#40 Part 2: Fitting a Stay Alive Capacitor Unit to a Hornby TTS Sound Decoder Strathpeffer Junction 2018-10-21 | This is Part 2 of an in-depth two-part series looking at home-made stay alive devices. In this video, we look at adding a stay alive/keep alive unit to Hornby's TTS sound decoder. If you wished to add a stay alive unit to Hornby's R8249 decoder, the steps would be similar (although the negative leg would have to be soldered directly to the negative side of the rectifier).We made the stay alive unit in the previous video (Part 1 - Making a Stay Alive Capacitor Unit), and if you've not seen that video, you can watch it here: youtu.be/S2BmPiurl-0Please note: the steps covered in this video do require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not extremely careful.+ Video Contents +00:00 - Introduction00:20 - A quick recap01:20 - Examining the decoder06:08 - Soldering it all together14:52 - Testing the solder work16:10 - Fitting it all into the chassis18:05 - A word about CV settings19:08 - Testing the stay alive unit20:53 - Conclusions+ Components +You can buy items used in this video tutorial using the affiliate links below. Using these links helps to support the channel and is very much appreciated.Hornby TTS decoders (Amazon): amzn.to/2PbRM9xHornby TTS sound decoders (eBay): ebay.to/2S1P4CaCapacitors (15,000 uF 25v): ebay.to/2AljFnFResistors (100 ohm 1/4w): amzn.to/2yzLtDxDecoder wire (red & black): ebay.to/2NR9fj1Decoder wire (Multipack): ebay.to/2PGEYoKDiodes (1N4001 50v 1A): ebay.to/2CXBifBDiodes (1N4001 50v 1A):: amzn.to/2ODFqYoHeat Shrink (multipack): amzn.to/2PdO0N5Heat Shrink (various sizes): ebay.to/2EvWI54Kapton tape (10mm x 30m): amzn.to/2OBEpjBKapton tape (various sizes): ebay.to/2R2H2aULiquid Flux Topnik No Clean (Amazon): amzn.to/2Al6HpPLiquid Flux Topnik No Clean (eBay): ebay.to/2CXy7EO0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: amzn.to/2NT7pOy0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: ebay.to/2S6Jpe0Hakko Soldering Station: amzn.to/2CVLzcaBlue silicone electronics mat: amzn.to/2Pbv7ugA2 green cutting mat: amzn.to/2P8aKy3A1 green cutting matt: amzn.to/2P8aKy3#StrathpefferJunction #HornbyTTS #StayAlive #KeepAliveThank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com+ Disclaimer +This project does require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not very careful. If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
Hornby Ringfield Motor Upgrade Kits - Plug & Play! Strathpeffer Junction 2019-10-17 | After months of careful design, development and testing, I'm thrilled to reveal my brand new Hornby ringfield motor upgrade adaptors. All-but plug and play, they allow you to quickly and easily convert your old Hornby ringfield models to smooth running, far quieter CD motors...all without the new for hot glue or drilling out the chassis!In most cases, the conversion is fully reversible and the motor can easily be switched out, either to replace it or to put back the ringfield should you have changed your mind. And if you've got a Co-Co or Tender Drive steam loco, gone arr the days of having to glue on the central wheel...just reinstate the axle into the adaptor and away you go...simple.---Jump to:00:14 - Introduction01:00 - Hornby kit overview03:40 - Stripping down the ringfield bogie07:05 - Installing the adaptor & new motor11:55 - Trimming the new pinion gear16:50 - For Co-co/Tender drive: Reinstalling the central axle/wheel---Find out more about the adaptors here: strathpefferjunction.com/hornby-ringfield-motor-upgrade-kits-are-now-availableGrab yourself an adaptor here: strathpefferjunction.com/product-category/ringfield-motor-conversion-kits/hornby-replacement-motor-kits#RingfieldMotorAdaptor #CDMotorUpgrade #StrathpefferJunction---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
How to Make Magnetic Set Squares - DIY for Railway Modellers (3D-Printing) Strathpeffer Junction 2019-05-17 | Magnet set squares are invaluable for railway modelling. I've bought a few sets in the past, but they can be quite expensive for what they are.I wanted to find a cheaper option, so once again turned to my 3D printer. In this video, I show you how to make your own magnetic clamps at home, using my free 3D printer STL file.You can download the 3D model to print at home for non-commercial use via these links: strathpefferjunction.com/3dmodelsstrathpefferjunction.com/magneticsquareHere are some affiliate links to materials used in this project. They don't cost you any more to use, but I get a (very) small return from each item sold, which helps me keep the channel going.Neodymium magnets (eBay): ebay.to/30owV5RNeodymium magnets (Amazon): amzn.to/2WMmzurEMA Plastic Weld (eBay): ebay.to/2VvAYcSEMA Plastic Weld (Amazon): amzn.to/2VrvaRvI tend to use Rigid.Ink filament where I want quality and strength. It's not the cheapest, but it's by far and away the most reliable filament I've found. Plus, their customer service is excellent: amzn.to/2JtPMr5---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
A quick look at the HobbyZone SM1 Paint Pot Holder & Brush Stand...easy DIY! Strathpeffer Junction 2019-05-10 | I've found the HobbyZone products to be excellent for organising my modelling desk. They do a range of drawers, shelves, paint racks etc. and the beauty of them all is that they are magnetic and clip together to form a rigid structure.While others have covered unit construction, I thought I'd do a quick video on their wee paint stand (SM1). Just a quick look at what it is and how it goes together...a simple and easy job!---If you'd like one of these paint stand yourself, or something else from the Hobby Zone range, please consider using one of the affiliate links below. Anything bought via them helps me product content on Strathpeffer Junction :)Here's the product on Amazon: amzn.to/2VslTxpAnd here's the product on eBay: ebay.to/2Ji37CLYou can find a large range of HobbyZone products here on Amazon: amzn.to/2DYXchn---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
Use any old CD motor with this adjustable Lima ringfield adaptor! Strathpeffer Junction 2019-04-28 | This time last year, I produced a video about a 3D-printed motor adaptor, which makes converting Lima ringfield motors to CD/DVD drive motors a doddle. After a few queries from fol asking about what motors are compatible with it, I decided to tweak the design a little to create a new adaptor that can accommodate most of the common motors available online and in the shops.In this video I talk a little about the design differences and demonstrate the installation and conversion process.If you'd like to buy an adaptor, you can grab one here: strathpefferjunction.com/product/generic-24mm-cd-dvd-drive-motor-adaptor-for-lima-ringfield-locomotives-la4#Lima #RingfieldConversion #CDmotor---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
Lima Replacement Motor Adaptor: Finding the Perfect Fit! Strathpeffer Junction 2019-04-19 | Today we're having a look at two alternative techniques for improving the fit between our ringfield motor adaptors and the CD drive motors that go in them.Normally, the motor will fit into the adaptor with an interference fit and will sit snugly, but sometimes manufacturing tolerances mean there may be a little play. These two options resolve that issue for good, and take only seconds to do...01:01 - Method 1 (Permanent)03:01 - Method 2 (Reversible - Preferred Option)You can grab yourself a roll of 8mm Kapton tape here: amzn.to/2VeQz4yTo get yourself a conversion kit for your own Lima loco, head to: strathpefferjunction.com/shop---This is a follow on video that supplements our previous video on upgrading a Lima ringfield motor to a CD-style motor, using our special 3D-printed conversion kits. You can watch that earlier video here: youtu.be/A8Pgx9IUDRMFor full step-by-step instructions, please visit: strathpefferjunction.com/instructions#RingfieldReplacement #Lima #Hornby---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
Making a Model Railway Layout Sign Strathpeffer Junction 2019-04-14 | Every layout has a name...every layout needs a sign to go with it!In this video, we take a look at assembling Scale Model Scenery's layout plaque, which will eventually go on the wall in the loft, above Strathpeffer Junction itself.They have produced a great product that's pretty easy to use, but to get a really smooth finish, it's best to use spray paint, give it plenty of coats and finish with gloss varnish.If you're interested in getting a sign for your own layout, you can buy Scale Model Scenery's one here: bit.ly/2G9MbKC#StrathpefferJunction #LayoutSign #ScotRail---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
