Cleversolarpower by Nick
How Many Solar Panels for a 3000W Inverter at 12V? Save $
updated
Bench power supply for 48V batteries: amzn.to/4dZFMmQ
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
If your LiFePO4 battery never seems to finish charging or the voltage cuts off earlier than expected, you most likely have a cell imbalance. In this video I explain how to tell if your battery is balanced, what the numbers actually mean, and when you even need to do anything about it.
I cover three methods for balancing: using a standard charger, using an MPPT with a solar panel, and using a bench power supply. Each method has its own advantages and limitations, and I walk through the exact steps for each one including how to approach it if your battery has a Bluetooth BMS versus a dumb BMS with no app.
The good news is that most batteries do not need manual balancing right out of the box. LiFePO4 cells should matched at the factory and the BMS handles small drifts over time. But if you have a battery with a low balancing current and a high balance start voltage, the BMS may not be able to keep up on its own, and that is where these methods come in.
Litime US: cleversolarpower.com/go/li12v100ahG24 10% discount: clp10
Litime EU: cleversolarpower.com/go/li12v100ahg24EU 10% discount: clp10
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
Link to the Github tool: github.com/calledit/LiTime_BMS_bluetooth?tab=readme-ov-file
I tested the LiTime 12V 100Ah group 24 LiFePO4 battery, one of the more expensive options on the market at $320. Does it deliver?
In this video: capacity test results, BMS teardown, balancing current measurement, MOSFET temperatures at 100A, and a close look at the app.
The litime app hides individual cell voltages. I'll show you a workaround tool that unlocks the full BMS data.
00:00 intro
00:29 capacity test
02:25 size comparison
02:48 parallel discharge test
03:57 thermal imaging
04:45 look inside
05:34 cells information
06:12 temperature tests
08:32 BMS
11:15 APP
15:58 Conclusion
Better alternative: cleversolarpower.com/go/vatrer12v100Ah
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
Video to other reviewer: youtu.be/iABKHY2Q5zo?si=D_b6viXTjMBdW49G&t=1475
In this video I review the WattCycle 12V 100Ah Bluetooth Mini LiFePO4 battery. This battery is from the European warehouse but the one in the US is the same. I run a full capacity test, open it up, inspect the cells and BMS, test the temperature protection, and run it in parallel with another battery to check current sharing.
I found several issues with this battery including swollen cells, a low balancing current, a high MOSFET temperature disconnect threshold, and concerns around the balance wires. WattCycle responded to my findings and I include their response at the end of the video so you can judge for yourself.
My battery review policy: cleversolarpower.com/batteryreview
00:00 intro
00:36 capacity test
01:36 parallel discharge test
02:16 opening the battery
03:50 first look inside
04:40 thermal imaging test
05:23 high current discharge test
06:06 battery internal structure
08:14 swollen cells
09:46 BMS
10:53 temperature tests
14:53 APP
18:16 conclusion
18:53 company response
EU Version: amzn.to/4vdIY4o
Victron Multiplus 12V 2000VA: amzn.to/4m8FrjD
Pre-Crimped Cables: cleversolarpower.com/go/50mmcable
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I test the Renogy 12V 2000W pure sine wave inverter: efficiency, real world loads, noise, and a UPS feature that doesn't work the way you'd expect.
I run it through three efficiency tests and compare the results against my Power Queen 2000W. I also test it on a microwave, kettle, fridge, and 2000W heater to see what it can actually handle in a real off grid setup.
Before you buy this inverter, there are a few things worth knowing, including a cable issue and a limitation with the UPS function that Renogy doesn't make obvious. I explain all of it, including what size battery you need to run this safely on 12V.
The US version of this inverter includes a built-in GFCI. If you're on the EU version, you'll need to wire one in yourself. I cover that too.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
Everyone buying a lithium iron phosphate battery looks at the same number: cycle life. 3,000 cycles. 6,000 cycles. 15,000 cycles. But in this video I'm going to show you why that number is almost irrelevant for most people, and what actually determines how long your battery lasts.
I have two real cells with factory capacity tests printed right on them. A 280Ah cell that has been sitting in storage for three and a half years, and a 100Ah EVE cell from a Vatrer battery pack that is 15 months old. I tested both with a DL24 capacity tester and compared the results against the factory numbers. The results tell a very clear story about calendar aging. The degradation that happens to your battery whether you use it or not.
I also cover what is actually happening inside the cell on the whiteboard. The SEI and CEI layers that form over time, why heat and high state of charge speed up the process, and why storing at 0% is just as bad as storing at 100%.
I then introduce a new way to think about battery longevity not in cycles, but in years. Based on these real world tests, a well stored LiFePO4 cell should take approximately 14 years to reach 80% of its original capacity. That is the number that matters for solar, off grid, and backup power users.
The video also covers the difference between cell health and pack health, why you still need to charge to 100% periodically for BMS balancing, how C-rate and heat during daily use affect aging, and why BMS quality matters just as much as cell quality and possibly more.
