HB woodturning
Chestnut Collaboration NL 2022 (backup video)
updated
I finished the bowl by sanding it to 400 grit after applying the sealer. Then I polished it with Yorkshire grit and finally applied a layer of friction polish, which I then polished.
The bowl has a diameter of 22 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high.
this is probably the hardest piece of wood I have ever worked on my lathe.
the bowl is 15 centimeters in diameter and 6 centimeters high
I finished the bowl with friction polish .
The bowl measures 17.5 centimeters square and is 6 centimeters high.
the bowl has a diameter of 14 centimeters and is 5 centimeters high
Recently I turned and finished the bowl for the second time.
I finished the bowl with two coats of sealer and light sanding in between, then polished it with Yorkshire grit and then friction polish.
The bowl is 35 centimeters in diameter and 10 centimeters high.
The large and thick pieces of wood I cored with my oneway coring system the others I roughly turned into a bowl shape.
I treated them all with two coats of wood glue to let them dry slowly and evenly to reduce the chance of cracking .
In this video I am only showing how I cut and turn the piece of wood for 1 bowl, but I have made many more bowls than I am showing here.
The bowls are dry by now, and most are still in storage at the moment.
The bowl has a diameter of 13 centimeters and is 6 centimeters high.
The bowl I finished with two coats of sealer and light sanding in between and then another coat of friction polish, which I buffed up.
First I glued two strips of linden to each piece of purpleheart, and after the glue hardened I cut wedges from them with the miter saw.
I glued the wedges together with linden spacers to the rings.
I glued a tenon on the oak for the bottom with hot-melt glue and attached it to a chuck on the lathe.
Then I glued the various layers of the bowl together.
I used a steady rest for hollowing out the bowl to keep it stable.
The hollowing out was a slow and time-consuming process that went smoothly.
After that I sanded the bowl and treated it with three coats of sealer with light sanding in between and finally sanded it down to 600 grit and finished it with friction polish.
The bowl is 21 centimeters in diameter and 14 centimeters high.
There is a side branch in the piece of wood, which makes it very difficult to turn the wood properly due to the varying wood grain.
But by removing a little and sanding a lot each time, I managed to finish this bowl well.
I finished the bowl with two layers of sealer and light sanding in between and finally a layer of friction polish that I polished up.
The bowl has a diameter of 19 centimeters and is 10 centimeters high.
The bowl has a diameter of 15 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high.
I finished the wood with two coats of sealer, lightly sanding in between, and then sanded it to 600 grit. Then I applied a layer of friction polish and buffed it.
The bowl with a lid has a diameter of 15 centimeters and is 7.5 centimeters high.
first i made a hollow form and provided the bottom with two layers of dye and finished it with wax.
Then I treated the top and inside with two layers of sealer, and when it had hardened, I masked a part of the bowl and applied matte black paint here.
I applied the Jo Sonja Iridescent paint on the black paint and added structure with a sponge.
The bowl has a diameter of 24 centimeters and is 7 centimeters high.
I roughly turned the wood into the shape of the mold and applied a few coats of sealer.
then I placed the wood in the mold and poured the epoxy resin.
After the epoxy resin had hardened, I made a bowl out of it.
I treated the bowl with two layers of sealer, polished it with Yorkshire Grit microfine, and finished with friction polish.
the bowl has a diameter of 18 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high.
First I filled the cracks in the wood with epoxy resin, and after this had hardened, I attached the wood to the lathe using a faceplate.
After I had turned and sanded the outside and provided it with a layer of sealer, I filled the bark inclusion and quite a few small cracks with CA glue.
When all the glue had hardened, I removed the excess glue and treated the wood with two layers of sealer.
Then I glued a piece of plywood to the bottom with hot melt glue, and after the glue had hardened, I made a tenon out of it.
Then I mounted the bowl reversed with the plywood tenon in the chuck, and in this way I hollowed out the bowl and sanded and finished it.
I treated the inside in the same way as the outside, and when the second layer of sealer had hardened, I finished the bowl with friction polish.
After buffing the bowl, I removed it from the chuck and removed the glued-on tenon with denatured alcohol, and then laser engraved my logo in the bottom and finished it.
the bowl is 30 centimeters in diameter and 12 centimeters high.