Lima Ringfield Motor Adaptor Kit...a word about alignment! Strathpeffer Junction 2019-04-13 | This quick Strath's Shorts tutorial takes a closer look at the best way to align our Lima ringfield motor adaptor kits to ensure that the gears don't bind or jam.This is a follow on video that supplements our previous video on upgrading a Lima ringfield motor to a CD-style motor, using our special 3D-printed conversion kits. You can watch that earlier video here: youtu.be/A8Pgx9IUDRMFor full step-by-step instructions or to grab yourself a conversion kit for your own loco, please visit our website: strathpefferjunction.com/instructions#RingfieldAdaptor #Lima #Hornby---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
A really short update...really! Strathpeffer Junction 2019-04-13 | I've had quite a few messages asking where I've got to, so I thought I'd publish a short update video to explain what's been going on and also what my plans are for the next few months. #StrathpefferJunction #LayoutUpdate ---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#41 Layout & Channel Update (January 2019) Strathpeffer Junction 2019-01-07 | Happy New Year! It's 2019: a new year and a new video. After a break of a couple of months, we're back to with a general layout and channel update.Watch to hear about progress on the layout, modelling studio developments, background projects and the layout card board. I also talk about layout lighting and my new control panel.++ Ringfield Adaptors ++If you'd like to get a notification when the Lima ringfield adaptors are available to buy, please join my mailing list: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com/mailinglistsignup++ Layout Cards ++If you're after a Strath Junction layout card or you'd like to send me one for inclusion on my board, click here: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com/layoutcards++ Railway Modelling Community links ++Visit Kirkton Road Junction: youtube.com/channel/UCkcK9BBtpYNWaGDmyZk753QVisit Strathpeffer Spa Railway: youtube.com/channel/UCVhtF1Jr-F28Rei_wbeLOqwJoin the Model Rail Network: youtube.com/channel/UCAu_DzB3v-SzDDdShZi8sTgVisit MRYCG: youtube.com/channel/UCOw5PQM897D1TOpjcJIA9mg---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.#StrathpefferJunction #ModelRailNetwork #MRYCG #2019
Network YouTube: the Map is Back! Strathpeffer Junction 2018-11-10 | The Network Youtube map is back, refreshed and better than ever. Strathpeffer Junction featured on the first map, and we're thrilled to be part of version 2 and a member of its associated Facebook group.Some members of the group have put together a wee promo video for the map and the group, which we've shared today. It's one of a number of excellent railway modelling communities on Facebook that we're chuffed to be part of.If you'd like to be part of Network YouTube, point your browser here: facebook.com/groups/NetworkYT#StrathpefferJunction #NetworkYoutube---With thanks to the following channels:Galgorm Hall - youtube.com/channel/UCPycHXRuL0srxPrUuTgTEfQCheekytek - youtube.com/channel/UC-pm0lZ8rkyZLJSLxHaonCgNtrains - youtube.com/channel/UCGz_5WMaToIZrS_G5sbaKrgStrathpeffer Junction - youtube.com/channel/UCG5jK8MTeVDbRKRlRdEHFxwNew Junction - youtube.com/channel/UCHNoLzqu_m2DctFOBqVuLvACottesmore - youtube.com/channel/UC4DRVPUEOjwAL0aNMNyLcngPennyhill Junction - youtube.com/channel/UCH4puVh1InEAY8s9vgP--qwScrapline Model Railway - youtube.com/channel/UCrDqF6ToUPIvubkxazYkXtwGowerton Parkway - youtube.com/channel/UC6drzoBI6UXtGZSHQPrCE8gMusic: Alternative by Vibe Tracks. (Taken from YouTube Audio Library)A wee note about copyright: This video was put together with clips from the above channel which were provided by them and with permission obtained. This video is being uploaded on multiple accounts as a promotional video. Copyright for individual clips remains with the relevant channels.---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#39 Part 1: How to make a Stay Alive Capacitor Unit (Hornby TTS Sound Decoder and Others) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-10-21 | This is Part 1 of an in-depth two-part series looking at home-made stay alive devices.In this video, we look at making a stay alive/keep alive capacitor unit for use alongside a Hornby TTS sound decoder. The principles and steps outlined in this video are, however, applicable for most other stay alive scenarios, including coach lighting, end of train (EOT) lamps and so on. The stay alive unit made could therefore be used in multiple situations, not just with a Hornby decoder.As well as showing you how to make the stay alive unit itself and assemble all of the components, there's a brief explanation of the background to stay alive devices generally and the role that each of the components plays in the overall circuit.+ Video Contents +00:00 - Video introduction01:08 - Intro to making a stay alive unit02:18 - Overview of the components required04:11 - Using resistors to manage in-rush05:00 - The components in detail06:26 - Circuit diagrams08:40 - A quick word of capacitor sizes10:58 - Putting it all together: soldering15:40 - Adding hookup wires & heat shrink17:22 - The finished article+ Components +You can buy items used in this video tutorial using the affiliate links below. Using these links helps to support the channel and is very much appreciated.Hornby TTS decoders (Amazon): amzn.to/2PbRM9xHornby TTS sound decoders (eBay): ebay.to/2S1P4CaCapacitors (15,000 uF 25v): ebay.to/2AljFnFResistors (100 ohm 1/4w): amzn.to/2yzLtDxDecoder wire (red & black): ebay.to/2NR9fj1Decoder wire (Multipack): ebay.to/2PGEYoKDiodes (1N4001 50v 1A): ebay.to/2CXBifBDiodes (1N4001 50v 1A):: amzn.to/2ODFqYoHeat Shrink (multipack): amzn.to/2PdO0N5Heat Shrink (various sizes): ebay.to/2EvWI54Kapton tape (10mm x 30m): amzn.to/2OBEpjBKapton tape (various sizes): ebay.to/2R2H2aULiquid Flux Topnik No Clean (Amazon): amzn.to/2Al6HpPLiquid Flux Topnik No Clean (eBay): ebay.to/2CXy7EO0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: amzn.to/2NT7pOy0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: ebay.to/2S6Jpe0Hakko Soldering Station: amzn.to/2CVLzcaBlue silicone electronics mat: amzn.to/2Pbv7ugA2 green cutting mat: amzn.to/2P8aKy3A1 green cutting matt: amzn.to/2P8aKy3#StrathpefferJunction #HornbyTTS #StayAlive #KeepAliveThank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com+ Disclaimer +This project does require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not very careful. If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#38 Hornby Class 37 TTS Sound - Mega Bass Speaker Upgrade Strathpeffer Junction 2018-10-05 | The is the first in a two-part series on upgrades and improvements that can be made to a Hornby Class 37 locomotive with TSS sound. In the second video, we'll look at adding stay-alive capabilities to help keep the running smooth and steady, but for now, we're upgrading the stock speaker to something a little better...megabass!The steps outlined in this video are applicable to all TTS sound decoders (and many others). The only differences being that in some locomotives - not least most steam locos - the space inside can be rather limited and you may not be able to fit such a large speaker into the body. Remember that in all cases where a Hornby TTS decoder is used, you must also use a 8 Ohm speaker (or two 4 Ohm speakers in series, adding up to 8 Ohms). This is different to LokSound V4 decoders, which can use a 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm speaker.Speaker impedance and decoder specifications for all common sound decoders are explained in more detail in our free guide, which you can download here: tinyurl.com/dcc-sound-speaker-guide---You can buy some of the components and consumables used in this video, and give a wee bit of support to the channel, using the affiliate links below:Megabass speakers: ebay.to/2N4VMnf'No Clean' Solder Flux: amzn.to/2E9oOmKSelection box of heatshrink: amzn.to/2zTbhv5Black tack: amzn.to/2OCYhCg---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#37 Model Railway/Railroad YouTube Channel Layout Cards Strathpeffer Junction 2018-09-27 | I was chatting to Paul at the Galgorm Hall model railway layout a few weeks back about railway modelling on YouTube, and model making and creativity online more generally.One thing that we both loved about other maker channels, particularly amongst the woodworking community, is that folk share 'shop cards' with each other as a way to support other channels and give visual 'shout outs'.So, we decided we'd knock up some 'layout cards' for our own respective model railway YouTube channels and share them with