TLDW #13 - Mountain Kotanto natural urushi lacquering Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2026-09-23 | TLDW #13 - Mountain Kotanto natural urushi lacquering
A Canadian Media Visit to the Forge Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2021-06-23 | Here are some excerpts of my segment from Soul of Steel which includes footage from the forge as well as an interview. Thanks to Rolfe and the Todd who came all the way out to the forest and did a great job of sharing the process and vibe of the workshop with folks in Calgary.Read more about the visit here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/08/a-canadian-media-visit-to-the-forge
The Blacksmith | Tools for Satoyama | by Jordan Wende Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2021-02-24 | Reclaimed antique steel is forged into a kotanto as part of the Satoyama Project. http://islandblacksmith.caDirected, Photographed, and Edited by Jordan Wende: instagram.com/jordanwendePhoto essay: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2020/07/photo-essay-forging-a-knifeFinished kotanto: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2021/02/forest-kotanto-with-antique-fittingsKnife in the intro: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2020/07/kominka-forest-kotanto
Preparing and Loading the Charcoal Making Kiln Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2020-08-26 | Drying the earthen kiln insulation, preparing the floor, and loading kiln in preparation for making a batch of charcoal. The first fire is relatively small and is intended to dry out some of the moisture in the clay/earth around the kiln remaining after construction and before winter. After cooling and cleaning it out, a "floor" is created above the steel floor slats using thin boards and brown charcoal from previous charcoal runs. Then the wood (mostly Pine) is split and stacked vertically from back to front leaving only a small airspace at the top. The front will be filled with kindling and bark and then the opening closed up and mostly sealed before lighting. Controlling the air intake slows down the burn and prevents loss/crumbling/cracking of charcoal wood. the kiln: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/11/charcoal-kiln-v-4-0making charcoal: http://islandblacksmith.ca/how-charcoal-is-made
TLDW #27 - Forging a Saya Nomi (鞘鑿, scabbard chisel) - from reclaimed farm equipment (harrow tooth) Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2020-02-01 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of the forge. saya-nomi (scabbard chisel) forged from reclaimed carbon steel harrow tooth, magnolia handle. more on carving saya (scabbards): http://islandblacksmith.ca/process/carving-saya-scabbardSaya-nomi (鞘鑿) are a type of Japanese chisel with several unique features designed for carving the inside of a wooden scabbard. Hand forged from a reclaimed harrow tooth, the elongated neck is slightly curved for clearance and the bottom and side corners are slightly rounded to facilitate cutting inside a concave surface without leaving corner marks. A scrap of magnolia makes a clean, simple handle for use as a push chisel. knife making process:http://islandblacksmith.ca/processworkshop tour: http://islandblacksmith.ca/forge
TLDW #26 - Traditional Yaki-Ire, Hardening a Tanto Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2020-01-07 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of the forge. Traditional clay/charcoal/water yaki-ire, differential hardening a classical tanto style kotanto blade forged from reclaimed carbon steel. more on yaki-ire...Process of Clay Tempering a Tanto Bladehttp://islandblacksmith.ca/process/yaki-ire-clay-temperingOnce the steel is shaped as much as possible in its softer state, it is coated with a thin layer of clay along the edge and a thicker layer on the body and spine. During the hardening process, the split second difference in cooling time caused by the clay layer creates two different hardness areas in the same piece of steel. The edge cools faster and forms a very hard steel structure called martensite while the body cools slower and forms a very tough steel structure made of ferrite and pearlite. The boundary between these two areas is called hamon and is commonly seen as a frosted wavy line down the length of a polished sword blade.The clay is a mixture of approximately thirds of natural clay, crushed charcoal, and polishing stone powder. Each smith has their own recipe but the basics are the same...natural clay: to make it stick, polishing stone powder: to keep it from shrinking and cracking when it dries, and charcoal powder: to keep it from cracking when it is heated...knowing these properties allows a smith to make adjustments as needed. The spine and body of the blade are coated with a thin layer of the clay mixture to insulate and slow down the cooling while the edge and tip are coated in a very thin slip layer which actually cools faster than bare steel and protects from oxidation while heating. When the clay is fully dry, a charcoal fire is used to heat the steel slowly and evenly, taking care not to overheat any part of it and working in the dark for accurate colour viewing. First the spine is heated to bring the whole blade to just below temperature, and then it is flipped over to focus heat on the edge. When the entire edge is at the correct temperature, it is plunged into a hot water bath, edge down, and held until cool (yaki-ire). The tang is not heated or hardened and can be drilled later for the mekugi-ana. The hardness is checked with a file and the process repeated if necessary. After hardening, the clay is removed and the steel is heated slightly again to remove some of the internal stresses (yaki-modoshi). Once this process is finished, and if the steel survives, the blade is ready for Togi, shaping and hand polishing using waterstones.http://islandblacksmith.ca/process
TLDW #25 - First Lighting of the Forge & Antique Habaki Utsushi Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-11-07 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Watch the intro of lighting the forge here: youtu.be/jr4p5DCy4M0 ***more info below...First lighting of the newly rebuilt charcoal forge in the island kajiba, more info on the project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/tag/island-forge ...followed by stamping the tang and then hand forging and filing a classical tanto style habaki, silver soldered in the charcoal forge and closely based on an antique Edo period habaki. Polishing and patinating will be done after the saya has been carved.The bending of the jacket is missing as the camera battery had died, that stage is shown in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=gyCsxnXKi0oWatch the machigane area and you can see the solder begin to melt and flow around 26:52 until it is pulled out to stop the heating. The fuigo allows very precise air mix and heat control. When soldering habaki this way, some points are:ensuring the fit is very tight (solder does not fill gaps),cleaning the metal surfaces well to remove oxide and contaminants, using a flux to prevent oxidation while heating (in this case borax and water),forming a charcoal "oven" away from the direct air blast,controlling the airflow for a reducing environment, heating just to the flow temperature,removing from the heat immediately,allowing to slowly cool in air next to the coals,pickling off any remaining flux in vinegar before fitting to the blade.Note that silver solder (more accurately known as silver brazing or silver welding) is not at all related to electronics or plumbing solder, it is made from mostly silver and copper and requires far more heat and a different flux. In this technique the filler material actually forms a new alloy with the parent metals (similar to welding). It is more difficult to achieve but the results are very different and far stronger than lead or tin based solder joints.The wire that binds the parts together, provides tension while heating, and forms the stand is a scrap piece of rusted steel wire, the oxide scale or rust helps prevent the solder from sticking and making it one with the habaki.Machigane info: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2014/10/classical-tanto-construction-habaki-%25E3%2581%25AE-machiganeMaking habaki: http://islandblacksmith.ca/process/making-habakiTanto geometry: http://islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-geometrylearn more about the historical knifemaking process: http://islandblacksmith.ca/process