First I glued the waste piece of wenge onto the meranti so that once the glue had dried, I could saw it to size safely.
After I had cut the piece of padouk diagonally, I glued all the pieces of wood together.
When the glue had hardened, I mounted the wood on the lathe using a faceplate and turned the bottom in this way.
After machine sanding, I sanded it again by hand, making sure that I only sanded the oak, meranti and wenge first and then the padouk to avoid the padouk dust discoloring the other wood.
And also to prevent discoloration, I first applied the sealer to the oak, meranti and wenge and then to the padouk. When the second layer of sealer had hardened, I glued a piece of plywood to the bottom with hot melt glue and made a tenon from it.
Then I reverse mounted the bowl with the plywood tenon in the chuck and formed the top of the bowl.
Then I removed the bowl with the chuck from the lathe and cut the sides of the square top to size and then mounted the bowl back on the lathe.
Once the bowl was back on the lathe, I hollowed out and finished the bowl.
To finish the rest of the bowl, I sanded in parts again and applied sealer.
Finally, I finished the bowl with friction polish.
The bowl is 19 centimeters square and is 5 centimeters high.
I first mounted the wood in the chuck and turned the bottom in this way and treated it with two layers of sealer.
Furthermore, I then glued a plywood tenon onto the bottom of the bowl and used it to hollow out and finish the bowl.
Likewise, I finished the bowl with two layers of sealer, which I sanded to 600 grit and polished with friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 10 centimeters and is 6 centimeters high.
I provided the bowl with a layer of dye so that the more porous parts absorbed more color than the rest of the wood.
It seems like I sanded away almost all the dye, but when I apply the sealer, the color comes out more.
I finished the bowl with friction polish.
I finished the bowl with friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 20 centimeters and is 7 centimeters high.
I finished the bowl with two coats of sealer with light sanding in between and then applied a coat of friction polish and buffed it.
The bowl has a diameter of 15 centimeters and is 6 centimeters high.
The platter is finished with two coats of sealer and light sanding in between, and then sanded to 600 grit and finished with friction polish.
The top of the platter is 35 centimeters by 40 centimeters and has a total height of 5 centimeters.
I finished the bowl with two coats of sealer and then sanded to 600 grit and finished with friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 18 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high.
I made a bowl from a piece of wood that I prepared earlier and put aside to dry.
Not only that, but I finished the bowl with two layers of sealer and lightly sanded in between and then sanded to 400 grit polished with yorkshire grit and used friction polish as a final touch.
The bowl has a diameter of 21 centimeters and is 9 centimeters high.
I turned 4 egg cups, 2 of oak and 2 of ash.
The oak ones I finished with two layers of sealer and lightly sanded in between and then with microcrystalline wax and polished that.
In the case of ash, I removed the soft part of the surface with a steel brush and treated it with matte black paint. After this had dried, I applied gold-colored gilt cream, polished off the excess gilt cream and finally finished it with microcrystalline wax.
The egg cups have a diameter of 10 centimeters and are about 3 centimeters high.
First I sanded the outside and treated it with sealer because the wood was very porous and absorbed a lot of the sealer.
After the sealer had hardened, I sanded the wood lightly and applied another coat of sealer.
I applied a total of five layers of sealer and a few more on the end grain.
After laser engraving my logo on the bottom, I attached a faceplate to the top of the bowl and mounted it on the lathe.
Then I attached a piece of plywood to the bottom with hot melt glue, and when it had hardened, I turned it into a tenon.
I then mounted the bowl with the plywood tenon in the chuck and removed the faceplate.
Now that the bowl was mounted in the chuck, I could form the top and hollow out the bowl.
Hollowing out was easy because the wood fibers were very loose, but I therefore had to sand a lot to make the bowl nice because of the loose wood fibers.
I also had to treat the top and the inside with many layers of sealer to give it a nice finish.
For the finish, I sanded to 600 grit and applied friction polish and buffed to a nice shine.
When the top was finished, I removed it from the chuck, softened the hot melt glue with denatured alcohol, removed the plywood tenon and finally finished the bottom with friction polish.
The bowl is 15 centimeters square and is 9 centimeters high.
About three years ago, I roughly turned a piece of larch into a bowl, treated it with two layers of wood glue, and put it away in storage.
I didn't leave this bowl for so long because it still needed to dry, but because I didn't get around to it.