each other to get the ball rolling. And no sooner had we exchanged cards, when Simon from Liverton Central dropped us a line to get involved - and so it began!If you'd like a Strathpeffer Junction layout card (I've currently got magnet and sticker variants), you can request one here: strathpefferjunction.com/layoutcardrequest---You can visit Galgorm Hall and Liverton Central here:youtube.com/galgormhallyoutube.com/channel/UCoQlAB8h66gOulcw-HD7QIw---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#36 Hornby Class 43 HST DCC Sound - Upgrading the Stock Speakers (TTS & LokSound Decoders) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-09-17 | Hornby have just released a brand new Class 43/HST set with TTS sound. It’s a fantastic model and the sound decoder is pretty decent too for the money, but, as is the case with most sound decoders, the factory-fitted speaker is a little tinny and doesn’t have much bass response to it. In this in-depth video, I show you all you need to know about upgrading/replacing stock TTS & DCC sound speakers with a far superior Mega Bass speaker, including rewiring, body preparation (for anyone who doesn’t have a sound-fitted model) and installation. The improvement to sound and bass response from these new speakers is fantastic. ---Jump to sections:00:00 - Introduction01:40 - Removing the body03:15 - Speaker location options04:38 - Choosing a new speaker07:40 - Replacing the speakers10:28 - Installing the speakers (dummy car)15:03 - Installing the speakers (power car)18:00 - Body replacement and testing---The HST set featured is not a TTS-fitted model, however the steps involved in replacing the speaker are exactly the same for a TTS chip as they are a LokSound or Zimo decoder; the only difference being that a TTS and Zimo decoders must use an 8 ohm speaker, while the LokSound V4 can use anything between 4 and 16 ohms.Speaker impedance and decoder specifications are explained in more detail in our free guide, which you can download here: tinyurl.com/dcc-sound-speaker-guide---There are a variety of different retailers selling Mega Bass speakers (also called 'High Bass'). Here are some options: ebay.to/2N4VMnfcoastaldcc.co.uk/products/speakers/8-ohm---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#35 Making a Model Loco Test Board (with Rolling Road, DCC Decoder Tester, LokProgrammer & SPROG) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-08-30 | Update: Due to popular demand, a PDF wiring diagram for the test board is now available here: tinyurl.com/loco-tester-rollingroad-wiringI've been doing an increasing number of DCC decoder installations and model locomotive repair jobs - both for myself and others - and setting up my tester and rolling road each and every time I needed them was becoming a bit tiresome (not to mention the rat's nest of cables).So, I decided to put together a wee loco and decoder test board, with LokProgrammer, SPROG and off-board control integration (DCC and DC/Analogue). It also features a rolling road, using DCC Concepts rolling road modules and my own take on a means to permanently integrate them into a test set up.This is only one way of approaching this and there other examples out there. I do recommend that you do something like this if you're intending to do a lot of decoder installation and maintenance - it saves a lot of time and hassle!CORRECTION: In the video, I mention the acrylic/perspex sheet as being 6mm when it is actually 4mm. A thickness of 6mm is likely to be too thick and may interfere with the wheel flanges.---You can buy some components for this how-to project via the links below. Buying via Amazon or eBay affiliate links means I get a (very) small donation and helps to support the channel:- DCC Concepts rolling road: ebay.to/3bfT63l- Red and black wire pack: amzn.to/2C1Infx- Green 2-pin terminal plugs/sockets: amzn.to/2PiVfiW- Peco straight track: amzn.to/2LGgPM7- A4 clear acrylic sheet (4mm thick): amzn.to/2Cae1Yk- M5x8mm black nylon spacer: amzn.to/2Pq7tX4- A4 plywood 12mm: ebay.to/31uVpLr- A4 plywood 3mm: amzn.to/2C03bE2- ESU decoder tester: ebay.to/2S13mVI- SPROG dcc module: http://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk- Green power panel-mount socket/plug (20pk): ebay.to/37WP0ey - Green power panel-mount socket/plug (2P / 3.81 Pitch): ebay.to/2v7Qe86- DC power socket: ebay.to/2v30jU6- DC power plug: ebay.to/2tvNu46- 3 position, 2-pole switch: ebay.to/2SxKNaXIf you've got a 3D printer, you can download STL file for the 3D-designed parts for free and print yourself a copy:Switch box/enclosure: skfb.ly/6B6CySPROG3 cradle: skfb.ly/6B6DY---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#34 Layout Update: Track Planning, Baseboards & Rolling Stock Cataloguing (August 2018) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-08-09 | It's been just over two months since I posted a layout update. Despite the incredibly hot weather and other distractions, I've still managed to make some reasonable progress up in the loft. In this video, I take a look at the track plan for the Strathpeffer Junction layout, as well as where I've got to with the baseboards, my initial thoughts for DCC busses and some sorting and cataloguing of rolling stock and locomotives.I've had to jettison the idea of a two level layout with large fiddle yard below due to space constraints, so now it'll be mainly one scenic level, albeit with an upper level TMD at one end with a small fiddle yard below that.The plans show what I'll be working towards, but are by no means set in stone. I'd love to know what you think about my plans and ideas, so please feel free to leave any thoughts, comments, suggestions and questions in the comments section below. EDIT: In the video I put up text on the screen mentioning two booster units for my two power districts. I should have written one booster. The one district will be run run from the DCC controller itself (in my case, a Z21 black), and the one from a booster.You can find the channel that I gave a shout out here: youtube.com/channel/UCVhtF1Jr-F28Rei_wbeLOqw---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#33 Part B: Installing a Flashing Tail Lamp/EOT Light (Making Pickups, Switch & Voltage Regulator) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-08-01 | This in-depth, two-part how-to series takes you through the installation process of a flashing tail lamp and pickup circuitry, step-by-step. Part A looked at designing and building a small rectifier and stay-alive/keep-alive circuit, from component selection to soldering. You can watch it here: youtu.be/xFHKSgrDBL8In this part, Part B, we look at adding a switch, installing the red tail lamp itself and, because the flasher unit used requires a specific voltage, the design and build of a small rectifier circuit.The circuitry used in this video series is just as applicable for coach lighting circuits or most other situations where you need to get power from the tracks into a coach or wagon to power a light. You can download the schematic for the circuitry here: tinyurl.com/coach-lighting-stay-alive#StrathpefferJunction #MRYCG #NetworkYouTube---00:00 - Installing a switch03:30 - Adding pickups to the bogie08:00 - Wiring up the switch, bogies & circuit board12:45 - Installing the flashing lamp18:00 - Designing & building a voltage regulator 23:22 - Fitting it all together & testing the lamp---You can buy items similar to/the same as some of the consumables featured in this video via these Amazon affiliate links:Prototyping circuit board: amzn.to/2OzU2EzBridge rectifiers: amzn.to/2NYMQRqElectrolytic capacitors (1000uf 25V): amzn.to/2n4Jm45Electrolytic capacitors (mixed box): amzn.to/2v727bB+5V 150mA voltage regulator: amzn.to/2n2KWDy---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#32 Part A: Installing a Flashing Tail Lamp/EOT Light (Making a Rectifier & Stay-Alive Circuit) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-08-01 | When the Model Railway YouTube Community Group coach tour visited Strathpeffer Junction, we took the opportunity to drop the coach into Fodderty TMD for a quick once-over and flashing tail lamp installation.This in-depth, two-part how-to series takes you through the installation process, step-by-step. Part A looks at designing and building a small rectifier and stay-alive/keep-alive circuit, from component selection to soldering.Part B looks at adding a switch, installing the red tail lamp itself and, because the flasher unit used requires a specific voltage, the design and build of a small rectifier circuit. You can watch it here: youtu.be/nrtPx-Byc2YThe circuitry used in this video series is just as applicable for coach lighting