House of Miss Sew
Rolled Hem (without using the rolled hemming foot)
updated
The Fleur Dress and Blouse Pattern will be available to purchase in PDF format from 4th June 2024
fabricgodmother.co.uk
The fabric used for the samples in the video is a viscose twill called 'Calypso' and it is available from Fabric Godmother.
fabricgodmother.co.uk/calypso-stripe-viscose-twill-multi
00:00 Introduction
00:46 Choosing a size
01:12 Adapting the pattern
01:43 Cup options
02:15 Transfering pattern markings
03:38 Using a Tailor’s Tack to transfer the dart tip
05:14 Applying interfacing to the placket
05:60 Applying additional interfacing for more stability
06:28 Stay stitching the bodice neckline and armholes (for the sleeveless version)
08:51 Marking and sewing the darts
12:20 Pressing and sewing the ties
16:03 Positioning and sewing the ties on the bodice
18:16 Reinforcing the ties on the right front bodice
20:25 Pressing and stitching the centre front of the right front bodice
21:28 Sewing the placket
22:40 Attaching the placket to the left front bodice
25:19 Sewing the shoulder seams
26:33 Preparing the neck binding
27:14 Attaching the neck binding
29:59 Clipping the neckline
30:42 Understitching the neck binding
32:09 Turning and stitching the neck binding
34:22 Sewing the side seams of the bodice
35:37 Preparing the armhole binding
37:05 Attaching the armhole binding
39:31 Understitching the armhole binding
41:24 Matching the centre front edges of the bodice
42:51 Preparing and attaching the pockets
55:32 Adding the gathering stitches to the skirt
59:12 Attaching the bodice to the skirt
01:06:121 Hemming the skirt
01:09:57 The Sleeved Top – Preparing the bodice for the sleeves
01:10:45 Preparing the sleeves
01:12:45 Attaching the cuff binding
01:19:01 Inserting the sleeves
01:22:59 Attaching the peplum pieces together
01:24:36 Finishing the front edges of the peplum
01:25:01 Hemming the peplum
01:26:30 Gathering the peplum
01:27:30 Attaching the peplum to the bodice
01:30:04 Hand stitching on the peplum
01:30:58 The finished blouse
01:31:15 The finished dress
Julia Hincks
www.houseofmisssew.com
Instagram @juliahincks
This technique is used when there is no centre front seam on a blouse, shirt, dress or top. The placket is added to create an opening on which you can add buttons and buttonholes.
The video shows the pattern pieces from the Sew Me Something Florence Dress Version 1.
The machine used in the video is a Janome 230DC.
This technique can also be used to add elastic to the legs of trousers.
The machine used in the video is a Janome 230DC.
The video shows the pattern pieces from the Sew Me Something Florence Dress Version 2.
The machine used in the video is a Janome 230DC.
This technique can be used to add a chain stitch hem using topstitching thread on any garment including jeans.
The machine used in the video is a Juki MCS1800 Coverstitch Machine. This takes universal needles and can be used to stitch with a range of different thread and fabric types. Refer to your manual for more details.
Miss Sew is using topstitching thread in both the needle and the looper.
Purchase a signed copy of 'The Overlocker Technique Manual' by Julia Hincks from houseofmisssew.com/product-category/books
This technique can be used to add decorative top coverstitching on any tubular item such as sleeves and trouser legs.
The machine used in the video is a Brother CV3550 which has the additional top / double coverstitch feature. This stitch can also be found on the Janome 3000 coverstitch machine and other brands / models. Refer to your manual for more details.
Purchase a signed copy of 'The Overlocker Technique Manual' by Julia Hincks from houseofmisssew.com/product-category/books
00:00 Introduction
00:40 How to attach the top cover spreader and top cover thread guide
01:58 Using the top cover stitch
02:30 How to thread the top cover thread correctly
04:00 Chaining off at the end
04:18 Altering the tension on the top cover thread
04:50 Working in the round - dealing with the bulky seam
05:34 Working in the round - starting to sew
08:52 Working in the round - how to end your stitching
10:30 Working in the round - Starting to sew - close up
12:44 Working in the round - how to end your stitching - close up
14:40 Working in the round - darning in the ends
16:14 Working in the round - the end result
This technique can be used to create hems on a range of different fabrics. It's best used on lightweight fabrics to give a beautiful finish.
