Fantastical Follies Costuming
Making an Ionic Chiton: Easy Historical Costuming for Beginners | Rings of Power Cosplay
updated
In this video, I'll show you how to make an Edwardian riding corset using the Amelia Waspie pattern from Ora Lin. These are versatile little garments, good for late Victorian costume, Ren Faire looks, even vintage style, as they came back into fashion in the 1950's during the dominance of Dior's New Look.
Even better, they're extremely simple to construct, because they're small! And because you only have two measurements to fit--your waist, and the length of your torso--they're a great way to dip your feet into corsetry, especially if you've been too overwhelmed to start something bigger! In this video, I'll walk you through all the steps to make this cute lil' corset, including tips for your first corsetry project, as well as a more advanced technique for my experienced folks looking for a fun, versatile way to use up some scraps in their stash.
My wearable mockup: youtu.be/2sVWRzTQTw8
Ora Lin's version: youtu.be/NSL8xFm5Yxk?si=otndrZc1DQdplPkh
Shannon Makes' version: youtu.be/3wZMj-O-HgU?si=sy-J6b-6mvzbby82
Resources:
Silk from: silkbaron.com
Colored coutil from: richardthethread.com
Busk, metal boning, grommets, and twill tape from: wawak.com
Zip ties and black interlining from stash
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters
00:00 Making a Waspie
02:02 Installing grommets & busk
06:26 Basting and fitting
08:55 Assembling for realz
11:35 Binding and covering
15:42 Sneaky busk treatment
16:52 The reveal
*Here's where you can follow Tiffany* @StitchinAddiction *!*
Tiffany's website: stitchinaddictionshop.com
Follow on YouTube: youtube.com/@StitchinAddiction?si=WbNQ9i9oDJYFdoh1
Follow on Instagram: instagram.com/stitchinaddiction?igsh=MWo4ZXdybW9zbjNzeQ==
Follow on Pinterest: https://tr.ee/fro6SJZaGd
*Resources:*
Resources: Most extant examples used for this video are either from the Met Museum or the V&A, or pulled directly from Patterns of Fashion 5.
*Books I mention:*
Patterns of Fashion 5
17th Century Women's Dress Patterns Books 1 & 2 from the V&A Musuem
*Corset Pattern companies I recommend for corsetry novices:*
Ora Lin Patterns
Laughing Moon
Black Snail Patterns
Redthreaded
Fig Leaf Patterns
Past Patterns
Scroop Patterns
Simplicity/American Duchess
P Ryan
Videos I mention:
How to draft Elizabethan Stays: youtu.be/S39qSzd53us
Making Elizabethan Stays: youtu.be/hNFenKdbxYI
1660's Unicorn: youtu.be/3upZIEeMv88
Making my Cassandra 1770s stays: youtu.be/gLN0bdrK81o
Green Late-Vic corset: youtu.be/PZckxaVc-TQ
Fitting Edwardian Corset: youtu.be/CzBXfZHi8Ug
Making Edwardian Corset: youtu.be/BYoPtDVf09E
You can find every corsetry video on my channel in this playlist: Corsetry and Staymaking: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ouEUjgjdZPtsZnKzsJJAA7h
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 Ranking Historical Corset Styles for Beginners
00:24 Elizabethan Bodies
02:35 Important notes
03:39 Early 17th Century Bodies
05:03 Mid 17th Century Bodies
06:46 1690's Stays
08:04 Early-Mid 18th Century Stays (Conical)
09:46 Late 18th Century Stays (THRUSTY.)
11:29 1790's Transitional Stays
13:51 Regency Stays
17:02 1830's Corsets
18:41 Mid-Victorian Corsets
25:00 Late Victorian Corsets
26:58 Edwardian S-Bend Corset
29:18 Edwardian Riding Corset/Swiss Waist/Waspie
31:04 20th Century Transitional Corset
32:11 1910s Straighty McStraighterson
32:59 Historybounding Stays
I'll walk you step by step how to make a 1790's round gown AND a cute red open robe to wear over top! I'm extremely pleased with the way this look turned out and am excited to share the making of it with you! Let me know--have you costumed in the 1790's? Why or why not?
Resources:
Both American Duchess guides AND the Simplicity pattern I used can be found here: americanduchess.com/collections/books-and-patterns
Fig Leaf Federalist patterns: figleafpatterns.com/federalistregency-patterns.html
Gold spot'd muslin from: burnleyandtrowbridge.com
Red striped linen from: renaissancefabrics.com
My other videos I mention:
-Edwardian S-Bend Corset: youtu.be/BYoPtDVf09E
-Fitting an Edwardian S-Bend: youtu.be/CzBXfZHi8Ug
-Edwardian Combinations: youtu.be/vPHHMcxAomA
-Pink Angelica: youtu.be/A1cuALwyThM
-Red Angelica: youtu.be/ehq0WkPBTFw
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters
00:00 Why does nobody costume the 1790's?
01:20 Mocking up
05:06 Assembling
09:38 Backtracking...
12:53 Sleevils
17:34 Quick n'dirty open robe
22:22 The Reveal
Edwardian corsets, like the rest of the underpinnings at the turn of the century, are famous for being beautiful, highly decorative, and SUPER curvy. This corset fits the bill, and I'm almost positive it's the loveliest corset I've ever made! Would you wear it?
If you'd like to learn how I modified the pattern and custom-fit it, you can find that video here:
If you'd like to see how I made the combinations underneath, that video is here:
Resources:
Dye and sateen: dharmatrading.com
Coutil: tutu.com
Busk, spiral and flat steel, and twill tape: wawak.com
Lace: farmhousefabrics.com
Synthetic whalebone: corsetmaking.com
Corset pattern: etsy.com/listing/4299616760/1900s-midbust-edwardian-4-panel-corset?ls=r&ref=items-pagination-2&sts=1&dd=1&content_source=41e98f6321923cb6904c61372848338c%253A01d877658a0a5d7f2f750931f26b40b07a84ac19&logging_key=41e98f6321923cb6904c61372848338c%3A01d877658a0a5d7f2f750931f26b40b07a84ac19
Free 1890's hip pad: caseyreneecosplay.com/shop/free-1890s-petticoat-template-abwt5
Low-cost Edwardian bust improver pad: wearinghistorypatterns.com/products/e-pattern-edwardian-bust-improver-wearing-history-pdf-historical-costume-sewing-pattern
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 I made the prettiest corset ever!
00:27 Customizing the color
03:56 Assembly
07:06 Fitting
13:55 Finalizing the construction
14:32 Darth Potater
16:21 Making it PRETTY
19:31 The Reveal
In this video, I'll break down what makes fitting an Edwardian S-bend--popular from the late 1890's through 1910(ish)--different from fitting earlier style corsets from the Victorian era. Then we'll go through the four steps of fitting, from wrangling the paper pattern in the first stage through several mockups and into the fitting the actual corset made from the actual materials!
Resources:
The corset pattern: etsy.com/listing/4299616760/1900s-midbust-edwardian-4-panel-corset?ref=shop_home_active_3&dd=1&logging_key=68f8ee28eb334e0a6b8afe63c897c9403d7ed67d%3A4299616760
All my corset/stays/bodies making and fitting videos in one playlist: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ouEUjgjdZPtsZnKzsJJAA7h
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters
00:00 Pro Corset Fitting Tips for a Perfect Edwardian S-Bend!
