Peter Zelinka
ASIAir Beginners Workflow | 2023 Edition
updated
In today's example we can see just how far BlurXterminator is able to go in salvaging some data!
You can download a free trial of BlurXTerminator here:
rc-astro.com/resources/BlurXTerminator/index.php
Since the mystery regarding the Carolina Bays has yet to be solved, it's nice to hear from differing viewpoints. In this interview, Michael lays out his hypothesis on how the Carolina Bays were formed, and how they relate to the enigmatic Australasian Tektite Field.
If you would like to download the Carolina Bays LIDAR imagery, you can find it on Michael's website:
http://cbaysurvey.cintos.org
Here's a link to Michael's GSA paper, which shows the full 30 page hypothesis:
pubs.geoscienceworld.org/books/edited-volume/2323/chapter-abstract/132525009/Postulating-an-unconventional-location-for-the?redirectedFrom=fulltext
The Mid-Pleistocene Transition Impact Hypothesis:
http://mptimpact.org
You can find more of Michael's papers here:
researchgate.net/profile/Michael-Davias-2
To learn more about the orbital mechanics of the impact hypothesis, check out Thomas Harris on researchgate:
researchgate.net/profile/Thomas-Harris-15
00:00 - Intro
01:38 - Discovering the Carolina Bays
02:22 - Goldsboro Ridge Enigma
05:10 - Impact Hypothesis
07:01 - Australasian Tektite Mystery
12:47 - Mid-Pleistocene Transition
13:52 - Falsifying the Hypothesis
16:30 - Measuring the Bays with LIDAR
25:51 - The High-Plains Playas
29:13 - Impact Hypothesis - Saginaw Bay
34:53 - Carolina Bay Erosion
41:57 - Crater Alignments - Multiple Impacts?
44:36 - How did the Carolina Bays Form?
49:08 - Problems with Zamora's Ice Boulder Hypothesis
55:18 - Problems with Comet Airburst
57:47 - Dating the Carolina Bays
1:00:29 - Clay in Carolina Bays
1:04:47 - Bay Rims are Hard to See
1:05:38 - Nebraska Rainwater Basins
1:09:36 - No Fossils in Bays?
1:12:54 - Learn more at Cintos
1:14:10 - Outro
My only real problem with this camera is the square sensor. This is fine for most people, but its not ideal for video (with a 16x9 ratio). Also, the camera resolution is ~3000 x ~3000 pixels, which is a bit low. However, I haven't noticed any real quality loss when cropping in.
All things considered, I'd highly recommend the ASI533MM for anyone looking for a monochrome camera with a small sensor!
You can purchase the ASI533MM here:
agenaastro.com/zwo-533mm-cooled-monochrome-astronomy-camera.html?aw_affiliate=eyJjYW1wYWlnbl9pZCI6IjQiLCJ0cmFmZmljX3NvdXJjZSI6IllvdVR1YmUiLCJhY2NvdW50X2lkIjoxM30
I also highly recommend getting the AM5 go-to mount. It's a game-changer for astrophotography:
agenaastro.com/zwo-am5-harmonic-drive-equatorial-mount-and-tripod.html?aw_affiliate=eyJjYW1wYWlnbl9pZCI6IjQiLCJ0cmFmZmljX3NvdXJjZSI6IllvdVR1YmUiLCJhY2NvdW50X2lkIjoxM30
00:00 - Intro
00:26 - Price & Filter Options
01:39 - Sensor Size & Crop Factor
03:20 - No Amp Glow!
04:06 - Cooling System
04:49 - Control the 533MM
05:30 - Photos
06:36 - Final Review
08:07 - Orion & Star Lore
11:21 - Tutorial - Stacking in DSS
19:31 - PixInsight Workflow
26:56 - Photoshop Workflow
34:00 - Outro
google.com/earth/about/versions
You can download all of the reference images and research papers I used for this video here:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/10u_XUW2bipR2rJtjZX2nHoraK3slZLjd?usp=share_link
A few months ago I had the unique opportunity to sit down with @TheRandallCarlson to discuss the sand formations found in the Sahara Desert. You can watch that video here:
youtu.be/LOtydLmdfV8
After our discussion, I was excited to learn as much as possible about the other sand dune formations found around the world. I quickly realized that the formation and movement of sand dunes are not as obvious as they might appear to the untrained eye. For example, the Barchan Dunes, which are found all around the world, appear to be shaped by water (at least, I thought they did). Thanks to the "Historical Imagery" tool though, I learned that these sand formations are moved fairly quickly by wind.
As I dug deeper into the various dune fields, I learned that there really hasn't been that much research done on them. Imagine that! Not too many people are eager to wander out into the middle of a lifeless desert to study how sand moves... Another thing that stood out to me is that most of the sand dune formation research was done nearly 100 years ago, by one man. His work still forms the foundation of modern science in this field. He never had access to satellite data though.
We are the first generation that has easy access to our entire planet, thanks to Google Earth. Using this tool, along with the Historical Imagery, we can understand how our planet changes over time.
In one of the research papers linked above, the scientists admit that the sand dunes found in the Scablands of Eastern Washington were created during the ice age floods, roughly 12,800 - 10,000 years ago. This sand is likely the remains of some mountain ranges up north, which were eroded as the Cordilleran Ice Sheet was catastrophically melting.
Based on this understanding, I began to look at our sand dunes around the world. The Nebraska Sand Hills, which are the largest dune field in the Western Hemisphere, have been dated to 12,600 years ago. That was the oldest sediment date found in the sand dunes. If that dating is accurate, it coincides almost perfectly with the initial meltdown of the Laurentide Ice Sheet. Therefore, the formation of the Nebraska Sand Hills may be similar to the formation of the Scabland dunes. As the Laurentide Ice Sheet began melting due to some catastrophe, large flows of meltwater came pouring down south. Some of these flood waters may have washed over Nebraska, and deposited a large amount of sand. This would have all taken place during the start of the Younger Dryas.
