Uploaded June 2015 | Updated September 2026, 3 weeks ago
This topic has already been covered extensively on YouTube, and as such, I saw no reason to bother with a build video. But I do think that I have a few good ideas to offer to the making of a simple homemade table-saw, and so I decided to make this video as a spur-of-the-moment sort of thing. I am especially pleased with the fence design.
The table-saw:
This was made quickly and without too much thought; I did not look at any videos or designs from others first, because I wanted to keep it as simple as possible. I know from experience that the more I think on a subject, the more I tend to add to and develop to the original ideas, which can quickly start to burden (what was) a simple plan. As an aside, I was out of 2x4 when I made this, so I had to make the main support beams shorter than I would have preferred. I may replace them to add length to the right side of the saw table, or just build another- I haven't yet decided. In either case, the saw is limited to cuts under 6 inches, and that will work for now, but that's far too small for the homemade table-saw show.
The fence:
I did look at several of the designs out there for these before I built it. Without mentioning any names, there have been some nice approaches to this (rather difficult) problem out there, but none of them quite seemed to nail the right balance of ease, simplicity, and functionality. I had also considered making an upside-down "French cleat" styled friction lock as backup plan A, and backup plan B was to simply mount a permanent Harbor Freight clamp (that was cut in half and recessed inside) to the operator's side of the fence. As it turned out, the final product has exceeded my expectations, which justified making this into an impromptu video about the thing.
ZIP-TIES:
No, I do not want to use zip-ties to hold the trigger on. The last thing that I want is a power-saw that turns on whenever it is plugged in. That goofy-shaped stick makes it abundantly clear that the device is on, but it can be quickly yanked out without having to cut and replace anything. Further, an additional switch adds complexity with little advantage. Add one if you prefer, but I see little benefit. Keep in mind that this is supposed to be a secondary saw; you need to know when to stop "improving" things, especially since "improvements" always add weight, and in this case, cords. All that being said, I think that if I were to be using this for an extended period of time, I still might plug it into a power strip temporarily for the switch, but I would certainly not consider doing so as essential.
This topic has already been covered extensively on YouTube, and as such, I saw no reason to bother with a build video. But I do think that I have a few good ideas to offer to the making of a simple homemade table-saw, and so I decided to make this video as a spur-of-the-moment sort of thing. I am especially pleased with the fence design.
The table-saw:
This was made quickly and without too much thought; I did not look at any videos or designs from others first, because I wanted to keep it as simple as possible. I know from experience that the more I think on a subject, the more I tend to add to and develop to the original ideas, which can quickly start to burden (what was) a simple plan. As an aside, I was out of 2x4 when I made this, so I had to make the main support beams shorter than I would have preferred. I may replace them to add length to the right side of the saw table, or just build another- I haven't yet decided. In either case, the saw is limited to cuts under 6 inches, and that will work for now, but that's far too small for the homemade table-saw show.
The fence:
I did look at several of the designs out there for these before I built it. Without mentioning any names, there have been some nice approaches to this (rather difficult) problem out there, but none of them quite seemed to nail the right balance of ease, simplicity, and functionality. I had also considered making an upside-down "French cleat" styled friction lock as backup plan A, and backup plan B was to simply mount a permanent Harbor Freight clamp (that was cut in half and recessed inside) to the operator's side of the fence. As it turned out, the final product has exceeded my expectations, which justified making this into an impromptu video about the thing.
ZIP-TIES:
No, I do not want to use zip-ties to hold the trigger on. The last thing that I want is a power-saw that turns on whenever it is plugged in. That goofy-shaped stick makes it abundantly clear that the device is on, but it can be quickly yanked out without having to cut and replace anything. Further, an additional switch adds complexity with little advantage. Add one if you prefer, but I see little benefit. Keep in mind that this is supposed to be a secondary saw; you need to know when to stop "improving" things, especially since "improvements" always add weight, and in this case, cords. All that being said, I think that if I were to be using this for an extended period of time, I still might plug it into a power strip temporarily for the switch, but I would certainly not consider doing so as essential.





![How to cut crown molding angles flat (& adding rope lighting)
Crown molding can be cut easily (and far more accurately) while laying flat. Heres a cheat-sheet for FLAT cutting standard 52°/38° crown; these numbers are already marked on most saws:
Cove up (more on the ceiling)~
38.24° miter
25.81° bevel
Cove down (more on the wall)~
31.62° miter
33.86° bevel
[Original description]:
Just a quick look at how you can cut crown mould the easy way. I also show a simple way that you can jazz it up with some mood lighting. Chicks love it.
Post 1/4 million view mandatory description revision:
READ. Because Im just going to start removing deliberately provocative comments that are not constructive. Lots of arguments about how theres only one right way to hang crown mold on this one, and I, being obstinate, accept the challenge. If you are feeling the compulsion to lay the argumentative smack-down on me, dont. Evidence is not in your favor. My defense goes something like this: Crown moulding orientation is governed by a set of arbitrary cultural conventions, and as such, the rules and regulation of its application are superseded by the following statement: form follows function.
As a person who is competent with respect to design (but not as an authority), I am in possession of the necessary tools to apply my own discretion to its installation. Now youre probably thinking, thats a bunch of commie liberal bullshit. I been puttin up crown for thirty years, and you may be at least partially correct- but there is still no empirically sound reason that I should have to install it one way or the other. You see, the shape that our present big-box-store crown mouldings design reflects is one of a simplification of various design elements that were found throughout various cultures of the past; it is a mish-mash. It is a cherry-picked collection that reflects only the design of a product that is engineered to sell in heaping quantities. It is selling you the ideas of sophistication, class, and refined taste- in every single lower middle-class vinyl-coated suburban dwelling in America. Reject your cultural quagmire, and learn to evaluate aesthetics for yourself.
I can go on with this if youd like: I can give you the spiel on proportion and its relationship to our crowns dimensions, how aesthetically appealing it is in this case mathematically, and how that has been modified by the placement of the mounted support trim-board, because the placement of the profiles details no longer appear to be in the same position, but why? Already most of you think that I am pretentious and arrogant, and youre probably right, considering that I openly admit having to dumb-down my content just to communicate with the majority of you. But I have heard every insult in the book by now, and its become tiresome, so why not just be honest? Hey, if you would still like to argue this point, at least use complete sentences. Theyre so much easier on my eyes.
In closing: inform yourself, and then decide. But in the process of doing so, spare me (and others) your misinformed tirades in defense of current traditions, which, of course, are maintained by irrational adherence to the old- and not by supporting evidence. Its simply not just upside-down. How to cut crown molding angles flat (& adding rope lighting)](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eceGrmtL-zg/mqdefault.jpg)