00:31 Anatomy of an S-Bend corset
02:41 Step 1: Paper & Math Stage
04:39 Step 2: First Mockup
10:25 Step 3: Second Mockup
14:30: Step 4: Final Fitting Stage
I'm not sure WHY Edwardians put so much lace on their underwear, but the effect is glorious, and I'm so excited to share this video with you! We'll go step by step through the making of these Edwardian combinations, and bedeck them with as much lace and frills as my budget could manage.
With, of course, a few snafus along the way!
This is the start of a very exciting late 1890's/Early 1900's project. As always, one must start with the base garment and work their way out. It's more fun, though, when the underwear is this RIDICULOUSLY frilly!
You can check out the other videos in this series here (when they go live.)
Resources:
The pattern: etsy.com/listing/1025501273/edwardian-combinations-digital-pdf?ref=share_v4_lx
Linen from: fashionfabricsclub.com
Various laces from: farmhousefabrics.com
Cotton voile from: fabricwholesaledirect.com
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 I made the frilliest, laciest Edwardian underwear
01:56 Prepping the bodice
03:56 Prepping the drawers
06:25 The problems begin...
09:51 Time for FRILLS!
16:41 The Reveal
Stolas are incredibly versatile, and like their predecessor, the Ancient Greek chiton, are fast, simple makes perfect for beginning sewists, whether you're into historical costuming or looking for a cool, comfy modern sundress. They'll take you from SCA event, to fantasy ball, and straight through to the office! Consisting of two basic rectangles, you can knock up a machine-sewn stola in just a couple of hours, or entirely hand-sew it in just a weekend.
Unless you're Fantastical Follies, in which case, well...you'll completely over-complicate it, and manage to take a weekend project and turn it into an epic two-month chaos sew.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Resources:
Turquoise cotton voile from www.fabricwholesaledirect.com
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 Making the Perfect Historical Garment: A Roman Stola!
01:55 Adding a lining
03:32 Adding pocketses
05:08 Assembling the stola
07:28 Problem solving pocket issues
08:59 Embroidery
12:18 Facing the stola
13:00 Sewing the shoulders
14:44 The reveal
16:34 Modern chemise explanation
The shirt: youtu.be/Obce-sfA90g
The breeches: youtu.be/mRWvFxChxic
The coat: youtu.be/B7KiIqvxT20
Resources:
Both books I reference are no longer in print:
-The Cut of Men's Clothes by Norah Waugh
-The Evolution of Fashion by Margaret Hamilton Hill & Peter A Bucknell
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 I made a 1660s suit with 100 yards of ribbon!
01:00 The ribboning commences
02:05 Cutting out the cloak
04:52 Dye prep
06:02 Rain saga
06:45 Dyeing & assembling the cloak
09:40 Still ribboning...
12:15 Adding gold trim
14:11 Tackling the peacock feathers & finishing touches
17:35 Lacy collar time
19:15 The reveal
These coats are a fascinating piece of history, as their change in design singificantly marks changes in masculine fashion that will be in place for entire following century! Featuring an open center front, open sleeves, and a surprise peekaboo back, these coats are rather strange to our eyes--but are absolutely fabulous in their own right!
Like many 17th-century styles, the open coat is very underrepresented in the historical costuming community, partly because there aren't any resources out there for us to study--the few that exist are from books that aren't in print or are 40 years out of date.
Or both 🙄
Between the scarcity of information, the fiddliness of a tailored garment with 27 (yes, 27!) handmade ORNAMENTAL buttons, and the fact that this is a completely shapeless garment made for masculine bodies going on a very curvy feminine body, this make is one of the most difficult I've ever done on this channel--and we haven't even decorated it yet!
This is part of my 1660's Peacock project. Here are all the videos in the series:
The shirt: youtu.be/Obce-sfA90g
The breeches: youtu.be/mRWvFxChxic
The full Peacock: youtu.be/0ywsozUrpXY
Resources:
Both books I reference are no longer in print:
-The Cut of Men's Clothes by Norah Waugh
-The Evolution of Fashion by Margaret Hamilton Hill & Peter A Bucknell
The extant coat from the V&A can be found here: collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15593/doublet-unknown
My video on how to scale gridded patterns: youtu.be/7JXbKGVUE_U
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 This Weird 1660's Coat Changed Fashion Forever
00:33 Scaling the pattern
00:53 Mocking up
03:48 The Tippi Hedren Incident
04:31 Cutting out and prepping
06:00 Assembling
09:42 Drafting the sleeves
11:23 Making a gazillion buttons
13:40 Adding the sleeve
16:30 Tabs and finishing touches
20:10 The Reveal
In this video, we'll explore why petticoat breeches are so despised, and attempt to make not only a fancy pair of them, but the drawers and canons that go underneath! These over-the-top trousers are so much fun to wear and I'm so excited to share this process with you! Like most garments of the mid-to-late 17th century, there is very little information available on their construction, and so there is a lot of guessing and educated assumptions involved in the construction of these garments!
This is the second video in the 1660's Peacock series, where we are constructing an entire masculine outfit fit for the most fabulous and flamboyant of fops! You can check out the other videos here:
The shirt: youtu.be/Obce-sfA90g
The coat: youtu.be/B7KiIqvxT20
The full Peacock: youtu.be/0ywsozUrpXY
Resources:
Both books I reference are no longer in print:
-The Cut of Men's Clothes by Norah Waugh
-The Evolution of Fashion by Margaret Hamilton Hill & Peter A Bucknell
The extant petticoat breeches from the V&A can be found here: collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O356780/petticoat-breeches-unknown
Teal quilting cotton from fashionfabricsclub.com
Kelly green and white cotton voile from fabricwholesaledirect.com
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 The Most Hated Garment in History!
01:22 Drafting the drawers
03:04 Constructing the drawers
05:28 Making the canons
07:26 Drafting the breeches
09:15 Assembling the breeches
12:02 Pleating and hemming
15:57 The reveal
I'm so excited to share this video with you! This dress is a floaty, cottagecore, historybounding confection inspired by the chemise gowns of the late 18th century! When I saw its equivalent on Linennaive I fell in love immediately. But I couldn't justify spending $200 on a dress that is just rectangles! Especially since I've already made the historical version, and have a fitted pattern handy!
In this video, we'll analyze the Linennaive dress, modify the existing chemise gown pattern from Laughing Moon, and hand-dye some linen gauze to make this most fabulous, bahama-blue dress that is one of my favorite things in my wardrobe!