Naumann et al. 2018 — Analysis and modeling of calendar aging of a commercial LiFePO4/graphite cell
sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2352152X18300665
ACS Applied Energy Materials 2025 — Deciphering the Calendar Aging Degradation Mechanism of LiFePO4-Graphite Pouch Cells
pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsaem.4c02761
Vachenauer et al. 2025 — Shelf life of lithium-ion batteries: Recommissioning LiFePO4/C cells after ten years of uninterrupted calendar aging
sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378775325016155
Applied Sciences 2025 — Study on Influencing Factors of Calendar Aging and Cycle Aging of LFP Batteries
mdpi.com/2076-3417/15/23/12749
Buy the panel on their website: cleversolarpower.com/go/callsun200W with coupon code NICK for 6% off
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
I review the Callsun 200W TOPCon N-Type bifacial solar panel and compare it to two 100W panels in series. Is it worth the price at 78 cents per watt?
I cover real-world output on a warmed-up panel, bifacial gain, and shade testing — including how bypass diodes work and why panel orientation matters more than most people think.
Alternative: cleversolarpower.com/go/NT00Alternative
NT00 base is the same as RT36
Copper Busbar: amzn.to/4bQHm8M
Cables I'm Using: cleversolarpower.com/go/siliconecables
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
Sometimes CHINT doesn't ship to the US so I had to find alternatives (which are more expensive).
In this video I show you how to build and size a DIY fuse busbar for your off-grid solar system and how it compares to the Victron Lynx distributor with Class-T fusing.
I walk you through how to size a copper busbar using NEC Table 310.16, which temperature column to use and why it matters, and why the current limit comes from your terminals not the bar itself. I also cover grounding requirements for all metal components and how I added a transparent plastic safety cover using standoffs and a threaded rod mounted into the backboard.
At the end I do a full price comparison between the DIY build and the Victron Lynx setup — $82 versus $630. I also show the complete system installed in my garage. If you want a dedicated video on ESS systems like this one, let me know in the comments.
The busbar is pure copper. For marine or wet environments, go with tinned copper instead.
Their website: cleversolarpower.com/go/humsienk12v100ah coupon code: 'NICK' for 5% off
EU: cleversolarpower.com/go/EUhumsienk12v100ah coupon code: 'NICK' for 5% off
Aliexpress shipped from US: cleversolarpower.com/go/aliexpressUS
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this review, I test the Humsienk 12V 100Ah battery under high current and with a thermal camera to see how it really performs. The price is very good, but the results show that you need to respect the real current limits. I also go through the bluetooth app, the internal build quality, the balancing setup, and a few things I think should be improved.
Review policy: cleversolarpower.com/batteryreview
Better alternative: amzn.to/4riQyHI
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I test an Eco-Worthy 12V 100Ah LiFePO₄ battery to see if it’s a solid mid-range option or not. I start with the basics: unboxing, a 0.2C capacity test, and a charge/discharge efficiency check. Right away the numbers didn’t look great, and the battery also kept hitting overvoltage protection before it could reach a normal full charge voltage, which pointed to a balancing problem.
After the normal tests, I try to use the Bluetooth app to check individual cell voltages, but the battery won’t connect at all. At that point the only way forward is opening the case to measure what’s going on inside. I find a large cell voltage spread near the top and a very low passive balancing current, which explains why the pack can’t recover from imbalance in any reasonable amount of time.
To quantify the imbalance, I compare the state of charge of the highest and lowest cell group using capacity testers and show how many amp-hours they’re apart, then I calculate how long the balancer would need to correct it. In the end I explain why I can’t recommend this unit as-tested: not enough usable capacity out of the box, repeated charge cutoff from imbalance, and a battery management system that isn’t doing enough to fix it.
Important note: after recording, Eco-Worthy told me the battery I received was their older version and that the newer version was not available from the EU warehouse at the time. They also confirmed this older version does not have Bluetooth, even though I requested the Bluetooth model and the listings can look identical to buyers. Because this version is still being shipped from warehouse stock, I’m publishing the results as they are. If I receive the latest version, I’ll run the same tests and post the results as well.
Review policy: cleversolarpower.com/batteryreview
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
If I only showed you a capacity test, you’d probably think both of these batteries are fine. I tested the Vatrer and Dyness batteries side by side for a week, and the real difference only showed up once I introduced a small cell imbalance. One pack can recover from drift fast enough to behave normally over time, while the other one struggles.
In this video I’ll walk you through how I checked cell matching, why cells drift over time even when the matching looks good, and what passive balancing is actually doing inside the BMS. I’ll explain why balance start voltage and balancing current matter in a real solar charging setup, then I’ll run a simple 0.5Ah imbalance test to see how quickly each battery can “catch up.”
I’ll also show you how to spot imbalance symptoms without Bluetooth by looking at your charge curve, and why a hard cutoff near the top can create short voltage spikes that aren’t ideal in a system. If you’ve ever had a battery that won’t finish charging or seems to stop early near full, this will make the whole thing click.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I answer a question I get all the time: when should you increase your battery voltage from 12V to 24V or 48V? The simplest rule I can give you is this: once your system starts pulling more than about 200 amps on the DC side, you’re entering the zone where builds get expensive and inefficient.
