![1879 Compass Plane [Restoration] @HandToolRescue](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/aH7wUYOlTck/maxresdefault.jpg)
Uploaded January 2022 | Updated September 2026, 2 weeks ago
This restoration is on a Type 1 Stanley No. 113 compass plane patented in 1879. You can view the original patent documents here:patents.google.com/patent/US216577
The Type 1 planes of the No. 113 were made from 1877-1880 and allowed users to plane curved wooden surfaces.
This specific plane was sent to me by a viewer.
I wanted to restore this plane as close to original as possible so I opted to japan the main body and nickel-plate the knobs. Unfortunately, you must drill out a specific pin located under the sole adjustment knob in order to fully remove it from the body of the plane. Other than that one pin, everything else was de-rusted and cleaned for reassembly.
With the blade sharpened, it preformed very well and was a lot of fun to use.
I really miss restoring hand planes as that is what got me so hooked on doing restorations in the first place.
Thanks again for evapo-rust.com for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches and screwdrivers are now for sale at handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
facebook.com/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall
This restoration is on a Type 1 Stanley No. 113 compass plane patented in 1879. You can view the original patent documents here:patents.google.com/patent/US216577
The Type 1 planes of the No. 113 were made from 1877-1880 and allowed users to plane curved wooden surfaces.
This specific plane was sent to me by a viewer.
I wanted to restore this plane as close to original as possible so I opted to japan the main body and nickel-plate the knobs. Unfortunately, you must drill out a specific pin located under the sole adjustment knob in order to fully remove it from the body of the plane. Other than that one pin, everything else was de-rusted and cleaned for reassembly.
With the blade sharpened, it preformed very well and was a lot of fun to use.
I really miss restoring hand planes as that is what got me so hooked on doing restorations in the first place.
Thanks again for evapo-rust.com for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches and screwdrivers are now for sale at handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
facebook.com/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall
![1879 Compass Plane [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/aH7wUYOlTck/mqdefault.jpg "1879 Compass Plane [Restoration]
This restoration is on a Type 1 Stanley No. 113 compass plane patented in 1879. You can view the original patent documents here:https://patents.google.com/patent/US216577
The Type 1 planes of the No. 113 were made from 1877-1880 and allowed users to plane curved wooden surfaces.
This specific plane was sent to me by a viewer.
I wanted to restore this plane as close to original as possible so I opted to japan the main body and nickel-plate the knobs. Unfortunately, you must drill out a specific pin located under the sole adjustment knob in order to fully remove it from the body of the plane. Other than that one pin, everything else was de-rusted and cleaned for reassembly.
With the blade sharpened, it preformed very well and was a lot of fun to use.
I really miss restoring hand planes as that is what got me so hooked on doing restorations in the first place.
Thanks again for https://www.evapo-rust.com for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches and screwdrivers are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
![1902 Champion Blower & Forge Co. No. 400 Forge Blower (Part One) [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/adJ2PMVg7hQ/mqdefault.jpg "1902 Champion Blower & Forge Co. No. 400 Forge Blower (Part One) [Restoration]
In this video, I disassemble three separate, but similar, forge blowers in order to get all the parts needed to assemble one fully functioning forge blower. The bronze gear proved too difficult to remove without damaging some other parts, so I just left it in. I had triple of all the small parts like nuts and bolts, so my main goal was to get them off by any means. In the next video, I will paint and reassemble the forge blower.
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue/ for upcoming projects.")
![Portable Power Actuated Rim-driven Annular Saw [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bPZQ6jZLxUs/mqdefault.jpg "Portable Power Actuated Rim-driven Annular Saw [Restoration]
THE ONE TRUE DANGER SAW! This 1949-patented portable power actuated rim-driven annular saw or Sally Saw, as it was marketed, was born in the depths of hell to seek revenge upon its enemies. Once double-crossed by a half-man/half-tree hybrid, it now seeks for limbs of any kind. Luckily, as an amorphous blob-of-a-human-being, I alone posses the ability wield power over it.
Watch as I unravel this 1.5HP circular saw on a stick made by Cummings Machine Works of Boston, Massachusetts, USA.
Have you ever wondered how it was all going to end? Your life, flashing before your eyes...OR ARE THOSE THE RED WOOD CHIPS FROM A LOG AND YOUR FOOT?
