Nicole Rudolph
18th century Menswear: Hand Sewing Breeches
updated
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Sometimes you come across a quiet little bit of research that absolutely changed our entire world. I've always wondered how we ended up with teaching the arts in schools and with such a wide proliferation of hobbies. Turns out, the mid 20th century thought we'd all be working 3-5 hours a week and be bored to death. The fight to get free time, and the fight to fill it, has left us with some dramatic problems.
From hobby horses to the Haymarket Riots to the Boredom Epidemic, the history of how we all got hobbies is crazy.
Images from:
digitalcollections.nypl.org
loc.gov
britishmuseum.org/collection
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00:00 Riding the Hobby Horse
04:53 Middle Class Women's Time
11:23 40-hour Weeks
16:15 Boredom Epidemic
21:04 Art in School
23:24 "Useful"
From the 8 hour work day to teaching Art in schools, the story of how hobbies became an option for all of us is full of drama. In fact, we rioted to get our free time, then a panic over mental health filled it all back up. The world we were promised and prepared for is one of 5 hour work weeks and free education for all.
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It seems like we have a constant onslaught of new trends every year with an overturning call back to decade after decade. Whether it's the bright and colorful 1980s or funky Y2k fashion, we're always looking back to find inspiration. But, we're running through decades in just a couple of years. Are we really speeding up that much? Has fast fashion, or the micro trend popularity, really put an end to the trend cycle?
Turns out, this is nothing new. We've been harkening back to bygone days for centuries for style inspiration. Its just that this time, we have the whole internet at our disposal. When we bring back bell bottoms, there's a host of pictures from runway to highschool students showcasing the last round. We know more about the past than we ever have before. But that doesn't mean the trend cycle is useless. It can tell us so much about how we as a society feel right now, and maybe even where we are headed next.
So, let's take a look at Fall 2024 trends to see how they have fared over the last few centuries!
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00:00 Old is New
05:14 Silhouette & Sleeves
08:38 Bell Bottoms
15:26 Mary Jane Shoes
18:20 Suede
24:19 Leopard Print
29:48 Future Forecasting
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Second hand clothing has been around for all of history. Markets and shops devoted to this business have found entire neighborhoods in large cities. But today our version of thrift shops is entirely different. They are often large, international brands that are brightly lit, organized by size and type. There are entire communities of people devoted to shopping there, showing off their hauls and wardrobes discovered in the giant stores. There's also the subset of antique and vintage shops that focus on certain eras or styles. It's nothing like what thrift stores looked like only a century or two ago. So what happened to take these shops out of the stereotypes of back-alley piles of disease riddled clothing to a thriving activity? And how did they get those stereotypes in the first place? Were Victorian second-hand shops the menace they were accused of being?
Images from:
digitalcollections.nypl.org
loc.gov
britishmuseum.org/collection
londonmuseum.org.uk
Articles:
https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-08-12/fast-fashion-turning-parts-ghana-into-toxic-landfill/100358702
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00:00 Custom-made Problems
03:37 Market Demand
06:15 Sellers
11:59 Reputation
14:47 Charity
19:49 Vintage Trends
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Whether we've worn high heels or not, we've heard the stories of sore feet, twisted ankles, and the curse of fashion. Most often, women are blamed for being silly and vapid for wearing them, supposedly all in the name of attracting men. Yet, men have been some of the loudest dissenters when it comes to high heels in the last few decades. Clearly, there's more to these shoes than just "sexy".
If we wind our way back to the origins of heeled shoes, a different story is told. One where men are just as fond of high heels as women, where function and form go together. Somehow, over the centuries, shoes went in different directions based on gender. Slender, high heels came to represent femininity for some and anti-feminism for others.
So, yes, men did invent high heels. And they have made them for centuries (shoemaking has always been mostly men). But the idea that they did so to hobble women looses validity when we realize they did it first. The 17th century just wasn't ready for how far fashion would go, nor how much the Victorian era would despise it.
artsandculture.google.com/story/standing-tall-the-curious-history-of-men-in-heels-bata-shoe-museum/AgVRZR_j5AhtLA?hl=en
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00:00 Origins
02:39 Into Europe
09:26 Practical Luxury
12:43 Growing Apart
17:21 Rising Concerns
21:10 Medical Panic
26:04 Gendering
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We've long made fun of the extremes of Victorian etiquette- everything from how they dress to how they eat. But, is there more to it than just a silly set of rules? It turns out, the middle class had lots of reasons for needing the pile of lengthy manuals. It was just about being fashionable, or acting like the rich. They were developing a system of manners that is still with us today- even if we have left off a few of the more complex parts.
