25:04 Looking at the result
25:40 Conclusions
0:00 Introduction
0:37 Mixing flux
3:01 Applying the flux
3:52 Applying heat
5:08 Applying silver solder
5:58 Cooling the work piece
6:53 Showing the results
7:46 Showing failed brazing
8:26 The end
Please note the air nibbler is hampered by the small compressor I currently have access to.
0:00 Introduction
0:40 A look at the air nibbler
0:55 Electic and air nibblers side by side
1:05 Differences bewteen air and electric nibblers
1:42 Air nibbler cut
2:25 Electic nibbler cut
2:45 Curve cutting with the air nibbler
3:35 Comparing to cut from electric nibbler
3:56 Comparing long straight cuts
5:59 The results
6:20 Conclusions
The set of consumables I bought that were in the video are here:
amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B098DVKR7Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
0:00 Introduction
0:35 Where to get consumbles
1:30 A look at some consumbles
9:28 Test TIG welding some box section
14:40 Results of TIG welding
15:48 Test MIG welding
18:54 Results of MIG welding
19:15 Conclusions
After a view asked about cut finish and how tight a curve it could cut I made this video to answer the question. The original video is here:
youtube.com/watch?v=fhtk3nD92yg
0:00 Introduction
1:05 Straight cut
1:29 How is the finish?
2:28 Cutting a tight curve
3:03 The result of a tight curve cut
4:13 A better look at finish
4:30 A look at the swarf
4:52 Conclusions
And how long should the video of me making a swarf pickup tool be?
This i a quick easy repair, though you do need to make sure you either have an appropriate syphon washer or bit of soft flexible plastic.
Also, at the end, you can see I have the pipe going in to the cistern at an angle, this is wrong and has led to drips. That is a quick fix, a video will be coming on that.
0:00 Introduction
0:25 Stopping the water without a shut off
2:00 Emptying the cistern of water
3:10 Undoing the syphon coupling
4:45 Disconnecting the flush handle from the syphon
5:02 Disassembly of the syphon
5:10 Removing old syphon washer
6:10 Fitting a new washer
10:35 Re-assembly of the syphon unit
11:57 Reconnecting the flush leaver
12:19 Fitting the pipe. (Badly...)
15:13 Filling up and testing
16:37 Fixing a small leak with rubber grease
19:40 Refitting everything (Still not quite right)
22:04 Refilling and testing
23:40 Conclusions
A neighbour asked if I had anything that would cut an oil barrel lid open. I said I did. Here is the result.
Here I fill in a hole in the mortar between bricks that could allow mice to get in. It is a quick and simple job.
The adaptor I used was BOC stock number 6355,
See here:
boconline.co.uk/shop/en/uk/hose-adaptor-3-8inchf-1-4inchm-rh-6355-boc
Also this one looks right to:
welding-protection.co.uk/products/straight-adaptor-1-4-nut-3-8-rh
0:00 Introduction
0:19 Unboxing
1:44 Problem with the lead and solution
2:33 Finishing unboxing
4:32 The TIG Torch
7:36 A regulator for the welder
8:28 Problem with the gas connection and its solution
10:02 Preparation of metal to be welded
10:35 Grinding the tungsten electrode
13:57 Back from Lidl with a new welder
14:40 Showing how to tighten the regulator fittings and setting flow rate
16:15 Adjusting the welder settings
17:23 Safety notes
18:26 TIG welding mild steel 3mm thick
20:16 Showing the weld
20:46 TIG welding 1.2 mm stainless steel
23:45 Showing the stainless steel weld
24:05 welding stainless steel pipe badly
26:35 welding stainless steel pipe
31:26 Showing the weld on stainless steel pipe
33:05 TIG Welding 1mm mild steel sheet
37:40 Showing the result
39:13 TIG welding a thin stainless steel corner
43:20 Showing the result
44:21 Arc MMA Welding 1/2 inch steel plate with a 4mm rod
46:40 Showing the result
48:40 An explanation of how the settings work
49:52 Conclusion
In this video where I went into detail on removing injectors on these cars, you can see I could not move the injector in No 2 cylinder. Here I remove it.
youtube.com/watch?v=ItxyBr37jOk
I will edit a video of a more difficult (in a different way) injector removal and publish soon.
