Timesmith Dress HistoryArguably the easiest ‘gowns’ to make from the 17th and 18th centuries are the informal gowns of various origins grouped under the term “night gown”. This is not to be confused with the Night-gown, a specific style of women’s outerswear! 😉
Night gowns as form of “undress” – that is, as an informal or casual style worn at home or amongst your family and most intimate friends – were worn by both men and women, of all walks of life except perhaps the very poorest. These garments were made from a range of fabrics including fine silks from China and India and highly sought-after printed cottons called ‘chintzes’, which were usually made in India and, until the latter half of the 18th century, imported into England via The Netherlands.
Chintz has a complicated history, both for its role as a commodity in global trade networks and as manufactured domestic goods in certain European countries – more about that coming soon on this channel!
Shoes: American Duchess Buckles: K. Walters At The Sign of the Gray Horse Stockings: Fashions Revisited
#YesterdaysPajamas #CosTube
IMAGES & PUBLISHED SOURCES
Cutting diagram for a Robe de chamber: Leloir, Maurice, ‘l’histoire du costume” (Libraririe Gründ, Paris, 1951)
1720-1750 “Wrapping Gown”: Arnold, Janet ‘Patterns of Fashion 1’ (Macmillan, 1968) ** PLEASE NOTE - IT'S PATTERNS OF FASHION *ONE* NOT 'FIVE' AS I SAID BY MISTAKE IN THE VIDEO (I talk about PoF5 soooooooooooo much, it just came out of my mouth and slipped through the net during editing....)
Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession No. T.215-1992: Man's calico chintz banyan lined with block-printed cotton, fabric made in Coromandel Coast, probably tailored in Netherlands, 1750-1775. http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O89443/banyan-unknown
Photos of locations in the Netherlands are all by Rebecca Olds, copyright 2015-2019. All rights reserved.
FURTHER READING:
North, Susan ‘Indian Gowns and Banyans — New Evidence and Perspectives’, Costume 54.1 (2020): 30–55
FABRICS/SUPPLIES:
• Dutch Heritage quilting cotton – item no. DHER5000 – readily found in the UK from eBay sellers such as Handicraft Palace • Green & yellow shot silk taffeta – gifted from a friend • Guterman silk threads
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
#YesterdaysPajamas - Making An 18th Century Chintz Wrapping GownTimesmith Dress History2020-07-08 | Arguably the easiest ‘gowns’ to make from the 17th and 18th centuries are the informal gowns of various origins grouped under the term “night gown”. This is not to be confused with the Night-gown, a specific style of women’s outerswear! 😉
Night gowns as form of “undress” – that is, as an informal or casual style worn at home or amongst your family and most intimate friends – were worn by both men and women, of all walks of life except perhaps the very poorest. These garments were made from a range of fabrics including fine silks from China and India and highly sought-after printed cottons called ‘chintzes’, which were usually made in India and, until the latter half of the 18th century, imported into England via The Netherlands.
Chintz has a complicated history, both for its role as a commodity in global trade networks and as manufactured domestic goods in certain European countries – more about that coming soon on this channel!
Shoes: American Duchess Buckles: K. Walters At The Sign of the Gray Horse Stockings: Fashions Revisited
#YesterdaysPajamas #CosTube
IMAGES & PUBLISHED SOURCES
Cutting diagram for a Robe de chamber: Leloir, Maurice, ‘l’histoire du costume” (Libraririe Gründ, Paris, 1951)
1720-1750 “Wrapping Gown”: Arnold, Janet ‘Patterns of Fashion 1’ (Macmillan, 1968) ** PLEASE NOTE - IT'S PATTERNS OF FASHION *ONE* NOT 'FIVE' AS I SAID BY MISTAKE IN THE VIDEO (I talk about PoF5 soooooooooooo much, it just came out of my mouth and slipped through the net during editing....)
Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession No. T.215-1992: Man's calico chintz banyan lined with block-printed cotton, fabric made in Coromandel Coast, probably tailored in Netherlands, 1750-1775. http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O89443/banyan-unknown
Photos of locations in the Netherlands are all by Rebecca Olds, copyright 2015-2019. All rights reserved.
FURTHER READING:
North, Susan ‘Indian Gowns and Banyans — New Evidence and Perspectives’, Costume 54.1 (2020): 30–55
FABRICS/SUPPLIES:
• Dutch Heritage quilting cotton – item no. DHER5000 – readily found in the UK from eBay sellers such as Handicraft Palace • Green & yellow shot silk taffeta – gifted from a friend • Guterman silk threads
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020PART 3: Follow along as I draft a pattern for 18th century stays || #ArcMethod #PatternsofFashion5Timesmith Dress History2023-02-16 | Welcome to the third and final part of my 3-part series showing how I draft patterns for 18th century stays.
I use the ‘arc method’ published in "Patterns of Fashion 5: The content, cut, construction and context of bodies, stays, hoops and rumps c.1595-1795" by Janet Arnold, Jenny Tiramani, Luca Costigliolo, Sebastien Passot, Armelle Lucas and Johannes Pietsch (The School of Historical Dress, London, 2018).
The style of stays I am drafting here is the fully boned, strapless stays on pages 100-103 of “Patterns of Fashion 5”, dated to the 1760s.
In Part 1 of this series, I covered drawing the basic body block (setting out all the aspects of length and circumference determined by the body measurements); mapping the curves (arcs) for the placement of bust, waist and high hip within the stays; and drawing the top line (centre front neckline and armscye). You can find that video here: youtu.be/0gAV3aIZSpE
In Part 2, I finished the basic block; then drafted all the pattern pieces according to the shapes of this style of stays. This video ends with FINAL REVEAL OF THE MASTER PATTERN and you can find it here: youtu.be/cbKI0jPWfsg
In this, Part 3, I show you how I took that master pattern and converted it into pattern pieces that can be used for cutting out the fabrics to build the mock-up or final stays. BONUS: Photos of the mock-up that was made from the pattern!
