![1950s Chain-driven Belt Sander [Rescue] @HandToolRescue](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/mj0wOTHImIc/maxresdefault.jpg)
Uploaded April 2017 | Updated September 2026, 1 week ago
This 1950 Skil 525 chain-driven belt sander was running a slow, probably due to the hardened grease around the gears. These are also known as "locomotive" sanders.
I completely tore it down except for the area where the worm-drive is. I didn't want to risk breaking anything trying to access that area. I ended up just adding new grease to the worm-drive gears. Power cord should probably be replaced, but I wanted to keep all the parts original as this tool is going to AvE.
The sander takes a 2 1/4" belt, which is not very common currently.
The sander works fine now and it is back to near original condition.
Interestingly, this sander was ~$65 in 1950, which would make the cost around $650 currently!
instagram.com/handtoolrescue
This 1950 Skil 525 chain-driven belt sander was running a slow, probably due to the hardened grease around the gears. These are also known as "locomotive" sanders.
I completely tore it down except for the area where the worm-drive is. I didn't want to risk breaking anything trying to access that area. I ended up just adding new grease to the worm-drive gears. Power cord should probably be replaced, but I wanted to keep all the parts original as this tool is going to AvE.
The sander takes a 2 1/4" belt, which is not very common currently.
The sander works fine now and it is back to near original condition.
Interestingly, this sander was ~$65 in 1950, which would make the cost around $650 currently!
instagram.com/handtoolrescue
![1950s Chain-driven Belt Sander [Rescue]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/mj0wOTHImIc/mqdefault.jpg "1950s Chain-driven Belt Sander [Rescue]
This 1950 Skil 525 chain-driven belt sander was running a slow, probably due to the hardened grease around the gears. These are also known as locomotive sanders.
I completely tore it down except for the area where the worm-drive is. I didnt want to risk breaking anything trying to access that area. I ended up just adding new grease to the worm-drive gears. Power cord should probably be replaced, but I wanted to keep all the parts original as this tool is going to AvE.
The sander takes a 2 1/4 belt, which is not very common currently.
The sander works fine now and it is back to near original condition.
Interestingly, this sander was ~$65 in 1950, which would make the cost around $650 currently!
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue/")
![1962 McCulloch MAC 15 80cc Chainsaw [Rescue]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/nn72FTYjIAY/mqdefault.jpg "1962 McCulloch MAC 15 80cc Chainsaw [Rescue]
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue/ for upcoming projects.
This chainsaw had a stuck pull-start and would not run. All it needed was some degreasing and a carburetor clean. It could still use some carburetor tuning, but does run completely fine now.")
![Swing Saw [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/oUWOOFII144/mqdefault.jpg "Swing Saw [Restoration]
This restoration was on a 1940s The Model swing saw made by Irvington Machine Works of Portland, Oregon, USA. I was unable to locate a specific patent related to this saw, but swing saws were popular even in the late 1800s in sawmills and lumber yards for quick cross-cutting.
The swing saw was sent to me by a viewer after he purchased it in an auction in Minnesota, USA. Once I saw it, I knew I had to have it. The danger level is too high for it not to be mine!
For this restoration I needed to remake a brass angle indicator through acid etching. I also had to create a custom bushing for the saw blade as the saw arbour is an odd size. The machine tags on both the saw and the original electric motor were left alone with only a little clean-up. All other parts were completely disassembled, de-rusted, sandblasted and painted.
The saw arbour had more modern roller bearings whereas all other bearing surfaces used babbitt. Luckily they all seem to be in good enough shape as to not need repair or replacing.
The new saw blade for this tool is one with a negative rake. This means the teeth of the blade are hooked in a backwards direction in relation to the the direction of spinning. Negative-raked teeth on circular saw blades are the safest choice for swing saws, radial arm saws, and sliding miter saws as they have less of a chance of grabbing the wood and driving saw toward your body and face.
Personally, I find this tool to be one of the most terrifying to use out of all the ones in my collection.
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
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Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
![1940s Japanese Noodle Maker [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/p1-plzI7zlI/mqdefault.jpg "1940s Japanese Noodle Maker [Restoration]
This restoration is on a Ono Noodle Maker (Type 3) made by the Ono Machinery Manufacturing Co. of Japan sometime near the middle of the 20th century. The noodle maker was sent to me by a fan over three years ago and I finally got around to restoring it.
Most parts were in decent condition with only one cutter needing repair. The machine was actually fairly complicated to take apart and put back together as wooden shims keep the machine properly tensioned as to not fall apart since there are almost no fasteners keeping it together.
