The Entire History of The Met Gala understitch, 2024-04-27 | The Met Gala, now held in the Anna Wintour Costume Institute, has a long and storied history, truly beginning as a fund raising event conceived by Eleanor Lambert, it changed the way that the two Lewisohn sisters' collection would be perceived forever. After many many years, many exhibitions and many galas, we saw it grow from simple an in-crowd party to a celebrity filled costume party, but all with the same goal of raising money for the Costume Institute to continue. At this point, the gala is an international phenomenon and loved by many, but for very good reason.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchMost photos used not from The Met themselves or from clearly noted institutions are from Getty images under their fair use for editorial terms. Nevertheless each living photographer was contacted individually also and credited thusly. Met Costume Institute Archives:libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/search/order/title/ad/ascAffiliate Links for Books/Documentaries Used:Bernstein (1987) An Actor's Daughter: amzn.to/3VNISBaDwight (2002) Diana Vreeland: An Illustrated Biography: amzn.to/49qjPHDDiana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel (2011), Directed by Vreeland, Tcheng and Perlmutt: amzn.to/4aOlyaBVreeland (2011) D.V.: amzn.to/3PXUKN4Stewart (2012) Empress of Fashion: A Life of Diana Vreeland: amzn.to/4auidhbFirst Monday in May (2016), Directed by Rossi: amzn.to/3xvoZEPTalley (2020) The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir: amzn.to/3PX0DdHOdell (2022) Anna: The Biography: amzn.to/43SyfyS
The Rise and Fall of Sisters Apparel by James Charles understitch, 2025-06-21 | Go to surfshark.com/understitchyt or use code UNDERSTITCHYT at checkout to get 4 extra months of Surfshark VPN!James Charles' brand is an interesting case of an influencer brand that despite trying repeatedly, could not buck the trend of the fast rise and fast fall of celebrity brands. Certainly it was elongated due to the implementation of collection based drops, however, as time went on, interest naturally dwindled and the brand was shuttered in 2022, fully closing in 2023. Today the brand doesn't exist, but remains an interesting case study for modern day celebrity brands and why they struggle to maintain a repeat customer in a manner that becomes retained interestBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchBUY MY BOOK: amzn.to/3ReT95MUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:
I Discovered Forgotten Fashion Content understitch, 2025-06-07 | When I embarked on this journey, I didn't expect it to be so interesting, but I hope you also enjoyed the journey with me. Im so excited to have it available now for all of you, for free and public on my patreon ( patreon.com/understitch ). If anyone has any information about the SS73 Loewe x Chloe collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld please do contact me ( contact@understitch.co.uk ) so we can uncover more of their illustrious history!Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchBUY MY BOOK: amzn.to/3ReT95MUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:
The Bag That Saved Stella McCartney understitch, 2025-05-17 | Stella McCartney was on the brink of closure in 2009. They desperately needed something, anything that would hit the public consciousness and turn them into a desirable brand , able to compete with the other brands under the Gucci Group umbrella. It had taken them five years, but they finally had it; the Falabella Bag. What started as a celebrity it bag, today it's an icon of timeless, sustainable style for both its sleek and chic look and animal cruelty free perspective. It saved the company. But more than that, it became an important monument of human growth and evolution, striving for constant improvementBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchBUY MY BOOK: amzn.to/3ReT95MUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Man Who Made Vogue: The Life and Death of Condé Nast understitch, 2025-04-26 | Condé Nast is so synonymous with publishing today that many people forget (or dont know) that he was a real person. From fairly humble roots, he grew to the absolute top of the New York social register thanks to his forward thinking, great curiosity and risk taking. Best of all his actions, for the most part, have kept up for today, I assume because he was just so far ahead of the game. Actually, my favourite fact about Condé is related to this, but isn't in this biography, so I'll tell you here; it's that he introduced and helped to popularise Josephine Baker in the US! She was already famous in France, but he aided her transition into the American market. If you look closely you can see her in one of the pictures though!USE COUPERT TODAY!: coupert.com/join-coupert?ref=understitchyt-1743436800&m=youtube0:00 Introduction1:35 Chapter 1: A Methodist Birth3:59 Chapter 2: Rising Up7:38 Chapter 3: Collier's14:00 Chapter 4: The Fire That Made Vogue17:09 Chapter 5: Vogue24:01 Chapter 6: The Great War28:18 Chapter 7: The Roaring Twenties34:20 Chapter 8: Grave Problems44:27 Chapter 9: 192751:30 Chapter 10: A Wedding and a Crash59:49 Chapter 11: Cash Poor, Asset Rich1:08:09 Chapter 12: How Kindness Saved Vogue1:15:24 Chapter 13: World War Two1:21:12 Chapter 14: A Morbid SecretBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchBUY MY BOOK: amzn.to/3ReT95MUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The SSENSE Controversy understitch, 2025-04-05 | SSENSE has changed the online fashion industry with their one-stop-shop approach combined with a hyper-focus on selling designer items for the lowest possible price. It's a retailing strategy as old as time, but this is really the first time that we are seeing this for the luxury fashion sector, who traditionally sold with an inflated high price based on exclusivity. It has, over time, left a few disgruntled small brands who feel like SSENSE undercut their price point at other retailers, reducing their stockists, while then having no trouble in stopping stocking the brand if and when they stop selling. This, naturally affects predominantly smaller brands, which is why it became a small controversy, but realistically, this is just an evolution in the democratisation of fashion that was started so many years ago. Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchBUY MY BOOK: amzn.to/3ReT95MUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:
Loewe: The Jonathan Anderson Years understitch, 2025-03-17 | Jonathan Anderson marked a huge change at Loewe, one so rarely embarked on successfully. He effectively turned around a brand that was ready for a sale into one of the top brands under the whole of LVMH. It was certainly unexpected given the three previous attempts at keeping the brand afloat didn't see the success needed, but a more than welcome surprise nonetheless. Today, as Jonathan is said to leave Loewe for the rumoured Dior top spot, this marks the end of that journey and brings hope for the next chapter of the brandBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchBUY MY BOOK: amzn.to/3ReT95MUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Suspiciously Fast Rise of Blue Elephant understitch, 2025-03-08 | Blue Elephant became famous for being the cheap Gentle Monster. A Korean sunglasses brand that with phenomenal marketing has made themselves the 'it' brand for anyone interested in Korean culture, though predominantly K-pop whose stars have routinely endorsed the brand. Though, easily the biggest rumour following the brand today is wether they are made in the same factory as Gentle Monster. A question I am pretty sure I have solved the mystery toBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
Isabella Blow: The Woman Who Discovered Alexander McQueen understitch, 2025-02-15 | MY BOOK ON ISABELLA: amzn.to/3CQS2prIsabella Blow was an enigma in fashion and a talent like hers has never been matched in the years since her passing. The seminal force behind Philip Treacy, Sophie Dahl, Honor Fraser, Plum Sykes, Jeremy Scott, Alexander McQueen and London Fashion Week itself, Isabella's influence was felt for decades. She was a force to be reckoned with and will be sorely missed.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:Croll (2016) Bad Girls of Fashion : Style Rebels from Cleopatra to Lady Gaga: amzn.to/4aS6JVYWilson (2016) Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath the Skin: amzn.to/3EoE66tBlow (2011) Blow by Blow: amzn.to/4jQMOuDCrowe (2010) Isabella Blow: A Life in Fashion: amzn.to/4jJoZ7VRink (2010) Isabella Blow: amzn.to/4hqaJz8Blow (2003) When Philip Met Isabella: amzn.to/4hLGKkWThomas (2016) Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano: amzn.to/3ED8wSrCallahan (2014) Champagne supernovas: amzn.to/4hq0SJQ
The Rise and Fall of Kanye West understitch, 2025-02-01 | Ye is an incredibly divisive person in the world of popular culture, however, in fashion it's hard to deny his influence over the last ten years thanks to his Yeezy brand. Only, in order for that to happen Kanye West, his namesake brand, would have to be sacrificed in order to make all of that possible. Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Rise and Fall of Djerf Avenue by Matilda Djerf understitch, 2025-01-11 | Djerf Avenue for a couple of years was on a very strong upwards trajectory thanks to its great customer retention plan and solid ethical marketing plan. However, while the brand has seen success mostly in Matilda Djerf's personal fan base, it actually does have a differentiator in the larger fashion scene; it's the antithesis of fast fashion. Of course, this is mostly a differentiator solely based on stock replenishment, turning a shortcoming into a positive, but much like The Body Shop or Lush before it, Djerf Avenue well congealed this into a unique point of view for the brand at large. It's great marketing and does offer the brand a tangible differentiator in the larger fashion industry. For this reason, I think Djerf Avenue is actually quite strong as a concept but it also means its biggest strength is it's biggest weakness; Matilda Djerf herself. She comes with a pre-established audience, allowing for the brand to boast financial success very early, but because it hinges on the popularity of a singular person it leaves them vulnerable to scandal. Unfortunately this is seemingly what is happening now over the last two years, but *if* they are able to weather it, it looks like the brand may last for longer than the average influencer or celebrity brand. The only thing is, it's a big "IF"Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Entire History of Loewe understitch, 2024-12-14 | Loewe is easily one of the most influential brands of the last 10 years thanks to creative director Jonathan Anderson. But did you know that for almost 20 years before he arrived, their finances were best described as "only marginally unprofitable" and LVMH had long sought a buy out. In fact, these were some of the worst years in the entire history of Loewe, because before the LVMH acquisition had had 150 years of incredible accolades and growth even including an early royal warrant from 1905. Fortunately for us, today those 17 years of losses are a distant memory as for the last decade we have seen the brand grow from strength to strength under Jonathan Anderson's watchful eye to where now it is one of the most anticipated shows each and every season. Of course, no success comes without difficulties, but for the most part Loewe has been the solid ground of creative fashion giving inspiration crafted from a love of art and fabrication that distills the brand to that one word of 'craft' that can summarise the history of the brand so succinctly. From its foundation of Madrid's famous leather craftsman, to crafting through the war, to Javier Carvajal's store design, to Francisco Ferrer Bartolomé's windows, to the Loewe Craft Prize and even today where they share their crafting process on social media. Loewe is craft. And I hope that continues well into the future.0:00 Intro1:14 Chapter 1: The Mysterious Origin of Loewe7:37 Chapter 2: The Arrival of Loewe14:50 Chapter 3: Loewe Becomes Loewe18:43 Chapter 4: Loewe Dies... Twice22:31 Chapter 5: Enrique, Germán and The Spanish Civil War29:38 Chapter 6: Loewe vs Loewe38:13 Chapter 7: Vincente Vela and Javier Carvajal57:06 Chapter 8: Ready-To-Wear1:06:58 Chapter 9: Sold1:21:08 Chapter 10: LVMH1:33:18 Chapter 11: Narciso Rodriguez1:48:31 Chapter 12: Jose Enrique Oña Selfa2:01:42 Chapter 13: Stuart Vevers2:10:24 Chapter 14: Limbo2:16:28 Chapter 15: Jonathan AndersonBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Mysterious Origin of Loewe understitch, 2024-11-23 | Loewe is one of the hottest brands in the world, but don't you find it weird that there one of very few brands who actually dont have a named founder? Its weird. But what's weirder is that the brand is named after someone else, who only came to the brand twenty years after it began! Its a huge mystery and just this one part alone has taken weeks of research thus far, so while I work on the longer video, I hope you find my thought process as interesting as I haveBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:Yeah, nobody's buying that Loewe book, I'm not even bothering hahaha