Drafting stays patterns for other people using the arc method – exactly as you see in this video series -- is a service I offer over on my website: timesmith.co.uk/custom-pattern-drafting/p/stays
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2021
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~PART 2: Follow along as I draft a pattern for 18th century stays || #ArcMethod #PatternsofFashion5Timesmith Dress History2022-08-07 | Welcome to Part 2 of my 3-part series showing how I draft patterns for 18th century stays.
I use the ‘arc method’ published in "Patterns of Fashion 5: The content, cut, construction and context of bodies, stays, hoops and rumps c.1595-1795" by Janet Arnold, Jenny Tiramani, Luca Costigliolo, Sebastien Passot, Armelle Lucas and Johannes Pietsch (The School of Historical Dress, London, 2018).
The style of stays I am drafting here is the fully boned, strapless stays on pages 100-103 of “Patterns of Fashion 5”, dated to the 1760s.
In Part 1 of this series, I covered drawing the basic body block (setting out all the aspects of length and circumference determined by the body measurements); mapping the curves (arcs) for the placement of bust, waist and high hip within the stays; and drawing the top line (centre front neckline and armscye). You can find that video here: youtu.be/0gAV3aIZSpE
In this video (Part 2), you can follow along as I finish the basic block; then draft all the pattern pieces according to the shapes of this style of stays. This video ends with FINAL REVEAL OF THE MASTER PATTERN!
In Part 3, I will show you how I take that master pattern and convert into pattern pieces that can be used for cutting out the fabrics to build the mock-up or final stays. BONUS: Photos of the mock-up that was made from the pattern! A link to Part 3 will be added as soon as upload is available.
Drafting stays patterns for other people using the arc method – exactly as you see in this video series -- is a service I offer over on my website: timesmith.co.uk/custom-pattern-drafting/p/stays
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To navigate to specific sections in this video, simply click on the segments in the progress bar of the video, above. Here is a list of the timestamps for these "chapters":
00:00:00 Intro 00:02:40 deciding where to draw final arc to map length of skirts 00:10:07 drawing the final arc – bottom of skirts 00:16:10 drawing seam A 00:20:24 drawing seam C between the back and side back panels 00:23:33 approach to drawing seam B 00:24:14 Part 1 cliffhanger solved! Correction to width of the back 00:26:21 re-apportioning the back and re-drawing seam C 00:27:35 …now we can draw seam B – except we end up re-assessing armscye and re-drawing seam C (again!) 00:39:54 approach to drawing darts 00:41:54 plotting how much each dart needs to deviate from straight lines drawn through seam lines 00:45:50 drawing the front peak 00:56:46 drawing the front peak 01:07:28 final check of the pattern 01:08:47 final reveal of completed master pattern 01:08:55 what’s still to come in part 3?
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2021
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~Follow along as I draft a pattern for 18th century stays || Arc method || Patterns of Fashion 5Timesmith Dress History2022-07-24 | Welcome back to my channel!
A few years ago, I uploaded a video showing my journey through drafting my very first stays pattern using the ‘arc method’ as published in of "Patterns of Fashion 5: The content, cut, construction and context of bodies, stays, hoops and rumps c.1595-1795" by Janet Arnold, Jenny Tiramani, Luca Costigliolo, Sebastien Passot, Armelle Lucas and Johannes Pietsch (The School of Historical Dress, London, 2018).
That video was heavily edited and did not include any tips or explanations about how to go about drafting in this way.
This new video series does! It covers the entire process of drafting a stays pattern using the arc method for someone else (not me), based on measurements that I took on her a few months earlier. I have learned a lot about patterning, building and wearing stays in the past few years and in this series, I attempt to share as much of my process as possible, short of filming myself teaching a step-by-step tutorial with real students.
Part 1: drawing the basic body block (setting out all the aspects of length and circumference determined by the body measurements); mapping the curves (arcs) for the placement of bust, waist and high hip within the stays; and drawing the top line (centre front neckline and armscye).
Part 2: finishing the basic block; then drafting all the pattern pieces according to the shapes of this style of stays. It ends with FINAL REVEAL OF THE MASTER PATTERN. Here is the link to Part 2: youtu.be/cbKI0jPWfsg
Part 3: taking that master pattern and converting into pattern pieces that can be used for cutting out the fabrics to build the mock-up or final stays. BONUS: Photos of the mock-up that was made from the pattern! A link to Part 3 will be added as soon as upload is available. Here is the link to Part 3: http://tinyurl.com/s8kje7dx
The pattern I am drafting in this series is the fully boned, strapless stays on pages 100-103 of “Patterns of Fashion 5”, dated to the 1760s.
Why “Patterns of Fashion 5” is the essential resource about 18th century stays:
As well as documenting materials used in surviving stays, the book contains important key excerpts from the writings and drawings of Diderot, Garsault, Reisser and Bernhardt (of whom the latter three were staymakers) and sheds new light on how stays were built and worn in the period. The arc drafting methodology has been developed by Luca Costigliolo, based on his study of those writings, his own experiments in staymaking practices, and subsequent in-person workshop teaching experiences, in his aim to devise and perfect this process to consistently produce patterns that work on a wide variety of human bodies of all shapes and sizes.
Drafting stays patterns for other people with the arc method – exactly as you see in this video series -- is a service I now offer via on my website (timesmith.co.uk/custom-pattern-drafting/p/stays). ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Here are the timestamps for "chapters", to jump straight to a particular segment of the video:
0:00:00 Intro 0:04:16 Setting out bust and waist lines 0:25:21 Deciding where to draw the arcs 0:32:51 Drawing the bust and waist arcs 0:36:45 How arcs impact placement of center front & center back lines 0:43:29 Considering lengths of front and back peaks 0:46:14 Checking proportions of topline based on chest and back measures 0:48:31 Finalising front peak length 0:49:42 Finalising back peak length 0:51:00 Drawing the high hip arc 0:56:16 Shaping the topline
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2022
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~18th Century Dressmaking: What does it mean to cut shapes?Timesmith Dress History2020-10-10 | Hello!
While the concept for draping (for any fashion time period) is often quite easy to pick up, it’s a skill that takes time and practice to perfect.