I’ll walk through a real example using a 3000W inverter on a 12V battery. The DC current ends up around 278A, and after applying a safety factor you’re suddenly sizing for a 350A fuse and very large cable like 4/0 (120 mm²). The copper gets bulky and expensive, the hardware gets bigger, and losses through heat start stacking up.
Then I show the same inverter power on 24V so you can see why increasing voltage usually fixes the problem immediately: current halves, fuse size drops, cable size becomes manageable, and the system becomes cheaper and more efficient. I also explain why this isn’t just about cable cost — high current increases heat loss because power loss rises with I²R, and those losses happen not only in the wire but in every lug, fuse, breaker, busbar, and disconnect in the system.
Finally, I cover the practical side: why higher voltage can make charge controllers cheaper for the same solar power, why common DIY components often top out at 250A, and when higher voltage isn’t automatically the best choice, especially in vans and RVs where alternator charging and solar array voltage constraints can make 24V the sweet spot.
If you’re planning an off-grid build and you want it reliable, affordable, and clean, use the 200A rule as a sanity check. Check the recommended inverter-size table in the video and choose the voltage that keeps your DC current under control.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
48V 100Ah Battery: cleversolarpower.com/go/wattcycle48v100ah or amzn.to/4aeXjVQ
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I’m comparing two popular ways to build a roughly 15–16 kWh 48V LiFePO₄ bank: a big DIY battery box kit and three separate 51.2V 100Ah rack-style often called golf cart batteries in parallel. DIY boxes look like the obvious winner on price, but once you factor in the real-world install parts and the day-to-day practical differences, the answer isn’t always as simple as people think.
First I break down the raw capacity numbers and show the math for total kWh in each setup. Then I go through the real costs, including the add-ons you actually need when you parallel batteries, like fusing and battery cables. I also calculate the cost per kWh for each option so you can see exactly what you’re paying for usable storage, not just the price of the battery.
After the numbers, I talk about the things that matter in the real world: how easy each system is to install, how modular it is if you want to start small and add capacity later, what happens if a battery shuts down, and the risks and responsibilities that come with DIY assembly at 50+ volts DC. By the end you’ll know which route makes the most sense depending on whether you prioritize the lowest possible $/kWh, simplicity, serviceability, or long-term peace of mind.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I’m going to show you how to ground solar panels the right way, and why it matters more than most people think. A lot of people hear the word “grounding” and immediately think lightning. Lightning is part of the bigger picture, but the most common safety issue is much simpler: if a fault happens and the metal frames or racking become energized, you can get shocked while working on a roof and that shock can make you lose your balance and fall.
I’ll walk you through the difference between bonding and grounding/earthing, because those two terms get mixed up all the time, even by me. Then I’ll show you what actually needs to be bonded on a typical solar array so all the metal stays at the same potential. We’ll also talk about why “floating” metal can sometimes show stray or induced voltage when you measure it, and why that’s still something you want to take seriously on a roof. After that, I’ll explain whether you need a separate ground rod near the panels (and why a “separate earth” can cause problems if it isn’t bonded back properly). Finally, I’ll cover the basics of grounding wire size for Europe versus the U.S., what a standard ground rod looks like in the U.S., when you add a second rod, and the typical spacing.
Quick safety note: electrical rules vary by country and even by state, so always follow your local code and the instructions from your racking and equipment manufacturers.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
Combiner box I recommend: amzn.to/4b8lG8s
I made a video about series vs parallel wiring 4 years ago, but I've changed my mind on a few things. In this updated guide, I'll show you when to use series, when to use parallel, and most importantly—the actual cost difference between different wiring methods.
What you'll learn:
- Series vs parallel basics (voltage vs current)
- Why I default to series wiring for most installations
- How hybrid inverter voltage limits (145V vs 500V) affect your design
- The truth about shading and bypass diodes
- Real cost comparison: branch connectors vs combiner box vs dual MPPTs
- When parallel wiring actually makes sense
- How to properly fuse parallel strings (and why it matters)
Cost breakdown comparison:
Option 1: MC4 branch connectors (not recommended) - $234
Option 2: Proper combiner box setup - $250
Option 3: Two MPPTs for redundancy - $277
The combiner box only costs $16 more than the risky branch connector setup, and it's way safer. I'll show you exactly why.
Key takeaway: Start with series wiring, and only add parallel or multiple charge controllers when you have a clear reason to do so.
Useful links:
How to calculate series string length: youtu.be/5xKyWYo9zJk
Video on fusing parallel solar panels: youtu.be/aXPbbhd9R_k
Video on shading: youtu.be/hhTgGrEDCaM
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I explain the three most practical ways to wire LiFePO₄ batteries in parallel, and how to choose the setup that fits your budget and system size. You’ll see a simple terminal-fuse (MRBF) layout, a single fused busbar setup using MEGA fuses, and a “dual busbar” / battery-combiner approach similar to the Victron Lynx style for larger banks.