SOTW #21 - First Lighting of the Forge Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-10-13 | first lighting of the newly rebuilt charcoal forge in the island kajiba, more info on the project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/tag/island-forge watch the longer edit of making a habaki utsushi here: youtu.be/peCVQa4N93Amore about building charcoal forges and fuigo here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQL
SOTW #20 - Assembling the Furusato Tanto (aikuchi w/ireko saya) Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-08-26 | Serious students of the forge can watch the full process version here: youtu.be/oH5B7n7NtbEOne of the most technical challenges of this project was creating the ireko saya (入れ子鞘, nesting scabbard) lining within the tight constraints offered by the original block of wood. A refined detail that is normally hidden from view, the ireko saya protects the blade from the hardwood. A focal point for the koshirae is the unique antler crown kurikata which is reminiscent of a mushroom contrasting against the dark wood of a tree.Furusato (故郷, pronounced “foo-roo-sah-toe”) means home place or hometown and contains the ideas of being rooted or grounded wherever one may sojourn, and a confidence and longing for return. This tanto has a simple and elegant form with a natural and humble mounting that reflects the rustic satoyama lifestyle and suits the aesthetics of the way of tea.The wood was a discarded scrap that was just barely large enough for this project and comes from the Congo/Zaire. The block of wood sat for several years waiting for the right blade to make the best and most use of it. This precious dark chocolate coloured hardwood is locally called Tshikalakala or Dikela, meaning turn around or circle back.Materials for the wabisabi aikuchi style koshirae mounting include Tshikalakala (Wenge) wood for the kataki tsuka and saya, Hounoki (Japanese Magnolia) wood and cow horn for the ireko saya, copper bus bar for the habaki, buffalo horn for the mekugi, and pieces of shed antler for the kurikata and tsunakuchi. The tsuka and saya are finished in a thin layer of kijiro fukiurushi (wiped lacquer) made from natural source urushi lacquer. "When difficulties come, I remember my home place…Someday I shall fulfill my task. And, then, return to my home place. To the green mountains and clear rivers of my home." -- Furusato, Takano TatsuyukiMore about this project: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/08/furusato-tanto
TLDW #24 - Making an Ireko (nesting) Saya - Furusato Tanto Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-08-26 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Watch the overview edit here: youtu.be/gr8xqmzM5iMOne of the most technical challenges of this project was creating the ireko saya (入れ子鞘, nesting scabbard) lining within the tight constraints offered by the original block of wood. A refined detail that is normally hidden from view, the ireko saya protects the blade from the hardwood. A focal point for the koshirae is the unique antler crown kurikata which is reminiscent of a mushroom contrasting against the dark wood of a tree.Furusato (故郷, pronounced “foo-roo-sah-toe”) means home place or hometown and contains the ideas of being rooted or grounded wherever one may sojourn, and a confidence and longing for return. This tanto has a simple and elegant form with a natural and humble mounting that reflects the rustic satoyama lifestyle and suits the aesthetics of the way of tea.The wood was a discarded scrap that was just barely large enough for this project and comes from the Congo/Zaire. The block of wood sat for several years waiting for the right blade to make the best and most use of it. This precious dark chocolate coloured hardwood is locally called Tshikalakala or Dikela, meaning turn around or circle back.Materials for the wabisabi aikuchi style koshirae mounting include Tshikalakala (Wenge) wood for the kataki tsuka and saya, Hounoki (Japanese Magnolia) wood and cow horn for the ireko saya, copper bus bar for the habaki, buffalo horn for the mekugi, and pieces of shed antler for the kurikata and tsunakuchi. The tsuka and saya are finished in a thin layer of kijiro fukiurushi (wiped lacquer) made from natural source urushi lacquer. "When difficulties come, I remember my home place…Someday I shall fulfill my task. And, then, return to my home place. To the green mountains and clear rivers of my home." -- Furusato, Takano TatsuyukiMore about this project: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/08/furusato-tanto
SOTW #19 - Assembling the Inome Tanto Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-08-10 | Making-of and photos here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/07/inome-tantoThe inome (pronounced “ee-no-may”, 猪の目, eye of the boar) name comes from the pierced heart-shape designs on the decorative o-seppa (washers) on either side of the tsuba (handguard). This lovely motif is ubiquitous in Japan, seen often in architecture, furniture, and sword mountings. In this context, the inome symbol conveys the idea of the always forward-moving wild boar of Japan’s forests and mountains, never giving up or retreating.This tanto was forged from an antique horse-drawn carriage spring in 2016, was used at several demos as an example of the forged surface as it comes out of the fire, made a cameo in a short film in 2017 as one of the filing stages, was finished with geometry inspired by a visit to Japan in 2018, and is the first of my blades to incorporate antique sword parts in its mounting (there are 4, the rest is newly crafted for this piece).The blade began as a reclaimed carriage spring and was hand forged in a charcoal fire, smoothed with files and a sen scraper, differentially hardened using traditional water quench yaki-ire, and polished by hand with natural Japanese water stones. This tanto consists of ten separate components that began as twenty-two individual pieces, crafted and finished entirely with hand tools and traditional techniques.Materials for the chisagatana style koshirae mounting include Japanese hounoki wood for the handle and scabbard, copper bus bar for the habaki, reclaimed brass doorplate for a seppa, buffalo horn for the mekugi and kurikata, and an iron spike salvaged from thirty feet under the Pacific for the tsuba. The centerpiece of the mounting comes from an outdoor antique market in Kyoto, a gold-accented Edo-era fuchi made from nanako-ji (魚子地, fish roe) textured shakudo (a traditional alloy of gold, silver, and copper). The tsuba sits between two Showa-era zouheitou (officer’s sword) o-seppa with pierced inome (猪の目, eye of the boar) motifs. The saya is finished in black sabi-nuri (rust texture) style ishime-ji (stone surface) made from natural source urushi lacquer and ground tea leaves, and the koiguchi band is also antique.Blade has a hira-zukuri profile, suguha hamon with artifact on the omote, an iori mune, and an ubuha (unsharpened portion near the hamachi). The blade is 8.75″ long, overall length is just under 13.5″, and the overall length of the koshirae is just over 15″. Specifications長さ/刃長 Nagasa: 7 sun 3 bu 5 rin (222mm)元幅 Motohaba: 9 bu (27mm)重ね/元重 Motokasane: 2 bu 3 rin (7mm)反り Sori: uchizori中心/茎 Nakago: 3 sun 6 bu (109mm)柄長 Tsuka: 3 sun 2 bu 5 rin (93mm)拵全長 Koshirae: 12 sun 6 bu (382mm)形 Katachi: hira-zukuri, iori-mune刃文 Hamon: suguha, with ubuha帽子/鋩子 Boshi: ko-maru中心/茎 Nakago: futsu, kuri-jiri, one mekugi-ana, signed near the tip銘 Mei: hot stamped katabami-ken kamon拵 Koshirae: chisagatana, issaku (with the addition of four antique parts)Material: Reclaimed carriage spring steel, Edo-period gold and shakudo nanako fuchi, antique brass koiguchi and Showa-era zouheitou o-seppa, ocean-salvaged iron spike, copper bus bar, brass doorplate, buffalo horn, Hounoki, leather, natural urushi and tea leaves, antique silk cord