As we know, the Younger Dryas started with a bang, and then got very cold. It remained that way for roughly 1,200 years. At ~11,600 years the Younger Dryas ended due to another large warming spike and we eventually transitioned into the present Holocene epoch. With the help of the National Map Viewer, and the "Tinted Hillshade Overlay" we can clearly see which way the flood waters went. (To the east of Nebraska). Therefore, I would say it's possible the initial event that triggered the Younger Dryas sent a pulse of meltwater down into Nebraska, depositing most of the dune field. Then, at the end of the Younger Dryas, the meltwater formed a new path through South / North Dakota and Minnesota. This became the major outlet for most of the meltwater, which is why it is so well-defined. This also explains why the Nebraska Sand Hills still exist, they were spared from most of the direct flood waters of the melting Laurentide Ice Sheet.
Assuming this hypothesis is correct, it would help to explain the formation of other dune fields found around the world. This brings us to the Catastrophism vs Uniformitarianism debate. The Uniformitarians look at our present rates of change and erosion, and apply that same speed throughout history. In other words: slow, incremental, one grain of sand at a time. The canyons we see, like the Grand Canyon, took millions of years to erode. The mountains we see, like the Rockies, took millions of years to grow.
A catastrophist sees the world through a different lens, all around him are clear signs of fast, intense erosion and deposition. The mountains may have been formed much faster, especially if a comet or asteroid slammed into the planet and accelerated the movement of plates and faults. Or at the very least disturbed them enough to become more active. This could also trigger volcanoes to erupt, continental plates to jolt and create tsunamis, and much more.
These catastrophic events could even lead to large floods, which are capable of moving large quantities of sand...
@JimmyMcIntyre has lots of great Photoshop tutorials, and his Raya Pro plugin is crucial to this workflow. We'll use the InstaMask feature to quickly create our color masks. You can find Jimmy's Raya Pro here:
shutterevolve.com/raya-pro-the-ultimate-digital-blending-workflow-panel-for-photoshop
To learn more about astrophotography, check out my Deep Space Course on howtube:
howtube.com/series/eUVHB9fI
00:00 - Intro
01:46 - Layer Mask Refresher
03:34 - InstaMask Workflow
08:23 - "Apply Mask" Alternate Workflow
13:10 - Selective Color Adjustments
14:14 - Outro
howtube.com/series/pMFLni83
In today's video we'll take a look at my first Milky Way photos, ranging from 2014 - 2016. Surprisingly, they don't look as bad as I would've thought. The images are fairly grainy, the stars aren't 100% sharp, but the data isn't terrible. This just goes to show that you don't need the latest and greatest camera gear to take a nice Milky Way photo.
However, I do recommend getting a star tracker at some point. These devices will move your camera with the speed of the stars, allowing you to capture more light. I've got plenty of YouTube videos that will teach you how to use them as well.
Fluidscape by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100393
Artist: http://incompetech.com
00:00 - Looking back at the JPEGs
03:42 - RAW Editing Tutorial
10:06 - Double-Processing Tutorial
17:19 - Wide-Aperture Pros / Cons
21:12 - Light Pollution vs Dark Skies
27:18 - Final Thoughts
howtube.com/series/JOx736sk
In this video I'll show you how to create a beautiful star trails timelapse video. You will need StarStaX for this workflow, which you can download using the link below.
https://markus-enzweiler.de/software/starstax/
We'll start off editing the RAW photos in Adobe Bridge + Camera RAW. Be sure to fix the exposure, white balance, contrast, and saturation. Also, head to the Detail tab and lower the "Sharpening" slider to 0. You may also want to increase the "Noise Reduction" slider to around 10 -20.
After you've made your edits, save the RAWs as JPEGS in a new folder. Next, use StarStaX to create a demo star trails image. This will show off any problems with your edits. If the final star trails image doesn't look good, you can always go back and re-edit your RAW photos again. If the star trails image looks good though, besides the planes, you can continue on.
We'll head to Photoshop next and begin removing any planes or distracting lights from every single photo. This is optional, but highly recommended. Consider this - every light will be burned into the final video. Therefore, if a plane flies through the image within the first few photos, it will be there for the rest of the timelapse.
After all the plane trails have been removed from the individual JPEG photos, you can head back to StarStaX. Run through the processing again, this time using "Save After Each Step" option. We'll use these JPEGS to create the final video.
Finally, go back to Photoshop and click File - Open. Click on the first photo in the StarStaX folder, then click the "Open Image Sequence" button. Now click "Open" and Photoshop will take all of those photos and convert them to a video file. I recommend 24 FPS.
Feel free to add any Adjustment Layers you want to the video. I'd recommend a Curves, Vibrance, and a few Selective Colors.
00:00 - Intro
01:04 - Camera RAW Processing
08:04 - Test Photos for Problems
10:13 - Remove Planes and Lights
14:38 - Use StarStaX to Create Timelapse Photos
16:36 - Fix remaining problems
19:42 - Create Timelapse Video
25:58 - Outro
In this Alternate Workflow we'll be stacking the RAW data first. This will be a better choice if you are taking calibration frames. You always want to stack the RAW Lights, Darks, Flats, etc... After we've stacked our RAW photos with the calibration frames, we'll head over to PixInsight. There's a very powerful tool called "ScreenTransferFunction" that can fix both the Exposure and color cast with a single click!
When the image has been properly stretched you may start to notice more problems. Since I did not take any calibration frames, my stacked image still has a noticeable vignette and a slight amp glow. While there are ways to fix this in PixInsight, I prefer something easier.
GradientXterminator is a paid plugin for Photoshop that does a wonderful job removing DSLR amp glow, light pollution, and vignette gradients. You can download it here:
rc-astro.com/resources/GradientXTerminator
We can use GradientXterminator to quickly fix the vignette, without dealing with the complicated PixInsight workflow.
The next step of the workflow involves removing the stars. I recommend StarNet 2, which you can download here:
starnetastro.com/download
StarNet 2 is available both as a standalone application and a plugin for PixInsight. I find that the PixInsight version has more functionality and is ultimately easier to use. StarNet can even create a Star Mask image, which will come in handy later.