This 80lbs behemoth is made almost entirely of aluminum and tries as hard as it can to make sure you do not enjoy using it. The problem, it only makes me want to use it more. It has got me under its spell. I HAVE BECOME SALLY SAW, destroyer of worlds.
If youd like to learn more about how I am a totally kid-friendly saw that would never hurt anyone and definitely didnt take over this channel:
Patent: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2490255
Decals: https://www.sugarcreeksupply.net/products/sally-saw-decal-set
Gallery of important details: https://imgur.com/a/cVIa5ho
Manual: LOST TO TIME, if someone has one, please contact me
Thanks again for https://www.evapo-rust.com for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches and screwdrivers are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with Jimmy DiResta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
![1930s Electric Shear [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bWV9v5dxEG8/mqdefault.jpg "1930s Electric Shear [Restoration]
This restoration is on a 1930s Stanley Fish-mouth Unishear. This model is number 16A and is made to cut steel up to 16 gauge, but is over-powered and can do much more!
This tool was sent to me by a viewer and arrived with rust that seemed to be fairly recent. It was also filled with mud wasp nests, which is something I rarely see in tools since I live in the frozen tundra. The shear is almost entirely aluminum with only a select few hardened steel parts. The motor cleaned up well, but one of these days I would really like to do a proper electric motor restoration where I rewind it all and have it dipped in lacquer.
Apparently this tool needs an infinite supply of oil to function well, so I replaced the bearings with sealed ones in case I forget to oil it one time. It was missing an oil cap for one of its bearings, which was easily made and replaced. I also replaced all the screws in the handle with brass ones, just because I like to shear in style.
I hope to use this around the shop to help me with some sheet-metal work for future restorations.
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/")
![Vintage Saw Sharpener [Rescue]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bY40PLiEUnw/mqdefault.jpg "Vintage Saw Sharpener [Rescue]
This thing is amazing! It is a Foley Automatic Filer Model 61 from 1954-1958 made by the Foley Manufacturing Co. of Minneapolis, MN. It has the capability to sharpen and joint hand saws, band saws, and circular saws. These sold for around $250 USD in 1954, which is equivalent to $2300 USD in 2019. They were marketed as the all-in-one sharpening solution for running your own sharpening business. This specific unit was generously donated to me from a viewer.
This restoration ending up turning into a rescue as I decide to keep the original paint and not repaint the tool. Usually, if a tool has more than 90% of its original finish, then I will not repaint it, and that is what happened here. Even though, originally, the tool was not painted very well and painted almost fully assembled, it was still worth saving. I just gave all parts a semi-gloss clear coat to bring back the original luster and prevent future rusting.
The only parts that were missing were a set of thumbscrews, a lock nut, and the light attachment. I ended up making the light attachment and had the custom lock nuts remade at the machine shop.
The machine was also originally missing the hand saw carriage and bandsaw blade attachment, but luckily, I was able to source the saw carriage from a follower on instagram. The bandsaw blade attachment is still needed, so let me know if you ever find one.
Getting the machine set up properly is definitely time consuming, but once perfected the sharpening goes quickly. I would love to use this machine to sharpen some hand saws that I find during my antique tool searches. I know you can use it for jointing saw blades as well, but I did not show that in the video.
I would like to thank Evapo-Rust for sponsoring this video.
Wrenches are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/")
![Narrated: Antique Jewelry Lathe [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eS91Db1VhAw/mqdefault.jpg "Narrated: Antique Jewelry Lathe [Restoration]
This is my voice.
More narrated videos will be on https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue")
![Bird Cannon [Restoration]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/fJY0P5aL5dg/mqdefault.jpg "Bird Cannon [Restoration]
This restoration is on a ZON bird cannon made by the B.M. Lawrence & Co. of San Francisco, CA, USA in the 1950s. This tool is also called an automatic scarecrow, carbide cannon, bird scarer, or orchard cannon and cost $60 USD in 1955 which is about $750 USD today. You can view the original patent here: https://patents.google.com/patent/US3056376
The cannon works by the user mixing calcium carbide and water to create acetylene gas. Once the gas builds up to a certain amount, it is emptied into the explosion chamber and a flint is struck, igniting the gas and creating an extremely loud sound in hopes of scaring away birds and apparently human ears.
