Annual Reviews Extra | Modeling the Morphodynamics of Coastal Responses to Extreme Events: Supplemental Video 1 @annualreviewsextra | Uploaded August 2021 | Updated October 2024, 21 minutes ago.
A supplemental video from the 2021 review by Christopher R. Sherwood, Ap van Dongeren, James Doyle, Christie A. Hegermiller, Tian-Jian Hsu, Tarandeep S. Kalra, Maitane Olabarrieta, Allison M. Penko, Yashar Rafati, Dano Roelvink, Marlies van der Lugt, Jay Veeramony, and John C. Warner, "Modeling the Morphodynamics of Coastal Responses to Extreme Events: What Shape Are We In?," from the Annual Review of Marine Science: annualreviews.org/doi/10.1146/annurev-marine-032221-090215
Shown: Computer simulation of waves, sand transport, and morphology changes during Hurricane Matthew at Matanzas, FL. Cross-shore velocity (red-green colors), pre-storm topography and bathymetry (gray lines), and current topography and bathymetry (black lines) at three cross-barrier transects: northern, breach, and southern. The transects are indicated in white on the map of the pre-storm topography and bathymetry in the top right panel. Time series of the water level gradient across the barrier and of the offshore significant wave height, with the current time marked in red, are on the bottom right. Note that the negative water level gradient indicates that ocean water levels were lower than back-barrier water levels. The water level gradient and the significant wave height (gray line) were filtered to remove infragravity and sea-swell wave group signals.
At the beginning of the storm, typical cross-shore circulation patterns emerged, with onshore currents at the surface and offshore currents (undertow) at the bed. As offshore waves increased, wave action on the beach face and at the dune toe lead to erosion and transport of sediment offshore. At the peak of offshore waves, overwash of the now vulnerable dune crest occurred, with transport of sediment from the dune to the back-barrier. Dunes were lowered further. Transitions from collision to overwash storm regimes (Sallenger, 2000) occurred at different times due to spatial variability in dune crest height and water levels. Water levels increased in the back-barrier due to phase lags between the storm surge in the coastal ocean and in the back-barrier waterway, and due to overwash. Ultimately, the water level gradient across the barrier drove a flow that breached the barrier. Sediment was transported into the coastal ocean, where it formed a small deposit.
A supplemental video from the 2021 review by Christopher R. Sherwood, Ap van Dongeren, James Doyle, Christie A. Hegermiller, Tian-Jian Hsu, Tarandeep S. Kalra, Maitane Olabarrieta, Allison M. Penko, Yashar Rafati, Dano Roelvink, Marlies van der Lugt, Jay Veeramony, and John C. Warner, "Modeling the Morphodynamics of Coastal Responses to Extreme Events: What Shape Are We In?," from the Annual Review of Marine Science: annualreviews.org/doi/10.1146/annurev-marine-032221-090215
Shown: Computer simulation of waves, sand transport, and morphology changes during Hurricane Matthew at Matanzas, FL. Cross-shore velocity (red-green colors), pre-storm topography and bathymetry (gray lines), and current topography and bathymetry (black lines) at three cross-barrier transects: northern, breach, and southern. The transects are indicated in white on the map of the pre-storm topography and bathymetry in the top right panel. Time series of the water level gradient across the barrier and of the offshore significant wave height, with the current time marked in red, are on the bottom right. Note that the negative water level gradient indicates that ocean water levels were lower than back-barrier water levels. The water level gradient and the significant wave height (gray line) were filtered to remove infragravity and sea-swell wave group signals.
At the beginning of the storm, typical cross-shore circulation patterns emerged, with onshore currents at the surface and offshore currents (undertow) at the bed. As offshore waves increased, wave action on the beach face and at the dune toe lead to erosion and transport of sediment offshore. At the peak of offshore waves, overwash of the now vulnerable dune crest occurred, with transport of sediment from the dune to the back-barrier. Dunes were lowered further. Transitions from collision to overwash storm regimes (Sallenger, 2000) occurred at different times due to spatial variability in dune crest height and water levels. Water levels increased in the back-barrier due to phase lags between the storm surge in the coastal ocean and in the back-barrier waterway, and due to overwash. Ultimately, the water level gradient across the barrier drove a flow that breached the barrier. Sediment was transported into the coastal ocean, where it formed a small deposit.
