Novel Climbing Warm-up Exercise for the Forearm Extensor Muscles Training4climbing 2024-10-22 | Novel Climbing Warm-up Exercise for the Forearm Extensor Muscles
Training Café #72 - Post-Send Strategy...and YOUR Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2023-05-02 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst talks about recovery and training tactics during the sending season, and answers viewer questions on crafting a weekly training schedule, treating overuse injuries, dealing with low motivation, using supersets in climbing training, the effectiveness of various finger training protocols, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:30 - Introductory comments from home1:10 - SIP COFFEE together — Climbers around the world unite!1:40 - Training plan for the day, spring climbing season updates3:00 - Training during the outdoor climbing season3:30 - Post-send routine to facilitate recovery and get back into training5:20 - Shoutouts to PhysiVantage athletes Brooke Raboutou winning gold in Japan and bronze in Seoul during the World Cup circuit, and Annie Sanders (age 16!) making finals in Seoul at her second-ever World Cup event7:00 - World Cup event in Salt Lake City 5/19-5/217:30 - Personal success story on Kaleidoscope (13c) at the Red River Gorge10:30 - Your questions answered!10:50 - Opinions on climbing everyday and weekly schedule recommendations15:40 - Tips for treating Carpal Tunnel Syndrome17:45 - Advice for getting back into climbing after significant time away22:40 - Opinions on "No-Hang" finger training31:00 - Supersets in climbing training and overview of a training session40:30 - Effectiveness of large-edge hangs45:00 - Closing comments; happy sending!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Eric Hörst (59) sending Kaleidoscope (5.13c), Red River Gorge Training4climbing 2023-04-23 | I'm super proud to send this Red River Gorge ultra-classic! (Scroll down for training insights.)This video shows the crux (top half) of the route. The first 50 feet (not shown in the video) is powerful 5.12a/b climbing to a decent rest. Then, as shown on this video, the upper half is an overhanging arete with a very technical sequence, on pockets and edges, leading to a dynamic boulder problem followed by a pumpy runout to the chains (skipping the last bolt clip is pretty much mandatory if you want to send).5.13c is a rare grade for me…near my grade limit throughout my 47 years as a climber. To send this at age 59 — and to do it in just 5 sessions (~13 goes) — has me thinking about the possibilities for the Autumn send season here…Training works! As a 59-year-old climber, it's critical to be active EVERY day -- do something physically challenging! -- and diet and nutrition is a massive wild card, for maintaining strength, accelerating recovery, and supporting endurance for long days climbing, training, working, etc. Here's an article with details on my training philosophy for aging athletes: trainingforclimbing.com/aging-is-mostly-a-state-of-body-fit-over-50Give PhysiVantage a try! I'm powered by PhysiVantage Nutrition, and you can try it out andSAVE 15% with checkout code SEND15 at physivantage.com/discount/Send15
Training Café #71 - Are You Ready for Send Season?...and YOUR Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2023-03-14 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst discusses how to make the transition from indoor gym training over the cold winter months to outdoor performance. He also answers viewer questions about endurance training, minimum edge versus maximum weight training, recovery from shoulder surgery, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:20 - Introductory comments from home4:15 - SIP COFFEE together — Climbers around the world unite!4:40 - Shoutout to Cameron Hörst, who has recently send three 5.14d/9a+ routes in just over a month6:30 - Transitioning from indoor training to outdoor performance8:15 - What have you been working on or avoiding lately? Where do you stand coming into the season in relation to your goals?10:30 - How does weight and weight optimization play into performance? 11:30 - Stages of transition and performance19:00 - Viewer questions answered19:35 - How many sets of intervals on the spray wall is most effective for endurance training?28:45 - How to mix minimum edge training with maximum weight training?31:30 - What's the recovery from shoulder surgery like?35:40 - Can you do hypergravity training on vertical sport routes?41:40 - How to transition to training pocket grips after training small edges?50:00 - Closing comments; happy sending!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #70 - How to Train Around an Injury...and YOUR Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2023-02-07 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst talks about how you can continue training during periods of injury rehab/recovery. He also answers viewer training questions on developing work capacity, climbing while sick, adjusting a training program when recovering from an injury, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:30 - Introductory comments from home1:30 - Topic of discussion: Training around (not through) injuries2:30 - How climbing exerts wear and tear on the body3:30 - Strengthening soft tissue to withstand more stress4:30 - Climbing "around" versus climbing "through" an injury11:30 - Eric's current experience with finger injury management13:30 - Shoulder injuries17:30 - SIP COFFEE together — Climbers around the world unite!19:00 - How can improving work capacity help limit injuries?24:00 - Training while sick27:00 - Managing synovitis28:30 - Adjusting a training program while recovering from an injury34:00 - Complications from compensations in movement from injuries39:00 - Final comments and happy climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Cafe #69 – Running for Climbing? + Your Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2023-01-10 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Eric Hörst digs into running and aerobic training for climbers. Is it of any benefit? If so, how does it support climbing performance? He then answers viewer questions on power-endurance training, Daily Undulating Periodization training, supplements for climbers, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:30 - Introductory comments from home4:20 - SIP COFFEE together — climbers around the world unite!4:40 - Post-training protein for recovery5:25 - Scheduling multiple workouts in a day5:40 - Value of running and other aerobic training for climbing (and different types of climbing)16:00 - Relationship between V02 max and climbing24:00 - Climbing-specific aerobic training28:00 - Your questions answered!28:30 - Importance of V02 max for climbing29:30 - Power-endurance session planning36:50 - Training plan for a bouldering trip to Rocky Mountain National Park38:50 - Daily Undulating Periodization training versus Mesocycle training41:50 - When to use EndureX45:00 - Glucosamine and chondroitin supplementation for joint and tendon health48:20 - Final comments and happy climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #68 - End-of-Season Analysis & Your Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2022-12-13 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Eric Hörst discusses how to best reflect on your climbing season, and answers viewer questions on max strength training, power endurance, varying up your climbing terrain, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:10 - Introductory comments from home1:10 - SIP COFFEE together -- climbers around the world unite!2:20 - Comments on training over the winter and the holidays3:10 - End of season mindset and phases of the year 4:30 - Managing injuries, aches, and pains in time for the new year5:50 - Assessing the past season of climbing in order to tailor your next training plan9:00 - Practicing moderation and mindfulness over the holidays11:00 - Viewer questions 11:05 - What's the ideal weight to heigh ratio for climbing?19:45 - Volume versus max strength for longevity in climbing and connective tissue health23:30 - How long should a power endurance training focus last within a larger program?27:30 - Vertical versus overhanging terrain for training aerobic endurance 31:00 - Managing complications during rehab from A2 pulley injury35:00 - Final comments and happy holidays!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #67 - Crag Nutrition & Your Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2022-10-25 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Eric Hörst talks performance hydration and nutrition, and answers viewer questions on strength development, supplement use, and training session scheduling.EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:10 - Introductory comments from home and discussion on all the various offerings from Training for Climbing: monthly Training for Climbing podcast, training content on TrainingforClimbing.com, and other videos on the Training for Climbing YouTube channel here2:20 - How nutrition supports climbers in enduring hard training and achieving optimal performance4:40 - Basics on crag day hydration needs7:25 - Basics on crag day nutrition needs14:25 - Supplements (like Crush and EndureX from PhysiVantage) for performance enhancement24:00 - How to schedule endurance and power-endurance training sessions29:15 - Climbing in Spain30:00 - Antagonist muscle strength training37:00 - How to improve velocity of movement in climbing39:00 - Recovery from max strength training 40:45 - Best way to take Supercharged Collagen from PhysiVantage43:50 - Final comments....HAPPY CLIMBING!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #66 - Your Climbing Training Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2022-09-20 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Eric Hörst talks setting yourself up to win during the fall performance season, recovery tips after a hard training week, density hangs, eccentric overload training, strength maintenance during long climbing trips, climbing with newborns, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:10 - Introductory comments from home and discussion on autumn climbing conditions 1:00 - Switching from training focus to performance focus and setting yourself up to win5:25 - SIP COFFEE together -- climbers around the world unite!6:00 - Recovery tips9:45 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED9:55 - Details on density hangs in preparation for campus training17:50 - Positive and negatives of eccentric overload training21:45 - How to maintain energy systems while living on the road25:10 - Maintenance exercises during long climbing trips28:05 - Climbing after pregnancy/with kids31:05 - Optimal number of different grips in a hangboard session36:40 - Rehab training session planning tips42:00 - Training tips for climbers breaking into 5.1246:20 - Final comments....HAPPY CLIMBING!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #65 - Send Day Bouldering and Redpoint Tips! Training4climbing 2022-08-30 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Eric Hörst talks about the little things that can make a big difference on your "send day", and answers viewer questions on analyzing climbing footage for improvements, how to spread training volume throughout the week, suggestions for training when living on the road, when to schedule max power training, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:10 - Introductory comments from home and discussion on summer roadtrips 1:00 - Little things that can make a big difference on "send day" 1:50 - SIP COFFEE together -- climbers around the world unite!26:30 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED26:40 - Tips on analyzing your own climbing footage to make improvements? 29:30 - Sending tip: Focus on carbs pre-climb and protein + fat for after 31:30 - Opinion on spreading training volume throughout the week? 35:50 - How to navigate plateaus on the campus board?39:40 - Suggestions for training when living on the road? 41:20 - When to schedule max power training in the day? 45:50 - How many days off after a shoulder injury? 