Favorite Sources:
archive.org
digitalcollections.nypl.org
loc.gov
metmuseum.org/art/libraries-and-research-centers/watson-digital-collections/costume-institute-collections/costume-institute-fashion-plates
emilypost.com
gutenberg.org/files/62724/62724-h/62724-h.htm
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00:00 Mesopotamia to Middle Class
06:11 Manuals Make-up
11:32 Greetings & Gloves
15:26 Hats Off
20:01 Traveling
23:48 Clothing
28:17 Modern Etiquette
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Tailoring used to be far more dramatic, even after we had moved over to off-the-rack mass production. The ideal body shape for men has long focused on the broad shoulders and generally shapeless body. It turns out, however, that this might be because of fast fashion more than it is about our own ideals! As of the late 1910s menswear was particularly curvy, with a broad chest and hips, but narrow shoulders and waist. I've always wondered how the silhouette actually looks on a moving body, rather than just in fashion drawings. So, today, I'm experimenting with some old drafting patterns to bring this era back to life!
Patterns:
web.archive.org/web/20230227003006/issuu.com/micksmom2/docs/the_progressive_tailor_s-s_1920
google.com/books/edition/Sartorial_Art_Journal_and_the_American_T/ju3G-fAHG0AC?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=tailor&printsec=frontcover
Image Sources:
digitalcollections.nypl.org
shorpy.com
Supplies (NYDF regularly go on sale)
nydesignerfabrics.com/collections/silk-wool/products/royal-orchid-silk-wool-fabric
nydesignerfabrics.com/collections/silk-rayon-velvet/products/wine-silk-rayon-velvet-fabric
bblackandsons.com/product/french-collar-canvas-heavy-weight
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00:00 Patterning Trends
07:36 Cut & Shape
10:29 Proportions
13:10 Internal Structure
17:03 Curvy Collars
19:26 Hiding in Linings
21:58 Sleeves
24:18 Reveal
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00:00 Etiquette for Dress
02:41 Prince Albert & the Smoking Jacket
05:31 Tuxedo Park Dudes
09:27 Frog Tail Woes
11:46 Dinner Jacket
13:23 Where to Wear
15:21 Black v. White Tie
18:17 Skirts & Shrimp Variations
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Colonial Williamsburg article: colonialwilliamsburg.org/learn/living-history/how-much-clothing-did-18th-century-woman-really-own
Inventories: research.colonialwilliamsburg.org/DigitalLibrary/inventories/search.cfm
1920 Standards of Living: google.com/books/edition/Standards_of_Living/3mRaAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0
1923 Economics of the Family: babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015062980068&seq=7
1929 Economic Principles of Consumption: babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=wu.89047217609&seq=11
1888 The Practical Budget: babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=loc.ark:/13960/t2g741q2d&seq=3
1923 Macy Budget: google.com/books/edition/How_Much_Should_I_Spend_for_Clothes/uwdQAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0
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00:00 Elinor or Ann Eliza
03:56 18th c Inventories
08:33 Ready to Wear
10:31 Household Budgets
16:59 Clothing Prices
21:29 Wardrobe Lists
29:20 Nothing but Underwear
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pinterest.com/colevintage/rainbow
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00:00 ROYGBIV
02:51 1600-1800 Brocades
05:39 1800-1850 Ombre Shading
09:15 1850-1900 Stripes to Aniline
12:33 Fancy Dress
13:57 1900-1930 Colorfast
15:24 1930-2000 Technicolor
17:34 Pride & More
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Our feet are incredibly complex, and yet we learn so little about them. Instead, we suffer through so many uncomfortable shoes thinking they'll just "break in" eventually (or out feet will just toughen up). But, often things don't get better. The nuances of our feet and how they are proportioned, how they move and change, even the shape of our toes, makes some shoes incredibly incompatible. To say nothing about how modern shoes put aesthetics ahead of comfort!