There is a major flaw with this alternate workflow though, and that is the Color Noise. In my standard workflow, this Color Noise is automatically removed at the very start in Camera RAW. We never even have to think about it. Since we stacked the RAW data today though (and I didn't incorporate any calibration frames) the Color Noise is baked into the stacked image.
I'd recommend watching some other YouTuber's for more information on removing color noise in PixInsight. I don't have enough experience yet with the software to show a fast, easy way to remove the color noise. So I'll leave that to someone else.
00:00 - Intro
00:32 - Stack RAW data with Calibration Frames
1:33 - Fix Exposure in PixInsight
02:16 - Fix Color Cast in PixInsight
03:19 - Apply Changes to Histogram
04:55 - Save Image and Open in Photoshop
05:33 - GradientXterminator
07:29 - StarNet 2 in PixInsight
09:37 - Star Reduction in Photoshop
13:17 - Enhance Galaxy Details
14:29 - Combine Images
15:31 - Color Noise Problems...
16:47 - Outro
For more information, check out my Deep Space Course on howtube:
howtube.com/series/eUVHB9fI
00:00 - Intro
00:53 - Camera RAW Processing
09:36 - Stack Photos
11:11 - Analyzing the Image
12:55 - Curves Adjustments
14:57 - Crop
15:31 - StarNet
17:29 - Enhance Galaxy Structure
20:28 - Star Reduction
24:23 - Combine Stars with StarNet
26:30 - Remove Grain & Final Processing
For those with the ZWO AM5 Mount, it's important to know that it will automatically stop rotating once the object you are photographing reaches the meridian. The mount is smart enough to know that if it rotates any further, it's entering the "danger zone". This can be problematic though, if you fall asleep and didn't have the meridian flip enabled. Since the mount is no longer tracking, all of your photos will be blurry.
For more information, check out my Deep Space Course on howtube:
howtube.com/series/eUVHB9fI
00:00 - Understanding the Meridian
02:04 - ASIAir Meridian Test
04:14 - Meridian Flip Settings
06:03 - AM5 Special Note
07:02 - Outro
The main reason you'd want to use this workflow is for the Sky Atlas feature. Assuming you have a Go-To Mount, you can quickly find any nebula or galaxy in the night sky. Plus, you'll see the composition before ever taking a photo! This will really speed things up.
Another benefit of this workflow is that you can monitor the images in real-time. If you notice some blurry stars, you can head outside and fix the problem. Without the ASIAir, you have no idea what's going on with the camera until you stop the interval and inspect the photos on the back LCD screen.
For more information, including links to all the products I mentioned, visit my howtube channel:
howtube.com/channels/PeterZelinka
00:00 - Intro
01:34 - Initial Setup & Cables
02:43 - Auto-Guider Configuration
05:27 - Get DSLR Ready
07:11 - Connect to ASIAir App
08:37 - Main Camera Settings
09:05 - Take First Photo & Plate Solve
10:15 - Polar Alignment
12:28 - Find Object with Sky Atlas
14:45 - Focus Lens
16:25 - Begin Guiding & Dither Settings
18:36 - Shooting Schedule
21:40 - Take First Image
22:18 - Stop and Refocus
23:54 - Outro
After we've stacked the FITS files, I'll do a quick Photoshop tutorial and show you how to create a beautiful color image.
To learn more, check out my Deep Space Course on howtube.com:
howtube.com/channels/PeterZelinka#tab_video_series
You can find the ASI Studio program here:
astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software-drivers
StarNet can be found here:
starnetastro.com/download
00:00 - Intro
00:33 - Download ASI Studio
01:00 - Stack Photos in Deep Stack
07:06 - Create Color Photo
08:51 - Align Stars
10:15 - Fix Color Cast
11:23 - Fix Contrast
12:07 - StarNet
15:54 - Add Stars back
16:45 - Topaz DeNoise
19:17 - Final Touches
20:35 - Outro
To read my full review, and get direct links to all the accessories, cables, and products in this video, head over to howtube.com:
howtube.com/13588
00:00 - Intro
01:03 - EQ6R Comparison
04:25 - Setup
10:44 - AM5 App Overview
13:20 - ASIAir Workflow
15:24 - Polar Alignment
18:57 - Find Object with Sky Atlas
21:11 - Test Photo
22:12 - Guiding & Shooting Schedule
26:36 - Begin Taking Photos
29:14 - Outro
In February 2022 I began updating all of my courses - the Deep Space Course, Star Trails Course, and my Star Tracker Courses. I'm excited to announce that they are finally complete and available on Howtube.com!
If you've already purchased any of my courses, you'll get free access to the latest versions! Just sign up for a free account on Howtube using the same email address that you originally purchased my course(s) with. They will be automatically added to your account.
Howtube is a website dedicated to learning new hobbies. I've been working directly with their team over the past few months to make sure the website has all the necessary features.
For example, below each video there's an "Additional Information" tab. I've written out a full description (usually 5,000 - 7,000 words!) for all 170+ videos! You can print these out and take them with you, or save them as PDFs and refer back to them as needed.
Another feature is the "Products" tab. I've gotten hundreds of comments and emails over the years, asking for arca-swiss clamps, cables, and other accessories I use in my videos. To make both our lives easier, you can now find direct links to all the relevant products I use under each video.
I've also enabled Downloads for my tutorials. You can download any video you want, save it to your smartphone / tablet, and watch out in the field. No internet connection required!
If you're a fellow content creator, then you might want to check out Howtube's Pro subscription. Once you sign up, you can begin selling your own courses, merchandise, and more. Based on my experience over the past few years, Howtube makes the entire process much easier!
