Uploaded May 2021 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
// TIMESTAMPS //
Context and Overview (00:00)
Part 1: Range of Motion Activities (01:12)
Part 2: Tissue Mobilization (02:04)
Part 3: Stretching (03:00)
Part 4: Retraining Flexors and Extensors (05:52)
Part 5: Retraining Lumbricals (08:11)
Part 6: Prognosis (12:19)
Outro and Bloopers (13:20)
// SHOW NOTES //
INTRODUCTION
Oh no! If you’re here I guess that means you injured your lumbricals :/ sad. BUT, there’s hope my friends! Because in this video, we’ll show you how to solve that! We’re going to cover HOW to rehab from a mild, moderate, and even severe lumbrical injury, with information on range of motion activities, stretching, retraining, and lumbrical strengthening.
If you love guides! Be sure to check out a simple guideline that helps make this entire process feel so much easier to follow and understand.
If you haven’t already, definitely check out our video on everything you need to know about the lumbricals! This will absolutely help you on your recovery journey as you’ll be able to better understand the anatomy and function of the lumbricals and why they get injured in the first place. That video will also help you determine the severity of your injury, which is important to know before starting rehab.
Rehab activities and timing for a lumbrical issue will depend on the severity, and if you suspect a high grade tear you need to see an orthopedic or hand specialist. If, on the other hand, you’re just suffering from a strain, Grade I-III, you will follow a standard protocol of range of motion, stretching, tissue mobility, and finally retraining.
Side note: with most grade I & II strains, you can continue to lightly climb! Just avoid exacerbating positions and consider buddy taping to help with this.
REHAB ACTIVITY 1: RANGE OF MOTION
If you have just a Grade I or II strain, I recommend starting range of motion right away. Active range of motion tendon mobility work will be best and I’ll describe all 3 movements in a moment. But first, I want to mention that the “L” position is the one to give the most attention to as it will best target the lumbricals. The “L” position is achieved by keeping the fingers extended but flexing at the metacarpal joint.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-heal-from-a-lumbrical-injury-5-simple-stages-to-recover
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#climbingtraining #trainclimbsendrepeat #physicaltherapy
☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: hoopersbeta.com/store
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: hoopersbeta.com/coaching
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
- $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
- 10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta
- 10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
- 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA
- REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
- 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": macrofactorapp.com
➡️Gyms:
- The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: thewallclimbinggym.com
- Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!
// TIMESTAMPS //
Context and Overview (00:00)
Part 1: Range of Motion Activities (01:12)
Part 2: Tissue Mobilization (02:04)
Part 3: Stretching (03:00)
Part 4: Retraining Flexors and Extensors (05:52)
Part 5: Retraining Lumbricals (08:11)
Part 6: Prognosis (12:19)
Outro and Bloopers (13:20)
// SHOW NOTES //
INTRODUCTION
Oh no! If you’re here I guess that means you injured your lumbricals :/ sad. BUT, there’s hope my friends! Because in this video, we’ll show you how to solve that! We’re going to cover HOW to rehab from a mild, moderate, and even severe lumbrical injury, with information on range of motion activities, stretching, retraining, and lumbrical strengthening.
If you love guides! Be sure to check out a simple guideline that helps make this entire process feel so much easier to follow and understand.
If you haven’t already, definitely check out our video on everything you need to know about the lumbricals! This will absolutely help you on your recovery journey as you’ll be able to better understand the anatomy and function of the lumbricals and why they get injured in the first place. That video will also help you determine the severity of your injury, which is important to know before starting rehab.
Rehab activities and timing for a lumbrical issue will depend on the severity, and if you suspect a high grade tear you need to see an orthopedic or hand specialist. If, on the other hand, you’re just suffering from a strain, Grade I-III, you will follow a standard protocol of range of motion, stretching, tissue mobility, and finally retraining.
Side note: with most grade I & II strains, you can continue to lightly climb! Just avoid exacerbating positions and consider buddy taping to help with this.
REHAB ACTIVITY 1: RANGE OF MOTION
If you have just a Grade I or II strain, I recommend starting range of motion right away. Active range of motion tendon mobility work will be best and I’ll describe all 3 movements in a moment. But first, I want to mention that the “L” position is the one to give the most attention to as it will best target the lumbricals. The “L” position is achieved by keeping the fingers extended but flexing at the metacarpal joint.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-heal-from-a-lumbrical-injury-5-simple-stages-to-recover
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
instagram.com/hoopersbetaofficial
#climbingtraining #trainclimbsendrepeat #physicaltherapy