circuits or most other situations where you need to get power from the tracks into a coach or wagon to power a light. You can download the schematic for the circuitry here: tinyurl.com/coach-lighting-stay-alive#StrathpefferJunction #MRYCG #NetworkYouTube---00:00 - Introduction02:30 - Working out the design03:50 - Looking at the components10:25 - Arranging everything and soldering it all together---You can buy items similar to/the same as some of the consumables featured in this video via these Amazon affiliate links:Prototyping circuit board: amzn.to/2OzU2EzBridge rectifiers: amzn.to/2NYMQRqElectrolytic capacitors (1000uf 25V): amzn.to/2n4Jm45Electrolytic capacitors (mixed box): amzn.to/2v727bB+5V 150mA voltage regulator: amzn.to/2n2KWDy---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#31 Model Railway YouTube Community Group (MRYCG) Network YouTube Coach Tour (Summer 2018) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-07-20 | During the summer of 2018, Paul Chapman of the Model Railway YouTube Community Group (MRYCG) and Galgorm Hall model railway set in motion a fantastic tour of many of the UK's online model railway YouTube channels, based on Dave Jones' wonderful map.He resprayed two coaches in a special livery - one in OO Gauge and one in N Gauge - and sent them on their merry way around the British Isles (and, so I'm told, also one or two further flung parts of the world).I was delighted to be part of this epic tour and one of the very first stops, no less - which added a bit of pressure, as I have no idea what to do with it given I didn't have a layout set up.No visit to Strathpeffer Junction would be complete without a wee bit of tinkering, so that's exactly what I did...and the coach left with a flashing tail lamp!Before arriving in the Highlands, the coach started at Richard Watson's fantastic New Junction. You can watch his video here: youtu.be/cb-oycYGjzoAfter a week in sunny Strathpeffer, the coach headed off down the Highland Mainline towards Kirkton Road Junction. You can catch Mark's video here: youtu.be/4W-MRBTZjZkWishing it all the very best of luck for the journey ahead...You can find out more about the MRYCG summer coach tour here: facebook.com/groups/MRYCG#NetworkYoutube #MRYCG #StrathpefferJunction---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#30 How-to: Using a 21-pin decoder in a locomotive with an 8-pin socket Strathpeffer Junction 2018-07-06 | A short tutorial outlining one approach for making a custom 21-pin to 8-pin harness to enable the use of a 21-pin decoder in an 8-pin locomotive chassis.You can find a wiring diagram/schematic for the MTC 21-pin breakout board here: tinyurl.com/21pin-to-8pin-adaptor-diagramNote: by its very nature, an 8-pin plug will not enable all functions of a 21-pin decoder to be used. This is unlikely to be an issue in most cases as 8-pin chassis tend to have few function connections.If used with a sound decoder, separate wires will need to be soldered to the adaptor for the speaker connections. Alternatively, in some cases, speaker wires can be soldered directly to the chip.---Items required for this project are:- MTC 21-pin breakout board (e.g. Laisdcc or ESU)- 8-pin plug (pre-wired, if possible)- Reel of decoder wire (for non-wired plugs)- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux- Kapton tape or insulation tape- Various tools, including: small side cutters, wire stripper and an exacto knife.---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#29 Ringfield Motor Upgrade Using a 3D Printed Adaptor Strathpeffer Junction 2018-06-15 | In this video, we take a look at an alternative method for replacing the ringfield/pancake motor in older Lima and Hornby models with a brand new CD/DVD drive motor. We also have step-by-step written instructions, which you can download here: strathpefferjunction.com/instructionsUpdate: You can now buy our ringfield motor adaptors at strathpefferjunction.com/hornby-lima-ringfield-motor-upgrade-conversion-kitsWe've used glue and brass tube in earlier projects to support the new motor, and while it works well, it can be a fiddly process, it takes time and can be hard to reverse.Using a computer-designed and 3D-printed adaptor, you can quickly and simply install and perfectly align a replacement DC motor. If you ever needed to replace a component, or indeed wanted to reinstall the original ringfield motor, it's entirely possible to do so. This is a non-invasive alternative!This is a detailed, step-by-step video and you'll probably want a cup of tea or coffee and a comfy chair. The methods used in this video are not necessarily the only way to do it, nor necessarily the best. ---00:14 - Introduction01:36 - Dismantling the motor bogie03:24 - Preparing the new drive gear05:18 - Designing the 3D-printed adaptor07:06 - Assembling the new motor and adaptor09:18 - Installing the new motor16:13 - Wiring it all up19:28 - Test run on the rolling road22:16 - A look at the heat generated by the motor26:26 - Wrapping it all up---The 10mm CD/DVD drive motor should work in most Lima models locomotives of the following OO gauge classes: 08, 09, 31, 37, 40, 47, 52, 59, 60, 66 and 92. Other models may be able to accommodate a larger 12mm motor, but you must check dimensions yourself first and the 3D printed part would have to be altered accordingly.The replacement motor is a 12000rpm, 6V, 0.03A DC motor. The output from a DCC decoder or a DC controller can reach 12V DC (sometimes a little higher) at the top end. In order to avoid motor burn-out and prolong motor life:1. Diodes should be used to reduce voltage (as shown in the video), 2. DCC decoders should have their CV5 value reduced (if available), and3. Top speeds should be kept to a minimum and run at higher speeds for short periods only.The PLA+ plastic filament used in the production of the adaptor has a glass transition temperature of 50°-60°C (the point at which it may begin to soften). Our trials showed the motor got up to about 47.6°C after an hour of constant running at medium-to-fast speeds. Under normal 'home' use, it's unlikely that the plastic will be adversely affected by motor temperature, however if the motor is used for very long periods or worked hard with a long rake etc., its temperature may begin to exceed the glass transition temperature of the plastic and it may begin to soften.Our accompanying website article is here: tinyurl.com/3d-printed-motor-adaptor---You can buy some of the consumables and tools featured in this video via these Amazon affiliate links:* 10mm 6V motor: amzn.to/2HtkpYa* 8-tooth, 2mm ID/5mm OD gears: amzn.to/2HtWI1C* Surface mount (SMD) rectifier diodes: amzn.to/2JnqkDE* Through-hole rectifier diodes: amzn.to/2sQweSH* Rigid.Ink PLA+ filament: amzn.to/2takESF* FlashForge Creator Pro 3D printer: amzn.to/2LQt2P6* Flir One thermal camera for android: amzn.to/2sZwC2p---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: I’ve drawn upon ideas and suggestions from a range of channels and people, as well as implementing my own. If you choose to follow any of the steps outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage to yourself, your models or your equipment is your own responsibility.
#28 Heljans Class 07 Shunter: Body Removal & DCC Fitting (Part 2) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-06-10 | In Part 2 of this mini-series examining Heljan's hotly-anticipated Class 07 0-6-0 diesel-electric shunter, we move on to removing the body and fitting a 6-pin DCC decoder.Body removal involves the disengagement of some handrails and can be quite fiddly. On the version 2 variant with dual braking, additional brake pipes must be removed, and that can easily result in chipped paint. It must be stressed that it is very easy to damage the model whilst removing the body, so please only do so if you're confident that you can do it well and that you have set aside good time to do it - don't rush!Despite the finicky nature of the DCC installation process, it's still a wonderful model with some fabulous detailing and a decent (yet a little noisy) motor. The directional lighting is better than on Heljan's Class 05, but still fairly dim.---Video contents:00:18 Quick introduction00:54 Body removal07:45 DCC decoder installation13:05 Body replacement16:30 A run of the rolling road---You can buy some of the consumables used in this project video via these Amazon affiliate links:* Gaugemaster DCC23 6-pin decoder: amzn.to/2JBzj00* Kapton tape: amzn.to/2xYVOL7* Humbrol matt white (enamal): amzn.to/2JrylYw* Humbrol matt white (acrylic): amzn.to/2Jq5gMW* Peco foam servicing cradle: amzn.to/2sWqRBp---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.