This is especially true for 18th century dressmaking, as mantua makers had to understand the garments they were making and how to fit them smoothly onto a body wearing structured undergarments. This involved knowledge of weave structures, grain line, structural stability and tensioning.
Imagine "cutting shapes on the body" as a combination of draping and drafting a body block – without any measurements or mathematical calculations!
This is a skill best learned in a teaching environment, where you go through the process yourself with a knowledgeable guide at your elbow.
That’s why this is a demonstration of the concept, not a tutorial.
As stated in this video, the shapes cut from draping will not be the same as the final pieces that make up your gown – you will still need to FIT the gown while you’re making it.
Cutting YOUR shapes is a service I offer. Please contact me for details on how to book a personal appointment with me, where I’ll drape, draw and cut your shapes and teach you how to use them in your own dressmaking.
I hope that in the not-too-distant future, workshops will be available in the UK so that more people in the UK learn how to use this method – to build a community that shares and spreads these skills. Our understanding of the past will continue to develop – and all our gowns will be even better! 😊
Further reading: Lauren Stowell and Abby Cox, The American Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking (amzn.to/34CVTkY) Marla R. Miller, The Needle's Eye: Women and Work in the Age of Revolution (amzn.to/2Iex0V6) Clare Haru Crowston, Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675–1791 (amzn.to/34AScMw)
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MUSIC Music: ‘The Celtic Flavour - Alysha Sheldon (Source: Epidemic)
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2021Top 3 Sewing Patterns for Beginners to 18th Century Dressmaking (+ Bonus Content!)Timesmith Dress History2020-09-25 | Are you new to 18th century dressmaking, looking for the best historical patterns? Look no further.
All opinions and recommendations are my own, based on my personal use of the patterns and books mentioned.
++ This video is not sponsored by any of the pattern companies, pattern drafters, authors, researchers, publishers or teachers mentioned in this video. ++
• Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 1 (scheduled to be reprinted in 2021 by The School of Historical Dress) • Baumgarten, Linda, Costume Close Up (Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 1999) • Bradfield, Nancy, Costume in Detail (Costume & Fashion Press, 1981) • Burnston, Sharon Ann, Fitting & Proper (Scurlock Pub Co, 2000) • Waugh, Norah ‘The Cut of Women’s Clothes’ (Faber & Faber, 1968)
0:00:00 00:00:37 Your Goals 00:01:48 Before You Start... 00:04:00 Why use *historical* patterns? 00:08:44 Pros and Cons 00:09:10 --- J P Ryan 00:12:21 --- Mill Farm 00:14:06 --- Larkin & Smith 00:16:55 Your Choice Matters 00:19:17 Gridded Patterns 00:21:31 --- Patterns of Fashion 1 00:23:23 --- Costume Close Up 00:25:52 --- Fitting & Proper 00:26:38 --- The Cut of Women's Clothes 00:28:16 --- Costume In Detail 00:30:00 How Gridded Patterns Can Help 00:39:11 ** RECOMMENDED PATH ** 00:42:36 --- The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking 00:47:16 "Shapes"?
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Music: ‘Nadir’ by Gavin Luke (Source: YouTube Audio Library) Join Epidemic to access tons of music for YOUR videos! epidemicsound.com/referral/v5uc9b
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020My Top 8 Picks! Books About 18th Century FashionTimesmith Dress History2020-09-10 | Whether you’re new to 18th century fashion or have been studying it for decades, here are 8 books I highly recommend, along with links on where they can be found if you’re buying from the UK.
These do NOT include books containing patterns or detailed construction notes – those will be discussed next week when we talk about patterns! Please note also my own area of research focuses on some big black holes in what’s known about women’s clothing parts of the British Isles, and this list of specific books represents the backbone of existing scholarship for this part of the world.
0:00 01:49 How to identify 18th century styles - lots of visuals! 05:30 The contexts of 18th century dress - English society and the roles of clothing 11:47 Patterns and prints in cottons - primary sources to train your eye!
In order of discussion:
• Lydia Edwards “How to Read a Dress” (Bloomsbury, 2017) amzn.to/35iWcD9 • Aileen Ribeiro “A Visual History of Costume – the Eighteenth Century” (Batsford, 1983) amzn.to/35iWcD9 • Aileen Ribeiro “The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France, 1750-1820” (Yale University Press, 1995) amzn.to/35lz0nV
• Anne Buck “Dress in Eighteenth-Century England” (Batsford, 1979) amzn.to/3m4QtXy • John Styles “The Dress of the People” (Yale University Press, 2007) amzn.to/3m4QtXy • Nancy Bradford “Costume In Detail 1730-1930” (Costume & Fashion Press, 1981) amzn.to/3ieEmFk
• John Styles “Threads of Feeling – the London Foundling Hospital’s Textile Tokens, 1740-1770” (The Foundling Museum, 2010) amzn.to/3ichI0f • Barbara Johnson’s Album of Fashions and Fabrics (Thames & Hudson, 1987) amzn.to/33bYelR
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020
history, historical dress, costume, 18th century, top 8 books, living history, historical reconstruction, historical reproduction, historical replica, #wemakehistory, #historymakesus, mantua-maker, historical dressmaker,Setting Up & Using a Gravity Feed Iron | Unboxing | PLUS Waxing & Ironing Sewing ThreadsTimesmith Dress History2020-09-03 | Hello!
Do you have questions about gravity feed irons? - What are they? - How do they work? - What makes them different from other types of irons? - How do you use them?
What you really want to know is: “Are they any good? Should I buy one???!”
This video aims to answer all those questions!
Follow along as I unbox my Silver Star Industrial ES-300, get to grips with all its components, set it up, explain how it works and show you how to use it.
I also demonstrate how to wax and iron linen sewing thread. 😉
It’s the only model I found, after about a year of researching, that is wired for 220v so that it does not need a currency converter (like this: amzn.to/2ELmJOD) . It did come with a European plug however so still needed an adapter to plug into UK mains (like this: amzn.to/2Dfz3Ga)
Any questions, please do ask in the comments below.