And did I mention it has giant pockets? 🙃
Resources:
*The inspiration dress:* linennaive.com/collections/2025-spring-new-arrivals/products/maxi-linen-dress-in-pink-ethereal-dress-wedding-dress-fairycore-dress-milkmaid-dress-retro-dress-cottagecore-dress-linennaive
*The historical pattern:* laughingmoonmercantile.com/product-page/133-download-ladies-robe-en-chemise-w-optional-train
*The linen gauze I used:* fabrics-store.com/all-fabrics?article=IL030 (make sure you sign up for the emails and wait for the 38% off coupon)
*Fiber reactive dye in Bahama Blue:* dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-fiber-reactive-procion-dyes.html?lnav=dyes.html
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters
00:00 DIY Historical Dress Hack That Will Save You HUNDREDS
00:36 Sourcing materials and fabric prep
01:50 Designing the dress and cutting
04:17 Assembling the bodice
07:00 Hemming and assembling
10:22 Fixing all the issues
11:50 The reveal
While we do have several extant mantuas left, they are both from about 10-20 years AFTER this fashion plate was created. And much like other centuries, a lot can change in construction in 20 years. In this video, I will attempt to reverse-engineer this gown using the later-period style, my knowledge of how this gown developed, and some good old-fashioned gumption. One of the reasons people don't recreate from this era is lack of resources and knowledge--so I wanted to show my though process, my logic, and my construction. The fails as well as the wins. And while no, we don't actually know how this gown was cut and pleated (because they were taken apart and changed into other things), we can make some intelligent assumptions.
And come out with a result that, while not perfect, is a fairly good representation of the fashion plate!
Resources:
I used "The Cut of Women's Clothes" by Norah Waugh for construction tips and the original--later--pattern
This gown is based on one of the fashion plates from Recueil des modes de la cour de France, which dates between 1670-1693
*CONTENT NOTE: some of these plates reflect the colonialist sentiments of the time and depict both POC in positions of servitude as well as some very appropriative costumes of other cultures. Please use caution when looking through these if you are sensitive to those topics. My inspiration plate is number 51, and does not reflect any of these topics. You can find the collection here:* collections.lacma.org/node/205568
Making my green, later period mantua: youtu.be/LkWBOX7uzBE
Making my 1640s-1660's Pizza Bodies: youtu.be/EhFcM5VA5fU
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 Making a 1680's mantua
00:47 Cutting out the petticoat
02:45 How the heck is this mantua made?
04:36 Studying the fashion plate
05:07 Drafting the mantua
06:54 Assembling
08:48 Pleating
11:55 Facing and fit checks
14:04 Finishing the petticoat
17:18 Sleevils and finishing touches
21:30 The reveal
This is inspired by the Walkaway Dress Challenge from Stephanie Canada, except instead of making a dress in a single afternoon, I'm attempting something much more intricate and complicated: an Edwardian riding corset, also referred to as a waspie. This is an under-bust corset from a free pattern from Ora Lin Patterns. This is (arguably) a crazy thing to attempt, but hey, panic sewing an entire outfit the day before an event is DEFINITELY on brand (and not just for me...🤣)
I'm excited to share this process with you! While this is technically a wearable mockup, I wanted a fun stripey corset to wear for a bard costume during a recent venture out to my local Renaissance Faire! It was a lot of work but the results (whether I finished in one day or not...) are great!
Resources:
The Pattern: ko-fi.com/s/325530224c
Striped fabric and cotton canvas from www.fabricwholesaledirect.com
Cotton sheeting from www.dharmatrading.com
Black cotton twill tape from www.wawak.com
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat: zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 Can I finish a corset in one day?
00:24 Pattern and Rules
01:41 Cutting out
03:05 Hurdle #1 cleared
04:33 Hurdle #2
05:38 Eyelets
06:38 Assembling
08:02 2/3 mark
09:25 Hurdle #3
11:46 Adding fashion fabric
14:12 The Morning After
15:30 The Reveal
You're not alone. Join me as I tackle my giant mending pile using historical techniques! We'll check each project off the list as we tackle them one by one in an effort to be more pragmatic and rational. Because there is no reason--NO REASON--you should throw something away because it needs to be mended, or chuck a t-shirt into a mending pile and leave it there for ten years because you can't be bothered to run it through your machine.
Don't be like me 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Resources:
Here are the videos related to the garments I fix in this video!
Adjustable Victorian Walking Skirt: youtu.be/VkGN_9H2N78
Beatlejuice Cosplay: youtu.be/3F1adn2bW7M
The Lobster Gown: youtu.be/yILxJ31zPRQ
Sandwich Stitch: youtu.be/PsTIXxMAag0
1640's Pizza Stays: youtu.be/EhFcM5VA5fU
Altering Stays: youtu.be/SJnUFXFGrig
Historical Weird Barbie: youtu.be/eI-Y1fsBQLc
Witchy Victorian Undergarments: youtu.be/dFpynFoysPA
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 Mending mayhem!
00:56 Sottana hem fix
02:42 1830's Weird Barbie sleeves
04:57 Beatlejuice fly insertion
07:21 Quick fixes
14:06 Altering the Pizza Stays
18:07 Polka dot remnant dress
And, of course, because it's the 1660's and we're over the top even in our most basic of underthings--decorating it with frills and ribbons and lace!
Hey, you wanted to be fashionable, right?
These garments were typically made out of pristine white linen and were made to be seen. They feature a high collar, cuffs, and detachable lace ruffs at the elbows and wrists. While you can make this garment as basic or as frilly as you want, this definitely was an era of power dressing where you really wanted to lay it on thick.
This is one of the most fun eras of clothing for masculine wear, and I'm SO excited to be dipping my toes into it! This is the beginning of my 17th century Baroque Peacock costume. We'll be building it from the skin out.
The rest of the series:
The shirt: youtu.be/Obce-sfA90g
The coat: youtu.be/B7KiIqvxT20
The full Peacock: youtu.be/0ywsozUrpXY
Resources:
Cotton voile from: fabricwholesaledirect.com
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 Making a 166's Shirt
00:36 Drafting the shirt
02:23 Materials and cutting
03:54 Gussets of DOOOOM
05:53 Constructing the body
10:00 Finishing the neckline & sleeves
13:34 Houston, we have problem...
15:53 Time for trimming!
18:48 The reveal
In this video, I'll go through the steps of making a waistcoat using Black Snail's 1890's Waistcoat pattern. Tailoring is a skill that, like corsets, needs to be physically done to acquire, and I'm certainly still in the thick of the learning curve. But what is a Fantastical Follies video without...a little chaos? 🙃 I'll walk you through some of the more confusing parts, and even if I get a little snarky, it'll all turn out right in the end.
I hope you enjoy this process! I made this Victorian waistcoat to attend a Victorian weekend, and it totally made the outfit. This whole look has taken me a good year to get to on and off, and now that it's complete, I feel so satisfied and happy with the results!
Also...it's purple. 💜
Resources:
Purple silk from: silkbaron.com
Pattern from: blacksnailpatterns.com
How I made the purple walking skirt: youtu.be/i1jHfoEo0aI
How I made the shirtwaist with convertible sleeves: youtu.be/tbJa1PYY2fM
Socials:
Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/fantasticalfolliescostuming
Follow me on TikTok: tiktok.com/@fantasticalfollies
Support this channel by buying me a coffee 🧡☕: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
Chapters:
00:00 Making an 1890's Waistcoat
00:30 Magic mockup
04:36 Initial assembly
06:31 The snarktastic welt incident
09:36 Interfacing and arranging the guts
14:08 The collar saga
16:18 Assembling the sides FINALLY
19:58 Finishing touches
23:15 The Reveal
This is my savvy solution: cutting apart an existing, tried-and-true 1890's walking skirt pattern (Scroop's Fantail Skirt) and adding some panels...and a secret stretchy weapon to make this walking skirt fabulous and versatile. It maintains the smooth, body-hugging look in the front to give you that quintessential 1890's silhouette. The best part of this technique? It lets you add giant pockets!