#27 Heljans Class 07 Shunter: First Thoughts, Some History & Running-in (Part 1) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-06-10 | Here in Part 1 we take a look at Heljan's hotly-anticipated Class 07 0-6-0 diesel-electric shunter. In Part 2, we'll fit a DCC decoder and also look at the directional lights in action.It's a wonderful model with some fabulous detailing for the most part. The cab detail is good and there's lots of room for a driver in the easy-to-remove cab. The directional lighting is better than on Heljan's Class 05, but still fairly dim.It has a decent weight to it and the motor performs well at lower speeds (particularly in DCC mode). It's not the quietest of motors, however. Body removal involves the disengagement of some handrails and can be quite fiddly. On the version 2 variant, additional brake pipes must be removed, and that can result in chipped paint. This is covered in Part 2.---Video contents:00:10 Unboxing & Introduction04:40 A brief history07:18 Overview of the model14:16 First run of the rolling road---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#26 Lima Class 47 Ringfield Motor Upgrade - Part B Strathpeffer Junction 2018-06-08 | This is the fifth video in the Lima Class 47 upgrade mini-series and is Part B of replacing the ringfield/pancake motor with a brand new CD/DVD drive motor. Part B focuses on fixing the motor into place, creating a small diode array to drop some volts so that the motor is less stressed by higher voltages and then wiring it all up to the DCC decoder.In Part A, we looked at dismantling the old motor, removing the gears for cleaning, adapting the plain bearing to accommodate a smaller drive shaft and positioning the new motor ready for gluing. You may wish to watch Part A first. These are detailed, step-by-step videos. If you want a brief overview, you’ll find other options on YouTube and elsewhere. The methods used in this video are not necessarily the only way to do it, nor necessarily the best. ---00:20 - Gluing the new motor into place05:39 - Reassembling the gears08:00 - Making a diode voltage dropper18:48 - Wiring up the new motor 22:58 - Testing the new motor---The 10mm CD/DVD drive motor should work in most Lima models locomotives of the following OO gauge classes: 08, 09, 31, 37, 40, 47, 52, 59, 60, 66 and 92. Other models may be able to accommodate a larger 12mm motor, but you must check dimensions yourself first.The replacement motor is a 12000rpm, 6V, 0.03A DC motor. The output from a DCC decoder or a DC controller can reach 12V DC (sometimes a little higher) at the top end. In order to avoid motor burn-out and prolong motor life:1. Diodes should be used to reduce voltage (as shown in the video), 2. DCC decoders should have their CV5 value reduced (if available), and3. Top speeds should be kept to a minimum and run at higher speeds for short periods only.Our accompanying website article is here: tinyurl.com/ringfield-motor-replacement---You can buy some of the consumables featured in this video via these Amazon affiliate links:* 10mm 6V motor: amzn.to/2HtkpYa* 8-tooth, 2mm ID/5mm OD gears: amzn.to/2HtWI1C* 2.5mm OD brass tube here: tinyurl.com/2-5mm-brass-tube* Surface mount (SMD) rectifier diodes: amzn.to/2KPv5Hp* Through-hole rectifier diodes: amzn.to/2sQweSH---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: I’ve drawn upon ideas and suggestions from a range of channels and people, as well as implementing my own. If you choose to follow any of the steps outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage to yourself, your models or your equipment is your own responsibility.
#25 Lima Class 47 Ringfield Motor Upgrade - Part A Strathpeffer Junction 2018-06-08 | Welcome back to my in-depth mini-series on upgrades to an old Lima Class 47 loco. This is the fourth video in the series and is Part A of replacing the ringfield/pancake motor with a brand new CD/DVD drive motor.In Part A, we look at dismantling the old motor, removing the gears for cleaning, adapting the plain bearing to accommodate a smaller drive shaft and positioning the new motor ready for gluing.Part B will then focus on fixing the motor into place, creating a small diode array to drop some volts so that the motor is less stressed by higher voltages and then wiring it all up to the DCC decoder.These are detailed, step-by-step videos. If you want a brief overview, you’ll find other options on YouTube and elsewhere. The methods used in this video are not necessarily the only way to do it, nor necessarily the best. ---00:10 - Introduction01:00 - Key components for the project02:39 - Taking the loco apart06:00 - Motor & grear disassembly11:44 - Removing the bearing & making a brass bush16:38 - Refitting the bearing19:20 - Reassembling the gears & seating the new motor---The 10mm CD/DVD drive motor should work in most Lima models locomotives of the following OO gauge classes: 08, 09, 31, 37, 40, 47, 52, 59, 60, 66 and 92. Other models may be able to accommodate a larger 12mm motor, but you must check dimensions yourself first.The replacement motor is a 12000rpm, 6V, 0.03A DC motor. The output from a DCC decoder or a DC controller can reach 12V DC (sometimes a little higher) at the top end. In order to avoid motor burn-out and prolong motor life:1. Diodes should be used to reduce voltage (as shown in the video), 2. DCC decoders should have their CV5 value reduced (if available), and3. Top speeds should be kept to a minimum and run at higher speeds for short periods only.Our accompanying website article is here: tinyurl.com/ringfield-motor-replacement---You can buy some of the consumables featured in this video via these Amazon affiliate links:* 10mm 6V motor: amzn.to/2HtkpYa* 8-tooth, 2mm ID/5mm OD gears: amzn.to/2HtWI1C* 2.5mm OD brass tube here: tinyurl.com/2-5mm-brass-tube* Surface mount (SMD) rectifier diodes: amzn.to/2JnqkDE* Through-hole rectifier diodes: amzn.to/2sQweSH---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com---Please note: I’ve drawn upon ideas and suggestions from a range of channels and people, as well as implementing my own. If you choose to follow any of the steps outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage to yourself, your models or your equipment is your own responsibility.
#24 Whats on the Workbench? (June 2018) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-06-06 | In this new feature, we take a look at what's on the workbench at Strathpeffer Junction in June 2018. There's quite a few projects in the pipeline, from painting to DCC chip fitting, Lima motor replacement to points automation!---You can buy some of the components mentioned in this video here:Gaugemaster DCC22 8-pin chip: amzn.to/2M0FX1JHigh Torque Cylinder Electric Mini DC Motor: amzn.to/2HndNdN5mm OD, 8 Tooth, 2mm ID Diameter Plastic Gear: amzn.to/2M31SFh---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#23 DIY Flashing BR/Modern Era Red Tail Lamps (EOT) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-06-02 | I've always thought that flashing End of Train (EOT) tail lamps are a great detail to add to a train to give it some added realism as it trundles around the track.Whilst there are a few manufacturers who sell small tower LEDs painted white for a fair enough price, I just don't think they're all that convincing. DCC Concepts sell modern image tail lamps which are a better representation of the real thing (although perhaps a wee bit oversized for the 80s/90s era), but they're expensive for what they are, at approx. £8.50 each. They come with some extra accessories, but I still don't think they're worth it.I came across Springside Models' modern image lamps a while back and thought they looked great. Well proportioned and detailed, and calling out for customisation with a tiny surface mount LED.In this video, I walk through each step, from drilling out the lens aperture to installing the LEDs. Following some quick abacus work, I reckon you could make each flashing lamp for about £1.80 at 2018 prices...quite a saving!---Specific items required for this project are:- Springside Models Modern Image Tail Lamps (DA99)- Pre-wired 0402 SMD Nano LED (12V to 16V DC - flashing)- 0.9mm & 1.25mm drill bits- Pin vice or miniature hand drill- Medium superglue & accelerator- Patience and nimble fingersVarious other tools and materials will be required, including: - Scotch tape- Exacto knife/craft knife etc.- Pliers- Bluetac- Black and white acrylic paint- Fine paint brush---You can buy the flashing nano LEDs via eBay (price has risen since I bought them - less for more!) here: tinyurl.com/straths-flashing-LEDSOr you can buy them without the flasher unit here: tinyurl.com/straths-nano-red-leds---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#22 Heljan Class 05 Shunter: Overview and DCC Decoder Installation Strathpeffer Junction 2018-05-31 | I've got a real soft spot for shunters. Despite it being a few years old now, Heljan's Class 05 is a stunning model and I thought it was an ideal candidate for a quick review whilst I was installing a decoder.I have seen one or two examples of DCC Sound installs (LokSound 4 Micro and a sugar cube speaker), but I opted just for a simple Hatton's 6-pin DCC chip...even then, it was a very tight fit!