Unboxing precision cut tanto kata from soulsmithing.com Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-07-11 | A look at some precision cut steel tanto kata based on historical japanese swords from 1200s-1500s...order a set of kata here: http://soulsmithing.com/product-category/kataA kata is a pattern or form used for appreciation, study, or for reference when creating an utsushi blade. The exercise of accurately making kata based on the work of historical smiths is an excellent way to train the eyes, mind, and body to create proper tanto forms. The most important aspect of making kata is to work carefully to be as true to the original lines as possible.Apprentices were asked to make as many kata as they could: these are eventually used for sword making, can be kept for a lifetime for reference and study, and their very making is a good opportunity for practice.Learn about making your own here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/07/making-tanto-kata
TLDW #23 - Replacing the Higuchi (tuyere) in the new forge Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-07-05 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Installing/repairing the higuchi (tuyere) in a traditional brick construction Japanese swordsmith forge. The fire clay is a historical brasque recipe consisting of 6:2 charcoal powder/fines to natural clay, mixed with just enough water to stick together well. Tuyere is formed from the same clay, the forge must be allowed to dry fully before lighting or steam will crack the clay. More of the forge building project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/tag/island-forge and more forge projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQL
TLDW #22 - Repair broken Natural Waterstone with Urushi Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-06-30 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Carving a cypress base and repairing a broken natural Japanese waterstone using urushi lacquer. The stone is a Kumamoto binsui-do, approximately #700, from Monotaro in Japan. Urushi is from Watanabe~san in Tokyo: http://urushi-watanabe.net
SOTW #18 - Lets just take a moment, shall we? Take it. Taken. Done. Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2019-04-17 | Can we just take a moment? featuring stones, moss, rain, bamboo, birds, cypress, and a frog...photos of the island forge kajiba (鍛冶場, forge building) project here: Part 1 – Foundation http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/02/island-forge-part-1-foundationPart 2 – Timber Frame http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/02/island-forge-part-2-timber-framePart 3 – Roof http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/02/island-forge-part-3-roofPart 4 – Yakisugi http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/03/island-forge-part-4-yakisugiPart 5 – Tsuchikabe http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/04/island-forge-part-5-tsuchikabe...three days ago this garden was just a muddy thistle patch...back to work, time is very short!
3 minute forge and 5 minute forge making...bring your own bellows! diy Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-11-01 | Building two examples of quick and simple diy sideblast charcoal forges with found and reclaimed materials to demonstrate that lack of equipment and materials should not be a major obstacle. See more in-depth forge builds on the bladesmith forge building playlist: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLWays to improve these concepts include: mixing copious amounts of chopped straw or charcoal powder into the clay to make it refractory, using high temperature kiln bricks, making the walls higher and longer, using the clay to narrow the tuyere to about 1sun/3cm right where it enters at the bottom side of the forge, putting a barrier up to protect the fuigo (and allowing a shorter pipe), allowing the clay to dry before lighting the forge, etc...Note that if the pipe is galvanized best fit with another section of non-galvanized or at least file off the last 2 inches of zinc in case your tuyere accidentally gets heated to an orange yellow heat and burns off the zinc causing toxic fumes... Full traditional swordsmith forge build documentation here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSmaller tanto forge build here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/04/building-a-charcoal-tanto-forgeFuigo box bellows: youtube.com/watch?v=3Ecetg1B7y4&t=0s&index=16&list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQL
SOTW #17 - Glass Top Fuigo - Whats going on in there? Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-09-07 | A look at the inside operation of a prototype fuigo (鞴) box bellows...two intake valves, two manifold valves, one piston, one output, double action...more about fuigo here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/06/why-you-need-a-swordsmiths-fuigo-box-bellowsvalves: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/11/making-valves-for-fuigo-box-bellowsfuigo archive: http://islandblacksmith.ca/tag/fuigo
温故知新 | Study the Old to Know the New | by Trevor Komori Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-08-29 | In a forge on Vancouver Island, reclaimed steel is turned into tanto. http://islandblacksmith.caDirected, Photographed, and Edited by Trevor Komori: http://trevorkomori.comLocation Sound: Sean BrouwerB Camera Operator: Liam LeylandMusic Composed by Kurtis So: http://kurtisso.comProduction Assistants: Vivian Hu & Judy Zhengbehind the scenes: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/08/komorisan-back-in-the-forgestill images: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2018/08/short-film-release-%E6%B8%A9%E6%95%85%E7%9F%A5%E6%96%B0photos and process of making this tanto: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/08/on-ko-chi-shin-tanto
Making a Bamboo Scoop for Water Forging (竹の水差し) Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-05-26 | Simple technology for pouring water on the anvil, made from a piece of bamboo. Forging with a thin film of water on the anvil and hammer prevents forge scale or oxide from being hammered into the surface of the steel. The hot steel instantly vaporizes the water and the resulting steam explosion blows the scale off of the work, keeping it clean as it is worked. This type of bamboo scoop (take no mizusashi) is a traditional style tool for evenly applying water to the surface of the anvil or the hot steel.Unlike steel, forge scale does not move or compress at forging temperatures. If a piece of scale is hammered into the surface of a blade it creates a depression and the entire surface of the blade will have to be filed down to remove the scale and pitting later. Water forging is one way to keep the blade clean and smooth and reduce work and waste during finishing and polishing. Swordsmiths usually keep a bucket of water right next to the anvil to supply water to the surface and to periodically dip the hammer into while working.This is about the quickest and most useful traditional tool for controlled application of water, taking only minutes to create from natural materials. The best starting point is structural/timber bamboo that is about two inches inside diameter, is not cracked, and has at least one or two nodes or joints in it. read more about the process: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/07/making-a-bamboo-water-scoop-for-water-forging