52:20 - Final comments....HAPPY CLIMBING!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #64 - Post-Roadtrip Training & Your Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2022-08-09 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Eric Hörst talks about returning to training after a roadtrip or period of performance climbing, and answers viewer questions on warming up for finger training at home, how to build up a pyramid for harder projects, skincare for sore tips, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:10 - Introductory comments from home0:30 - SIP COFFEE together -- climbers around the world unite!0:55 - Shoutout to Seb Bowen4:15 - Post-roadtrip training14:00 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED14:10 - How to warm up well to train finger strength at home?18:35 - Best way to heal a split tip?22:05 - How much time off for finger injury recovery is too much? 25:50 - How to build up a pyramid for hard projects? 30:35 - How to make the skin on fingertips more resilient for climbing?35:00 - Final comments....HAPPY CLIMBING!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #63 - Viewer Questions Answered on Training, Injury, Nutrition, and Performance! Training4climbing 2022-07-26 | In this episode of the Training Cafe, Coach Hörst discusses dealing with summer climbing conditions and answers viewer questions including how to train glutes and hamstrings, how to tape for A4 injuries, how to get started with double workout days, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down! Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee! SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:20 - Introductory comments from Lander, Wyoming with a review of the seasonal weather and updates on travel1:30 - SIP COFFEE together -- climbers around the world unite!2:05 - World Cup comments and shoutouts4:45 - Dealing with summer weather conditions15:00 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED15:35 - Effective training for 2 and 3 finger pockets?20:35 - Exercises to strengthen glutes and hamstrings?23:00 - Best methods for wrist strength training?25:00 - How to come back strong from an LCL injury?29:30 - What do tender tips of the elbows mean? 33:30 - Tips for managing inflammation on the big toe?34:35 - How to get started with double workout days? 40:45 - Comment of thanks for Maximum Climbing and How to Climb 5.12!42:00 - What can I expect when trying EndureX for the first time?45:45 - How to tape for A4 injuries?49:40 - Final comments....HAPPY CLIMBING!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #62 - World Cup Comments & YOUR Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2022-06-28 | Coach Hörst comments on the historic results from the World Cup event at Innsbruck, AND he answers viewer questions on training and performance.EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:20 - Introductory comments from Rifle, Colorado, including a quick review of Rifle climbing history.3:15 - SIP COFFEE together -- climbers around the world unite!3:35 - World Cup comments -- Team USA has best-ever showing! Congrats to PhysiVantage Pro, Natalia Grossman, on winning the World Cup Bouldering Series Championship...and also to Jessie Grupper and Brooke Raboutou!9:00 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED9:30 - Any routes suggestions for a Ten Sleep Canyon trip?11:30 - What exercises do you recommend for pulling on small holds when outdoor climbing?SIGNAL DROP (13:20- 14:50) -- Fast-forward to about 15:0015:20 - Advice for Metatarsalgia?17:00 - What do you think of swimming for aerobic and antagonist training?18:40 - Do you have any new Supercharged Collagen flavors coming to Europe? (Right now, only Chocolate and Unflavored are available through the EPIC-TV shop at: shop.epictv.com/en/brand/physiv%C4%81ntage20:45 - Is it okay to climb with tenderness on the side of my finger?23:00 - Any tips while stuck in a hotel room during ongoing Asia COVID lockdown?24:50 - Do you have a rehab protocol for an A2 pulley injury?28:20 - What are your thoughts on intermittent fasting for climbing performance?32:30 - Final comments....HAPPY CLIMBING!SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #61 - World Cup Climbing & Your Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2022-06-02 | In this episode, Coach Hörst reflects on the last two weekends of World Cup competition at Salt Lake City (2022). Eric all answers a wide range of training topics, including...... ...with coffee, of course!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:20 - Introductory comments -- sorry about the bad audio...it fixes itself around 5:40 mark and beyond.2:20 - SHOUT OUT! To PhysiVantage Nutrition pro climbing, Natalia Grossman on winning GOLD at both World Cup Bouldering events at Salt Lake City! physivantage.com3:20 - Eric's thoughts on the World Cup events...the boulder setting, challenges and results.16:00 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED16:10 - What do you pump out faster some days than others?20:22 - Thoughts on the new Lattice UK "Quad" Pinch block? physivantage.com/products/lattice-quad-pinch-block22:40 - Do you recommend hangboard Repeater Training?24:45 - How do the modern "volume boulders" transition to outdoor climbing?29:25 - Recommendations on dealing with finger Synovitis?32:20 - At what point should I start taking supplements? Learn about climbings-specific supplements here: physivantage.com/pages/supplements-for-climbers36:06 - With all the different types of training and exercises I could do, how does one program them all into the course of a year?40:40 - I currently climbing indoors once per week and outdoors once...what do you recommend for a third day of climbing per week?44:00 - Which of your training books do you recommend? physivantage.com/collections/training-books45:40 - What do you recommend I do for mild tenderness of my fingers after climbing?50:30 - How to you limit your self-talk before and during a climb?57:20 - Closing thoughts.SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #60 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! Training4climbing 2022-04-26 | Got a question on training, technique, outdoor climbing performance, or nutrition? Ask Coach Hörst live at Noon ET (1600gmt) at the Training Café....streaming live on the T4C Facebook, Twitter, and YouTube channel. Type your question into the comments box. Bring coffee!
Training Café #59 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! Training4climbing 2022-04-12 | Got a question on training, technique, outdoor climbing performance, or nutrition? Ask Coach Hörst live at Noon ET (1700gmt) at the Training Café....streaming live on the T4C Facebook, Twitter, and You Tube Channel. Type your question into the comments box. Bring coffee!
Training Café #58 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! Training4climbing 2022-03-08 | Coach Hörst will field your questions at NOON ET (9:00am PT and 1600UTC). PLEASE JOIN THE CONVERSATION....with COFFEE!
Training Café #57 - Crag Day Training at the Gym & Your Questions Answered Training4climbing 2022-02-22 | Coach Hörst discusses the benefits of a "crag day" approach to gym climbing in preparation for outdoor sport climbing season.EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:45 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!1:30 - Comments on wrapping up winter training season...and soon transitioning to outdoor climbing.3:00 - Eric invites you to listen to his Training For Climbing podcast on Apple Podcasts, Google Play, Spotify, and elsewhere. trainingforclimbing.com/podcasts-71-72-climbing-training-program-case-studies3:50 - MAIN TOPIC: The benefit of doing a few "Crag Days" at the climbing gym ahead of the beginning of your outdoor climbing season.****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******15:45 - Thoughts on a hamstring muscle tear? Importance of posterior chain muscle strength.19:15 - For long-term gains, is linear periodization or DUP a better approach?21:39 - What's the difference between ordinary collagen powder and Supercharged Collagen? physivantage.com/products/supercharged-collagen27:00 - How can I best training my calf muscles for knee barring?29:00 - Question about the best time to take the REDUX supplement? physivantage.com/products/redux-hp-natural-pain-relief-and-recovery-aid31:35 - Regarding the "interference" effect, what do you think about doing generalized aerobic training on the same day as climbing-specific strength training?36:00 - Final thoughts.SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #56 - Does Age Really Matter? Training4climbing 2022-02-08 | Coach Hörst has a birthday coming up on February 14th...so he decided to discuss the many facets of the topic of "age, training, and performance". Sure, raw power typically peaks in one's third decade of life; however, you can still continue to improve at climbing for decades beyond that!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:40 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!1:12 - SHOUT OUT: Allison Vest on her V14 ascent!2:10 - MAIN TOPIC: How much does age matter when it comes to training and climbing? Eric dishes out the details over the next 20 minutes of this video!23:00 - The value of extra protein and certain supplements for older climbers. physivantage.com/products/weapons-grade-whey-protein-complex****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******34:00 - How to train on a "bad skin" day?36:18 - Your thoughts on increasing/decreasing daily calorie consumption based on the type of training I'm doing (strength vs. endurance)?40:34 - Is it better to train power before endurance or vice versa?43:40 - What hangboard protocol can I use to train local aerobic endurance (of the fingers)?48:45 - At age 38 I've climbed 5.12c/7b+...and I'm wondering if you think I can progress to my goal of 8a?51:35 - What's an okay weight fluctuation throughout a training cycle or season?55:40 - What do you think of my current training schedule of two strength/power sessions and one high-volume aerobic training per week?1:00:20 - Where can I find some climbing-specific nutrition information?1:09:10 - How important is stretching in your training routine?1:12:00 - Do you still jump off boulders at age 58?SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #55 - Dealing with an Off Day at the Gym & YOUR Questions Answered Training4climbing 2022-01-25 | Ask Coach Hörst anything climbing- or training-related...live at Noon ET (1700 UTC). BRING COFFEE!EPISODE time-stamps below — Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and “ring the bell” for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET–join us LIVE…with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 — physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:30 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!2:30 - SHOUT OUT: Julia Chounardie4:00 - Eric's thoughts on climbing going "mainstream".6:30 - MAIN TOPIC: How to respond to an "off day" at the climbing gym. You have 3 choices...7:50 - Use of auto-regulation to make the workout appropriate for your current state.****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******20:00 - How to organize strength training for a V6 boulderer?23:00 - How long should a training cycle last?26:00 - How to best train for long steep routes?32:35 - Can I train multiple grip positions in a single workout?39:55 - Any words of wisdom for me after tearing my biceps tendon?44:10 - I'm three weeks out from a trip to Spain...how should I train leading into the trip?47:50 - What do you think of my unique pull-up routine?52:25 - What do you think of deadlift style finger training?54:40 - How can I prepare my youth climbers for competition skills?SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Wonderstuff (5.12d) Training4climbing 2022-01-17 | Eric Hörst redpoint footage (rests edited out for brevity), January 2022.Calico Basin, Red Rocks, NV.