The machine used in the video is a Janome 9102D, similar to the 9300DX. The settings used for this machine will be similar for any make or model of overlocker / serger. Refer to your manual for more details.
Woolly nylon is used in the upper looper to give more coverage of the raw edge and a softer finish. Regular sew all polyester thread is used in the needle and lower looper. Regular thread can be used in place of the woolly nylon.
Purchase a signed copy of 'The Overlocker Technique Manual' by Julia Hincks from houseofmisssew.com/product-category/books
The Peony Dress Pattern will be available to purchase in PDF format from 29th June.
fabricgodmother.co.uk
The fabric used for the samples in the video is a viscose linen called 'Gertie' and it is available from Fabric Godmother.
The finished dress in the video is made from an Ecovero crepe called 'Flossie' which is also available from Fabric Godmother.
00:00 Introduction
00:50 Transferring Pattern Markings
04:50 Cutting and Applying Interfacing
07:44 Stay Stitching
09:50 Marking the Darts
11:06 Sewing the Darts
13:44 Pressing the Darts
15:33 Sewing the Bodice to the Skirt
19:56 Inserting the Concealed Zip
32:44 Sewing the Shoulder Seams
33:39 Sewing the Facing
34:42 Sewing in a Garment Label
35:04 Attaching the Facing
39:43 Understitching the Facing
41:50 Attaching the Centre Back and Seams of the Facing
45:49 Hand Stitching at the Bottom of the Zip
46:16 Sewing the Side Seams
47:58 Gathering the Top of the Sleeve
49:01 Sewing the Sleeve Seam
49:45 Preparing the Sleeve Frill
53:48 Attaching the Sleeve Frill
58:32 Inserting the Sleeves
01:03:43 Preparing the Shoulder Puff
01:05:52 Inserting and attaching the Sleeve Puff
01:06:43 Finishing the Skirt Hem
01:07:06 Preparing the Hem Frill
01:08:49 Attaching the Hem Frill
01:11:11 Finishing the Dress
01:11:23 The Finished Dress
Julia Hincks
www.houseofmisssew.com
Instagram @juliahincks
This technique can be used to create hems, resulting in an almost invisible stitch. It can also be used as a decorative finish.
The machine used in the video is a Janome 9300DX. The settings used for this machine will be similar for any make or model of overlocker / serger. Refer to your manual for more details.
Purchase a signed copy of 'The Overlocker Technique Manual' by Julia Hincks from houseofmisssew.com/product-category/books
This technique can be used to create seams and to sew hems, resulting in a flat stitch.
The machine used in the video is a Janome 9300DX. The settings used for this machine will be similar for any make or model of overlocker / serger. Refer to your manual for more details.
Purchase a signed copy of 'The Overlocker Technique Manual' by Julia Hincks from houseofmisssew.com/product-category/books
I offer tips on how to make the dress without the adjustable straps and show a slightly different method to attach the binding around the neckline.
The dress is made in viscose crepe fabric exclusively produced for Dream Wardrobe subscribers at Fabric Godmother. fabricgodmother.co.uk
You can find me on Instagram at juliahincks
For a separate video on how to sew the darts please see: youtube.com/watch?v=pXwuxb4Sgi8&t=229s
For a video on how to create continuous bias binding from a small square of fabric please see:
youtu.be/rvT9qN2Cmfk
For a video on '4 Ways to Make Bias Tape' see:
youtu.be/SEYvo0ilb3c
The 'Made in Self Isewlation' labels were purchased from Modista Sewing - she can be found here:
modistasewing.wordpress.com
00:00 Introduction
00:31 Ring and Slides Set (10mm / 1cm / 3/8")
01:35 Note on the Strap Binding (E)
02:23 Transferring pattern markings
02:46 Step 1 Sewing together the Strap Binding (E)
04:39 Step 2 Preparing, folding and pressing the strap binding (E) and pieces C, D and F
05:02 4 Ways to Press and Fold Bias Binding Strips
12:33 Step 3 Preparing the Side Ties (F)
13:54 Step 4 Staystitching the neckline
14:38 Step 5 Sew and edge finish centre back seam
15:45 Steps 6 to 8 Preparing and attaching the Strap Loops (D)
17:13 Step 9 Attaching the neckline binding (C)
21:36 Step 10 Marking, sewing and pressing the darts
23:58 Step 11 Finishing and attaching the side ties
26:21 Step 12 to 14 Sew and finish side seams
26:02 Step 15 to 16 Press and stitch side slits
30:44 Attaching a centre back label
31:34 Step 17 to 18 Attaching the neckline binding (E)
38:55 Step 19 to 22 Attaching the adjustable slides
43:53 Step 23 to 25 Hemming
45:24 Step 26 Unpicking side slits
I've used the following music from the YouTube Audio Library in this video: Thank you!