This is the most dangerous tool I have restored thus far. The risk of creating shrapnel was present and real during every restoration decision. The main rubber diaphragm was completely rotten and needed replacing, but if I did not find rubber with equivalent thickness, strength, elasticity, and resistance to acetylene, I could accidentally create a massive problem for my limbs. If the restored firing mechanism jams, it may allow for multiple doses of acetylene to enter the chamber, and remove my face. If I accidentally let water enter down the pressure equalization tube in the calcium carbide chamber while moving it around, it could go off while I am holding it, making me deaf for life.
Modern equivalents are made today, but use propane instead.
Id like to thank @CRCAutoUS for sponsoring this video. Ive switched to a food-grade penetrating oil from them as a more safe alternative, and it as worked just as well as the usual penetrating oils Ive used.
You can check out the products from them used in this video in the links below:
https://www.evapo-rust.com
https://www.crcindustries.com/evapo-rust/
https://www.crcindustries.com/smartwasher/
https://www.crcindustries.com/food-grade-penetrating-oil-11-wt-oz/
Wrenches, screwdrivers, and socket drivers are now for sale at www.handtoolrescue.com
Watch narrated videos and help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with @jimmydiresta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
![1920s Lawn Mower [Restoration] - Part 1](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/fSO9CpPROM8/mqdefault.jpg "1920s Lawn Mower [Restoration] - Part 1
This machine was made by the Coldwell Lawn Mower Co. of Newburgh, NY, USA in the late 1920s. It claimed to cut and roll 3 acres on a single tank of gas using a 25 width reel mower powered by a 3.5HP Fuller and Johnson engine. It cost the equivalent of ~$7000 in current(2024) USD.
This video focuses solely on the restoration of the engine portion of this tool. The engine was not in the worst shape I have seen for something its age, but it is a very odd design and not common at all.
It fought me every single step of the way, to the point where it took me 4 months to fully restore.
I made some choices early in the restoration that came back to bite me in the end. I decided not to replace the piston rings despite a light honing of the cylinder, since replacements were not available at the time and I really didnt want to make new ones like I did for the steam engine restoration. I also decided to use composite cork with a gasoline resistant coating for the carburetor float replacement. Lastly, I decided to lightly repaint the outside of the of the magneto.
Unfortunately, all of these things were a terrible idea that set me back months of work and time. The piston rings did need a full replacement as compression was low and blow-by was showing up in the oilers. I found a single set in Australia. The coating on the cork float completely failed , so I tried coating it entirely in gasoline tank sealer, but that also failed. I ended up replacing the float entirely with one that I custom made out of nitrophyl, which is a plastic float resistant to gasoline. The original cork float was coating in shellac, which unfortunately will dissolve in modern gasoline, which contains ethanol. Lastly, I spent 5 weeks working on the Bosch BA-1 magneto, which decided to completely stop working after just painting the outside. This is a rare magneto with expensive and hard to find replacement parts, so I had to figure it all out myself. I ended up completely tearing the whole thing apart multiple times and investigating every part with my multimeter. Initially, it looked like the secondary coil needed to be rewound, which would have taking a professional several months, but once I got my hands on a more sensitive multimeter, it checked out fine. I also replaced the capacitor within the magneto, but that did not help either. After weeks of disassembly and reassembly, I found a hairline crack in one of the insulator parts that was allowing some voltage to leak and spark somewhere internally to the magneto.
I also chose to restore the radiator for the engine in the next part of this restoration, as I can run the engine for a short period without it, and this video was already running quite long.
In the end I learned that this is the first engine Ive ever restored that has depression and truly hates all its original parts.
Id like to thank @CRCAutoUS for sponsoring this video. Ive switched to a food-grade penetrating oil from them as a more safe alternative, and it as worked just as well as the usual penetrating oils Ive used.
You can check out the products from them used in this video in the links below:
https://www.evapo-rust.com/
https://www.crcindustries.com/evapo-rust/
https://www.crcindustries.com/smartwasher/
https://www.crcindustries.com/food-grade-penetrating-oil-11-wt-oz/
Wrenches, screwdrivers, and socket drivers are now for sale at https://www.handtoolrescue.com/
Watch narrated videos and help secure more tools for future videos (if you want):
https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue
Facebook Group - Share your restorations
https://www.facebook.com/groups/handtoolrescue
https://www.facebook.com/handtoolrescue/
Reddit - Share your restorations
https://www.reddit.com/r/HandToolRescue/
Podcast (with @jimmydiresta and Andrew Alexander) - https://anchor.fm/fitzall")