SOTW #16 - Differential Hardening Sunnobi Tanto - yakiire with water, charcoal, clay Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-03-03 | Yakiire - Differential hardening a classical style sunnobi tanto blade forged from century-old reclaimed shear steel. Sunnobi tanto are larger than ordinary tanto (nagasa above 1shaku) and may have sori similar to ko-wakizashi. see the whole process of forging this tanto here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2018/03/utsushi-study-of-a-sunnobi-tanto1. Using approximately a 1:1:1 mixture of natural clay, polishing stone powder and ground charcoal to mask the back of a hand forged blade about 1-1.5mm thick to slow down the cooling rate.2. Brushing on a thin slip layer with extra charcoal added along the exposed edge to speed up the cooling rate and protect from carbon loss. 3. Carefully heating in a charcoal forge supplied by air from a fuigo box bellows until the edge reaches critical temperature. 4. Plunging edge-first into cold rainwater to cool the blade quickly and harden the edge while leaving the rest tough and resilient. 5. Testing for successful hardening with a file and then removing the clay with a mild steel scraper.6. Slightly reheating the blade over the flames to temper the edge.7. Test polishing on a coarse Japanese waterstone to check the hamon.more about the process: http://islandblacksmith.ca/processmore about yaki-ire: http://islandblacksmith.ca/process/yaki-ire-clay-tempering
TLDW #21 - Making a Tanto Habaki with simple tools Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-02-18 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Watch the overview edit here: youtu.be/LS8T71SoqykMaking a classical tanto style habaki forged from reclaimed copper, silver soldering in the charcoal forge.Material is scrap copper from an electrical bus bar, shape is forged and bent, soldering done with hard silver solder in the charcoal forge with fuigo, finish work done with files and rasps.Machigane info: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2014/10/classical-tanto-construction-habaki-%E3%81%AE-machiganeSee the finished tanto and process here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/08/furusato-tanto
TimeWarp #10 - Forging Habaki for a Tanto Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-02-18 | Making a classical tanto style habaki forged from reclaimed copper, silver soldering in the charcoal forge, hand filing. (4x) Finished tanto here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/08/furusato-tantoSerious students of the forge can watch the full process here: youtu.be/gyCsxnXKi0oMaterial is scrap copper from an electrical bus bar, shape is forged and bent, soldering done with hard silver solder in the charcoal forge with fuigo, finish work done with files and rasps.More about the process here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/processMachigane info: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2014/10/classical-tanto-construction-habaki-%E3%81%AE-machigane
Blacksmith Forging Plastic? DIY snowskate from recycled decking material Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-01-26 | Hand forging, upsetting, bending, and filing recycled synthetic decking board to create a diy snowskate in projectskates style. Quick test run at the end (13:36). Tips for diy'ers:test the material for suitability first keep the heat low and evenuse good ventilation and appropriate safety precautionsbottom should be smooth and flattop can have some concavebottom edges should be fairly sharp, square, and slanted as a snowboardto bend the tail, heat and bend a narrow section (like a skateboard)to bend the nose, heat and bend a wider section (like a snowboard)detune the tip and tail edges to just past the corners as with a snowboardtop sheet for grip is eva foam (as is used for shoe insoles)wax like a snowboardride like a skimboardweight is just right, flexibility and strength are not quite like wood and the pop is slightly slower, but at lower temperatures the stiffness can be enough to even boardslide......thanks to fi for help with the session camera work!
TLDW #20 - Futokorogatana Kaiken Tanto Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2018-01-14 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. Futokorogatana (懐刀) is translated as “clothing fold sword” and describes a type of tanto mounting meant to be carried in the kimono sleeve or fold. Also known as kaiken, this humble style of hidden mounting is usually unadorned with a smooth profile and lacquer finish. This knife would historically be carried for last chance survival situations.The steel comes from a reclaimed horse-drawn carriage spring, the wood is hounoki (Japanese Magnolia), and the finish is natural urushi lacquer with ground crimson lake stone pigment.more photos and info: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/08/process-making-a-futokorogatana
Clay & Water Quench Hamon on 100 year old carbon steel - Traditional Yaki-ire Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-12-08 | The immersive experience of being in the darkened workshop during a traditional clay and water quench using a charcoal forge. A hamon is created on a tanto using a 1mm thick layer of roughly 1:1:1 natural clay, charcoal powder, and polishing stone powder. The blade is about 29cm long (nagasa), 2.3cm wide (motohaba) and 6mm thick (motokasane). The final shot shows the rough kajitogi polish to check the hamon placement using a very coarse waterstone (torajirushi 80#, lobstercarbon 120#).first heat slowly and carefully,then the quench,check edge hardness with a file, remove the clay with a mild steel scraper,then temper lightly over the flames,and test polish to check the hamon.watch this type of blade being forged: youtube.com/watch?v=y7fROs7i8-Usee where the raw materials come from:youtube.com/watch?v=Ss8mUmvfWfAlearn more about the process: http://islandblacksmith.ca/process
TLDW #19 - Bladesmithing at the Museum Swordsmith Forge Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-07-28 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. The sunobe stage is at 4x speed as the hammering was fairly inaccurate due to a blister on my palm from the seam of the yellow gloves...starting material was a harrow tooth, finished blade is hirazukuri, iori mune, 140mm / 5.5" nagasa, 6.5mm motokasane...more info below...0:201. the harrow tooth is first forged into a sunobe, a blade preform, that has a rectangular cross section with the proper thickness and distal tapers for the spine and tang as well as a small notch where the mune machi will be...(dead battery zone)2. then the iori mune, the peaked spine, is forged...3:003. then the bevels are forged in, working from the machi towards the tip and then back down again, followed by the forging of the tang in this case...during the beveling stage the spine tends to curve upwards so a stump between the anvil and forge is used to make downwards adjustments in advance from time to time, the wood will not mar the peak of the spine...also during this stage water on the anvil keeps the scale from building up and being forged into the surface of the steel...7:194. the nakago (tang) is also shaped and beveled using the same techniques as the blade...9:115. some final planishing, adjustments, and straightening along with a hot stamp "signature" on the tang bring the hizukuri stage to a close...the finish will be tsuchime (hammer texture) so there was no filing/polishing before yaki-ire...10:166. yaki-ire (quenching/hardening) was done at my own forge for the dim and consistent light conditions, allowing the colour to be seen more accurately...11:107. yaki-modoshi (tempering) is a slight reheating to remove some of the stress and increase toughness after hardening... http://islandblacksmith.ca/process
