Uploaded November 2023 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
We talk to Professor Martin Burtscher of the University of Innsbruck about pre-acclimatization for mountaineering objectives. He tells us if he thinks normabaric hypoxic generators work to prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), HAPE and HACE.
He tells us about the optimal hours to use them and how long we can take a break from real hypobaric or simulated altitude and retain acclimatization benefits.
Use our Amazon affiliate link #ad to monitor your heart rate, blood oxygen percent, and air oxygen % using a generator.
Zacurate Pro Series 500DL Fingertip Pulse Oximeter Blood Oxygen Saturation Monitor with Silicone Cover, Batteries and Lanyard (Royal Black)
amzn.to/3MuYLam
Seesii Portable 4 Gas Detector, Rechargeable Multi Gas Monitor Air Quality Tester Analyzer, High Precision Sound Light Vibration Alarm Backlight LCD Display EX O2 H2S CO 4 in 1 Gas Meter%LEL PPM
amzn.to/3uoZ0xn
It helps to track O2 % levels coming out of the mask or in your tent to make sure you are at the desired simulated altitude.
Your blood ox % should fall while in the tent or on the mask and your pulse rate should rise. Pulse ox meters are key to measuring the effectiveness of simulated altitude training.
Acclimatization stimulates the production of red blood cells and reduces the risks of developing symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) on your ascent of a high to extreme altitude peak. AMS symptoms are headache, nausea, shortness of breath, difficulty breathing, and dizziness. More sever AMS are high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) which can be life threatening if the climber cannot descend quickly.
Two studies we liked were
Martin Burtscher, Urs Hefti, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, "High-altitude illnesses: Old stories and new insights into the pathophysiology, treatment and prevention" Sports Med Health Sci
. 2021 Apr 16;3(2):59-69. doi: 10.1016/j.smhs.2021.04.001.
Burtscher, M., Millet, G.P. & Burtscher, J. Hypoxia Conditioning for High-Altitude Pre-acclimatization. J. of SCI. IN SPORT AND EXERCISE 4, 331–345 (2022). doi.org/10.1007/s42978-021-00150-
You can e-mail Professor Burtscher at Martin.Burtscher@uibk.ac.at with questions.
See our videos:
Killian Jornet's Hypoxic Generator Pre-Acclimatization to Climb Everest in Record Time
youtu.be/qC8JRiW2To8?si=jCT8E_jy4qnpLjbc
Hypoxic Generator Pre-Acclimatization for High Altitude Mountaineering with the Jay-10H by Longfian
youtu.be/xrWuix3DZ-Q?si=DbW0LnL3IwWQHj4a
Mt. Kilimanjaro Summit on the Northern Circuit Route, Part 3, Days 7, 8, and 9
youtu.be/FbKkT04LPks?si=gXY48rbkQlBvyLnh
TIPS to HIGH POINT Mt. Elbert the Top of Colorado and the Rockies, 14,440'
youtu.be/w-CZ0eT8LII
SECRETS to Summit WHEELER PEAK, High Point of New Mexico, 13,161'
youtu.be/mqe17AvObug
Guadalupe Peak, TX High Point, 8,751 feet, 8.4 to 10.3 mile hike to the Top of Texas
youtu.be/K2qfrb0Eaxw
BEST HIGH WIND Winter Tent? Pitching the Kuiu Storm Star 2P 4-Season Tent with First Impressions
youtu.be/lMx8ykRO2x0
The Seven (NINE) Summits Ranking By Difficulty & Cost, Highest Mountains on 7 (6 or 8) Continents
youtu.be/7SDS--49pck
Pitching ALPS Mountaineering Tasmanian 2-Person, 4-Season Tent, Impressions
youtu.be/HLky8Bb8COg
Guided Trips PROBABLY Won't Get YOU to the Summit of Big Mountains, Aconcaugua, Pico de Orizaba
youtu.be/kxW0MMf5kxA
HAPE on the Summit of Pico de Orizaba 18,491 feet, the Highest Mountain in Mexico, AMS
youtu.be/TGAR4-Urt2M
TIps to Climb Mt. Kosciuszko in Winter, Highest Peak in Australia, One of the 7 Summits, July 2022
youtu.be/RJ9hCB34T9M
Get Linus Wilson’s bestselling sailing books:
Slow Boat to the Bahamas at
amazon.com/dp/B018OUI1Q2
on Audible at
https://www.audible.com/pd/B07N7QFNJR...
Slow Boat to Cuba
amazon.com/dp/B01MFFX9AG
gumroad.com/l/cubabook
and How to Sail Around the World-Part Time
amazon.com/dp/B01B0OFYNW
gumroad.com/l/sailing
See also
COVID Road Trip: An RV Adventure
amazon.com/COVID-Road-Trip-RV-Adventure/dp/B098GL3XNC
have been #1 sailing ebook bestsellers on Amazon.
You can get the full audiobook of Sailing to Treasure Island by Captain John C. Voss. at
Patreon.com/slowboatsailing
Sign up for our free newsletter for access to free books and other promotions at slowboatsailing.com
Support the videos at
Patreon.com/slowboatsailing
Associate Producer Rick Moore (SSL)
Sign up for our free newsletter for access to free books and other promotions at slowboatsailing.com
Copyright Linus Wilson, Oxriver Publishing, Vermilion Advisory Services, LLC, 2023
We talk to Professor Martin Burtscher of the University of Innsbruck about pre-acclimatization for mountaineering objectives. He tells us if he thinks normabaric hypoxic generators work to prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), HAPE and HACE.