---This is a 3-in-1 video: a quick historical overview, a look at the model and dcc chip installation. You can jump to different sections as follows:00:40 – A brief history of the Class 05 shunter04:20 – Taking a look at Heljan's Class 05 10:48 – Body removal15:40 – Chip installation28:38 – Quick run on the rolling road---Specific items required for this project are:- 6-pin DCC decoder- Nimble fingersVarious other tools and materials are required, including: - Jeweller's screwdrivers- Kapton tapeWhilst I used a Hatton's chip in the video and it works fine, it required a bit of filing. A better fit would be Guagemaster's DCC23 6-pin decoder: amzn.to/2kDcK0k---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#21 Hornby Class 20: Look-over, plus TTS Sound Bass Reflex Speaker & Custom Cab Wall Installation Strathpeffer Junction 2018-05-27 | In this video, I take a look at Hornby's Class 20 locomotive in Technical Services livery, install a TTS decoder with bass reflex speaker, and fit a custom-made wall between the cab and the engine compartment.Hornby's Class 20 is mainly based on Lima's older model. It's got a decent can motor driving the front bogie (and no traction tyres - hooray!) and is a decent weight, but detailing is limited and there are no functional light.There's a reasonable amount of room for fitting a DCC chip and speaker (unlike Bachmann's offering), and when paired with a speaker upgrade with better bass response, the TTS chip performs really rather well.---This is a 3-in-1 video: quick review, sound installation and custom cab wall. You can jump to different sections as follows:00:14 – Taking a look at Hornby’s Class 20 locomotive09:11 – Body removal and first look inside15:00 – TTS chip & bass reflex speaker installation29:12 – Cab wall installation---Specific items required for this project are:- Hornby TTS Class 20 Sound decoder- 8ohm Bass Reflex Speaker- 3D printed cab wall or plasticardYou can buy the bass reflex speaker here: http://s.aliexpress.com/JrAJBBfaVarious other tools and materials are required, including: - Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux- jeweller's screwdrivers- black tack - heat shrink - wire strippers- expo modelling saw- exacto knife- sandpaper- needle files, and- superglue---Download the cab wall 3D model STL file for free here: skfb.ly/6z8vxIf you don't have a 3D printer, you can buy a 3D printed version of the cab wall here: http://shpws.me/Qjr6---Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#20 Layout Update: Timber Framework & Next Steps Strathpeffer Junction 2018-05-21 | It's been a while since I posted a video on the layout, but that's not stopped my mind thinking about it. After a period of sunny spring weather, progress finally got underway on the framework. In this video, I take a look at what's been built so far, the techniques and approaches used and musings over the next steps. There's a lot of thinking out loud!In an earlier video, I suggested a two level layout with fiddle yard below, but given the space constraints, I'd appreciate others' thoughts and suggestions: two levels as planned; asymmetrically split levels; all one level??Let me know what you think!If you're interested in using pocket-hole joinery on your layout, you can get yourself a Kreg jig and drill bit set here: amzn.to/2IBAJazThe Kreg clamps are great for lining up timbers in normal joinery too, and you can get them here: amzn.to/2GyfsfX and amzn.to/2k9G3axThank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Find out more about Strathpeffer Junction at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#19 500 Subs Competition Results (16 May 2018) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-05-16 | In April 2018, the Strathpeffer Junction channel reached the awesomely dizzy heights of 500 subscribers. As a thank you to all of my subscribers and supporters, I ran a wee competition. We had 60 entrants. The results are now in. They've been checked and verified. Check out the video to find out who the lucky winners are...Please could each winner contact me at the email address below on or before 30 May 2018 to claim their prize. Please provide a full name and postal address. Emails to: info@strathpefferjunction.comIf you don't claim your prize by this date, it'll be redrawn and allocated to someone else. Thank you!++ The Prizes ++1. Metcalfe Mainline Station kit (00)2. Rail Rover - Scotland in the 1970s and 1980s book3. ScaleModelScenery.co.uk £10 Gift Voucher4. Strathpeffer Junction mug5. Strathpeffer Junction mug6. Strathpeffer Junction pen7. Strathpeffer Junction pen
#18 Packaging Mod & Cab Spacer for Hattons Andrew Barclay 0-4-0ST Strathpeffer Junction 2018-05-10 | Hatton's have just released a wonderful little Andrew Barclay 0-4-0 ST model. It's a lovely addition to my fleet, but it's not been without its teething problems.Alongside issues covered in a previous video on this channel relating to body removal and DCC fitting, I became aware of problem whereby the packaging was bending in the rear cab supports.In this video, I cover a quick fix to prevent the damage from occurring/reoccuring and the installation of a simple spacer to push the support back into shape and hold it there whilst in storage.Things you'll need for this project are:- An exacto/craft knife with a sharp blade- A 3D printer OR plasticard and solvent cement- Kapton tape, insulation tape or something similar- BluetacIf you've got access to a 3D printer, you can download my free STL file for the spacer here: skfb.ly/6yPUWThank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Find out more about Strathpeffer Junction at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#17 COMPETITION TIME: 500 Subscribers Giveaway! Strathpeffer Junction 2018-04-29 | In April 2018, the Strathpeffer Junction channel reached the awesomely dizzy heights of 500 subscribers...and, today, we've just passed 700!It's been amazing to get such fabulous support from so many people out there in the YouTube community, and I've really enjoyed chatting and interacting with you all in the comments section, messages and on social media.As a thank you to everyone for their support over the past few months, I thought I'd run a little competition to pass on my appreciation and give a little back.I don't want to cut my non-UK supporters out of the competition, but it does cost a lot of money to ship prizes across borders. So, I'll pay to ship one prize outwith the UK, but any further prizes paired with non-UK addresses will be re-drawn. Hope that's ok.++ The Prizes ++1. Metcalfe Mainline Station kit (00)2. Rail Rover - Scotland in the 1970s and 1980s book3. ScaleModelScenery.co.uk £10 Gift Voucher4. Strathpeffer Junction mug5. Strathpeffer Junction mug6. Strathpeffer Junction pen7. Strathpeffer Junction penAll prizes also come with a Strathpeffer Junction fridge magnet.++ How to Enter ++On or before 14 May 2018, please:1. Comment below to tell us what type of diesel locomotive is featured on the mug (pre- and/or post- TOPS is ok),2. If you have a Facebook account, subscribe to our YouTube channel, and3. Like our Facebook page at: http://www.facebook.com/StrathpefferJunctionPlease also state your country of residence in your comment. Winners will be selected at random and announced on this channel around the 21 May 2018.++ The Rules ++1. Anyone can enter, but only one entry/prize per person.2. Entrants must complete all 3 entry steps outlined above on or before the specified date.3. Winners will be selected at random.4. Only one prize will be given to entrants located outwith the UK. If further non-UK winners are selected for a prize, the draw for that prize will be re-drawn.5. Non-UK prize winners must pay any import duties or tax liabilities themselves.6. The gift voucher is only available to UK residents. If it is drawn against a non-UK entry, a different prize will be selected.7. If a prize is damaged in transit, it will not be repaired or replaced. 8. No guarantees or warranties whatsoever are given for any of the prizes.9. Winners must email info@strathpefferjunction.com with their shipping address within 7 days of the prize winner announcement, otherwise a re-draw will take place and the prize allocated to someone else.
Great Britain Steam Train Tour XI - LNER Class B1 - Strath Peffer to Raven Rock (April 2018) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-04-28 | Something little different from Strathpeffer Junction: footage from above of the Great Britain XI train tour en route to Kyle of Lochalsh, hauled by former LNER Thompson Class B1 (6)1264. It was an overcast day and fairly dark early on, but there was very little wind and the sound of the train could be heard for miles, thundering all across the strath...it was quite something!The film won't win any awards (for cinematography or acting!), but we hope that you'll nonetheless enjoy watching this wonderful old Class B1 steam loco climb the significant 1 in 50 gradient up to Raven Rock.It's amazing to think that steam trains used to pause at the former Achterneed Station halfway up, no doubt having to build up quite a head of steam to get going again. Sadly, other than the level crossing and cottage, very little remains of the station today.For more content from Strathpeffer Junction, visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.comMusic: Tom Kent - Celtic Theme - www.tomkentmusic.co.ukDisclaimer: In the the UK, it is illegal to fly a drone on, over or within 50 metres of a railway. At no point in filming this video did the drones breach those thresholds. Line of sight was also maintained at all times and the UK Drone Code adhered to. If you are using a drone to film trains, make sure that you comply with all applicable regulations and guidelines, and keep a safe distance.
