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Dandruff on cats is nothing unusual. Cat dandruff is usually a result of skin dryness. When the dry skin begins to fall off, we see that as small white flakes in a cat’s fur. Treating dandruff on cats is usually relatively simply, but you want to make sure there is no underlying health condition that could be causing it. If you notice irritation, redness or other symptoms in addition to dandruff, check in with your veterinarian.
Brush Your Cat
Start by gently going through your cat’s coat with a soft-bristled brush to remove any loose flakes. You want to be as delicate as possible so as not to irritate your cat’s dry skin. While you brush, inspect their skin for any red areas that look especially irritated. If you notice any large flakes that are coming off in sheets, it’s best to pay a visit to your vet to rule out any serious health issues behind their skin irritation.
Use a Humidifier
Running a humidifier is another way to help with cat dandruff. The humidifier will help to moisturize the air of your home, which is often dried out by the heating and cooling of modern air conditioners. The humidifier can also help with the allergies that are contributing to your cat’s dander.
Talk to Your Vet About Diet and Supplements
A balanced diet is the best way to lay a solid foundation for your kitty’s overall health and happiness. Consult with your vet to customize your cat’s diet to suit their specific needs. Often the results of even a minor tweak of their daily diet can have big benefits. It’s also advisable to ask your vet about incorporating supplements into your cat’s diet that could treat their dry skin. Things like Omega-3 fatty acids are excellent ways to help cats with dandruff.
1. Gather Your Supplies
To measure your dog for their boot size, you’ll need two sheets of paper, a marker, a ruler, and a few dog treats to keep them happy during the process.
2. Measure Your Dog’s Paws
Lay a sheet of paper down on the floor and have your dog step on it. You’ll be taking separate measurements of their front and rear paws, so start with the front and label your paper, so you know which is which when it’s time to shop for canine booties. Trace an outline of their paw onto the paper, moving their fur out of the way as you go around their paw. If you need to, you can always try to lift your dog’s opposite paw to anchor the one you’re tracing. Once you get a close outline of one of their front paws, do the same with the back. Don’t forget to label your second outline.
3. Find Your Dog’s Boot Size
Use your ruler to measure the widest part of your outlines in inches and record the result. Compare your measurement with the size chart to find the corresponding size with the closest match. This will be your dog’s shoe size. If the measurement indicates that they are between sizes, we recommend rounding down. It’s preferable to have a slightly more snug fit than one that’s too loose.
4. Put the Boots On Properly
When the dog boots arrive, open up the top and slide your pup’s paw all the way in until it touches the bottom toe of the boot. Look for a snug fit, especially at the sides of the boot. If the sides seem loose, you may want to go down a size. Also, if your dog has dewclaws, remember to hold their dewclaw down as you slide the boot on to prevent it from snagging. If your dog has furry paws, you may need to cinch the fasteners a little tighter than you think to compensate. Try to get a snug fit but not so tight your dog will be uncomfortable.
5. Train Your Dog
Some dogs are fine with footwear right away, but most are going to need some time to get accustomed to the new sensation of wearing paw protection. Don’t panic if they start trying to shake the boots off once you’ve fastened them or if they start walking in a strange and different way. They should get familiar with wearing the boots with time and practice. If your dog is struggling, you can try to go a little slower with the process of getting them acclimated to the boots. Put the boots on for short periods of time, inside the house. You can also leave the boots out somewhere your dog can access them. This provides them with an opportunity to explore the boots and get familiar with them at their own pace. Handle the boots while your dog is nearby so they can hear the fasteners being fastened and undone. Don’t try forcing your dog to wear them before they’re ready. Allow your dog to set the pace and before long they’ll be joining you on all your outdoor adventures, proudly rocking their new kicks.
Brush Your Dog
Giving your dog a little gentle grooming with a soft bristled brush is an easy way to get the flakes out of their fur. Be sure to take your time and use an especially light touch as you brush through their coat. You want to avoid causing their sensitive skin to have an adverse reaction. While you brush, inspect their skin for any signs of irritation. If you notice any large flakes that are coming off in sheets, you’ll want to visit your vet to rule out any serious skin conditions.