Boardroom Theme - Unicorn Heads
Switch it Up - Silent Partner
Take me Down to the Fashion Show - NoMBe
Take Your Pick - Aaron Lieberman
Lightning Bugs - Geographer Sunny Side - Text Me Records
Save fabric and money with this method. The perfect way to use up your scraps to make decorative binding strips.
I use a 30cm x 30cm square of cotton fabric and cut my strips 3.5cm (1 1/2") in width.
I'm using a 'Pattern Master' Ruler to draw the lines onto the fabric and an air erasable pen.
I use a 6mm (1/4") seam allowance.
00:00 Introduction
00:21Method 1 - Fold and press the manual way
01:27 Method 2 - Use a long pin and a washable marker
03:30 Method 3 - Use 4 pins and a washable marker
04:52 Method 4 - Use a bias tape maker
See my other video for how to create continuous bias tape here:
I've used the following music from the YouTube Audio Library in this video:
Thank you!
Switch it Up - Silent Partner
The dress is made in viscose crepe fabric called 'Petula' from Fabric Godmother.
fabricgodmother.co.uk/petula-viscose-crepe-multi
I made a size 12 dress with the standard neckline and lengthened the dress by 15cm. For reference, I'm 6'2" (1.88m).
I've made a couple of changes to the pattern construction - instead of using facings, I've fully lined the yoke. To do this I cut 4 pieces of the front yoke A, and 2 pieces of the back yoke B.
I've included timestamps for the main parts of the construction. I've included the numbered steps from the main pattern instructions, where these match to my construction methods, so you can follow along from the part that you need.
00:00 Introduction
00:16 About the fabric - Petula Viscose Crepe
00:30 Pattern alterations
01:15 Steps 1- 3 Cutting out the pattern and fabric pieces
01:45 Steps 4 - 6 Transferring the markings from pattern to fabric
02:42 Steps 7 - 8 Staystitching the yokes
07:03 Step 9 Staystitching the skirt pieces
07:45 Step 10 Sewing the darts
10:38 Steps 11 - 13 Preparing the hem on the sleeves
13:28 Step 14 -15 Creating the ties
15:25 Step 16 Turning the ties to the right side using a needle and loop turner
20:44 Steps 24 - 27 Gathering the sleeves and skirt
26:43 Step 28 Sewing the shoulder seams of the yokes
27:43 Sewing the shoulder seams of the yoke lining
28:01 Step 34 Attaching the ties to the yoke
30:08 Attaching the yoke lining to the yoke
33:23 Clipping and understitching the neckline of the yoke
37:11 Steps 45 - 46 Joining the skirts to the yokes
44:27 Steps 47 - 50 Join the sleeves to the yokes and skirts
52:43 Steps 51 - 56 Hemming the skirt using a rolled hem technique
57:37 Steps 57 - 58 Sewing the side seams
59:46 Overlocking (serging) around the pockets
01:02:24 Steps 59 - 61 Finishing the sleeve hems and inserting the elastic
01:05:58 Step 62 Sewing the pocket opening
01:08:09 Step 63 - 66 Pressing the side seams and topstitching the pockets
01:10:56 Finishing the sleeve hems and joining the ends of the elastic 01:13:32 The finished dress
For a separate video on how to sew the darts please see: youtube.com/watch?v=pXwuxb4Sgi8&t=229s
For a separate video on how to create a rolled hem without a hemming foot, please see: youtube.com/watch?v=5qjjjWqErgo
I've used the following music from the YouTube Audio Library in this video:
Thank you!