I also cover the safety rules that matter—why every parallel battery must be fused, where to place a main DC disconnect, and how to think about current sharing without overcomplicating cable length matching. Finally, I compare the cost of each wiring method for a real example system so you can see what’s cheapest and what scales best as you add more batteries.
How to size your main battery bank fuse: youtu.be/32yXMsXmZ8A
Fuse theory: youtu.be/fPOFAkIHLRE
Different capacity batteries in parallel: youtu.be/dmVao8gtLFQ
Fuse types: youtu.be/OmYYdlU5qdA
Link to the diagram and components used: cleversolarpower.com/campervan-3000w-inverter-24v-battery
Components used:
24V 3000VA multiplus 2: amzn.to/49mrFE4
24V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery: amzn.to/4pu3jhO
Victron orion TR-Smart 12/24 15A: amzn.to/3L5zkyF
MPPT Charge Controller: amzn.to/3LyYO7C
200W Solar Panels: amzn.to/3NlFMlD
Orion Tr 24/12 20A: amzn.to/49a1r90
MCCB: amzn.to/49dPAa1
MEGA Fuse Busbar: amzn.to/4aJGHWN
Negative busbar: amzn.to/45ux0Ig
MEGA Fuses amzn.to/4quMWD3
MIDI Fuses: amzn.to/49eY14Y
MRBF Terminal: amzn.to/4jsgpdU
MRBF Fuses: amzn.to/4jvjj1m
12V DC Fusebox: amzn.to/4smMs2W
Welding cable: amzn.to/4aPy50W
THHN wire: amzn.to/4aUQFot
grounding wire: amzn.to/49teqSb
Shunt BMV 712: amzn.to/4jt1Jet
PV Disconnect switch: amzn.to/4aPkTco
alternatively:
24V 3000W Giandel inverter amzn.to/4jyWwlw
24V 30A Battery charger amzn.to/4jvHX29
In this video I walk through a complete 24-volt RV electrical system built around a 3000W (3000VA) inverter/charger. The goal is to show a practical layout that can charge from three sources—solar on the roof, the alternator while driving through a DC-DC charger, and shore power when you plug in at a campground. I explain how each charging source connects into the system and why 24V is a good middle ground for an RV compared to 12V and 48V.
For the solar side, I use three 200W panels and show how to check panel voltage against the charge controller’s maximum input, including a cold-weather safety factor so you don’t accidentally exceed the MPPT rating. I also show how to estimate realistic charging current into a 24V battery bank and how that influences charge controller sizing. From there, I cover the purpose of a PV disconnect and when you do—or don’t—need string fuses.
For alternator charging, I explain why a DC-DC charger is used instead of connecting lithium batteries directly to the alternator, and how a 12V starting system can charge a 24V house bank safely. On the shore power side, I explain what an inverter/charger does, roughly how much charging power a 70A charger provides at 24V, and how the same unit can power AC loads from shore power when you’re plugged in. I also mention how generator charging fits in through a transfer switch.
In the battery section, I show a simple 24V battery bank using two 24V 100Ah batteries in parallel for about 5kWh of storage, and I explain the wiring approach using MRBF fuses at each battery, a main DC breaker as the primary disconnect, and a busbar to keep connections safe and organized. I also cover why some inverter specs are listed in VA instead of watts, what that means in practice, and what a 3000W-class inverter can realistically run in an RV.
Because most RV accessories are still 12V, I include a 24V-to-12V converter feeding a dedicated 12V fuse box for lights, pumps, fans, and other 12V loads. I then go through the wire and fuse sizing step by step for the major circuits: PV wiring, MPPT output wiring, inverter cables and main fuse, individual battery cables and fuses, DC-DC charger input/output wiring, and the 24V-to-12V converter wiring. The focus is on how to calculate currents, apply safety margins, and pick standard fuse sizes and wire gauges.
Finally, I show how to place a GFCI breaker on the inverter’s output, how to size it for 120V versus 230V setups, and how grounding is handled in a mobile system. I explain the difference between AC grounding and DC grounding, where grounds should land, and why adding extra neutral-to-ground bonds in the wrong place can cause nuisance tripping.
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I explain how my DC-DC charger wire and fuse calculator works, and why I built it in the first place. I kept getting the same questions about wire gauge, fuse size, voltage drop, and “will my battery still charge to 100%?”—so this calculator puts the math in one place and makes the decision process simple.
You’ll see the calculator on screen and I’ll walk through exactly what each input means, what the calculator is calculating in the background, and how to interpret the results. The goal is to help you size wiring that’s safe, avoids overheating, and doesn’t rely on guesswork.
Then I go through two real examples step-by-step: a 12V to 12V 30A DC-DC charger setup, and a 12V to 24V 15A DC-DC charger setup. I explain how the wire run length affects voltage drop, why the recommended wire size changes with distance, and how the fuse selection ties back to protecting the cable.