From now until June 15th I'm offering a $100 discount on my brand new Milky Way Course. You can check it all out using the link below:
howtube.com/channels/PeterZelinka
00:00 - Intro
1:18 - Free Updates
2:31 - Howtube Features
4:30 - The Milky Way Course
7:49 - Creating your own Courses
The Sky Atlas is an interactive map that shows you the current FOV of your telescope + camera. This allows you to quickly frame up various nebulae and galaxies, and get an idea of how they'll look before you take a photo. The Sky Atlas can also move the Go-To mount to any region of the sky.
This is a fun way to explore the night sky, test your compositions, and control your mount, all within the ASIAir app.
After testing out the 533MM, I found that it did a pretty good job! I was honestly a bit skeptical about the "No Amp Glow", after having that problem with every ZWO camera so far. However, as you'll see, the new 533MM has 0 Amp Glow, just as advertised!
Beyond that, my only concern with the 533MM is the 1" square sensor. The 1" sensor is very small, giving you a 2.7x magnification for any focal length. I used the WO RedCat 51 telescope, which has a focal length of 250mm. When I pair the 533 with the RedCat, my new effective focal length is almost 700mm! If I was able to use my Tamron 150-600mm G1 lens with this camera (I can't due to the lens' aperture design), I'd have 1,620mm of effective focal length!
This brings us to the ASI 183MM. A lot of people emailed me over the years asking about this camera. Since it had a 1" sensor, it should pair well with the smaller telescopes like the RedCat or the Radian Raptor. I had never used the 183MM, so I didn't have much practical advice. ZWO is currently marketing the new 533MM as the successor to the 183MM, as well as a good entry-level dedicated astro camera.
While I like the magnification factor of the 1" sensor, I'm not a big fan of the 1x1 square crop. I prefer the more rectangular crop of a Full Frame or Crop Sensor. This makes it easier to show in videos (16x9), print out, or post online. The 1x1 square just doesn't work well for sharing, unless you're posting on Instagram. Again, this is all just my personal opinion. You might not care about the 1x1 ratio. Or, maybe you can utilize it for some high-res panoramas of the night sky!
All things considered, the ASI 533MM does a good job, especially when paired with a small telescope. It has good low-light performance, no amp glow, a reasonable price (~$1,000), and it pairs perfectly with the ASIAir.
Click the link below to more about the Deep Space Course, which has over 90 videos that will guide you through the entire process!
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
00:00 - Intro
00:21 - ASI 533MM Overview
02:29 - ASIAir Sky Atlas
05:04 - Capturing my Images
05:33 - ASI 533MM Image Review
08:21 - Outro
In this video, we'll go for a flight through the Outer Wilds. Along the way, I'll discuss some ideas I've been kicking around for the past few years.
Recommended Videos:
howtube.com/13227 - my Great Year 2.0 video
youtu.be/KuVIiFe_pG8 - Randall Carlson - Peshtigo Fire
youtu.be/NxLLZb96_mU - RC - Descent of Cosmic Fire
youtu.be/f2s_2Tl3HBE - RC - Epoch Ellipse
youtu.be/1TCIHM6C7-k - RC - Freak Firestorms
youtu.be/11IujPVv8ys - TBS - Fire from the Sky
You can download Outer Wilds here:
mobiusdigitalgames.com/outer-wilds.html
One of the defining features of Niagara Falls is the "horseshoe" shape, also called a "Cataract". We'll see similar cataracts throughout our journey today.
Potholes Coulee, in the Scablands of eastern Washington, has two very large extinct cataracts. These were formed during the melt-down of the ice sheets during the Younger Dryas (12,900 - 11,600 years ago). As the intense sheet floods raced over the landscape, they carved out the cataracts in just a few weeks.
Speaking of accelerated erosion, we have Canyon Lake Gorge in Texas. Canyon Lake Gorge was formed in 2002, when a storm dropped over 34 inches of rain in just a few days. This caused the dam at Canyon Lake to burst, and sent catastrophic floods down the valley.
Based on the erosion seen at Canyon Lake Gorge, we now know for certain that landscapes can be eroded much faster than mainstream science was willing to admit. This proves that canyons can be formed in days!
We are currently in a calm, minimally erosive phase. This is especially true in the deserts of Utah. The current rate of erosion is one drop of water, one grand of sand at a time. There may be an occasional flash-flood, but the desert landscapes have been pretty well preserved due to the lack of rainfall in the past few thousand years.
However, there are times of accelerated erosion, as our planet shifts from a glacial to interglacial climate. Based on current research, there have been ~20 of these transitions in the past 2.6 million years.
As we ponder this series of events, we realize that there must be a massive influx of energy to the planet. How else would all that ice melt? This is known as the "Energy Paradox". There are a few possible explanations - increased volcanism, increased solar output, change in the earth's orbital inclination, impact events.
Here's my hypothesis:
While the planet is going through the transition from glacial to interglacial, there are mega-storms forming across the world. These mega-storms could stay over one large area for an extended time. This causes severe erosion, like what we saw in Canyon Lake Gorge, but orders-of-magnitude larger.
After the planet stabilizes, the erosion slows down to our present-day rates. This minimal erosion helps to preserve the scars left behind.
The Canyonlands in Utah were mainly formed during these brief, but extreme, storms.
I'm not suggesting that the Canyonlands were formed in one event. More likely, they are the result of the 20+ transitions from glacial to inter-glacial during the last 2.6 million years.
It's possible that all of the sandstone that was washed away ultimately ended up in present-day Mexico, where we can find large tracts of sand dunes. (All that sandstone had to go somewhere, after all)
For more information, check out these videos:
youtu.be/fpeK_IrP1zQ - Randall Carlson - Southwest Erosion
youtu.be/haf_PJSASgE?t=1245 - Randall Carlson - Death Valley
youtu.be/9NuIk0gZMzk - Potholes Coulee
youtu.be/9xJa8a3uaws - Niagara Falls Drone
youtu.be/7mCYP_s52PQ - Canyon Lake Gorge
youtu.be/CZeXK1UiRZ8 - White Rim / Canyonlands
00:00 - Niagara Falls
02:37 - Snoqualmie Falls
04:26 - Iguazu Falls
05:28 - Potholes Coulee
07:06 - Canyon Lake Gorge
08:22 - Upheaval Dome Controversy
09:15 - White Rim Cataracts
13:10 - Corona Arch
14:37 - Goosenecks & Monument Valley
16:12 - Following the Floods
17:12 - Recap
As usual, there is a big controversy regarding the creation of the Carolina Bays. The mainstream opinion usually attributes their creation to a combination of wind and water erosion. Basically, lakes were formed a long time ago, and through the slow process of wind acting on the lake water, the elliptical shape was formed. Similar lakes are found up in Russia and Canada today, near the north pole. These are called "thermokarst lakes". (If you use Google Earth to view them, they are pretty fascinating!)
