Sara Dhooma | Day 4- Dientes de Navarino | Slippery Steep Mud towards Virginia Pass, Skiing Down Scree, & Pizza @SaraDhooma | Uploaded March 2020 | Updated October 2024, 17 hours ago.
Day 4 - hiking the ‘Dientes de Navarino’ trek
Tenting in the trees was very smart to avoid the wind. As darkness fell, a solo Chilean gal named Jessica joined our tents. I wasn’t quite sure where she had come from, and where her friends were!
We hiked through boggy beaver-flooded grassland toward the foot of Virginia Pass. The first part was arduous and very slick with mud. It went almost straight vertical up the mountainside- and was impossible to climb without grabbing onto tree roots and branches.
The next section of the trail took us higher up on rocky switchbacks. The wind picked up and it was difficult to proceed forward. Towards the top the ascent became gradual in a huge, empty area that looked like an alien planet. My eyes strained to pick out the distant rock cairns loosely marking the route.
Virginia Pass has a gorgeous view of the blue lake below. The cold wind was relentless so I paused only for a few short photos. My hands had started to freeze and I needed to keep moving.
Immediately after the pass, the trail was crumbled and became steep, slippery bare rock covered with thin loose sand. The wind was also pushing me towards the falling over the edge. I was pretty frightened as I inched myself down on the tough scramble. I did not film this section or take photographs because I was too focused on safely getting through.
Then the fun began when the terrain changed. Jessica caught up to me and showed me how to safety ‘scree ski’ down the deep, thick sand peppered with rolling rocks. I was flying down the mountain super fast! I had vague memories of doing the same thing on Mount Kilimanjaro. It was a blast!
After ‘scree skiing’ down Virginia Pass the trail skirted around the lake. A tenting area with a viewing platform was set up on the far side. It was our intended stop for the night. The area was exposed to the wind - and heavy rain was forecast the next day.
.
Ricardo and I made the decision to push to town and end our trekking circuit one day earlier than expected. Raul decided to stay and tent with Jessica.
The final stage is notorious for hikers becoming lost. There are no trail markers and route is difficult to follow. I was sinking up to my thighs in beaver-flooded grassland and constantly wading through thick mud. The forest was a mess of jumbled fallen trees. Progress for Ricardo and I was very slow going. Stopping was not an option because there was no flat, dry ground to accommodate a tent.
.
Ricardo and I tried to keep out spirits up by laughing through the misery. I fell down three times - and badly bent a trekking pole.
.
Eventually, we saw the Beagle Channel with Puerto Williams in the distance. Even in the open environment, trail-finding was difficult due to criss-crossing cow and horse paths. Eventually we gave up trying to find the designated way and bushwhacked directly down towards the ocean. Then a 7-km road walk to town. Photo taken at the terminus!
I checked into my hostel and decided food was more important than showering. Time for pizza, a king crab empanada and a big rhubarb beer.
Day 4 - hiking the ‘Dientes de Navarino’ trek
Tenting in the trees was very smart to avoid the wind. As darkness fell, a solo Chilean gal named Jessica joined our tents. I wasn’t quite sure where she had come from, and where her friends were!
We hiked through boggy beaver-flooded grassland toward the foot of Virginia Pass. The first part was arduous and very slick with mud. It went almost straight vertical up the mountainside- and was impossible to climb without grabbing onto tree roots and branches.
The next section of the trail took us higher up on rocky switchbacks. The wind picked up and it was difficult to proceed forward. Towards the top the ascent became gradual in a huge, empty area that looked like an alien planet. My eyes strained to pick out the distant rock cairns loosely marking the route.
Virginia Pass has a gorgeous view of the blue lake below. The cold wind was relentless so I paused only for a few short photos. My hands had started to freeze and I needed to keep moving.
Immediately after the pass, the trail was crumbled and became steep, slippery bare rock covered with thin loose sand. The wind was also pushing me towards the falling over the edge. I was pretty frightened as I inched myself down on the tough scramble. I did not film this section or take photographs because I was too focused on safely getting through.
Then the fun began when the terrain changed. Jessica caught up to me and showed me how to safety ‘scree ski’ down the deep, thick sand peppered with rolling rocks. I was flying down the mountain super fast! I had vague memories of doing the same thing on Mount Kilimanjaro. It was a blast!
After ‘scree skiing’ down Virginia Pass the trail skirted around the lake. A tenting area with a viewing platform was set up on the far side. It was our intended stop for the night. The area was exposed to the wind - and heavy rain was forecast the next day.
.
Ricardo and I made the decision to push to town and end our trekking circuit one day earlier than expected. Raul decided to stay and tent with Jessica.
The final stage is notorious for hikers becoming lost. There are no trail markers and route is difficult to follow. I was sinking up to my thighs in beaver-flooded grassland and constantly wading through thick mud. The forest was a mess of jumbled fallen trees. Progress for Ricardo and I was very slow going. Stopping was not an option because there was no flat, dry ground to accommodate a tent.
.
Ricardo and I tried to keep out spirits up by laughing through the misery. I fell down three times - and badly bent a trekking pole.
.
Eventually, we saw the Beagle Channel with Puerto Williams in the distance. Even in the open environment, trail-finding was difficult due to criss-crossing cow and horse paths. Eventually we gave up trying to find the designated way and bushwhacked directly down towards the ocean. Then a 7-km road walk to town. Photo taken at the terminus!
I checked into my hostel and decided food was more important than showering. Time for pizza, a king crab empanada and a big rhubarb beer.
