Uploaded February 2024 | Updated September 2026, 3 days ago
If you’ve ever been to the Wave Cave in the Superstition Mountains you’ve undoubtedly seen the large rock spires above it called the “Three Sisters”. I’ve hiked to the top of them and although I’m definitely not the world’s best rock climber I have often dreamed of scaling up the side of them. Thankfully for me my good friend and solid climber Matt allowed me to twist his arm and agreed to have a go at one of the more reasonably rated routes “Norton’s Notion”. This is a “Trad” route meaning climbers protect themselves with removable stoppers/nuts and Cams. This route is rated 5.7 R. This is an accessible grade but due to the poor quality of rock (loose/brittle) it gets the “R” rating. I have to say I absolutely agree with the rating. Fun climbing but not the world’s best quality rock.
Description:
(info pulled from Mountain Project)
Norton's Notion is an enjoyable and semi-protectable climb that is straightforward and easy to stay on route. Whoever Norton is/was his vision for the line is a nice addition to the area. The route can be done in three pitches to five pitches depending on where you choose to belay, there are several comfy ledges to stop along the way.
Pitch one can be climbed using two bolts or soloed just to the left by several yards. Either variation is easy, one is tad bit safer.
Pitch two can be linked with three. Enter short, quick crack that leads to wide, chimney like climbing. Continue past obvious belay ledge and climb somewhat grungy crack with mini-roof to another spacious ledge. This feels like the crux of the entire climb but decent face holds keeps things civilized.
Pitch four and five can be linked and both have quality rock and ample protection. Cross the chasm and continue up steep crack that will eventually trend behind the main formation. Stay in crack to its end, a neat roof will be passed on climbers left just before the great belay ledge.
Pitch six wanders up a tad before turning a corner and entering an easy chimney system. Climb chimney to exit above and scramble easy rock too obvious highpoint (not the true summit of the wall). We did a very short rap/handline to get off this highpoint and to the rap stations of De Grazia.
Location:
Follow the obscene, pointless, careless, idiotic white arrows or the obnoxious, loud, flavorfully dressed crowds as they grunt their way to the over-popular, over-photographed, over-hyped Wave Cave. At the urine-soaked, littered, "get your Instagram photo" Wave Cave entrance head to the right and follow path to base of wall. Less than one hour from vehicle to base of wall.
Protection Suggest change
Nuts, cams to number 4.
Climb on!
If you’ve ever been to the Wave Cave in the Superstition Mountains you’ve undoubtedly seen the large rock spires above it called the “Three Sisters”. I’ve hiked to the top of them and although I’m definitely not the world’s best rock climber I have often dreamed of scaling up the side of them. Thankfully for me my good friend and solid climber Matt allowed me to twist his arm and agreed to have a go at one of the more reasonably rated routes “Norton’s Notion”. This is a “Trad” route meaning climbers protect themselves with removable stoppers/nuts and Cams. This route is rated 5.7 R. This is an accessible grade but due to the poor quality of rock (loose/brittle) it gets the “R” rating. I have to say I absolutely agree with the rating. Fun climbing but not the world’s best quality rock.
Description:
(info pulled from Mountain Project)
Norton's Notion is an enjoyable and semi-protectable climb that is straightforward and easy to stay on route. Whoever Norton is/was his vision for the line is a nice addition to the area. The route can be done in three pitches to five pitches depending on where you choose to belay, there are several comfy ledges to stop along the way.
Pitch one can be climbed using two bolts or soloed just to the left by several yards. Either variation is easy, one is tad bit safer.
Pitch two can be linked with three. Enter short, quick crack that leads to wide, chimney like climbing. Continue past obvious belay ledge and climb somewhat grungy crack with mini-roof to another spacious ledge. This feels like the crux of the entire climb but decent face holds keeps things civilized.
Pitch four and five can be linked and both have quality rock and ample protection. Cross the chasm and continue up steep crack that will eventually trend behind the main formation. Stay in crack to its end, a neat roof will be passed on climbers left just before the great belay ledge.
Pitch six wanders up a tad before turning a corner and entering an easy chimney system. Climb chimney to exit above and scramble easy rock too obvious highpoint (not the true summit of the wall). We did a very short rap/handline to get off this highpoint and to the rap stations of De Grazia.
Location:
Follow the obscene, pointless, careless, idiotic white arrows or the obnoxious, loud, flavorfully dressed crowds as they grunt their way to the over-popular, over-photographed, over-hyped Wave Cave. At the urine-soaked, littered, "get your Instagram photo" Wave Cave entrance head to the right and follow path to base of wall. Less than one hour from vehicle to base of wall.
Protection Suggest change
Nuts, cams to number 4.
Climb on!