This is a very easy skirt hack that can be applied to virtually any skirt pattern you already own--walking skirts and whatever else you might like to apply it to!
Resources:
The pattern I used: scrooppatterns.com
Black handkerchief linen from burnleyandtrowbridge.com (no longer available)
If you want more detail into how this pattern is constructed, here is my video on the periwinkle non-adjustable version (but you can be durn sure I'm altering this baby ASAP!) : youtu.be/i1jHfoEo0aI
If you're interested in my striped shirtwaist, I made a cream version with convertible sleeves in this video: youtu.be/tbJa1PYY2fM
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Chapters:
00:00 Making an 1890's Adjustable Walking Skirt!
00:58 Designing the plackets
02:08 Attaching pockets to plackets
06:15 Adding elastic for adjustability
10:28 Finishing touches
13:26 The reveal
In this video, I will show you in detail some ways to alter your existing stays if the fit isn't what you want. It can be exceptionally simple to do--and depending on how much grace your past self gave you, can be a fast and easy way to upgrade something that would otherwise gather dust in your mending pile.
I'll show you how to take apart your stays (or corsets, this method works for those, too!) and modify the fit. I'll also give you step-by-step instructions on how to add a panel in case you need to add a LOT of space to your stays.
Start to finish, this only took me about four days to complete--while working on other (much larger) projects in the process! So don't be intimidated--with this video and a little patience, you can achieve the comfort and look you want in your stays. Because you deserve it!
Resources:
The stays pattern: etsy.com/listing/1220793192/autumn-stays-sewing-pattern-pack?click_key=8290deb6dd76f106cae825c8528d45a3051bb539%3A1220793192&click_sum=2849d132&external=1&rec_type=ss&ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-1&sts=1 (Sorry it's so long!)
How to redraw boning channels: youtu.be/OsuOf6mRCUk
Chapters:
00:00 How to Alter Stays for a Perfect Fit!
01:27 Step 1: Analyzing what you've got
04:06 Initial alterations
05:32 Adding an extra panel
11:29 Fixing the strap length
14:26 Final tips
16:01 The Reveal
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In this video, I will walk you step-by-step through how to make this gorgeous 18th century cloak. First, we'll draft the pattern--and it's a very easy, beginner-friendly thing to draft--and then make the cloak, which took only a couple of days to complete! This is truly a fast and fabulous make.
I love this cloak, and have gotten a lot of wear out of it since I made it last fall! It's become a staple in my historical wardrobe, and was a really awesome instant-gratification project to work on while I was buried in lobsters. Everyone needs a little red cloak in their arsenal to brighten up those drab winter days 🙃☃️
Chapters:
00:00 Drafting a gorgeous 18th century red cloak!
00:51 Drafting the pattern
02:34 Drafting the hood
03:25 Materials
05:31 Assembling the cloak
07:55 Fan-pleating the hood
09:48 Attaching the hood
12:37 The Reveal
13:55 Oo-de-lally!
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In this video, I'll walk you step-by-step through how to make a basic camicia with self ruffles. And, in typical Fantastical Follies fashion, make ALL the mistakest 😂😳 It's a bumpy, chaotic ride, but the finished product is fantastic, and hey--at least I made the mistakes, so now you don't have to!
Resources:
3.7 oz handkerchief linen (in optic white) from: fabrics-store.com/linen-fabric
Tournameny of Defense: tournamentofdefense.com
Chapters:
00:00 How to Make a Renaissance Camicia!
0:48 Materials
03:52 Sleeves
04:36 Adding gussets
06:56 Camicia quirks
10:03 Tackling the neckline
11:03 The Fail
13:20 Cutting guide
14:56 The Reveal
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I'm SO excited to finally share this make with you! From the hand-dyed fabric to the 26 (!) papier-mâché lobsters dangling from various parts of the gown, this thing took an immense amount of labor. The bodice is decorated in various puffs and lobsters and crowned with a felted lobster "little guy." The apron, or overskirt, is block printed with a hand-carved stamp and then hand painted with funny little lobster guys before getting trimmed and bustled. And the underskirt is covered in pleated voile "grass" before--yep, you guessed it!--getting covered in MOR LOBSTAS.
Even better? My friend made the accompanying Seagull gown, and we got to wear it to a Victorian event in December!
Is this the most epic bustle gown ever made? Maybe. It's certainly the most crustaceous.
Watch the whole Saga of the Lobster Gown in this playlist! youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ovmCbG6dyCbFqah4CdF9Hv9
Resources:
Bodice Pattern: blacksnailpatterns.com/en/products/viktorianische-damen-balltaillen-von-1880-bis-1900-schnittmuster-0320-grosse-eu-34-56-pdf-download
Cotton twill, cotton sateen, and Robin's Egg fiber reactive dye: dharmatrading.com
Teal cotton voile: fabricwholesaledirect.com
Lobster mold: Amazon
Lobsters: My recycle bin :D
Chapters
00:00 I spent 1000 hours recreating this lobster gown
00:53 Forming the trash lobsters
03:23 Painting the trash lobsters
05:23 Assembling the foundation skirt
08:25 Lobster sewing
10:31 Painting the apron
13:30 Block printing lobsters EVERYWHERE
16:26 Finishing the assembly
18:41 Final touches!!!!
19:18 The reveal
20:44 Behind the scenes tea spillin'
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#victorianfashion #1880 #fancydress #lobster
I've found that Victorian bodices are some of the more difficult historical garments to fit--and have made several unsuccessfully in the past. It wasn't until someone mentioned that these bodices are difficult to fit because they're basically the same shape as your corset with ease that it really clicked! So in this video, we'll use my tried-and-true corset fitting stages to tackle the bodice above!
I'm so excited--after three different failed patterns--to have a Victorian bodice block that fits! Hopefully this will help you in your fitting endeavors ;)
This is part of the epic Saga of the Lobster Gown, based on an 1883 fashion plate of crustacious proportions. Check out the whole playlist here! youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ovmCbG6dyCbFqah4CdF9Hv9
Ready to tackle an FBA or SBA? Here's Dixie's excellent video: youtu.be/pMFjKa-oiEQ?si=bS04sGu2MO7h-Tqk
Resources:
The pattern I used: blacksnailpatterns.com/en/products/viktorianische-damen-balltaillen-von-1880-bis-1900-schnittmuster-0320-grosse-eu-34-56-pdf-download
Chapters:
00:00 How to Fit a Victorian Bodice
00:30 Pattern & Math Stage
06:41 First Mockup
10:05 Second Mockup
13:30 Final Fitting
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#fitting #victorianfashion #1880
Seriously. Why are needle-felted critters so ding dang cute?