Bath Your Dog
A bath can be another great remedy for dry skin on a dog. Be sure to use a dandruff dog shampoo that’s specifically designed to moisturize their skin and reduce dandruff and itching. Look for a shampoo with oatmeal and ceramides and finish with a conditioner or a cream rinse.
Use a Humidifier
A humidifier can help moisturize the air of your home, which is often dried out by the seasonal shifts in humidity and the heating and cooling of modern air conditioners. The humidifier will also help combat allergies, which are likely contributing to your dog’s dander.
Talk to Your Vet About Diet and Supplements
Discuss your dog’s regular diet with their vet and see if there’s room for improvements that might help with their dry skin. It may be possible to incorporate supplements, such as Omega-3 fatty acids, that’ll help treat their dry skin and prevent future dog dandruff.
1. Confirm it’s a Tick
The first step in removing a tick from your cat is to positively identify that it is actually a tick. Because of their very small size, it can be hard to tell whether you’re looking at a skin tag or tick. What do cat ticks look like? Start by looking for a body that’s freely moving with its head submerged in the skin. If the tick hasn’t been feeding for very long, it’ll still be very small. If the tick has been in there for a while it may already look engorged from feeding.
2. Gather Your Supplies
Once you’ve confirmed you have a tick on a cat scenario on your hands, you’ll need:
• a tick remover for cats
• feline-friendly disinfectant
• a cotton swab
• a jar with a tight lid for containing the tick safely after removal
• two pairs of latex gloves
It’s also highly recommended to enlist a friend with plenty of cat treats to distract your cat and hold them still during the removal process. Lastly, make sure you have a pair of latex gloves for each of you.
3. Hold Your Cat Still
Here’s where your friend comes in. Try to stick to your respective tasks to work quickly and minimize your cat’s discomfort. Their job is going to be keeping your pet-patient still and subdued with treats while you remove the tick from your cat.
4. Remove the Tick
Grasp the tick with your tick removal tool, getting as close to your cat’s skin as possible without pinching them. Pull away slowly so you don’t pull off the tick’s body and leave the head inside, which is dangerous and heightens the risk of infection. Try to remove the entire tick in one piece. Ideally, they’ll release their mouthparts to make it easier to do.
5. Clean the Area
Now the tick is out, take a close look at the skin to make sure there are no remaining parts of it in the skin. Take your cotton ball and apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol then wipe the affected area carefully. The hard part of treating tick bites on cats is over. Now you just need to clean and sanitize.
6. Contain the Tick
Put the tick into the jar and add some of the isopropyl alcohol to make sure it’s no longer capable of spreading infection.
7. Monitor Your Cat
Tick diseases in cats can happen so you’ll want to keep a close eye on your kitty over the next few weeks and especially in the following day or two. Make sure the tick bite is healing properly and if you notice any redness, swelling or discharge, take your cat to the vet.
It’s also a good idea to investigate cat tick prevention. There’s a range of options, from collars to oral medicine and your vet can help you select one that’s best for your cat.
Consult Your Vet
The first thing to do if you notice your dog eating poop is consult your vet. There are a few reasons why your dog might be exhibiting the behavior, and some are more serious than others. For instance, if your dog is compensating for a dietary deficiency or an underlying medical condition is a contributing factor, it’s important to treat those with your vet’s help. Once you’ve ruled out anything serious, the following tips can help get your dog’s appetite back on track.
Teach Them the Drop It Command
Teaching your dog the drop it command is an excellent way to keep all sorts of icky and unsettling things out of their mouth. Check out our Chewtorial on Teaching Your Dog to Drop It for more.
Practice Clean Habits
In multiple pet households, a dog eating cat poop is common. Cats tend to have a high protein diet and your pup’s elevated olfactory sense may be picking up on that protein source. Keeping your pup’s feedings to a consistent schedule can help emphasize the boundaries that separate their food from other aspects of daily life. If they can learn that their bowl is the only appropriate place for food, their bed for sleep, etc. that can help them differentiate what is and isn’t acceptable to eat.