The Rise and Fall of Vetements understitch, 2024-11-02 | 👒🔍 Download June’s Journey for free now using my link: https://woo.ga/p1zme6lkVetements, for two years, was all anyone in fashion could talk about. With each collection we waited with baited breath. However, almost as soon as Demna left for Balenciaga, that came to a halt and almost immediately people stopped caring. This potentially affected sales, thats actually unclear, but its true creatively it was second hash to Balenciaga, especially after Demna vacated. Even today as I was prepared to see a new upwards trajectory with an evolution into continued themes and a push in promotion suggesting a new take on the brands ethos, they proved none of that to be purposeful and showed a randomly influenced collection for SS25 that even included strong references to other design houses in Balenciaga. Im at least interested to see where it will go, even if it fails, but the brand has lost its original founding principles and, frankly, is now a huge disappointmentBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Rise and Fall of Sean John by Puff Daddy (aka P. Diddy) understitch, 2024-10-19 | Sean Combs (aka Puff Daddy, Puffy, P. Diddy and Diddy) grew Sean John to massive success in the late 1990s and early 2000s, however, due to some overly ambitious expansion plans, they just never were able to recuperate the money spent. They seemed to believe that the hype train around the brand would never die and the sales would continue on as they did in the height, however, as interest began to wane, the brand failed to get consumers back causing the brand, with its flanderised design, to become less and less interesting. They were fortunate in their sale and repurchase, but with all the recent revelations around the founder, there is simply no way the company will ever recoverBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:Affuso & Scott (2023) Sartorial Fandom: amzn.to/48aBILwGodin (2008) Tribes
Does Fashion Need Coperni? understitch, 2024-10-02 | Coperni is one of the buzziest brand each and every season at Paris Fashion Week, and frankly, this is because of phenomenal PR. From shock marketed moments to hyped products, Coperni has been consistently promoted to keep their brand front of thought. They, tied in with an affordable price point, they brand becomes not only desirable but consumable for a large number of people. Coperni will be a hot brand as long as they can keep this up, and I genuinely cannot wait to see how high their star can riseBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Fall and Rise of Valentino understitch, 2024-09-21 | Valentino is an institution in fashion design, from it's days of Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti working on it as a fledgling company, to today with sales in the hundreds of millions, the company has come so far on slow fashion, evolving the design language over the many years to keep up with the times, maybe not doing it first, but doing it best. So now, after Pierpaolo Piccioli had truly departed, in its fifth iteration, Michele is primed to continue that torch of solid, confident design that you can rely on returning to season after seasonBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:Pelle and Mauriès (1991) Valentino: Thirty Years of Magic: amzn.to/4dKtNWMMorris (1996) Valentino: Universe of Fashion: amzn.to/46PuImmGolbin (2008) Valentino: Themes and Variations: amzn.to/4dHH5UxMenkes (2009) Valentino: A Grand Italian Epic: amzn.to/4drQP52Reis (2013) Valentino: Famous Fashion Designers: amzn.to/4dsucNVValentino the Last Emperor (2008) Directed by Matt Tynauer: amzn.to/46Pz8dcSecrest (2014) Elsa Schiaparelli: A Biography: amzn.to/3WOJUvETalley (2020) The Chiffon Trenches: amzn.to/4fL67TTMiddleton (2023) Paradise Now: amzn.to/3YQVfOwButtolph (2002) The Fashion Book: amzn.to/3M88WB5Jones (2005) Fashion Now 2: amzn.to/3yIW4y2Steele (2012) Fashion Designers A - Z: amzn.to/3M9dQxpPolan and Tredre (2020) The Great Fashion Designers: amzn.to/3MvkqihOther internet links consulted in this video (this is not all online sources, but a good majority):hbr.org/1991/09/the-designer-organization-italys-gft-goes-globalnytimes.com/2008/01/27/fashion/shows/27PARIS.htmlnytimes.com/2002/03/28/news/valentino-sale-reveals-sour-market-for-highend-firms-luxury-has-gone.htmlfibre2fashion.com/news/fashion-news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=14578&page=1nytimes.com/2008/01/27/fashion/shows/27PARIS.htmltheguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/feb/28/fashion.jesscartnermorleybusinessoffashion.com/people/alessandra-facchinetti/#:~:text=She%20was%20dismissed%20from%20Valentino,of%20strategy%20for%20the%20brand.nytimes.com/2008/10/05/style/05iht-rval2.1.16694384.htmlitalist.com/magazine/what-is-the-difference-between-red-valentino-and-valentino-garavani/?srsltid=AfmBOooA9T0OCoPe6sF9h6mTMA8j419G1mCEC7I7rzLp9MByJP76nTjfharpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a37561/when-bazaar-met-valentino-designers-maria-grazia-chiuri-and-pierpaolo-piccioli10magazine.com/pierpaolo-piccioli-leaves-valentinoharpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a37561/when-bazaar-met-valentino-designers-maria-grazia-chiuri-and-pierpaolo-picciolivoguebusiness.com/story/companies/pierpaolo-piccioli-is-leaving-valentinothecut.com/2012/07/valentino-sold-to-mayhoola-for-858-million.htmltheguardian.com/world/2012/jul/12/valentino-slips-italian-hands-qatarivogue.co.uk/article/valentino-sold-permira-half-a-billion-saleharpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/news/a37561/when-bazaar-met-valentino-designers-maria-grazia-chiuri-and-pierpaolo-picciolivogue.com/article/valentino-maria-grazia-chiuri-pierpaolo-piccioli-interview-cfda-awardvoguebusiness.com/story/companies/pierpaolo-piccioli-is-leaving-valentinonytimes.com/1975/04/11/archives/valentino-revives-elegance-for-a-chilly-april-in-paris.htmlpehub.com/qatar-investment-group-buys-valentino-fashionwwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/gallery/valentino-through-the-years-the-glam-teamnytimes.com/1971/08/01/archives/article-1-no-title-kenmore-formula-facts-plus-instinct.htmlnytimes.com/1971/01/22/archives/valentino-revivifies-fashions-of-40s.htmlnytimes.com/1975/12/01/archives/along-fifth-ave-the-signs-have-an-italian-accent.htmlnytimes.com/1982/09/19/magazine/fashion-a-show-of-success.htmlwwd.com/feature/article-1091029-1805842wsj.com/articles/SB1017262542764466000
