Uploaded April 2018 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
How to video to show you how I've made my first Ethereum Using a Silicone Mould. Not using a mining computer ;)
I've used some carbon fiber plates to create a template and go from a 2D shape to a 3D shape. Using hot glue and superglue I was able to achieve that 3D shape. After that it's just a matter of coating everything, depending on the material used to finish your part before being able to make a mould. I've used Epoxy laminating resin here, but you could use some specialized coating resins as well. After that it's just a matter of sanding everything with 80 grid sanding paper inbetween the coats untill your happy with the result of your shape and most voids are filled. I've finished the part with a 2K clear coat to have a decent high gloss finish I was happy with. Keep in mind that your silicone mould will have exactly the same finish as your part you are casting. meaning every scratch, dent, void will be visible in your mould so visible in your casted parts. So it's a good thing to get your mother mould perfect to cast perfect parts instead of having to retouch every part that comes out of your mould. Like I said in the video I've used an mdf board to raise the part from the bottom plate to allow excess resin to stay in the silicone mould instead of it dripping out. The mistake I've made was using mdf that is a porous wood composite. Meaning the silicone soaked in to the mdf making it harder to demould. A good solution to fix this would be sealing the wood with varnish or epoxy or simply use another material that is non-porous. I then used the silicone from easy composites CS2 (you can find data-sheets on their website if needed). Mixing ratio's are 100:10 meaning 1kg of part A will require 100grams of part B. Then your thoroughly mix the resin using a mixingtool or by hand depending on the amount you are making. I've decide to colour the silicone red with pigments to have a better view of how mush resin was casted when casting. If you are looking for the best results possible it's needed to degass the silicone in a vacuum-chamber with a decent vacuumpump to remove any excess air or bubbles in the silicone. Keep in mind that the silicone mixture might raise up to 10 times before collapsing so make sure you use a big bucket or pot to degass your silicone. Then it's just a matter of pouring the silicone in your pre-maid mould cavity and wait for it to cure. After demoulding your silicone you will be able to cast many parts out of your mould with different finishes you desire. You could use some translucent pigments or full colour pigments. You could also use additives like metal flakes, gold flakes...the choices are up to you to be creative. I've used some Epoxy infusion resins IN2 from easy composites for the translucent black part and P6 polyurethane with black tint for the first one. You can also find all the products on the Easycomposites Website.
More casting video's will follow. focusing more on cheaper moulds, faster mouldings, variations in casting resins.
Hope you liked the video and don't forget to give the video a like/share/comment and subscribe!
Materials used are from Easy Composites and can all be found on their website easycomposites.co.uk
Make sure to follow me on instagram as well for daily pictures!
Instagram: @matthieulibeert
Facebook: facebook.com/MAT2COMPOSITES
Website: mat2composites.com
Twitter: @matthieutje65
LinkedIn: Matthieu Libeert
How To Cast Ethereum logo (Crypto)
How to video to show you how I've made my first Ethereum Using a Silicone Mould. Not using a mining computer ;)
I've used some carbon fiber plates to create a template and go from a 2D shape to a 3D shape. Using hot glue and superglue I was able to achieve that 3D shape. After that it's just a matter of coating everything, depending on the material used to finish your part before being able to make a mould. I've used Epoxy laminating resin here, but you could use some specialized coating resins as well. After that it's just a matter of sanding everything with 80 grid sanding paper inbetween the coats untill your happy with the result of your shape and most voids are filled. I've finished the part with a 2K clear coat to have a decent high gloss finish I was happy with. Keep in mind that your silicone mould will have exactly the same finish as your part you are casting. meaning every scratch, dent, void will be visible in your mould so visible in your casted parts. So it's a good thing to get your mother mould perfect to cast perfect parts instead of having to retouch every part that comes out of your mould. Like I said in the video I've used an mdf board to raise the part from the bottom plate to allow excess resin to stay in the silicone mould instead of it dripping out. The mistake I've made was using mdf that is a porous wood composite. Meaning the silicone soaked in to the mdf making it harder to demould. A good solution to fix this would be sealing the wood with varnish or epoxy or simply use another material that is non-porous. I then used the silicone from easy composites CS2 (you can find data-sheets on their website if needed). Mixing ratio's are 100:10 meaning 1kg of part A will require 100grams of part B. Then your thoroughly mix the resin using a mixingtool or by hand depending on the amount you are making. I've decide to colour the silicone red with pigments to have a better view of how mush resin was casted when casting. If you are looking for the best results possible it's needed to degass the silicone in a vacuum-chamber with a decent vacuumpump to remove any excess air or bubbles in the silicone. Keep in mind that the silicone mixture might raise up to 10 times before collapsing so make sure you use a big bucket or pot to degass your silicone. Then it's just a matter of pouring the silicone in your pre-maid mould cavity and wait for it to cure. After demoulding your silicone you will be able to cast many parts out of your mould with different finishes you desire. You could use some translucent pigments or full colour pigments. You could also use additives like metal flakes, gold flakes...the choices are up to you to be creative. I've used some Epoxy infusion resins IN2 from easy composites for the translucent black part and P6 polyurethane with black tint for the first one. You can also find all the products on the Easycomposites Website.
More casting video's will follow. focusing more on cheaper moulds, faster mouldings, variations in casting resins.
Hope you liked the video and don't forget to give the video a like/share/comment and subscribe!
Materials used are from Easy Composites and can all be found on their website easycomposites.co.uk
Make sure to follow me on instagram as well for daily pictures!
Instagram: @matthieulibeert
Facebook: facebook.com/MAT2COMPOSITES
Website: mat2composites.com
Twitter: @matthieutje65
LinkedIn: Matthieu Libeert
How To Cast Ethereum logo (Crypto)
