FarmCraft101 | John Deere 1010 Engine Rebuild. @FarmCraft101 | Uploaded February 2024 | Updated October 2024, 3 minutes ago.
Rebuilding a John Deere 1010 diesel engine, from the block and pistons, the head and valves, to running again, maybe?

Area diesel service video: youtube.com/watch?v=t3bj09x-eKM&t=168s
Hazard Fraught transmission jack nearly collapses here: youtu.be/djNqJGDWSSw

Questions, etc:
1. I didn't address the ring gap in the video. Those rings are fitted for nominal size, intended to be "drop-in" right out of the box. They have plenty of gap, but I wish I had talked about it in the video. It's definitely important to make sure the ring gap is above the minimum! If they are too tight, they will get hot, the gap will close, and then the rings push too hard against the cylinder walls and do damage.
2. Many have questioned that I put oil behind the bearings (between the rod bearings and the rod/cap.) Thanks for this, you guys have taught me something. My thinking on oiling them was because they were oily when I disassembled them, I didn't want condensation to cause rust, and there was a cross hatch machined into the rod and cap surfaces which I assumed was for oil carrying. I now know the concern is that the lubrication back there can cause a spun bearing. I'm doubtful, because with oil being pumped in between the bearing and the journal, I think it's unlikely that the friction between the bearing and the rod will ever be less than with the journal. The oil also changes the clearance a tiny bit, but my journals had some wear on them so that won't be a problem. All that said, I think I will do them dry in the future.
3. What were the metal bits I found in the bell housing? One clever person commented that those metal bits were probably the gear teeth from a previous starter. That’s what they look like, and I think he is right. If the bendix gear teeth break off they would fall down into that space and remain there under the engine is removed. You guys are smart!

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