Happy ironing!
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MUSIC Music: ‘Fond Memories’ (Source: YouTube Audio Library)
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020Making My Own Isabella MacTavish Fraser Dress #theisabellaprojectTimesmith Dress History2020-08-28 | Hello!
In the summer of 2019, a team of historical mantua-makers and seamstresses re-created the making of the famous 1785 Isabella MacTavish Fraser wedding gown.
I was the team lead for this project.
As many of you know, the whole Isabella Project started with the idea of making my own version of the original gown - on my own, by myself, no one needs to know about it, etc.
Well. The fates had other ideas!
More than two years later, I find myself looking back on an incredible collaboration that has produced a wealth of information, including PDF pattern and a detailed set of instructions.
So at the start of the COVID-19 Lockdown 2020, I embarked on making a tartan gown for myself, using the wonderful American Duchess pattern. I tried to capture at every angle as I went, testing every stage, to see if we have succeeded in making it all make sense, to BRING THE DRESS TO YOU as we promised to do.
00:00:00 00:13:46 Starting with Shapes Cut to the Body – Cutting Bodice Linings 00:15:00 Pleating the Back Bodice 00:19:23 Attaching Pleated Tartan Back to Lining 00:22:01 Cutting & Assembling Bodice Fronts 00:30:55 ~ REWIND! ~ 00:34:41 Re-cutting Bodice Fronts 00:41:30 Draping, Cutting & Assembling Sleeves 00:47:53 Making Cuffs 00:49:57 Fitting the Bodice 00:52:40 ~ A Look at How The Team Worked on the Project Gown ~ 00:56:42 Finalising the Bodice Fit at the Side Seams 00:57:57 Drawing the Waistline & Making the “Scary Cut” 01:02:48 Attaching & Pleating the Skirts 01:12:00 Attaching the Skirts to the Bodice 01:12:49 Setting the Sleeves 01:26:14 Stitching the Outer Back Bodice Pleat 01:27:35 Attaching Cuffs 01:29:22 DONE!
Check out my shop for merchandise available in the Isabella tartan: tinyurl.com/yalz2fm8
RESOURCES:
Video about le point à rabattre sous la main (aka underhand hem) stitch: youtu.be/tNQmrxpm5oA
► My Mackenzie Ancient tartan gown – Rebecca Olds. ► The original 1785 gown – Rebecca Olds, Peryn Westhof-Nyman and Katy Stockwell. ► Except where specifically noted, all photos of the 2019 re-creation event at the National Museums Scotland were taken by Simon Lees (commissioned by Rebecca Olds) and edited by Lauren Stowell. All rights reserved.
“Highland Hymn” by Bonnie Grace and “Raise Your Swords” by Trabant 33 (Epidemic Sound) Join Epidemic to access tons of music for YOUR videos! epidemicsound.com/referral/v5uc9b
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020
#theisabellaproject, Isabella MacTavish Fraser, Isabella McTavish Fraser, Fraser, Scotland, Highlands, tartan, history, historical dress, costume, demonstration, Highlands, Highlander, #therealFraserbride, Jacobite, 18th century, living history, Scottish history, historical reconstruction, historical reproduction, historical replica, live event, Jacobite, #wemakehistory, #historymakesus, #everyinchhandstitched, mantua maker, mantua making, historical dressmakerAugust 2020 Update! Busy with 18th c. staymaking, university, injury, Patreon...!Timesmith Dress History2020-08-20 | Well, hello there, you beautiful people! Who knew we'd make so many new friends at CoCoVid - wasn't it amazing?
I don't know about you, but YouTube is a new hangout for me. I've only really been here since June but wow, it's an exciting place these days.
If you've got a particular interest in 18th century clothing, then I promise you are absolutely in the right place. I hope after watching this video (and a couple others I've linked in it), you'll agree with me. 😉
This video is a brief update on current projects - making 18th century stays as part of a bigger project that will culminate in making a 1760s long sack (aka robe a la francaise) - within the broader scheme of things, i.e. going back to university as a stepping-stone to going into post-graduate research work, also treating and trying to recovery from tendonitis, sifting through all my notes, photos and data on past 18th century reconstruction projects to try and assemble into formats I can share here on YouTube. It's all go here!
Please introduce yourself in the comments! (And don't forget to hit 'like' and 'subscribe' - new video every week, usually on Thursday. 😀
Music: ‘Cigars and Limousines’ by Cercles Nouvelles (Source: YouTube Audio Library)
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AABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020De-mystifying 18th Century Stitches with Confusing Names!Timesmith Dress History2020-08-13 | Hello!
Welcome to another video in my mission to de-mystify 18th century stitches. Today, we tackle two stitches with confusing names - because they didn't actually have names back in the 18th century - not in English, that is. But researchers know they had names in *other* languages and we do have modern names for them now, too. So let's untangle them so YOU know what they are and how to use them.
IMAGES & CITATIONS
‘Costume Close Up’ by Linda Baumgarten and John Watson with Florine Carr (Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 1999)
Polonaise, c. 1775-85 later altered – Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Accession No. 2006-42
Quarter back gown, c. 1785 – Manchester Art Gallery, Accession No. 1952.365/2
Redingote, c. 1785 – Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Accession No. M.2009.120
LEARN MORE ABOUT THESE TWO CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES IN BLOGS & VIDEO TUTORIALS:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenwear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020Making 18th Century Stays, Part 2 - Building & Fitting a Mock-upTimesmith Dress History2020-08-07 | ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Have you ever come across a gown or ensemble held in a museum and felt you simply HAD to make it for yourself?
In some situations, you might be able to examine or even handle the garment(s) and learn about their construction.
But what do you do if you can't see the garment(s) up-close, or even visit the museum in which they are held?
How do you get started? Who do you ask for help? What questions do you need answered?
Rebecca Olds and Sarah Walsh have both been in your shoes and are here to talk about what worked, and what didn't, when they tackled very different projects - Rebecca with leading a team to re-create the Isabella MacTavish Fraser wedding gown, Sarah Walsh in making her replica of the purple striped French gown owned by LACMA.