I also address a common worry with long wire runs: “If I lose voltage in the cable, won’t the battery never reach the target charging voltage?” I explain why that’s not how charging works in practice—voltage drop is highest at full current, but as the battery fills up the current naturally tapers down, the voltage drop becomes much smaller, and the battery can still reach full charge.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I explain why it’s often completely fine, and even smart to connect more solar panels to your charge controller or string inverter than the spec sheet suggests. This is called overpaneling. I’ll show you how this is used in grid-tied systems, like in Belgium where tax is based on string inverter size, and how you can apply the same idea in off-grid systems with an MPPT or hybrid inverter to get more energy without buying oversized electronics.
You’ll learn the two hard limits you must always respect: maximum PV input voltage and maximum PV input current. I walk through the simple Voc × 1.25 rule for deciding how many panels you can put in series, and how to use Isc with a safety factor to size the parallel side correctly. Once those are under control, you’ll see why a bit of extra panel wattage does not “blow up” your controller. It causes harmless clipping on the best days.
I also go through a practical example with a Victron SmartSolar 100/30 and six Eco-Worthy 100 W panels in a 3S2P configuration, so you can see exactly what happens on the PV side versus the battery side. You’ll see how much power the array can realistically produce, how much the MPPT will actually deliver to the battery, and why this is classic, safe overpaneling.
Finally, I cover when overpaneling stops making sense: RVs and boats with limited roof space, low-voltage MPPTs that force you into lots of parallel strings, the need for combiner boxes once you exceed MC4 connector ratings, and local regulations that may limit the panel-to-inverter ratio on grid-tied systems.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
Link to the voltage drop calculator: calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html
In this video I correct a mistake I made in a previous solar wiring video and in my book. I walk you through the proper way to size the PV cable between your solar panels and the MPPT charge controller, focusing on the difference between using Isc × 1.56 and Isc × 1.25. You’ll see how this impacts the voltage drop calculation, the final PV wire size, and how much you actually spend on copper in your off grid solar system.
I use a real example with two 200W solar panels in series to show you step by step how to work out the string voltage, the cable ampacity and the acceptable voltage drop. We compare the old method, where I used Isc × 1.56 for everything, with the corrected method, where we still use Isc × 1.56 for ampacity but only Isc × 1.25 for the solar voltage drop calculation. This simple change can let you go from 8 AWG to 10 AWG on the PV run, while staying completely safe and within the current ratings of the cable.
I’ll also talk about why the PV-to-MPPT cable is usually the longest and most critical run in an off grid solar setup, why high DC voltage can be dangerous if you wire panels in series, and a simple safety sequence to follow when connecting your solar panels, PV disconnect and battery. If you’re interested in topics like PV cable sizing, solar wire size, MPPT charge controller wiring, off grid solar design and voltage drop calculation, this video will help you clean up your method and save some money on your next installation.
Link to the diagram: cleversolarpower.com/24v-2000w-inverter-solar-diagram
Parts Used: 24V 100Ah Battery: amzn.to/3KgR9dm
100/30 MPPT Charge Controller: amzn.to/4ioFKF1
400W Solar panel: amzn.to/3MpdYw7
24V 2000W Inverter: amzn.to/3LZkQ3j
125A Molded DC Circuit Breaker: amzn.to/48383W5
50A MRBF Fuse: amzn.to/4ivvuuU
MRBF Terminal:amzn.to/3LTOcjE
Victron MEGA fuse busbar: amzn.to/48BjrbS
Negative busbar: amzn.to/48ebJTK
MEGA Fuses: amzn.to/4pBpwek
PV Cable: amzn.to/4ikfhs9
DC Disconnect Switch: amzn.to/4ilNasF
Welding cable: amzn.to/48nOg2x
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
📖 My Best-Selling book: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
PV Watts: pvwatts.nrel.gov
Tilt angle calculator: cleversolarpower.com/solar-panel-tilt-angle-calculator-summer-winter
You’ll learn a fast, repeatable method to size an off-grid solar system for a van, cabin, or backup setup. I’ll show you how to estimate daily energy use (including a fridge with a sensible duty cycle), turn your chosen days of autonomy into a clear energy target, pick the right system voltage so the inverter current stays reasonable, and convert that target into a practical battery capacity. We’ll also cover when to use a 24 to 12V converter for 12V DC loads on a 24V system.
You’ll see how to size the solar array to recharge the battery in a single good-sun day using PVWatts, translate that into a panel count, and select an MPPT. I’ll walk through checking controller voltage limits with a cold-weather Voc margin, choosing wire gauges to keep voltage drop under control on longer runs, and laying out a simple, reliable wiring path from panels to AC.