The Rise and Fall of L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani understitch, 2024-09-07 | L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani started off on a rocky foot, but within a few years it found its footing in promotion, becoming much more respected in the fashionable world. However, following the fading star of Gwen Stefani as a celebrity in general, the brand could not succeed in continuing without her.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Secret Behind Zara’s Success understitch, 2024-08-24 | Zara has consistently maintained a top place in the high street from its founding in 1975 until today. From their incredible logistics to their focus on online retailing, they consistantly maintained a high level of desirability in their consumers, a high level of buzz and interest that keeps people coming back time and time again. It may not be the same business that got them the respect of the academics once upon a time, but it has successfully adapted into a business that is special in a whole new wayBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:Berger (2005) How We Compete What Companies Around the World Are Doing to Make it in Today's Global Economy: amzn.to/3WOtcxJ
The Industry-Defying Success of Bode understitch, 2024-08-10 | Bode has been on an endless upwards trajectory since its debut in 2016. They've opened three retail stores and have shown presentations or catwalks in both Paris and New York. But how have they managed to keep up this success? In honesty, I cannot tell if the company is profitable. Media success doesn't always translate into sales. However, with the seemingly organic celebrity fanbase and interesting differentiator within the industry, it's certainly possible they are making a small profit. I am, however, interested in what their game plan is. I don't think Emily is in the position to take over a design role at a major house in order to earn enough to sustain the business and generally speaking they seem switched on enough to know it's advisable to have a long term strategy for after the boom to ensure survival in the inevitable rough months all brands go through. So for this reason Im curious to know if the brand will be sold on in that case, if their goal is to build brand value until it is able to make them a tidy profit? Whatever it may be, unfortunately we simply cannot know until they choose to tell us. So for now, I'm just glad to see someone pushing the boundaries of what luxury fashion retail can be, because if it is as profitable as it seems, that is such a significant achievement.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Rise and Fall of Biba understitch, 2024-07-27 | The original Biba store lasted only 12 years, but made an incredible impact on the fashion and the retailing worlds. The first store to utilise low lighting and loud music, the first the have communal changing rooms, the first to sell seemingly unrelated ancillary products like diaries, the list of innovations made by this team of two (Barbara Hulanicki and her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon) is as long as your arm. So why then did it fall? Well, they never moved the business over from its original sole trader status, which it's always advised to do when a business starts making anywhere near serious money, and it left them vulnerable to the affects of bankruptcy. So, when they made one catalogue that didn't sell as well as the others, it left them desperate, soon establishing Biba Ltd. with three other partners who at first seemed great, but soon turned sour.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:Hulanicki (2014) The Biba Years: amzn.to/3zv0bxLHulanicki (2018) A to Biba: amzn.to/3WcEQStGonzalez (2018) Chronicles of a Fashion Buyer: amzn.to/3VXRMdAThomas & Turner (2024) Welcome to Big Biba: amzn.to/4cM6sUJ
The Rise of Craig Green ... and then London Fashion Week understitch, 2024-07-13 | The first 500 people to use my link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare https://skl.sh/understitch07241Craig Green is one of the biggest stars in menswear today, that's undeniable. But, he has somewhat been let down by the system that is supposed to uplift him. It wasn't inherently London Fashion Week's fault, initially they also were caught between a rock and a hard place. But their decision not to revert back to a Mens and Women's individualised fashion weeks, perhaps with a Non-Binary Day, limits the events quite significantly. Of course, I always want the best for London Fashion Week and for Craig Green, but given the history of London designers failing to keep up and the country's reputation of not properly funding it's textile industry, I'm always worried for our finest designers. Currently Craig Green is one of our top designers, both commercially in the niche luxury space and critically, so I do trust that he has a great team and they are making the right decisions.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Life and Death of Elsa Schiaparelli understitch, 2024-06-22 | Elsa was the genius of her generation. Out selling any other designer by far and inventing countless designs over her years. Newspaper print, decorative zippers, the women's suit, the backwards suit, the wrap dress and culottes are just some of the many inventions made first by Schiaparelli. But what of the woman behind the genius?00:00 Intro01:03 Chapter 1: CHILDHOOD24:05 Chapter 2: LONDON, PARIS & AMERICA. LOVE, MARRIAGE & DIVORCE48:28 Chapter 3: A RETURN TO PARIS59:50 Chapter 4: THE BEGINNINGS OF SCHIAPARELLI1:18:29 Chapter 5: SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS1:40:30 Chapter 6: WORLD WAR TWO1:56:04 Chapter 7: SUSPICION2:10:46 Chapter 8: EXILE2:16:52 Chapter 9: THE POST-WAR, THE DEMISE AND THE DEATHBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate links for books used:Adlington (2021) The Dressmakers of Auschwitz: amzn.to/457NZ1SBaudot (1997) Fashion Memoir: Elsa Schiaparelli (I don't think it's on Amazon)BillyBoy* (2016) Frocking Life: Searching for Elsa Schiaparelli: amzn.to/453GDw6Blum (2003) Shocking: The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli: amzn.to/3yEjfZTCarron de la Carrière (2022) Shocking: Life Between the Lines: amzn.to/3UWCq8UGolbin (2016) Couture Confessions: Fashion Legends in Their Own Words: amzn.to/4aL5F4vHoskins (2016) Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion: amzn.to/4e62IOWKennett (1984) Secrets of the Couturiers: amzn.to/3R7HF4AMilbank (1985) Couture: The Great Fashion Designers: amzn.to/3RvU6HJSchiaparelli (1954) Shocking Life: amzn.to/4dWCMoRSecrest (2014) Elsa Schiaparelli: A Biography: amzn.to/3V1SbvjVolk (2013) The Art of Being a Woman: My Mother, Schiaparelli and Me: amzn.to/3KnLZsrWhite (1986) Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Paris Fashion: amzn.to/4aKaKK8Wilcox & Mendes (2009) Twentieth-Century Fashion in Detail: amzn.to/3yPFWKG