We'll share our strategies and tips, to help YOU turn your dream project into a reality.
Our heartfelt thanks go to our friends in the historical communities who wholly heartedly supported and assisted us. Without them, these replica gowns would not have been made.
YOUR FRIENDS WILL HELP YOU MAKE YOUR DREAM PROJECT HAPPEN AND SUCCEED.
Rebecca is an historical dressmaker and independent practice-based researcher specialising in the study of women’s garments, underpinnings and millinery in England and Scotland from approximately 1690-1790. She applies her research and tests her understanding of period construction techniques through re-creation or re-construction of extant objects held in public and private collections. She is currently researching non-elite women’s dress in Scotland during the eighteenth century.
Rebecca started this YouTube channel in the run-up to the Isabella re-creation demonstration at the National Museums of Scotland in Edinburgh, back in June 2019, and is now using this platform to share more of her research and reconstruction projects. (Further profile and contact details are below.)
SARAH WALSH @founding.mother on Instagram
Sarah is a school librarian by profession and has been sewing for about 25 years. She learned how to sew on her mother's ancient Singer Featherweight and has done a great deal of costuming and modern clothing construction by machine from commercial patterns. In 2016, after playing Abigail Adams in the musical “1776,” she had the opportunity to begin portraying Abigail in living history re-enactments. At that point, she narrowed her focus and started learning historical dressmaking techniques, including draping and millinery, with the goal of creating a full wardrobe suitable to the different stages in Abigail's rather extraordinary life.
Sarah's work in living history can be followed on Instagram as @founding.mother and on Facebook at facebook.com/FoundingMother/.
She is also a co-founder of the virtual educational program "Living History Live" (facebook.com/livinghistorylive), launched during COVID-19 school closures in 2020, which aims to bring living history to the classroom and beyond.
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Human-made subtitles by Lynn Intini, added 28th August 2020. ❤️
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MUSIC: Mozart - Rondo alla Turca (from Motion Array)
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESSMAKING:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Have you heard of the “rolled hem” stitch? Do you use it yourself?
Did you know there are TWO stitches with this name?! Oh, my, the confusion…
Well, this video talks about their similarities and differences and how they were used, with full demonstrations of both, so you can see how they work and be able to tell them apart from each other.
They really do need their own names…
Happy hemming!
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MUSIC: Recorder Concerto No 1 - Cercles Nouvelles (Epidemic)
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Our wide ranging discussion looks at the origins, manufacture, uses and fashions of "chintz", defined here by reference to how the fabric was made in India. We also share tips on sources for reproduction fabrics today and how to best use them in modern costuming.
This video is part of CoCoVid, a collective effort by members of the costuming community to provide educational content this weekend when many of us were planning to be attending Costume College, the annual costumers' conference in Los Angeles. CoCoVid is FREE for all to attend and is NOT affiliated with Costume College or its organisers. If you would like to see more videos by all of the wonderful creators participating in CoCoVid, we have a downloadable, printable program with links directly to each person's channel, here: shorturl.at/blzN1
00:00:00 Start 00:01:37 - What exactly is Chintz? 00:02:52 - How is it made? 00:08:56 - What is its history? (Is it implicated in the slave trade?) 00:21:42 - When was it worn in Europe? 00:23:14 - How was it worn? 00:34:00 - By whom? 00:37:50 - What garments? 00:49:50 - How was it combined with other garments? (Did they really wear different chintzes together??) 00:58:24 - Colour preferences - Dutch vs other Europeans (those dark backgrounds...) 01:03:38 - Traditional Dutch Dress 01:08:00 - Sources of reproduction Chintz for costumers and reenactors today
IMAGES Attributions / citations are included in the video.
DUTCH MUSEUM COLLECTIONS ONLINE (search on "sits"): Rijksmuseum - https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/search/advanced Fries Museum - https://collectie.friesmuseum.nl/?query=*:* https://www.modemuze.nl/collecties
FURTHER READING
• Arnolli, Gieneke, Sits: Katoen in bloei (Uitgeverij WBOOKS, 2016) amzn.to/2OrqjyO • Beckert, Sven, Empire of Cotton: A New History of Global Capitalism (Penguin, 2015) amzn.to/30fKntx • De Vos, Winnifred, Pronck & Prael: sits in Holland : hoe Indiase sits het Nederlandse leven veranderde (Uitgeverij Waanders & de Kunst, 2019) amzn.to/2CcOVsA • Fee, Sarah (Ed.), Cloth that Changed the World: The Art and Fashion of Indian Chintz (Yale University Press, 2020) amzn.to/30fssTx • Hartkamp-Jonxis, Ebeltje (Ed.), Sits: Oost-West Relaties in Textiel (Uitgeverij Waanders-Zwolle, 1987) amzn.to/3esCkOZ • Peck, Amelia, Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade 1500-1800 (Thames and Hudson Ltd, 2013) amzn.to/2ZuDNA3 • Riello, Giorgio, Cotton: The Fabric That Made the Modern World (Cambridge University Press, 2015) amzn.to/2WjCl1G
FABRIC REPRODUCTIONS
Indian textile artist Renuka Reddy http://www.redtreetextilestudio.com (Google for guest blogs written by Renuka for the Fries and V&A Museums.)
Dutch Chintz reproduction fabrics made in The Netherlands: * https://www.dutchfabric.nl - repros from 17th through 19th century based on textiles in French, Dutch and Belgian museums. English language option. Categories: “Chintzes” (“sits” in Dutch) for styles we talked about, as commonly made in India for the Dutch market; "Block prints” includes a few that were more to English tastes; “Indiennes” reflect influences we see today in French regional dress; “Dutch checks” are commonly seen in Dutch traditional dress today. NOTE: The chintzes from this company are GLAZED to closely reproduce the look and feel of the historical textiles.
* dutchquilts.com - quilting cottons reflecting a variety of historical styles and tastes including Dutch, French and English. The Dutch Heritage range is available from a number of retailers in the UK. NOTE: Quilting cottons are more loosely woven and are NOT glazed.