Finally, I’ll teach the protection strategy that keeps systems safe and serviceable: MRBF fuses on each battery, a main DC breaker, a PV disconnect.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
I visited the Gobelpower factory in Dongguan China. I recently tested a DIY Gobelpower 16kWh battery. I was still in touch with them while I was visiting an expo in Shanghai. They invited me to come over and take a look at their factory. So I said yes and they agreed I recorded their Factory. Some of the footage has been removed, so I didn't show how the factory looks completely because they wanted some parts to be kept a secret, which is to be expected.
4x 12V 100Ah LiFePO₄ battery: amzn.to/4oSLQj3
(Pre-order) Wattcycle server rack battery: cleversolarpower.com/go/wattserver
48V 100Ah Golf Cart Battery: amzn.to/43b0VEp
Balancer: amzn.to/4olIHsl
4 AWG / 25 mm² with lugs: cleversolarpower.com/go/aliexpress200
MRBF terminal fuse: amzn.to/3Je78Zr
Which is actually cheaper for a 48-volt system: four separate 12V 100Ah batteries wired in series, a 48V 100Ah server-rack battery, or a 48V 100Ah gold cart battery? In this video I break down the real costs most people ignore—balancers, jumpers, breakers/fuses, and the extra time it takes to make a four-battery stack behave. I’ll show you why the “cheap” option isn’t so cheap once you include the hidden cost, and why a simple 48V golf cart battery with an MRBF fuse on the post is usually the best value for a reliable 5 kWh bank.
I start with the four-by-12V series build everyone recommends, add the external balancer(s), size the interconnects to the BMS limit and inverter surge, and total up the parts. Then I compare that to a 48V rack battery (breaker and comms included) and finally to a standard 48V 100Ah battery in a plastic case—no communication, just one battery with one BMS that works. If you already own a couple of 12V batteries and you’re upgrading, I also explain when adding one or two more can make short-term financial sense, and what the trade-offs are long-term.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
MEGA Fuses: amzn.to/3LhroKf
Class-T Fuse: amzn.to/47iL9d5
MRBF Fuse: amzn.to/3Je78Zr
ANL Fuse: amzn.to/49tf8jG
NH00 Fuse: amzn.to/4qx0uyd
Aliexpress 200°C cables: cleversolarpower.com/go/aliexpress200
Windynation 105°C cables: amzn.to/3YgWzcf
Most people size their main battery fuse completely wrong. You’ll hear advice like “200Ah battery needs a 200A fuse,” or “match the fuse to the battery BMS.” That’s dangerous. In this video I’ll show you the correct way to size your battery fuse so you don’t melt a cable or burn your system down.
We’re going to walk through a simple step-by-step method to choose the correct fuse size. First we figure out how much current your system can actually pull from the battery. Usually that’s the inverter, not the amp-hour rating of the battery. Then we add a safety margin, pick the next fuse size up, and size the cable so it can safely carry that fuse without overheating. I’ll do an example with a 12V LiFePO₄ battery and a 2000W inverter so you can see the math and the final fuse value.
After that, we’ll talk about something almost nobody mentions: voltage rating and interrupt rating. A fuse that’s fine on a 12V or 24V system can be completely unsafe on a 48V lithium bank, because a “48V” battery actually charges up to around 58V. I’ll show you which common fuse styles (ANL, MEGA, MRBF, Class T, etc.) are safe for 12/24V and which ones you should be using for serious 48V systems. We’ll also talk about interrupt rating: how much short-circuit current the fuse can actually stop in a dead short. This is critical with lithium because a short can easily dump thousands of amps instantly.
We’ll also look at breakers. Yes, you can use a breaker instead of a fuse in some systems, but it has to be DC rated for the correct voltage and it has to be able to interrupt that fault current. I’ll show you what’s acceptable, what’s just marketing, and what I would never install on a 48V battery bank.
I’ll give you a reference chart for fuse sizing based on inverter size at 12V, 24V, and 48V. I also give you a chart where i recommend the fuse sizes per inverter at different voltages.
I asked the company if I could come over and make a video on how solar panels are made and they approved. So after a tour in the factory where they explained everything to me I took my camera and recorded the whole process.
This gives a unique look into how solar panels are manufactured from start to finish. something I wanted to see for a long time.
In this video, I’m reviewing the GobelPower GP-SR1-Kit, a DIY battery box that you have to assemble yourself. This unit comes with 16x 314 Ah Cornex cells and a JK 200 A BMS featuring a 2 A active balancing current.
Unfortunately, the battery didn’t include a proper assembly manual, which made it impossible to put everything together the right way. There are two manuals on the website: one for the JK BMS and one for the PACE BMS. But neither matches the components I received. The JK manual, for example, shows wires as busbars, while the kit came with flexible orange busbars. It also shows a large breaker, but mine came with a smaller one. On top of that, the manuals only list what’s inside the box — not how to assemble it step by step.
Even though I received this kit for free, I give my honest opinion as if I bought it myself. And at this point, I can’t recommend this battery because of the lack of proper documentation and the confusing mismatch between the manuals and the actual parts.