Training Café #54 - Your Climbing & Training Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2022-01-11 | Ask Coach Hörst anything climbing- or training-related...live at Noon ET (1700 UTC). BRING COFFEE!
Training Café #53 - Holiday Training & Dietary Tips...and Your Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2021-12-21 | Coach Hörst shares some holiday training and dietary tips to keep your training on track while still enjoying all the holiday cheer with friends and family! Eric also answers viewer questions on...possible performance-enhancing drug use in climbing, wrist flexor training, keto diet, daily protective training, max hangboarding, two-a-day training sessions, and more!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN1:00 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!2:10 - SHOUT-OUT to Jakob Schubert on sending TWO 5.15s in a day!3:30 - BIG Announcement for European viewers -- PhysiVantage Nutrition is now available in Europe from EPIC-TV online store. shop.epictv.com/en/brand/physiv%C4%81ntage5:35 - MAIN TOPIC: Training and Nutrition Tips for the Holiday Season.****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******12:40 - What do you think of having a bouldering focus in the winter as preparation for next season sport climbing?18:20 - I've been doing low-load "protective training" during my break from serious training; should I continue with these prehab sessions when I begin back into a serious training block?23:10 - What do you think about possible PED (performance-enhancing drug) use among climbers?29:40 - Does wrist extensor strength limit finger strength?31:35 - What do you think of a keto diet?37:00 - How should I organized max hangboarding with other training, specifically with regard to doing split training sessions.40:10 - What do you think about consuming easy to digest carbohydrate during training?43:02 - What do you think of my schedule of blending winter skiing with some renewed training in the new year?46:00 - Should I limit 7/53 max hang training to only the strength/power training phase?48:00 - How would you structure limit bouldering as part of a two-hour system wall session?51:40 - If I'm going to boulder and sport climb on back-to-back days, would it be better to boulder on the first or second day?SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #52 - Auto-Regulation: When To Train (or Climb) HARD and When Not To! Training4climbing 2021-12-07 | Coach Hörst discusses the value of Auto-Regulation in striving to train and climb more effectively. Eric also answers viewer questions on how to break through a "5.11+ plateau", training while on a business trip, training to drop weight, tapering ahead of a weekend climbing outing, max hangboard training during an endurance phase, the value of bodyweight training exercises, and more!Sip coffee with coach Hörst...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:45 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!1:00 - Introducing PhysiVantage's special holiday SEND BLEND coffee. Learn more: physivantage.com/products/send-blend-coffee1:50 - SHOUT-OUT to Zach Galla on his recent string of V15/V16 ascents!2:25 - Introduction to Main Topic: AUTO-REGULATION - When to Train (or Climb) HARD and When Not to!4:00 - Use of Auto-Regulation with a gym climbing or training session.16:24 - Applying Auto-Regulation at the boulders and crags...to invest your energy wisely and increase your chance of sending your project.****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******27:00 - How to best continue training while on a trip away from climbing (Florida)?29:10 - Is it okay to do a strength training phase right before a period of performance?32:40 - Are you a fan of the Moonboard?34:10 - How can I best do a mini-taper before a weekend of climbing?37:35 - In trying to progress from 5.11 to 5.12, can I begin doing some hangboard training in addition to climbing 3 days per week?40:40 - How can I train around (and heal) an A1 pulley injury in my hand?43:23 - How long can a period of performance climbing last before losing significant strength or fitness?46:16 - Do you use a SmartWatch to collect data?48:40 - My recent training has resulted in a 10lb weight gain...and I'm wondering if I must cut weight to climb my best?52:02 - I'm 54 years old and climb 7a/+ (5.12a)...how can I improve my climbing level further?54:40 - Follow-up on wrist extensor injury...56:30 - I'm currently about 10kg/22lbs overweight and climb 7a/5.11+. How can I best lose some weight and improve towards my goal of climbing 8a/13b?1:01:20 - What are your thoughts on body-weight training exercises?1:03:40 - Can I do a little hangboard strength training during an Endurance training phase?SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #51 - End-of-Season Assessment, Reflection, and Planning for Progress! Training4climbing 2021-11-23 | Coach Hörst discusses the importance of a post-season assessment, as well as planning off-season training and next season travel. Eric also answers viewer questions on hangboard training for strength and endurance, importance of BMI, keeping a training logbook, dealing with next-day muscle pain, and more.Sip coffee with coach Hörst...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN1:30 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite!1:35 -Introducing PhysiVantage's special holiday SEND BLEND coffee. Learn more: physivantage.com/products/send-blend-coffee2:20 - SHOUT-OUT to Alex Megos on another 5.15c ascent! Watch uncut send video here: youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU4:35 - Introduction to Main Topic: End-of-season assessment, reflection, and planning for progress!~10:00 - The importance of redesigning your training in order to progress next season.~15:00 - Do rough 2022 season planning NOW!****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******18:30 - What tips and advice do you have for keeping a training log?21:00 - Eric reveals his training log book with advice for keeping both objective and subjective data.28:38 - Do you recommend taking EAAs or BCAAs, before or during training, in addition to Supercharged Collagen? Learn more: physivantage.com/products/supercharged-collagen31:30 - What causes next-pain muscle pain? Is this sort of pain normal or something to avoid?34:30 - I just dislocated my knee cap...so I'm wondering what training I can do during my recovery period?36:00 - How many strength and endurance sessions can I do per week as an 8a-level climber?38:00 - Is there an ideal BMI range for climbers?40:20 - Do you think eccentric exercise is best for tendon health and strength? Read more about training and nutrition for healthy connective tissues: physivantage.com/pages/nutrition-for-tendons-ecm44:00 - Eric comments on the 7-53 max strength hangboard protocol...and when you should switch to training one arm at a time.45:20 - What's the difference between doing 7/3 Repeaters with added weight and longer rest and doing them at bodyweight (or less) with only a minute rest between sets?50:00 - As a boulderer doing max finger training, how can I best add more finger grip variety?53:30 - As a new climber, I'm wondering if I can do some hangboard training on large holds?55:42 - My climbing season is about over, but I'm close on a 5.13a project. Should I travel to make more attempts before year's end or save it for next season and begin my winter training now?58:01 - How many sizes do you downsize your La Sportiva climbing shoes? Get a discount on La Sportiva shoes here: sportiva.com/?avad=276649_d252cead5&utm_source=avantlink_www.trainingforclimbing.com&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=bb_affiliate&utm_content=Custom+Link&utm_term=276649_www.trainingforclimbing.com1:00:30 - What are your thoughts on hangboarding with a half crimp or chisel?1:02:30 - Final thoughts...SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #50 - YOUR Questions Answered by Coach Hörst. Training4climbing 2021-11-09 | Coach Hörst answers viewer questions on plyometric training, Red River Gorge climbing, weight training for climbers, building a route grade pyramid, finger training protocols, and more!Sip coffee with the coach...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:15 - Eric comments on reaching 50 episodes of Training Cafe! He explains how this video series was born out of the COVID lockdown.1:30 - Learning to climb your best demands a holistic, open-minded approach to training.2:25 - Comments about autumn climbing at the Red River Gorge.3:30 - Eric talks about the causes of muscle soreness and his rest requirements after two days of rigorous climbing.6:12 - The Training Cafe' "sip" and Shout Out to Daniel Woods on the second ascent of Zoolander (5.14d), Red River Gorge.****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******8:05 - How can I build a solid route grade pyramid to advance my climbing to the next grade?13:40 - When's the best time to engage in plyometric training? Eric explains the science...and best practices for climbing-specific adaptations. Read more about plyometric and connective tissue training for climbing here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/campus-training-is-connective-tissue-training21:50 - Any tips for improving hip and leg flexibility?25:30 - Can I do fingerboard training and weight lifting in the same training session?29:20 - My hangboard training gains have been steady week to week -- can I continue with the training indefinitely or should I take a break from this specific training program?31:10 - What advice would you give a new climber for building strength?33:50 - What amount of weight training is appropriate for climbers? Eric comments about Wolfgang Gullich and his photographer Thomas Ballenberger.39:20 - What do you recommend for someone experience slight shoulder or elbow pain?41:45 - For weighted pull-ups, do you hang the weight on the front or back of the harness?42:45 - When will PhysiVantage products become available in the UK and EU?43:30 - Can I mix anaerobic and aerobic system training?46:20 - How can I effectively train mind control while climbing?47:45 - How to rehab tenosynovitis?49:40 - Should I hangboard train if it makes me feel tweaky?52:35 - What are your thoughts on using an ARMAID device?53:00 - Eric comments on the 4-3-2-1 and 3-2-1 training cycles.SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #49 - YOUR Questions Answered by Coach Hörst. Training4climbing 2021-10-26 | Coach Hörst answers viewer questions on finger training (and injuries), building endurance for route climbing, deadlifting for climbing, and more!Sip coffee with the coach...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN2:15 - Importance never-ending learning...and being willing to change your mind on training concepts. Don't get training advice from a "know-it-all".3:35 - Eric comments on his recent trip to Germany...and the challenges of climbing in the legendary Frankenjura.4:50 - How the texture of rock affects how much finger force you must put into the rock to grip a hold. Slippery rock demands higher finger force.