However, as you study the unique circumstances surrounding the Carolina Bays, the mainstream view does not hold up under scrutiny. Hence, a new theory was proposed, chiefly by Antonio Zamora. He argues that the Carolina Bays were caused by chunks of ice raining down from the atmosphere, after a comet impacted the Laurentide Ice Sheet over the Saginaw Bay area roughly 12,900 years ago.
If a comet were to hit the ice sheet at a low angle, then it could have launched millions of chunks of ice into the atmosphere. Upon re-entry, these ice chunks would have landed all throughout the Southeastern United States. Since they are relatively soft, being made of ice (not rock), they would then create the elliptical craters on the unconsolidated ground, but not on the rocky terrain.
Others have proposed a comet / asteroid exploding in mid-air. The resulting fragments would shower the region and create the elliptical bays.
If the Carolina Bays were created in a catastrophic event, this would help to explain the sudden extinction of the megafauna in North America during the Younger Dryas.
** Be sure to Right Click and "Open in New Tab" for all the links below!
If you'd like to explore the Carolina Bays in LIDAR, you'll need the standalone version of Google Earth:
google.com/earth/download/gep/agree.html?hl=en-GB
Here's the link for the KMZ file to be used in Google Earth:
http://cbaysurvey.cintos.org
** After you've downloaded the KMZ file, launch Google Earth. Go to File - Open... then choose the KMZ file. The Carolina Bays filter should now be active!
Antonio Zamora's YouTube Channel:
youtube.com/c/AntonioZamora-Carolina-Bays
Recommended Videos:
youtu.be/8BqgJUo3QPw - Carolina Bays Liquefaction - Antonio Zamora
youtu.be/wr8mesSiApg - Carolina Bays Timeframe - Antonio Zamora
youtu.be/u9dQEg45Ty0 - Ice Impacts - Antonio Zamora
youtu.be/Q0MsB8pN1uY - Younger Dryas Impact - Antonio Zamora
youtu.be/Q60IHvnzI4w - Carolina Bays Review w/ Randall Carlson
youtu.be/LRmjTtm1ttU - Megafauna Extinction w/ Randall Carlson
youtu.be/UWD4Z4c976s - Overkill Hypothesis
youtu.be/w-U1Nnsxdk8 - Carolina Bays Research Part 1
youtu.be/ISpnWg5txM0 - Carolina Bays Research Part 2
youtu.be/4l2WoBJvUjI - Carolina Bays Research Part 3
Recommended Articles:
http://cintos.org/CarolinaBays/index.html - Enigmatic Carolina Bays
science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/earth/geophysics/carolina-bays.htm - Mainstream Opinion
books.google.com/books?id=uH7_DAAAQBAJ&lpg=PT57&ots=CiJ2SataWr&dq=otto%20muck%20carolina%20bays&pg=PT57&fbclid=IwAR3w_gCi3oNqDLQckEzAshXPw0kGJKZKefLUzQV9_7vY1WhYvK1pTk7Cx2A#v=onepage&q&f=true - Secrets of the Carolina Bays
https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2007AGUSMPP42A..05H/abstract - Evidence for Extraterrestrial Impact
sciencedaily.com/releases/2021/02/210216083102.htm#:~:text=A%20new%20study%20suggests%20that,their%20entrance%20into%20the%20Americas.&text=But%20by%20around%2010%2C000%20years,known%20as%20megafauna%2C%20had%20disappeared. - Climate Change - Megafauna Extinctions Linked
pnas.org/content/117/46/28555 - Overkill and Glacial History
00:00 - Intro
01:18 - Carolina Bays Overview
03:29 - How did they form?
05:01 - When were they created?
07:51 - Megafauna Extinction at Younger Dryas
09:15 - Nebraska Rainwater Basins
10:22 - Outro
You can download StarNet++ V2 here:
sourceforge.net/projects/starnet/files/v2.0
My practice TIFF file is available through Patreon:
patreon.com/peterzelinka
00:00 - Intro
01:41 - Getting Ready
02:11 - Color Noise Removal
03:38 - My Gear
04:30 - Remove Stars
05:03 - StarNet++ V2
06:57 - Cleanup Artifacts
08:45 - High Pass Filter
12:00 - Texture and Clarity
14:08 - Add Stars Back
15:22 - Star Reduction
19:16 - Outro
Here's the link for the USGS National Map Viewer. Remember, you want the "3DEP - Elevation Tinted Hillshade" filter:
(Be sure to right-click and "Open in New Tab" for each link below)
apps.nationalmap.gov/viewer
Randall Carlson YouTube links:
Drumlins:
youtu.be/QKlmuEyBw3Y - Ep. 47 with Jerome Lesemann
youtu.be/NWlyfHtQRgs - Ep. 67 with Jerome Lesemann
youtu.be/30MUCh4s7oE - Ep. 53 Finger Lakes
Back-Floods:
youtu.be/ffUvklVGC4g - Ep. 74 Opposite Flows
youtu.be/lIGBIhOv9xU - Ep. 65 Back-Floods
Ice Dams:
youtu.be/QHF0sFpF4yA - Ep. 72 Glacier Dam Problems
youtu.be/VQq0mzeLKOI - Ep. 71 Pressure & Glacial Dams
youtu.be/3Yd2F0x8ONs - Ep. 70 Immense Ice Dam
youtu.be/QdzOXchh1DU - Ep. 68 Missoula Ice Dam
Glacial Lake Agassiz:
youtu.be/cawrBvT1MHM - Antonio Zamora
Flood videos:
youtu.be/xhUenP-BjZw - Dry Falls Animation
youtu.be/ORJtxkuD62E - Johnson Canyon Flash Flood
youtu.be/IYbrqsLFySY - Ice Flow/Jam Footage
youtu.be/VbaNY0uCx4s - Water Rushes back
Randall Trip Videos:
youtu.be/kImPL2gfnxk - Channeled Scablands / AncientPresence
youtu.be/3AJwlK2ZofY?t=274 - Southwest trip / SpencerVybes
youtu.be/1WsyUhMkcbU - Scablands / SpencerVybes
Websites:
cometresearchgroup.org
scirp.org/journal/paperinformation.aspx?paperid=71732
http://geocosmicrex.com/holocene-mystery/ice-age-floods
phys.org/news/2017-06-collapse-european-ice-sheet-chaos.html
glaciallakemissoula.org/the-big-picture.html
eos.org/features/dont-call-it-a-supervolcano
cosmictusk.com/younger-dryas-impact-hypothesis-bibliography-and-paper-archive
Based on my tests, the new All Sky Polar Alignment procedure is quite accurate, showing only a few arc-minutes of error when compared with the traditional polar alignment process.
