1200wh LifePO4 Solar Generator Build - Part 3 - Battery Installation @createthisdotcom

Uploaded June 2016 | Updated September 2026, 1 day ago

I bought a 1200wh LifePO4 battery for my solar generator. Watch as I install it step by step.

Part 1 is about draining the battery to 12V: youtu.be/kFLFqpB-DAU
Part 2 is about bottom balancing the cells: youtu.be/rZGLbAv2MCA
Part 3 (this video) is about installing the battery: youtu.be/tLQ7TY5xeIs
Part 4 is about charging via solar for the first time: youtu.be/dI36N79bnOE
Part 5 is about testing the amp hour capacity of the battery: youtu.be/gMEbXG94vPc

Here's the checklist I'm using in the video: docs.google.com/document/d/1YHDGYO3nDEa9QS8AQbYC5JuB-MPYbY2ykOnqgIDxi5s/edit?usp=sharing

Here's the EV4U Cellpro Powerlab 8 video I reference multiple times: youtu.be/3XQ6cqrCzb4

See below for a list of the parts, products, and tools I use in this video.

GBS-LFMP100AHX 12V 100Ah 1.3kWh Lithium Battery: [affiliate] amzn.to/2cJFVO5

Fluke 87 Multimeter: [affiliate] amzn.to/1WKyVQC

Midnite Solar Classic 150 Charge Controller 150VDC Input MPPT: [affiliate] amzn.to/1XohLIr

FMA Powerlab 8 v2: [affiliate] amzn.to/1YlKdKL

"Watt's Up" RC Watt Meter & Power Analyzer WU100 Version 2: [affiliate] amzn.to/1YlKCwH

Anderson Powerpole Connectors 45 Amp 10 pair: [affiliate] amzn.to/1U84jrY

Go Power! GP-SW300-12 300-Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter: [affiliate] amzn.to/1UoMROa

Go Power! FBL-400 Class T 400 Amp Fuse with Block: [affiliate] amzn.to/1UOS3GP

Blue Sea Systems 5118 250A Class T Fuse: [affiliate] amzn.to/1OlZ99y

Xantrex PROWatt 2000 Inverter, Model# 806-1220: [affiliate] amzn.to/1UOSocB

TMS® 16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 11 Dies: [affiliate] amzn.to/1OlZWHu

Victron BMV-700 Battery Monitor: [affiliate] amzn.to/1UMfGCA

1200wh LifePO4 Solar Generator Build - Part 3 - Battery Installation

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$Carbon Micro-H Brushless FPV Quad (cleanflight!) I built a QAV250 a few months ago. I built one just like Charpus, using most of the same parts. However, I quickly realized I didnt enjoy flying it around my neighborhood. It was too large, too powerful, and too dangerous to my kids and the neighbor kids. So, I decided to build a micro brushless quad for around the neighborhood fun, and reserve the QAV250 for weekends away from the house. This is the first FPV video Ive made with the new micro quad. I recorded it using my Dominator HD DVR. What you see here is pretty much what I see while Im flying, though I do think the quality has been reduced a bit by the DVR. I really like this tiny camera. Its not quite as good as my QAV250s camera, but its way better than my Hubsan X4 H107Ds FPV camera. The wide angle view is really great. It makes flying very easy as you can see your surroundings clearly. My only complaint is a wish it didnt have quite such a strong fisheye effect. Being a photographer, I much prefer rectilinear lenses. In this video, Im flying with zero camera tilt. A tilt of a few degrees would make the quad zip around like a mad speed demon. Im really really trying to keep it flying slow here, because Im not a very good pilot. It gets away from me once or twice and zips across the lawn. This is a fraction of the speed its capable of, I think. Im flying in rate mode here. Those of you with a Hubsan X4 would LOVE rate mode. It completely eliminates drift as the battery drains, which is one of the more infuriating problems with the Hubsan. My controller is a Taranis and Im getting telemetry from the quad via the D4R-II onboard, complete with battery voltage via the AD2 port. I dont have an OSD, but I dont mind much, because my Taranis provides audible and haptic feedback when my battery is low. This is a really great setup, because I can fly LOS or FPV with equal ease. I took the time to flash the MU-3A ESCs with BLHeli during the build. It was a giant pain in the ass, because I had to remove the plastic wrap and then painstakingly solder and desolder tiny wires to the MU-3A. I hear BLHeli 13.2 has its own bootloader for Silabs chips, which would allow programming via the motor leads. However, I installed 13.1, so Im stuck with this unless I do it over again. I may be having motor timing issues. Not sure. NOTE: The MU-3A ESC does NOT support light damped. Boo! Here are my BLHeli settings: http://i59.tinypic.com/vpx7k4.png Im no expert at PID Tuning, and I think this config could still be tightened up a bit. However, it feels pretty good, so heres my Cleanflight config for posterity: Top Config Page: http://i58.tinypic.com/2gtaxac.png Mid Config Page: http://i61.tinypic.com/n318j7.png Bottom Config Page: http://i62.tinypic.com/3150bpj.png PID Tuning Page: http://i62.tinypic.com/2dw5n2g.png Receiver Page: http://i58.tinypic.com/4tlvo2.png CLI Page: http://i61.tinypic.com/53jqev.png This quad is 4-1/2 long (not including props) and 4-1/2 wide. That number increases to just under 6-3/4 wide and long if you measure tip to tip on the props. Compare that to my Hubsan H107D, which is roughly 5-1/4 long and wide with the prop guard installed. The micro-H brushless is just an inch and a half larger! Compare that to my QAV250, which is 14 long and 14-1/2 wide, tip to tip on my 6045 props with carbon fiber arm extensions. The Micro-H Brushless is less than half as big! NOTE: I also own a CMJCU based cleanflight quad, which is brushed. While the CMJCU quad is smaller, I prefer this one because the oversky 32-b flight controller has a USB port. Ive already fried one of my CMJCU boards by screwing up the pinout on the FTDI to USB adapter. Having a USB port onboard is really great. Heres the parts list for anyone wanting to build their own: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1DghtS72VaQpadYkaHjmtFnRvI8Z7PPggi35HKhcNRwM/edit?usp=sharing Shout out to HerkyBird for his blog post, which inspired this build: https://herkybirdrc.wordpress.com/2015/03/01/brushless-carbon-micro-h-quad-build/ This quad is similar to HerkyBirds quad, with a few notable exceptions: 1. I 3d printed my motor mounting plates. See the parts list for the URL. 2. Im using a D4R-II, rather than the built-in DSM2 Rx on the Oversky 32-b. This gives me Rx based failsafe, battery voltage, and significantly increased range, in addition to not needing an OrangeRx module on my Taranis. I love it! 3. In this video, Im using the stock whip that comes with the VTX. Ive got a cloverleaf, but I havent had time to install it yet. PRO TIP: Place a small dab of superglue on the props before installing them on the motor shafts. I learned this the hard way, as I had a number of props fly away during flight.$

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