****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******7:45 - How does recovery differ between having an A2 versus A4 finger pulley injury?15:50 - What additional training should I do while on a year-long climbing trip?18:38 - Is using your thumb on a rock hold the same as locking your thumb over the index finger (as in full-crimp gripping)?21:10 - What are your thoughts on cryotherapy (ice and other cold modalities)?24:20 - How can I better train to develop route endurance?28:10 - Any tips for recovery from wrist flexor tendinosis?31:20 - In deadlifting for climbing, how much strength must I build...how heavy should I go in lifting?36:05 - If I only have 2 or 3 days per week to train for climbing, what should I focus on doing?41:45 - How often do you recommend doing a strength assessment?44:55 - What mobility and other warm-up exercises should I do before training for climbing?46:50 - How many different grip positions should I train on a hangboard?48:50 - What climbing and non-climbing books do you recommend?51:40 - What's the best way to get your kids to learn and love climbing?SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #48 - Tips for Climbing Your Best on a Weekend Outing or Roadtrip Training4climbing 2021-10-06 | Coach Hörst provides tips for climbing your best outside, whether it's on a weekend trip or longer peak-season roadtrip.Sip coffee with the coach...and soak up the secrets to better climbing!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET (1600GMT)--join us LIVE...with coffee!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:20 - Eric explains that the world's most famous sport route, Action Direct, is just 5 miles away from where this video is being recorded.1:20 - Dealing with adversity (wet weather in this case) on a road trip. Keep it classy...proceed with style!4:45 - Sip coffee together -- climbers around the world unite!5:52 - SHOUT OUTS! Brooke Raboutou, Natalia Grossman, Sean Baily, Laura Rogora8:30 - MAIN TOPIC: How to climb your best on a weekend outing or peak-season roadtrip.9:00 - Learn about having a "mission" mindset...and project-specific training.12:30 - Importance of tapering your training. You can't cram training for your project--err on the side of over-resting in the days before your trip.15:30 - Get straight to the business when at the boulders or crags--don't get sidetracked! 18:00 - Balance your climbing attempts with proper nutrition and sleep. 21:00 - Don't self-sabotage!25:30 - Be willing to sacrifice some things short-term to achieve your mission goals!*** VIEWER QUESTIONS ANSWERED ***28:15 - How to best prepare for a trip to the Red River Gorge?30:15 - Your thought on different max strength hangboard protocols? What's most effective?34:30 - When to do antagonist training during the weekly climbing training schedule?38:40 - Can I recommend a good training program to purchase online? Link to Training For Climbing book programming templates: trainingforclimbing.com/training-programs43:30 - What are your thoughts on the use of ice and/or heat as part of after training...to possibly aid recovery?SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #47 - One Essential Trait for Never-Ending Improvement Training4climbing 2021-09-14 | Coach Hörst will share with you a vital character trait for steady, long-term improvement...in climbing...and in anything! Also, he'll answer some of your training questions live at Noon ET. Bring coffee!!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET (1600GMT)--join us LIVE...with coffee!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:40 - We sip coffee together!1:05 - SHOUT-OUTS!2:10 - Introduction to Main Topic: The One Essential Trait for Improving at Climbing.4:55 - That one vital trait is.... (listen and learn!)8:00 - Be aware of the invisible things that negatively affect your training and climbing performance.8:50 - Remind yourself frequently that you don't know it all -- remain open-minded to learning, no matter who veteran you are at climbing!11:30 - The biggest enemies of your future improvement as a climber are arrogance and a know-it-all attitude.13:30 - Don't assume that "fatigue" (from training or climbing) necessarily means it was an effective session.15:20 - VIEWER QUESTIONS ANSWERED15:40 - Should I do limit bouldering before or after other exercises?19:50 - Is there a difference in effectiveness in consuming Supercharged Collagen on an empty stomach versus with a meal? Learn more here: physivantage.com/products/supercharged-collagen23:30 - How to recover from "pump" while route climbing?26:00 - How to improve at System Boarding? 29:00 - Do you use Supercharged Collagen in the morning while on climbing trips?32:00 - With regard to core training, can you comment on the usefulness of floor exercises versus exercises done while hanging?36:00 - What are your thoughts on density hangs?41:30 - Final thoughts...SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #46 - Should You Hangboard Train During Your Performance Climbing Season? Training4climbing 2021-08-31 | Coach Hörst talks about the pros & cons of in-season hangboard finger training -- how much (and how intense) can you go without hurting outdoor climbing performance?Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET (1600GMT)--join us LIVE...with coffee!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN0:35 - Sip coffee with coach Hörst - climbers around the world unite.2:05 - Eric's SHOUT OUT to Stefano Ghisophi on sending Bibliography. Eric sounds in on the downgrade to 5.15c/9b+4:50 - A look at the Hörst home gym...and Cameron Hörst training for his trip to Germany.7:00 - Eric explains about his "111" shirt...a tribute to a fallen soldier (and fellow climber).8:30 - MAIN TOPIC: In-season Hangboard training -- Should you do significant hangboarding during your outdoor performance climbing season?****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******17:50 - Getting into climbing at age 33, how long can I improve at bouldering...before transitioning to route climbing?22:25 - As a route-setter, working a long day setting--and testing--boulders between V0 and V9...what kind of a training day is this, and how do I train and climb on other days to perform my best?26:54 - Can I do onsight climbing outdoors during a strength/power phase of my training cycle?36:18 - I climb outside every Sunday, so how shall I organize bouldering and hangboard training?40:50 - Which finger training protocols develop neurological versus structure adaptations?44:55 - Does the nervous system get affected by weight lifting? How long must I rest between lifting and climbing?46:50 - How much difference between the 2nd and 3rd editions of your Training For Climbing book? physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing48:45 - Getting into climbing later in age, how do I balance short-term gains with development for the long game?53:25 - Tips for rehabbing and returning from an ankle sprain?SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Alex Megos “Boulder Campusing” Power Endurance Training for Climbers Training4climbing 2021-08-23 | Some vintage video I shot in 2015 of Alex Megos "campus bouldering" at his home gym, Cafe Kraft. This is an excellent advanced power-endurance training technique...IF you're strong enough to do it right. I wrote a short article with instructions for proper use of this training modality...read it here: trainingforclimbing.com/boulder-campusing-for-power-endurance************INTRO: Boulder campusing is a popular indoor training exercise among advanced climbers—it’s also a heck of a lot of fun if you’re strong enough to do it right!The goal is to ascend a section of overhanging wall by simply climbing hand-over-hand with no aid from the feet. This exercise is similar to campus board laddering, and the same injury warnings apply: Campusing with straight-arm “catches”, shrugged shoulders, and a caved-in chest will get you injured, sooner than later. Read training details here: trainingforclimbing.com/boulder-campusing-for-power-endurance************Brought to you by: trainingforclimbing.comand physivantage.comSave 10% on the performance nutrition used by dozens of professional climbers by using checkout code SAVE10 at physivantage.com
Training Café #45 - Olympic Climbing Analysis...and YOUR Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2021-08-17 | Coach Hörst serves up his analysis of the Olympic finals--the good, the bad, the contrived, and the awesome! This episode concludes with viewer questions answered on....finger training, exercise programming, order of exercise and climbing, and more! Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET (1600GMT)--join us LIVE...with coffee!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN:0:10 - Eric's initial thoughts on the Olympic Climbing show in Tokyo.3:48 - SIP COFFEE with coach Hörst -- climbers around the world unite!4:20 - Olympic TV and Internet coverage....mediocre. (Meagan Martin good! But the live Internet English feed...bad.)7:43 - The "combined" format was not ideal...and the scoring system made for crazy result swings during the lead climbing finals. Yes, it was exciting; but this format and scoring didn't really discern the world's best climbers.16:25 - Janja Garnbet is the GOAT!****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******24:50 - After a max-strength training session, is it okay to do easier "climbing for fun"?27:27 - Thoughts on finger pulleys that have minor pain?28:38 - Should I do max hangs before or after a climbing session? (Answer: It depends! Listen for details...)37:20 - What to do about A2 pulley pain?43:00 - Adam and Alex are the best outdoor climbers...but didn't fare wekll on the Olympic walls...Eric gives his final thoughts on the Olympics.SAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #44 - Olympic Preview & Predictions...and YOUR Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2021-08-03 | In this episode of Training Café, Eric gives his thoughts and predictions for the first-ever Olympic Climbing! Three climbing disciplines will debut in Tokyo—speed, bouldering, and lead climbing—with a combined-result Gold medal will be awarded to the "sport climbing" winner.Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes! Broadcast every other Monday at Noon ET (1600GMT)--join us LIVE...with coffee!EPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comRUNDOWN1:00 - First, SIP COFFEE with coach Hörst! Climbers around the world unite!!2:20 - Recap of summer climbing....and the International Climbers Festival in Lander, WY.3:30 - FINALLY, climbing is going to be in the Olympics! But the format is flawed...with only one combined medal.5:40 - Why speed climbers generally aren't very good at lead climbing...and most of the best lead climbers aren't so fast on the speed wall.7:15 - Eric's guess at who might win medals...11:00- - The pros & cons of climbing being in the Olympics.****** QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ******17:00 - Max hangs versus Repeaters for developing finger strength?20:00 - Feet-on-ground campus training...where to fit this exercise into one's training schedule?24:45 - Will you comment on lade crushers over age 50?26:30 - Congrats to Cameron Hörst for sending his first 5.15a!27:25 - Is there any reason not to consume Collagen protein powder daily for 2 years?30:30 - Best way to train sloper grip on a Beastmaker 2000 hangboard?33:50 - What do you think about going out bouldering by myself?36:00 - Are there any concerns about getting kidney stones from consuming whey protein over the long term?40:00 - Final Olympic predictions...41:24 - The betting odds on Olympic Climbing...SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #43 - The Important of Deload Weeks in Climbing and Training Training4climbing 2021-07-06 | Learn how to get more out of your training, reduce injury risk, and climb harder by way of an occasional deload week. Eric then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.comRUNDOWN:00:30 – Reporting to you from Rifle, CO1:05 – Let's commune with a sip of coffee!2:15 – Shoutout to Sean Bailey for his gold medal, and Colin Duffey for his first podium. Also, congrats to Natalia Grossman on her bronze medal in lead!3:45 – What benefits a deload week will bring to your training and progression. Does not apply to recreational climbers as much. 5:05 – Diminishing returns after several weeks of hard training7:00 – Notice how your body feels and get a sense of fatigue. Perhaps create a benchmark workout to test your body's condition. 10:00 – When to take a deload week is highly personalized and depends on your body's current state11:45 – A deload week can range from a few days to over a week, depending on your age, condition, and climbing goals. 14:30 – Schedule your climbing and training to fit the intensity of your "on" days15:00 – Deload days can include light loading or other mild activity - but don't overdo it!16:00 – Good nutrition can jumpstart recovery of connective tissues and your muscles17:00 – In summary: deload periods are a week off from high-level training or climbing, but not necessarily complete rest19:50 – Now, time for your questions!********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********20:30 – Do you know the "smart hangboard" climbro? 24:50 – I'm injured and cannot climb for a few months. When it comes to finger training, should I just train max hangs for the months or switch between max hangs and repeaters?33:30 – How do I activate my power more quickly? It usually takes me a few burns.37:30 – Cutting it short but looking forward to the next training café!SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingCopyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
Training Café #42 - Adjusting Your Climbing to Perform Well at a New Area Training4climbing 2021-06-15 | Traveling to climb somewhere new this season? Listen in for tips to support your performance. Eric then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.comRUNDOWN:00:30 – Reporting to you from the road - with coffee!1:20 – Some background on Rifle, CO climbing area2:20 – MAIN TOPIC: It can be challenging to adjust to a new rock type. Learn how to adjust your climbing at a new area.3:08 – Travel exposes all kinds of new challenges for your climbing 5:30 – If you're in the position to, travel to new areas to climb!6:20 – When you get to an area, don't just pick a project and get to work - experience all of the grades and warm up to the area!8:00 – Acclimate to any changes in elevation9:15 – If you treat your body right at higher elevation, it will adjust more quickly! (Red blood cells will increase faster)11:30 – Treat your body right and allow the first few days to adjust to the rock and environment********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********12:30 – I two-hung my project at Smith Rock yesterday. Any advice on a strategy to now send it quickly?14:30 – Any routes in Boulder Canyon (in the 5.12-5.13 range) that you'd recommend? 15:35 – Just had my first post-covid climbing trip to Frankenjura and I struggled a lot on the steep terrain. What's the best training for power endurance on a 90-degree homewall?20:30 – What's the best fingerboard training (7x3 repeater protocol or 7x53 max-strength protocol) to do once a week in climbing season?23:05 – On the climbing nugget podcast, you speak loudly about the importance of core training. Could you go deeper on that in the future?28:50 – One last sip of coffee - until next time!SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingCopyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
Training Café #41 - What It Takes To Send Your Hardest Ever Boulder or Route Training4climbing 2021-06-08 | Eric shares what it takes physically and mentally to achieve the next grade in climbing. He then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.comRUNDOWN:1:30 – Even in the post-covid era in the states, we're continuing with these training cafés.2:15 – Let's commune over coffee!2:40 – This episode's shoutout! Congrats to Natalia Grossman on another impressive World Cup win and Sean Bailey on his gold medal!4:15 – 4 U.S. team back to back medals!5:00 – TOPIC OF THE DAY: What it takes to "level up". What is takes to send the next grade!6:00 – How improvement works for new and experienced climbers9:15 – Eric Horst just recently gained a new grade in this phase of life10:20 – Be willing to put in the time!11:05 – Be willing to employ a system for where YOU'RE at. The process is different for each of us.12:30 – Some common threads for all of us: pick the right route, one you can access frequently, one that caters to your strengths!15:00 – Different kinds of projects15:40 – System of working a route17:30 – Step 1: explore the route; don't worry about sending! Just collect the data.19:20 – Try and link a few bolts together, then start linking chunks of the route!22:30 – A big part of sending is efficiency!25:40 – It can become a mental battle as well!17:45 – You don't need to quit everything to reach the next grade, but be open to sacrifices!30:00 – Remember what it feels like to send! Take a "vacation" from your project and just climb for fun!31:50 – Let go of the outcome and just let it happen!********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********33:45 – Any thoughts on benchmarks all climbers should be able to do? Bench press, pull-ups, deadlifts, or anything for general strength?36:00 – How should I schedule my training in order to send my 5.13 route smoothly?38:07 – Grades seem to be the most controversial topic at any crag. Do you experience that?40:08 – Pink-pointing vs. red-pointing41:50 – In your book, How to Climb 5.12, you talk about HIT training with specific holds. Is this still relevant?44:22 – I recently left the RRG and didn't send my project. All of the moves felt easy, but I couldn't put it together. I did max-hangs and bouldered prior to the trip. Should I have done repeaters? 45:40 – Any thoughts on 6 on / 10 off x4 weighted hangs? It feels like a nice balance between endurance and strength.49:30 – I realized that I pull harder when I grunt, but I don't want to look like a "bad dude" or show-off. Should I try to change this or embrace it?51:35 – Any tips for finger strength gain for someone 50-years-old and up?54:37 – Do you suggest isometric pulling exercises like front-levers for leading or bouldering? *************************SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingCopyright © 2000–2021 Hörst Training, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
4 Tips for Improving Your Bouldering and Rock Climbing, beginning Today! Training4climbing 2021-06-06 | Want to improve rapidly at climbing?Apply the 4 powerful tips coach Hörst presents in this video to gain steady improvement for many years to come. No matter if you're just learning to climb...or a hard-training elite-level climber... grounding your training on these 4 vital concepts will help you level up and climb your very best! Want to learn the "1st Rule of Eric's Train Club"? Watch the video to the end to find out!Brought to you by: trainingforclimbing.comand physivantage.comSave 10% on the performance nutrition used by dozens of professional climbers by using checkout code SAVE10 at physivantage.com*************Eric Hörst is an international best-selling author, published researcher, renowned climbing coach, and accomplished climber of 40+ years. He is the author of Training for Climbing which, along with his seven other books, has sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide, including translations to Spanish, French, Polish, Portuguese, Russian, and Persian. Hörst has written hundreds of magazine articles and appeared on numerous TV broadcasts; his training philosophy, techniques and photos have been featured in countless publications around the world. He has co-authored one research paper: “Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing”, Journal of Behavioral Health and Medicine, 2010, with Dr. Richard Fleming. Hörst maintains the popular Training4Climbing.com site and he broadcasts a monthly climbing science and training podcast available on iTunes, Spotify, and elsewhere (search for Eric Hörst’s Training for Climbing podcast).A self-professed “climber for life”, Eric remains active at the cliffs in his 50s, traveling widely with his wife, Lisa, and sons, Cameron and Jonathan. Visit his website at: trainingforclimbing.com
Training Café #40 - SLC World Cup Recap & Your Questions Answered Training4climbing 2021-05-25 | Eric shares his first-hand experience at this past weekend's World Cup bouldering competition in Salt Lake City...and then answers viewer questions on training and performance climbing. With coffee, of course! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.comRUNDOWN:0:25 – In the spirit of climbing, let's sip coffee1:15 – Eric's morning workout routine3:05 – This past weekend's World Cup in SLC, Utah3:30 – Another World Cup in SLC this weekend4:36 – Some of my impressions from the World Cup5:30 – How the rounds work6:20 – Other factors that influence the competition7:40 – The final round8:30 – Shoutout to team USA for holding it down!9:20 – Congrats to Brooke Raboutou and Natalia Grossman for medaling!11:30 – Natalia's win12:45 – Now time for YOUR questions!********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********13:30 – Is it possible to mix repeaters and max hangs on the same day/session or cycle (starting with max hangs of course)?17:00 – Is it worth training strength endurance, as I feel max strength and technique/mind are providing max returns?18:55 – What are your thoughts on the German climbing team in the past World Cup in SLC? 6 of them made semis, but none of them made finals, not even Megos.22:05 – What should you focus on training for a short route that only takes a minute and a half to complete?24:45 – For the women at the WC, there were problems that were topped by every woman. Do you think there is a problem with routesetting for women?27:10 – What do you think about a mesocycle of 2-1-1 (max str - str /end - taper)? Would someone peak at the end of it?28:30 – Any tips for continuing to train for climbing while rehabbing Golfer's elbow? There's great info on how to rehab, but less on how to effectively build training volume while avoiding injurious situations.39:06 – Should the tapering session be based on the str/end or the max str?40:07 – I'm a 5.13- climber and live minutes away from an outdoor climbing area. Tues/Thurs I hangboard in the am and climb outside in the pm. Saturday I Moonboard/campus. Sunday I climb outside for mileage. How's my schedule?42:00 – Let's take a final sip of coffee here together! See you all in two weeks for the next training café!