In this video, I'll walk you step by step through my (slightly chaotic) process of first needle felting this lil' guy and then turning him into a hat. Because why make an adorable little guy just to sit on your mantle, when you could make him portable, so he can go with you wherever you do? 🙃
This is part of my Victorian "Lobster Gown" project, based on an 1883 fashion plate. If you're interested in the whole journey, you can check out all the related videos here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ovmCbG6dyCbFqah4CdF9Hv9
Resources:
Wool of the Andes roving from: knitpicks.com
Tiny Mushroom needle felting kit: benziedesign.com/collections/sewing
Felting needles: amazon.com/dp/B0D31P75N9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Chapters:
00:00 Felting an ADORABLE Little Guy à la Rachel Maksy!
00:45 The design
01:22 Constructing the Little Guy
05:13 Adding the claws & antennae
11:34 Making the lil guy into a hat
13:42 The Reveal
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Stay tuned for the reveal and some SERIOUSLY bad Beatles puns 😆🤐
I'm so excited to share the making of this Beatlejuice costume with you! It's taken five months and lots of labor, and she's not perfect, but I'm so excited! This pun costume came to me as an idea in 2019 when I was Taco Belle for Halloween, and it's taken me this long to build my skills enough to finally tackle it--just in time for the Beetlejuice movie to come into theatres!
In this video, I will show you how to make the spoopy trousers, the Beatles-inspired tricorn hat, the drum inspired by the Sgt. Pepper album cover, and add some ghoulishly fun details to my 1980's-inspired blazer, all to complete a look that is PERFECT for every party in the afterlife *chef's kiss*
Resources:
Black and white striped cotton poplin: fabricwholesaledirect.com
Apple green silk habotai and cotton sheeting (interlining): dharmatrading.com
Black wool hat and rickrack trim from Amazon
Everything else from stash
The entire Beatlejuice series, in one handy playlist: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_os7X95Smf3_n5a1lSR_c7YY
Chapters:
00:00 Making a BEATLE-Juice Costume
00:29 The design
01:20 The spoopy trousers
06:59 Beatlejuice Drum
11:10 Tricorn Hat
12:51 Blazer lining
15:23 How to make epaulettes
17:54 The Reveal
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I mean...power sleeves. Amiright?
Follow along as I make this fabulous striped Beetlejuice blazer for my big Beatlejuice Halloween costume! My teenage self SWORE she'd never be caught dead wearing shoulder pads, but the truth is I think it's actually kind of a nice silhouette--when done properly.
This was not an easy thing to make, and I'm excited to share the process with you--1980's inspired montage and all! But the real question is...
Would YOU wear a blazer with shoulder pads??
Resources:
Black and white striped cotton poplin: fabricwholesaledirect.com
Apple green silk habotai and cotton sheeting (interlining): dharmatrading.com
Hair canvas and button blanks: wawak.com
True vintage pattern is McCall's 2194 (bought on Etsy.)
This blazer is part of my Beatlejuice Halloween costume, and you can view the entire playlist for that series here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_os7X95Smf3_n5a1lSR_c7YY
Chapters
00:00 Is this 80's Blazer a Fashion Disaster?
01:12 Mockup Montage
03:43 Cutting and assembly
05:35 Welt pockets
08:00 Back vent, collar and facing
10:28 Adding the sleeves & shoulder pads
13:13 Lining the blazer
15:00 Lining the "sleevil" pads
16:47 The reveal
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Making a pair of 18th century stays reversible is not without its challenges--particularly on the "lining" side, there are a lot of elements to consider when laying in the lining in order to get the fabric to lay nicely on the body. And of course, adding stripes makes it even more difficult! But even if these stays aren't ~perfectly~ pattern matched, they still turned out incredible--and they're extremely breathable, AND comfortable! And because they're reversible stays, they will get twice the use--which makes them twice as good!
The purple side of the stays are hand-dyed and will make all my witchy 18th century dreams come true. The striped side of the stays serves a greater purpose: as part of my big Halloween costume, Beatlejuice!
Let's bring Spooky Season in with Style!
Resources:
Pattern: scrooppatterns.com
Striped poplin: fabricwholesaledirect.com
Dye: dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html?lnav=dyes.html
Wool stuff & herringbone linen from stash (past Burnley & Trowbridge fabrics)
These stays are part of my Beatlejuice Halloween costume, and you can view the entire playlist for that series here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_os7X95Smf3_n5a1lSR_c7YY
Chapters
00:00 Making FABULOUS Witchy Reversible Stays!
1:00 Part 1: The Prep
07:45 Part 2: Assembly
10:29 Part 3: Adjustments
16:49 Part 4: Final Assembly
20:43 The Reveal
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In this video, I will walk you through the four-step mockup process as I fit a pair of Cassandra stays from Scroop Patterns. These stays are good for the years 1760-1780 and will give you what I think of as the "Mid-18th century" silhouette--with a long, conical torso perfect for your next robe à la française!
First, we'll chat about what we're looking for in this particular silhouette, and then I will walk you through the mockup process, where there is plenty of adjusting, problem solving, and pirate shenanigans. Arrrrrgh!
These stays are part of my Beatlejuice Halloween costume, and you can view the entire playlist for that series here (once it's all aired): youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_os7X95Smf3_n5a1lSR_c7YY
More corsetry and staymaking can be found in this playlist: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ouEUjgjdZPtsZnKzsJJAA7h
Chapters:
00:00 How to Fit 18th Century Stays
00:24 How are stays supposed to fit?
01:22 Paper & Math Stage
03:36 First Mockup
08:00 Second Mockup
12:22 Final Fitting Stage
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And some tools might be great, but maybe not on your first few makes.
In this video, I'll rank corsetry tools and supplies based on their usefulness, with the beginner in mind. Let's save some moolah and look fabulous doing it!
Where do your favorite tools rank on my list?
My left-handed dressmaking shears: amazon.com/dp/B07TMDRVQW/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_J2070WSC761C91RQ3GM7_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Chapters:
00:00 Ranking Corsetry Tools for Beginners
00:30 Tiers
01:52 Synthetic whalebone
02:53 Frixion Pens
03:33 Serger
05:04 Tailors’ curve
05:50 Steel boning
07:48 Seam allowance curves
08:37 Double tracing wheel
09:20 Clear ruler
09:57 Grommets
11:36 Metal eyelets/setter
12:45 Grommet banger thing
13:48 Zip ties
14:19 Lacing guide
15:34 Fancy fashion fabric
16:15 Rigiline boning
16:52 Fitting buddy
20:47 Awl
21:16 Grommet cutter
21:59 Coutil
22:56 Dremel and sanding bit
24:03 Plasti-dip
24:48 Pre-cased boning
25:29 Grommet Press
26:54 Good scissors
27:23 Dedicated steel boning cutters
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Here at Fantastical Follies, we love a historical cosplay, and Weird Barbie is no different. I knew instantly the first time I watched this movie that I wanted to make a cosplay for her--and those giant puffy sleeves are SCREAMING 1830's! This is a quick make, though not without its problems, and this video will take you along the journey, snafus and all!