To be clear, the mount still needs to be pointed up towards Polaris to start. If you can't see Polaris, then just guess. As long as the mount is roughly pointed up towards Polaris, you should have no trouble using the new feature.
If you find yourself in a situation where you cannot see Polaris, or the Northern sky very well, then this could be the perfect solution.
Alternatively, if you live near the equator and have relied on doing a Drift Alignment, then this new All Sky Align may make your night a lot easier!
In this video I'll show you how to use the LighTrack II. It can be a bit difficult to figure out, even if you already use a star tracker.
You can click the link below to read my full-length review:
peterzelinka.com/blog/2022/1/fornax-lighttrack-ii-review
LighTrack II & Accessories:
ferventastronomy.com/Products/#!/LIGHTRACK-II/c/28890304
Jackery Battery:
jackery.com/products/explorer-240-portable-power-station
12V DC Cable:
amazon.com/SPARKING-2-1mm-Charger-Power-Supply/dp/B0746GPQH3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3CUXJPNPSVV5S&keywords=dc+12v+cable+sparking&qid=1641857682&sprefix=dc+12v+cable+sparkin%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-2
Tripod Hammock:
amazon.com/Vanguard-SB-100-Stone-Bag/dp/B0051OGJQE/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=g64fs&pf_rd_p=29505bbf-38bd-47ef-8224-a5dd0cda2bae&pf_rd_r=XDTX4WD5Z6TB8E3HR9Y3&pd_rd_r=30e7ea79-a977-479f-b9f6-bbad4f865d8b&pd_rd_wg=A8BfR&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m
William Optics Dovetail Plate:
agenaastro.com/william-optics-dual-sided-vixen-arca-swiss-210mm-dovetail-plate-red-m-prc210rd.html
00:00 - Intro
00:57 - Attach dovetail plate to LighTrack
2:07 - Fornax Design
3:25 - Powering the LighTrack
4:48 - Tracking Speeds, Hemisphere, Slew buttons
6:40 - Attach a Ballhead
7:51 - Polar Alignment Basics
8:26 - Polar Scopes
11:28 - Polar Alignment Tips
12:55 - Attaching your Camera
14:28 - Find, Compose, and Focus
17:11 - Laser Pointers
19:04 - Camera Settings
23:16 - Auto-Guiders
23:58 - Final Review
Dithering just moves your camera and telescope very slightly in a random direction between each exposure. This random movement will help to remove distracting noise problems from your final image. Since the stars all need to be re-aligned during stacking, this should smooth out the color mottle splotches and walking noise patterns, leaving you with a noticeably cleaner image.
00:00 - Intro
1:06 - Go-To Setup
5:04 - Focus Telescope
06:16 - Polar Alignment
07:58 - Plate Solve
08:40 - Go-To Heart Nebula
9:35 - Dithering
11:55 - Begin Guiding
13:04 - Camera Settings
14:19 - Dither Test
16:49 - Walking Noise & Color Mottle
18:32 - Dither Comparison
22:00 - Outro
I've used the ASIAir Pro extensively over the past two years, and really enjoyed it. However, it did suffer from a very bad wi-fi range. I could be within a few feet of the ASIAir Pro and still lose reception. Thankfully, the new ASIAir Plus solves this problem! I can still get reception, even with two brick walls between me and the ASIAir Plus.
You can buy the ASIAir Plus directly from your preferred astro retailer, it should officially launch in November.
To learn more about my ASIAir workflow, and how it can make your night a lot easier, check out the courses on my website:
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
00:00 - Intro
00:40 - ASIAir Plus Features
4:30 - Powering the ASIAir Plus
5:38 - Initial Setup (Activation + Firmware Update)
10:07 - ASIAir Plus Settings
15:36 - My Astro Workflow
16:37 - Polar Alignment
18:47 - Plate Solve and Go-To
20:44 - Cool that Camera!
22:02 - Start Guiding
23:42 - Set AutoRun Shooting Schedule
25:47 - Finish Guiding Calibration
27:07 - ASIAir Plus Review
29:27 - Learn More
In order to follow along, you'll want 10 - 20 images of the Milky Way. These should be taken one-after-the-other, so the stars don't move too much between your first and last shot.
First, we use Adobe Bridge to open our RAW images in Camera RAW. From there, we can apply some basic corrections and adjustments to the RAW images. Once the photos look good, we can save them as TIFF files. At that point, we're ready to stack the photos in Sequator. After the images have been stacked together, you can bring the final TIFF into Photoshop and begin the processing.