I finished the bowl with two coats of sealer with light sanding in between and then sanded to 600 grit and finished with friction polishing.
The bowl has a diameter of 21 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high.
I finished the bowl with two coats of sealer with light sanding in between, then polished it with yorkshire grit and then finished with a friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 14 centimeters and is 5 centimeters high.
The boxes are made from 1 piece purpleheart and 1 piece spalted birch.
I finished the wood with 3 layers of sealer and sanded lightly in between, and then a layer of friction polish.
The large box has a diameter of 17 centimeters and, including the lid, is 5 centimeters high, the small one has a diameter of 12 centimeters and is also 5 centimeters high.
I sawed a bowl blank from a piece of birchwood that had been outside for a long time and put it away to dry.
After it had been drying in storage for a number of years, I mounted the wood on the lathe and made a bowl from it.
I finished the bowl with two coats of sealer with light sanding in between, then polished with Yorkshire grit and finally a layer of friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 15 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high
When I started turning it I thought it was birch because of the discolorations in it, but the wood was too hard for that so it could also be birch, but when I applied the first layer of sealer it looked like the color of cherry wood, so I'm not sure what it is.
I finished the bowl with two layers of sealer, and after it had hardened, sanded it to 400 grit, polished it with Yorkshire grit and then applied a top layer of friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 17 centimeters and is 6 centimeters high
I finished the bowl with two layers of sealer and sanded it to 600 grit and finished with friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 14 centimeters and is 6 centimeters high
Recently I filled the voids with cherry red epoxy resin on a set of bowls I made from a cross piece and turned them for the second time.
I treated the bowls with two layers of sealer and sanded them lightly in between and finished with friction polish.
The small bowl is 20 centimeters in diameter and 7 centimeters high, the large bowl is 24 centimeters in diameter and 9 centimeters high
I finished the bowl with two coats of sealer and light sanding in between, sanded to 400 grit and then polished with Yorkshire grit and finally friction polished.
The bowl has a diameter of 30 centimeters and 11 centimeters high
There was a crack and a void in the wood where a side branch had rotted away.
I filled the void with a piece of a branch and epoxy resin and the crack with epoxy resin, I closed small cracks with ca glue.
I attached the wood to the lathe with a woodworm screw and turned it in this way.
Furthermore, I attached the bowl to the chuck with a glued piece of plywood to hollow it out.
I finished the bowl with two layers of sealer and light sanding in between, then sanded to 400 grit and finished with yorkshire grit and finally friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 24 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high
I finished the bowl with friction polish.
The bowl measures 13 centimeters square and is 5 centimeters high
There were a few dry cracks in the wood and I filled them with black filler and ca glue.
I finished the bowl with Yorkshire grit and friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 23 centimeters and is 12 centimeters high
When i had the leftover piece, i first roughly turned it into a bowl and treated it with two layers of wood glue and put it aside to dry.
After about eight months of drying, i mounted the bowl back on the lathe and turned it for the second time.
I finished the bowl with two layers of sealer and light sanding in between, and finally sanded to 600 grit and finished with wood wax.
The bowl has a diameter of 22 centimeters and is 10 centimeters high.
I alternated the work of making the different parts, so while the sealer hardened on one part, I continued on the other part.
Furthermore, I have used various methods to mount the wood on the lathe.
It is finished with two layers of sealer and light sanding in between, and finally woodwax.
The hollow form has a diameter of 17 centimeters and is 11 centimeters high, the lid with finial has a diameter of 9 centimeters and is 11 centimeters high.
I had a piece of beech wood that had developed a crack due to drying.
Then I sawed the wood further in the direction of the crack and glued a piece of padauk between it.
Because the wood had a strange shape, clamping it during gluing was a difficult job.
When the glue had hardened, I planed a piece of wood flat and attached it to the faceplate and turned it in this way.
I finished the bowl with Yorkshire grit and then friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 25 centimeters and is 12 centimeters high
Because it was irregular in shape and had some bark inclusions and holes in it, it was not easy to turn.
But by carefully and removing little material, it was possible to turn this bowl.
I finished the bowl with two coats of sealer with light sanding in between and finally sanded to 600 grit and then a layer of woodwax.
