The print is just as printed - no smoothing or painting. The result is not perfect but the defects could easily be eliminated by a better pattern removal method. I have to repeat this casting in aluminium as the grandson wants a "silver" one to go with this "gold' one that he will now not let out of his sight. I will do an update when I cast the "silver" one. I will try to make it better. The bronze used is 6.5% aluminium 2.5% silicon pinch iron and Manganese balance copper
Olfoundryman
This is a trial on behalf of Swdweeb. He produced the STL file for this part, Smallcnclathes produced the 3D print, and I made the casting just to see if it was possible to cast such small 3D printed detail.
The print is just as printed - no smoothing or painting. The result is not perfect but the defects could easily be eliminated by a better pattern removal method. I have to repeat this casting in aluminium as the grandson wants a "silver" one to go with this "gold' one that he will now not let out of his sight. I will do an update when I cast the "silver" one. I will try to make it better. The bronze used is 6.5% aluminium 2.5% silicon pinch iron and Manganese balance copper
The print is just as printed - no smoothing or painting. The result is not perfect but the defects could easily be eliminated by a better pattern removal method. I have to repeat this casting in aluminium as the grandson wants a "silver" one to go with this "gold' one that he will now not let out of his sight. I will do an update when I cast the "silver" one. I will try to make it better. The bronze used is 6.5% aluminium 2.5% silicon pinch iron and Manganese balance copper
updated 8 years ago
The print is just as printed - no smoothing or painting. The result is not perfect but the defects could easily be eliminated by a better pattern removal method. I have to repeat this casting in aluminium as the grandson wants a "silver" one to go with this "gold' one that he will now not let out of his sight. I will do an update when I cast the "silver" one. I will try to make it better. The bronze used is 6.5% aluminium 2.5% silicon pinch iron and Manganese balance copper
Here, in part 3 I discuss and demonstrate more complex work using a hydraulic machine to hold and work the dies
Links to full videos etc. :- Spin casting info tekcast.com
Coffee perculator youtu.be/Q4sGl4jOQtA
Gas mixer youtu.be/q4wExjpBiz0
Four barrel throttle body youtu.be/R1ZTvsp16zo
Smallcnclathes youtube.com/user/smallcnclathes
Here, in part 2 I discuss and demonstrate tilt casting
Link to video mentioned youtu.be/G48QR90ur5I
Link to part 1 youtu.be/82KKr3jGxU8
Tilt casting is based on the Durville process developed in France to solve problems of severe oxide skins in aluminium bronze ingots to be rolled into sheet for coin production. Sadly those who adapted the process to more general work were a bit "loose" with their adaption and most machines and foundries make serious mistakes with the method
Here, in part 1 I show the simpler and easier castings Links to videos mentioned:-
Runway light video youtu.be/qJiw32DXTeU
Coffee percolator nut video youtu.be/Q4sGl4jOQtA From 12 minutes
Link to Part 2 youtu.be/pfkIcKx1dnQ
I showed an example of incorrect metal stirring. Stirring of metal is something to be avoided but sometimes it is necessary. Here I show the correct way to do it.
I have obtained the examples of the traps from other's videos. I do this not to denigrate others but rather to provide helpful clues on how to improve. These others shall remain nameless. I hope that all see this video in this light - if so it is my hope to do further videos explaining in more detail and showing preferred methods. I am indebted to EFI Hardware - my customer for these throttle bodies - who have been kind enough to loan this sample to me - Check out there web site for more information on their products at:-
efihardware.com
Note that while my comments in this video refer to green sand, my area of expertise - I think they apply equally to petrobond.
The easy stuff:- Filing, sanding, drilling, and bolting together
My version of the techniques recommended by John Campbell.
These are easy to apply and take no more time than incorrect techniques.
In this part we cast the moulds for 10 of the box sides.
In this part we make the first of 10 (of 16) moulds in which to cast the new sides for two complete moulding boxes
The STL and pdf drawing files for the patterns used here are available for
download at this site
http://www.benchtopcnc.com.au/downloads/
Part 4(b), coming shortly, shows the moulding process in intimate detail for a longer box side both with and without using odd-side pieces.
In this part we cast the trial mould and again lessons learnt here will be used to simplify the process.
The STL and pdf drawing files for the patterns are now available for download at this site
http://www.benchtopcnc.com.au/downloads/
Smallcnclathes has published a short video on the 3D printing of these patterns and you can find it here youtube.com/watch?v=mPeqoJmF5tw
Part 4 where we make the 16 (hopefully 16!) moulds necessary to demonstrate the making of the boxes and the versatility that the system gives is already under way - 10 moulds made!
Here we make a trial mould, Lessons learned from this will be used to further simplify the process.
The STL and pdf drawing files for the patterns will be released with part 3 where we cast this mould.