Boardroom Theme - Unicorn Heads
Switch it Up - Silent Partner
Take me Down to the Fashion Show - NoMBe
Take Your Pick - Aaron Lieberman
Lightning Bugs - Geographer
Sunny Side - Text Me Records
The makeup remover pads are made using left over fabrics form previous projects: double gauze from a dress project; bamboo towelling from a dressing gown project.
Each makeup remover pad is 12cm (5 inches) in diameter.
An overlocker (serger) is used to edge finish the make up pads - you could use a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine instead.
See more videos on my YouTube channel House of Miss Sew and find tutorials and oinks to my courses at www.houseofmisssew.com
To allow the threads to be pulled through the machine, release the tension on the tension dials by lifting the presser foot. If this does not work for your machine, turn the tension dials to 0.
There's no need to purchase 4 or more cones of thread each time you need a different colour for your overlocker, serger, coverstitch or sewing machine.
This video will show you how to wind thread from large cones onto bobbins and empty spools so these can be used on any of your machines.
00:00 Introduction
00:11 Repurposing and reusing empty spools
01:12 Winding the thread from cone to empty spool
02:30 Winding the thread from cone to bobbin
This video explains how to work through steps 4 to 10 to apply the binding to the neckline, form the centre back button stands and create the buttonholes.
I'm using a double sided gingham double gauze cotton fabric and 21.5mm (1 7/8”) Grey Pearl Shell Buttons from www.fabricgodmother.com
The video doesn't show the initial construction steps where interfacing or seam tape is applied to the front and back.
I used 2cm (3/4") strips of interfacing along the lower edge of the front and back to cover the seam allowance and and then sewed through each strip to give more stability.
On the back edge I applied the interfacing to cover a 9.5cm strip at the centre back on both back pieces - this covers the whole section that forms the button stands.
You can see the interfacing on the back and the seam tape strips at 10:14
For more information on sewing darts see my video:
3 Ways to Sew a Single Point Dart
youtu.be/pXwuxb4Sgi8
00:00 Introduction
00:23 Preparing the Neck Binding (Step 4)
00:31 Folding the Button Stand (Step 5)
01:34 Applying the Neck Binding (Step 6)
03:29 Sewing on the Neck Binding
05:18 Trimming the Seam Allowance
05:32 Clipping Corners and Curves
06:11 Understitching the Neck Binding
07:59 Turn back Button Stand and Neck Binding to the wrong side (Step 7)
10:51 Topstitching the Neck Binding and Button Stands
11:45 Making the Buttonholes and Wrapping the Buttonstands (Steps 8 and 9)
13:34 Finished Dress
I'm using a half scale block to demonstrate this technique.
This is my second publication after the release of 'The Overlocker Technique Manual' / 'The Serger's Technique Bible' in 2014.
I hope that this book will be an excellent resource for any coverstitch machine owner or potential owner.
Purchase the book direct from the publishers at Search Press
searchpress.com/book/9781782218562/the-coverstitch-technique-manual
or from any other good bookshop including Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Bookshop.org, WH Smith and Hudson Booksellers
See Miss Sew's other videos for sewing a Contour Dart and a Single Point Dart
You can see my other videos on how to sew Single Point Darts and French Darts.
To transfer the markings from the pattern to the fabric, small snips and a tailor's tack are used.
See Miss Sew's other videos for sewing a Contour Dart and a French dart
00:00 Introduction to darts
00:45 Preparing the fabric
01:05 Transferring the markings using snips and a Tailor's Tack
04:04 Preparing the dart for sewing
05:05 Method 1 - Tying a knot at the tip of the dart
06:59 Pressing the darts
08:16 Method 2 - Back tacking at the dart tip
10:54 Method 3 - Using the sewing machine thread as a stitching guide
This is a type of self enclosed seam where the raw seam allowances are enclosed as the seam is created.
This technique is ideal for sheer or lightweight fabrics, linings, unlined garments such as jackets or for the seams of unlined bags.
The technique is shown using a total seam allowance of 1.5cm (15mm / 5/8") but can be done with a smaller seam allowance.
Measure, stitch and then cut!
This is a similar technique to the 'Rolled Hem without a Special Foot'
See my other hemming videos for alternative techniques.
The 'self cover button tool' or 'self cover button maker' shown in the video is available from various fabric and haberdashery (notions) retailers.