TLDW #18 - Aikuchi Tanto Koshirae - Making the Fittings Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-07-21 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of historical knifemaking. The wood is hounoki,The fuchi and koiguchi are from a reclaimed buffalo horn souvenir, the kurikata is from a reclaimed horn button, the wrapping is rawhide samegawa, the mekugi is copper and silver...All of the parts are first shaped and fit, then the samegawa is wet formed to the handle contours, dried, and then attached with sokui (rice paste glue)...after the scabbard and handle are lacquered, the horn parts will be polished and attached with sokui as well...the mekugi cap is soldered on with hard silver solder in the charcoal forge...The previous stage is carving the outside of the handle and scabbard: youtu.be/4U9_vp-EpuQAnd before that, carving the inside of the handle and scabbard: youtu.be/ZMLh7ocI9b4finished work is here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/08/aikuchi-tanto-koshiraehttp://islandblacksmith.ca/process
TLDW #17 - Aikuchi Tanto Koshirae - Carving the Tsuka & Saya Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-07-14 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of historical knifemaking. The wood is hounoki, carve carefully and check often! Order of operations below...In this video the tsuka is carved first, starting with the fuchi end and then the kashira area, carving the profile outlines and then removing the material in between before carving the final shape and sculpting the details. The saya is next, first dimensioning the blank is to approximate size and then profiling the koiguchi and then the kojiri, removing the material and carving as close as possible to the final shape using kanna and kiridashi. Finally any remaining high points in the curves are smoothed with a fine rasp.The previous stage is carving the inside of the handle and scabbard: youtu.be/ZMLh7ocI9b4The next stage is making the fittings: youtu.be/BLzKldYVHMsfinished work is here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/08/aikuchi-tanto-koshiraehttp://islandblacksmith.ca/process
TLDW #16 - Aikuchi Tanto Koshirae - Carving the Inside Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-07-03 | **WARNING: This is the longer process version intended for serious students of knifemaking. The first half is almost real time, the repeat steps edited out during the second half. The wood is hounoki, carve carefully and check often! Order of operations below...In this video the tsuka is carved first, starting with the omote side and then the ura, carving each half from the mune to the ha. The saya is next, starting with the omote and then the ura, each half beginning with the fitting of the blade (from mune towards the ha) and then the fitting of the habaki area (koiguchi). Finally the halves are glued together with rice paste glue, wrapped with leather cord, and wedged tightly to dry overnight.1. Tsuka - handle a. Omote - "public side" i. Mune - spine ii. Ha - edge b. Ura - "private side" i. Mune ii. Ha2. Saya - scabbard a. Omote i. Mune ii. Ha iii. Habaki - koiguchi area b. Ura i. Mune ii. Ha iii. Habaki3. Sokui - glue with rice paste, wrap and wedge tight overnightThe next stage is carving the outside of the handle and scabbard: youtu.be/4U9_vp-EpuQAnd after that, making the fittings: youtu.be/BLzKldYVHMsfinished work is here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/08/aikuchi-tanto-koshiraehttp://islandblacksmith.ca/process
Making a Handle for a Japanese Swordsmithing Hammer - no wedges Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-06-30 | Read more about installing Japanese style hammer handles here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/06/making-handle-japanese-swordsmith-hammerMore traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction and related projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLTraditional Japanese swordsmithing hammers have rectangular eyes with no taper. The handles are not wedged but are held in place by a compression fit involving careful shaping, hand forged wood, and soaking in water.The wood is shaped a couple of mm oversized, compressed by hammering, and then driven through the eye. When the wood is soaked in water (or in this case 100% pure tung oil), the cells swell back to their normal size and lock the head securely on the handle.Most of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. This hammer handle was shaped from a piece of the Green Ash tree that grew through my first blacksmith shop lean-to. I managed to get a piece of a large branch when the trees were removed by the property owner and have made a couple of handles from it so far.
Making Fire with Bamboo - museum forge first lighting Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-06-23 | Read more about the museum project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee the building of the forge here: youtube.com/watch?v=X6yrlHyBBU4&index=3&list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLOn the occasion of the first lighting of the museum project forge, I decided to employ a Japanese bushcraft technique and use the heat of friction between two bamboo sticks as the source of ignition. Getting the bamboo to produce smoke is relatively easy, but it still takes some good physical effort, patience, and some careful nurturing to take it all the way to the point of ignition.The first night turned out to be quite an event as there were three forges and six blacksmiths/strikers operating in the museum workshop. Thanks to Tim of Reforged Ironworks, and Josh for their energy and charcoal chopping to get the forge up and running, and their assistance swinging the big sledges to finish drifting and shaping the smaller hand hammers as the first projects in the charcoal forge. Watch a more detailed demonstration of lighting fire with bamboo: youtube.com/watch?v=ycIBCWTyzuo
Sumi-kiri - chopping charcoal for bladesmithing Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-06-16 | Read more about the museum project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more charcoal making videos here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwAi0VcrZt-tyGIsrOUrzhyjA sample of the sumi-kiri process; charcoal chopping, screening, and sorting techniques, and may offer some useful details for astute observers.**Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are fueled by softwood charcoal which is first chopped, screened, and sorted into several sizes for different stages of the forging process. The charcoal is chopped and then processed through four sizes of screen, the largest is for tanren, the second for hizukuri (I tend to use the largest for hizukuri as well and keep the second size mainly for yaki-ire), the third size isn't highly useful but may be crushed into fines or saved for tatara, the fourth is the fines for lining the bottom of the forge, and the remainder is dust for mixing into yaki-ire clay or for brasque refractory. Measurements for the screen sizes are given in sun-shaku and the type of charcoal they keep in is listed rather than what they allow to pass through. 3.03022 cm= 0.1 shaku（尺）= 1 sun（寸）= 10 bu（分）= 100 rin（厘）**Three things to note, 1. after setting up, i moved the camera orientation 180 degrees and rather than move all of the charcoal i moved only the chair to the opposite side, but for efficiency it is a good idea to have the charcoal at the left side within reach of the non-chopping hand...2. rather than chopping directly into a screen as i do, the normal procedure is to chop onto the tarp and then rake most of the largest charcoal off the top by hand before screening the remaining pile (youtu.be/3DdXdxSb3vE)...3. also, some of this charcoal is quite soft having been heated too quickly in the kiln or overcooked so it looks more crumbly than it should.