#16 Hattons Andrew Barclay 0-4-0 ST Locomotive - Overview & DCC Decoder Fitting Strathpeffer Junction 2018-04-19 | Hatton's have just released a wonderful little Andrew Barclay 0-4-0 ST model. It has been long anticipated, and I received my one (in fabulous Caledonian Railway livery) this weekend. Whilst not without its teething problems, it's going to be a lovely addition to my fleet.Jump to...00:00 - Introduction, overview and short review06:04 - Brief history of the Andrew Barclay, his company & the loco07:14 - DC/analogue test track09:10 - Body removal14:06 - Decoder installation19:58 - Body replacement21:00 - DCC/digital test trackAndrew Barclay Sons & Co. were a locomotive building company based in Kilmarnock, Scotland. They became known for producing their standardised saddle tank locomotives, mainly for industrial use. They had a small selection of options available to prospective buyers such as alternative cabs, cylinders, chimneys and tanks.This video provides a short overview and review of the model itself, briefly touches on the history of the man, the company and the loco, and then turns to body removal and DCC decoder installation.You can buy the Gaugemaster DCC23 decoder to fit this locomotive here: amzn.to/2F06mYEThank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Find out more about Strathpeffer Junction at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#15 Lima Class 47 Loco Upgrade: Wiring up Directional Lights (Part 2b) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-04-11 | This is the third video in a mini-series looking at upgrades to an old Lima ringfield/pancake motor-driven Class 47 locomotive. This one is mainly about wiring up lighting to the decoder.Due to the length of time that it takes to carry out all of the lighting modifications, the project has been split into two separate videos. In this second one, we complete the installation of the directional lighting, hook it all up to the DCC decoder and give it test run.EDIT: Normally, I would solder the miniature lighting socket to the decoder and the plug to the body; this prevents the decoder shorting if the plug becomes detached. I meant to say in the video that I did it in reverse only due to it being a recycled socket.The wiring diagram referred to in the video can be downloaded here: www.strathpefferjunction.com/dcc-decoder-wiring-diagrams-for-non-dcc-ready-locomotivesNB. This is a step-by-step video produced in response to subscriber requests. If you're not up for a long video looking at each part in detail, this isn't the video for you!Items required for the modification work and installation are:- Miniature pre-wired surface-mount LEDs (4 x warm white, 2 x cold white & 4 x red)- Resistors (2.5K ohm & 10K ohm)- 1mm dia. fibre optic- Miniature 3-in plug & socket- Paint stripper- Cyanoacrylate glue (Superglue)- Glue 'n Glaze glue- BlackTak - Kapton tape- Heat shrink - Hot air gun or cigarette lighter - Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux - Pin vice and drill bits- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters, wire strippers, modelling saw, an exacto knife and a cutting mat.Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Find out more about Strathpeffer Junction at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#14 Lima Class 47 Loco Upgrade: Installing Directional Lights (Part 2a) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-04-11 | This is the second video in a mini-series looking at upgrades to an old Lima ringfield/pancake motor-driven Class 47 locomotive, enabling it to be used on a DCC layout alongside more modern models.Due to the length of time that it takes to carry out all of the modifications, the lighting segment of the project has been split into two separate videos, Part 2a and Part 2b. In this part, we begin to look at installing directional lighting. The video covers the removal of the dummy forward lights, drilling holes for new rear lights, preparing new working headlights and headcode maps using miniature LEDs.NB. This is a step-by-step video produced in response to subscriber requests. If you're not up for a long video looking at each part in detail, this isn't the video for you!The wiring diagram referred to in the video can be downloaded here: www.strathpefferjunction.com/dcc-decoder-wiring-diagrams-for-non-dcc-ready-locomotivesItems required for the modification work and installation are:- Miniature pre-wired surface-mount LEDs (4 x warm white, 2 x cold white & 4 x red)- Resistors (2.5K ohm & 10K ohm)- 1mm dia. fibre optic- Paint stripper- Cyanoacrylate glue (Superglue)- Glue 'n Glaze glue- BlackTak - Kapton tape- Heat shrink - Hot air gun or cigarette lighter - Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux - Pin vice and drill bits- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters, wire strippers, modelling saw, an exacto knife and a cutting mat.In Part 2b, we'll finish preparing the rear lights and then move onto wiring everything up and getting it all functional...Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Find out more about Strathpeffer Junction at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#13 Replacing Missing Windows in an HST Power Car with South Eastern Finecast Glazing Strathpeffer Junction 2018-03-28 | I bought a secondhand Hornby HST power car set (latest tooling). It was in good condition, but sold as having two missing windows. After being unable to track down replacements direct from Hornby or their spares agents, I looked for other options.I could have tried designing windows using Silhouette Studio and my Cameo cutter, but I didn't have any clear plasticard in stock and it would have been fiddly getting glazing to get just right alongside the factory fitted units. So, I thought I'd give South Eastern Finecast's glazing for the original Hornby HST models a go (product code: SE16).To my surprise, the glazing for the missing guard's compartment window was a decent fit, albeit it required a little shimming. The glazing unit for the missing sliding door wasn't such a perfect fit, but would nonetheless be a reasonable alternative to no window!Items required for the repair work and installation are:- South Eastern Finecast SE16 Flush Glazing Kit for Hornby HST - Deluxe Material Glue 'n Glaze- Silver paint pen (fine nib)- Masking tape- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, cocktail sticks, an exacto knife and cutting mat.Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: www.strathpefferjunction.com
#12 Lima Class 47 Loco Upgrade: Wiring a DCC Decoder to a Ringfield Motor (Part 1) Strathpeffer Junction 2018-03-25 | This is Part 1 of a mini-series looking at upgrades to an old Lima ringfield/pancake motor-driven Class 47 locomotive. The general principles will apply to most ringfield/pancake style models.In this video, we look at converting the analogue DC ringfield motor to DCC use, through the installation of a Hornby TTS decoder. The process is, however, exactly the same for non-sound decoders.It's vital that the decoder selected can handle current draw of the motor. There are various descriptions of how to work out the stall current online. Older ringfield motors, especially those not running well, may exceed the current rating of some decoders, including TTS sound chips. Please do take time to suss out the suitability of a chip before commencing installation. The wiring diagram referred to in the video can be downloaded here: www.strathpefferjunction.com/dcc-decoder-wiring-diagrams-for-non-dcc-ready-locomotivesThe Brian Lambert ringfield motor article referred to in the video can be found towards the bottom of the page here: www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.htmlItems required for the modification work and installation are:- 8-pin or 'wires only' DCC decoder- BlackTak - Kapton tape- Heat shrink - Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux - Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters, wire strippers, an exacto knife and a cutting mat.In Part 2, we'll look at installing directional lighting...Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Find out more about Strathpeffer Junction at: www.strathpefferjunction.com
#11 Modifying an 8-Pin DCC Deocder with a TCS 21-Pin Breakout Adaptor Strathpeffer Junction 2018-03-11 | A short tutorial on converting an 8-pin decoder for permanent use with a 21-pin locomotive. A Hornby TTS sound decoder is shown, but it would work with most non-sound decoders as well.This is an alternative approach to the one outlined in an earlier video, which used a modified 8-pin adaptor. This version uses a TCS 21-pin breakout board, which makes the whole process simpler as there's no need to modify the adaptor.You can find a wiring diagram/schematic for the TCS breakout board here: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com/tcs-21-pin-dcc-breakout-adaptorYou can buy them here (affiliate): ebay.to/3aDLxChItems required for this project are:- 8-pin DDC decoder- TCS 21-pin breakout board- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux (optional)- Various tools, including: small side cutters, wire stripper and an exacto knife.Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!