You can download Sequator here:
sites.google.com/view/sequator
To learn more about astrophotography, check out my Astro Post Processing Course:
peterzelinka.com/astrophotography-post-processing
00:00 - Intro
00:57 - Taking your Photos
1:58 - Basic Edits in Camera RAW
8:57 - Sequator Tutorial
14:20 - Before/After Stack Comparison
17:02 - Photoshop Workflow
22:44 - Outro
Once you've captured your images, you can bring them into an application like Photoshop. Photoshop will easily align the images, and then stack them together to reduce noise and increase detail.
I recommend shooting in RAW format on your camera, whenever possible. The RAW format (in this case DNG), will preserve more details and give you the most flexibility during the editing process. If you only have JPEG files, you can still follow this workflow, it just won't work as well.
00:00 - Intro
01:08 - Open Images
02:11 - Take More Photos to Reduce Grain
04:56 - Save TIFF files
07:51 - Open TIFFs in Photoshop
09:06 - Stack your Photos
11:20 - Recap
13:23 - Save Images
14:36 - Final Words
You can download the application here:
http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/index.html
00:00 - Intro
00:50 - Import Photos
03:33 - Register Photos
09:55 - Choose Reference Frame
12:15 - Stacking Photos
16:58 - Dark Frames
19:33 - Flat / Bias Frames
22:09 - Save Picture
23:25 - Recap
25:06 - DSLR Workflow
32:02 - My Preferred Workflow
39:39 - Quick DSS Recap (TL;DW)
42:34 - Final Comparison
44:09 - Outro
Here's a link for the plugin, if you want to check it out:
prodigitalsoftware.com/StarSpikesPro4.html
You can sign up here for the 30-days free trial: bit.ly/2QSdxhF
New Telescope Live subscribers can also use my affiliate promo code to save 20% off for up to 12 months: PETZELYT
If you already have a Telescope.Live account, use this link to save 20% off an annual subscription:
https://app.telescope.live/accountsettings?promo-code=PETZELYT
If you want to learn more about photo editing, check out my Patreon:
patreon.com/peterzelinka
Finally, check out my Deep Space Course:
peterzelinka.com/deep-space-course
00:00 - Intro
00:59 - Telescope.Live Basics
5:28 - Advanced Features
8:04 - Planetary Photography
8:57 - Quick Stacking Tutorial
11:13 - Create RGB Image in Photoshop
13:54 - Basic Adjustments
18:07 - Fix Hot Pixels
19:47 - Outro
blackirishbooks.com/product/the-war-of-art
To see more of David Kingham's work:
davidkingham.com
Here's Jimmy McIntyre's website:
shutterevolve.com
Finally, here's my website if you want to see more:
peterzelinka.com
Here's a link to the full 30 minute tutorial on the Rosette Nebula:
youtu.be/I0Vq4MyMLUY
00:00 - Intro
00:46 - Begin Processing
02:26 - Selective Color
03:58 - Noise Reduction
04:44 - Star Reduction
05:44 - High Pass Filter
07:06 - More Selective Color
09:33 - Image Complete!
09:48 - Comparison Time
If you have a dedicated astro camera, filters, and auto-guider this workflow will allow you to control everything from your smartphone / tablet! No hand-controller required!
00:00 - Intro
00:25 - Connecting the Cables
05:36 - Balance RA and Dec
07:41 - ASIAir Pro Initial Setup
15:16 - SkySafari Plus
18:14 - Full Workflow
27:10 - Setup Auto-Guider
32:07 - Outro
Kase 82mm Filter:
2filter.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/kase-82mm-magnetic-star-focusing-tool.html
Kase 77mm Filter:
2filter.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/kase-77mm-magnetic-star-focusing-tool.html
Kase 100mm Filter:
2filter.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/kase-100-x-100mm-star-focusing-tool.html
For more information, please read my article here:
peterzelinka.com/blog/2021/3/kase-filters-bahtinov-mask-review
You can read Lonely Speck's Bahtinov Mask tutorial here:
lonelyspeck.com/sharpstar
00:00 - Intro
01:00 - Kase Circular Bahtinov Mask
9:06 - Kase Square Bahtinov Mask
12:24 - Closer Look
17:52 - Final Recommendations
00:00 - Stack FITS in DeepSkyStacker
12:39 - File Organization
13:07 - Photoshop Basics
19:35 - Start Hubble Palette Workflow
23:04 - Fix Color with Selective Color
25:49 - Fix Grain/Color Noise
27:33 - Star Reduction
32:27 - High Pass Filter
35:24 - Dodge the Nebula
00:00 - Intro
00:28 - Dark Frames
2:55 - RA & Dec Coordinates
4:40 - Astrobin Saves the Day!
6:27 - No ST4 Cable for Guiding
7:11 - Electronic Focusers
9:51 - Go To Mounts are Easy!
peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get
If you plan on getting a star tracker, check out my full-length star tracker courses:
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
00:00 - Intro
1:27 - Go-To Mounts
3:14 - MoveShootMove
9:02 - SkyGuider Pro
13:47 - SkyGuider - iPolar
16:01 - Star Adventurer
23:23 - Star Adventurer 2i
24:40 - Auto-Guiders
25:58 - Final Recommendation
28:26 - Star Tracker Courses
I can't wait to put all this great gear to use!
Click the link below to visit Steve's wonderful gallery:
stevechesnut.com
astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software-drivers
For more information, here's my article:
peterzelinka.com/blog/2019/4/auto-guiding-with-the-skyguider-pro
If you want to see how to connect an auto-guider to a DSLR's L-Bracket, watch this video:
youtu.be/ZcxtdD5rQeQ
Here's a link to the ASIAir Pro bundle, which includes the 120MM Mini and 30mm f/4 guide scope that I use:
agenaastro.com/zwo-asiair-pro-wi-fi-camera-controller-kit-with-asi120mm-mini-camera-30mm-f-4-mini-guide-scope-asiair-pro-kit2.html
0:00 - Intro
0:56 - Buying Guide
9:20 - Setup Auto-Guider
13:17 - PHD2 Overview
22:03 - Auto-Guider Workflow
23:01 - Guiding in PHD2
32:10 - PHD2 Recap
33:22 - ASIAir Pro Guiding
38:29 - Outro
Astrobin has a great catalogue of images from all over the world. By using the different search functions, you can find images that were taken with a similar setup to what you have. This will show what's possible (when you finally get a clear night!)