Making 篩 for charcoal screening - from scrap wood and mesh Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-06-09 | Read more about the museum project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLTraditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are fueled by softwood charcoal which is first chopped, screened, and sorted into several sizes for different stages of the forging process. Most of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. This rough but functional d.i.y. seive is very useful for the final stage of sumi-kiri.The "furui" (篩) or sieve is used to separate different sizes of charcoal during the sumi-kiri process. This one is the smallest mesh of the four, made from window screen, and saves the fines for the charcoal bed and allows the powder to fall through.
Making 箕 for charcoal sorting - from a reclaimed trash can Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-06-02 | Read more about the museum project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLMost of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. This rusted-out garbage can is used as the sheet stock for a rough but functional d.i.y. container in the shape of a winnowing basket.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are fueled by softwood charcoal which is first chopped, screened, and sorted into several sizes for different stages of the forging process. The "mi" (箕) is used to store and move charcoal between screens during the sumi-kiri process.
Soulsmithing: adventures in hitech/lotech part 6 - first lighting of the forge! Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-05-26 | Pierre Nadeau of soulsmithing.com lights his new forge in Canada for the very first time. I was honoured to be there for the inaugural firing, it felt like a graduation, a major milestone. See the rest of the forge building series here: youtube.com/watch?v=jpmPJRiiS-E&list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQL&index=14I met Pierre several years ago in Japan where he spent almost a decade working as a swordsmith apprentice. I am very grateful for his advice and assistance over the years. He is now continuing his research into traditional Japanese swords and historical crafting techniques. Soulsmithing channel: youtube.com/user/SoulsmithingAn interview of Pierre: youtube.com/watch?v=FNKymP1QF4MRead about apprenticeship: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/05/on-swordsmith-apprenticeshipPierre also specializes in making hempcrete mixers and custom wood-fired ovens on the side, the pizza was so good that unfortunately there is no footage!http://soulsmithing.com
Soulsmithing: adventures in hitech/lotech part 5 - chopping and sorting charcoal Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-05-20 | Pierre Nadeau of soulsmithing.com prepares to light his new forge in Canada. The focus of this video is sumi-kiri, charcoal chopping, screening, and sorting techniques, and will offer some valuable details for astute observers.The charcoal is chopped and then processed through four sizes of screen, the largest is for tanren, the second for hizukuri, his third size isn't highly useful but may be used in mini forges or crushed into fines, the fourth is the fines for lining the bottom of the forge, and the remainder is dust used for mixing into yaki-ire clay or for brasque refractory.See the rest of the series here: youtube.com/watch?v=jpmPJRiiS-E&list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQL&index=14I met Pierre several years ago in Japan where he spent almost a decade working as a swordsmith apprentice. I am very grateful for his advice and assistance over the years. He is now continuing his research into traditional Japanese swords and historical crafting techniques. Soulsmithing channel: youtube.com/user/SoulsmithingAn interview of Pierre: youtube.com/watch?v=FNKymP1QF4MRead about apprenticeship: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/05/on-swordsmith-apprenticeshipPierre also specializes in making hempcrete mixers and custom wood-fired ovens on the side, the pizza was so good that unfortunately there is no footage!http://soulsmithing.com
TLDW #15 - Building a Charcoal Tanto Forge Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-04-07 | Serious students of the forge can watch more full process traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction here: youtube.com/watch?v=Hi9Sh2Dt65U&list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQL&index=2Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This forge is a scaled down version specifically geared for tanto and smaller knives but has a removable spacer to allow for a larger fire when needed.Most of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone. Details about traditional measurements and clay mixtures here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forge
SOTW #15 - Museum Forge Project Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-03-15 | Read more about this project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSerious students of the forge can watch the full process and see more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction here: youtube.com/watch?v=Hi9Sh2Dt65U&list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQL&index=1Most of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This is a short overview of a 7 part series to illustrate several of the features that are common to this type of construction and follow the process of crafting a functioning swordsmith’s forge at a museum on Vancouver Island.
Museum Forge part 7/7 - making dorojiru ladle & hikaki from salvaged parts Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-03-08 | Read more about this project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLMost of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This 7 part series will illustrate several of the features that are common to this type of construction and follow the process of crafting a functioning swordsmith’s forge at a museum on Vancouver Island.
Museum Forge part 6/7 - recycling farm equipment, making aku Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-03-01 | Read more about this project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLMost of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This 7 part series will illustrate several of the features that are common to this type of construction and follow the process of crafting a functioning swordsmith’s forge at a museum on Vancouver Island.
Museum Forge part 5/7 - making 475lb. anvil from scrap Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-02-23 | Read more about the anvil here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/02/making-swordsmith-anvil-scrapRead more about this project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLMost of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This 7 part series will illustrate several of the features that are common to this type of construction and follow the process of crafting a functioning swordsmith’s forge at a museum on Vancouver Island.
Museum Forge part 4/7 - making a tuyere from clay and charcoal brasque Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-02-16 | Read more about this project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLMost of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This 7 part series will illustrate several of the features that are common to this type of construction and follow the process of crafting a functioning swordsmith’s forge at a museum on Vancouver Island.
Museum Forge part 3/7 - laying the forge bricks Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-02-09 | Read more about this project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLMost of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This 7 part series will illustrate several of the features that are common to this type of construction and follow the process of crafting a functioning swordsmith’s forge at a museum on Vancouver Island.
Museum Forge part 2/7 - natural earthen tsuchikabe fuigo wall Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-02-01 | Read more about this project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLMost of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This 7 part series will illustrate several of the features that are common to this type of construction and follow the process of crafting a functioning swordsmith’s forge at a museum on Vancouver Island.