Training Café #39 - Planning Summer Training & Travel...and YOUR Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2021-05-04 | Eric talks about training and planning for summer season climbing...and he answers a wide range of training questions. Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.com RUNDOWN:1:05 – Eric's approach to training and travel1:30 – Grab your coffee, and let's sip together! Shoutout Café Kraft for the mug!2:45 – Training For Climbing book in other languages to cater to the international audience we have on here! 5:15 – Training indoors to travel and climb outdoors 6:20 – Coming back from St.George, Utah7:10 – Some A2 pulley issues and remedies9:45 – Consider your schedule and make a game plan!11:00 – Pay attention to your body! De-load if need be. You can't cram training!13:00 – Always plan your training with upcoming trips in mind. Perhaps dedicate a multi-week training block if it's a bigger trip!********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********13:55 – Hi from Bethlehem, PA! My 7 year old daughter boulders really strong but gets so scared the second she gets a rope on. What advice would you give in helping her overcome this fear?15:21 – I'm currently getting back into that limit projecting mindset, trying moves that feel totally impossible. How do I know if it is too hard for me currently? Should I simply give the moves time?18:40 – Is it normal to lose finger strength when you switch to rock climbing while maintaining one or two finger strength sessions per week ? I could hang 145% of my bodyweight and now only 117%.21:10 – From Australia here, unfortunately won’t be able to make the stream since it’s late. What is a feasible way of staying on the wall 7 days a week? I find it very difficult to stay off it.25:30 – If you have a bit hyper flexible finger joints, are there any do's and dont's when it comes to finger strength training?27:08 – I saw your training pdf. Is it really that good to do that big training for strength and power? There are so many exercises.31:00 – What are your thoughts on iron cross and planche for climbing training? I can only train rings at the moment because of the lockdown. I need some short-term goals for motivation. 32:56 – Any progress on a physivantage distributor in the UK? 33:50 – I cannot climb at all right now. What are the best forearm exercises for climbing? 36:06 – If you could feasibly access outdoor climbing whenever you want (i.e. living in the Red), how would you balance training and climbing? What would your week look like? 41:05 – I just hit 54. Any tips for building strength for an aging climber?43:17 – I'm in Canada and only have access to outdoor climbing once a week. How do I make the most out of that day? 44:48 – Do you find benefit doing pull-ups on small edges on the hangboard? I find it transfers well to real rock. 46:36 – What kind of doctor should I see for a finger injury? 49:50 – Thanks for tuning in! Let's take one last sip!*************************SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #38 - Optimal Rest Interval between Climbing & Return of World Cup Climbing! Training4climbing 2021-04-20 | Today's café topics: First World Cup competition since COVID, Optimal Rest Intervals between Boulder and Redpoint Attempts, and YOUR QUESTIONS answered! Brought to you by PhysiVantage Nutrition for Climbers: physivantage.comRUNDOWN:1:20 – We'll meet here every other Monday (twice a month)!1:45 – Grab your coffee, and let's sip together!2:50 – Shoutout to Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret who won gold at the first World Cup this year!3:30 – World Cup Finals Recap - special shoutout to American climber, Natalia Grossman on bronze6:00 – Main topic today: optimal timing and attempts for red-pointing or bouldering7:30 – As you become more advanced, it's important to pay closer attention to nuance (rest, recovery, timing, attempts)8:30 – Some rough rules of thumb9:30 – For boulders - rest one minute per rigorous move11:05 – For powerful moves, you don't need a super long rest; you aren't really getting pumped!11:55 – Food and beverage intake; no need for over-consumption if it's only a few hour session13:00 – Food suggestions for longer days15:30 – For longer days, look for foods with a lower glycemic index; don't overdo the sugar!16:20 – 3 categories of sport route attempts: falling low (20 min rest), falling mid-way (40 min rest), falling high up on a longer route (rest a full hour)18:30 – Generalized training in addition to climbing vs. climbing as the only form of training (recovery rates)20:00 – Benefits of running for climbers24:00 – Time for your questions. Let me know where you're viewing from in the comments!********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********24:40 – How do I get better at climbing on small holds? 28:38 – Any insight about training late during the day? 30:50 – When on a 2-3 week trip, how would you schedule your climbing and rest days if the weather wasn't a factor? Also, what's optimal for onsight/redpoint days? 33:40 – Can you effectively train aerobic endurance by traversing? Most training partners find this boring.38:00 – I'm about to start a power-endurance circuit on the wall. Do you think 40 moves is a good amount? Any advice? 40:45 – What's your method to change hangboard protocols? 43:33 – Can repeaters build finger strength? 44:20 – Any motivational tips for building psyche without an open climbing gym?45:30 – What can I do to train if I'm powering out on routes? 48:10 – Running or cycling as cross-training?49:28 – I've done energy system training from your book, but I don't like to train outside of climbing. Could I continue to progress by working my core, bouldering, training antagonist muscles, and stabilizers? 51:15 – What do you think about combining "recruitment hangs" with strength endurance repeaters in the same session? 54:40 – Ethics: If you were to spend 30 minutes working out a low crux on toprope, then later try the rest on toprope, before successfully leading it clean 3rd tie-in, how many attempts would you consider that? 55:45 – I sessioned yesterday and head back out Wednesday, should I do any training sessions in between the gap? 56:20 – Has Cam tried "Bone Tomohawk" yet? 56:50 – Any thoughts on arc training for a minor A2 injury? (no pain or swelling while climbing)56:35 – What are the main differences in energy system gains using the max weight 10-second protocol vs. the max weight 7-53 protocol? 1:02:06 – "recalibrating the central governor by high volumes of climbing" is a quote from you. Can you detail the length, quality, and density of such a period? 1:08:55 – When you are about to go on a trip, what preparation do you do to perform at a high level the whole trip? Should I focus on training hard or projecting? 1:10:54 – What can you say about "ghost pain" on old injuries? Is it the brain warning the body to not re-injure itself? 1:15:00 – See you all in two weeks for the next training café!SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Natalia Grossman, Jonathan Siegrist, and many others. Learn how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from the renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #37 - Americas First V17....and Game-Day Diet for Climbing Performance and Recovery Training4climbing 2021-04-06 | Eric talks extensively about Daniel Woods' commitment to and FA of "Return of the Sleepwalker" V17. Also covered in the episode is performance nutrition--specifically Eric addresses diet considerations for performance climbing, as well as nutrition for recovery. Learn about Daniel Woods' choice for performance nutrition (PhysiVantage) below.RUNDOWN:1:00 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together! 2:30 – Shoutout to Daniel Woods and his incredible effort on Return of the Sleepwalker, V17 (first in the world?3:40 – Sleepwalker V16, FA'd by PhysiVantage athlete, Jimmy Webb5:00 – Sleepwalker is solid V165:45 – The linkup, which became Return of the Sleepwalker6:45 – Daniel dedicated the last 3 months of his life to sleepwalker; full "insanity" 7:50 – The relatable process of projecting (regardless of the grade) 8:35 – "Pro" climbing and compensation9:20 – The unknown outcome of projecting; doubt and trusting the process10:50 – Nutrition for performance is highly personalized; no real cookie cutter approach 12:00 – Mentally and physically, we're ALL different!13:00 – Game day diet for advanced climbers13:45 – Every fine nuance counts when you're climbing near your limit14:30 – What Eric Horst drinks at the crag15:30 – Snacking at the crag; what's best for your body?16:30 – One food that lots of pro climbers eat... 17:15 – Consumption of protein powders and collagen18:45 – Crag eating habits and snack suggestions20:00 – Eating for recovery22:30 – Evening meal24:15 – Make sure you get your protein! (PhysiVantage makes an awesome Whey Protein Isolate!)28:00 – Calorie to protein ratio; finding the middle zone!30:30 – Everyone's ideal diet is different!********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********33:18 – When projecting (3-4 goes), I do very little breakfast (just collagen), then 2-3 100KCal bars (carbs), then protein bar at the end, then main meal at home. What do you think? 36:46 – What are your thoughts on a light breakfast? Will last night's carbs be enough? 41:22 – What is the current consensus on electrolytes for performance while climbing? 45:31 – Would you recommend your newer or older books? 47:20 – I broke my right ring finger (including the PIP joint) last week. I probably can't climb for 4-6 weeks. Any recommendations? 49:54 – Any thoughts on carb timing in relation to climbing performance and weight? I've done some experimenting with lower carbs and more cardio in days leading up to performance. 55:15 – I have been climbing 10 years and never trained. I've climbed 5.12d/5.13a. I recently started training, but I cannot hang on a 20mm edge. Should I use minimum edge protocol or max hangs? 56:51 – Is it better to use a counterweight or have feet on the floor and an analog scale?57:20 – Do you monitor your macros? If so, what do you find best for each in terms of grams? 59:25 – What negative effects - if any - come from overconsumption of protein if it's not causing a caloric surplus? 1:03:02 – Amino acids vs. protein? 1:05:16 – What does a typical day of eating lo0ok like during the week? Any striking differencinces in meal timing, micro targets, and macro nutrient distributions?1:11:25 – You mentioned takiung whey protein in the evening. I've been told to use it during the day and casein before bed because it digests slower. What's your take on this? 1:13:05 – What's your recommendation for overload problems like tennis elbow on longer trips (2-3 weeks somewhere)? 1:16:10 – Be healthy, eat well, climb strong!SPONSOR: Learn about the performance nutrition brand PhysiVantage, used by top pros like Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Matt Fultz, Drew Ruana, Paige Claassen, Jonathan Siegrist, many others. Learn how how PhysiVantage can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #36 Training4climbing 2021-03-16 | Learn how to schedule your training around outdoor climbing days and trips for optimal performance.RUNDOWN:1:57 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together! 