Review policy: cleversolarpower.com/batteryreview
Basic version: amzn.to/3KKFXpg
Bluetooth version: amzn.to/4qiYCZV
EU: amzn.to/4h51khk
In this video I'm reviewing the Dyness 12V 100Ah lithium battery. I perform some tests and open it up to see what's inside. Will this battery pass my testing? And how does the company respond to my questions?
Victron Smartshunt: amzn.to/3IOMizo (lowered price)
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I review the Victron BMV-712 Smart battery monitor and show you how it works in a real off-grid solar setup. I’ll walk you through the installation, explain the key features like Bluetooth connectivity, automatic synchronization, and programmable relay functions, and show you how to get the most accurate state-of-charge readings for both lithium and lead-acid batteries.
I also compare the BMV-712 to the Victron SmartShunt, the Lynx Shunt, and other options so you know exactly which one is the best fit for your system. Should you pay extra for the display, or stick with the cheaper SmartShunt that relies only on the app? I’ll give you my thoughts after testing both.
Whether you’re building a van, RV, cabin, or full off-grid home, a reliable battery monitor is essential for protecting your batteries and knowing how much power you really have left. By the end of this video, you’ll know if the Victron BMV-712 is worth it, or if you should save some money and choose one of the alternatives.
Lin to the Battery EU: amzn.to/46Hpyt7
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
I was interested in reviewing this battery, so i asked Vatrer to send me one for review.
In this video I review the Vatrer 12V 100Ah LiFePO₄ battery with Bluetooth monitoring and a built-in heating function. I’ll show you how it performs in real-world tests, including a full capacity check, high current load testing, over-voltage protection, and parallel operation with another battery. I also open it up to examine the build quality, the BMS, the cells, and the heating system to see how well it’s put together. Along the way I’ll demonstrate the Bluetooth app, check how the self-heating function works in freezing conditions, and even make adjustments to the BMS settings to improve safety. If you’re considering this battery for your RV, camper van, boat, or off-grid system, this review will give you a clear picture of the pros and cons so you can decide if it’s the right fit for your setup.
Review policy: cleversolarpower.com/batteryreview
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I review the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 charge controller and put it through a series of real-world tests. You’ll see how much higher your panel voltage needs to be compared to your battery before charging starts, how quickly the MPPT locks onto the maximum power point, and how it reacts when a cloud passes over. I’ll also explain what overpaneling really means, how much solar you can safely connect, and why you need to think about cold weather when calculating Voc.
We’ll also cover the practical side of building your system, like what wire and fuse sizes to use, why you should keep the controller close to your battery or busbar, and how to avoid wasting money on cables. I’ll show you around the unit itself, point out useful features such as the passive cooling and Bluetooth, and walk you through the VictronConnect app so you can see what setup and monitoring looks like in practice.
Victron charge controllers used to be considered expensive, but these days they are very competitive with other brands. In my opinion the 100/30 is one of the best controllers for the money. It’s reliable, solidly built, easy to use, and the app makes it simple to configure and monitor your system.
I bought these controllers with my own money. This video is not sponsored.
2x 195W Solar Panels: amzn.to/4m38T8Z
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video, I review and test the Pecron E1500 LFP power station, an all-in-one unit with a 1536Wh lithium battery, a 2000W inverter, an MPPT solar charger, and a built-in UPS function. Instead of going over marketing specs, I put it through real-world testing to see how it actually performs.
I look at the idle power consumption, surge capacity with appliances like a fridge, kettle, and microwave, and the UPS switchover speed during a power outage. I also measure how long it can realistically run household appliances such as fridges and TVs, and I test its charging performance on both AC and solar. Noise levels and sine wave quality are also put to the test, because these things matter in everyday use.
Along the way, I explain where a power station like this really shines — for example as backup power for fridges, sump pumps, CPAP machines, Wi-Fi routers, or in areas with load shedding — and where it doesn’t, like in RVs or vans where vibrations could shorten its lifespan.
Lugs on Aliexpress: cleversolarpower.com/go/alilugs
$40 Hydraulic crimper: amzn.to/46lQVtK
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I show you why cheap cable lugs can cause serious problems in your solar power system, and how to spot the good ones. Most failures don’t happen at the panels or the inverter — they happen at the cable connections. And the quality of your lug makes all the difference.
I’ll compare cheap lugs to proper ones side by side. We’ll look at the weight, the wall thickness, and why the cheap ones often slip straight off the cable even when you crimp them with the correct die. I’ll also show what happens when people try to “fix” the problem by crimping with a smaller die, and why that actually makes the connection worse.
You’ll see the inside of a proper crimp, where the copper strands are compressed into a cold weld. This creates a gas-tight seal that keeps air and moisture out, preventing corrosion. In contrast, cheap lugs leave gaps that allow oxidation to build up over time. I’ll also demonstrate how the tin coating is much thinner on cheap lugs, making them corrode faster.
Finally, I’ll share how you can quickly spot quality lugs before you buy them, what they should cost, and how to crimp them properly with a hydraulic crimper. A good connection doesn’t cost much more, but it makes your whole solar system safer and more reliable.