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00:00 Bones & Boots
05:46 Variables
08:01 Proportions & Width
11:16 Toe Shapes
14:07 Arch
17:17 Heel Space
19:47 Pressure Points
22:48 Materials & Choices
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This video is kindly sponsored by Brooklinen.
When Consumption peaked in the early 19th century, there was a panic over how to manage the growing numbers. It wasn't a predictable disease- hopping from person to person with months or years before symptoms appeared. Which led doctors to believe that it wasn't contagious, but instead fueled by their family history and activities. It was a disease that could be found in the upper classes, affecting young and seemingly healthy people. So they looked to fashion and fashionable activities as the culprit. Everything from corsets to reading novels took the blame, and we've never recovered from the stereotypes. The idea that women are vain and obsessed with fashion solidified with the propaganda, as did the unfounded fear of corsets, the modern concept of purity and modesty, and so much more.
Today it's common to see fashion cited as one of the exciters of consumption, despite our modern knowledge that it's a bacterial infection. It's not because we blame their thin shoes or high collars, it's because we've been taught they were so silly about vanity that they endangered themselves to achieve it. Using poisons, starvation, and more to achieve the "look". But, the reality is, the romantic nature of consumption in the era wasn't due to fashion, it was due to the ideals of the time expecting young women to be frail and demure, expecting young men to be intellectual and modest. Tuberculosis excited these features, bringing the victims closer to their ideals of heightened sensitivity and religious dependence.
All to say, by also blaming fashion for the romance around tuberculosis, we ignore the actual reasons which are still with us today. We still have an "ideal" of womanhood that includes personality traits and activities that aren't healthy. We still treat illness as a form of redemption or punishment. We still blame those who are ill (especially chronic) with not doing the right things to stay healthy, while also making those things difficult to achieve. Just think about how much healthier (physically and mentally) a population who had safe ways to walk around every day would be! But instead we blame people for not getting in their car, driving across town, paying a monthly fee, and spending hours inside at a gym.
Crash Course Lecture @crashcourse : youtube.com/watch?v=7D-gxaie6UI
Recommended Reading
Consumptive Chic: bloomsbury.com/us/consumptive-chic-9781350009400
American Beauty: amzn.to/3yex29e
Thesis: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/textilesdiss/12/
Image Sources
digitalcollections.nypl.org
loc.gov
britishmuseum.org/collection
https://library.yale.edu/
wellcomecollection.org
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00:00 Contagion & Confusion
06:26 Predisposition
10:04 Beauty Ideals
15:23 Fashion as Villain
23:38 Lasting Consequences
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Historical tailoring can easily become overwhelming with the number of options there are for construction! So, I'm going to look at two of the antique waistcoats in my collection, both from around the turn of the century, to see two ways of managing this garment. The first is a summer waistcoat, so it has no internal layers and all quick machine stitching. The second is a formal style meant to be worn with a tail coat, so it has canvas on the interior and a lot more hand-stitching.
Fashion Plates:
metmuseum.org/art/libraries-and-research-centers/watson-digital-collections/costume-institute-collections/costume-institute-fashion-plates
Recommended Suppliers:
biasbespoke.com
bblackandsons.com
macculloch-wallis.co.uk
burnleyandtrowbridge.com
The canvas I used in this video: bblackandsons.com/product/french-collar-canvas-heavy-weight
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00:00 Introduction
01:46 Antiques
06:16 Supplies
15:32 Summer Construction
26:55 Evening Construction
41:22 Reveal
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00:00 Colorful Myths
02:43 Royal Infants
05:29 Dutch Announcements
09:23 Color Meanings
11:37 Laundry Problems
15:29 Layette Options
17:44 Colorfast Opportunities
21:07 Instituting Gender
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While the idea of boycotts goes way back, the name only dates as far as 1880. But the name took hold fast and became a standard in an industrial world. After WWI, when prices had nearly doubled due to inflation, there was a big threat of sudden deflation. Companies were threatening to lower wages, but without lowering prices. More and more evidence of profiteering was showing up and laws were being put into place to crack down. But it wasn't a smooth process. By 1920, people were fed up with how much clothing cost and decided to start what was meant to be a long term boycott of overpriced garments. While the spectacle only lasted a few weeks, the effect it had was wide spread. In the mean time, thousands of Americans had added denim to their wardrobe. Overalls and jeans had a sudden boom in popularity that never really left. They also started their life as a middle-class garment with the same spirit of rebellion that would follow them well into the 1970s.