#10 Adding a motor to Oxford Rail road/rail Landrover Defender Strathpeffer Junction 2018-02-10 | Oxford Rail Road/Rail Landrover Defender.An overview of the customisation of an Oxford Rail Road/Rail Landrover Defender to enable it to run under its own steam on OO/HO gauge layouts.The first half of the video looks at my initial thoughts about to potentially approach the project, while the second part looks at the finished project and each individual component. While this video looks at most of the steps required to convert the diecast model into dc use, it's quite a complicated project in design terms and it's not possible to show everything in detail. The key considerations and steps are touched upon, with a short introduction to designing the various components in Sketchup. This should enable the confident modeller (with plenty of patience!) to undertake a similar conversion themselves.Items required for the project are:- Oxford Rail road/rail Landrover- Bachmann Trackster (Jeepster or other short wheelbase versions only)- 3D Printer- PLA+ or ABS filament (PLA will work as well, it just has a slightly lower softening temperature)- Deluxe Material Liquid Gravity- Rocket Card Glue- Cyanoacrylate glue (superglue)- 2mm drill bit & drill- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters, exacto knife and modelling saw.You can buy a non-motorised Oxford Rail road/rail landrover for undertaking this project here: amzn.to/2HJIyv7Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#9 Hornby Class 50 - Replacing Light Board and Installing LokSound V4 Decoder & Speakers Strathpeffer Junction 2018-01-23 | Hornby Class 50 (Super Detail) diesel locomotive.A how-to video looking at the replacement of a defective light board, fan assembly removal to improve running/motor performance, and the installation of a LokSound V4 decoder and two speakers (in parallel).Update: I've been using this loco more recently and I'm really pretty happy with the sound project (by Jamie Goodman). I wasn't sure at the time of recording this video, but I would now recommend it as a decent alternative to the likes of Legomanbiffo. Items required for the repair, modification work and installation are:- Hornby Class 50 :)- Replacement light board (Hornby code: X9252)- LokSound V4 decoder- Replacement 8 ohm speakers (bass reflex and bass enhanced)- BlackTak - Kapton tape- Heat shrink- Plasticard/sheet styrene- Superglue (medium) & activator- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux (optional)- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters and an exacto knife, needle files and a dremel (with metal cutting disc). Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: www.strathpefferjunction.com
#8 Adding a Speaker Switch & 3D-printed mount to an old ESU DCC Decoder Tester Strathpeffer Junction 2018-01-20 | A quick overview of modifications that I made to an old-style ESU decoder tester to enable the speaker to be switched on or off. The mod enables the older testers to be used easily with a wider range of sound decoders and negates the need to buy an expensive newer model.I used Sketchup to design the part and Simply3D to slice it, before printing it on a Flashforge Creator Pro 3D printer. You can download the free STL file for this modification here: skfb.ly/6vRTHItems required for this project are:- Old-style ESU decoder tester- Access to a 3D printer- A miniature 2-way PCN mount sliding switch- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux (optional)- Various tools, including: thin dcc decoder wire, jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters and an exacto knife.Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!
#7 Adapting an 8-Pin Hornby TTS Sound decoder for use with a 21-Pin Chassis Strathpeffer Junction 2018-01-10 | A short tutorial on converting an 8-pin Hornby TTS Sound decoder for use with a Bachmann 21-pin locomotive, such as their Class 37 or Class 47.While the majority of Heljan locomotives also come with a 21-pin DCC socket, it is recommended that you do not use a TTS decoder with their products given their higher current draw.In the video, the 8-pin adaptors shown are made by LaisDCC and DCC Concepts. It is understood that Bachmann also make an adaptor. There may be others too.Manufacturers have also produced different versions of the adaptor over the years, some of which come with AUX solder pads while others do not, so the manufacturer is not necessarily a guarantee of a particular design.You can find the schematic in image form here: www.facebook.com/StrathpefferJunction/photos/a.2156466537917020.1073741829.2149839818579692/2162071747356499UPDATE: It is now possible to buy 21-Pin break out boards which, if used in place of the 8pin to 12pin adaptor, would negate the plug removal step, however they are currently more expensive per unit and often only come in packs of 5, so the method shown in the video is still the cheapest option. Items required for this project are:- Hornby TTS Sound decoder- 8-pin to 21-pin adaptor- Expo modelling saw- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux (optional)- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters and an exacto knife and needle files.You can buy a 5-pack of the 8-pin/21-pin adaptors here: amzn.to/2HzZ6Ik ...or buy a single 8-pin/21-pin adaptor here: amzn.to/2HF7HtcThank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!Visit us at: http://www.strathpefferjunction.com
#6 Custom-built ScotRail Driving Brake Standard Open (DBSO) Coach - An Overview Strathpeffer Junction 2018-01-07 | I was asked about the custom-built ScotRail DBSO that I mentioned in another video, so I thought I'd produce a little video to give it an airing and talk a little bit about how I went about making it.The unit is based on Hornby's Mk3e BSO coach. It's not a 'how-to' video per se, but I do cover many of the key elements of the build and explain the approach that I took to its construction, wiring and digital control. Towards the end of the video, the DBSO is paired up with a Bachmann Class 47 in ScotRail livery featuring TTS sound (the Hornby chip having been modified for use with a 21-pin DCC ready locomotive).Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!
#5 Hornby Class 31 - Fan Removal & Installing a TTS Sound Decoder Strathpeffer Junction 2018-01-07 | Hornby Class 31 (Super Detail) diesel locomotive.A short how-to video looking at ways to improve running and motor performance through the removal of the problematic fan assembly, as well as the installation of a Hornby TTS Sound (Class 31) decoder and speaker to provide for cost-effective DCC sound functionality.Items required for the modification work and installation are:- Hornby TTS Sound decoder- Replacement 8 ohm speaker (optional)- BlackTak - Kapton tape- Heat shrink (optional)- Plasticard/sheet styrene- Superglue (medium) & activator- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux (optional)- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters and an exacto knife, needle files and a dremel (with metal cutting disc). You can buy a TTS Class 31 decoder here: amzn.to/2EZLktoThank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!
#4 Part 2 - Installing LokSound Micro V4 & PowerPack Mini in Bachmanns Class 08 Shunter Strathpeffer Junction 2018-01-01 | Part 2 of a detailed tutorial series on installing DCC sound and stay alive capacity in a Bachmann Class 08 shunter. This time we're focusing on wiring things up and getting it running.Taking you through each stage of the project step-by-step, from opening the body to a first run on the test track with sound, the video covers all that's required to squeeze lots of functionality into such a small space.Key items required for the installation are:- ESU LokSound Micro V4- 1 x ESU PowerPack Mini- Limo 6 mini sugar cube speaker (8 ohm, 1w)- Pre-wired Micro SMD LED 0402 (Warm White) - BlackTak - Kapton tape- Heat shrink - Superglue (medium) & activator- Deluxe Materials Glue 'n Glaze- Black acrylic paint - Black permanent marker pen- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters and an exacto knife, needle files and a dremel (with metal cutting disc). Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!
#3 Part 1 - Installing LokSound Micro V4 & PowerPack Mini in Bachmanns Class 08 Shunter Strathpeffer Junction 2018-01-01 | Part 1 of a detailed tutorial series on installing DCC sound and stay alive capacity in a Bachmann Class 08 shunter. Taking you through each stage of the project step-by-step, from opening the body to a first run on the test track with sound, the video covers all that's required to squeeze lots of functionality into such a small space.Key items required for the installation are:- ESU LokSound Micro V4- 1 x ESU PowerPack Mini- Limo 6 mini sugar cube speaker (8 ohm, 1w)- Pre-wired Micro SMD LED 0402 (Warm White) - BlackTak - Kapton tape- Heat shrink - Superglue (medium) & activator- Deluxe Materials Glue 'n Glaze- Black acrylic paint - Black permanent marker pen- Soldering iron, solder & liquid flux- Various tools, including: jeweller's screwdrivers, small side cutters and an exacto knife, needle files and a dremel (with metal cutting disc). Thank you very much for watching. Please comment, like, share and subscribe!
#2 Layout Update: Initial Thoughts for Maximising the Baseboard Area Strathpeffer Junction 2017-12-20 | A short video taking a slightly closer look at the space available in the loft for the layout, as well as a few initial ideas for baseboard framing and construction. I used SketchUp to create a scale model of the loft, so make dry runs possible and hopefully fend off any obvious problems at the pass! It' takes a while to draft it all, but once it's done the beauty is that you can try out all sorts of permutations without cutting a single piece of timber.Anyhow, I'm really keen to get folks' thoughts on whether or not this is a good approach. Are there any glaring issues? Has anyone constructed a 'sitting down' loft layout before? I'm a bit concerned there won't be enough room to get into the fiddle yard area, but not sure what alternative options there are, so any thoughts would be most welcome.Many thanks and have a fabulous festive period when it comes! :)