Resources:
1830's Gown Pattern: blacksnailpatterns.com/en/products/biedermeier-abendkleid-um-1830-schnittmuster-0317-grosse-eu-34-56-us-8-30-pdf-download
Mood Bridgerton Pattern: moodfabrics.com/blog/the-bridgerton-dress-free-sewing-pattern
Fabric: fashionfabricsclub.com
Chapters:
00:00 Weird Barbie with a Victorian Twist!
00:59 Franken-patterning
01:51 Mocking up
03:21 Assembling the dress
07:02 Zippers stink
09:55 The fun stuff
14:35 Snakeskin Gaiters
18:34 The reveal
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#weirdbarbie #barbie #barbiecosplay
I'm so excited to share this fitting process with you as I fit this pair of trousers and then make a wearable mockup in anticipation of my Beatlejuice cosplay! I'm using the Laughing Moon pattern number 141, which is a 1940's trouser with a classic fit that is appropriate for modern as well as vintage styles. This is a great pattern chock full of information, including different closure options and markups for turning this into a shorts pattern. In addition, it has a lot of fitting advice, and is quite reasonably priced, so if you're a beginner and want to try a good pattern to learn how to fit trousers, this is a great place to start.
Don't let fear get in the way of making a pair of FABULOUS pants! This is a beginner-friendly guide that goes through the fitting process one step at a time!
Resources:
Pattern: laughingmoonmercantile.com/product-page/141-download-ladies-classic-fit-trousers-w-medium-wide-legs
Rayon/linen blend fabric: www.dharmatrading.com
Trouser fitting guide: blog.closetcorepatterns.com/pants-fitting-adjustments-best-tips-for-pants-fitting
Chapters:
00:00 Fitting Trousers 101
01:01 Determining size
03:48 Balance lines and important notes
06:02 First try on
07:36 Second try on
09:08 Fixin' the 'ole CT
10:20 Full thigh adjustment
11:59 Magic Pants Dance
14:03 Fixing a gaping waistband
16:33 Modifying the pattern
17:33 Wearable mockup time!
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This just goes to show that even the savviest of dyers can make mistakes. After leaning up against a freshly-bleached kitchen counter, there was a huge white spot left on my chiton. My stupid solution? Try and re-dye just the bleached portion, despite the fact that I mixed two different dye colors together for the first round, and made no attempt to notate the ratio! I ended up making it way too dark--and have been so embarrassed to wear it out, since!
🤦♀️
Resources:
Linen gauze: fabrics-store.com/all-fabrics?article=IL030
Forest Green Fiber Reactive Dye: dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-fiber-reactive-procion-dyes.html?lnav=dyes.html
Dharma Trading Dye Calculator: dharmatrading.com/cgi-bin/procion_yields.cgi
Chapters:
00:00 Can I fix this dye disaster?
02:05 Removing the dye
06:43 Re-dyeing
10:46 How to dye test swatches
13:30 Final touches
16:21 The reveal
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In this video, I'll walk you step by step through how to take a gridded pattern, scale it up, and customize it to fit your precise waist measurement digitally. This method only takes a couple of minutes and results in a beautiful, life-size pattern you can print from home.
Don't let fear and intimidation get in the way of tackling one of these garments! I know first hand what that feels like--but I promise you that with this method, scaling gridded patterns will no longer be overwhelming! Even better--this process can be done by someone completely new to scaling patterns !
Chapters
00:00 How to Scale a Book Pattern the Easy Way!
00:38 Materials
01:18 Digitizing the pattern
04:42 Adjusting the scan
07: 15 Scaling to actual size
10:46 Customizing the pattern
14:54 Tips & Tricks
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#patternmaking #historicalcostuming
The truth is that while the 17th century is one of the most obscure centuries for historical costuming, most of the people who want to costume but don't are just afraid. This video aims to help you get over that fear, because this is not a competition, and perfection is not an achievable goal 🧡
Chapters :
00:00 Myths about the 17th Century
01:21: Myth 1
04:01 Myth 2
08:02 Myth 3
09:51 Myth 4
15:18 Myth 5
17:01 The Honest Truth
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#17thcentury #17thcenturycostuming
I love historical corset covers, but they are built for the higher necklines of Victorian and Edwardian clothing. This little gal is made to work with pretty much any kind of neckline, so it can be worn as an actual corset cover, or worn under historybounding clothing to protect the wearer's modesty or to hide modern undergarments.
This corset cover is very easy to make, with a simple rectangular design inspired by a Roman stola. Already, in the short time since this has been finished, it's become my historybounding wardrobe staple!
Chapters:
00:00 Making a Modern Corset Cover for Historybounding Mishaps
01:06 Measuring and drafting
02:36 Figuring out the neckline
03:36 Assembling
5:43 Drawstring channels
8:15 Decorations
10:19 The Reveal
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I can't say I'm EXCITED to show you this--honestly, I'm a little embarrassed--but it's time to draw the curtain in hopes that we, as a community, can come together to problem solve some accesible solutions to craft clutter! Because the truth is, we all have similar problems: not enough space, chaos fingers, and too many crafts to manage the organization!
Chapters:
00:00 Tiny Space, HUGE Chaos!
00:59 Community problem solving
02:18 The Sewing area
10:00 The Pit of Despair
14:58 The living room
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First, we'll make a spectactular embroidered open robe using our existing Regency gown pattern, with a gorgeous pleated back and some lovely gold trim. These types of open robes were worn frequently in the Regency period to change up the looks of gowns. I've been wanting a Bridgerton style open robe to compliment my coral Regency gown now for two years, and I'm so excited to show you how simple and fast they are to make!
Next, we'll make a gorgeous sleeveless spencer out of some ribbed silk taffeta. While the open robe is more historical fantasy in its fabric choice, this sleeveless spencer is historically adequate and completely hand sewn! This particular style was popular right at the turn of the century, from about 1798-1800, and while that's a little early for the Bridgerton time period (which starts I believe in 1812), it's still totally a thing we see in Bridgerton's costumes, so it's all good!
Not only is this spencer super fast to make (only a couple of days of hand sewing!), it's incredibly cute and can be worn with modern clothing when you want to historybound in full Bridgerton style! (Bridgertonbound?? Bridgerbound? Hm...)
Chapters:
00:00 A Bridgerton Upgrade for my Regency Gown!
00:31 Part 1: The Open Robe
04:00 The problem with French seams
05:25 Assembling the open robe
08:24 Finishing the open robe
10:14 Part 2: The Sleeveless Spencer
12:44 Attaching the collar and peplum
15:13 Facing & lining the spencer
16:53 Trimming problems
19:46: The reveal
Resources:
The Gown/Open Robe pattern: laughingmoonmercantile.com/product-page/126-download-ladies-round-or-trained-gown-with-high-stomacher-front
The Sleevelss Spencer pattern: figleafpatterns.com/217-sleeveless-spencer-c1799-1800.html
Embroidered Tulle: tutu.com
Ribbed Taffeta: renaissancefabrics.net
Everything else from stash
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#bridgerton #bridgertonseason3 #regency
In this stream, we'll chat about finishing the Unicorn, the Bridgerton upgrade, and some of the upcoming projects that will be uploaded onto this channel! This was just a short test stream to work out any kinks.