Museum Forge part 1/7 - building the fuigo wall Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2017-01-25 | Read more about this project here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2017/01/building-traditional-swordsmith-forgeSee more traditional Japanese swordsmith style forge construction projects here: youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBJ5AOs7cMwCSinW7foaiHFZKbZDkasQLMost of history was forged with very simple equipment made from found and natural materials. A basic charcoal forge can be made with clay, brick, or even mud and stone.Traditional Japanese swordsmithing forges are purpose-built with certain design elements specific to the tasks involved in tanren and hizukuri. This 7 part series will illustrate several of the features that are common to this type of construction and follow the process of crafting a functioning swordsmith’s forge at a museum on Vancouver Island.
Tanto Geometry - inside look at traditional kaiken mounting Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2016-10-21 | A look inside the carving of a small kaiken tanto mounting (futokoro-gatana) with additional examples from an Edo period tsuka and an even older shirasaya. Serious students of the forge can study more tanto geometry here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/tag/tanto-geometryThe wood is hounoki/honoki, Japanese Magnolia, traditionally chosen because of its stability, longevity, and medium hardness. The omote is the "public side" of a tanto or sword, the side that faces outwards both when being worn and when on display. The edge faces upwards and the handle is on the left when displaying nihonto. The ura is the "private side" and faces away from the viewer when on display and towards the body when worn.An article on the carving and fitting of a classical tanto style handle: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2016/02/making-a-tanto-takedown-handle
One bamboo peg - takedown & assembly of a classical tanto style knife Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2016-10-08 | A demonstration on the takedown and assembly of classical tanto style knives. http://islandblacksmith.ca/2016/10/takedown-reassembly-classical-tanto-style-mountingsNever pull or jerk the blade out with the power of your arms or you will lose control of the blade and possibly damage the saya (scabbard), yourself, or others. When unsheathing, make sure the edge is up, then pull just enough (a few mm) so that the habaki (blade collar) disengages its tight hold on the saya, then the blade may be easily and smoothly drawn, resting on the mune (spine) as it slides out.One way to accomplish the initial part of the draw is to place a hand loosely on either side of the joint, topmost thumb knuckles together and then squeeze. The knuckles push against each other for only a short distance but it is enough to start the blade out in a controlled manner (this way is slightly more difficult and may take some practice). Another method is to grasp the tsuka (handle) and saya tightly with a little space between your hands and then use your saya thumb or forefinger to push against the other hand or against the tsuba (handguard), if it has one, until the release.To replace the blade in the saya, make sure the edge is up, rest the tip in the koiguchi (mouth of the scabbard), and slide it in smoothly, keeping the edge up and resting it on the mune (spine) until the habaki engages again.Storage & Handling1. never touch the blade directly, hold the tang below the polished area instead.2. store and display with the edge up and the handle to the left side.3. keep in a secure, dry location in a sturdy storage bag.4. if possible, keep the blade in shirasaya, apart from the fittings and mountings.5. use a thumb against the guard or hand, or the squeeze technique to open the first few mm without pulling.6. slide the blade out carefully along the spine with the edge upwards to avoid scuffing the blade or cutting the scabbard.7. avoid condensation from temperature changes or breathing on the blade.8. avoid wide temperature ranges or quick temperature or humidity changes to the wood.9. keep lacquered parts out of long-term direct sunlight.10. when closing, set the back of the tip inside the koiguchi (mouth of the scabbard) and then slide in carefully along the spine.Disassembly & Reassembly:1. remove the scabbard before disassembly.2. remove the mekugi peg by pressing from the back side with a thin piece of wood or mekugi-nuki tool.3. loosen by pressing the guard or gently striking the hand that is holding the handle.4. work the fingers under the guard and grasp the tang before removing the handle.5. take note of the order and direction of each component as it is removed.6. reassemble in reverse order, taking care not to force any part (check the order, fit, and placement instead)7. tap the pommel into your palm until the tang is fully seated in place.8. ensure that the mekugi is aligned rotationally so that the long, straight, unbroken bamboo fibers face back towards the pommel.9. insert from the correct side of the handle and press into place until flush or appropriately tight, do not overdrive.10. check that everything is snug and all parts are in their proper places before sheathing.Cleaning & Maintenance:1. remove fittings from the blade before oiling.2. remove old oil and dust with washi paper, tissue paper, or clean cotton cloth.3. wipe slowly from base to tip with the edge away from fingers.4. place a few drops of clove/camellia oil on a clean cotton cloth.5. wrap the cloth around the spine with the edge away from your fingers.6. wipe on a thin layer of oil starting from the polished area under the habaki towards the tip.7. remove any excess with a second pass if necessary.8. oil weekly to monthly depending on the climate and storage conditions.9. the oil can be used sparingly on other iron fittings as well (such as the handguard).10. sharpening and polishing should only be performed by specialized polishers.read more here:http://islandblacksmith.ca/knife-use-and-caremore about these knives:http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/12/touzai-fusion-tantohttp://islandblacksmith.ca/2014/09/tsukimi-tanto
Soulsmithing 4: adventures in hitech/lotech - building the fuigo floor Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2016-10-01 | Building the fuigo floor at Pierre Nadeau’s workshop. Pierre spent several years working as a swordsmith apprentice in rural Japan and is ready to continue his research into traditional Japanese swords and historical crafting techniques in Canada. Soulsmithing channel: youtube.com/user/SoulsmithingAn interview of Pierre: youtube.com/watch?v=FNKymP1QF4MThe three major projects during this visit were focused on getting the forge itself ready for use. In this episode, creating a steel frame and wooden floor to support the fuigo and conceal the in-floor heating system and blower manifold. For this particular project, the essence of "hitech-lotech" is to use available technology and equipment to overcome the challenges of swordsmithing without apprentices and assistants, in a cold climate, and still maintain the simple and peaceful environment of a traditional workshop. Pierre's solution was to use the space behind the forge wall which is out of sight of the smith and the area under the fuigo to locate and conceal equipment that does not need frequent accessing. An in-floor heating system and related equipment is installed under the back of the fuigo and the electric blower, valve, and manifold are located under the fuigo.This series is a compilation of what footage I was able to collect while both of us worked morning ’til night but gives a good idea of what went on and will offer some valuable details for astute observers.Pierre also specializes in making hempcrete mixers and custom wood-fired ovens on the side, the pizza was so good that unfortunately there is no footage!http://soulsmithing.com