These antique noodle cutters are apparently still sought after since they can handle the forces needed to cut noodles from low hydration dough. Low hydration noodles are more firm, snappy, and dense when cooked, which are important metrics for certain styles of ramen, for example.
I used semolina flour instead of bread flour as that is all I had on hand at the time. See recipe below.
Semolina Flour 500g
Water 150g (30% hydration)
Baked Potassium Carbonate 5g (1%)
Salt 5g (1%)
I honestly think the restoration and the noodles came out great and I am definitely going to use this in the future.
Wrenches, screwdrivers, and socket drivers are now for sale at https://www.handtoolrescue.com/
Watch narrated videos and help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue")
![Two-Man Chainsaw - Bar & Chain [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/pEDx_UoKNO0/mqdefault.jpg "Two-Man Chainsaw - Bar & Chain [Restoration]
The time has come for this chainsaw restoration. This specific saw restoration is for me and I have been wanting to get to this tool for a long time. I started the disassembly in November 2018 and had to wait a while for some rare parts to arrive. This chainsaw is a McCulloch 99 two-man chainsaw made in 1954. The engine is 161cc and the powerhead alone is 51lbs making it one of the largest production chainsaws ever.
In this video I focus on the bar, chain, and gearbox. Everything had rust and dirt removed and painted parts got 3 coats of yellow enamel and 2 coats of a 2K clear paint for gas and oil resistance. McCulloch chainsaws had very inconsistent yellow colours, so I tried to match the colour of this specific saw the best I could. The gear box was in fantastic condition and did not need much work at all whereas the bar and magnesium castings needed much more love. I sharpened the chain back to an aggressive 35 degree angle because I am sure the saw can handle it.
I was surprised to notice that this model saw does not have a screw adjustment for tensioning the chain. I am not sure if this will cause issues when cutting and I will die.
In the next video I will work on the completely destroyed muffler and the unique and complicated carburetor.
In the final video I will work on the powerhead and hopefully cut some wood!
Id like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/")
![Asbestos Shingle Cutter [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/qH688syrLww/mqdefault.jpg "Asbestos Shingle Cutter [Restoration]
I had a lot of fun with this tool restoration. Essential Craftsman sent me the Model-F Improved Handy Asbestos Shingle Cutter made by Specialty Tool MFRS. INC. around 1936.
It was in pretty good shape to begin with, but the paint needed to be redone. I think I could use this as a metal brake in the future. I left the screw holes uncovered as they are pretty coarse threads and could use some tightening. I went with a surprise cleat coat on this tool, but it left a finish that is not very smooth and even cracked in some areas. I make some changes to what needed to be painted based on what I think would look nicer.
I made sure to wear a mask and not to bring my workshop clothes into the house after I worked on it. I am not sure of any asbestos on the machine, but I wanted to be safe, just in case.
We breathe in about 1,000,000 fibres of asbestos each year, naturally, so hopefully this restoration doesnt contribute more than that.
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want): https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
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![Triple-Piston Pneumatic Circular Saw [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/qIbL5_Px0h0/mqdefault.jpg "Triple-Piston Pneumatic Circular Saw [Restoration]
This restoration is on a 1920s Model B12 Safety Saw pneumatic circular saw made by the Ingersoll-Rand Co.. The Safety Saw name was in reference to the patented design of the retractable blade guard, one of the first of its kind. This saw runs off of a triple-piston Little David motor that Ingersoll-Rand seemed to use in a number of their larger pneumatic tools.
Unfortunately, I could not find any mention of this saw in the literature and therefore it is only an educated guess on how much compressed air this saw need to run.
The saw had many previous repairs that all needed some new attention. The main issue with this item was the completely seized throttle valve and the extra crusty and old grease that had hardened over time.
Once cleaned of grease, repaired, and reassembled the saw would idle when I applied a bit of compressed air from my air compressor which can only put out 90 psi @ 20cfm. The idling is either due to the low flow of air not providing enough force on some valve to completely seal it, or there is a leak somewhere within the saw. Either way, I decided not to fix that issue because an idling pneumatic circular saw sounds AMAZING and I could listen to it all day.
Despite the reduced air flow, the saw still cut just fine and definitely had tons of torque. Ill be sure to use this next time I need to cut a thick wood beam with the most ironically named tool Ive restored.
Wrenches, screwdrivers, and socket drivers are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with @jimmydiresta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
![Antique Forge & Anvil [Rescue]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/r4JYRbhJUP8/mqdefault.jpg "Antique Forge & Anvil [Rescue]
I had a tough time choosing between a forge restoration and an anvil restoration. I decided to rescue them both instead!