The Rise and Fall of J.Crew understitch, 2024-06-08 | J.Crew, from it's beginnings as a mail-order catalogue, through to it's brick and mortar expansion had always been a pillar of the American retail system. However, after a long series of failed revamp attempts after their preppy style fell out of style, J.Crew has simply struggled to keep up. Their logistics was too clunky to be sufficiently nimble and eventually they lost their audience. Today, though still trying to compete, the market is truly flooded with other similar, and often more desirable, brands that effectively deliver a similar product thats more desirable. There's still time before the clock runs out, but certainly since declaring bankruptcy they need another great run if they hope to surviveBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Affiliate Links for Books Used:Bullock (2023) The Kingdom of Prep: The Inside Story of the Rise and (Near) Fall of J.Crew: amzn.to/3VoCxLQThomas (2019) Fashionopolis: Why What We Wear Matters: amzn.to/3V80y8r
The Rise and Fall-ish of Paco Rabanne understitch, 2024-05-25 | Secure your privacy with Surfshark! Enter coupon code UNDERSTITCH for an extra 4 months free at https://surfshark.deals/understitchPaco Rabanne, known now only as Rabanne, was once one of the biggest brands of the 1960s, but after failing to innovate designs into the 1980s its been a slow decline into fashion obscurity, fully closing in the 2000s. However, while that happened, the fragrance side of the business stayed booming, allowing for the brand name to continue to hold value up until an eventual rebrand after Paco Rabanne's passing in 2023. The rebrand has been going shakily so far, it's not bad inherently, but it's lacking that cohesion that's necessary to bring people back to a sleeping beauty brand. In this video I offer suggestions on how exactly I would move forward.Affiliate Links for Books Used:Rabanne (1994) Has The Countdown Begun? Through Darkness to Enlightenment: amzn.to/4alduxHRabanne (1999) Journey: amzn.to/3QqNo5eRabanne (1999) Le Feu du Ciel: amzn.to/3QwAnH4Steele (2004) Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion: amzn.to/3y4D5NIBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Life and Death of Karl Lagerfeld understitch, 2024-05-18 | Download Love & Pies here: pixly.go2cloud.org/SH4LLThanks to Love & Pies for sponsoring!Karl Lagerfeld is arguably the worlds most influential modern designer, reviving not one but four fashion houses to relevance, even when it seemed to most that that was impossible (especially for Fendi and Chanel). This video that looks through the life of Karl Lagerfeld is meant to be a reminder of everything he did throughout his glittering career. Especially with the recent negative press his name is getting coming into the met gala, I think its at least important to understand his influence in the fashion worldBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchPhotos in this video are predominantly from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest. Where not from these sites, each photographer whose work is used in this project, if alive, has been contacted and permission has been granted for use. I would particularly like to thank famed photographer Guy Marineau for the extensive archive he shared.Affiliate Links for Books Used:André Leon Talley - The Chiffon Trenches: amzn.to/3uGN364Karl Lagerfeld - The Karl Lagerfeld Diet: amzn.to/46ER0WAWilliam Middleton - Paradise Now: The Extraordinary Life of Karl Lagerfeld: amzn.to/3uGMYPO0:00 Intro1:15 Karl's Father Otto Lagerfeldt3:04 Germany in 19333:29 Political Views and Parental Influence5:55 Childhood12:08 Paris13:16 Balmain and The Woolmark Prize18:34 Jean Patou20:36 Freelance (Valentino and Tiziani) 21:25 Chloé23:18 Fendi24:38 Life Interrupted26:05 Jacques de Bascher and Yves Saint Laurent34:48 Chanel's First Offer36:33 Karl's Mother Elisabeth Lagerfeldt37:15 Chanel's Second Offer43:30 Karl Lagerfeld TM45:54 An Unforgettable Sickness49:05 Karl Changed54:12 The Karl Lagerfeld Diet56:41 Sebastien Jondeau57:28 Karl, The Icon59:30 Karl Gets Sick
The Rise and Fall of MatchesFashion understitch, 2024-05-11 | MatchesFashion was once one of the biggest names in luxury online retailing. It had a very loyal customer base both on and offline for it's great mix of upcoming and established brands. However, following a $1 billion sale to APAX partners, all of that was lost in three years, causing them to go into administration in 2024. It a real blow to luxury commerce, but it's even more of a blow to the young designers they once championed. They're now stuck in limbo waiting for any news as to what will happen with their product or if they will see any payment for their delivered goods. It's a very trepidatious situation and for now, one that doesn't have a clear end point.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchUnless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
The Fall and Fall of Daya by Zendaya (& Law Roach) understitch, 2024-04-20 | Zendaya is one of the biggest celebrities in the world today, so why did her fashion line Daya by Zendaya (previously called Sole of Daya) fail right from the get go? It had good celebrity endorsement, good production, good margins from said production. But really, honestly, I think the failure of this brand was set from the beginning due to timing. Frankly, because her celebrity status was in a state of transition, it was just unfortunately timed to capitalise on how she was perceived by fans. If the brand was launched today, especially if it was still designed by Law Roach, I don't personally believe they would have seen the difficulty in finding appropriate stockists in the way that they did. Simply, back in 2015, they banked too much on a fanbase that wasn't quite there yet and as a result lost out. Fortunately because of the way the production was set up in the license, it doesn't seem it was too much of a financial risk, but it's still a shame to see a brand with so much potential fade into the shell it is