Make Poop Inaccessible
As mentioned in the previous step, the protein content may be the culprit behind why dogs eat cat poop but denying your dog access to the area where the litter box is with a gate can be a reliable way to restrict their access. You can also look into specialty products that make your cat’s poop unappealing to dogs.
Try to clean up any potty accidents that happen inside to remove the potential for revisiting the scene of the crime to turn into a second offense.
Provide Positive Attention & Mental Enrichment
The big reaction that you respond to seeing your dog eating poop might be one of the reasons they’re tempted to do it. One way to discourage this is by letting them know they don’t need to be shocking to get your attention. Try paying them attention throughout the day and be generous with praise or treats.
Incorporating interactive playtime of an hour per day helps your dog feel loved and works wonders for their overall health. It’s also a good idea to incorporate mentally stimulating toys into their regular play to help keep them focused and prevent them from getting bored.
Be Consistent with Potty Breaks
Keeping their potty breaks regimented by providing opportunities at the same time every day will help reduce the frequency of indoor accidents. Dogs that know that going potty inside is frowned upon might be trying to hide the evidence of an accident so as not to upset you. Letting them out frequently provides ample opportunities for your pup to relieve themselves and helps them to understand there’s no need to hold it in.
Teaching leave it provides pet parents with an invaluable tool for all the times your dog stumbles upon something gross and feels compelled to pick it up….with their mouth. The specifics of how to teach leave it are a bit more in depth than some of our other lessons but stick with it. With a little patience and practice, your dog will be turning their nose up to all things icky in no time. It’s also worth mentioning that this lesson would be a good modification to the “drop it” command, so if your pup hasn’t learned drop it yet, that’s probably a better place to start. Check out the Drop It Chewtorial for help.
Gather Your Supplies
You’ll need 10 dog treats and a way to hide them. You can use a dog training treat pouch, your pocket, or even just hide the treats behind your back.
Wait For Your Dog To Look at You
This step is easy. Perhaps the easiest in leave it training. Just wait for your dog to look at you and when they do, praise them and feed them a treat. Avoid using any action, gesture, or vocalization to attract their attention. The key here is for your dog to learn that looking at you will result in getting a treat.
Repeat Until Your 10 Treats Are Gone
Repeat the previous step until you have given all 10 treats away. Remember, no provoking your dog to look. It’s important for them to know that looking at you unprovoked is what is getting them the reward.
Introduce a Temptation
Now place a single treat in your hand and extend your arm all the way out to the side. Be sure your dog notices you do it and that they know what’s in your extended hand. We’ll call this your “temptation hand”.
Wait For Your Dog to Look Away From the Temptation
Watch your dog closely and wait for them to look away from your temptation hand. Like in previous steps, you’re waiting for them to look at you, but now you’re holding something desirable in your extended hand, so be patient. Teaching the leave it command consists of a whole lot of waiting on your dog.
Feed a Treat With Your Other Hand
As soon as your dog looks away from your temptation hand, praise them and feed them a treat from your other hand. It might be worth putting your temptation hand behind your back or hiding it in some way that lets them know the treat they were staring at for so long is not the one they are being fed.
If your dog looks at you while your temptation hand is outstretched, and they don’t even glance it or pay it any mind, praise that too.
Do this step 10 times and take a break of at least 30 minutes.
Add a Verbal Cue
Once you get to the point where your dog is reliably looking away from your temptation hand, add a verbal cue such as “Icky” or “Not yours” or even just plain old “Leave it”.
Say Your Cue
Whatever your cue is, say it clearly when they look away from your temptation hand.
Hold Out Your Temptation Hand
Same as before, hold out the hand with the temptation treat in it but do it right after saying your leave it cue.
Wait For Your Dog to Look at You
Patience is key. Be ready.