The forge was made by Thompson MFG. Co out of Grand Bay, New Brunswick, Canada around the 1920s. It is made of solid cast iron with pipe legs. The clinker breaker was missing and I replaced it with one I had on hand, but I cannot seem to find photos of the original breaker design. Usually the clinker breaker is further into the firepot that what the forge seemed to be designed to use. It is also odd that the firepot doesnt really fit the forge very well. The broken piece for the pipe housing was not worth repairing. Both of these pieces just need to be functional.
The anvil was made by Soderfors in Sweden in 1928. I found this anvil with large amounts of torch damage and grinder marks all over it. The hardness of the face was most likely affected by the heat of the torch. Although not shown in the video, the anvil was heated up before it was stick welded. I got a friend to help weld and mill the anvil and that is why there is not too much footage of the anvil being welded. I think it actually came out pretty well, the hardness seems to have stayed about the same, but I am not sure if there is an improvement. The bottom of the anvil was flattened lightly also.
The blower is now packed with grease and filled with oil and seems to be running great. Link to the blower restoration is here: https://youtu.be/adJ2PMVg7Hq
Cant wait to do some blacksmithing! I just need to find some nice hammers, hardie tools, and a vise to help with the blacksmithing setup.
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want): https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue/")
![The Secrets of the Sock Machine [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/rAFlLEoFilM/mqdefault.jpg "The Secrets of the Sock Machine [Restoration]
This restoration was on The Worlds Star circular sock knitting machine with ribber attachment made by Creelman Bros. of Georgetown, ON, Canada. This particular model was patented in 1874 and was most likely made around that time as well since the company ended in the 1930s with different models. You can see what is left of the original manual here: https://www.angoravalley.com/sockmachines/manuals/Creelman%20Bros%20The%20Worlds%20Star.pdf
I won this tool at an auction several years ago and it came with several other important parts including the cast on basket, bobbin winder, weights and yarn stand. At the time I had no idea how much these types of machines were worth and was very surprised to find out how in-demand they are.
The sock machine was no in a massively poor condition like some other tools on this channel, but it did need some parts fixed, a full replacement of all the japanning, and a general clean. I was also happy to accidentally discover that the original gilding was able to be seen under UV light. This allowed me to have it recreated digitally and then as beautiful waterslides to get as close to the original designs as possible. I used a product called Micro Sol to soften the decals allowing me to blend the edges in better and to press the decal flush into the uneven cast surfaces.
How this machine functions eluded me until it was finally and entirely put back together. It was also very neat to see how the stitching works in slow motion, so that I could better understand what was going on.
I hope to make some full socks one day with the actual heal and fully ribbed ankle as those were just too much of a learning curve for now and potentially filled with fines and excommunications.
Id like to thank @CRCAutoUS for sponsoring this video. Ive switched to a food-grade penetrating oil from them as a more safe alternative, and it as worked just as well as the usual penetrating oils Ive used.
You can check out the products from them used in this video in the links below:
https://www.evapo-rust.com/
https://www.crcindustries.com/evapo-rust/
https://www.crcindustries.com/smartwasher/
https://www.crcindustries.com/food-grade-penetrating-oil-11-wt-oz/
Wrenches, screwdrivers, and socket drivers are now for sale at https://www.handtoolrescue.com/
Watch narrated videos and help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue")
![1930s Exercise Machine [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/rPHnoOkg9LU/mqdefault.jpg "1930s Exercise Machine [Restoration]
This restoration is on an exercise machine manufactured in the 1930s by the Health Developing Apparatus Co. Inc., of Bridgeport, Conn. USA. Aptly named The Seat of Health originally came folded up in a small suitcase for some reason. I assume it was so you could discretely move it from location to location without alerting the public to your need to improve your health.
Most of this machine is made of aluminum, but the steel parts were all originally nickel-plated to prevent rust from forming due to sweat. Interestingly, some of the pulleys and bearings are made of some type of wood. I think it may be rosewood or lignum vitae, which are both fairly hard and wear resistant. The original springs were still effective enough to be reused, but several other steel parts were either broken or missing. I ended up having to either completely remake or repair those parts as no replacements are available.
Apparently, there were 20 different exercises that you could do with this machine including some where you mounted it to a wall.
I will personally keep this one around the shop as something neat and ornate to look at from time to time.
Id like to thank @CRCAutoUS for sponsoring this video.
You can check out the products from them used in this video in the link below:
https://www.crcindustries.com/handtoolrescue
Wrenches, screwdrivers, and socket drivers are now for sale at https://www.handtoolrescue.com/
Watch narrated videos and help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue")