Because of the irregular shape it does not really have a diameter, but the largest size is 28 centimeters and the smallest size is 21 centimeters and is 5 centimeters high
I made a number of Christmas trees from pieces of firewood on my lathe.
I have used yew, birch, beech and conifer and I have finished them with sealer and some with Yorkshire grit.
Jingle Bells by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0
Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100187
Artist: http://incompetech.com
First I mounted the wood with a faceplate on the lathe and turned the outside in this way.
During the turning a large chip of wood broke off which I glued back and as a precaution I treated some cracks in the wood with glue, and then I finished the outside.
I then laser engraved my logo on the bottom and then glued a piece of leftover plywood on top with hot melt glue and turned it into a tenon.
I reverse mounted the bowl with the tenon in the chuck and turned the top in this way and hollowed out and finished the bowl.
After I finished the bowl I removed the plywood tenon with denatured alcohol and finished the bottom.
I finished the bowl first with two layers of sealer and sanded in between and finally with friction polish.
The bowl is 26 centimeters square and is 6 centimeters high
I first attached the wood to the lathe with a faceplate and, in this way, turned the outside and applied two layers of sealer and sanded in between.
When the outside was finished, I glued a piece of leftover plywood to the bottom with hot melt glue and made a tenon from it.
I placed the tenon in the chuck and then hollowed out the bowl and finished it with two coats of sealer and sanding in between.
Lastly, I finished the bowl with friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 19 centimeters and is 7 centimeters high
first, I sawed the purple heart into four quarters and glued two thin strips of walnut and maple together.
When the glue had hardened, I cut the walnut and maple slats at an angle of 45 degrees and glued them onto the purple heart pieces.
After the glue had hardened, I shortened a few thicker pieces of maple and glued them together with the other pieces.
When all the glue had hardened, I mounted the wood with a faceplate on the lathe and turned the outside.
On the bottom I glued a piece of leftover plywood and turned a tenon from it.
Then I mounted the bowl reversed with the plywood tenon in the chuck and hollowed out and finished the bowl.
For the finish, I sanded the bowl after the sealer to 600 grit and finished with friction polish.
The bowl is 22 centimeters square and is 5 centimeters high
I finished the hollow shape and the lid with friction polish.
The hollow form has a diameter of 21 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high, the lid has a diameter of 11 centimeters and is 13 centimeters high, including the finial
First I mounted the wood with a faceplate on the lathe and turned the outside like that, then I attached the hollow form with a glue block and hollowed it out like that.
I finished the hollow form first with two layers of sealer and light sanding in between, and then sanded to 600 grit and finished with friction polish.
The hollow form has a diameter of 24 centimeters and is 7 centimeters high.
I previously prepared the wood and set it aside to dry, and now that it is dry, I mounted it on the lathe.
Now and then I stopped turning and filled cracks in the wood with sawdust, Fastick Filler, and ca glue, and in some places reinforced the wood with ca glue.
I finished the bowl with several layers of sealer, sanded in between and finally friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 24 centimeters and is 4 and a half centimeters high.
Almost a year ago, I sawed a piece of chestnut into bowl blanks and cored them with my coring system, and then treated them with wood glue and set them aside to dry.
When the wood was dry, I turned and finished these bowls for the second time.
I finished the bowls with three coats of No Visible Oil, lightly sanded in between, and sanded the last coat smooth with 800 grit.
The largest bowl has a diameter of 39 centimeters and is 13 centimeters high; the middle bowl has a diameter of 33 centimeters and is 10 centimeters high; and the smallest has a diameter of 26 centimeters and is 7 centimeters high
I finished the bowl with friction polish.
The bowl has a diameter of 27 centimeters and is 9 centimeters high.
First, I sawed off the sides at an angle so that I could use the offcuts again for pen blanks, and then I sawed off the corners.
I then attached the wood to the lathe using a faceplate and turned and sanded the outside.
Then I glued a piece of plywood to the bottom, turned it into a tenon and attached that tenon to the chuck and hollowed out the bowl.
I finished the bowl with 3 coats of No Visible Oil and lightly sanded between coats.
The bowl has a diameter of 22 centimeters and is 8 centimeters high
One pen is made of wenge with a hono ballpoint mechanism
and one of snakewood also with a hono ballpoint mechanism and a
Color wood pen blank with a Sierra pen mechanism