By swapping sides around (and a few other tricks) boxes can be configured for a wide range of jobs.
The STL files for the patterns will be freely available in the near future.
The gift is a rapping tool to help loosen patterns thus making it easier to remove them without mould damage. I try it out in this video and it works very well indeed.
A gravity diecasting (permanent mould) in 601 (US 356) (UK LM25) aluminium alloy
Part 4:- Removal of the feeder
A gravity die casting (permanent mould casting) in 601 (US 356) (UK LM25) Aluminium alloy
Part 3 :- Applying the die coat and making the castings
A gravity die casting (permanent mould) in 601 (US 356) (UK LM 25) Aluminium alloy
Part 2:- The die, the furnace, and the machine
A gravity die casting (permanent mould) in 601 (US 356) (UK LM25) Aluminium alloy
Part 1:- Making the shell core "funnel"
Overall winner for his octopus opener -Julian HG
Highly commendable for his double ended precision machined opener - Wargrade
Highly commendable for his hammer powered opener -Whatdennisdoes
A big thank you to all who took part
and a special thank you to Perry - Swdweeb for organising it all
and also to Nigel - smallcnclathes - for generously paying the postage.
Relevent links:-
Nigel smallcnclathes channel youtube.com/channel/UCSFn1_FsFGmUSrXjDR--S0A
Swdweeb channel youtube.com/channel/UCAyW0r-deFC-GmzbuG3j3dQ
Whatdennisdoes opener youtube.com/watch?v=4TxRPkKOGq0&t=716s
Julian HG octopus opener youtube.com/watch?v=KBOiYNpyWdE
Wargrade double ended opener (part 1) youtube.com/watch?v=BOfsybQtlto
The hydrogen gas bubbles in these samples measured about 0.15 mm (0.006 inch). Such small holes are almost impossible to see on even a well machined surface but the etching used here shows them in all their infamous glory!
Swdweeb did a series of three videos on the subject of porosity in aluminium castings
The first is at youtube.com/watch?v=OmmEXUnL4_8&t=3s
The second at youtube.com/watch?v=VcQ0hH9D94U
The third at youtube.com/watch?v=jQwUG2Sblr8&t=1s
Check them out they are all worth a look for the serious caster trying to improve his castings.
Make an opener, do a video of the process, upload the video on May 24th. Use the tag
#2019openersopen
I will giver a prize to who I judge to be the winner, see my video above. But remember your opener must work.
Get amongst it for a bit of fun.
GOOD LUCK
The pouring basin used here is an older outmoded design and efforts are under way to produce the more modern offset ridged basin that I now prefer to use.
The unusual parting line on this part requires the use of an oddside.
I recommend watching parts 1, 2, and 3a first.
Part 3b which is yet to come will cover the pouring of the moulds plus a short discussion / explanation and including a look at the finished machined piston
Part 2 Making the sodium silicate/CO2 cores and pouring basins.
Here I make the cores that will be used to form the inside of the pistons. Also I make some John Campbell inspired pouring basins to sit atop the sprue. Later, in Part 3 of this video series, I put these components together with a rammed sand mould and the chills made in part 1 and cast the pistons.
Here I cast some chills that will be used to improve the structure and decrease the porosity of some pistons to be cast later in Part 3 of this video series. The chills them selves will also be chill cast as they are quite thick and "chunky". The chill casting is a definite aid in making such castings much sounder and finer grained.
Part 2 of this series - to be released soon - will cover the reinforced Silicate CO2 core that will form the inside of the piston mould.
This was not the easiest job that I have ever done!
This was not the easiest job that I have ever done!
The blue wash put on the "doughnut" cores is "Isomol 185" by "Foseco" It is an alcohol based zircon wash and it helps to improve the otherwise rough surface finish that silicate cores give
Part 2, coming soon, shows these cores being used to make the Aluminium castings
A 3D print, smoothed with body filler and primer surfacer paint, followed by sanding, was used as the pattern.
A quick easy casting.
Part 1 "Casting the lens blank masters" can be seen here youtube.com/watch?v=hVdLDFAgJBg
Part 2 "Casting the lens blank die" can be seen here youtube.com/watch?v=mYM0Swgd5lI
Part 3 "Tilt casting explanation" can be seen here youtube.com/watch?v=rEHr9yCvz_0
This video is an explanation of the tilt casting process that I use to do this casting
Part 1 of this video - Casting the lens blank masters, can be seen here youtube.com/watch?v=hVdLDFAgJBg
Part 2 of this video - Casting the lens blank die, can be seen here
youtube.com/watch?v=mYM0Swgd5lI
Part 4 of this video - Lens blank gravity die casting, can be seen here youtube.com/watch?v=G48QR90ur5I
Three blocks were cast in a piston alloy; One was the die block containing two cavities for the lens blanks, the other two were for the top half of the die into which the feeder cavities will be cut.
