Uploaded October 2020 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
How to make a silicone blanket mold for 3D printed objects. Using Rapidset hardener to speed up the cure process when brushing on layers of rubber. Also, using cast pieces of rubber to build out the blanket mold. Finally, how thick should a blanket mold be?
SKIP AHEAD TO THE GOOD PARTS:
00:00 Project sent in by Randal from the Fay Jones School of Architecture + Design.
01:00 Rotational molding doesn’t like sharp edges and corners. Lot’s of potential bubbles!
02:24 Cleaning up the printing flaws with Magic Sculpt.
05:08 Testing Bondo for compatibility with the silicone rubber and printing plastic.
08:34 Smoothing surfaces with the Bondo body filler.
09:45 Planning out the cut lines in the blanket mold.
10:56 Why I’m not using a two-part clayed up mold.
12:10 Making the form for the rubber parting lines using a paper pattern.
14:05 Building a form using oil clay.
16:33 Using a BACOENG 3-gallon vacuum system.
18:11 Pouring the rubber in the clay form and removing the cured rubber.
19:34 Using Rapidset hardener to accelerate the curing time of the rubber.
21:25 Brushing the print coat of rubber in the model.
22:37 Casting the pour spout in urethane resin.
23:10 Attaching the pour spout to the model using wax.
24:20 Finishing the print coat and attaching the parting line rubber pieces.
29:22 Why I wouldn’t use this method on a client job. Time vs materials.
30:09 How thick should the blanket mold be?
32:03 Next week we’ll make the shell in fiberglass.
32:22 Send in your projects, comments and questions! Thanks for watching!
How to make a silicone blanket mold for 3D printed objects. Using Rapidset hardener to speed up the cure process when brushing on layers of rubber. Also, using cast pieces of rubber to build out the blanket mold. Finally, how thick should a blanket mold be?
SKIP AHEAD TO THE GOOD PARTS:
00:00 Project sent in by Randal from the Fay Jones School of Architecture + Design.
01:00 Rotational molding doesn’t like sharp edges and corners. Lot’s of potential bubbles!
02:24 Cleaning up the printing flaws with Magic Sculpt.
05:08 Testing Bondo for compatibility with the silicone rubber and printing plastic.
08:34 Smoothing surfaces with the Bondo body filler.
09:45 Planning out the cut lines in the blanket mold.
10:56 Why I’m not using a two-part clayed up mold.
12:10 Making the form for the rubber parting lines using a paper pattern.
14:05 Building a form using oil clay.
16:33 Using a BACOENG 3-gallon vacuum system.
18:11 Pouring the rubber in the clay form and removing the cured rubber.
19:34 Using Rapidset hardener to accelerate the curing time of the rubber.
21:25 Brushing the print coat of rubber in the model.
22:37 Casting the pour spout in urethane resin.
23:10 Attaching the pour spout to the model using wax.
24:20 Finishing the print coat and attaching the parting line rubber pieces.
29:22 Why I wouldn’t use this method on a client job. Time vs materials.
30:09 How thick should the blanket mold be?
32:03 Next week we’ll make the shell in fiberglass.
32:22 Send in your projects, comments and questions! Thanks for watching!