today.Photos in this video are from Getty Images under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Fall of American Apparel understitch, 2024-04-06 | American Apparel was once one of the biggest high street brands in the world. With indie sleaze ads that caught the consumers eye, Made in USA promise as well as their guarantee of workers rights, they differentiated themselves both in front and behind the scenes. However, the rise was short lived after in 2005 the sales began to dip and debt began to rise, causing the company to go public in order to remain on top. Then followed several years of questionable book keeping, trouble amongst the business heads and scandalous lawsuits about the founders workplace misconduct, the company saw even further troubles as both sales dipped and the stock price plummetedBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Fall of Elizabeth and James understitch, 2024-03-23 | Elizabeth and James today is often remembered as The Row's diffusion line. And though it worked in that manner to help Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen fund The Row in the beginning, it quickly grew from cash cow to star brand for them, standing alone as a successful brand. In fact, Elizabeth and James was significantly more financially successful than The Row for many years and yet quickly made its demise when the company was taken in house, away from it's licensor, and the Olsen twins attempted a rebranding of much higher quality quiet luxury pieces at an affordable price point that just failed to hit the mark. Taking a once well loved brand and removing it from it's already dedicated audience in a way that shows that retailing is seldom about what the owner wants to sell, but what the customer wants to buy. As a result, sales were abysmal, logistics were hard to recuperate and rather quickly the parent company Dualstar was forced to pull the plug ending the line for the once well-loved brand.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Sartorial Fandom: amzn.to/3T91pWS
The Life and Death of Alexander McQueen understitch, 2024-03-02 | Lee Alexander McQueen was a creative genius, but he was also haunted by his many years of abuse and negligence from both family and workplace. His story is far from a happy one, and led him to really hit out at those around him in order to make himself feel better. Yet, those that tried to help were swatted away in favour of profits and keeping McQueen working as much as he possibly could. However, all of the memory of McQueen as a person, not just a work horse, has been largely forgotten or overlooked by the public in lieu of him being seen as a creative that was so overcome by his creativity that his life came to an end. But of course, this was intentional. Since McQueen's passing there has been an active attempt at deifying his memory, in order to keep the company Alexander McQueen running profitably. Can we blame this on the Gucci Group or PPR? No, not really, it's a valuable asset. But, we can blame our consumptive cultures for taking a creative person and allowing him to be wrung dry to the extent that he could no longer survive. LVMH and the Gucci Group (PPR) are equal in this regard, they facilitated the toxic work place that contributed greatly to his mental decline. It's no different in other entertainment companies of course, but so much pressure is hard to take and over the years we have seen the fall of many creatives, from fashion to music to tv for similar reasons. But the difference for Lee Alexander McQueen is that his family have been removed from this process in a way they felt heartless. Now, having spoken up so many times throughout the years, it's certainly worth listening to Lee Alexander McQueen's story and at least trying to learn and move forward from here.Chapters0:00 Intro1:17 Chapter 1: Early Life and Family3:30 Chapter 2: Family Life and School9:19 Chapter 3: Work Experience14:42 Chapter 4: Central Saint Martins17:56 Chapter 5: Early Career24:18 Chapter 6: Fame32:14 Chapter 7: Givenchy43:26 Chapter 8: The Storm Before The Calm50:46 Chapter 9: Gucci53:25 Chapter 10: The End of Tom Ford and Isabella Blow57:06 Chapter 11: Renaissance1:02:50 Chapter 12: DeathBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Detmar Blow - Blow by Blow: amzn.to/3OKpH6YAndrew Bolton - Savage Beauty: amzn.to/3ONyYv8Maureen Callahan - Champagne Supernovas: amzn.to/3uAq5OsAnne Deniau - Love Looks Not With the Eyes: amzn.to/3wto6MkEmiline Fort - The Enfant Terrible of Fashion: amzn.to/49G1BlXChloe Fox - Vogue on Alexander McQueen: amzn.to/3SJT4riKatherine Gleason - Evolution: amzn.to/48j39B1Karen Homer - The Little Book: amzn.to/4bCClieTansy Hoskins - The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion: amzn.to/49hbK8OKristen Knox - Genius of a Generation: amzn.to/497T5w5Amy Odell - Anna: The Biography: amzn.to/49k4Y2eArianna Piazza - Fashion 150: amzn.to/49dAKh6Dana Thomas - Gods and Kings: amzn.to/3I2bRJfJudith Watt - The Life and Legacy: amzn.to/49c4cUKClaire Wilcox - Alexander McQueen: amzn.to/49dPRazAndrew Wilson - Blood Beneath the Skin: amzn.to/42EbuhD
The Rise and Rise of Casablanca understitch, 2024-02-28 | Casablanca is one of the hottest mens brands at the moment championing a new old money aesthetic with their Morroccan-French inspiration coming from the heritage of the heavily respected Charaf Tajer who had an enormous CV of brands from Off-White, Le Pompon, Supreme and Pigalle. Tajer clearly began Casablanca with his long practice at fashion retailing, including a blend of hype and decent enough quality to entice customers to come and then keep them returning year on year for the new prints and styles. Plus, after this AW24 collection was such a hit with influencers and critics alike, it really seems as if the only way is up for the brandBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Fall of J.Lo by Jennifer Lopez (and JustSweet) understitch, 2024-02-16 | J.Lo by Jennifer Lopez was Jennifer Lopez's first foray into fashion. It largely was begun off of the back of licensing, but soon grew to produce its own fashion line briefly before it was partially rebranded by a new owner to JustSweet. JustSweet however went particularly and ended up causing the end to this and another of Jennifer Lopez's brands SweetFace. In the end, the brand became a cautionary tale of competing with oneself in business and ended up existing today only in licensing deals. A true fall from once having hundreds of millions of dollars in sales.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Fall of TopShop understitch, 2024-02-03 | TopShop was once the golden pig of the Arcadia Group. Almost single-handedly propping up the British High-Street in it's most dire years. However, through a string of only slightly misguided choices, they lost their relevancy and slowly fell from their once heralded spot, bringing the whole group with them.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Alexander McQueen Blood Beneath The Skin - Andrew Wilson: amzn.to/3SkO0tc