If you want to save 10% off a membership, you can use the code: ZELINKA2021 or click the link below:
astrobin.com/accounts/register/?r=ZELINKA2021
Generally, you want to take a ~4 minute exposure for your foreground, followed by a tracked ~4 minute exposure for the sky. You can always use different settings based on your camera's performance.
Lumenzia link:
gregbenzphotography.com
Astro Post Processing Course:
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
0:00 - Intro
3:53 - Initial Edits
6:26 - Align Layers
9:07 - Lumenzia Overview
13:23 - Refine Layer Mask
22:21 - Verify Mask Looks Good
24:25 - Shooting Tips
drive.google.com/file/d/1fXwOSWykZ0LviNcycG3OUbAE7jttnYN5/view?usp=sharing
In the final video of my Astro Made Easy Course, we'll go through the full post-processing workflow. I use a specialized workflow that's designed for modern DSLR/mirrorless cameras. This tends to give great results most of the time. However, there will be some cases where the more traditional workflow does a better job. For example, if you have an older DSLR that has a lot of sensor problems (banding, amp glow, color noise, etc...) then this workflow may exacerbate those problems. In your case, you'd want to try taking Dark, Flat, and Bias Frames. These calibration frames are designed to help subdue the sensor-related problems.
For more information on processing, check out my Deep Space Course which has full-length tutorials for many different objects:
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
Starry Sky Stacker:
sites.google.com/site/starryskystacker/home
DeepSkyStacker:
http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/index.html
Sequator:
sites.google.com/site/sequatorglobal
00:00 - Intro
1:15 - Initial Edits in Camera RAW
13:40 - Stack Photos
23:21 - Photoshop Intro
25:38 - Levels Adjustment
28:40 - Curves Adjustments
34:49 - Cropping
36:09 - Selective Color
42:27 - Camera RAW Adjustments
46:03 - Fix Gradients
48:42 - Save Final Image
2020 Counterweight Balancing video:
youtu.be/F4QxvZmdavc
For more information on setting up your star tracker, be sure to check out my full-length courses. These go into a lot more detail than I can in this single video. I'll cover different workflows you can use, depending on your skill level, and how to take your star tracker to the next level using an auto-guider.
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
00:00 - Intro
00:35 - Find Shooting Location
03:39 - Polar Scope FAQ
06:16 - Polar Alignment
14:47 - Balance Counterweight
21:27 - Double-Check Polar Alignment
23:06 - Finding your Object
30:19 - Camera Settings
36:25 - Recap
peterzelinka.com/blog/2019/12/pairing-a-camera-with-a-telescope-/-lens
Stellarium:
http://stellarium.org
The Photographer's Ephemeris:
photoephemeris.com
Light Pollution Map:
lightpollutionmap.info
Telescopius:
telescopius.com
00:00 - Stellarium
09:33 - Light Pollution Map
14:36 - The Photographer's Ephemeris
17:29 - Telescopius
Which Star Tracker Should I Get:
peterzelinka.com/blog/2018/8/which-star-tracker-should-i-get
Light Pollution Filter Review:
peterzelinka.com/blog/2019/8/light-pollution-filters-for-astrophotography
Choosing a Camera/Lens:
peterzelinka.com/blog/2019/12/pairing-a-camera-with-a-telescope-/-lens
*Camera Gear*
Nikon D780:
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1538572-REG/nikon_d780_dslr_camera.html
Canon EOS R:
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1433710-REG/canon_eos_r_mirrorless_digital.html
SkyGuider Pro Star Tracker:
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1332922-REG/ioptron_3550_skyguider_pro_camera_mount.html
Star Adventurer Star Tracker:
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1604032-REG/sky_watcher_s20512_star_adventurer_pro_pack.html?sts=pi&pim=Y
Vello Shutterboss II Remote:
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/840100-REG/Vello_rc_n2ii_Shutterboss_Version_II_Timer.html
Feisol CT-3442 Tripod:
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/848831-REG/FEISOL_CT_3442_Tournament_CT_3442_Rapid_Tripod.html?sts=pi&pim=Y
Adobe Photoshop:
adobe.com/creativecloud/photography.html
0:00 Intro
1:17 Choose your Camera
9:14 Choose a Lens / Telescope
13:10 Camera Sensor Size and Focal Length
15:26 Choose a Star Tracker / Mount
20:33 Tripods
23:50 Light Pollution Filters
27:38 Post Processing Software
To learn more about astrophotography, check out my tutorials:
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
For more information, check out my tutorials on my website:
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
For more information, be sure to check out my tutorials:
peterzelinka.com/tutorials
Arca Swiss Clamp:
amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminium-Compatible-Wimberley-Manfrotto/dp/B00KYEO70Q/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/144-7201223-2789728?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KYEO70Q&pd_rd_r=64d5b888-caa7-4880-81c6-dc9fb42a3e36&pd_rd_w=M6SMG&pd_rd_wg=A2zCb&pf_rd_p=ce6c479b-ef53-49a6-845b-bbbf35c28dd3&pf_rd_r=Y08R0QW599VC9TAKBW4V&psc=1&refRID=Y08R0QW599VC9TAKBW4V
L Bracket:
kirkphoto.com/camera-mounting.html
Huskie Hex Key Set:
homedepot.com/p/Husky-SAE-Metric-Folding-Hex-Key-Set-With-Bonus-Torx-Set-3-Piece-HFHK3PCSET/205300307
ZWO 30mm f/4 Guide Scope:
agenaastro.com/zwo-30-f-4-mini-guide-scope-for-asi-cameras-31020.html
ZWO ASI 120MM Mini Auto-Guider:
agenaastro.com/zwo-asi120mm-mini-cmos-monochrome-astronomy-imaging-camera.html