00:00 Stream Test and Spring Plans
12:13 Actual stream start
18:16 Jacki has technical difficulties
20:00 Return to stream
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With one tiny change: instead of permanently attaching the long sleeves, we’re going to make them convertible, so they can come on and off depending on the weather to make a much more useful, versatile piece of clothing for our everyday wardrobe!
Even better, this is a quick weekend project. Because who doesn’t love instant gratification?
Resources:
Cream cotton poplin: moodfabrics.com
Laughing Moon Pattern 103: laughingmoonmercantile.com/product-page/103-download-victorian-1890s-bodice
Chapters:
00:00 Making a Versatile 1890’s Shirtwaist Because the Weather Stinks
02:37 Bodice Assembly
05:33 Adding the collar and boning
09:01 Converting the sleeves
14:56 The Reveal
Socials:
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Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
Based on an extant 1660's gown from the Fashion Museum in Bath, this labor of love (emphasis on the labor) is a gorgeous gown from the mid 17th century that is me-made and almost entirely hand-stitched! (Except for the boning channels. I'm a masochist, but I'm not crazy.)
In this video, I'll walk you through all the steps to transform the 17th century petticoat and bodies we made last video into a sparkly, embroidered, embellished Baroque dark unicorn! We'll make a homemade unicorn horn, a flower tiara, learn how to make a mythical silk-painted-by-hand overskirt and bedazzle literally more than a thousand gems onto some golden lace to add just a little extra *pizazz.*
If you'd like to help support this channel, you can check out my Ko-fi page ☕🧡 : ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Missed us building the gown? That video and the rest in the series can be found in the 1660's Baroque Dark Unicorn playlist found right here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ouq6B2BWHy3lvZZD9tzotYp
Resources:
Inspiration Jewelry (There's only 1 left!) from Dames a la Mode: damesalamode.com/collections/reproduction-georgian-collet-necklaces/products/pastel-rainbow-aurora-crystal-necklace-large-octagon-black-friday-special
Lutestring Silk from Burnley & Trowbridge: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/burnleyandtrowbridge.com
Rhinestones, glass pearls, & gold lace from Amazon
DMZ Diamont gold floss from box craft store
Sculpey clay from a box store
Rest of materials from stash
Chapters:
00:00 Becoming the Baroque Dark Unicorn of my Dreams
02:02 Embroidering the CF
04:47 Bedazzling EVERYTHING
06:35 PSA
09:24 Constructing the overskirt
12:53 Sleevils
15:45 Horn and Crown
19:44 Painting the overskirt
24:22 The reveal
Socials:
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Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
Even though there aren't any reputable patterns that are available for the 1660's, we do have several extant garments that have been made available to us for patterning! In this video, I'll take the 1660's Smooth-Covered Stays in Watered Silk Camlet from Patterns of Fashion 5 and show you how to make it, from the petticoat (which is one of the only remaining extant petticoats left from this era!) to the bodies, or bodice, of the gown itself.
17th century bodies were boned structured garments, the big sister to 18th century stays and 19th century corsets. The difference? In the 1660's, the bodies were the actual top of the gown!
Like stays and corsets, fitting bodies is a task unto itself. If you'd like to see an in-detail video on how I fit these bodies, you can watch the video here: youtu.be/sniUWomye18
Tutorial on the Sandwich Stitch: youtu.be/PsTIXxMAag0
If you'd like to watch any of the other videos in my 1660's Dark Unicorn series, the entire playlist is right here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ouq6B2BWHy3lvZZD9tzotYp
Resources:
Patterns of Fashion 5: shop.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/product-category/books/?v=79cba1185463
Lutestrink silk from Burnley & Trowbridge: burnleyandtrowbridge.com
Cotton coutil from Richard the Thread: richardthethread.com
"Moody Blue" cotton sateen: Originally from a fabric company I do not recommend purchasing from, dyed using discontinued fiber reactive dye from Dharma Trading.
Chapters:
00:00 How to make a 1660's gown
01:04 Yardage guide
02:42 Constructing the petticoat
08:29 Constructing the bodies/stays
09:52 Adding the boning channels
12:03 Assembling pt 1
14:44 Making homemade buckram
16:45 Assembling pt 2
18:26 Time for fashion fabric!
23:46 Binding the tabs
Socials:
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Support this channel by buying me a coffee: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
But fear not, my friends, in this video, I'll walk you step by step through the process of fitting a 1660's bodice, from talking about what we're actually looking for in an ideal fit, to showing how to apply our knowledge on something round and squishy (aka, muh body.) When all is said and done, fitting 1660's bodies is no different from fitting stays, or from fitting corsets--it's just that the silhouette is different!
This is the second and most detailed part of my mockup process for my 1660's gown. My wearable mockup video, and the first portion of the process, can be found here: youtu.be/fllsUsT-cik
The whole Dark Unicorn costume can be found in this playlist: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_ouq6B2BWHy3lvZZD9tzotYp
More 17th century makes: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_os9LJwNssg8DskuPwQAkMWw
Resources:
Patterns of Fashion 5: shop.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/product-category/books/?v=79cba1185463
Seventeenth Century Women's Dress Patterns Book 2: amazon.com/Seventeenth-Century-Womens-Dress-Patterns-Book/dp/1851776850
Chapters:
00:00 How to fit 1660's Bodies/Stays
01:15 The fit of 17th Century bodies
03:47 Mocking up
04:33 Second Mockup Stage
06:43 Fit issues
09:15 Fixing the problems
14:46 Final tweaks
Socials:
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Support this channel by buying me a coffee: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
I don't know about you, but I've got a ton of fabric that I purchased on a whim because I loved it, and then never used it because I couldn't figure out what to do with it! In this video, I will take inspiration from Selkie and make my own puffy-sleeved floofy Cottagecore dream dress using fabric that I purchased literally 15 years ago and never quite knew what to do with!
This gown is inspired by an extant garment from the 1660's, because those sleeves are REALLY giving mid-17th century, y'all! Selkie can call them "Marie" gowns all they want, but those sleeves are way more Madame de Montespan than Madame de Pompadour.
Resources:
Lacing ruler from Amped Atelier: https://amped-atelier.square.site
Patterns of Fashion 5: shop.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/product-category/books/?v=79cba1185463
Chapters:
00:00 Making a Selkie Gown for $4
00:57 Anatomy of a Selkie Gown
01:51 Making the skirt
05:32 Making the bodice
08:35 Cutting out the 15-year-old fabric
09:52 Assembling
15:47 The zipper
16:50 Sleeves and trim
20:30 The reveal
Socials:
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Support this channel by buying me a coffee: ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
#selkie #cottagecore #cottagecoredresses
I've been talking about wanting a ruff for ages, and almost everyone I've had the conversation with says the same--they want one! In this video, I talk about my plan to adapt ruffs to the modern eye, then show you how I make a few before gallivanting around in various ruff-clad outfits.
Instead of the masses asking me if I was in a play, the public's reaction was overwhelmingly positive. But one woman does not make a trend, and that's where you come in! I've reached into the unopened box of cookies and grabbed the first snickerdoodle--now it's on you to help devour the whole box! Let's see how many folks we can get to join in the fun--and help make @bernadettebanner 's vision a reality!