* Indian block printed cottons on ebay/etsy The costuming communities are happy to share recommendations!
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020Making 18th Century Stays, Part 1 - Pattern Drafting with the Arc MethodTimesmith Dress History2020-07-23 | Hello! I invite you to follow along as I draft a pattern for 1760s stays using the arc method outlined in “Pattern of Fashion 5”!
The stays I want to make are the 1760s example shown on pages 100-103 of "Patterns of Fashion 5: The content, cut, construction and context of bodies, stays, hoops and rumps c.1595-1795" by Janet Arnold, Jenny Tiramani, Luca Costigliolo, Sebastien Passot, Armelle Lucas and Johannes Pietsch (The School of Historical Dress, London, 2018)
The arc drafting methodology has been developed by Luca Costiglioli based on his extensive study of period documents. ‘Patterns of Fashion 5’ contains important key excerpts from the writings and drawings of Diderot, Garsault, Reisser and Bernhardt (of whom the latter three were staymakers) and sheds new light on how stays were built and worn in the period.
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Music: Third movement of Piano Sonata #11 In A, K 331 “Rondo Alla Turca” by Mozart (licensed from Motion Array)
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020
#costube #wemakehistory #historymakesus #historicalsewing #staymakerLECTURE: The Isabella MacTavish Fraser Gown - The Historical Contexts of a 1785 Tartan Wedding DressTimesmith Dress History2020-06-29 | This talk will appeal to anyone with an interest in fashion history, Scottish history, in tartan or material culture of the 18th century, in women's trades, whether you are a reenactor, costumer, academic or museum professional.
In the summer of 2019, a team of historical mantua-makers and seamstresses re-created the making of the famous 1785 Isabella MacTavish Fraser wedding gown. I was the team lead for this project.
Beginning with a talk at the National Museums Scotland in Edinburgh in October 2019, I have taken the re-created dress on tour to share the details of the project and what can be learned from reconstructing an original 18th century gown.
Here is the slide presentation that formed the basis of the talks scheduled for the USA in March 2020. The first talk in the tour was held on 3rd March at the Keeler Tavern Museum & History Center in Ridgefield, Connecticut, but the talk on 14th March at Woodlawn Manor House in Sandy Spring, Maryland, had to be called off when the venue was closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
In person, this talk is accompanied by a Q&A session and followed by a hands-on study of the recreated gown.
Merchandise in the Isabella tartan available directly from my shop: tinyurl.com/yalz2fm8
CITATIONS & SOURCES: • Arnold, Janet ‘Patterns of Fashion” (1984) • Waugh, Norah ‘The Cut of Women’s Clothes’ (1968) • The Metropolitan Museum of Art (1690s mantua: Accession No. 33.54a–c) • The Metropolitan Museum of Art (1710 mantua: Accession No. 1991.6.1a, b_01) • The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (1750s wool brocade gown: Accession No. 1988.223) • National Museums Scotland (1740s Indian cotton gown: Accession No. A.1979.1110 • Victoria & Albert Museum (Accession No. 271-1898) • Gown originally in the collection of Doris Langley Moore, sold at auction (Kerry Taylor) 2012. invaluable.com/auction-lot/an-embroidered-lawn-robe-a-l-anglaise,-circa-78-c-08c4a79de0 • The DAR Museum (1780s quarter-backed gown: Accession No. 2005.1.1) • Antoine Raspal, The Couturiers Workshop, c. 1785, Musée Réattu, Arles, France • Lewis Walpole Library, The Pretty Mantua Maker, Folio 72 771 D37 v.2 plate 6 • Morning Herald and Daily Advertiser (London), December 5, 1782 • Morning Herald and Daily Advertiser (London), (date not cited) 1782 • Edinburgh City Archives • Caledonian Mercury (Edinburgh), Thursday 05 October 1721. • Helen Murray of Ochtertyre, approximately 8 years old, painted circa 1750 (artist disputed). See scottishtartans.co.uk/Murray_of_Ochtertyre.pdf • Garters authenticated by the Victoria & Albert Museum, sold at auction (Bonhams) 2019. bonhams.com/auctions/25363/lot/275/?category=list&length=10&page=28 • Abolition and Proscription of the Highland Dress 19 George II, Chap. 39, Sec. 17, 1746 • http://www.tartansauthority.com • Burt’s Letters from the North of Scotland as related by Edmund Burt (available on books.google.co.uk) • The Journal of A Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson, L.L.D. by James Boswell, Esq. (available on books.google.co.uk) • en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waulking_song • Richard Waitt, The Hen Wife (date disputed) • James Besire (English), A Lady in the Highlands of Scotland, 1759, National Galleries Scotland, Accession No. PGE 49 • Sketches by Paul Sandby (English) in Edinburgh, c. 1750, British Museum.
FURTHER READING • Waine, R. “From Rebellion to Romantic Appreciation: the wearing of tartan following the Act of Proscription” in History Scotland, Vol. 19 No. 6 November/December 2019 • timesmith-dressmaker.co.uk/reading-list
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PHOTO CREDITS:
My thanks to the following photographers for their enthusiasm and support before, during and after the project and for their generosity in granting permission for their photos to be used in presentations, talks and articles in connection with this project: Clare Campbell / Prickly Thistle, Inverness Museum & Art Gallery, Lauren Stowell / American Duchess, Inc., Chas Whatmore / Sole Productions, Simon Lees, Atelier Nostalgia, Peryn Westerhof-Nyman, Katy Stockwell, Dr Alison Mayne. All rights reserved.
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Music: “Highland Hymn” by Bonnie Grace (Epidemic Sound)
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020Costumers Quarantine 20 Questions #lockdown2020Timesmith Dress History2020-06-08 | Thank you to Robin @SewLoud for hosting this #CosTube Challenge. 😊 youtu.be/1bkphli-R7U
I am wearing a wrapper of Dutch chintz lined in silk taffeta, a fine linen shift and cap, fully boned stays – all made by myself.