Part 1 of this video , "Casting the lens blank masters" can be found here youtube.com/watch?v=hVdLDFAgJBg&t=176s
Part 3 of this video , An explanation of tilt casting can be found here youtube.com/watch?v=rEHr9yCvz_0
Part 4 of this video - Lens blank gravity die casting, can be seen here youtube.com/watch?v=G48QR90ur5I
Part 1 covers; Casting some bronze masters for casting an aluminium die around
The bronze is 6.5% aluminium 2.5% silicon balance copper with maybe just a dash of iron and manganese.
Pauls garage video for that small sprue example
youtube.com/watch?v=BoJhtdGVSw0
Part 2 of this video series - Casting the lens blank die can be seen at youtu.be/mYM0Swgd5lI
Part 3 of this series - An explanation of tilt casting, can be seen here youtube.com/watch?v=rEHr9yCvz_0
Part 4 of this series - Lens blank gravity die casting, can be found here youtube.com/watch?v=G48QR90ur5I
Lots of furnace to heat up for a little molten Bronze!
youtube.com/watch?v=7XhiCxoUunU
youtube.com/watch?v=mOfkQPmX2sE&t=5s
The casting is first bolted and doweled to the cross slide and than drilled/reamed in place to ensure correct tool height.
This block is offset so that it can be (initially) positioned with the length of tooling in mind.
The weight of 2 Kg mentioned is the as cast weight. Alloy used was 601 (356) (LM 25) and it was given a T5 heat treatment.
The pouring basin used here is designed ;-
to give the pourer a decent target to aim at
to reduce metal velocity at the sprue base
to do so with the minimum metal turbulence
The basin should be close to one side of the mould and needs to be poured from that side with the crucible lip as close to the top of the basin as possible. The pour needs to be steady and must always keep the basin full.
This design was much used around 1900 however the need to use properly sized and tapered sprues was unknown until around 1950. As a result the good effects of this basin design were largely destroyed by placing it atop a large parallel sprue that was often also unnecessarily high. In an exercise reminiscent of throwing out the baby and keeping the bathwater the use of the basin was abandoned but that of the large parallel sprue continued and sadly, in many cases it is still in use.
John Campbell revived the use of this basin design and it features in many of his books. The basin that is used here is our interpretation of his designs. The sprue that is used here has a bottom diameter of 8 mm and a taper of 1.3 degrees per side.
We have available two STL files of this basin they are male and female so they give a good idea of what the basin should look like. If you would like a copy of these files please PM me with an email address that I can send them to.
The pouring basin used here is designed ;-
to give the pourer a decent target to aim at
to reduce metal velocity at the sprue base
to do so with the minimum metal turbulence
The basin should be close to one side of the mould and needs to be poured from that side with the crucible lip as close to the top of the basin as possible. The pour needs to be steady and must always keep the basin full.
This design was much used around 1900 however the need to use properly sized and tapered sprues was unknown until around 1950. As a result the good effects of this basin design were largely destroyed by placing it atop a large parallel sprue that was often also unnecessarily high. In an exercise reminiscent of throwing out the baby and keeping the bathwater the use of the basin was abandoned but that of the large parallel sprue continued and sadly, in many cases it is still in use.
John Campbell revived the use of this basin design and it features in many of his books. The basin that is used here is our interpretation of his designs. The sprue that is used here has a bottom diameter of 8 mm and a taper of 1.3 degrees per side.
We have available two STL files of this basin they are male and female so they give a good idea of what the basin should look like. If you would like a copy of these files please PM me with an email address that I can send them to.
This casting shows close to modern thinking on correct running and gating methods for castings. It could be further improved by forming the runner and gate better - more uniformly by perhaps making a patterns for these parts of the mould. Also a ceramic filter placed between the bottom of the sprue and the gate would further help by slowing metal speed (but not increasing fill time)and by removing some of the inevitable oxide films contained in the metal.
Despite these possible improvements the gating shown here is a reasonable and practical attempt at good practice - it is applicable to the casting of most metals.
NOTE:- The reference book title shown at 2.14 should be "Complete Casting Handbook".
This part was developed to solve the problem of refilling the fluid reservoir on an "under the floor " brake master cylinder. The part mounts under the bonnet on the fire wall and a pipe connects it to the top of the original master cylinder reservoir.
This is done while the sand is hot from casting - old timers believe that adding the water while the sand is still hot "steams" the sand and this helps reinvigorate the clay. I think they are probably right.
This machine can clog if the sand is very strong - typically when the sand is new or a bit too wet. However once the sand has been used a few times it processes quite quickly without any clogging. I suspect that if the machine was that few inches bigger this clogging would not occur.
I do not know if this machine would reprocess petrobond properly but my guess is that it would particularly if that little bit bigger.


