How to Hangboard | 3  Exercises for Stronger Fingers @hannahmorrisbouldering
How to Hangboard | 3  Exercises for Stronger Fingers  @hannahmorrisbouldering
Uploaded July 2023 | Updated September 2026, 21 minutes ago
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For many years, I had the misconception that hangboards and hang board training were only for the strong, and only for getting strong. Whilst yes, they are great tools for maximising finger strength off the wall, there’s also many different ways to use a hangboard to cater to different goals and circumstances.

Picking up a finger injury this year forced me to take a step back and consider some gaps in my climbing and training that not only could be a valuable injury prevention tool but also a way to rehab my finger and come back a healthier climber overall. In this video, I share 3 ways to use a hangboard to improve your overall climbing and finger health, suitable for beginners through to advanced climbers.

00:00 Introduction to Hangboarding : How I've been using a hangboard in my climbing training
01:08 Disclaimer | I'm not a physio, consult a climbing professional before you hang board
02:27 Hang board Protocol 1: Density Hangs
03:40 Hang board Protocol 1: Grip types
06:04 Hang board Protocol 2: Body Weight Repeaters
07:54 Hang board Protocol 3: Max Hangs
09:51 Nathan's top tip for Hangboard Training

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How to Hangboard | 3 Exercises for Stronger Fingers

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