Soulsmithing 3: adventures in hitech/lotech - laying forge bricks Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2016-09-24 | Laying bricks for the swordsmithing forge at Pierre Nadeau’s workshop. Pierre spent several years working as a swordsmith apprentice in rural Japan and is ready to continue his research into traditional Japanese swords and historical crafting techniques in Canada. Soulsmithing channel: youtube.com/user/SoulsmithingAn interview of Pierre: youtube.com/watch?v=FNKymP1QF4MThe three major projects during this visit were focused on getting the forge itself ready for use. In this episode, insulating and laying bricks for the forge.During the long cold Quebec winters, the ground can become very cold and tanren could become difficult or impossible with an earth-grounded forge. Pierre’s solution to combat cold and moisture is to enclose the forge in a concrete box, insulate inside the box with ceramic fiber, pour a castable refractory floor, and then install the hard firebrick walls inside. The bricks came from a former pottery kiln in the area and have lovely wabisabi textures and colours that record past projects from their earlier use. A blend of sand, refractory cement, and clay seals off the fuigo manifold pipe and the tuyere within the brick opening.This series is a compilation of what footage I was able to collect while both of us worked morning ’til night but gives a good idea of what went on and will offer some valuable details for astute observers.Pierre also specializes in making hempcrete mixers and custom wood-fired ovens on the side, the pizza was so good that unfortunately there is no footage!http://soulsmithing.com
Soulsmithing 2: adventures in hitech/lotech - fuigo blower manifold Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2016-09-18 | Fabricating a combined fuigo/blower manifold at Pierre Nadeau’s workshop. Pierre spent several years working as a swordsmith apprentice in rural Japan and is ready to continue his research into traditional Japanese swords and historical crafting techniques. Soulsmithing channel: youtube.com/user/SoulsmithingAn interview of Pierre: youtube.com/watch?v=FNKymP1QF4MThe three major projects during this visit were focused on getting the forge itself ready for use. In this episode, fabricating a custom manifold for combined fuigo box bellows and electric cage blower.During the early stages of tanren, the air must be slow and constant for a couple of hours straight for thorough heating without oxidization of the steel. A task traditionally reserved for an apprentice in order to allow the smith to carry on other work, Pierre’s solution is to install an electric fan under the fuigo with a valve system and manifold that allows him to leave the fuigo during this stage. In the video, the manifold and valve housing can be seen, the blower is yet to be installed. Wiring for a power switch to the blower runs up the front of the forge wall.This series is a compilation of what footage I was able to collect while both of us worked morning ’til night but gives a good idea of what went on and will offer some valuable details for astute observers.Pierre also specializes in making hempcrete mixers and custom wood-fired ovens on the side, the pizza was so good that unfortunately there is no footage!http://soulsmithing.com
TimeWarp #9 - Making a Mountain Kotanto - Tools for Satoyama full build overview Crossed Heart Forge - islandblacksmith 2016-09-16 | Hand forging a knife from a reclaimed harrow tooth and crafting a Tools for Satoyama style nihonto mounting from natural materials. (4x)Longer real-time version here: youtu.be/1VqXZgLwnRoMore about the process of making this knife here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2016/08/process-making-the-mountain-kotantoMore about the project:Satoyama are the managed forest areas that border the cultivated fields and the mountain wilds in Japan. Historically they provided soil nutrients, firewood, edible plants, mushrooms, fish, and game, and supported local industries such as farming, timber construction, and charcoal making. Balancing the interaction of wetlands, streams, forests, and fields is an important component of the satoyama landscape and allows for sustainable use of the rich resources they offer.The Tools for Satoyama project is inspired by this mutually beneficial interaction between humans and the natural world, a robust way of life that sustained both for centuries. Among the goals of the project are contributing to the growing awareness of the satoyama concept, sustainable practices, thoughtful approaches to intentional living, and related historical learning.The four styles of kotanto knives designed for the project are named for the four main areas found within the satoyama landscape: stream, field, forest, and mountain. In addition, the forest and mountain models also come in a full sized tanto configuration. Some of the core characteristics of the knives produced for this project are the reclaimed and natural source materials, use of traditional techniques, and a humble and simple style of carving and finishing.A clay tempered blade hand forged in a charcoal fire, water quenched with clay, sharpened with waterstones, and finished simply and humbly in the age-old style of farming and foresting tools traditionally used in managing satoyama lands.Read more about satoyama: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2016/03/tools-for-satoyama_________About this knife:Forged from a reclaimed harrow tooth, the blade profile of the mountain style kotanto is based on a kamakura sword and has more pronounced belly with slight drop point. The temper of this high carbon steel blade has been left relatively hard in order to hold a keen edge for tasks such as wood carving and hand work. This particular combination of steel and heat treatment is well suited to users who require a good edge and are willing to take care of it.The tang is constructed in a similar manner to a Japanese sword requiring only a single bamboo peg to hold the knife assembly together. In addition to the sense of beautiful simplicity, this design allows the knife to be taken apart for cleaning, polishing, detailed cutting tasks, or major resharpening work. The handle and scabbard are carved from local Nootka Cypress and finished with natural urushi lacquer. The handle is wrapped with cotton cord and then lacquered and the scabbard is finished with traditional ishimeji (stone texture) made with urushi and crushed tea leaves. A forged copper guard and removable peg carved from Bamboo complete the handle.The blade is just under 5.75″ long and the overall length is about 10.25″. The spine at the munemachi is about 5mm thick.SpecificationsNagasa (blade length): 144mmMotokasane (blade thickness): 5mmMotohaba (blade width): 30mmSori (curve): uchizoriNakago (tang): 102mmTsuka (handle): 110mmKoshirae (overall): 285mmKatachi (geometry): hira-zukuri, kaku-muneHamon (edge pattern): suguhaBoshi (tip pattern): maruNakago (tang): futsu, kuri-jiri, one mekugi-ana, signed near the tipMei (signature): hot stamped katabami-ken kamonKoshirae (mounting): satoyama hamidashi style, issakuMaterials: reclaimed harrow tooth steel, copper electrical washer, Nootka Cypress, Maple, cotton cord, natural urushi lacquer, tea leaves, BambooDesign your own knife here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/design-your-own-knife-tools-for-satoyama