The Fall and Rise of Viktor&Rolf understitch, 2024-01-24 | It took Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren thirty years to grow their brand to the beloved label we see at couture today. Wading through decades of unprofitable clothing before finding their feet with licenses. However, with that said, they tried repeatedly to find innovative ways to break even, conquering the art world in the process and discovering their consumer desire for merch along the way. Yes, it took decades for them to reach their pinnacle, but through unwavering perseverance they finally seem to be near to the profits they have long deservedBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:The House of Viktor & Rolf:amzn.to/3HfrZH8Colors in Fashion: amzn.to/3Hj4QDD
The Fall and Rise of The Row understitch, 2024-01-06 | The Row has made huge waves in the industry in recent years, slowly but surely rising in respect from industry professionals before having an explosion of exposure in 2023. But it hasn't always been smooth sailing and it seems that despite Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen using their celebrity in novel ways, the company has been rocky for longer than one might expectBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Anna: The Biography: amzn.to/3RyZBpc
The Rise and Fall of Gosha Rubchinskiy understitch, 2023-12-23 | Gosha Rubchinskiy (ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ) has become one of the most controversial names in fashion after accusations of soliciting lewd photographs of minors saw him vanishing from the industry at the absolute pinnacle of his career. Or at least, that has been the prevailing narrative over what happened to Gosha's career in the five years since the allegations surfaced. But, it seems that actually that may not have been the truth whatsoever with no incriminating evidence ever surfacing and most of Gosha's industry connections, including Dover Street Market, coming to his defence. So, is that why Rubchinskiy has found new financial backing? Is that why he is now planning a grand return (with Kanye West) to the industry that once iced him out? Was he wrongly accused after all?Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Anna: The Biography: amzn.to/3v7J5nBVisibility Marketing: amzn.to/3RRj18UGosha’s Flickr:flickr.com/photos/26500491@N07
The Fall and Rise of Victoria Beckham understitch, 2023-12-09 | Fifteen years Victoria Beckham haemorrhaged money. £80 million ($101 million+) was lost over the years, but they finally turned a profit in 2022. The journey was clearly ridiculously difficult and expensive, but theres certainly something to be said to their resilience and dedication. Would all of this have been possible without the incredible industry connections Victoria Beckham personally had? 100% no. There were times were she could, and did, hire the best in the marketing and fashion world to try to make the company run. From Simon Fuller to Ralph Toledano (then president of La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode), no expense was spared at trying to make this a success, and at least for now that is working. Will that last forever? I am not sure, it's truly not the most artistically admired brand, but because of that there is a malleability to it that is hard to achieve profitably. So, it might not be the most interesting creative fashion brand, but the behind the scenes are truly fascinating as a study as to what one would go through to make something they love and believe in work, despite everyone (including the man who owned 33% of the company) telling her she should stop.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Haute Luxury Branding: amzn.to/47A1szISartorial Fandom: Fashion, Beauty Culture, and Identity: amzn.to/3TaaVtmPsychological Reactance: A Theory of Freedom and Control: amzn.to/413lP60Retail Marketing: amzn.to/47DhuZv
The Fall and Rise of SKIMS by Kim Kardashian understitch, 2023-11-25 | SKIMS is arguably the best Kardashian / Jenner brand we have seen to date, but that really doesn't have all to much to do with Kim's input and has far more to do with traditional methods of marketing implemented by Emma and Jens Grede who are the masterminds behind the company. Kim of course had a massive role in the company, but without the Grede's, the company would not still be with us todayBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Crash and Burn of Victorias Secret understitch, 2023-11-11 | Victoria Secret has gone from a small family run business to the biggest lingerie brand in the world, dominating the entire industry all before losing everything in disgrace in a turn around of only 40 years. Today, they've attempted to make a comeback with a more inclusive perspective but it failed to make a mark with consumers, causing the entire rebrand to be scrapped entirely. Victoria's Secret has therefore found itself in damage control once again, but where do they go from here?Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Maggie Bullock - The Kingdom of Prep: The Inside Story of the Rise and (Near) Fall of J.Crew: amzn.to/3Gizk8i