Praise Them & Feed Them a Treat With Your Other Hand
Once they look away from your temptation hand, feed them a treat from your other, non-temptation hand and shower on the praise. It’s a little bit complicated at first but eventually you should get to a point where your dog will look at you right when you say your cue.
Keep Practicing
When you get to the point where your dog knows your cue, try adding in more challenging aspects to the exercise. You can do this by lowering your temptation hand or by holding the temptation with an open palm instead of a closed fist.
Only implement one variation at a time and remember to allow your dog to set the pace. If you try a variation and they can’t resist the temptation, go back to something easier and let them work up to the challenge in smaller steps.
As with other Chewtorials, practice makes perfect when teaching the leave it command, so pile on the practice. This exercise should help regardless of age so if you’re teaching a puppy to leave it, do the same thing but with more patience. You’ve got this.
1. Gather Your Supplies
You’ll need a harness or walking jacket to take your cat out on walks. It can be dangerous to use a leash on a cat if it connects directly to their collar due to the potential for injury. We recommend walking a cat on a harness or a cat halter and leash combo as a safer alternative.
2. Introduce the Harness
It’s best to get your cat acquainted with the harness before you try putting it on. First, just leave it around the house in places they’re likely to see it and give them a chance to inspect it. Cats and harnesses need time to get to know one another.
Try fastening and unfastening the buckles or buttons of the harness while your cat’s nearby to familiarize them with the sounds that it makes.
3. Try the Harness On
Once they’ve had a chance to get familiar with the harness, it’s time to try it on. You don’t have to connect the leash yet— just allowing your cat to do their thing around the house helps in harness training your cat by letting them get used to wearing it.
4. Practice Walking On Leash Indoors
Once your cat wears the harness around the house comfortably, it’s time to attach the leash. Start slow, walking your cat from room to room, at whatever pace they’re comfortable with.
Harness training your cat is mostly just a process of allowing them to get accustomed to being on the leash. This helps them have an easier time when you get outside.
5. Carry Your Harnessed Cat Outside
When your cat has gotten comfortable wearing the harness and walking around the house while on leash, it’s time to take to the streets….or, more like the porch, really. Once they’re wearing the harness and you have their leash attached, pick them up and carry them to the door. This helps them to learn that going outside requires wearing the harness. It can help prevent them from door-dashing every time the door is open.
6. Explore the Great Outdoors.
Once outside, take it slow. Try to remember that being outdoors, even if it’s just the front porch, is a whole new world for your kitty. Let them explore at their own pace and don’t try to force them to venture outside their comfort zone before they’re ready. Once their inner explorer is out, you’ll likely stay busy just trying to keep up. Stay safe out there!
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Step One: Get Ready.
Grab about ten of your dog’s favorite treats and isolate yourself from any other pets that might be tempted to compete for your attention or the treats. It will also help your pup to focus on learning their name.
Step Two: Say Your Dog’s Name
Say their name and offer them a treat. Their response isn’t important yet. You just want to build a link between calling your dog by name and a reward. As long as they can hear you say it, you’re one step closer to teaching your dog their name.
Step Three: Repeat
This simple action— saying their name and feeding them a treat may seem too easy, but in short lessons of a few minutes, it’s an excellent way of teaching your dog to recognize their name.
Try integrating two lessons per day for the first few days. Try dog calling outside of the room you practice in and see how they react. It’s a good way of measuring their progress.
Step Four: Switch Things Up
Once you’re comfortable that the lessons for teaching your dog to recognize their name have started making an impact, try saying their name in different tones of voice.
Try calling their name with different inflections and emotions. Say their name as if scared, excited, as if you’re in a hurry... This will help your dog to recognize their name regardless of how it is spoken or by whom.
You can also try incorporating distance between the two of you or calling your dog by name in different places, in the company of other pets or people.
Teaching your dog to know their name is an essential part of building a rewarding relationship with them. It also provides a crucial tool to help keep them safe. Be patient and remember to let them learn at their own pace. Before long you’ll be calling your dog by name with ease.
First, gather your supplies. For this Chewtorial, you’ll need a tape measure and some treats to reward your dog for their good behavior.