Sewn Company (Sarah Woodyard offers clear, calm instruction in hand sewing for historical and modern projects #rememberwhatyourhandscando) youtube.com/channel/UCI76QID4NG3MwCDwnUaVY3Q
Neal Hurst (historic tailor and associate museum curator, presenting research into historical clothing including virtual hands-on examination of original garments in museum collections) youtube.com/channel/UCatJbAEjsOky12VsAAwjCLg
The Welsh Viking (everything you ever wanted to know but were afraid to ask about Medieval clothing, by Jimmy Johnson – highly entertaining as well as educational) youtube.com/channel/UCu-drfhNohk9NVuqzgS6Elw
The Beginner’s Guide to the 18th Century (reenactor Kendall Kendrick hosts interviews and online classes, with a new membership community launching in July 2020) youtube.com/channel/UCkM2yDpyUIrijAtrNTHAkEg
Music: ‘Theme for a one-handed piano concerto’ (YouTube Audio Library)
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020The Age of the Mantua Maker or, why the 18th century?Timesmith Dress History2020-06-03 | Hello! I am delighted you have joined me on this new YouTube Channel, all about real clothing, made by real women and worn by real women during the “Age of the Mantua-Maker”!
I absolutely love this era – not only for its innovative fashions but for the commitment, skills and pragmatism of the women who learned, mastered and practised this trade.
Join me here as we research original surviving garments from the late 17th century and 18th century, examine how they were made, have a go at reconstructing them and learn a lot along the way about how women experienced their clothing, followed and adapted changing fashions (or not), while hopefully shining a light on the skilled women making those clothes – the long overlooked and almost forgotten mantua-makers.
I hope you enjoy the discussions, tutorials and research-based experiments to come.
Images in this video:
• The Pretty Mantua Maker, 1772, Lewis Walpole Library, Yale University, Folio 72 771 D37 v.2 plate 6 • Marie-Therese rein de France, c.1660, by Jean Nocret • La Couturière, 1695, by Nicolas de Larmessin • Lady at the Tailor, c.1760, by Pietro Longhi • Mantua, British, c.1690, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Accession No. 33.54a–c h • Robe Volante, c.1730, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Accession No. 2010.148 • Nightgown, c.1725, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Accession No. C.I.64.14 • Nightgown, 1750-1765, Colonial Williamsburg, Accession No. 1988-223 • Robe à la française retroussé, c.1775, Los Angeles County Art Museum, Accession No. M.2007.211.720a-b • Italian gown, c.1780, from the collection of Doris Langley Moore, sold at auction 2012 • Redingote, c.1790, Los Angeles County Art Museum, Accession No. M.2009.120 • La Bonne couturière, late 17th c by Nicolas Arnoult • Trade Card of M Giles, Mantua Maker, 1770s, London, British Museum • Trade Card of M. Hammond, Saqua & Mantua Maker, 1784, British Museum • At Sandpit Gate, circa 1752, by Paul Sandby, Royal Collection Trust RCIN 914328 • The Seamstress, 1765, by Philip Mercier, Yale University • Marquise de Pompadour, 1759, by François Boucher (1759), Wallace Collection, London • Miss Eleanor Frances Dixie, 1759, by Henry Pickering, Nottingham Castle Museum and Art Gallery • Mrs Charles Willing, 1746, by Robert Feke • Madame Charles Pierre Pécoul, née Potain, belle-mère de l'artiste, 1784, by Jacques Louis David, Grand Palais (Musée du Louvre) • L'Atelier de couture a Arles (Sewing Workshop in Arles), c.1760, by Antoine Raspal
Further photos from the live demonstration of re-creating the Isabella MacTavish Fraser wedding gown, June 2019. A Timesmith Dressmaking production in partnership with National Museums of Scotland. Model: Georgia Gough Lead Mantua Maker: Abby Cox Photos: Simon Lees, edited by Lauren Stowell. All rights reserved.
Further reading:
• Birt, Sarah - PhD candidate Birkbeck College (Department of History, Classics and Archaeology) researching 'A Fashionable Business: Mantua-makers, Milliners and Seamstresses in London c. 1670-1770’. (afashionablebusiness.wordpress.com) • Crowston, Clare Haru 'Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675-1791' (Duke University Press, 2001) • Davidson, Hilary (2019) The Embodied Turn: Making and Remaking Dress as an Academic Practice, Fashion Theory, 23:3, 329-362 • Dowdell, Carolyn Anne (2010) The Fruits of Nimble Fingers: Garment Construction and the Working Lives of Eighteenth-Century English Needlewomen. MA thesis, University of Alberta • Erickson, Dr Amy (2019) “City Women in the 18th Century: An outdoor exhibition of women traders in Cheapside, London” (http://citywomen.hist.cam.ac.uk) • Sanderson, Elizabeth (2001) The 'New Dresses': A Look at How Mantuamaking Became Established in Scotland, Costume, 35:1 14-23 • Sanderson, Elizabeth C. 'Women and Work in Eighteenth-Century Edinburgh' (Palgrave Macmillan, 1996) • Simonton, Deborah ‘Sister to the tailor: guilds, gender and the needle trades in eighteenth-century Europe’ In: Ilmakunnas, J., Rahikainen, M. and Vainio-Korhonen (eds.) ‘Early Professional Women in Northern Europe, c. 1650-1850’ (Routledge, 2018) • Styles, John 'The Dress of the People' (Yale University Press, 2007) • Vickery, Amanda ‘The Gentleman’s Daughter: Women’s Lives in Georgian England’ (New Haven and London, 1998)
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020Welcome to my YouTube Channel! Meet Rebecca Olds (ft. additional vocals by squawky seagulls)Timesmith Dress History2020-06-01 | Hello! I am delighted to launch a new YouTube Channel, all about real clothing, made by real women and worn by real women during the “Age of the Mantua-Maker”!
Join me here as we research original surviving garments from the late 17th century and 18th century, examine how they were made, have a go at reconstructing them and learn a lot along the way about how women experienced their clothing, followed and adapted changing fashions (or not), while hopefully shining a light on the skilled women making those clothes – the long overlooked and almost forgotten mantua-makers.