The Launch of Phoebe Philo understitch, 2023-10-30 | Phoebe Philo just launched on her website and is gearing up to be the most impactful launch LVMH have been a part of since Fenty back in 2017. They do still only have a minority stake, of course, but I don't doubt with her many years of experience working for LVMH owned brands that she has consulted them for things like positioning, price positioning, target markets etc. Visually the brand is as expected from her usual design style, but now with a lot of muted, autumnal colours that differentiate it from the dystopian minimalism that is the trend at the moment. The launch is certainly a risk in the very saturated minimalism market, but its quite well planned and clearly they've invested a lot into itBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Launch of KHY by Kylie Jenner understitch, 2023-10-28 | Kylie Jenner has announced yet another Kardashian brand in the new fashion company KHY. It's planned to be a mid priced label, everything under $200 and based on items in Kylie Jenner's personal wardrobe. However, there are a few question marks; did she copy the design from Betsy Johnson? Is this ethically not okay because of the heavy use of plastic? and simply do we really need another celebrity line? Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise of Peter Do understitch, 2023-10-10 | Peter Do is an interesting brand because it's been able to rely on provenance and good marketing more than most young brands. I have a lot of questions still about their rise to relevance, but I can't deny that their clothes are genuinely beautiful to see and their image making is really eye catching also. I hope to see them continue in the next few years and ride that minimalism trend right to the top, because they've built a fantastically engaging company thus far. It's still fresh and it isn't perfect, but it's still one of the best and brightest new brands to come out of fashion week in recent years for sureBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen understitch, 2023-09-30 | Alexander McQueen was once the biggest designer in the world. Every season the company was the hottest ticket and noone could wait to see what spectacular they would put on next. But mostly due to personal problems the company abruptly changed focus and became corporate, slick and far more commercial; though that doesn't mean it's been unsuccessful. Sarah Burton has turned McQueen from a big buzzy brand into a reliable seller for their parent company Kering and though SS24 was her final collection, she has set the company up phenomenally well to be Kering's next big star brand, and hopefully she will be very sorely missed as a resultLife and Death of Lee Alexander McQueen: youtu.be/5CY1fkAWprE?si=BIBIHXvdRjRkxldWBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Andrew Wilson - Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath The Skin: amzn.to/3N2P5E5Anne Deniau - Love Looks Not with the Eyes: Thirteen Years with Lee Alexander McQueen: amzn.to/47vUnjNClaire Wilcox - Alexander McQueen: amzn.to/49QTzHHDana Thomas - Gods and Kings: amzn.to/3sOMdUmJudith Watt - Alexander McQueen: The Life and the Legacy: amzn.to/3N0emyEKaren Homer - The Little Book of Alexander McQueen: The story of the iconic brand: amzn.to/3RgbP64Katherine Gleason - Alexander McQueen: Evolution: amzn.to/41brJChKristin Knox - Alexander McQueen: Genius of a Generation: amzn.to/4a6T1xJ
The Rise and Fall of Moschino understitch, 2023-09-21 | Moschino grew to prevalence in the mid-1980s for their unapologetic protest of the fashion system and later his timely objection to a wide range of topics from racial inequality, to HIV to the environment. Since then, Moschino has come a very long way from the provocative, activist brand it once started as. They grew surely and quickly through good planning, timely expansion and eye-catching design, that saw them transition smoothly from the commercially focused Rossella Jardini to the nostalgic camp designs of Jeremy Scott, but now they're in the midst of transition once again with Jeremy Scott’s departure, which seems to suggest that for the first time in decades, their future is uncertain#fashion #moschino #milanBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Rise of Stefan Cooke understitch, 2023-09-15 | Stefan Cooke is a relatively new brands on the scene, but they've already cultivated a great foundation on which I expect the namesake will grow exponentially in the future. This, all from being astute listeners to their customer and willing to grow and adapt with them. It's a simple principle, but incredibly important and admirable. Now with their most commercial collection to date Spring 2024 and their collaboration with Mulberry, it seems its only upwards from here for Stefan and JakeBeauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Fall of Helmut Lang understitch, 2023-09-09 | Helmut Lang for years was a brand almost forgotten. Remembered only in archive fashion and nostalgia after their brand had been run into the ground by Prada and by Link Holdings. However, it seemed things are on the up with the appointment of Peter Do into the brand, who, not only seemed like the perfect fit, has the right amount of interest from his personal brand to bring attention back to Helmut Lang. However, after a lacklustre debut, perhaps as a result of the big buzz around the debut, it seems a little disappointing. Will this be the return of Helmut Lang or is it doomed to continue falling?Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch#helmutlang #peterdo #nyfw
The Rise and Fall of Vionnet understitch, 2023-08-27 | Vionnet is your favourite designer's favourite designer. Her innovation in textiles is probably the most widely used of any of the great designers in history, from the bias cut to putting zippers into couture, her legacy has lived on far more than one may believe. However, because of that, it has left the brand susceptible to bad leadership decisions and a bastardisation of her legacy that has led the Vionnet name to where it is today; nonexistent. I don't have high hopes for Vionnet under their new leadership, but I genuinely hope to be proved wrong, this really is a name that deserves the highest respect.Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Rise of Ganni understitch, 2023-08-10 | Ganni has managed to differentiate itself from other fashion brands on the market exceptionally successfully over the last few decades. Their sustainable and ethical positioning seemingly holding them above any other fashion business on this scale, luxury or high street. This has led them to finding success in the bridge/mid-tier level, which is a position that has seen the fall of so many brands (Calvin Klein or Michael Kors) so what is their secret?Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Rise and Fall of John Galliano understitch, 2023-07-30 | John Galliano famously was the centre of the biggest scandal in modern fashion. But, even before this, the John Galliano namesake label was often not profitable or well received by the press and public. So why is it that he is still considered to be one of the best designers to have ever lived? Beauty Channel: youtube.com/@underskinYTPatreon: patreon.com/understitchAffiliate Links for Books Used:Dana Thomas - Gods and Kings: amzn.to/3sOMdUmKerry Taylor - Spectacular Fashion: amzn.to/3sOcGBEAndré Leon Talley - The Chiffon Trenches: An Autobiography: amzn.to/3uwBoXI#johngalliano #dior #maisonmargiela