Links on Boycotts
ethicalconsumer.org/ethicalcampaigns/boycotts
letthemeatcereal.info
bdsmovement.net
Photos
loc.gov
digitalcollections.nypl.org
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00:00 The Great Inflation
06:39 Profiteering Problems
10:42 Organizing a Boycott
15:45 Long Term Effects
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While the complaint about women's pockets being substandard compared to mens has long existed, the sheer volume they were up against in the 19th century would have been difficult to match. Twelve was considered bare minimum before adding an overcoat, which doesn't even account for "specials" that tailors could add anywhere from inside another pocket to the outer coat sleeve for a lady's hand to stay warm while walking together. The problem starts when you realize just how easy it was to toss something in a pocket and loose or forget it. Especially since some of those pockets were set in the tails of coats and ended up UNDER the person when seated. More than a few entertaining stories of strange and regrettable choices abound. Everything from explosions to alligators!
Scarf from: eighthgeneration.com
Vest from: idodeclareshop.com/iddshop
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00:00 Importance of Pockets
04:23 Standard Locations
09:18 Approved Contents
13:32 Bad Ideas
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Women's boots have really only been popular for just over 200 years. And during some of their earliest days they went through some of the biggest changes! My collection of antique shoes has grown to over 50 pairs, and about 1/3 of those are boots. Ranging from flashy red silk to worn out black leather, they show the dynamic range that women had to choose from in different eras. The 19th century Victorians brought back heels, popularized elastic, and got more than a little experimental with their styles. In the early 20th century boots became a big part of fashionable city life, but never lost their creativity.
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00:00 1840-60
04:21 1860-80
08:45 1880-1900
12:55 1900-1920
15:51 1920-1940
19:25 Galoshes & Carriage Boots
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Read Trilby here: google.com/books/edition/Trilby/HBMNrf-ULasC?hl=en&gbpv=0
Movies and satires:
Trilby (1914): youtube.com/watch?v=XoZ5xfvZI7k&t=5s
Trilby (1915): youtube.com/watch?v=922ScNjQJN8&t=4s
Trilby (1922 play): youtube.com/watch?v=q-PyfLL3ZL8&t=3s
Svengali (1931): youtube.com/watch?v=Srec5heOwKk&t=32s
Svengarlic (1931): youtube.com/watch?v=p_N7Sx20eq4
Svengali (1983): youtube.com/watch?v=5Za4_aDKn7o&t=69s
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00:00 The Tea on Trilby
02:09 Synopsis
07:23 The Perfect Foot
10:57 Merch
12:49 Pedicures
15:14 Celebrity Feet
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Books referenced:
Mademoiselle by Rhonda K. Garelick amzn.to/3tPzDom
Sleeping with the Enemy by Hal Vaughan amzn.to/3tOAV36
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00:00 Early Influencer
03:27 Jersey Knit
09:14 Little Black Dress
14:51 Girl Bossed too close to the sun
23:58 Rebranding
29:10 Taking Credit
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Pattern here: patreon.com/posts/comfy-slipper-95510220?
Felt & Tassels: thefeltpod.com
Leather- elk, kangaroo, kid, or "nappa" style around 2oz (.8mm)
districtleathers.com
weaverleathersupply.com
maverickleathercompany.com
rmleathersupply.com
Ribbon- 1-1.5" satin or plain weave
burnleyandtrowbridge.com/collections/ribbon
britexfabrics.com/collections/silk-satin-ribbon
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00:00 History
05:19 Measuring
08:09 Pattern Adjusting
18:32 Supplies
21:27 Cutting Out
24:17 Sewing
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00:00 Greenery from Afar
05:33 Strange Meats
07:41 Glitter & Snow
11:30 Fear of Fire & Goblinsstmasn
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I started shoemaking about ten years ago when I realized I'd never find a pair of shoes that fit me like I needed. And even though the first pair failed to fit, I loved the challenge and 40 pairs later it never fails to be full of surprises! Starting in 18th century women's styles, I ventured out to range from the 15th century up through the 1920s. It never ceases to amaze how every era has it's own methods of construction and details of style.