Start at the base of their neck and wrap the tape measure around, close to their fur but allowing for two of your fingers to slip under the tape.
Next, you’ll measure their chest. This is the measurement that’ll influence the fit of their clothes the most. Starting just under their armpit, underneath their body, around their ribcage and over their shoulder blades.
Finally, you’ll measure their length. Stretch the tape measure in a straight line starting from the base of their tail to their withers. Withers is the technical term for the small indent between their shoulder blades.
Now you have all the required measurements to get your dog decked out. Chewy uses a sizing chart to help shoppers choose the right size dog clothing so use these measurements to compare with the sizing chart to ensure the perfect fit. Be sure to check out Chewy’s vast selection of pet apparel.
It’s a common pastime for dogs, of course, but you can teach a cat to play fetch, too. All it takes is a little practice.
First, pick out a toy you know they love. It can be an old favorite, or a new toy acquired just for the cat training occasion. The important thing is that your cat is interested in it.
Toss the toy a short distance. When they chase it and pounce on it, give them praise and celebrate their action. Giving them a treat is also great because they’ll associate the reward with the action of playing fetch.
Once they have the chasing part down, you can start implementing the other crucial part of teaching your cat fetch: returning the toy back to you.
Continue to throw their toy a short distance but now, when they have it in their paws or in their mouth, remain stationary and encourage them to come to you. You can use your usual verbal cue or coax them over with a treat, if necessary. Call out their name with enthusiasm and hold out the treat. Remember to congratulate them when they return the toy. Positive reinforcement is an essential part of teaching your cat to play fetch.
Lastly, just keep practicing! Playing fetch with your cat is its own reward and the more you practice, the stronger the bond between you will become. Plus, showing off their new skill is a stellar party trick.
A counter surfing dog goes beyond just bad dog behavior. The item your dog swipes off the kitchen counter could be toxic or unsafe to chew. The first step in stopping a counter surfer dog is to keep food off your counters. Make the counters less tempting by not keeping food on the countertop for long periods of time.
Next, teach your dog the “off” cue. With this dog training, your dog will be rewarded for having all their feet on the ground. This will help put a stop to dog jumps.
For step 3, it might be difficult to spot, but when you see your dog make the conscious decision not to jump on the counter, practice positive reinforcement. Reward them with dog treats, head scratches, cuddles, or praise. This is important when learning how to keep your dog off the counter.
Finally, the last step is to remove items like furniture that make access easier. A good reminder when learning how to stop counter surfing is to make it harder in the first place. While keeping your dog from counter surfing can be tricky, Chewy is here to help keep your dog’s paws on the ground.
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Next, have them meet in a neutral area. Wondering how to introduce dogs at dog park? The same way you would with any neutral area. Slowly and with plenty of places to sniff to keep them busy.
If you’re curious on how to introduce dogs on leash, then follow the next step. Take both dogs on a long walk but with a healthy amount of space between them and treats for both. After a bit, you can start introducing dogs to each other more formally by allowing them to sniff each other.
This leads to allowing the dogs to gradually greet each other. Once they seem comfortable then you can let them interact at one of the dog’s houses and yards. As long as the dogs remain, calm you can drop their leashes and let them have fun. While there are many steps on how to introduce dogs, it’s meant to make sure everyone has a good time.
1. Make sure it’s a tick.
Skin tags can sometimes be mistaken for ticks, so before you take any action, it’s important to confirm that you’re dealing with a pest that needs to be removed, not a benign part of your dog’s body. Look for these tick characteristics:
8 legs
A black, tan or brown body (sometimes, after feeding on an animal, they can turn gray)
A size anywhere from 1 millimeter to 1 centimeter long
If you are unsure if what you are looking at is a tick, take your dog to the vet to have them check for you.
2. Gather supplies.
To remove a tick from a dog, you will need:
Fine point tweezers or a tick remover device
Latex gloves, or gloves made of a latex alternative, to protect your hands
Rubbing alcohol
Canine-friendly antimicrobial wound spray or ointment
A small jar or container with a lid
To keep your dog distracted and calm during this process, you may also want to have:
Dog treats
A favorite chew toy
A lick pad
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3. Restrain or distract your dog.