He tells us about the optimal hours to use them and how long we can take a break from real hypobaric or simulated altitude and retain acclimatization benefits.
Use our Amazon affiliate link #ad to monitor your heart rate, blood oxygen percent, and air oxygen % using a generator.
Zacurate Pro Series 500DL Fingertip Pulse Oximeter Blood Oxygen Saturation Monitor with Silicone Cover, Batteries and Lanyard (Royal Black)
amzn.to/3MuYLam
Seesii Portable 4 Gas Detector, Rechargeable Multi Gas Monitor Air Quality Tester Analyzer, High Precision Sound Light Vibration Alarm Backlight LCD Display EX O2 H2S CO 4 in 1 Gas Meter%LEL PPM
amzn.to/3uoZ0xn
It helps to track O2 % levels coming out of the mask or in your tent to make sure you are at the desired simulated altitude.
Your blood ox % should fall while in the tent or on the mask and your pulse rate should rise. Pulse ox meters are key to measuring the effectiveness of simulated altitude training.
Acclimatization stimulates the production of red blood cells and reduces the risks of developing symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) on your ascent of a high to extreme altitude peak. AMS symptoms are headache, nausea, shortness of breath, difficulty breathing, and dizziness. More sever AMS are high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) which can be life threatening if the climber cannot descend quickly.
Two studies we liked were
Martin Burtscher, Urs Hefti, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, "High-altitude illnesses: Old stories and new insights into the pathophysiology, treatment and prevention" Sports Med Health Sci
. 2021 Apr 16;3(2):59-69. doi: 10.1016/j.smhs.2021.04.001.
Burtscher, M., Millet, G.P. & Burtscher, J. Hypoxia Conditioning for High-Altitude Pre-acclimatization. J. of SCI. IN SPORT AND EXERCISE 4, 331–345 (2022). doi.org/10.1007/s42978-021-00150-
You can e-mail Professor Burtscher at Martin.Burtscher@uibk.ac.at with questions.
See our videos:
Killian Jornet's Hypoxic Generator Pre-Acclimatization to Climb Everest in Record Time
youtu.be/qC8JRiW2To8?si=jCT8E_jy4qnpLjbc
Hypoxic Generator Pre-Acclimatization for High Altitude Mountaineering with the Jay-10H by Longfian
youtu.be/xrWuix3DZ-Q?si=DbW0LnL3IwWQHj4a
Mt. Kilimanjaro Summit on the Northern Circuit Route, Part 3, Days 7, 8, and 9
youtu.be/FbKkT04LPks?si=gXY48rbkQlBvyLnh
TIPS to HIGH POINT Mt. Elbert the Top of Colorado and the Rockies, 14,440'
youtu.be/w-CZ0eT8LII
SECRETS to Summit WHEELER PEAK, High Point of New Mexico, 13,161'
youtu.be/mqe17AvObug
Guadalupe Peak, TX High Point, 8,751 feet, 8.4 to 10.3 mile hike to the Top of Texas
youtu.be/K2qfrb0Eaxw
BEST HIGH WIND Winter Tent? Pitching the Kuiu Storm Star 2P 4-Season Tent with First Impressions
youtu.be/lMx8ykRO2x0
The Seven (NINE) Summits Ranking By Difficulty & Cost, Highest Mountains on 7 (6 or 8) Continents
youtu.be/7SDS--49pck
Pitching ALPS Mountaineering Tasmanian 2-Person, 4-Season Tent, Impressions
youtu.be/HLky8Bb8COg
Guided Trips PROBABLY Won't Get YOU to the Summit of Big Mountains, Aconcaugua, Pico de Orizaba
youtu.be/kxW0MMf5kxA
HAPE on the Summit of Pico de Orizaba 18,491 feet, the Highest Mountain in Mexico, AMS
youtu.be/TGAR4-Urt2M
TIps to Climb Mt. Kosciuszko in Winter, Highest Peak in Australia, One of the 7 Summits, July 2022
youtu.be/RJ9hCB34T9M
Get Linus Wilson’s bestselling sailing books:
Slow Boat to the Bahamas at
amazon.com/dp/B018OUI1Q2
on Audible at
https://www.audible.com/pd/B07N7QFNJR...
Slow Boat to Cuba
amazon.com/dp/B01MFFX9AG
gumroad.com/l/cubabook
and How to Sail Around the World-Part Time
amazon.com/dp/B01B0OFYNW
gumroad.com/l/sailing
See also
COVID Road Trip: An RV Adventure
amazon.com/COVID-Road-Trip-RV-Adventure/dp/B098GL3XNC
have been #1 sailing ebook bestsellers on Amazon.
You can get the full audiobook of Sailing to Treasure Island by Captain John C. Voss. at
Patreon.com/slowboatsailing
Sign up for our free newsletter for access to free books and other promotions at slowboatsailing.com
Support the videos at
Patreon.com/slowboatsailing
Associate Producer Rick Moore (SSL)
Sign up for our free newsletter for access to free books and other promotions at slowboatsailing.com
Copyright Linus Wilson, Oxriver Publishing, Vermilion Advisory Services, LLC, 2023