0:00 Introduction
0:15 What I am using
0:55 Undoing pipe unions
1:35 Removing rocker cover injector seal
1:48 Trying to remove the hot injector
6:05 Taking the injector out but risking a split injector
8:24 Using a home made injector puller
9:42 Cleaning the tube and removing the sealing washer
16:27 Ftiing new injector
20:05 Wiring etc
22:16 removing Wiring etc to fit the rocker seal I forgot
24:43 Testing and looking for leaks
25:33 Conclusions
So here is my Lidl Parkside Cordless Chainsaw PKSA 20 LI-A1 that I first reviewed on the 29th of March 2020 (link below) trying to cut a leylandii hedge down to size.
The original review is here:
youtube.com/watch?v=zPZ655k30pw
And there is an update here:
youtube.com/watch?v=_l5hJdsho3g
youtube.com/watch?v=ItxyBr37jOk
Making the tools originally
youtube.com/watch?v=dbYAYrCP_QY
0:00 Introduction
0:50 Cutting up the old one
3:27 Cleaning up and chamfering in the lathe
7:43 Cutting a slot for the spanner
13:34 welding the height extension on
15:50 Cleaning up the weld
17:29 Adjusting the handle to fit
18:30 welding the handle on
23:55 welding on a handle extension
28:46 Letting it cool down and conclusions
It is the same as a Ford Modeo Mk III diesel.
The home made tool will need making a little taller. The video I made it in is here:
youtube.com/watch?v=dbYAYrCP_QY
0:00 Introduction
0:32 Removing engine cover
0:56 Removing Leak off connectors
1:21 Why you need to prevent the Injector body from rotating
2:49 Removing leak off pipe
3:26 Removing electrical connector
3:47 Removing injector pipe
4:49 Failed attempt to remove injector No 2
7:31 Removing injector No 4 leak off
13:28 Fitting new injector
15:15 Torquing it up
16:05 Re-fitting the injector boot
17:00 Re-fitting injector pipe
18:00 Connecting the electrical connector
18:15 Re-fitting leak off connector
18:38 Test starting the engine
20:13 Conclusions
This is the last part of around 55 minutes I filmed. If you would like to see the full video, let me know by commenting below.
Opening wasn't difficult, extracting batteries however was a bit tedious.
0:00 Introduction
0:30 Opening the torch, breaking the corrosion
4:32 The state of it!
4:50 Removing the leaking batteries.
17:30 Conclusions
If you like this sort of thing, there's more in the playlists and there will be more later this year!
I might even do another from the drivers point of view.
I did keep saying injector when I meant injector pump though... Sorry.
I mentioned some YouTubers who also play with stationary engines but more than I do and their channels are listed below should you wish to check them out.
@enginelover1
youtube.com/user/enginelover1
@crazyenginewiz
youtube.com/user/crazyenginewiz
@Dieseljonnyboy
youtube.com/user/Dieseljonnyboy
@Turbo Conquering Mega Eagle
youtube.com/channel/UCRv3Np2ihYxOKolEp_cyBYg
It holds 6 pints (3/4 of a gallon) or paraffin/kerosene.
0:00 Introduction
1:50 Removing shield
3:12 Looking at the jet assembly
3:34 Removing burner from the tank
4:38 Draining the fuel
5:48 A closer look at the burner
6:20 Removing the jet
7:00 Cleaning the jet
8:30 Refitting the jet
9:40 Refitting the burner assembly
10:40 Refitting the burner shield
11:27 Testing pressure tightness
11:54 Filling up with Paraffin/Kerosene
13:43 Wiping up spillages
15:01 Pumping up the reservoir
15:18 Pouring methylated spirits in the spirit cup
15:55 Lighting the methylated spirits
16:45 Main flame ignition!
21:35 Proper blue flame!
23:07 Trying to work out how to turn it off.
24:35 Worked out you need the air release and control valve both open.
24:45 Conclusions
After this treatment it works great. I have also bought some more fuel.