It's best if your dog is calm and lying down when you remove the tick—if they make any sudden movements, it could botch the removal process. So do your best to keep yourself calm as you approach your dog. Ask them to lie down, and distract them with the goodies we recommended above—treats, something delicious to chew or lick, whatever will hold their attention away from the tick removal process. You may also want to enlist the help of a friend or family member to keep your dog still.
4. Grasp the tick with your tool.
The specifics of how to remove a tick from a dog vary slightly depending on the tool you’re using, so be sure to read the instructions that came with your tool. In most cases, you’ll want to grasp the tick as close as possible to your dog’s skin, using caution not to pinch your dog’s skin itself.
5. Remove the tick.
If you’re using tweezers, a tick scoop, key or card, pull the tick straight back from your dog’s skin with a slow and steady motion. Keep slowly pulling until the tick lets go of your dog’s skin. Don’t twist or jerk the tick away, because that can leave behind tick mouth-parts embedded in your dog’s skin, which can cause inflammation and infection.
If you’re using a tick twister, twist upward to release the tick.
6. Safely contain the tick.
Your instinct might be to fling the tick in the trash, smoosh it, or flush it down the toilet—we get it. But if your dog develops any signs of tick-borne disease, it can be helpful for your veterinarian to know exactly what bit them and what illnesses they were carrying.
For that reason, it’s a good idea to keep the tick in a safe and secure container for several weeks after the bite, while you monitor your dog for symptoms. You can do this by dropping the tick into a small, sealable container or jar containing rubbing alcohol to kill it, and write the date you removed the tick on the container.
Whatever you do, don’t crush the tick with your fingers. This can expose you to infectious organisms in the tick. And remember to wear gloves when handling the tick for removal and containment.
7. Check the site of the tick bite.
Examine the skin where you removed the tick immediately after removing it. If you have been successful in removing the whole tick, gently cleanse your dog’s skin with a small amount of pet-safe disinfectant or soap and water, then apply a small amount of canine-specific wound spray or ointment. Monitor your dog for 15 minutes after applying spray/ointment to make sure they don’t lick it off. You may want to briefly use a cone collar if your dog is persistent about licking the area.
Remember to wash your own hands well with soap and water, too, as well as your removal tool and any other items that may have touched the tick during this process.
If there are any embedded tick mouth parts left behind in your dog’s skin, call your veterinarian and make an appointment with them to remove the tick’s head and mouthparts.
8. Watch for symptoms for several weeks.
Monitor your dog for any signs of tick-borne disease for several weeks. Signs of illness include:
Lethargy
Fever
Lameness (i.e. inability to walk)
Swollen/sore joints
Swollen lymph nodes
Loss of appetite
Neurological problems
If you notice any of the above, call your vet for an appointment and take the tick with you to your visit.
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Watch this video, and with a bit of trial and error, you'll figure out what works best for your dog. And in no time you'll become an expert in the best ways to give a dog a pill.
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If you're looking to teach a dog to walk up stairs and need to get pet stairs, dog stairs or even a dog ramp, you can find a full line of Frisco by Chewy options on our website at Chewy.com.
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First, you will need to gather supplies, such as a flea comb, rubbing alcohol, flea shampoo, flea and tick prevention treatment, and solutions to treat your home or yard, such as insecticide sprays. Step 2 is all about using your flea comb for cat flea removal and flea poop removal from your kitty’s fur. In Step 3, we move on to the fun part...giving your cat a bath! Don’t worry, we will walk you through it and provide more resources in case you need help! Step 4 is the uber-important flea infestation prevention step. Flea treatment for cats is crucial for their well-being, and for yours, so please don’t skip this step! Thoroughly ridding your environment – both home and yard- of pesky fleas is up next in Step 5. Finally, in Step 6 we will remind you to repeat the steps.
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