The Last Stitch | 10 tips for Sewing Knits: For beginners and beyond @Thelaststitch | Uploaded November 2017 | Updated October 2024, 7 hours ago.
Get better at sewing knits! 10 tips on how to sew with stretchy fabrics on a sewing machine or serger.
More of my videos on how to sew knits
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78WjN0L4sdSYvEInT-YXM_Au
Tip 1
Use a ballpoint needle
Use a good quality ballpoint needle to avoid holes and skipped stitches. For sewing
machines, common stretch needle sizes are 75, 80 and 90. If you are sewing over thicker layers and are experiencing some problems, try switching to a larger ballpoint needle.
Tip 2
Use a stretch stitch
On a sewing machine, use stretch seam that overcasts the edges. Those are often labeled stretch seams
or overlock seams. You can also use a narrow zigzag stitch, which is sometimes also called a lightning bolt stitch
On a serger use the 3-thread overlock seam, both the narrow and the wide version are excellent choices
Tip 3
Stretch matters
Not all knits are created equal. Always check what amount of stretch that the patternn recommends. If your fabric has less stretch you might need to add more ease to the garment
Use a smaller seam allowance
Most stretch stitches will be around 6mm 1quarter inch wide. Using a similar seam allowance size will make sewing easier
Stabilise the shoulder seam
You need to stabilise the shoulder seam to keep it from growing. Use clear elastic on the back shoulder seam. Either attach it separately with a zigzag stitch or sew the elastic and shoulder seam in one go.
Tip 3
Use wonder tape
Stabilise the hem with water soluble wonder tape. The tape is sticky on both sides and will prevent the fabric from stretching out when stitched
Use an awl to feed the fabric
Feed the upper layer of the fabric using a sharp object like an awl or a large needle. Push the fabric towards the presser foot while sewing, this will mimic the differential feed on the serger and coverstitch machine.
Use a Twin needle
The twin needle sews two rows of straight stitches on top and a zigzag underneath. To perfect this stitch your will have experiment with the needle tension and stitch length and you might even have to adjust the bobbin tension as well to prevent the tunneling effect that can be an issue with double needle stitches
Factor in shrinkage
Natural fiber such as cotton and wool knot can shrink quite a bit lengthwise and might continue doing do for several washes. So either prewash or wash just a sample and then add more length to the garments to compensate for the shrinkage
Experiment and have fun
Not everything will go according to plan, but it's all part of the sewing learning journey. Just keep experimenting and you'll be rewarded with some fabulous garments!
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 Order my latest book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Amazon Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases that are disclosed as Amazon affiliate links.
Get better at sewing knits! 10 tips on how to sew with stretchy fabrics on a sewing machine or serger.
More of my videos on how to sew knits
youtube.com/playlist?list=PLYLu6Y2YN78WjN0L4sdSYvEInT-YXM_Au
Tip 1
Use a ballpoint needle
Use a good quality ballpoint needle to avoid holes and skipped stitches. For sewing
machines, common stretch needle sizes are 75, 80 and 90. If you are sewing over thicker layers and are experiencing some problems, try switching to a larger ballpoint needle.
Tip 2
Use a stretch stitch
On a sewing machine, use stretch seam that overcasts the edges. Those are often labeled stretch seams
or overlock seams. You can also use a narrow zigzag stitch, which is sometimes also called a lightning bolt stitch
On a serger use the 3-thread overlock seam, both the narrow and the wide version are excellent choices
Tip 3
Stretch matters
Not all knits are created equal. Always check what amount of stretch that the patternn recommends. If your fabric has less stretch you might need to add more ease to the garment
Use a smaller seam allowance
Most stretch stitches will be around 6mm 1quarter inch wide. Using a similar seam allowance size will make sewing easier
Stabilise the shoulder seam
You need to stabilise the shoulder seam to keep it from growing. Use clear elastic on the back shoulder seam. Either attach it separately with a zigzag stitch or sew the elastic and shoulder seam in one go.
Tip 3
Use wonder tape
Stabilise the hem with water soluble wonder tape. The tape is sticky on both sides and will prevent the fabric from stretching out when stitched
Use an awl to feed the fabric
Feed the upper layer of the fabric using a sharp object like an awl or a large needle. Push the fabric towards the presser foot while sewing, this will mimic the differential feed on the serger and coverstitch machine.
Use a Twin needle
The twin needle sews two rows of straight stitches on top and a zigzag underneath. To perfect this stitch your will have experiment with the needle tension and stitch length and you might even have to adjust the bobbin tension as well to prevent the tunneling effect that can be an issue with double needle stitches
Factor in shrinkage
Natural fiber such as cotton and wool knot can shrink quite a bit lengthwise and might continue doing do for several washes. So either prewash or wash just a sample and then add more length to the garments to compensate for the shrinkage
Experiment and have fun
Not everything will go according to plan, but it's all part of the sewing learning journey. Just keep experimenting and you'll be rewarded with some fabulous garments!
✂️ Shop my sewing books and patterns
shop.thelaststitch.com
📘 Order my latest book Master the Coverstitch Machine
thelaststitch.com/master-the-coverstitch-book
🏃♀️ Get my book Sewing Activewear
thelaststitch.com/sewingactivewear
✂️ Shop my favourite sewing tools
amazon.com/shop/thelaststitch
Sign up to get a quick guide to the best sewing machine stretch seams
thelaststitch.com/knit-sewing-machine-stitches
✂️Find me on the Internet✂️
My blog: thelaststitch.com
Instagram: instagram.com/laststitch
Facebook: facebook.com/laststitchsew
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.se/thelaststitchsew/
Amazon Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases that are disclosed as Amazon affiliate links.