During the video I said I would link to some, here they are:
Setting up our portable track
youtube.com/watch?v=0IJg5Gbgigg
Hercules, an 0-4-0 tank engine
youtube.com/watch?v=C__FoalxfJk
Drivers eye view, driving Hercules
youtube.com/watch?v=gCL-dHvDwng
Speedy, an 0-6-0 tank engine
youtube.com/watch?v=OJC83K4uh64
Brian, an 0-6-0 Simplex tank engine
youtube.com/watch?v=5olybv2UW9M
A fellow YouTuber inherited a camera and this video is here to help him work out what it is and how to use it. My Twin Lens Reflex camera is a Yashica Mat-124G, his is a Yashica LM-44 (the LM for Light Meter and 44 for 44 mm square negatives)
The manual for the Yashica LM-44 can be downloaded from here:
butkus.org/chinon/yashica/yashica_lm_44/yashica_lm_44.htm
The picture of film rolls in this video is from here:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Film_127_135_120_IMGP1797_WP_(crop).jpg
And is copyright Rainer Knäpper, and is used under the Free Art License which can be found here:
http://artlibre.org/licence/lal/en
John over at @doubleboost published a series of 3 videos with is friend Bob on micrometer servicing which goes into more depth:
See pinned comment for links to Bob servicing micrometers.
0:00 Introduction
0:37 The first problem
0:54 Un-jamming the locking nut
1:52 Oiling the spindle thread
2:18 spindle freed off!
2:39 Removing rust with a soft brass brush
3:34 Removing the spindle
4:04 Inspecting the threads
7:54 After cleaning the threads with brake cleaner
8:05 cleaning the lock nut
9:50 First re-assembly
11:11 Checking calibration
12:49 Attempting to calibrate the micrometer
14:25 Disassembly to free barrel
17:37 Re-Checking calibration
18:32 Error in where the barrel is
19:00 Resetting the barrel position
19:40 Adjusting the stiffness of the thread
25:14 Checking final calibration
26:29 Conclusion
I made this video after a viewer question. Hope it helps. Any questions please ask below.
0:00 Introduction
0:31 Wiring diagram for switch
0:52 Wiring diagram for Hoover fractional horse power induction motor
2:07 5 core wire to be used
2:55 Wiring up the motor
9:10 Wiring up the drum switch
12:20 Testing.
13:02 Conclusion
0:00 Introduction
0:55 The issue
1:09 Removing base cover
2:06 Examining the internal wiring
3:05 Removing old wiring
6:58 Preparing new mains lead
10:20 Putting on crimped wire ends
22:22 Fitting the new mains lead
24:22 Refitting base
25:40 Testing
26:37 Conclusion
Showing how I use it and the care with which they must be used.
Here I check the runout in a chuck and fix it. Turned out to be the taper on the arbor in the Triangle brand Chinese made chuck that came with the mill drill.
youtube.com/watch?v=LktUYTIsD4c
I ended up cutting the threads to 1/4 x 20 Whitworth though 1/4 x 20 UNC also works as the threads in cameras are forgiving.
Any questions please ask.
0:00 Introduction
1:30 Making the nut to tighten the camera
4:32 Starting to part the nut
7:22 Chamfering front and back of the nut
9:06 Parting off the nut
10:56 Using the drill to put the nut square in the lathe chuck
11:33 Failing to tap nut with rubbish tap
12:34 Chamfering either side of the hole in the nut.
15:00 Tapping to 1/4 Whitworth (1/4 x 20) but with the wrong Tapping
16:37 Finding that I'd tapped to 7/32 Whitworth (Also 20 TPI)
16:55 Actually tapping with 1/4 Whitworth
19:15 Testing the threaded nut
19:40 Cleaning the spigot up
21:10 Turning down the end to 1/4" for the camera thread.
28:33 Filing down and filing a chamfer/lead for the thread
29:45 Using a die to cut the thread
32:52 Testing the thread and nut with a camera (sort of)
35:00 Parting off, cleaning up etc
38:37 Demonstration and conclusions
It is a learning process.