2:40 – Eric Horst climbing background - 44 years climbing and counting...3:15 – Shoutout to two Physivantage pros - Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb - working on America's first potential V17!4:50 – Thanks Drew Ruana and Matt Fultz for spreading the PhysiVantage word!7:07 – The main topic: How to train indoors and stay strong while still performing outdoors7:50 – Transfer your gains to real rock and be fresh!8:15 – Don't "cram" our training. Taper off your training before a trip by 50%.10:35 – Tips for folks in weekend warrior mode11:45 – Tuesday (strength and power) & Wednesday (endurance oriented) should be main training days for weekend warriors!12:50 – Give your nervous system 4-5 days to recover from intense power workouts14:15 – Even on Tuesday power days, be careful not to overdo it. When in doubt, cut it off!15:15 – Wednesday focus on endurance and power endurance (4 by 4s, route climbing, etc.)15:30 – Thursday and Friday are rest and recovery days. (Go light Thursday, total recovery Friday)16:00 – The "DUP" - Daily Undulating Periodization Program17:00 – If you LIVE near a climbing area: How to use the gym and the boulders together18:00 – Additional strength exercises after bouldering outside (for advanced climbers)19:00 – You need complete rest days!19:40 – Tips for those who live a far distance from outdoor climbing and focus on climbing trips21:15 – Consider training cycles / blocks22:25 – It takes planning, dedication, a system, and motivation24:00 – Don't ignore your tweaks!25:45 – Listen to your body and pay attention to your recovery habits!********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********26:36 – Is kettlebell conditioning beneficial to climbing?29:28 – For weekend warrior sport climbers, is it okay to only train max strength (in a week) with ARCing or is it important to include one session of strength endurance as well?32:10 – Did you hear about Emil's protocol about light hangboarding for 30 days based on tendon adaptations with light frequent load?34:50 – Is it beneficial to do max hangs on pockets (for the different finger groups) if I rarely climb on them?36:55 – Due to lockdown uncertainty, how do I adjust a training plan to get me peaking after 4 weeks (in preparation for a climbing trip) as opposed to the usual 6-8 weeks?39:40 – One last question: Any good breathing techniques prior to getting on a route?42:20 – Thoughts on training power and power endurance in the same day?SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #35 - The Value of Getting Back to Basics Training4climbing 2021-03-02 | When it comes to effective training, the shiny new object isn't always the answer...but rather getting back to the handful of proven exercises that offer 80% (or more) of the benefits you can reap from your climbing workouts.RUNDOWN:00:40 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together! 1:25 – Today's topic: getting back to basics with your training2:30 – Training in the 80's - it was basic!3:30 – New-age training technology 4:50 – 80% of your gains come from about 20% of the exercise and activities available to you.8:00 – Accurately assess your strengths and weaknesses and dedicate the bulk of your training to your weaknesses9:40 – Some caveats 14:00 – Don't overdo rigorous training!15:00 – Recognize your ritual and make necessary tweaks as you progress 17:00 – Take note of your workouts18:30 – Becoming an effective self coach is critical19:00 – Plan your workouts in advance20:00 – The best training program for you is one you're not already doing! There's always room for improvement.********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********20:30 – How should I be training 3.5 weeks out from a trip to the Red River Gorge? 24:25 – At-home exercises for training lower body and stability?28:00 – How long can you span a performance period outside before returning to a training phase? Can outdoor sessions substitute for strength training?32:20 – Can you give us your long plank protocol? 35:00– Is your supercharged collagen affected if you put it in hot coffee? 37:22 – I've been minimally loading on my hangboard twice a day, with a mandatory 6 hours in between sets. Thoughts?39:05 – How should a training week look for a V9 boulderer about to start a power endurance block?44:10 – Any advice for climber's elbow that's persisted 4 weeks now?46:00 – If you do a max weighted hangboard session one day, and plan to do some onsight training the following day (at 60-70% effort), will you hinder your gains from the previous day?49:20 – How hard should I climbing during the 4-week skill and stamina period of the 4-3-2-1 plan? Can I still project hard routes?56:20 – How much time, daily, does it take for you to write in your training diary and analyze it? 58:48 – How would you use "commercial" climbing gyms to prepare best for outdoors?1:00:10 – Do you have plans to develop a Training 4 Climbing app?1:01:05 – How to continue to train and stay injury-free with limited tools1:02:25 – Do you ship your supercharged collagen to Serbia or Poland?1:03:10 – Do 3-2-1 preferred to DUP or can DUP with variation go year-round?1:03:35 – Should I be holding each position when I foot campus or keep moving?1:04:43 – I injured my back climbing after getting a massage. Is there any connection here?1:06:18 – I read about a 4-3-2-1 periodization in your book. How do you keep the endurance that you build in the first 4 weeks if you change focus for the next 6 weeks (before performance week).1:07:50 – What training method is compatible with more outdoor days - periodization or non-linear?1:10:45 – Would using a grip strengthener in an isometric way count as prehab for the elbows?1:11:45 – What is a good time frame on a critical force test?SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #34 - How Many Days Per Week Should Train? (And Your Questions!) Training4climbing 2021-02-16 | In today's LIVE episode, Eric will discuss training frequency and many variables that influence YOUR optimal number of training days per week. Plus, your questions...with coffee!RUNDOWN:00:20 – Time to talk training, climbing, and sip coffee together!1:30 – SHOUTOUT to Matt Fultz for his killer 24-hour spell in Red Rocks2:50– Today's topic: How many days a week should you be training?3:37 – The more you do it the better you get; you've got to put the time in!5:40 – How many days to engage in intense physical training (including intense climbing days)6:55 – Avoid too much intense training and too few rest days (can result in injury, degraded performance, poor results)7:50 – Engage in minimum effective dose8:30 – Minimum effective dose varies depending on climber9:15– Variables affecting training schedule10:30 – Don't overlook your recovery period! (nutrition and sleep habits)14:30 - Meaning of training (climbing vs. non-climbing)15:10 - 3-4 days a week is a good starting point15:45 - Do something physical every day!16:00 - Pushing / "prehab" exercises (do on non-climbing days!)17:00 - Targeted training to break plateaus19:30 - 3/4 days a week total of climbing-specific training for the "average climber"21:50 - one COMPLETE rest day per week24:45 - Expose yourself to new types of climbing26:30 - Hangboarding and campus boarding can be game-changers!********YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!**********27:00 – Ganglian cyst treatment32:00 – Opinion on fingerboard pull-ups36:35 - Have you done any climbing in Georgia, Alabama, or Tennessee?37:15 – Any tips for sharp elbow pain when releasing difficult holds with a bent arm? I've been climbing for about 7 years and have had this pain for about 1.5 years.40:10– Can your recovery maintenance hangboard protocol with collagen be implemented with a max hangs protocol or is it too much?45:55 – Am I training aerobic capacity doing moves on a 40-degree wall with my feet on the ground? When should I do this?47:40 – Do you resole your climbing shoes or buy new?49:12 – I plateaued doing max hangs for 2 months. How should I overcome this?54:03 – What are some conducted studies that have been done on youth climbers and what have they shown?55:55 – Here are a few articles on appropriate training for youth climbers56:10 – Energy systems interference with aerobic vs. anaerobic core exercises58:13 – I have a fingerboard, a bar, and some workout equipment, but no access to a climbing wall during the week. Can you help me with some exercises?59:55 – For new climbers, is one of the best ways to train just to climb?1:01:50 – What about yoga?1:03:50 – Do you practice mindfulness?1:05:40 – I have arthritis in my big toes. Any techniques to limber up the big toe mid-joint?1:06:53 – How long does a Lumbrical muscle injury last? Any suggested treatments?1:09:20 – Does fingerboarding with heavy weight cause impingement? Should training rungs be wider?1:12:05 – What exercises would you recommend for a sub-scapular shoulder injury?1:13:30 – See you all next time! (Get ahead of the game and type in your questions ahead of time to send them to the top of the list)SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Finger Training You Can Do Every Day! Learn a Protective Training Protocol for Rock Climbers Training4climbing 2021-02-16 | *** This is a slightly revised version of a video I published here in 2019...describing a simple, but extremely beneficial 6-minute finger training "protective" protocol that you can do every day! ***LEARN MORE about the research and training/nutritional intervention details here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/advanced-climbing-training-for-stronger-healthier-tendonsClimbing is hard on the finger flexor tendons and pulleys (A2 and such). If you climb and/or train frequently at a rigorous level, then there's a good chance you've experienced finger pain and perhaps even an overuse and acute injury. So, what can you do to reduce your risk of these pesky finger injuries? New research has revealed a coupled training-nutritional intervention that can increase tendon strength and health. Based on this research, I have developed a simple 6-minute "protective" finger training protocol that will nourish and strengthen your finger flexor tendons and annular pulleys. Think of this brief training session as “prehab”—because it will enhance collagen synthesis in your tendons and ligaments…and, thus, improve the health and strength of these important structures.Best of all, this is one climbing exercise that you can do almost daily! Of course, intensive hangboard training protocols must be limited to just a few days per week—they are hard on the muscles, nervous system, and connective tissues and, if you do too much, there’s a good chance you’ll end up injured. But this brief moderate-intensity protective protocol can be utilized daily, either as a rest day "prehab" session or as part of your warm-up routine before your main climbing/training of the day.Skeptics and naysayers might not believe in scientific research (their loss!), but there's growing evidence that this coupled training-nutrition intervention WORKS, if you apply it correctly. Research has shown that pre-workout consumption of vitamin C-enriched hydrolyzed collagen is the lynchpin of this protective training...that leads to a doubling of collagen synthesis in connective tissues that you target with mechanical loading (~60 minutes after consuming the collagen peptides). The science is fascinating! You can learn more at: physivantage.com/blogs/news/advanced-training-protocol-for-stronger-healthier-tendons*** Six-Minute Protective Protocol Details***#1. 30 seconds of finger rolls (or squeeze donut) with a moderate load.#2. 30 seconds of finger extensions with a Powerfingers (or similar)#3. 1 minute of 10"/5" Repeaters (i.e. four 10-second hangs) on large to medium-sized holds using open hand, open crimp, or half-crimp (if uninjured) grip positions.#4. Repeat Steps #1 through #3 two more times--this makes for an effective 6-minutes of non-fatiguing loading. (Do not let your finger exercise escalate into anything more stressful or voluminous than what's described here.)SUBSCRIBE to the Training4Climbing channel and click the "bell" for notification of new video releases!
