Uploaded August 2021 | Updated September 2026, 1 day ago
Detailed Class on Carabiners. You will learn why there are so many different Shapes / Sizes & Styles of the Carabiners. How to choose & use them Safely and all the ways a Carabiner could Fail on loads lower than what they are rated for (kN on the spine of the Carabiner) and how to avoid that.
β© NEXT:
youtu.be/0gWOiqPAZDw
βͺ PREVIOUS:
youtu.be/hEK2NCoET4E
π FULL PLAYLIST:
youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5FEOhiQGSo8PBwTZPeiwQGcxQ0xB99Gt
00:00 Intro
00:44 Aluminium Alloy
01:34 Steel
01:54 Hot-Forged
02:48 Shapes - Oval vs D
03:55 Shapes - HMS (Pear)
05:08 Shapes - Belay carabiners
06:52 Shapes - QuickLink
07:43 Gate - Non-Locking
08:59 Gate - How to Correctly use 2 non-locking carabiners?
10:22 Gate - Screw gate
11:17 Gate - Auto-Locking
13:24 Size - Is smaller better?
14:57 Strength - What matters in real world?
18:08 Strength - Can you break Cross-Loaded carabiner?
19:44 Strength - Nose Hook - Dangerous!
20:59 Strength - Carabiner bent over the edge
22:10 Strength - Triload
24:08 When to Retire your carabiner?
25:43 Microfractures - Can you Drop your carabiner?
27:20 Bonus question
οΏ½ Choosing Guide for Beginners
For bolted single pitch climbing:
1x Belay Device Carabiner:
Mammut Bionic Cross Lock - bit.ly/3AagrPT
Mammut Smart HMS - bit.ly/3AdgcmS
Black Diamond Grid Lock
EDELRID HMS Bulletproof
1-2x small size, D shape, autolocker or screw gate for Tether / Lanyard or other use cases (having multifunctional carabiners is always handy):
Nordwand Micro Lock: bit.ly/37m9zSQ
The fastests screw gate I've ever tried, but most of them work fine, so choose whatever is pretty to you.
For bolted multipitches you might want to add:
2x small, D shape screw gate for connecting anchor to bolts:
Nordwand Micro Lock: bit.ly/37m9zSQ
1x bigger, screw or autolocker for Master point:
Workhorse HMS: bit.ly/3jmlNRh
* Above links might be affiliate and give me small benefit.
β€ If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me
hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and allows me to do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
β€ Special Thanks For Mammut for helping me to create this episode!
οΏ½ Additional resources:
Corrosion in Climbing Carabiners rockclimbingcompany.blogspot.com/2009/09/corrosion-in-climbing-carabiners.html
Forces at work in a real fall
petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/Forces-at-work-in-a-real-fall?ActivityName=Rock-climbing
Black Diamond QC LAB: WEAKNESS OF NOSE-HOOKED CARABINERS
blackdiamondequipment.com/en_ES/stories/experience-story-qc-lab-weakness-of-nosehooked-carabiners
DMM Nose Hooked tests
dmmwales.com/knowledge/may-2015/carabiner-and-bolt-interaction
Detailed Class on Carabiners. You will learn why there are so many different Shapes / Sizes & Styles of the Carabiners. How to choose & use them Safely and all the ways a Carabiner could Fail on loads lower than what they are rated for (kN on the spine of the Carabiner) and how to avoid that.
β© NEXT:
youtu.be/0gWOiqPAZDw
βͺ PREVIOUS:
youtu.be/hEK2NCoET4E
π FULL PLAYLIST:
youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5FEOhiQGSo8PBwTZPeiwQGcxQ0xB99Gt
00:00 Intro
00:44 Aluminium Alloy
01:34 Steel
01:54 Hot-Forged
02:48 Shapes - Oval vs D
03:55 Shapes - HMS (Pear)
05:08 Shapes - Belay carabiners
06:52 Shapes - QuickLink
07:43 Gate - Non-Locking
08:59 Gate - How to Correctly use 2 non-locking carabiners?
10:22 Gate - Screw gate
11:17 Gate - Auto-Locking
13:24 Size - Is smaller better?
14:57 Strength - What matters in real world?
18:08 Strength - Can you break Cross-Loaded carabiner?
19:44 Strength - Nose Hook - Dangerous!
20:59 Strength - Carabiner bent over the edge
22:10 Strength - Triload
24:08 When to Retire your carabiner?
25:43 Microfractures - Can you Drop your carabiner?
27:20 Bonus question
οΏ½ Choosing Guide for Beginners
For bolted single pitch climbing:
1x Belay Device Carabiner:
Mammut Bionic Cross Lock - bit.ly/3AagrPT
Mammut Smart HMS - bit.ly/3AdgcmS
Black Diamond Grid Lock
EDELRID HMS Bulletproof
1-2x small size, D shape, autolocker or screw gate for Tether / Lanyard or other use cases (having multifunctional carabiners is always handy):
Nordwand Micro Lock: bit.ly/37m9zSQ
The fastests screw gate I've ever tried, but most of them work fine, so choose whatever is pretty to you.
For bolted multipitches you might want to add:
2x small, D shape screw gate for connecting anchor to bolts:
Nordwand Micro Lock: bit.ly/37m9zSQ
1x bigger, screw or autolocker for Master point:
Workhorse HMS: bit.ly/3jmlNRh
* Above links might be affiliate and give me small benefit.
β€ If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me
hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and allows me to do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
β€ Special Thanks For Mammut for helping me to create this episode!
οΏ½ Additional resources:
Corrosion in Climbing Carabiners rockclimbingcompany.blogspot.com/2009/09/corrosion-in-climbing-carabiners.html
Forces at work in a real fall
petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/Forces-at-work-in-a-real-fall?ActivityName=Rock-climbing
Black Diamond QC LAB: WEAKNESS OF NOSE-HOOKED CARABINERS
blackdiamondequipment.com/en_ES/stories/experience-story-qc-lab-weakness-of-nosehooked-carabiners
DMM Nose Hooked tests
dmmwales.com/knowledge/may-2015/carabiner-and-bolt-interaction