I hope you enjoy the discussions, tutorials and research-based experiments to come.
In this video, I mention the role that American Duchess played in pointing me down the path of period-correct cut and construction, initially through their book "The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking" (available directly from american-duchess.com/book/american-duchess-guide), and then also their encouragement to seek out hands-on teaching by tailors, mantua-makers and milliners, especially those trained through Colonial Williamsburg's historic trades programme. AD on YouTube: youtube.com/channel/UCWLNaVKBl4EskUQUXWRZkew
Top quality hands-on historical sewing tuition is also available from Sarah Woodyard (a Colonial Williamsburg "graduate" journeywoman mantua-maker and milliner) through her company, Sewn Company. Website to register for classes: sewncompany.com Sewn on YouTube: youtube.com/channel/UCI76QID4NG3MwCDwnUaVY3Q
(These are NOT sponsored links or affiliates! I have personally benefited from the hands-on, supervised, research-based training available from both B&T and Sewn Company. I want you, too, to know where you can go to get that.)
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Music: ‘Eine Kleine Nachtmusik’ by Mozart (Source: YouTube Audio Library)
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020
#theisabellaproject, history, historical dress, costume, 18th century, living history, historical reconstruction, historical reproduction, historical replica, #wemakehistory, #historymakesus, mantua-maker, historical dressmaker,Dressing the Re-created Isabella MacTavish Fraser GownTimesmith Dress History2020-05-26 | Here I chat about setting up the re-created gown at events and share my solutions to some of the issues encountered when travelling, to make sure I can set up quickly and smoothly in any venue.
Filmed in one of the historic houses at Colonial Williamsburg on my visit in March 2020. (This is not a promotion and I have no affiliation with CW Resorts! I simply love staying there. 😊 )
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2020LECTURE: The Isabella MacTavish Fraser Wedding Gown In A Weekend the Romance and the RealityTimesmith Dress History2020-05-16 | A Talk Presented 4 October 2019 at the National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK, as part of its Tartan Study Afternoon also featuring talks by Dr Rosie Waine, Jonathan Faiers and Peter Macdonald.
This talk is about the research carried out in 2019 into the fabric, cut and construction of the iconic tartan gown worn by Isabella MacTavish Fraser in 1785, culminating in a live re-creation of this gown over the weekend of 29-30 June 2019 as a public event at the National Museum of Scotland, as part of the public programming for the major exhibition "Wild and Majestic: Romantic Visions of Scotland", in which the original dress was displayed.
For more information about the project and re-creation event, please see the mini-documentary by American Duchess: youtu.be/43ZTV_YxlgI
Music: "Passing Places" by Ross Wilson and Lyle Watt. Used with kind permission. This is Track 4 on the album "The Water of Leith" by Blue Rose Code, featuring: Seonaid Aitken - Violin Angus Lyon - Accordion Kathleen MacInnes - Vox Wild Lyle Watt - Acoustic Guitar
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2019The Isabella McTavish Fraser Wedding Gown In A Weekend ProjectTimesmith Dress History2020-05-16 | ** THIS WAS THE EARLY PROMO VIDEO FOR #THEISABELLAPROJECT IN 2019 ** THANK YOU FOR YOUR LOVE & SUPPORT IN MAKING THIS EVENT HAPPEN.
Please contact me if you are planning an event programme and would like to invite me to speak about the history, cut and construction of this iconic gown and share our recreated dress.
Sewing workshops also available! (Sorry, the reproduction hard tartan fabric is no longer available.)
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You love this dress... now you can live it!
Your support for our IndieGoGo crowdfunding campaign will make it possible for our team of historical dressmakers to make a faithful reproduction of this iconic and quintessentially Scottish 18th century gown before a live audience the weekend of 29-30 June 2019 at the National Museum of Scotland. Perks include the chance to get the dress pattern and even secure a discount on reproduction fabric to make your own. The event will be filmed and the replica dress and documentary will go on tour in 2020.
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2019Lauren meets the Isabella Merino Scarf and its LOVETimesmith Dress History2019-06-26 | Bespoke merino scarf in the Isabella MacTavish Fraser tartan! Details over on Facebook: facebook.com/commerce/products/2129629860481262 along with other merchandise commissioned as part of the Isabella Project.
* * THE ISABELLA PROJECT * * THANK YOU FOR YOUR LOVE & SUPPORT IN MAKING THIS EVENT HAPPEN.
Please contact me if you are planning an event programme and would like to invite me to speak about the history, cut and construction of this iconic gown and share our recreated dress. Sewing workshops also available!
The reproduction hard tartan fabric is no longer available.
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ABOUT TIMESMITH DRESS HISTORY:
I am Rebecca Olds, an independent scholar in the field of Dress History, specialising in original practice reconstruction of extant garments of the eighteenth century.
Maker | Teacher | Researcher | Consultant timesmith.co.uk Business enquiries: rebecca@timesmith.co.uk ► Commissions welcome! #everyinchhandstitched ► Book me to teach a workshop or speak at your event! ► Currently available for individual research and project consultation (English & Scottish 18th century womenswear only). ► Please contact me about your consultancy needs.
Copyright Rebecca Olds 2019Isabella MacTavish Fraser Wedding Gown In A Weekend CROWDFUNDER = May/June 2019Timesmith Dress History2019-05-19 | This video formed part of an IndieGoGo crowdfunding campaign that ended 30 June 2019.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR LOVE & SUPPORT IN MAKING THIS EVENT HAPPEN.
Your support for our IndieGoGo crowdfunding campaign made it possible for our team of historical dressmakers to make a faithful reproduction of this iconic and quintessentially Scottish 18th century gown before a live audience the weekend of 29-30 June 2019 at the National Museum of Scotland.
Please contact me if you are planning an event programme and would like to invite me to speak about the history, cut and construction of this iconic gown and share our recreated dress.
Sewing workshops also available! (Sorry, the reproduction hard tartan fabric is no longer available.)
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I am Rebecca Olds, an independent researcher, 'original practice' maker and teacher of reconstructed historical clothing of the 18th century.