Resources:
The free guide to making ruffs: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ruffmake.html
The video that inspired it all: youtu.be/PTXWGAP7Tt0?si=MSyaq2HDEZqAUfd-
Chapters:
00:00 Bernadette Banner Told Me To Make Ruffs Trendy
02:46 Making the ruffs
09:00 Starting the trend
12:39 The results
Socials:
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Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
#bringingruffyback #ruffs #bardcore #elizabethanfashion #trending
Why would I put myself through that? Because y'all. It's SO GORGEOUS.
In this video, I'll take you step by step through how I made this incredible coat from Black Snail Patterns number 0520, the 1890's Skirted Jacket (View A, of course, with the puffiest sleeves EVER!) I'll give you a run down on how to pad stitch, how to work with a fabric that has nap, and give you a detailed explanation on how to do military roll pleats, those bizarre, mind-blowing pleats that give the leg o' mutton sleeve its fantastic puff.
Working with velveteen is a challenge--especially this particular fabric, which has stretch--but despite the extra work, I am SO excited to share this final jacket with you! It's so incredibly gorgeous--and I can't wait to wear it!
In eleven months, when it finally gets cold again...
Resources:
The pattern: blacksnailpatterns.com/en/products/viktorianischer-wintermantel-um-1890-mit-keulenarmeln-schnittmuster-0520-grosse-eu-34-56-pdf-download
The fabric: fabricwholesaledirect.com/products/cotton-velveteen-fabric
Chapters:
00:00 Making an 1890's Coat with temperamental fabrics
00:56 Mocking up the coat
04:33 Cutting with Velveteen
05:27 Assembling the bodice
08:35 Pad stitching 101
10:55 Facing and collar-ing
13:08 Lining the bodice
16:08 Skirt Assembly 80's montage
18:52 Figuring out the military roll pleating
21:27 Finishing touches
23:24 The Reveal
#victorianfashion #victorian #victorianera #1890s
Socials:
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Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
You've probably heard the phrase "Piecing is Period." While true historical accuracy is impossible with the resources now available to us, piecing has always been utilized to save on the most expensive part of any sewing project--the fabric! So when I decided to de-stash this lavender linen into an 1890's/Edwardian fantail skirt, the challenge was fitting all the pattern pieces onto my 2.5 yards of fabric.
It took a little time, but I got there in the end, and I'm so excited to share the results with you! The piecing on the sides and the waistband is barely noticeable, and the skirt has a lovely amount of sweep to swish around while walking.
This is a great project for beginners, or for more advanced makers who need an instant gratification project!
If you enjoyed this video and want to help support this channel, please consider leaving me a one-time tip on my ko-fi page. All donations go towards running this channel, from fabric to filming supplies. ☕🧡 ko-fi.com/fantasticalfollies
Linen is from stash.
Pattern: scrooppatterns.com Note: you can buy the long historical version, the shorter modern version, or one that has both the historical and modern lengths included.
Chapters:
00:00 Making an 1890's Fantail Skirt
02:00 Modifying the pattern
04:06 Tetris-ing the pattern pieces
06:28 Cutting wheel pieces
07:36 Assembling the skirt
11:14 Wheel piece trick
12:37 Adding the waistband
14:53 The reveal
Socials:
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Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
There are right and wrong materials to use, especially within the structural elements of your corsets, stays, and bodies. I know from personal experience--I've made a BUNCH of mistakes in my 15 years of corsetry and staymaking. Including learning the right and wrong kind of boning, which can make (or literally break) your corset.
After talking about what kind of materials you should be using--and how much money you should spend in relation to your particular project--we'll discuss where to actually buy your corsetry supplies, with a detailed run-down of the major corsetry suppliers in the US and which places have the cheapest materials. I'll also talk briefly about some international sites for my folks outside the US 🧡
Resources:
Here are all the websites I mentioned in the video! If you have further instructions, please pop down into the comments and share!
Burnley & Trowbridge: burnleyandtrowbridge.com
Renaissance Fabrics: renaissancefabrics.net
Fabric-Store.com: fabrics-store.com
Richard the Thread: richardthethread.com
Corsetmaking.com: corsetmaking.com
Canada:
Farthingales: farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com
MacFabSews: macfabsews.com
UK/Europe:
Vena Cava: venacavadesign.co.uk
Nehelenia Patterns: http://neheleniapatterns.com
La Rose Passementarie: la-rose-passementarie.com
Alysse Créations: alysse-creations.info
Wissner: https://wissner.de/en
Additional:
Röda Tråden rodatraden.com
Sartor Bohemia https://www.sartor.cz/
Australia/NZ
NZ Corsetry nzcorsetry.co.nz/corsetry-supplies
Spotlight Australia spotlightstores.com
Chapters
00:00 Intro
01:44 What kind of materials should you purchase? 💲
03:51 Material guide: Fashion fabric/lining
07:15 Material guide: Structural elements
12:49 Material guide: Notions
15:46 Where to buy your supplies
21:37 International shops
Socials:
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Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
#corset #beginnerfriendly #corsets #sewingtips #sewing
#sewinghacks #sewingtips #sewingtutorial #sewingtricks #sewinghack
In this video, I make a late-Renaissance gown called a sottana, in the Venetian style! This gown is entirely block printed by hand, embroidered with gold thread and pearls, with some extra sparkly rhinestones that are so fab even Morticia Addams would approve!
The gown also has removable sleeves--both the long sleeves, which are buttoned on, and the short puff sleeves, called baragoni. This makes this gown super versatle, with three fully different looks, depending on how I feel--or how hot it is!
I'm so excited to share the making of this gown! It was a huge undertaking, but I enjoyed it, and can't wait to float around in this baby! The era, character, and even some of the design features were all voted on by you--in participation with my year-long Viewer's Choice project! I've loved The Addams Family since I was a kid, especially its irreverent humor, which...I'm sure you're astonished to hear 😂
PS--for those of you who've been watching since the beginning of the project, there is a VERY special suprise for you after the reveal! I'm so excited to share it with you 🙃🥔
If you'd like to see any more videos in the series, you can find the playlist here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDDxqes4R_osiYJjs8Bm6VUKfCUiF8704
Resources:
The pattern: margospatterns.com/products/copy-of-009-the-italian-lady's-wardrobe
Black quilting cotton from stash
Lumiere metallic fabric paint in "Metallic Gold": dharmatrading.com/paints/lumiere-and-neopaque.html?lnav=paints.html
Stamp: etsy.com/listing/1076644318/damask-style-print-3d-printed-block?ref=yr_purchases
Chapters:
00:00 Morticia Addams in the Italian Renaissance
01:42 Assembling the skirt
02:59 Block printing the gown
05:02 Mocking up
06:27 Stiffening and boning the bodice lol
09:09 Handy tip!
12:03 Morticia takes a nap
12:44 Fixing issues
15:13 Skirt connundrum
18:15 Zee red sleeves
20:40 The Reveal
22:35 Special Spuddie Surprise
Socials:
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Sound effects by Zapsplat zapsplat.com
#victorian #victorianfashion #historicalfashion #historicalcostuming