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00:00 First failure, first success
05:53 New construction
08:02 Learning to walk
11:57 Venturing out
15:29 New eras
18:21 On video
22:08 Future projects
This video is kindly sponsored by Brooklinen
While I've made countless 18th century gowns for myself and others at this point, I've never had to pattern on myself by myself. Considering the most detailed part of the gown is often the back, that creates a very complex problem! But with a ball looming and a new pair of stays to fit over, I had to come up with a system to work through those issues. And along with a couple days of diligent hand sewing, I was able to pattern, fit, and make an 18th century ball gown in time.
Net Fabric: bandjfabrics.com/fabric/metallic-point-desprit-ivory-and-gold
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00:00 Design
07:42 Patterning
18:16 Back, Front, First Fitting
23:53 Finishing the Bodice
27:19 Sleeves
33:37 Skirt
36:41 Reveal
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Harmony & Contrast of Colors- Chevreul (English reprint): google.com/books/edition/The_Principles_of_Harmony_and_Contrast_o/AL1Lyjyrh_gC?hl=en&gbpv=1&printsec=frontcover
Contraste Simultané des Couleurs- Chevreul (French 1839): archive.org/details/Delaloiducontra00Chev/page/n5/mode/2up?view=theater
Color and Line in Dress- Hempstead (1945): archive.org/details/colorlineindress00hemp
Color Me Beautiful Makeup Book- Jackson (1987): archive.org/details/colormebeautiful0000jack/mode/2up?view=theater
Color Me a Season- Kentner (1978): archive.org/details/colormeseasoncom00kent/mode/2up
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00:00 Finding Seasons
06:09 Undertones & Lipstick
10:18 Victorian Rules
13:30 Color Theory
18:26 Self Analyzing
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Follow along with my process to prepare and attend a fantasy photography retreat on the coast of Oregon! It was a few months of planning, a couple very frantic weeks of sewing, and four very intense days with four separate themes: Elves, Nymphs, Pirates, and Seaside Romantic. Each one with it's own location, style, and costumes.
Photographers:
instagram.com/lizabetroberts
instagram.com/julie_floro
instagram.com/anyacorcoran
instagram.com/audreysreveries
instagram.com/emsolunna
instagram.com/potato.molotov
instagram.com/evieweigel
instagram.com/freshfrippery
instagram.com/boseph158
instagram.com/as.itseams
Supplies
Velvet: prismsilks.com/collections/velvet/products/antique-gold-on-burnt-orange-hand-painted-silk-velvet-fabr
Crown: etsy.com/shop/gardensofwhimsy
Boots: madewell.com/the-antoine-tall-boot-in-leather-NN034.html?dwvar_NN034_color=BK5229&cgid=shoes-boots#start=41
Gold Bits: tinseltrading.com
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00:00 Intro & Plans
06:46 Making Elven
10:47 Making Seaside
13:56 Making Nymphs
16:43 Planning Pirates
18:21 The Event
22:06 BTS Footage
Have you ever wondered how ghosts got their clothing? What fashions led to the white sheet with holes for eyes? And why is nearly every ghostly media set in the Victorian era? We associate all of these strange things with spirits from beyond for a few good reasons- and that can provide us with ample inspiration for a haunted capsule wardrobe!
Shops:
idodeclareshop.com
en.voriagh.com
sondeflor.com
littlewomenatelier.com
etsy.com/shop/Gibsongirldress
linennaive.com
nuitclothingatelier.com
darcyclothing.com
linenhandmadestudio.com
fitforthegods.com
https://www.turnblack.in/
goatspell.com
holyclothing.com
ovate.ca
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00:00 History of Ghosts
06:33 Art Themes
09:34 The Transparent
11:56 The Shadow
14:30 The Frame
16:14 The Wait
17:47 The Windswept
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I had to be a bit creative with this design and process, however, as leaf leather is much more fragile and unforgiving than regular leathers. So not every style or last shape would do well. Shoemaking is usually a tough process that puts a lot of stress on the materials in order to get a clean shape. In the end, it was more like making a paper shoe than a leather one!
Leaf Leather: districtleathers.com/collections/leaf-leather
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00:00 Leaf Leather
04:02 Design
08:06 Prep
10:16 Lasting
19:15 Finishing
21:27 Reveal
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