If you want to build a system that lasts, make sure you’re not cutting corners on the small parts that matter the most.
130W Flexible Solar Panel: amzn.to/3JyiOpE (price increased)
📖 My Best-Selling book: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
In this video I put a flexible 100-watt solar panel head-to-head against a rigid 100-watt panel to see which one really performs better on an RV roof. Most people choose flexible panels because they’re easy to install — you just glue them down without drilling holes or mounting brackets. But do they actually make as much power as a rigid panel, and how long do they last?
To keep things fair, I ran multiple tests. First, I compared both panels flat on a simulated RV roof. After one hour, the rigid panel produced 61 Wh, while the flexible panel only managed 48.4 Wh — almost 21% less. Then I tested them freestanding with airflow underneath, where the rigid panel reached 69.5 Wh and the flexible panel came in at 58.6 Wh, still about 16% lower. I also measured panel temperatures and explained why heat is such a big problem for flexible panels.
The results make it clear: rigid panels stay cooler, they perform better, and they last much longer before degrading. Flexible panels, on the other hand, tend to run hot and usually only last a few years before the plastic surface turns milky and blocks light. That said, they can still be useful. If you want a quick, lightweight installation without mounting brackets, or if you want a portable panel you can set in the sun while your RV stays cool in the shade, flexible panels can be a good option.
Link to the 12V version: amzn.to/3Jq9GmP
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
cleversolarpower.com/go-orion-manual
In this video I’m installing a Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/24-15A DC to DC charger in my friend’s van. The van has a 12 volt starter battery and a 24 volt DIY lithium house battery that I installed a few years ago, so we’re using the non-isolated 12/24 version. I’ll explain why a DC to DC charger is needed when charging lithium from an alternator, how it protects your alternator from overload, and why I chose the non-isolated model for this setup.
You’ll see a walkaround of the unit, how the input and output terminals are connected, and how the small remote port can be wired to a simple on/off switch. I also talk about cable length, fuse sizing, and why I prefer calculating fuse and wire sizes myself rather than relying only on Victron’s generic tables. We go through the numbers together and I explain how is size my wires and fuses.
After wiring everything up, I connect through the VictronConnect app to set the charger to LiFePO₄ mode and adjust the input voltage lockout so the starter battery is never drained when the engine is off. I’ll show you how the engine shutdown detection works, how the charger responds when the alternator stops, and what the app can and can’t do in terms of monitoring.
Finally I demonstrate the charger in action on the bench and then give you an overview of the completed installation in the van, with the charger, fuses, and cabling laid out.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
PWM: amzn.to/3Ht7ryE
MPPT: amzn.to/3V3CHHu
Ever wonder why sometimes a PWM charge controller seems almost as efficient as an MPPT?
In this video, I put them to the test and found something surprising — the difference was much smaller than expected.
The reason? Solar panel temperature.
When panels get hot, their voltage drops, bringing them closer to the battery’s voltage. This makes a PWM appear more efficient because there’s less “extra voltage” for an MPPT to convert into amps.
Here’s what I tested:
- Cool panel (35°C) → PWM efficiency: 74%
- Hot panel (55°C) → PWM efficiency: 85%
An MPPT still wins in all cases, but the gap shrinks in hot conditions.
Whether you’re building an off-grid solar system or just curious about solar charging performance, this test will help you understand when a PWM can hold its own — and when an MPPT will pull ahead by a big margin.
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
📖 My Best-Selling book on Amazon: cleversolarpower.com/off-grid-solar-power-simplified
🎁 Free Diagrams: cleversolarpower.com
Are you still using a fuse and DC disconnect as your main battery shutoff in your solar power system? In this video, I show you a better alternative: a heavy-duty DC circuit breaker that can replace both components, saving you time, money, and reducing failure points. I’ll walk you through exactly how it compares to a Class-T fuse, NH00 fuse, and traditional DC disconnect setups.
This breaker is rated at 500VDC and has a short circuit interrupt rating of 20,000 amps, making it ideal for off-grid solar systems running 12V, 24V, or 48V battery banks—even up to 2,000Ah. I explain why short circuit current matters, especially when using LiFePO4 batteries, and why cheap Amazon breakers with no safety certifications can be dangerous. I also cover the specs you need to look out for and run a real-world test to see when the breaker actually trips under a 200A load.
By the end of this video, you'll know if this DC breaker is a good fit for your solar battery bank, how it stacks up against traditional fuse setups, and how to avoid common wiring mistakes that could lead to system failure. If you’re building or upgrading an off-grid solar setup, this is one upgrade worth considering.
In this short video i warn about using cheap no-brand breakers like the one shown. While they might trip, i do not trust them because they don't have any published safety data and trip curves. Instead use the one i recommend in the video.
In this short video i compare the cost of using a mega fuse and a dc disconnect switch to a battery breaker. This breaker is equally as good as a class-t fuse or NH fuse, and it is switchable. This DC breaker can be used as the main battery disconnect switch.