00:00 Introduction
01:14 Method 1 - Using a Self Cover Button Tool
03:10 Method 2 - Using Hand Stitches to Gather the Fabric Edge
04:36 Method 3 - Covering Metal Self Cover Buttons Without a Tool
A written tutorial can be found on my blog at houseofmisssew.com/how-to-cover-buttons-with-fabric
Thread chains can be used for delicate button loops or belt loops. This technique can also be used to create a swing tack or French tack to attach a lining to the outer layer of a garment, often seen in dresses and skirts to stop a lining from riding up or moving inside the garment when wearing.
00:00 Introduction
00:13 Method 1 - Using your fingers
04:28 Method 2 - Using a crochet hook
07:52 Method 3 - Using blanket stitch
12:44 Method 4 - Using an overlocker / serger
13:07 Method 5 - Using a sewing machine
Shirring elastic is a very narrow cord elastic which can be used in the bobbin of a sewing machine. It is used to create a gathered effect on cuffs, necklines and waistlines, or throughout a garment such as a top for a fully fitted finish.
I've written a tutorial about these techniques which can be found on my blog at houseofmisssew.com/sewing-with-shirring-elastic
00:00 What is shirring elastic?
01:37 Overview of the 3 techniques for using shirring elastic
02:08 Winding the bobbin with shirring elastic
03:29 Setting up the sewing machine
04:56 Method 1: Working in rows
07:13 Finishing the ends of the shirring elastic
08:27 Using a steam iron to increase bunching and gathering of shirring elastic
08:38 Method 2: Working continuous rows
11:11 Method 3: Working in the round, sewing a spiral in shirring elastic
14:50 Tying knots and darning in the ends of the shirring elastic
Knife pleats are simple pleats which are usually folded in the same direction or may be folded in opposite directions either side of a centre of a garment piece.
You can see more details about this project and my finished jumpsuit over on my blog at www.houseofmisssew.com
I have altered the pattern slightly and show how to sew the short sleeve version with a single patch pocket (pocket piece taken from Simplicity 4760)
For details on how to sew the long sleeve version, including a shirt cuff and continuous lap see my video on 'How to Sew a Shirt Cuff with Continuous Lap'
youtu.be/yb-aFC_CtAw
If you are including the patch pocket with flap, buttonhole and button, see my video on 'How to add a Pocket Flap to your Patch Pocket.' youtu.be/13PEDOHP8nY
I also have separate videos on how to attach a patch pocket and how to attach a shirt collar.
00:00 Intro
01:32 Staystitching the neckline
02:28 Attaching the yoke fronts and yoke back pieces
06:44 Creating the patch pocket
11:51 Attaching the patch pocket
14:32 Attaching the shoulder seams
15:01 Edge finishing with an overlocker / serger
15:32 Topstitching the shoulder seams
15:59 Attaching the sleeves
19:01 Edge finishing the sleeves
19:27 Topstitching the sleeve seam
20:15 Sewing the sleeve and side seams
22:40 Attaching the front bands
26:36 Topstitching the front bands
27:33 Preparing and interfacing the neck band and collar
28:09 Attaching the neck band including clipping the seam allowance
31:35 Trimming and layering the seam allowance of the neck band
33:06 Creating the collar
34:10 Trimming and clipping the collar seam allowance
35:32 Turning the collar right side out - collar points
36:58 Additional tips for perfect collar points
39:16 Topstitching the collar
40:05 Attaching the collar
41:27 Attaching the neck band facing
44:54 Trimming and clipping the seam allowance of the neck band facing
47:47 Slipstitching the neck band
54:06 Topstitching the neck band
55:00 Edge finishing the side seams
55:34 Hemming the sleeves and lower edge of the shirt
01:01:26 Applying a label to the centre back neckband
01:01:44 Preparing for the buttonholes
01:03:30 Marking the buttonholes / buttonhole placement
01:04:46 Setting up the machine for automatic 1 step buttonholes
01:06:39 Sewing the buttonholes
01:08:47 Finishing the buttonhole threads
01:10:42 Cutting open the buttonholes
01:11:48 Fixing a buttonhole
01:12:34 Marking the buttons / Button placement
01:14:52 Sewing on the buttons
01:22:18 The finished shirt
I've never used this stuff before but it's so easy! I want to cover all my brown furniture with it :)