Training Café #33 - Your Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2021-02-02 | Today's show will be a live training Q&A! Submit your questions ahead of time (in comments box) to get in the front of the line...or enter questions as the show goes live at Noon ET, 9:00am PT, 1700GMT. See you then--with coffee!******* QUESTIONS ANSWERED! ***********00:10 – Grab your coffee!4:14 – First question: Can adaptations from training one arm (left/right) carry to the other? Are they neurological adaptations (motor learning, inhabitation), or also physiological (mitochondrial biogenesis/hypertrophy)?6:18 – Roughly how many 5.12a-d routes should one have in a climbing pyramid before stepping up to 5.13?10:17 – Good ways to improve sloper strength?15:50 – What percent of bodyweight should I work up to deadlifting? Also, when is it OK to start max weight hangs?19:13 – Get your PhysiVantage mug!19:45 – What are some exercises that you believe should belong in every climber's core routine?23:25 – Tips on routesetting for a homewall27:30– Any thoughts on training "back 3" fingers on a hangboard?29:30 – As a boulderer, is doing one aerobic session a week going to do anything for me?32:35 – Would you recommend longer duration density hangs at any point of a minor pulley rehab? Or is that better to do when it's healthy?38:31 – Theoretically, would recovery for an A1 injury be the same or similar to an A2 or other tendon injuries?41:18– If I can't complete sets or hang times in a training session, should I do the hangs for shorter times or less pull-ups or reduce the weights immediately?43:25 – What are your thoughts on one-arm hangboard training? How much training experience should one have before trying out this method?46:50 – Should I take my collagen only on training days? Or a scoop every day?49:23 – Any tips for maintaining muscle and avoiding injury while in a caloric deficit? 53:25 – What kinds of light activities might be acceptable and contribute to my climbing on a rest day? 56:00 – Thoughts on Nalle Hukkataival's 9A ascent in Finland58:05 – What do you think of shock wave therapy?1:00:38 – Are vertical jumps a predictor of performance?1:01:47 – Does the rule "if it doesn't hurt while climbing, it's okay to climb" apply to all finger injuries? 1:06:15– How long should you wait to change a training program if you're not seeing improvement?1:09:20 – Commentary on carb backloading and eating habitsSPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #32 - Why Core Training Is More Important Than You May Think Training4climbing 2021-01-19 | Learn why a "stronger core" = "stronger fingers"...and better performance. And, sip coffee with Coach Hörst while he answers a few of your training questions!RUNDOWN:00:45 – SHOUTOUT to 8a.nu 3:00 – Congrats to to Alex Puccio and PhysiVantage athlete Drew Ruana on "boulderer of the year!"4:05 – Today's topic: CORE TRAINING5:30 – Common misconceptions; There's a lot more to core strength than just your abs (see more on complete core training HERE)7:30 – Core strength endurance8:00 – Breath work9:50 – Your core is more than just your abs!11:00 – Adjusting force vectors to make holds more positive; a stronger core CAN mean stronger fingers13:30 – A stronger core lends itself to more endurance15:00 – Underlying causes precipitating failure18:00 – Non-climbing exercises (click here for one of Eric Horst's favorite core exercises)YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!24:00 – Commentary on in-depth knowledge for climbing technique27:07 – Can you please suggest how to prevent unwanted muscle on legs, shoulders, and pecs?31:27 – Do you think I can manage to climb 7a/5.11d with only one climbing session per week and hangboard/conditioning sessions mixed in?33:55 – Is it possible to continue to make strength gains with a combination of hangboarding and outdoor climbing?37:08 – What aspects of of training for climbing should women climbers focus on compared to men?41:30 – Can you give us an example of a well-structured core session?46:22 – I'm an advanced boulderer, climbing 8 years, doing my first winter block and looking to make the next step in lockdown. How should I structure my week?51:20 – I struggle with flexibility, especially upper body. Any specific stretches you would recommend? How often?55:07 – Any chance for future T4C follow-along training videos?56:53 – What do you think about static holds?1:00:40 – How to recover and strengthen your finger after a knuckle injury?1:00:22 – Any training tips or guidelines for climbers over 40 who want to continue to progress?Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingClick SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!************************SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #31 - Developing a System for Success! Training4climbing 2021-01-05 | Join this live training video with coach Hörst at Noon ET (1700GMT). If you've got a training question, then arrive early and enter it in the comments box. Or, just sip a cup of coffee and listen to coach Hörst!SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #30 Training4climbing 2020-12-29 | Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingEPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!************************SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #29 - Your Training Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2020-12-08 | Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingEPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!************************SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
Training Café #28 - Holiday Training Tips...and Your Questions Answered! Training4climbing 2020-11-24 | Expert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbingEPISODE time-stamps below -- Scroll down!Click SUBSCRIBE and "ring the bell" for notification of future video releases and Livestream Training Café episodes!1:10 - Commune with coffee! Introducing SEND BLEND coffee! Learn more here: physivantage.com/products/send-blend-coffee2:35 - SHOUT OUT: Julia Chanourdie (France) for becoming the 3rd woman to climb 5.15b...and Jordan Cannon (USA) for his 21-hour free ascent of Golden Gate (5.13b) on El Cap!5:00 - MAIN TOPIC: Training through the holidays. How to eat, drink, and be merry while still training effectively and avoiding self-destructive behavior.7:00 - 3 approaches to training and climbing through the holidays.11:00 - The beauty of gray--playing the middle ground....in which you enjoy the holidays (and parties) but also engage in some serious training to improve your climbing into 2021.13:10 - Remember, it's far easier to eat 1,000 calories than it is to burn off 1,000 calories via exercise.14:00 - Try to couple a big meal day (or evening party) with a hard morning workout beforehand.17:45 - ************* YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! **********************18:00 - Question: When is the right time to begin weighted hangs and campusing training?21:35 - Question: How to return to a route with a good mindset after punting from above the crux?23:05 - Question: How to best schedule Core/Ab training?25:45 - Question: How to improve at campus board long reaches?28:20 - Question: What do you use for crag snacks?31:50 - Question: What's your opinion of grades....and the importance of a climbing grade sent?35:15 - Question: Advice for hangboard training at home during COVID lockdown #2?37:30 - Question: What's the value and best use of a 4-3-2-1 training cycle?41:35 - Question: Can I do hangboard Repeaters along with max weight hangs?45:10 - Question: Might your Endure X product help my lungs recovery in the wake of my bout with Covid-19?48:25 - Question: Will wrist curls help with my wrist pain?50:45 - Question: How to train to be a beast in 5 years...rather than short-term goals?54:15 - Comments on diet and calorie needs for elite climbers.59:00 - Question: How to campus train when training at home...without a campus board?1:00:10 - Question: Is doing 12 max hangs a good finger workout?1:01:15 - Question: What's the importance of training core endurance versus core strength?1:04:25 - Question: Getting into climbing around age 50, how long can my strength improve?************************SPONSOR: Visit PhysiVantage performance nutrition and learn how our products can help you gain strength, increase endurance, accelerate recovery, and make you more injury resistant. Save 10% with code: SAVE10 -- physivantage.comSAVE on La Sportiva shoes at this link: avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&merchant_id=068e9e04-44b5-4c1c-98f8-76881511fc5a&website_id=05d521e9-bd5e-46fb-9fd8-db2a9af5f910&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportiva.com%2FFREE eBook: 10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers: physivantage.com/blogs/news/free-e-book-download-offer-for-physivantage-insidersEric's Training for Climbing website: trainingforclimbing.comFollow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing twitter.com/train4climbingExpert training and climbing tips from renowned coach and international best-selling author, Eric Hörst. Learn more about his latest book, Training For Climbing: physivantage.com/products/training-for-climbing
